How I fixed my problem how about you

Background info
My Shuffle would not install properly on my laptop. I would plug it in the green light would flash twice then the orange/green error light would flicker then it would repeat that light pattern and windows would report a usb error.
Info about this solution
I found this solution on the web however it's orignal intent was to fix a problem with a sony camera that also used the USB mass storage drivers I have adjusted the guide to suit my situation. Also note that I knew ahead of time my USB 2.0 chain was unstable.
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK IF YOU SCREW UP YOU HAVE ONLY YOU SELF TO BLAME AND KNOW YOU WILL BE CLEARING ALL USB DRIVERS FOR ANY DEVICES YOU HAVE
My Laptop Runs XP SP2 Fully Updated
Step 0: Unplug ALL USB Devices NO Exceptions!
Step 1: Remove Hidden Devices
1. Click Start. Click Run. Type cmd and press OK.
2. Type "set DEVMGRSHOWDETAILS=1" (without quotation marks) and press Enter.
3. Type "set DEVMGRSHOW_NONPRESENTDEVICES=1" (without quotation marks) and Press Enter.
4. Type "start devmgmt.msc" (without quotation marks) and click press Enter.
5. Click View. Click Show hidden devices.
6. Click "+" to expand Unknown devices and USB devices.
7. Are there any USB and unknown devices (including grayed out devices)? If so, please right click it and click Uninstall. (Devices, Hubs, Controllers, Etc)
Step 2: Remove all oem*.inf files
=========================
1. Click start and click run then under the run line type in the command "cmd" (without the quotation marks)
2. In the command line, type in the following (without the quotes) and press enter after each command:
"cd \windows\inf"
"ren infcache.1 *.old"
"ren oem*.inf *.old"
"del C:\windows\setupapi.log"
"exit"
Step 3: Removing all entries under HKEYLOCALMACHINE/Enum/USB that start with VID
==================================================================
Removing the VID entries from the registry will cause them to be redetected at restart.
CAUTION: If you have a USB keyboard or mouse, do not remove the VID entry for these devices, otherwise, Windows may not restart correctly.
1. Click Start and click Run. Type regedit and click OK. The Registry Editor window will open.
2. Go to HKEYLOCALMACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Enum\USB.
3. Highlight and delete all the VID_.... entries. (Also I deleted the entire USBSTOREfolderE
Permissions may be set allowing the deletion of the VID_ entries by following the steps below:
a) Right-click the key to be deleted, and then click Permissions. The VID_... Permissions window will open.
b) With Everyone highlighted in the Group or User name section, select Full Control in the Permissions section.
c) Click Apply, and then click OK.
4. Turn off the computer.
Step 4: Reconnect the digital camera to the computer system:
1. Restart the computer.
2. Reinstall the software from the cd.
3. Restart Computer
4. After the Windows has finished restarting. Disable the USB 2.0 Controller in device Manager (aka USB ENHANCED)
5. Plug the Ipod into the usb port.
6. A New Hardware Detected window should open and reload the drivers.

Well, when I read 380W PSU I tyhought that doesn't sound much. What will all that kit you've got in there. Plus trying to run a raid on top which means the PSU works harder & uses more power.
But then I realised it's Antec TruePower and that means it ought to be fine @ 24A on +12v.
On the other hand I've seen lots of posts about an apparent incompatibility between Antec PSUs and nforce m/boards generally - have you seen those? This one refers to the Neo2 and doesn't really seem to reach a conclusion, but it has links to other discussions on the same subject. Maybe worth trying a different one just to test it.
Otherwise the next bet is the ram if it's low latency SPD in which case you may need to relax it a notch or try increasing the ram voltage a notch - but I don't know if what you have is low latency or valueram or what.
It might help if you could capture the crash error messages. You can do that by turning off automatic restarts so you get time to read the BSODs - or else there might be something in the event log.

