Look here!

this is not really a question,.. more of a mac nugget. if you click the time machine app icon while having garage band as your front application, you can access different thingys like the normal time machine on finder. i dun know how to show it but if any one like to have me to send the png file to you kindly ask and tell me if this is not a system error of any sort.
hope i hear good news.

Try viewing the cases at the Apple online store...
Each case has a rating, reviews and pictures.
Also, search these forums for "Nano cases". There are many, many threads with this topic, and you are sure to find a good few reviews.
P.S Try not to duplicate posts.

Similar Messages

  • If you can't get your Iphone to sync or show up in itunes look here!!!!!!!

    FOUND THE ANSWER!!
    Apparently when you plug your iPhone in to your computer, Windows will "sometimes" install the drivers as a camera, putting them in the wrong place. This is why it will pop up in Windows so you can take photos off, but iTunes can't see it. SO, what you have to do is move the driver file (USBAAPL.SYS) to the correct location. Follow the directions I found below & your iTunes should be fixed (worked for me):
    What works is to just force the drivers on what windows thinks is a camera, i.e. to ‘update’ the device to use the correct driver. There are some hints on how to do this already listed on this forum, but I’ll try to give some more detailed information:
    1. First off you need to have iTunes installed and the ipod touch plugged in
    and recognized as ‘something’ e.g. digital camera (it shouldn’t really
    matter what it’s recognized as, but it needs to be found by windows).
    2. Search for usbaapl in the C:\WINDOWS system folder:
    o open windows explorer (e.g. Right-click Start and then click ‘explore’)
    o right-click the WINDOWS folder and select ‘Search’).
    o type in usbaapl and hit Search – try to ignore the dog!
    You should find the driver info in a sub folder of
    C:\WINDOWS\system32\DRVSTORE e.g. C:\WINDOWS\system32\DRVSTORE\usbaapl_A65621D65F5B7 507DD7B22331826547BDD2D206B
    Remember that location (either leave the search box open or copy the folder
    name into note pad – you’ll need it later)
    If you don’t find usbaapl.sys, usbaapl.inf etc. then your drivers have not
    been installed with the iTunes install and you’ll have to reinstall iTunes.
    3. Locate the ipod-camera device:
    o Open the device manager, e.g. using Start > Control Panel >
    Performance and Maintenance > System > Hardware Tab > Device Manager
    o Look for a device called ‘ipod’ - if your ipod shows up as
    ‘digital camera’ it will be under something like ‘imaging devices’.
    4. Update the driver:
    o Right click the ‘ipod-camera’ in device manager and click on
    ‘Update Driver’ – the Hardware Update Wizard will open.
    o Check the ‘Install from a list or specific location’ then click ‘Next’
    o Check ‘Search for the best driver in these locations’. Un-check
    ‘Search removable media’ and check ‘Include this location in the search’.
    In the text box below type (or better copy and paste) the folder
    containing the ipod driver information found in step 1 (in the example
    above it was C:\WINDOWS\system32\DRVSTORE\usbaapl_A65621D65F5B7 507DD7B22331826547BDD2D206B),
    then click Next.
    You should now see something like ‘Apple ipod device driver’ or so. Continue
    installing that device. Once the driver has been installed the ipod will come
    to life and iTunes (if you have it open) will show it.
    If for some reason this doesn't work, try downloading the file here:
    http://www.runscanner.net/files/sys...sbaapl.sys.aspx
    And putting it here:
    C:\ WINDOWS\ system32\ drivers\ usbaapl.sys

    It's still not working. I went through every step and still can't get my Iphone to show up on my itunes.
    Though I did find that the USB driver is not listed under any devices...

  • LOOK HERE: using an ipod shuffle with windows xp/gets unknown device error

    http://www.genesoc.com/node/405
    If this is similar to what's happening with your shuffle 2g ipod, I may have a weird solution. I spent a few nights troubleshooting this issue and searching many many sites and forums for solutions, all without success. Everytime I plugged the ipod in, XP gave one of the errors at the above URL. I did confirm on another pc that the shuffle was definitely working, because it updated and synched flawlessly. What I finally did to solve the issue was........... remove service pack 2. I know that's a bass ackward solution but it worked! I can now plug my shuffle in and it works everytime, perfectly. The only thing I can say for sure is it's something to do with usb 2.0 on my motherboard. It's a via board btw, with an apollo 333 chipset. Try it for yourself, and let's see if it works. Apple or some other company(you know who) needs to release a patch for this as it seems to be a very common problem.
    PC   Windows XP Pro  
    PC   Windows XP Pro  

    That looks exactly like my problem heres a link to my post on another thread:
    http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=3631655#3631655
    Hope that helps.
      Windows XP Pro  

