Image Focal Distance

Hi All, Help please...
Using Adobe Photoshop CC (CS6) but when I go into image details it does not show Image Focal Distance. Previously it used to show distance given in metres using CS4.
Kind Regards
Nikki

Thanks guys. Sorry for the delay been mega busy!
I cant really show screen shots to you as I was using a old computer with CS4 previously. (it isnt setup anymore) My new pc is now using creative cloud photoshop. Camera raw is still used and the settings on the canon camera are still the same. The only difference is the canon software I previously used on my old pc as I now use Bridge I dont need that anymore. But I didnt do any editing in there anyway I just used it to browse the photos. Although updated I still do all the same editing processes that I did in CS4.
Thanks for your help

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Dear apple support
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I noticed the same problem in my iphone too. It differs when you switch from photo to video!

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It's faster to google "focal length iPhone".

Can 5 axis image stabilization be engaged with non system lenses for A7II and A7rII?

Many people use/will use their excellent non system manual focus non system macro lenses on the A7II and undoubtedly on the soon to be released A7RII. Stabilization in the X/Y planes is very very important for macro. Sony on the A7II only stablizes the X/Y planes for lenses that report the focus distance as best I can tell. Perhaps the lens compensation app or another can be modified so this data can be manually inputted or even change the firmware to allow this and thus stabilize all 5 axes. Focal length will need to be inputted of course as well. Perhaps there is another way around this that I have missed. Thanks for any comments.

Thank you for taking the time to answer. I have done more digging in reviews and recalled sony's announcments which implied on 3 axis IS is available w/o a lens that reports focsing distance. Not my favorite source, but review from PCMag: "If you're using a non-native lens, or even a native manual focus lens like the Zeiss Loxia 2/50, it's stabilized along three axes—yaw, pitch, and roll. There's a technical reason for that. In order to compensate along the x and y axes, the camera needs to know the distance to the subject, which requires electronic communication of the focal distance from the lens to the body. To compensate for the other three axes, the only data that needs to be transmitted is the focal length of the lens. Even if you're using a purely mechanical Leica lensit can be stabilized—you're able to manually enter the focal length via a menu. The only real downside to this is that the A7 II does not add that focal length to the recorded EXIF data, so if you like to track which lens a shot is captured with, you'll need to take notes." http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2475439,00.asp A friend informed me that on his A7II he must mount a non OSS Sony lens first to have any image stabilization with any of his totally manual lenses--seems the camera saves the settings of the last lens attached. Turning the cam off doesn't reset this--very odd---seems to be a bug in the firmware. I hope the A7rII is different. This whole issue is quite confusing. Appreciate any additonal clarification.

Allow 5 axis image stabilization for non system lenses in A7(r)II series

Many people use/will use their excellent non system manual focus non system macro lenses on the A7II and undoubtedly on the soon to be released A7RII. Stabilization in the X/Y planes is very very important for macro. Sony on the A7II only stablizes the X/Y planes for lenses that report the focus distance. Perhaps the lens compensation app can be modified so this data can be manually inputted or even change the firmware to allow this and thus stabilize all 5 axes. Focal length will need to be inputted of course as well. If the new field is left blank, no action is taken as not to affect users not interested in this feature. Olympus somehow allows all 5 axes to be stabilized just by putting in the focal length but it is not clear how they pull that off. Thank you for considering this.

Thank you for taking the time to answer. I have done more digging in reviews and recalled sony's announcments which implied on 3 axis IS is available w/o a lens that reports focsing distance. Not my favorite source, but review from PCMag: "If you're using a non-native lens, or even a native manual focus lens like the Zeiss Loxia 2/50, it's stabilized along three axes—yaw, pitch, and roll. There's a technical reason for that. In order to compensate along the x and y axes, the camera needs to know the distance to the subject, which requires electronic communication of the focal distance from the lens to the body. To compensate for the other three axes, the only data that needs to be transmitted is the focal length of the lens. Even if you're using a purely mechanical Leica lensit can be stabilized—you're able to manually enter the focal length via a menu. The only real downside to this is that the A7 II does not add that focal length to the recorded EXIF data, so if you like to track which lens a shot is captured with, you'll need to take notes." http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2475439,00.asp A friend informed me that on his A7II he must mount a non OSS Sony lens first to have any image stabilization with any of his totally manual lenses--seems the camera saves the settings of the last lens attached. Turning the cam off doesn't reset this--very odd---seems to be a bug in the firmware. I hope the A7rII is different. This whole issue is quite confusing. Appreciate any additonal clarification.

