KT3 ultra.. adding a new HDrive ?

Have a KT3 ultra.. has worked flawlessly :-) So far.
Currently have an old WD ata 33 HD installed (only HD..2 Cd's though)
Want to install my just bought WD 80JB hd (ata 100)
 Any tricks tips or hints to temporarily install both HD's so's I can "copy" my old drive onto my new one, before removing it??
Am worried about compatibilty issues re old and new drives coexisting long enough for a successfull data transfer.

Best thing to do is  make the new drive the master,take out the old drive,reinstal xp(you are using xp,right)put the old drive in and copy the files you need and then reformat the old drive and use it as storage or backup..Ide controllers now allow you to use  two ata speeds,like 100 or 33,without any performance loss..in the old days the ide controller only ran as fast as the fastest device also if you must do a copy,WD has software on there web sight for tranfers such as yours. :P

Similar Messages

  • New MSI KT3 Ultra 2 Raid Board Install

    Hi All
    I have Just installed a new KT3 Ultra 2 Raid board and XP 2000+ CPU with 512MB Memory.
    Problem is that since I installed this new Board CPU and memory my PC has been playing up a little, Mainly Adobe Premier 6.5 . The audio that I capture will not playback off the time line, but I can hear audio from the timeline on stuff I have downloaded from the web. Also Get weird message boxes pop saying that PC Alert or Fuzzy Logic are already loaded (buggered if I can find Fuzzy logic).
    ALso CPU XP2000+ what is the operating speed of this Chip? I thought it was 1.6ghz, on boot up my PC claims it is running at only 1.2ghz.
    Am I wright in saying that I need to totally reinstall everything fro scratch including win XP?
    (sorry just put new board etc in on old install, slap wrist)
    CHeers
    Gary

    Hi tazman,
    It's not quite obvious from your explanation, but did you just install your new mobo, CPU and RAM without reformatting your Hard Drives and reinstalling the o/s?
    If so, this is a big no-no. This can cause all sorts of headaches for you and you are lucky that your computer is able to run at all. First things first, backup all of your important data files, then reformat your entire hard drive(s) from scratch, ie fdisk to get rid of all partitions, re-establish your partitions, then format away.
    Once this is done, you can reinstall your o/s, your updates, drivers and applications, etc. Not a particularly invigorating job but necessary I'm afraid. It all comes back to the UPnP activities where the o/s and your hardware become very much intertwined. All the best and have fun,  :D
    All the best,
    Dimal.

  • I upgrade a new mobo KT3 ULTRA 2-C

     Ather I set CMOS it booted the HD  Do need to reinstall XP OS ?Well I will reinstall anyway it will fix everything. Do you think? Its was working good for a hour but the red light4 is red means TESTING RTC REAL TIME CLOCK also red light bad memory change it out
    KT3 ULTRA 2-C the bottom right of 4 is red means TESTING RTC REAL TIME CLOCK. WHAY DOES THIS MEAN HOW long DOES THE TESTING LAST.WHAT DO I NEED TO DO?
    thank yaw  
    willettfx

    You can, but if you find problems, you'll know where they come from. BTW the faster memory will degrade to slower mem. speed. Also, if you'r running a 333FSB CPU. memories will run at that max.speed.

  • KT3 Ultra 2 Keyboard lock-ups

    I have a problem I haven't seen the answer to.  Just built a PC with MSI KT3 Ultra 2, 2000XP processor, GeForce4 Ti 4200 64 MB vid card, 256MB, Windows ME.  System has been stable for about 2 weeks now, but yesterday and today it has locked up the keyboard while web browsing (no other programs running).  Not sure what is occurring.  I have an intake and 2 exhaust fans and temps appear to be well with in acceptable ranges.  After this occurs, windows will lock-up on reboot at the ME splash screen.  Then sometimes, the pc wil reboot on the following restart fine.  Other times, it locks up again with an illegal division error after the splash.  No programs or hardware added lately that would have caused this.

    The second system has a 330 watt enermax power supply.  With the new system I put together, I put virtually the same board (MSI KT3 Ultra 2 with bluetooth and RAID), everything is the same as my first system (except the KT3 Ultra-ARU) and the stability is fine.  So, I'm reasonably confident its not the power supply.

  • MSI KT3 Ultra ARU - Can\'t install W2K !!