  • Look Here - How to install Leopard on G5s

    I have had all of the issues... source media bad, voiceover thing not verifiable - in fact the Leopard installation process has been terribly problematic at all levels... and I have had no success - until now.
    I received a hint from a comment at the Apple Store Bar thing... The guy said it was bad memory. But this is in itself a bit suspicious... I mean define "bad".
    First the memory is all Apple certified etc. It has been running in my G5 since day 3 of getting the Tower. I have two utilities - one supplied by Apple Care - reporting the memory is good... so "bad" might mean it is being declared bad by something in the installer. Especially because of the following tests:
    Memory testing application says memory "Passed" all of the tests
    Deleted drives, repartitioned etc... and in each case below I completely repartitioned etc.
    Installed 10.3 from cd - no issues
    Stared over
    Installed 10.4 from cd - no issues
    Started over
    Installed 10.5 from DVD - fails with media error - after verify good and 4.6 gigs of install
    Start over
    Installed 10.5 from FW HD copy of DVD - fails with media error - after verify, and several disk checks etc. and 4.6 gigs of install
    Removed one of my hard drives
    Start over
    Installed 10.5 - fails at a different point, but in the same manner
    Remove 4 of 4.5 gigs of RAM
    Start over
    Installed 10.5 from DVD - Success! But it took almost twice as long!
    So it looks like the RAM really is bad... I mean it is "bad" to the 10.5 installer process. It is good everywhere else. And of course, even before the very first reboot for the new OS, I stopped it from re-powering up and I reinstalled all of the RAM... runs like a champ... and it likes my "bad" memory.
    But now I want this running on the hardware configuration I want and that Apple says is supported... I want it on a stripped RAID set. Here is the plan!
    Currently making a sparse image, of the successful 10.5 install volume, via CCC and placing it on a FW 800 drive.
    Next I will make a sparse image of my good and current 10.4 RAID for backup
    Then Recreate the RAID via 10.5 DVD boot
    Then put G5 in target disk mode
    Use my MBP and CCC to copy the sparse image of the good 10.5 on the FW 800 over the newly created RAID set.
    That is the plan anyway...
    I know many people are looking to their cd/dvd drives as the issue. But if that were the issue, then install from a FW Drive would work... and ti does not... in fact it files the exact same way...
    Therefore, we are looking to an IO issue. Possibly a bus or channel lane thingy thing issue... but IO, not HD.
    And by the way, it looks like having multiple drives present during the install can be an issue...
    Good luck.

    Well, I certainly hope the posts have helped... I get a great deal of help here in the forums and it is good to be able to provide some back...
    To be clear, I obviously do not think the RAM is bad. Also, I think my DVD reader is just fine since once I removed the RAM, it was from that DVD reader I installed Leopard. I also do not think Leopard is "broken" other than I think the installer has some refinement issues.
    By digging through the posts it seems, to me anyway, that what is causing these issues is a "Tolerance" issue. I do not mean this too technically but think of it this way...
    What if the applications Apple is leveraging for the install process perform some function that requires memory to have some spec that is, making up numbers here, 1.341201 - but most RAM only reports to 4 decimal places? Then the RAM is bad to the installer. But not bad elsewhere...
    Don't get hung up in the details of my example, just think of the broader idea in the example.
    Same thing for DVD players, hard drives, etc. This would fit with Apples tight control on hardware. This is not necessarily a "bad" thing... even if it does cause all these issues.
    I am willing to guess that a good number of the people reporting issues here have one of the following environments:
    Hardware NOT supplied directly by Apple
    Software, not supplied by Apple, running while upgrading
    Both
    But I an not blaming the user either. You definitly should be able to have those things.
    I intend to experiment with my Leopard installs. My next test is to remove the RAM again and put in non-apple hard drives in a RAID 0 configuration. My guess is it will fail. I guess this because one thing I noted in all my dealings with this install process is... Speed = failure. Slowing the machine down lead to the failures taking place at a further point in the instal [ignore actual duration]. And this makes me think my DVD reader cannot IO with my RAM without timing issues... Is that a bad DVD player? Or DVD? Or RAM, or BUS? I think not but only because once it actually gets installed it runs fine, although the Dock and other animations are a bit jerky - but so am I
    So it is tolerances... I guess.

  • Tiered Data Overages? LOOK HERE!!

