IMac Power supply PSU failure due to UPS type

I am posting this to aid anyone else who has suffered a similar issue as it took me some time to rectify and it was difficult to find evidence of proof.
Preamble:
My late 2012 27" iMac began powereing off, sometimes after a few days sometimes after 20 minutes. It gradually got worse until it would not power on at all.
I had tried all possible fixes I could including - reset SMC and NVRAM, reinstalling Mavericks, running from an external HDD with a cloned OS, running with a fresh Mavericks install on a USB stick.
Also ran Apple Hardware tests and used Micromat Techtool 7 with no problems apparent.
Also tried running when moved from my desk and plugged into a different socket in the house (this point is especially relevant).
Repair attempts:
Apple (via Amsys) changed the logic board. This worked for a day then the fault reoccurred. Apple (Apple store this time, Amsys scratched the aluminium housing previously so I avoided them) then changed the PSU.
This fixed the fault and the iMac ran with no problem (apart from audio missing - another discussion perhaps!), BUT when I moved the iMac back to its original position on my desk (having been plugged in the aforementioned other socket) it would not power on again. I then realised it was the UPS and iMac were not playing nicely. If I plugged the iMac into the UPS when the UPS was already powered on, the iMac would work until the next random power down. I have used the UPS with everything else including the iMac for over a year so didn't suspect it. However, I do have the occasional brownout (power dip) and power cut so it has been utilised for the iMac a handful of times without issue.
Solution:
I have now researched and concluded the iMac PSU (at least the Energy Star 5.0 onwards compliant ones, not sure about older iMacs) need a Pure Sine Wave UPS otherwise the PSU may be damaged as mine was. It may not happen until the UPS is called upon either. In fact any active PFC PSU could be affected. I could not find this out from Apple or APC (my UPS manufacturer), only with some reasearch and my own knowledge of electrics. It seems that not all iMacs are as sensitive or for other reasons this fault will not occur with a similar set-up to mine, but I am now confident that this was the cause. Please note I do not yet have my own Pure Sine Wave UPS and I am now running without one for the time being until I buy a Cyberpower CP1300EPFCLCD or similar.
Some of my references are below:-
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/apc-smt1500-cyberpower-cp1500pfclcd-tripp-li te-smart1500slt,2785.html
http://www.primegrid.com/forum_thread.php?id=5553
http://forums.macresource.com/read.php?1,1196487,1197254

Welcome, Cubber;
yes, there are some people complaining here about power supplies -
I'd contact Apple and tell them your problem. Being hit twice by the same failure is not nice. Usually they cooperate - have a look at just this post her:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=673758&tstart=0
Please, keep us informed how it ends.
Thomas

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G5 20" iMac Power Supply Issues Again!

Well, both of our old G5 iMacs have had the logic boards replaced under the extension repair program. Also one of of them had the PSU replaced as well under the same program. Well, now the other one has gone south. I pulled the power supply out and it had several bulging capacitors so I replaced them. However, I also noticed that there is a fried surface mount transistor right next to position R4 on the under side of the board. I've replaced the caps but I can't figure out the values of the fried transistor. I've taken some pics of it. I'm really hoping to track down the part and fix it myself. However, if not, might anyone have a replacement PSU for this 20" imac or know where I can get one inexpensively?
2nd question:
I went though the process of a service agreement on the Apple site. I entered the problems and got to the final page and it quoted me $74.95. However, I'm not sure what this charge is for. Do I ship the entire iMac in? or is this for a replacement PSU? I'd really like to make a trip to the Apple Store but we're stuck at home with a newborn for the next several days.
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Message was edited by: RRack

Hey Robet,
service agreement on the Apple site. I entered the problems and got to the final page and it quoted me $74.95
Hmm but you wouldn't have a service agreement on this machine. Call as DaddyPaycheck suggests.
I also noticed that there is a fried surface mount transistor right next to position R4 on the under side of the board. I've replaced the caps but I can't figure out the values of the fried transistor.
Wow you must be pretty good to want to try to replace that SMT transistor! I'd be afraid that there would be other damage as well: diodes, power ics, switch mode chips etc. I've got 4 G5 supplies here and only one worked after the cap swap. I didn't feel trouble shooting the entire supply was worth the time.
What I've done is more on the lines of this:
http://gallery.me.com/iamkimc#100033
Actually any ATX (non Dell) supply will work.
I extract 2 12V leads from the hard drive power plug using a pin extractor like here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQDS6G
I bought this but so far only use the top one. It works well. If you're only doing a few you can use some of the tricks here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-88644.html
If you look at the iMac G5 ALS pinout:
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/images/imacg5power_supplypinout.gif
and compare it to the 20 pin ATX:
http://www.subedartech.net/docs/pc/connectoratxpinout.GIF
On the right you see that the difference in the first 20 pins is: Pin 12 -12 VDC and Pin 18 - 5VDC. So I extract those two pins clip them off. Shrink tube the ends and replace them w/ 2 yellow leads (+12VDC) that I extract from the hard drive leads. Once cleanly extracted they just push and lock in place.
Note that pins 11 (black, ground) and 22 (Brown + 24VDC) are not covered. If you have the early ALS you don't need these two leads (go figure) but if you have the later or 20" you need a separate supply for those leads. I use a old 24VDC PowerBook supply for that. Model M7783 it puts out 24VDC at 1.0A.
It's kind of messy but all the parts fit behind the iMac and aren't seen.
Also it seems like you're watching your pennies w/ the new baby. (been there)
we're stuck at home with a newborn for the next several days
More like months with us.
Good luck and I hope you're sleeping.
Richard

