Lightroom Exposure Control

Can I use LRs exposure control slider for the same function as it is used in my camera? I'd like to get additional shots but only have a -3, 0 and a +3 on the camera. I'm doing some photos in High Definition Imaging and want to increase the number if shots I put together with the HDL software...

There's a long story here, but the bottom line is -3 to +3 is plenty, and doing what you are proposing won't work nearly as well as doing it in-camera.

Similar Messages

Exposure control errors when recording videos with...

I noticed that when I record videos, the exposure sometimes is not adjusted properly. If lighting conditions change, exposure remains at the same level, and records became over or underexposed. This is especially noticeable outdoors.
I have a few minutes long sample recording where the recording starts normally, then as light conditions change, (I slowly move from a shady area to a lit area) exposure gradually degrades to a point where most of the recording "burns out" due to extreme overexposure ( about 80% of the picture is white).
What confuses me is when I tried to reproduce this problem (albeit it different lighting conditions), exposure control worked pretty good.
I wonder if these exposure problems are due to a bug, hardware problem or a device limitation.
Do you have any tips to get better recordings with the phone?
Nokia Lumia 520 3046.0000.1329.2001 RM-914
Nokia Asha 302 V15.09 22-05-13 RM-813

The phone runs the latest firmware (3.36) available currently. There are no image-related changes mentioned in the 3.36 changelog though.
Nokia Lumia 520 3046.0000.1329.2001 RM-914
Nokia Asha 302 V15.09 22-05-13 RM-813

Regional exposure control

Hi - I have several photos where, with Exposure at the default, the image is good except for
some way too bright highlights. If I reduce the Exposure control to the minimum, these highlights
are good, but of course the rest of the image is very dark. Using Highlights/Shadows/Recovery
does not give good results. Dodge doesn't work for this either.
Is there some way to use different Exposure settings in various parts of the image? I think
Brushes would do this, but there is no option to use Brushes for controls in the Exposure
brick. Any ideas?
-Wayne

Thanks for the reply William. Yes, one would expect that Dodge should do this
for me. These are images made in a church with clear glass French type windows.
At "normal" exposure, the crossbar window dividers completely disappear, as does
any detail around the window casing.
Reducing the Exposure control to a min. will give enough detail to make these
acceptable (tho not great). Using Dodge/Burn will not do as good a job. Neither
will Highlights or Recovery. They help a bit, but not as good as the Exposure
control. Doesn't make sense, does it. I haven't tried Curves, but it looks like you
can brush that, so I'll play with it.
-Wayne

Next generation exposure control

In another thread I made a comment how the controls and interfaces on today's DSLRs are still firmly rooted in the analog age. On this occasion I wanted to start a discussion about how exposure controls should ideally work on a modern computerised DSLR.
Let's summarize the current state, we have P/Av/Tv/M to choose from, one or two wheels that control time or aperture depending on the mode we are in, then there's ISO which can be set manually by using the menu or extra buttons or, with restrictions, automatically, and exposure compensation, which also doesn't always work (e.g. doesn't affect auto ISO in M).
Obviously ISO, the third parameter besides time and aperture that controls the exposure, is still a second-rate citizen, otherwise we would have 8 insteaed of 4 major shooting modes, ISO auto/manual * time auto/manual * aperture auto/manual.
So how about three switches or buttons to toggle each individually from auto to manual?
Or how about three wheels, that each control one of these three parameters and toggle auto/manual with a click?
That way in full manual I have full control over all three; if all three are in manual, there's no exposure compensation; as soon as I switch one of the three to automatic, it becomes free to control exposure compensation!
And if two are in automatic and one in manual then one of the wheels whose parameter is on auto can be used for exposure compensation, and the other to control the bias of the automatic because in this scenario the automatic has two values under its control, so there are many combinations that are valid, and I'd like to tell the automatic whether to prefer large apertures or higher ISOs, for example.

RichLavigne wrote:
well thought out
Thanks. Just noticed that I forgot to include freely configurable limits for all the parameters that are chosen automatically, preferably focal-length and IS dependent...

Exposure control vs. Brightness control

Could someone explain the difference between the exposure control (slider) and the brightness control. They both seem to move the histogram in similar manners.
And if there is a difference should one always correct for WB first, then exposure, then brightness?
Or Exposure first then WB?
Thanks!