EXIF data - Why is so much is missing in LRx but in RAW / DNG / CR2 images

I've seen the limitations in the EXIF data as shown in LR. I've seen the comments that it would be SO useful to sort / filter by all the EXIF data available in LR.
However LR shows a small proportion of the information that is available in the Meta data but there is missing EXIF data, that is of use to users, not every day, but it is there and with the aforementioned improvement of searching / sorting / grouping / stacking, I'd like this data to be accessible.
I was looking to find all the correctly exposed images in sets of 3 auto bracketted images -2, 0, +2 from todays shoot but this info is not listed in LR
So I looked in PhotoGrok, and it told me that the image I was looking at was AEBBracketValue -2, ie 2 stops under exposed in a set of auto bracket.
It also told me my camera was 37º when I was shooting in Cape Town this morning. It most certainly was not that warm outside.
My reason for finding the correctly exposed images in the sets was to see if they had sufficient exposure data to be used as one image rather than combining the 3 bracketted images using fusion / enBlend software to rescue the shadow detail and highlight detail in my shoot.
If you do play with PhotoGrok, you see more info than may be / is / could possibly be useful. But it does list a great deal.
I do get the basics
exposure
aperture
focal length
35mm equivalent
focal distance
hyperfocal distance
colour balance
AEBBracketValue
and the list goes on.
More importantly, this data has been extracted by LR from Canon 5DII CR2 files to DNG, so LR can see all this info.
Anyway, that is my request.
There is limited EXIF data displayed in LR, there are requests for sorting / searching / listing / stacking by more of the meta data that LR accesses.
I would like to see much more of this data available to be sorted / searched / stacked, so I can find amongst all the EXIF data, the AEBBracketValue = 0, ie correctly exposed images.
Rob Cole - Does your anyfilter access more of this info?
Hillrdg- you asked me to give my motivations for making suggestions, so I''ve taken your advise on board and to substantiate my argument.
yes, there is a workaround - It is to sort all the photos by capture time or file number and arrange them into 3 images in a grid view and just select the correct column, but this is slow. More importantly, this request is about vastly improving access to EXIF data and for other uses of the vast amount of EXIF data available in images.
hamish NIVEN Photography

EricInsalaco wrote:
Now I was under the impression Preview/Versions only take up a miniscule space on the HD since they don't FULLY copy the master file, they more create a bridge between the two that amounts to a few MB. Is it possible that it's taking up a much larger amount than intended here (a la the same basic mail attachment problem, but with Preview)? If so, what directory would that be located in?
Apple's documentation on Versions and what is kept in the Versions database is misleading, in my experience, though others will argue to the contrary.
In any case, all the Versions files and the database that keeps track of them are in an invisible folder in the root directory called
.DocumentRevisions-V100
The easiset way to check its size is to show invisible files by pasting the following command in Terminal:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE; killall Finder
press 'return' on the keyboard.
Now navigate to the hard disk in Finder and you should see DocumentRevisions and its size.
To turn off invisible files, use the same command as above but replace TRUE with FALSE.
Message was edited by: softwater

Moving and Tilting the Camera for an optimum Lens Profile Creator image set

When framing the chart in different areas of the image frame, use a combination of physically moving and tilting the camera to achieve an optimal balance for LCP generation.
The following two passages are from the AdobeLensProfileCreatorCalibrationChartShhtingGuide.pdf
Page11/a -Move camera a bit to the left (so that when turning to the right to face the chart, it is about 10 to 30 degrees). Take a series of shots similar to the first three, above, except that the chart is framed at the center-left, top-left, and bottom-left areas of the image.
v. Move camera to the right, and do the same for the center-right, top-right, and bottom-right areas of the image
pg11/e - When framing the chart in different areas of the image frame, use a combination of physically moving and tilting the camera to achieve an optimal balance for LCP generation.
i. Only moving the camera to frame, so that image plane stays perfectly parallel to the chart, can have an adverse affect on LCP calibration data.
ii. Only tilting the chart may cause depth-of-field issues, where part of the chart may go too far out of focus due to the large angle of the chart in regards to the image plane. This can also have an adverse affect on LCP calibration data.
Does this mean to center the camera with the center/center shot so that the film plane is parallel with the calibration grid, then only use camera tilt on the tripod up and down for the top center an bottom center image. Then move the camera/tripod left (so that when turning to the right to face the chart, it is about 10 to 30 degrees) AND also pan the camera left to shoot the left top center and bottom image.
I think this combination of instructions have me stuck. Move left but not so much that the calibration target image is parallel with the film plane then pan the camera to get the desired framing.
Would I be correct to say - move left until the angel to the calibration image is 10-30 degrees and then use camera pan on the tripod to get the image framed properly. ... Is the desire to move as little as possible, or pan as little as possible, or to balance moving and panning in some way.
I am profiling a Nikon D7000/TAMRON 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6 lens and have a large target 36"x48" and read that I should shoot at minimum focus distance, 3x minimum, and 5x minimum which equates to 9.8 inches, 29.4 inches and 49 inches... I use this combo to shoot home interior shots at an focal distance of more like 10-20 feet from surrounding walls.. would I also need shots at (120 inches?) 10 feet?
I really (really) want to get the distance to subject and camera moving/pan combination right.
Please help.

