Lightroom 4 on Windows 7 32-bit, performance?

I'm using an HP 32-bit dual-core PC, Windows 7, 4 GB RAM. Yes, I know, I should upgrade to a 64-bit computer but it's just not in the cards right now. Lightroom 3.6 performs reasonably well, well enough for me at least. I tried the Lightroom 4 beta, and it was really quite sluggish. And, it might be my imagination, but it seemed to even affect Lightroom 3. When I removed the beta Lightroom 3 "seemed" to improve in performance.
I like the new version of Lightroom, but I'm seeing horror stories and am concerned about performance. All of my cameras have full support in Lightroom 3. I get satisfactory results. And none of my reading so far has sold me on switching to the new version. Yes, I know, the new process is far superior. But from my evaluation it is not so superior as to justify sluggish performance. Is anyone using Lightroom 4 on a computer with similar specs as mine? If so, what are your experiences. In the meantime, I will just "suffer" as I continue to use Lightroom 3.6.

Judy,
Thanks for clarifying, and I'm inclined to agree with you: Your previous PV2010 workflow is invalid in PV2012, ruined if you will...
But at least you have acknowledged it, which is step 0. Accepting it is step 1...
Trying to map PV2010 skills 1-1 into PV2012 is a recipe for frustration.
PV2012 controls are quite unlike any other editor I've ever used (including Lightroom 3).
They have image-adaptability, and some intelligence: they don't always do the same thing all the time.
So yes:
1. Unlearn everything you know about PV2010.
2. Learn PV2012.
In a nutshell:
For normal photos:
* exposure sets midtone level, not highlight level (highlights will usually be too bright, initially, when exposure is set correctly).
* contrast sets midtone separation
* -highlights to keep highlights from being too bright.
* +shadows to keep shadows from being too dim.
* -blacks & +whites for full dynamic range.
For unusual photos:
-whites to keep highlights from being too bright.
+blacks to keep shadows from being too dim.
For all other photos:
A combination of the above...
PS: positive highlights together with negative shadows is typically reserved for:
* Unusual raw cases, when you want a flatter look (you want to suppress tonal detail / contrast), or
* Tweaking already baked jpegs.
Same-signed highlights & shadows values usually means you have exposure set wrong.
Cheers,
Rob

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    Lionel

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