    I've just bought my first AMD powered rig and I'm not able to install W2K pro.   First let me say I'm not a computer novice and have been handling workstation/server hardware/software for years in the Intel world.
    The failure happens at different places in the install, with different results.. sometimes while copying files the system freezes.. sometimes in the middle of a copy i get the BlueSOD... sometimes after copying files when booting into Windows 2000 for the first time the system just reboots to a black screen and is unable to find a boot partition... so we start over and the install deletes copied files and begins again.
    KT3 Ultra ARU
    AMD 2200+
    Corsair CMX512-3000C2
    Pri IDE M - Seagate ST313021A 13GB
    Pri IDE S - Sony CDROM CDU6111-F
    Sec IDE M - Asus CDRW 4012-A
    Sec IDE S - none
    Raid Disabled in Bios
    Followed Mr.Steveo's guides for hardware installation, flashing BIOS from 5.4 (kept a copy) to 5.5.  No problems.
    Followed Mr.Steveo's guide for BIOS settings, using his recommendations to the letter, then after failure changed  SRRAM freq: to HCLK+66 for 3000C2 ram... BUT still fails.
    Additional detail - I lost my original W2KPro CD, and my copy is not bootable... so I'm creating a 2GB DOS partition and booting with a Win98 boot disk to get to the CD and running WINNT from there.
    I've gone through the posts on both the AMDMB and MSI forums and seen some insightful suggestions... but nothing that exactly duplicates by problems.  Hopefully one of you bright bulbs will be able to light my way.  :D
    When I get the BSOD I get different STOP errors:
    0x0000000A  IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
                (BIOS or Drivers using improper memory address)
    0x0000001E  KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
                (A kernel mode process tried to execute an illegal or unknown processor instruction)
    HELP !!

    Back Rev'd the Bios to 5.4 but that didn't help.  Back to the forums...  
    Bas - Thanks for reminding me of the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid).  I had simplified the HW but was still altering the Bios settings to where I know they should be.
    WELL - I HAVE SUCCESS !!
    In further research, (being new to this - remember?) I also find threads saying that I'm supposed to clear the CMOS/NVRAM using a motherboard jumper before powering up the board for the first time and after changing processors.  I don't know how accurate that is - maybe someone will be kind enough to elaborate.  
    I've asked Mr.Steveo in the AMDMB forums if he thinks this step needs to be included in his hardware installation guide.  I followed it religiously in my install and it doesn't mention doing this.
    Anyway, I got the OS installed.  After that, I went back into the Bios and added all suggested settings.  I'm getting "2200+" in the boot screens and in the OS.
    Now lets finish the install and see if we remain stable.  After several days of burnin, I'll OC some to see what I can get.
    Thanks Guys!!

