Hi all crucial pz

Hi all
I am having a function module which gives the output as smartform.
I am creating a new function module in which I am calling that already created function module.
Which returns pdf size and pdf lines.Using this values shall I create a new pdf in a GUI screen.
Give me ur suggestion please/.,,,,,,,,,,,
Regards
Karthik
Edited by: karthikeyan palaniayya on Mar 13, 2008 6:13 AM
Edited by: karthikeyan palaniayya on Mar 13, 2008 6:24 AM
Edited by: karthikeyan palaniayya on Mar 13, 2008 6:34 AM

Yes you can create it . You can do it in many ways. You download it to Frintend then use the Function EXECUTE or cl_gui_frontend_services method execute to show it in a GUI.
or else you can display using html container also.

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    Data on a SSD cannot simply be over-written as it is done on a hard drive and this gets a bit more complicated when we erase information and the block that it is located on also contains valid information that we don’t want deleted.  The process then becomes read data, recognize the valid information, move it to another clean block, erase the present block and write.  Manufacturers have tried to combat this issue of performance degradation by creating 3 solutions to the problem which are wear leveling, TRIM and ITGC (or Garbage Collection).
    Wear leveling
    Wear leveling is the process of the ssd understanding how many times each cell of memory has been written to and then ensuring that all are all written to evenly.  After all, the life span of the ssd is dependent on the total number of writes that are written to and this has been coined as ‘write endurance’.  Unlike the hard drive which stores information in a static location, the SSD will move information around on a continuous basis without your knowledge to ensure that all cells wear evenly, thus affording a longer lifespan for the ssd.  By also doing this, the drive can ensure that only the valid information is used, leaving blocks to be cleaned up by TRIM or ITGC, again without the knowledge of the user.
    ITGC/GC  (Idle Time Garbage Collection)
    Garbage Collection (GC) is the process by which the SSD recognizes, in idle time, which cells are valid and which are not valid (or deleted) on the drive.  It then clears the blocks of the invalid data to maintain the speed of writing to ‘clean’ pages or blocks during normal operation.  GC was initially shown to be a last resort if TRIM was not available, however, recent releases are showing new methods to be very aggressive and results equal to that of TRIM are being observed.  This is a huge benefit to those using RAID systems where Garbage Collection is accomplished as TRIM is not an option.
    The SSD Review was able to discuss GC and TRIM with Crucial as it pertains to their SATA3 releases as it has been observed that their RealSSD C300 SATA3 drives do not appear to show any performance degradation over extended use.  Crucial confirmed that they had to consider that TRIM would not pass through the present release of SATA3 drivers which helped recognize that very aggressive GC would be necessary for the C300 SATA 3 SSDs success.  The subsequent result was that many forum threads were created by avid users who were questioning whether TRIM was, in fact, working in their SSDs as no performance degradation was seen even in the toughest of test beds.  To dispel a common belief, it is not the Marvell processor of the Crucial RealSSD that prevents TRIM from being passed, but rather, that of the hardware and drivers of SATA3 capable motherboards.  All Crucial SSDs are fully capable of passing TRIM direction to the OS.
    TRIM
    TRIM occurs when the ssd clears blocks of invalid data.  When you delete a file, the operating system will only mark the area of the file as free in order to trick the system into believing the space is available. Invalid data is still present in that location.  Its like ripping out a Table of Contents from a book.  Without this, one would not know what, if anything, is contained on the following pages.  TRIM follows the process of marking the area as free by clearing the invalid data from the drive.  Without this, the process of reading, identifying invalid data, deleting or moving and clearing the block before writing can actually result in performance 4 times slower than it would have normally been as a new drive.
    In recently speaking with Kent Smith, Sr. Director of Product Marketing  for SandForce, he identified that there are many variables outside of the hardware that are responsible for users not seeing the benefits of TRIM, the first of which are drivers at the OS level which have to be working optimally in order for TRIM to function correctly.  Another example occurred with early Windows 7 users testing their newly installed drives and not seeing the benefits of TRIM.  Examination of these complaints revealed that users would have originally made the Windows 7 installation on hardware that did not support TRIM and then cloned to the SSD to which TRIM was supported but would not work because of the original configuration settings.  The same could be said of cloning an OS that originally had AHCI turned off followed by a clone to the SSD where TRIM was not being passed, simply because AHCI has to activated for TRIM to function.
    ENHANCE SSD OVER PROVISIONING MANUALLY
    In our conversation, we breached the topic of SSD capacity to Mr Smith to which he replied, “Are you trying to optimize performance or maximize capacity?” which reminded us that the main purpose of the consumers transition to SSD was to maximize their system performance.  Filling a drive to capacity will hinder TRIM and GC ability which will result in performance degradation. Many drives will start to display performance changes once filled to 70% capacity.  Testing has shown that the user can very simply add to the drive, especially if it is a 7% over provisioned drive, by reducing the size of the partition, the new unallocated space of which will automatically be picked up as over provisioning and benefit the SSD in many ways.  This idea has been tackled by Fusion IO who includes a utility within their products that allows the user complete control of the size of their over provisioning.
    OWC 120Gb SSD With 16x8Gb NAND Flash = 128Gb Total (7% OP)
    Over provisioning allows more data to be moved at one time which, not only enhances GC,  but also reduces write amplification to the drive.  Write amplification is a bit tricky of an explanation but it is the measure of how many bytes are actually written when requiring storage of a certain number of bytes.  A ratio of 1:1 would be ideal but not a reality and a typical result would be an actual size of 40kb written for a typical 4kb file.  In short, maximizing over provisioning and reducing write amplification increases the performance and lifespan of the drive.  Over provisioning also provides for remapping of blocks should the bad blocks be discovered during wear leveling, which unlike a hard drive, does not reduce the end user capacity of the drive. The replaced blocks simply come from the over provisioning.
    http://thessdreview.com/ssd-guides/optimization-guides/ssd-performance-loss-and- its-solution/
    Reducing the time GC takes
    Increasing the amount of freespace available after a GC (which increases the time it takes for performance to degrade after a GC)
    It lets the FTL have a wider selection of pages to choose from when it when it need a new page to write to, which means it has a better chance of finding low write count pages, increasing the lifespan of the drive
    Now, I want to be clear, a sufficiently clever GC on a drive that has enough reserved space might be able to do very well on its own, but ultimately what TRIM does is give a drive GC algorithm better information to work with, which of course makes the GC more effective. What I showed above was a super simple GC, real drive GCes take a lot more information into account. First off they have to deal with more than two blocks, and their data takes up more than a single page. They track data locality, they only run against blocks have hit certain threshold of invalid pages or have really bad data locality. There are a ton of research papers and patents on the various techniques they use. But they all have to follow certain rules based on on the environment they work in, hopefully this post makes some of those clear.
    http://www.devwhy.com/blog/2009/8/4/from-write-down-to-the-flash-chips.html