There are a number of things darks/flats/bias can't remove: curvature, coma, pincushion, chromatic aberration. Some of those (pincushion i.e. showing stars on the chip in a slightly different position from their true position) may or may not be correctable with this sort of an app. It's possible using outside data (comparing the star locations in the image to their true locations in a catalog - that's a common astrophotography measurement and only takes seconds). Correcting curvature (differing focus off axis) chromatic aberration and coma (distorted star shape off axis) seem just what this app is about.
Printing a checkerboard on a nearby hill top sounds involved. Maybe I could get them to plough it in a regular pattern? :-)
The camera does not capture the data you mention. The images are usually in FITS format which has an enormous amount of data about the focal length, exposure time, amount of atmosphere through which you are looking, etc.
Calculating from the book value for the lens(es) camera chip etc would likely not be give a better result than the value obtained before correction. In some designs of scopes, particularly the most common ones, the focal length changes as you focus for example. The lenses and mirrors, comparing one scope to the next, are not perfectly identical.
But a dense star field would be something against which you could measure changes in star shape, focus, chromatic aberration and possibly even position. Once you figured out the parameters for your particular scope+corrector lenses+camera setup you could then use that profile thereafter.
I'd love to chat with that engineer I had heard you have one person who got a Meade SCT and started astroimaging just to learn the things we need and most astroimagers do use photoshop.
Drew S.

How to organise images (files) for profile creation

I am trying to get my head round this. I am on the way to shooting 324 images for one lens. Each set of 9 are together. Do I then group sets into a sub folder? And then those groups by, say, focal distance into another folder. Otherwise how does the creator cope with the massive memory requirement to cope with all the files at the same time? You can see that I am a bit of a dumb-dumb about this.

Good question. It would be very helpful to organize photos by the focus distance in separate folders because ALPC knows how to sort the focal length and aperture based on the EXIF metadata. The focus distance is a hit and miss. ALPC does not use it for sorting automatically. It has to be done manually. Say you put the images into folders A, B, C according to the three bucket of focus distances. Then import all the images in A, B, C in three separate batches (into to same project file). The ALPC will know to put images in A, B, C into three different focus distance sets while also sorting into finer sets based on the focal length and aperture. This is the easiest way to go.
If you work with a lot of images in a single project. I recommend saving the ALPC project file regularly so that you can always pick up where you left off the last time.
Hope this helps,
-Simon

When i preview my site all my images disappear but they work in dreamweaver?

When i preview my site all my images disappear but they work in dreamweaver? No broken links i can see them clearly in dreamweaver but i cant see them on the prieview in my browser, its just happened all of a sudden.

Im keeping my files in one folder if thats whay you mean, all sorted properly,
here is an example of just one of the images code:
<div style="padding-bottom:63.84096145629883%;" class="image-block-wrapper   " data-description="">
                                                  <noscript><img src="thecounterhomescreen.jpg" alt="thecounterhomescreen.jpg" /></noscript><img class="thumb-image" alt="thecounterhomescreen.jpg" data-src="thecounterhomescreen.jpg" data-image="thecounterhomescreen.jpg" data-image-dimensions="1333x851" data-image-focal-point="0.5,0.5" data-load="false" data-image-id="529232e4e4b0838eb29bdf53" data-type="image" />
                                        </div>
its not just one image, its happened to every sub page ive done it worked fine less than an hour ago.
All code is valid

Script to Create Image on the Fore Edge of a Book

Hello,
Here is an example of what I want to do:
http://blog.eyemagazine.com/?p=149
If you bend the pages of book, you can see an image (which is a word) on the fore edge of a book.
I was wondering if there is a script or if I could create a script that would be able to make this in indesign?
I have never made a script before, but I was imagining that it could go something like this:
Duplicate an image
Paste in place on the next page
Select the content inside the frame
Move the image x distance
And repeat all above for the next page.
then there would be an option for how many pages this would be done.
Does this sound at all possible, or am I just making this completely up?
Thanks in advance.