  • PC Component power requirements on a KT3 Ultra-ARU: ANSWERS - At last

    G'Day Folk,
    First, my PC specs are as below in my sig.
    Second, I know this is an old motherboard, but I would like to keep it going, and make the best of it for another year or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and would help two other users!
    Symptoms:
    Minor stability and performance issues, mostly in games, simulators, or doing high resolution photographics processing. I bought three machines with similar specs in 2002, for my brother, father, and myself. Each has had some hard to nail down, intermittent problems. My brother's PC has had a new motherboard and processor after failure of the KT3, but still has some niggling problems. He also has an XP 2600+ running at 65C !
    More recently I have been able to reliably reproduce graphics problems in Empire Earth II, Serious Sam, and Halo. Specifically, I can create the problem in an Empire Earth II game by running a saved game and looking at a specific spot on the map. The screen shows tearing, and eventually goes black, returning to normal dispaly when I move to a different part of the map. In certain Halo games I could cause the problem by looking in a specific direction. I assume this is because what is being displayed is using different or more graphics processing features, although it is not apparent what they may be from the content of the view.
    Being able to reliably reproduce the problem allowed me to actually analyse the cause.
    Diagnosis:
    After upgrading all drivers, and trying everything I could think of, as well as everything I could find on the web, especially in this forum, I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply. The clincher for me is that when I create the problem the 3.3Volt power supply line (rail) drops to as low as 2.45Volts! The +5V line also fluctuates and drops as low as 4.81Volt. This was measured using MBM5 and MBM5 Log. The usual voltages reported by MBM5 at idle are +3.3V rail = 2.99 to 3.01 Volt, +5V rail = 4.92 to 4.95 Volt.
    Okay, so the +5V rail stays in spec (just), but the +3.3V rail is out of spec (+/- 5%) even at idle. It should be at least 3.135Volt.
    I checked the voltages with and without the problem using an analogue volt meter, as software voltage readings are often low. The volt meter is a little slow to respond to the voltage fluctuations, but did confirm that at idle the +3.3V rail was less than 3.1Volt (out of spec), and with the problem occuring, dropped at least to 2.8Volt.
    As you can see below my power supply should be able to handle all I throw at it. Topower isn't the greatest brand, but it does receive "satisfactory" in reviews on Tom's Hardware and such. I suspect it (and my brother's and father's) has always been weak, although age, or more powerful games may be highlighting the problem.
    Solution:
    Get a new power supply.
    Not so simple these days, particularly if you want to upgrade in the future, with the move to powering components using the 12Volt rail. I want a power supply that will power my current +3.3V and +5V hungry motherboard, plus future 12V requirements, if possible. So I am doing a Power Audit of my PC, hence . . .
    Questions:
    I have collected power requirements for most of my components in Ampere by supply voltage. However, details are hard to lock down. I'll jump straight into specific questions.
    1. The Athlon XP 2100+ draws a maximum of 89.9Watts into the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM), which converts it to the CPU supply voltage of 1.75Volt. (About 51Amps. Ouch!) If this is sourced from the +12V rail as suggested by the AMD Athlon Desktop Builders Guide, then this would be 7.49Amp, and would not effect the +3.3V and +5V rails unless the total power capacity of the supply is being exceeded. However, the CPU power source was changed from the +3.3V and +5V lines to the +12V lines around the time of the XP2100+. I don't know what MSI did on my motherboard.
    Can anyone confirm which voltage rail is used to power the XP 2100+ on the KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard?
    2. I have found average power usages for motherboards of around 25 Watt on many web sites, but can't confirm the power used by the KT3. Does anyone know the maximum current (Amps) for each voltage rail from the power supply for this motherboard?
    3. Memory power requirements also vary a lot on the web. I'm using 10Watt each on the +3.3V rail for two sticks of 512MB DDR Corsair. Can anybody confirm this, for the KT3? (10W per stick seems to have been the standard since 128MB sticks came out!)
    4. I have a GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP graphics card. (Okay, it's not an MSI, but the power should be similar across brands.) There are several threads that suggest that this card uses lots of +3.3V and +5V power from the AGP slot. (Wonkanoby?) However, none give actual Amps for each rail. Anybody know?
    5. In case anybody knows, I can't find actual power for an Audigy 2 ZS either. Any suggestions?
    As modern power supplies tend to have reduced +3.3V and +5V capacity in favour of +12V, I need to be pretty sure of the actual requirements on these rails before buying a new supply. I could just "go and by the biggest Antec I can find and don't worry about it", but I might find that it has the same problems my existing one does.
    All help greatly appreciated. Selection of a new PSU could fix three PCs, mine, my brother's, and my father's.
    PS: My apologies to those I told that this was a great power supply. Well, it has great specs, and the problems observed couldn't be tied to it until recently. Bummer really.
    PPS: Sorry for the long post, but it's an interesting, and important topic, isn't it?
    UPDATE: See post on 1st March, 2006 for response from vendors and updated table of component requirements.
    Here is a copy of my signature in case I change it in the future, just for context.
    MSI KT3 Ultra ARU (MS-6380E V1.0),  AMI BIOS 5.7
    AMD Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino 1.73GHz @13 x 133 FSB
    2x Corsair CMX-512-3000C2 512MB 2-2-2-5-1T @333MHz
    Leadtek GeForce4 Ti 4600 Winfast A250 Ultra MyVIVO 128MB (AGP)
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
    2x WD Caviar WD1200JB 120GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache,
              each drive enclosed in a Scythe Silent Box Heatlane HDD Enclosure
    CD&DVD Plextor PX320A & Pioneer DVR-A09P
    Topower PSU 470W PFC 3.3+5V=235W +3.3V/26A, +5V/47A, +12V/28A
    mCubed T-Balancer Fan Controller,
              multiple quiet fans: Zalman, SilenX, Panaflo, Lian Li blower
    Zalman CNPS6000-Cu & ZM-NB32J NB HS
    ~ 10-20C over ambient
    Lian-Li PC-60 Case, WinXP ProSP2+