  • "Replace  information on iPad" Mail accts next sync?

    When I first set up my partner's iPad2, I used her mail acct info within my Mac login acct. In order to now get it to sync with the same Mail acct but from her Mac area, we need to do MacItunes>iPad>Info:Advanced:"Replace information on this iPad √Mail Accounts" ("iTunes will replace the selected information from this computer").
    Now this could mean just the acct settings or all the mails too (ie. trash the ones on the iPad). I suspect the latter (and therefore will need to send all crucial mails across before I re-sync); can anyone confirm this?
    She also has a GMail acct which only sits on the iPad. I guess this needs setting up within her Mac area too? Advice on the best order of these steps?
    PS.(afterthought) I gather only IMAP (not POP) accts allow one to have folders in iPad Mail; does every ISP other mail in both or do I need to check with ours before we attempt this? Any threads to point me too.
    Thx

    Hi there Greg,
    Welcome to Apple Support Communities.
    It sounds like you want to always replace content on your iPhone 5S with content from Outlook on your PC, to do this you’ll just have to Reset the Sync History in iTunes as shown below.
    Troubleshooting Sync Services on Windows with Microsoft Outlook 2003, Outlook 2007, or Outlook 2010 - Apple Support
    To reset sync history:
    Open iTunes.
    From the Edit menu, choose Preferences.
    Click the Devices tab.
    Click the Reset Sync History button.
    If the issue continues and you know all of the data is on the computer:
    Reset the Sync History again using the steps above.
    Select the device in iTunes and click the Info tab.
    Scroll down to the Advanced section, and under "Replace information on this iPhone/iPad/iPod touch" select Contacts or Calendars.
    Click Apply.
    Cheers,
    -Jason

  • What Mac should I get for basic Photoshop usage?