Exposure adjusts the full tonal range while the brightness control adjusts the mid tones without clipping the highlights and shadows.
It is good practice to get the exposure/brightness correct before making color corrections including wb.

Photoshop's brightness and exposure controls?

Can anyone explain the difference(s) between Photoshop's brightness control and its exposure control?
Thanks,
Mark

Did it ever occur to you to consult the documentation, Mark. Say, the User Guide and/or the Help files?
Exposure command
Adjusts tonality by performing calculations in a linear color space. Exposure is primarily for use in HDR images. See Adjust Exposure for HDR image.
Adjust Exposure for HDR images
Comments (0)
The Exposure adjustment is designed for making tonal adjustments to HDR images, but it works with 8‑bit and 16‑bit images. Exposure works by performing calculations in a linear color space (gamma 1.0) rather than the current color space.
1. Do one of the following:
Click the Exposure icon or an Exposure preset in the Adjustments panel.
Choose Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Exposure.
Note: You can also choose Image > Adjustments > Exposure. But keep in mind that this method makes direct adjustments to the image layer and discards image information. Adjustment layers for 32-bit images are available in Photoshop Extended only.
2. In the Adjustments panel, set any of the following options:
Exposure
Adjusts the highlight end of the tonal scale with minimal effect in the extreme shadows.
Offset
Darkens the shadows and midtones with minimal effect on the highlights.
Gamma
Adjusts the image gamma, using a simple power function. Negative values are mirrored around zero (that is, they remain negative but still get adjusted as if they are positive).
The eyedroppers adjust the luminance values of images (unlike the Levels eyedroppers that affect all color channels).
The Set Black Point eyedropper sets the Offset, shifting the pixel you click to zero.
The Set White Point eyedropper sets the Exposure, shifting the point you click to white (1.0 for HDR images).
The Midtone eyedropper sets the Exposure, making the value you click middle gray.
=== === ===
Apply the Brightness/Contrast adjustment
Comments (0)
The Brightness/Contrast adjustment lets you make simple adjustments to the tonal range of an image. Moving the brightness slider to the right increases tonal values and expands image highlights, to the left decreases values and expands shadows. The contrast slider expands or shrinks the overall range of tonal values in the image.
In normal mode, Brightness/Contrast applies proportionate (nonlinear) adjustments to image layer, as with Levels and Curves adjustments. When Use Legacy is selected, Brightness/Contrast simply shifts all pixel values higher or lower when adjusting brightness. Since this can cause clipping or loss of image detail in highlight or shadow areas, using Brightness/Contrast in Legacy mode is not recommended for photographic images (but can be useful for editing masks or scientific imagery).
Note: Use Legacy is automatically selected when editing Brightness/Contrast adjustment layers created with previous versions of Photoshop.
1. Do one of the following:
Click the Brightness/Contrast icon in the Adjustments panel.
Choose Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Brightness/Contrast. Click OK in the New Layer dialog box.
Note: You can also choose Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast. But keep in mind that this method makes direct adjustments to the image layer and discards image information.
2. In the Adjustments panel, drag the sliders to adjust the brightness and contrast.
Dragging to the left decreases the level, and dragging to the right increases it. The number at the right of each slider reflects the brightness or contrast value. Values can range from ‑150 to +150 for Brightness, ‑50 to +100 for Contrast.

Camera needs exposure controls - badly

I've scanned this forum and haven't seen any messages that are wondering where the iPhones exposure controls are.
As we all know, the iPhone does a great job of taking images when there is plenty of light on the subject. But if you shoot an environment with a contrasting backlight, the foreground subject is simply a silhouette.
It would be a very simple matter to increase exposure time to better illuminate foreground subjects in these sorts of scenarios. Yes, it MAY require the user to hold the phone extra steady while the shot is taken (or, if the sensor has ISO type controls, it could simply bump up the ISO which would increase noise in the shot but it would be sharp).
Apple - please give us a few manual override presets we can activate with a single touch when needed, or better still an exposure slider. It would increase the usefulness of the camera.
thanks!
(and yes, I am sending this to feedback, I am just curious how others feel about this)