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This forum is focused on consumer level products. For the Designjet you may have better results posting in the HP Designjet forum here.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

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I just got my iMac G5 back from Apple after having the power supply and logic board replaced for the second time in two years.
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You should probably also shut down every so often anyway - maybe once a week or so, to help clear some potential memory issues that can persist with some applications even under OSX, and you should certainly shut down at and start up again at any time when you notice slowdowns, program "hangs" or other problems.
Cheers
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Hi
Have u tried running the box with single power supply instead of both supplies ??
Also are u getting the LED status on both the power supply unit ??
You can also use show environment power,show environment,show power commands to check out the power supply status.
for more info on power supply management with 6500 do check this link out..
http://cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/switches/ps700/products_tech_note09186a008015bfa8.shtml
regds

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Thanks

Just wondering if you are sure that it is the PSU. Could the buzz come from one of the drive sleds? I would rule that out and make sure that it is the PSU. Take the sleds out and see if it is still buzzing. If the sleds have drives installed, the screws holding the drive in place might need to be slightly tightened (a loose drive will allow the sled to vibrate.) If there isn't a drive in the sled, the sled might be vibrating. Anyway, just a thought.
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Power supply (PSU) calculator

There is often discussion on what graphics cards the factory power supplies can power.
Here's a calculator where you can select different graphics cards (along with the rest of your system exactly) and see what power is recommended:
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Hi,
can you please provide full system specifications? Please read the >>Posting Guide<< to get an idea of what we need to know. Thanks.
Please test with one memory module only and see if that changes anything.
Quote
- Did a 6 hour stress test on the CPU (Prime95), no errors
Re-run Prime95 and put the emphasis of the test-run on RAM.

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In case you don't have the PDF of the tray-loader iMac tech manual, it is downloadable here.
http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/manuals/index.htm

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According to the linked Forum Topic, the SilenX brand fan (80mm x 25mm = 80mm square x 25mm thick) plugged directly into the power supply's circuit board without splicing wires. Even if you need to splice wires, you just leave enough of the original fan's wires intact by cutting them off close to the fan itself, then joining them to the identical wires on the new ones. Any store having electronic supplies will probably have the mini-wire connectors, that you slide over the spliced wires and crimp in place. Electrical tape doesn't hold up as well in hot environments. Don't leave any excess wire length laying about inside the power supply, touching some of the hot components. Use a small nylon wire tie to gather the excess wire together, and hold away from the circuit board's components. The power supply housing has two halves, that can be separated enough to access the fan, after removing some phillips machine screws. A Google search may provide a page with photos of the procedure. The case fan is 120mm square x 25mm thick. If you want to use the same connection point as the original, you may need to cut the wires close to the original fan and splice them to the new ones. Otherwise, those fans typically have a standard molex power connector, that readily plugs into an available power lead. When buying replacement fans, be sure to get ones that provide a high airflow (CFM rating) for the given speed (RPM) and noise level (db rating). The noise level is important, because even a new fan can be loud.

Cisco Power Supply error

What does out of regulation limits means ?
1 red "OUTPUT FAIL," normally is off but illuminates when power supply outputs are out of regulation limits
Thanks
Rosa

Hi,
Seet this:
LED
Meaning
INPUT OK
AC-input power supplies:
•Green—Source AC voltage is OK. (Input voltage is 85 VAC or greater.)
•Off—Source AC voltage falls below 70 VAC, is not present, or the PEM is turned off.
DC-input power supplies:
•Green—Source DC voltage is OK. (-40.5 VDC or greater.)
•Off—Source DC voltage falls below -33 VDC or is not present at the PEM.
FAN OK
Green—Power supply fan is operating properly.
Off—Power supply fan failure is detected.
OUTPUT FAIL
Red—Problem with one or more of the DC-output voltages of the power supply is detected.
Off—DC-output voltages within acceptable margins.
Note For proper operation of the OUTPUT FAIL LED, systems with single power supplies must be configured with a minimum of one fan tray and one supervisor engine. Systems with dual power supplies must have a minimum configuration of one fan tray, one supervisor engine, and one additional module. Failure to meet these minimum configuration requirements can cause a false power supply output fail signal.
This is for 6500 switches but apply to almost all models.
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/docs/switches/lan/catalyst6500/hardware/Chassis_Installation/Cat6500/0apwsply.html#wp1025570
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Is replacing power supply more than plug and play?

From all input I gather although my G5 is not the right serial for a free fix I probably have a power supply problem. Unless the inability to power on could be something else, I'm going to give you guys a little time to keep me from wasting some money. It's $100 to have my mac looked at here in Houston as far as I know and they wanted $150 to take a stuck CD out of it which gave me the courage to open her for the first time and it would seem to me I could install another power supply, but would like some feedback about pitfalls. T

I recently had a iMac power supply replaced under warranty. It is, apparently, a routine repair, and I had mine back in two days (including mail).
Power supply issues are easy to diagnose.
PRAM battery is the place to start, as it's the less radical solution.
Consider the power supply, a not-uncommon problem with vintage Macs. There's an easy way to find out. Make sure it's a time you're going to be able to monitor the machine.
1. Turn on the eMac. Go to System Preferences/Battery Saver, and turn these settings all the way to the right, to "Never."
2. Note the time, and leave your machine on until it shuts off. Note the time again.
3. Continue turning it on and noting the time. If the amount of time the eMac stays on gets shorter and shorter, then you have a power supply issue. This is more common for older machines.
Stuck CD is another issue; that can be any number of things, including a fried logic board. If you've attempted all the tricks, an expert may be your main recourse.

IMac Power supply PSU failure due to UPS type

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