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Process:         launchd [458]
Path:            /Users/USER/Library/Application Support/Steam/*/Starbound.app/Contents/MacOS/starbound
Identifier:      com.chucklefish
Version:         ??? (???)
Code Type:       X86-64 (Native)
Parent Process: launchd [154]
Date/Time:       2014-01-06 19:19:28.898 -0500
OS Version:      Mac OS X 10.7.5 (11G63b)
Report Version: 9
Interval Since Last Report:          1786 sec
Crashes Since Last Report:           23
Per-App Crashes Since Last Report:   23
Anonymous UUID:                      6F40DBC0-08A7-4A21-A80E-185F669D1C93
Crashed Thread: Unknown
Exception Type: EXC_BAD_ACCESS (SIGSEGV)
Exception Codes: KERN_INVALID_ADDRESS at 0x00007fff5fc01028
Backtrace not available
Unknown thread crashed with X86 Thread State (64-bit):
rax: 0x0000000000000055 rbx: 0x0000000000000000 rcx: 0x0000000000000000 rdx: 0x0000000000000000
rdi: 0x0000000000000000 rsi: 0x0000000000000000 rbp: 0x0000000000000000 rsp: 0x0000000000000000
   r8: 0x0000000000000000   r9: 0x0000000000000000 r10: 0x0000000000000000 r11: 0x0000000000000000
r12: 0x0000000000000000 r13: 0x0000000000000000 r14: 0x0000000000000000 r15: 0x0000000000000000
rip: 0x00007fff5fc01028 rfl: 0x0000000000010203 cr2: 0x00007fff5fc01028
Logical CPU: 2
Binary images description not available
External Modification Summary:
Calls made by other processes targeting this process:
    task_for_pid: 1
    thread_create: 0
    thread_set_state: 0
Calls made by this process:
    task_for_pid: 0
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Fixed my iphone4s battery problem, how about you?

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I have an iPhone 4S and it got pretty buggy when I updated to iOS 6.0. I waited as long as I could before updating to 6.0.1 but when I saw the story on Engadget about iOS 6.0 causing a lot of phones to repeatedly download the same data/apps/texts, etc. I took the plunge and updated to 6.0.1.
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It's been five days since I posted my question. And I have been very happy with the performance of my phone. Wifi is great now that I disovered that putting proxy on Auto seems to help with most hotspots, especially at work. Battery life is really good. I can get through the day with normal use, make and receive phone calls, send and receive text messages, use normal apps, play games, look things up on the web, etc. Nothing really heavy but normal usage for me and I am at 30 - 35% battery left at midnight when I plug my phone back in to charge over night.
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ICloud isn't ready yet for me..how about you?

iCloud is becoming that "thing" that has everyone excited abou the next best thing in computing...however, we are still working and living in a real world.
iCloud for Windows. Not compatible with Windows XP. Epic fail. XP has the largest install base on the planet, yet Apple chose to not support it in iCloud. Because of issues with Vista and Win7, alot of companies(mine included) are still on XP and not likely to change soon. Again, EPIC fail.
Documents. Only will sync Pages documents? Can't upload other file types we may want to access along with iWork. Over promised and under-delivered. I can use Dropbox or Box.net regardless of file type.
Photos. Shares them on the iOS devices but where can I show them to someone while on the web browser? Oh, I can't. Guess I'll keep Picasa.
Calendar-Unless you are all Mac or Mac with WinVista or 7, then you're out of luck unless you want to manually manage all of your appointments by import and export of the ICS files. No thanks. While I was hoping to move my calendar off of the Exchange server at work, it can't happen just yet.
Mail. I jumped in too quickly. What happens when I reach my 5GB limit of docs and email? I either delete some or pony up the $$$ for more space. As a GMail user who jumped to Me.com, I'm going back to GMail.
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Am I missing something here? If so, please enlighten me.

Thanks for your opinion. It's clear that the iPad is not for you, though I'm not quite clear on why you created an account here just to say so.
As to the iBooks app, SirBlue is correct; that is planned for the iPhone and iPod touch in the upcoming OS 4.
Have a great day.
Message was edited by: Dave Sawyer

Toshiba Satellite L3** CD/DVD issue !!! Here is my solution. How about you?

Hello everyone. Nowadays, I see on this forum people are discussing about the CD/DVD issues on L30/L300/L350. I would like to share my experience on this issue and hope everyone shares your experience as well.
My laptop are Toshiba L30 PSL33 and Toshiba L300 PSLB2E. I am lucky that I have no problem with CD/DVD discs/drives as I can read/write/play CD/DVD smoothly. However, I used to have some problems with CD/DVD drive on my notebook. Here is my experience.
1) Make sure there is no other CD/DVD softwares on your computer (except the orginal software from Toshiba). Especially to those who have been used to using Nero. If you have problems, try to remove Nero and test with the one supported by Windows
2) If you still have problems, try to update the firmware of the DVD drive. It can be done by visiting the Toshiba Support Driver site (http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com/). Check what drive you have by looking at the Device Manager. Download the newest firmware from there and update your drive.
3) My last solution. If you have Vista pre-installed, try to get a XP version on your computer and do not install any other software. Test/copy a CD by using windows writing tool to see whether the problem is solved or not.
In my opinion. the main reasons you may encournter are: there are CD/DVD drives have XP firmware base and need to be updated so that they can be used in Vista; or there are software like Nero and PowerDVD are causing the conflict between the ACPI controllers (real and simulated).
Hope this may help you all. If you have other experiences, please share with everyone.
PS: Please excuse my language as I am not an English speaker.
Edited by: Admin