    I'm hoping to tap into the vast resources/opinions here.
    I'm planning to get a Mac for my office. It will be use primarily for basic Photoshop usage. Maybe making some movies from iPhoto. The other usage would be normal ones like web surfing.
    Please suggest a desktop Mac first, and a laptop Mac 2nd.
    Which Mac model would be most cost-effective and doesn't need upgrading every year?
    Thanks a lot!
    Mavis

    Mavis, the answer to your question really depends on what you mean by 'basic' Photoshop use.
    Bearing in mind that Photoshop has been used by professionals in graphics and design houses for many years, typically working on hardware that is substantially less powerfull than a Mac mini, there is no reason to beleieve that even the entry-level Mac can't sucessfully be used for this kind of work, and those who suggest otherwise simply haven't tried it. However, there are some things that you need to keep in mind when using this software: the first is that Photoshop runs better the more memory you have, the second is that Photoshop files can require large amounts of storage, and the third is that the most recent version tends to place heavy demand on the processor - meaning that the faster the processor the better it runs.
    Thus, any Mac you buy for Photoshop use should ideally be equipped with 1Gb RAM rather than any less. You should also consider getting either the largest internal hard drive you can, or an external firewire drive for extra file storage.
    A Mac mini with 1.42GHz processor and a 1Gb RAM upgrade would certainly be sufficient, even for fairly demanding Photoshop work. The internal 80Gb drive for that model would give you a reasonable amount of space for files, though you would be wise to add a larger external drive too if the work you are doing is at all crucial. The same system would also be capable of your iPhoto work too. If your use is more casual, then the 1.25GHz mini would be enough, but again you'd need the 1Gb RAM upgrade.
    If your intended use is more at the commercial end of Photoshop use, then the chances are that even though a mini would be sufficient, you'd be better with an iMac or G5 tower, simply because for pro-level work, these systems are faster and permit smoother and more productive workflow.
    It also has to be said that no Mac will need upgrading each year, unless your level of use or your needs of that system change dramatically. A system you buy today will remain just as functional into the future. In other words, the best way to minimize the risk of having to upgrade in the forseable future is to work out exactly what you want the system for and buy a system that meets your present (and projected future) needs.

  • Macbook pro freezing problem 2010 SSD Optibay Help

    Hi just need a little advice, I have a Macbook Pro mid 2010 15" running mountain lion
    Around 2 years ago i replaced the superdrive with a 60gb Crucial SSD housed in an optibay. On this runs the OS and all of my applications. In the normal HD drive I have a 1TB disc which saves all my photos movies music etc.
    Everything has worked fine but recently my Mac keeps freezing and I get a spinning ball, this happens normally after around 10 minutes of use no matter what apps I have running. It will then require keeping hold of the power button to shut it down.
    I am unable to run hardware test as I have no disc drive to insert the original disc and holding down D does not work.
    I have checked and repaired disk permissions but it stated nothing was wrong.
    Any advice much appreciated.
    Thanks Dan

    Apple Store won't touch it with an Opti Bay installed. It's almost certainly a firmware issue with the Crucial SSD. Is it the M4? There is a well known bug when you hit 5000 hrs of uptime that results in hourly beachballs on all Crucial M4 SSDs.
    You need to check the drive's firmware status in About This Mac -> More Info -> System Report -> Serial-ATA -> and then check the "Firmare Revision" of your SSD against Crucial's website:
    crucial . com . store / ssd. aspx (remove the spaces - Apple is jealous of other links, sorry)
    Then find the latest firmware and figure out the best way of installing the update - it will not be easy without a CD drive unless Crucial has finally finished their Mac OS X-compatible software for providing firmware updates - which they had not yet provided as of a couple months ago when I ran into this issue.
    The bottom line is the Apple Store will be of no use to you unless you remove your Opti Bay and replace your original components, and even then your warranty is probably expired so you're out of pocket and they won't have the solution anyway if it's indeed Crucial firmware.
    FYI, if you do have an M4 from Crucial, the firmware revision you WANT is 040H.
    [edit]
    I should note two important things:
    1) It is impossible to update the SSD's firmware with an EXTERNAL/USB CD drive/burner. Only a SuperDrive connected to the SATA ports is bootable.
    2) Crucial provides a Windows program that is supposed to update any internally connected SSDs to the newest firmware but it does not work on a Mac with Boot Camp - you must remove your SSD and install the firmware via a Windows computer or through the much more difficult process of building a bootable Mac USB key with the firmware revision installed on it. I never tried this route, because it seemed unlikely to succeed.