    Try the link below, this will tell you what you need. After you added all you hardware and get the final power result add 50% to this and you will have the proper size P/S needed for your system. You can even make a list of future upgrades you want to do and that way you can see what P/S will work for you now in the present and what you would need in the future, just remember to add 50% to what ever total you add up.
    For example, if the P/S calculator says you have a total draw of 279W then you would add 50% to this;
    279+50%=418.5
    http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
    Below I have pasted a piece that I made for determing P/S which may help you to;
    Resets are a P/S issue and lock-ups are most likely due to your graphic card, with that said I will give you a table with which you can determine the proper P/S for your system and a little info just for info.
    I must also add that never trust software to tell you your voltages, this includes the BIOs as the BIOs is just a piece of software. To properly check the voltage one must use a digi-VOM.
    A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
    HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
    Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
    Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
    Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
    Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
    Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
    Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
    This is the formula: P = E x I
    P - Watt (power)
    E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
    I – Amperage (current flow)
    Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
    The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
    So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
    MB=20W
    CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
    HD=20W
    CDRW=25W
    DVD=20W
    Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
    RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
    Network Card 5 Watts
    Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
    Total around 200W for this example.
    Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
    Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

  • KT3 Ultra Always Hang

    I bought my KT3 Ultra in June, ever since then I never enjoy my new system AT ALL. I am having so many problems over it. First, it cant detect my liteon 16x10x40x cdrw. Then, the most annoying problem is that whenever I drag my windows it will freeze the wondows then after a few click of mouse, the whole system hang!!!!
    I have tried to flashed the bios, install the latest VIA chipset and even changed a new graphic card(i first thought it was graphic card prob). But it is still the same result I got. I am now so feddup with it. I tried to go for warranty, and when it is back it is still the same problem over and over. I am so frustrated now. Anyone can help me please???
    Duron 1Ghz
    256Mb Kingmax DDR RAM ( x2 )
    ATI RAdeon 7500
    Sound Blaster Audigy DE
    40gb Maxtor Harddisk
    Liteon 16x10x40x cdrw
    Liteon DVD rom

    I have a similar problem with my KT3 Ultra aru RAID
    I´we found the problem to be the memory, I had a Kingmax 256MB 333Mhz stick... everything OK.
    then I added a second Kingmax stick and I got stuck with the same problems as you are having.
    So I took back the kingmax and changed it to a A-data
    Stick and got the same result, so yesterday I got fed up with this  and got a SAMSUNG 512Mb 333Mhz stick and sold the Kingmax for 30€ (almost free)
    I still got the same problem but I´m going to throw in a clean install of windows and I´m quite sure this will fix the problem.
    My advice to everyone NEWER by KINGMAX. :O

  • MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU video lock-ups

    Hello,
        I have a 3 month old MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU.  I am running Windows XP Professional and I am having a periodic lock-up where the screen will show blinking colored blocks and the system will freeze.  Sometimes just hitting reset will cure the problem.  Other times, hitting reset will create two vertical stripes of colored blocks scrolling down the screen.  I have used the board on two entirely separate systems (One with AMD Athlon 2000+, Gainward GeForce 4200, 512 MB Samsung 2700 DDR, Western Digital Expert HD (tried both IDE #1 and RAID controller) (Other System, Athlon 1800+, a different Gainward Geforce 4200, 256 Crucial 2700 DDR, an older Maxtor hard drive).  In either system, every once in a while, the system will freeze as described above (it has happened in Netscape 7.0, Microsoft Word 2000, America's Army game).  
         I have played around with the bios settings, reformatted hard drives, tried various revisions of the nvidia display drivers, swapped out video cards, etc.  Any ideas?  Do I have a bad board?  Do I need to flash the BIOS?  If the board is bad, what do I need to do to return it?
    Thanks,
    Matt Gumaer

    The second system has a 330 watt enermax power supply.  With the new system I put together, I put virtually the same board (MSI KT3 Ultra 2 with bluetooth and RAID), everything is the same as my first system (except the KT3 Ultra-ARU) and the stability is fine.  So, I'm reasonably confident its not the power supply.