Hi anhchuong!
Thanks for this nice solution instructions. In future, this ways,s mentioned by you, should be checked first.
I really like this one!
Rock on dude! ;)

Another fried DRAM - how about you?

My Mega180 has been running stable for quite some time. I haven't made any changes to the system, hardware or software, in a long time. I noticed that it started to seem slower. I didn't think much of it until one time on a whim I checked the amount of memory being reported.
On of the two memory sticks was not being reported. By process of elimination, I determined one of the two sticks would not work, in either SIMM socket. The other stick worked in either socket. The one stick must be "bad".
When I put this system together I had DRAM problems. I don't remember all the details, but I had to send in my match DRAM set for an exchange because one of them was "bad", just like now.
I've noticed quite a few mentions of bad memory on this forum, so what I'm wondering, is just how many people have had memory "fried" by their Mega PC?

Quote from: cosmosk on 14-February-05, 23:57:49
I've had my Mega 180 since Sept. 04. I have 1 stick of Kingston 2700 512 MB... No problems.
Congratulations.
Thanks for offering, but I wasn't asking for help in debugging my ram problem. I know that it went bad in the Mega 180 under normal operating conditions. I was only wondering how many other people have had a similar experience.
BTW - Kingston matched pair PC2700 256MB sticks (512MB total). Lifetime warranty. This is argueably the best quality DRAM around. Twice now I've had one of the two sticks go bad. The first time I got a free replacement on the pair from Newegg. The second time directly from Kingston. Cheers to Kingston, cheers to Newegg, jeers to MSI.
I think the design is causing DRAM failure. I'm guessing it's heat related, but who knows. I only know that I do electrical design for a living, and throw together computers as a hobby, and I've never had unexplainable dram problems like this.

Me love the new 4, even after standing in line for hours, how about you?

i got it! (after multiple hours of line standing at valley fair mall. Santa Clara, CA.) -Apple was great about it though they catered the lines with Cheesecake factory delivering us with rations, such as Cheescake, Pizza, potstickers, lemonaide and Dreyers Ice Cream.
Any Ways, Its Delightful & worth the wait.
synched up to the Wi/Fi and its jamming.
what do u think?

I live in a smaller town of about 28,000 and i got to our local Walmart store at 5:00 Am, I was 4th in line and they only had 7 units... They started activation at 8:00 and besides some complication in SIM activation that took about 30 mins to fix at my local AT&T store im running good and loving it... Im glad i didnt have to wait too long in line... lucky i guess
Plus no service issues, i get full bars most of the time.
Message was edited by: D.Williams

Considering Upgrade -- How about you guys?

Hi all.
I wonder if where basic phone users are nowadays. Everyone seems to be tied to their Samsung Galaxy or newest iPhone. Increasingly I find it very difficult to stay un-conformed to everyone else. Every time I am asked to use my smart phone to take pictures or go on Facebook when I am stuck with the worst possible basic phone I've ever possess (Samsung Convoy™ 2).
I generally have Wifi wherever I go, but I guess I am willing to buy data in case I ever get stranded in unfamiliar places.
Have people done their researches about this matter? I can't quite figure out that for two year contracts, what is the cheapest additional fee that I will have to pay? Will I have to pay more if I get one of the free smart phone offered? Would it be better if I purchase the same smart phone used? I have been staring at the pages for awhile but I can't quite figure out the difference between smart and basic phone plans.
Thanks for your thought and contribution!

You can get an IPhone 4 free from Verizon or an IPhone 4s for $100. You would also have to pay a $30 upgrade fee and sign a new 2-year contract. Your plan would not need to change, but you would have to purchase a data plan, probably the 2GB for $30 per month plan. Also, if you want to text, you can get 1000 text per month for $10 per month. So, your monthly cost will go up $40 per month. If you later changed your mind, you could put a basic phone back on your line and drop the data and text plans and you would be back to where you are now except for what you spent for the phone and the upgrade fee. Of course, you would have a new 2 year contract.

How I fixed my problem how about you

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