  • SuperDuper kills only Crucial M4 SSDs or all the brands?

    Today I have bought a Crucial M4 SSD 2,5 512GB to replace my MacBook Pro HD. I connect it with usb to sata cable to my Mac, format it and begin copying the data using SuperDuper. 5 minuts later I get an error, the drive is ejected and from that moment it has been impossible to mount, erase or repair.
    Disk Utility shows the drive with the partition name blurred. If I click mount I get the "run first aid" dialog. First aid says the drive seems OK. If I try to format it another error and DiskWarrior reports a hardware failure. Searching the discussions I find it seems SuperDuper damages the lookup table or something similar. As it was not exactly my idea of quality paying as I paid 1 euro per Gyg, I have returned the SSD and got a refund. The question now is: are all the SSD drives so fragile or partially incompatible or there's one that I can use just exactly like a mechanical hard drive???

    Just to clarify the subject: SuperDuper KILLS NOTHING. I bought a second identical Crucial M4 512GB and I got same identical behaviour: ten minutes installing MacOS from DVD then death, unrecoverable, not recognized as a hard drive nor nothing attached to the usb bus...
    I needed a PC to revive the drive and to upgrade the firmware. After that it works like a charm, first in an external drive for testing and now inside my 2008 MacBook Pro.
    So if you are looking for an ssd drive and googling you end reading this, first of all UPGRADE THE SSD FIRMWARE, and then don't forget to enable TRIM using one of the Trimenabler apps you can get on the internet.
    Hope this helps somebody.

  • HT5381 i did a software update and now mail wont open at all

    Help......my mail app is coming up with an error "You can't use this version of Mail with this version of Mac OS X".  Can I uninstall the update?

    !! WARNING !!
    about the September 2012
    "Security Update 2012-004"
    If you've got "Mail.app" in a folder OTHER THAN the root "Applications" folder,
    MOVE "MAIL.APP" TO THE APPLICATIONS FOLDER
    **BEFORE** INSTALLING THE "004" UPDATE!!
    Because *IF* you use OSX's integrated Software Update app from the Apple menu to do the "004" updating, and *IF* your Mail.app is NOT in the Applications folder, then buddy, you've got some sitdown fixit time ahead of ya and/or some internet tie-up time downloading the "004" update file itself.
    Been through it all, already.  In fact, just got done getting my Mail back up & running. And I tried everything short of attempting to unpacking my "Mail.pkg" receipt file using... whatever... even Pacifist couldn't get it out. So that fixit "Plan D" died quick. And I'm not savvy enough to use Terminal commands to do "Plan E," so that SUDO stuff was my brick wall.
    So I compressed my entire "Mail" subdirectory that contain all my emails, for safekeeping during the required surgery, or whatever would work, leaving the original Mail directory where it was. In case something bad happened in all my fixit whatevers, the one thing I *didn't* want to cross paths with was a hosed Library -> Mail folder. Then I'd be pssd. But I can wipe out that ZIP now 'cause all's well now. After 6 hrs of downloading thru a mobile broadband hotspot running at only 14KB/sec speed due to my having gone over my T-Mobile hotspot plan's bandwidth amount (throttled-down after reaching the limit, tho not cut off completely. Kinda nice, but it's a huge speed drop).
    I tried moving the two Mail.app versions around, compressing them & then trashing the original so they wouldn't be recognized, blabla, even booted my Mac in Safe Mode & reinstalled the "MacOSX 10.6.8 (Snow Leopard) Update Combo.dmg" update file, which in the past has fixed many problems. But after restarting, not this one.
    Like a dummy who ignored knowing better, I had my Mail.app in a folder other than the Applications folder, with only an alias to that being in the Applications folder. NOT GOOD ENOUGH. The updater don't see that as nuthin special or useful.
    So if you've got, like I've got, "old" icons for Mail.app (v4.5) in your Finder toolbar & in your Dock that all point to "Mail.app v4.5" in whatever folder you've got that in, other than in the Applications folder (where Apple apparently REQUIRES that it be located, and ONLY there, at least for OSX updating purposes), then after you download & autorun that "004" updater using Software Update, NONE of your pre-existing Mail icons will work. And MOST aggravatingly, **NOR** will your brand-new "Mail.app v4.6" work that came out of the "004" updating installation.  So basically, your Mail.app's... all of 'em.... are hosed. But only if you run the "004" update without your "Mail.app v4.5" being located in your Applications folder and ONLY in your Applications folder. And duplicates of Mail.app, scattered around your HDD??  Always a problem with many Apple apps.... The Apple software engineers apparently like 'em to be in the Applications folder, and in ONLY there, and ONLY the latest version, and ONLY 1 single copy of each on your entire HDD. They just don't seem to stress that enough, it appears. Kind of an oversight for them to not emphasize that, IMO...
    My recommendation for this particular September 2012 "004" update:
    If you run Software Update, and if you see the "Security Update 2012-004" listed as available for download, UNCHECKMARK IT.  DO NOT DOWNLOAD IT USING SOFTWARE UPDATE !  Instead, download the actual update file itself.
    Same thing, only a different way of doing it. Most importantly, you'll be skipping the auto-installation that Software Update performs.
    AND you'll have that update file on your HDD for future fixits, should a nasty "unfixable" problem come up.
    First, #1. Do a filename search for "Mail" (Option-Command-Spacebar). Scroll down to where the "Apps" are located in the list under the "Kind" column heading. First, find your Mail.app that's v4.5. Get that bugger into your Applications folder if it's not already there. Next, Trash all other "Mail.app" apps you see in that same list that you may have elsewhere on your HDD.
    #2. Go here: https://support.apple.com/kb/DL1586
    And download the actual "004" DMG update file: "SecUpd2012-004.dmg"
    And of course, it's a biggie.... 270MB... so watching grass grow may be involved here if you've got a slow connection (go to a MacDonalds & do it, like I shoulda done).
    3. After downloading, I'd recommend closing down all apps, emptying the Trash, and restarting.
    Then, after restarting, run Disk Utility's "Repair Disk Permissions."
    Then, doublecheck that the Mail.app version 4.5 is in your Applications folder.
    THEN fire up & install "SecUpd2012-004.dmg."
    Reboot.
    After the reboot, your Mail.app version 4.5 in the Applications folder will have become Mail.app version 4.6 in the Applications folder, and all will be well again.
    And you can dump that zipped-up "Username -> Library -> Mail" folder then, too.
    Happy Mac'in!
    Kevin Kendall
    Macbook 7,1
    (Apple's very last all-white Macbook model)
    2.4GHz - 256GB Crucial SSD - 8GB Crucial RAM
    OS 10.6.8 Build 10K549 + Win 7 Ultimate thru VMWare Fusion v5.0.1