  • KT3 Ultra 2R + Barton 3000+

    Hi all..
    Hope someone can help.
    I have a KT3 Ultra 2R board with the following stats:
    Athlon XP (Barton) 3000+ FSB 166 CPU
    CoolerMaster HHC-001 heatpipe H/sink with 80mm fan
    Antec 520W PSU
    2 x 100 ATA Maxtor Viper 80Gb HDD's with 8Mb cache each in striped RAID array
    Asus TI 4600 Ultra 128Mb V/card
    Audigy S/card
    Lite-on CD/RW
    Lite-on CD/DVD
    2 x 512Mb Corsair XMS 3000 DDR Ram (333 and above) with aluminium heat spreaders
    Lian-Li PC70 Tower case with 6 x 80mm fans
    Rounded cables throughout
    Win XP + SP1
    The Problem:
    This system worked fine with an Athlon XP 2200 CPU and I read MSI's CPU support list and saw the KT3 Ultra 2 6380E supported the Barton XP 3000+ CPU's so I bought one.  :P
    At first I had trouble booting on the 5.7 version bios, with the lock ups throught the bootup process. I reset the bois to the defaults and slowly worked up the settings using the recommendations in the forums.
    At the moment, the system will boot up with fast command set to normal, no agressive DDR timings, 1T command disabled, fastwrite disabled, agp read/write disabled and SDRAM set to SPD (HCLK).
    My 3DMark01 & 3DMark03 scores are lower than when I had the XP 2200 CPU installed and the SiSoft sandra results are the equivalent of a Athlon 2000. MSI says the board supports the Barton 3000+, but at what cost ???  :O
    The system is very unstable and and requires on average 3 boots to boot up successfully. The 3DMark03 test often locks up mid way.
    Any help or the settings MSI or you used to achieve their results would be VERY helpful. Please Help... ;(

    I have had a similar problem running my kt3 ultra2 (non raid) at 166 fsb. In mid april I bought a 2600+ 166 fsb athlon to upgrade my system from a 1.2 ghz athlon. I bought some new pc2700 crucial ram to go along with the processor. I had also recently bought a radeon 9700 pro in late march, and a 1.2 athlon would just be a waste of this great vid card. I had been running fine with the radeon and the 1.2 athlon with the msi 5.7 bios and 4.43 via 4-in-1's.
    I battled this problem for weeks. I bought a new antec 550 watt PSU, corsair xms 3200 ram, and new antec tower case trying to find out if the problem was ram, power or heat. I should also note that turning on spread spectrum helped a little in stability. Setting it to .50% made it stable in windows and games, but the computer would not turn on if shutdown unless I cleared the cmos. No setting besides this had any effect on stability. Even conservative ram timings. I was about to buy an Asus a7n8x when I realized that I had once run my old cpu and ram at 166 fsb when I had the 5.6 bios a couple of months back. I did not keep it like that in fear of damaging the ram while overclocked.
    So I reflashed to 5.6 which still supported the 2600+. That finally worked almost perfectly, although I still have to keep spread spectrum at .25% to be stable (which is odd, people say that is supposed to hurt stability). So in my situation, it was the bios that was faulty. I have had some very ramdom crashes to the desktop (3 of them) in games and one hardlock with a blank bluescreen in unreal2. This is over a span of a month. So it is not perfect. It might be the display drivers causing this, which I have recently upgraded, or I might need to back off my ram timings which are at 2-2-2-5 which this ram can handle easily at 166. 3dmark has yet to crash. Prime 95 passed when I ran it for 30 minutes. Im going to run prime 95 today and see if it will run for like 12 hours stable. Im still looking into getting a new nforce 2 mobo, however (abit or asus).
    I hope this helps your situation, you should give it a try. Although, the 5.6 bios does not support the 3000+. It might still work, it will maybe just not show up as a 3000+ in the bios, but as a 2.17 Athlon XP.
    I think MSI should be made aware of this possible 5.7 bios fsb instability. Why spread spectrum seems to be related in my situation, is really odd also.

  • KT3 Ultra Aru xp2400?

    Hi
    I have been building my new PC for the last few month now it need 1 part a cpu. will the new AMD xp2400 be compaterble with my MSI KT3 Ultra Aru v1.0?
    if not what is the highest cpu it will take
    Thanks in Advance
    Widowmaker  
    KT3 Ultra Aru
    Coolermaster 200ATCS case
    Gainward GeForce 4 4600 with firewire card
    ocz 256 mb ddr400 (samsung)
    Maxtor 133 40gb hdd x 2
    DigiDoc5 (black)
    Yamaha cd-rw (t@2)
    thermaltake volcano 7+
    AMD xp?????

    I wish MSI would post something about the new Athlons XP's.  I would think that they should have a few of the processors already.  Every review sight seems to have thier hands on one.  I did see in the bios updates that they posted a BIOS update for the KT3 Ultra-C on 8/26/02 that says it adds support for the XP 2400+
    I have never seen this board anywhere though.  I have seen other motherboard manufactures have BIOS updates for them already.  This is my first time buying an MSI board and I hope that they get on the ball about this or it may be my last MSI board.  I guess I won't start to worry to much until I can actually find a 2400 to buy, but it would be nice to here something from MSI.  If my KT3 Ultra2-R won't support the new processors then I can buy a 2200+ now and end my wait.