Interesting replies. Not what I expected, but thanks just the same. To address some of the replies, in no particular order:
- the purpose of the iPhone is to eliminate duplicity of gadgets. I just want the camera in the iPhone to work a wee bit better than it does now.
- the sensor inside the iPhone is capable of taking better pictures under something less than ideal conditions. If a simple exposure slider would fix this, I fail to see how this would be 'stupid'.
- I don't expect 'award winning' images from an iPhone. I would like to be able to see a persons face if taking the image where the light isn't concentrated on the subject. All of the dirt cheap and most basic point and shoot cameras do this. Its just software to control the sensors sensitivity.
- I'm a professional photographer, I have plenty of cameras. The iPhone could never be a substitute for any of them. But I do know the camera can do a better job, with a simple software tweak. Thats all I am asking for.
- I'm aware that this is a user to user forum, and I've already mentioned sending this to feedback. I said this in my initial post. But its clear that I'm in the minority on the desire for the camera to improve with a simple software update. No biggie.

Exposure Control setting for HDR

I know RAW can contain multiple exposures within the format, but when taking RAW images, when shooting for HDR what should the exposure range be set to 3 photos or 5 photos and;
-0.5 to + 0.5 EV ?
- 1EV to +1 EV ?
-2 EV to +2 EV ?

Depends also if you are using the new Adobe Camera RAW or the new Lightroom (6) or CC2015.
The newest software has some fantastic new ways of combining for HDR. With the new ACR and Lightroom, I have found that 2 to 4 images depending on the dynamic range of the scene, will work well. I have gotten fantastic results with 2 images in the new software, compared to doing the same HDR in the older versions of Photoshop. Just make sure that YOU expose for the highlights in one image and then for the shadows in the other. If you are letting your camera do the AEB, auto exposure bracketing, then try 2 stops. However if you see your three images either too dark or too light (highlights blown in both or shadows dark in both, then try adjusting the settings. Hope that makes sense

Hot key assignment for exposure control

Hi
I'm running 100s - 1000's of sequentially exposed images in LR and as a finishing step I'm ajusting exposure (+/_ 1/3 step) to various images in the quick develop module. Can I assign hot keys to these controls? Do they aready exist?
Thanks!

I can't find standard key shortcuts that work in Quick Develop. But if you go into Develop and click on the word "Exposure" in the Basic panel, you can then use the + and - keys to adjust Exposure in small increments, and shift/+ and shift/- to use larger increments, then use the right arrow key to move to the next image - so the Exposure slider retains the keyboard focus. The . (dot) and , (comma) keys step this keyboard focus up and down through the various sliders.
Or, if you specifically want to use Quick Develop for its relative adjustment behaviour (for example, across several images highlighted) you might check out something like this:
http://photographers-toolbox.com/products/keyboardtamer.php
or there's one called RPG Keys with the option of a separate keypad or similar (though I don't know whether either meets your specific requirement)
or more radically, this:
https://sites.google.com/site/dorfl68/

Exposure control in Vision Builder AI

Hello,
is there any way of adjusting the exposure time and/or gain of a NI17xx camera programmatically ??

Hi Borst
Yes, you can set the value in vision builder. check the links for help http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/epd/p/id/6319 and http://digital.ni.com/public.nsf/allkb/2B9B31A6E53A8D2586257673006482B5
Sasi.
Certified LabVIEW Associate Developer
If you can DREAM it, You can DO it - Walt Disney

Exposure control effecting Lumiance

Have others requested from Apple, that the Exposure slider effect lumiance only and not increase Saturation at the same time. Justs seems to me that exposure should be seperated from saturation especially since the Saturation slider is just below.
I find that there are at times some colorful objects in the scene that do not need any satuation but could benefit from the exposure being moved up. I know the work arounds.
Just thought Id ask to see if anyone else is bugged by this. Oh ACR 4.1 also does this so Apple is not alone. Just hoping that Apple will do it Right.
David

It's pretty much part of working in RGB.
Ian

Using Lightroom to control camera remotely

Hello:
I want to setup my camera, Nikon D5100, for pole aerial photography. I want to have the ability to connect my laptop to the camera up on the pole so I can adjust zoom, etc.
Can I achieve this with Lightroom?
Thanks in advance.