  • How do I install OSX onto a new SSD (in the place of my optical drive) without transferring all data across.  However, with the applications, system and library on the SSD to improve the speed, but keep non essential items (the home folder) on the HDD

    I have a mid 2009 13 inch unibody 2.53GHz MacBook Pro.  I'm finding that it doesn't run as quickly as it used to. 
    A genius in the Apple store suggested that I replace my optical drive with an SSD, however only use the SSD for OSX, applications, system and library.  Keep all documents, pictures, music etc on the current hard drive. 
    I would be grateful if someone could help me with:
    1) installing OSX on the SSD without copying across data from the current hard drive
    2) transferring applications, system and library folders across to the SSD so that they still function
    3) changing my settings so that OSX reads the home folder from the current hard drive, as well as all the applications' data (documents, music etc...)
    However, I would like to run iMovie, with all events etc solely from the SSD to speed up the process of editing movies.
    If anyone could help with this, it would be much appreciated.

    If you got the data transfer cable with your SSD, the procedure should be pretty simple - and there should be step-by-step instructions in the box. You're simply going to remove the bottom case of your computer (using a Phillips #00 screwdriver), take out the two screws in the bracket holding the hard drive into place (using same screwdriver), remove the drive and (use a Torx 6 screwdriver) remove the four screws that hold the hard drive in place. Then put in the SSD and reassemble the machine.
    Then you'll plug up the old hard drive by using the SATA to USB cable and use the option key to boot from the old drive. I don't know what data transfer software Crucial provides, but I would recommend formatting the SSD  using Disk Utility from your old drive ("Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" with a single GUID partition) and then use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your old drive to your new SSD (see this user tip for cloning - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4122). You needn't worry about getting an enclosure since you have the data transfer cable and you don't want to use your old hard drive.
    There are a number of videos on YouTube that take you step-by-step through this procedure - many specific to Crucial SSDs and their data transfer kit - do a little searching there if you're unsure of how to procede.
    Clinton

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