  • Kt3 Ultra-aru Processor Speeds?

    Hi There,
        I'm running the MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU (MS-6380E v1.X) with an AMD Athlon XP 2000, I was just wondering what Athlon XP processor speeds this supports upto, and if possible what changes I might need to make to the Bios, Would I need to flash my board with a new Bios or just go into my Bios and change some settings.
    Thanks for any help, just trying to get ready for Doom 3 and Halflife 2 if they ever appear  
    Cheers,
    Paul.

    But there is no guaranty, that a FSB333 AthlonXP will work. The largest CPU that is allowed from MSI is a 2600+ FSB266.
    But the chance is pretty high, that a FSB333 Athlon will work, though. It did so on mine KT3 Ultra.
    sj

  • KT3- Ultra aru board (ms-6380e series) processor question

    Ok i'm running a msi kt3 ultra aru motherboard with bios version 5.7
    looking at the cpu charts i'm slightly confused. What I'm wondering is can I run an athlon 3000 processor on this board? I know its going to raise the bus speed up but I'm running pc2700 ram right now so I dont see that being a problem.
    anyone either running a newer processor on this board, or who would know the answer, it would be appreciated....
    thx!

    You guys rock. Thanks for the feedback. haven't made the purchase yet, got a friend that manages a compusa thats supposed to be getting me a deal, we'll see I guess....
    THANKS AGAIN!!!

  • Kt3 ultra-aru multiplier prob

    I just bought a new MSI kt3 ultra-aru from newegg and a new athlon xp 1900+(1.6ghz) and i unlocked it but the board wont boot with the new multiplier, so i thought the proc was not unlock so i try my old tbird which has already been unlocked and it does not work either, help Plz

    Quote
    Originally posted by WaltC
    Quote
    Originally posted by Shamael
    Hello
    I've got the same kind of problem with my MSI KT3 Ultra (no RAID).
    Setting any multiplier below 9 would make the system unable to boot. I need to clear CMOS to be able reboot.
    Setting the multiplier to 9 or above: no problem.
    My CPU is an Athlon 1400 and its L1 bridges are "factory unlocked".
    How could I fix this issue?
    Many thanks.
    Not that this may help, but years ago I had an old Pentium 2 that had its multiplier locked when going above its default, but unlocked when going below its default multiplier.  It came this way from the factory. Pretty good FSB overclocker, btw.... :]   Later I found that Intel had changed this and subsequent P2's came from the factory locked in both directions.
    Might it be that the cpu is not as "unlocked" as you've been led to believe?  Just a thought.  A way to prove this one way or the other I think would be to try it in another motherboard.
    Well, I don't think this is the same kind of issue because I used this Athlon 1400 with any multiplier on an ABIT KT7A before buying this MSI KT3.

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    This seems to be the #1 complaint for the kt3-ultra series. I'd too like to find a way(without mods) to get the voltage past 1.6 on my tbredA. I heard they may be releasing a new bios(at least for my ultra2) but I doubt it'll affect the voltage adjustments. It'll Probably just have a few bug fixes and barton support.

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    My sig has everything I know about my computer.
    I usually at 47 deg CPU and 42 System
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    Sometimes i am AFK and it will be locked up when I come
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    Help ah.  What else can I check??
    Thanks for any help.

    You can have a look at my hardware below...
    Chassis: Antec 1080B (300w PSU / 180w COMBINED)
    Mainboard: MSI KT3 Ultra ARU
    CPU: AMD Athlon XP 1800+
    Display: ABIT Siluro GF4 Ti4200 AGP 4X
    DVD/CD-RW Combo: HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4120B
    Floppy: Panasonic 1.44MB
    HD: Quantum Fireball Plus/AS 30.0GB UDMA 100
    Keyboard: Microsoft Internet Keyboard Pro
    Monitor: KDS Visual Sensations VS-190
    Mouse: Microsoft USB Wheel Mouse Optical
    NICs: 3Com 3C900B / DLink DFE-530TX
    RAM: Micron DDR 266MHz (2x256MB DIMMs)
    Sound: Avance AC'97 Audio
    I'm having similar problems where my system becomes very unstable at higher bus speeds. However, I have ordered a new PSU today as a solution to this problem. Basically, CPUs and video cards are much more demanding and the more devices you have in your computer the more power you're going to need. I recommend purchasing the Enermax EG465P-VE (FCA) 450W ATX PS. It has a higher amperage rating and will most likely solve your problem.

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