Helen,
Look on this website for instructions. I read one place on the web that LR 3.5 (but no earlier version) supports your camera for tethering, but the Adobe site doesn't show it in the list, so it might not work for you.
Make sure your camera is in P2P mode, not Mass Storage. Go to File/Tethered Capture/Start Tethered Capture.
Hal

Lightroom 4 adjustment brush has little effect

I am using Lightroom 4 because my Mac is on OSX 10.6.8. As I use it today I'm seeing that the adjustment brush is having little effect. I'm trying to bring areas in shadow up a bit, but there's almost no change. The images shows what should be creating a substantial adjustment and it's almost invisible. Even retroactively sliding the exposure control fully up does just about nothing. Similar lack of effectiveness with other controls, like Contrast. The images are DNG converted/imported from NEF (Nikon D7000) by Lightroom. I have reset, relaunched and restarted. Suggestions?

Yes, thank you. I actually figured it out and was having difficulty deleting my post. Thanks again.

Strange behavior of Lightroom diagram.

Lightroom histogram has a list of issues, such as dragging performance and tiny size. We wrote several threads about these issues in Pixmantec forums. In many cases the indication of this diagram seems wrong. Take a look at this case:
http://www.pbase.com/phototalk_thh/lightroom1_strange_diagram
A small change of Exposure from 0.0 to -0.14 changes the shape of histogram in a dramatic fashion.
Needless to say, RawShooter histogram, which should have been taken as an example for a well behaving and well performing implementation, does not expose such behavior. And by the way: What is precisely the difference of "Exposure" versus "Brightness" in Lightroom anyway?
Thomas

Thanks for the reply. Change in scale it is, not in shape, as you correctly state.
But I think that you are wrong in the rest. This is a pure speculation that LR "multiplies data with 2^(exposure)," and even than your claim does not have merit. Exponential curve does not have "sudden jumps." It is continuous.
A reverse claim that the stable, well implemented ' Exposure' control in RawShooter "is less well behaving" appears to be a travesty. Due all the respect, have you been using RawShooter? The controls of RawShooter are not 1:1 transferable on LR. Roughly speaking, "Highlight Contrast" in RawShooter has a function very similar to Recovery in LR, except that the contract can be set in both directions. LR Blacks works almost like a combination of RSP "black point" and some level of Shadow Contrast, but in LR darks tends to do its usable setup in a tiny fraction of its range, whereas RSP black point allows to be very precise in its dosage. All this is atop of instant response in RSP, and a delay of 1-2sec and a jerky reaction in LR. Similarly the Tint in LR has its usable adjustment range in a fraction of its scale ("bad behaving"), unless you like to have all magenta or all green image.
There are a few really better behaving controls or algorithms in LR indeed: I think that the "Fill Light" in Lightroom is clearly vastly superior to RawShooter, which tends to affect hue values very quickly. I also like the dealing with skin tones in LR. The Vibrance algorithm seem to have been decisively improved, leads to better saturation without getting this over colored artificial look, which can happen in RawShooter.
Not so the LR exposure/recovery/blacks, compared to RSP exposure/shadow/highlight contrast, in conjunction with RSP curve sliders and curve adjustment. It does not come from lack of trying, but in all these months in many cases I simply still cannot get the job done with Lightroom, and I tend to revert to RawShooter for all older cameras.
Currently I learn LightZone, it is an intriguing tool, with some really fresh ideas and a good attempt to model properties of our human perception. Speaking of blacks and shadows, this is one area in which LightZone allows to specify selectively shadows, and lighten up, while preserving black in black elements. But, this is a fully different story...

Meaning of Calibration Numbers (Exposure)

In development mode, when I move the slider, a white number changes to the right of the slider. In fact there are numbers to the right of all the controls. I've read a number of books on Lightroom, but have not seen an explanation of what these scales are. One book, did speak in terms of camera stops when referring to exposure--is that what this number represents? So does 1.33 equals 1.33 stops of increased exposure (when the slider is moved to the right)?
What about all the other controls? Is there are resource that explains these metrics?
Thanks
Jack Siegel

The exposure control is measured in stops (or at least the equivalent of stops, it doesn't actually change the "real" exposure, just pushes it to the left or right) you can see the effect on the histogram , the others go from 1 to 100 and are just the least to the most the effect can have so basically a percentage of the total amount of the effect.

Lightroom Exposure Control

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for