John, it is ssome sort of a bleed, but in this case it's not the part that 'might be cut off' that matters; it's the part that still needs to be on the page. Yes, I meant it to be (virtually) not-noticeable for the casual reader. Of course you can make it part of the page design, that ought to ease up matters.
The amount pages shift horizontally because of binding is called "creep", and this depends on the type of binding and the thickness of the paper. You cannot adjust for creep unless you know exactly how much this is and how your book is going to be printed and bound.
Airkite:
But the book that you printed worked out alright? Was it done with a different method?
This was a simple outlined text, not an image. Through the inaccuracies of printing and binding combined, there were no straight edges *anywhere* but fortunately the lines were thick enough to let you mentally connect them
This was done (I'm sure) with the method you proposed.
There is an alternative way, but it's way more expensive (on the other hand, the result is impressive): after the entire process of printing, binding, and cutting, books are put in a clamp one at a time and fed through a silk screen printer, fore edge on top, and printed with whatever you like.
I know of the existance of this technique but I haven't seen a book done like this in years and have no clue at all of the costs involved (writing that down in one sentence makes me realize those two might be connected).

Filter by lens focal length?

I would like to get an idea of how frequently I use different focal length settings on a particular zoom lens. The focal length used on each shot is in the metadata. I can see it shown right under the histogram in Library mode. Is there some way to build a custom filter to select photos with a focal length between 24-32 mm, for example?

Jeffrey Friedl has written a LR plugin that should address your needs:
Taken from his page:
"This plugin is designed to fill a specific hole in Lightroom's “Grid
Filter”, adding new fields by which you can filter images: “Focal
Length” and “Focal Length in 35mm”. The
former is the raw focal length of the lens, while the latter is viewed in
terms of the frame size of a 35mm film frame."
http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/focal-length-sort

Lens blur problem (depth layer gives a hard edge)

I have rendered out an RGB pass and a depth pass from my 3d package and dropped them into AFX using the lens blur filter to create some depth of field
After juggling with some of the settings I have got the focal distance I want but as you can see from the image I have a hard edge to my RGB layer.
Its as though the LensBlur effect is only working inside the matte of the layer its been applied to.
Ive tried precomping the layers and turning alpha channels off to see if that makes difference but no luck.
Can anyone suggest why the depth pass isnt blurring the edge too?
Thanks

Thanks for your input guys.
I did have the effect applied to the layer so I then precomposed it as suggested which has worked...... (see attachment)
However I now have a new problem!
I actually need the the focus to be reversed, with the background sharp and the foreground blurred.
I tried 'inverting the depth map' in the lens blur settings but it gave me the same problem as before with the hard edges....
Any ideas on how to get the focus working the other way around?

Nikon Nikkor 18-55 (non-VR), 55-200 VR

I shot images for and made two profiles, available here (and also submitted to Adobe).
NIKON 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6
NIKON 55.0-200.0 mm f/4.0-5.6
Both were shot under similar conditions:
indirect evening sunlight (even and relatively bright, but possibly changing in intensity)
8.5"x11" print on plain paper (crisp and high contrast, but subject to a little warping)
from a tripod (only pivoting the camera during each iteration, not panning)
one focal distance per focal length, all at f11 and ISO 100
nine images per shooting iteration (except one of the 18-55's iterations, for which I forgot one image)
three iterations for the 18-55 (18, 35, 55); five for the 55-200 (55, 70, 102, 135, 200)
RAW images (NEF, converted to DNG for the profile creator)
default settings except for entering dimensions for the profile creator
using a Nikon D40x
I posted a few example images are included as well, in case they are of interest. (If anyone is interested in the RAW images, I'd be glad to share those as well.)

I have moved the profiles (retiring the server which I had them on before): http://www.markfickett.com/lensprofiles/.

LensBlur and Depth Map issue

Ive posted on this topic before....
Im trying to use a depth map to simulate a focus pull on a shot.
Its entirely CG so I have been able to use a depth pass for use with lens blur.
As you can see from the image using the effect works on the middle image but when I adjust the focal dictance the blur only works within the confines of the depth map 'edges' creating a hard edge rather than a soft one.
I have pre-composed the depth map layer on its own and made the lens blur plug-in use this but I cant get what I need.
I also tried a version where the RGB passes of the CG were precomposed before adding the depth map. Made no difference
It seems that the focal distance is great....if you only want the BG out of focus.
I cant believe that Im stuck with that, so what am I doing wrong?

Thanks Mylenium
Shame the developers cant find the time to fix stuff before releasing loads of new features

Soft edges/blurred photos

I shoot on a 5d and at times I'll get part blurred image of a body, flowers, etc..., it happens outside but mostly indoors.
I use a 580 II flash and shutter speed is 60-80.
Dose any one else have or had this problem and if so what have you done to correct it?

I'm also from the film days & had my own darkroom too & the line under my regular messages is a generalization & not directed at you. One other thing besides the shutter speed might be that you're just a tiny bit closer than the minimum focal distance. A faster sync speed & maybe shoot from a bit further back until you solve which might be the problem.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Image Focal Distance

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