    If you are here, you already know what this discussion is about. The internet forums are filled with Verizon customer complaints regarding data overage charges resulting from EXCESSIVE, UNUSAL data usage that the customers do not agree with. In most cases, the overage charges are astronomical, and the amount of data usage is multiple of the customers' usual, average usage. Also, in most cases, according to Verizon, these customers have used up their alloted quota just a few days into the new billing cycle. It happens on ALL type of data devices, smartphones, tablets, hotspots/mobile broadbands as well as Verizon's LTE based home internet product HomeFusion.
    From my personal experience, the usage monitoring tool that Verizon has provided is a faulty, absolute garbage of an application that is inaccurate to say the least. For example, as of right now, total data usage on ALL my devices is LESS than the sum of usage on individual lines - 0.30GB on line 1, 0.28GB on line 2, but total usage is 0.31GB - how's that for accuracy? For most of this billing cycle, the total usage was 0.0GB even though the usage on individual lines were going up. As you can see from my low, low data usage that I am SCARED to touch my phones because I don't know what Verizon would come up with and then demand ungodly amount of money for something that I didn't use.
    Now, you might think that once you are into the new billing period and a bill for the previous period has been printed showing no overages for that period, you are safe. NO, NO, NO!!!!!! Enter the "Unbilled usage from previous monthS" saga. You never know when you are going to be hit with one of those. See the capital "S" in the "months"? Yes, that means Verizon could come back months later and say, "hey, you owe us money because we didn't bill you for X amount of data you used in last monthS", and CONVENIENTLY add that usage to you CURRENT allotment to make you go over, resulting in overage charges.
    Now, how does Verizon back up their claims of you using X amount of data? THEY DON'T. For example, if they had told you that you had voice overages, you have the option to check it against your call history not on your phone, but in the bill. Same goes for messages - Go to a Verizon store, and they can print details about every single messages such as what time the message was sent or received, from/to number (but not the actual message). But for data usage - THEIR WORD IS FINAL!! Ask them for details of data usage - their answer: NOPE,  CAN'T DO!!, BUT you still gotta pay.
    What does Verizon do when you have a problem like that? If you post your issues here, you MIGHT get a canned "I am here to help you, please send me a DM so we can discuss it" response from a VZW CSR but THAT'S THE END OF IT. At the end, their conclusion is "THESE ARE LEGITIMATE CHARGES AND YOU HAVE TO PAY", folowed by a sarcastic "Can I help you with anything else", as if they have been SUCH A HELP all along. Then, if you complain long and hard enough, you might be offered a 25% reduction in the overage charges, given that you move up to a significantly higher priced tier, even though in reality you never needed it, leaving you with 75% of the phony bill that you have nothing to do with.
    The reality is that Verizon, without being forced by external legal authorities, will NEVER admit that there is an issue with their data usage monitoring/billing system. In the past, Verizon had been fined for illegally charging its customers for data usage, minutes overages and what not. And, in every single case, Verizon was the subject of investigation and ONLY THEN it agreed to refund the customers - the good old "I am sorry because I got caught".
    So, what do we do?
    At this time, we need to show our power as consumers and have our voices heard. If you a VICTIM of Verizon's illegal data overage charges practices, you must NOT give in and must STAND UP! DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH VZW Reps. Go straight to other options. Two of such are BBB and FTC. When there are enough complaints, they will take notice and look into it. Here are the links:
    https://www.bbb.org/consumer-complaints/file-a-complaint/get-started
    https://www.ftccomplaintassistant.gov/FTC_Wizard.aspx?Lang=en
    Stay strong and FIGHT BACK!!

    Lettuceman,
    I have the same issue. 1 and 2 Gig chunks of data show up on the My
    Verizon report, when I know I was not using the device. I have spent too much
    time on the phone with customer service and there is no way to track down what
    is causing the spikes. Since I have no control over stopping the overages, I
    have made the decision to cancel the account; I have been shopping for
    replacements and will get out in the next week or so. Too bad… it is nice
    technology, it works well. But their fee structure and operational controls are
    not what they need to be, so I have to bow out. I am rural, like you, and had
    no decent alternatives before, but some point to point wireless alternatives
    are starting to pop up and so I will take one of them.  Without these overages, I would have stayed
    on this indefinitely, even though it was a bit pricey.  But I have a real problem with paying for
    service I am not using… and that is definitely what is happening.
    Good luck..

  • Can't Sync Contacts and Calendar -- Look Here

    Ok, to quell the confusion on this issue let me fix the general errors with this so others here can see why this is caused and how to fix it.
    First if you cannot sync contacts and calendar and only those two items check your hotsync log. And look for contacts and calendar if you do not see these items this means you have an exchange server setup on the device or did at one point. To fix this go into email(Versamail) and tap on your account name in the top left then go to accounts and account setup. Once in here check all your accounts by clicking on them and then hitting edit. Look for EAS or only one server address. If this is what you have you are syncing to exchange and Versamail takes over contacts and calendar from hotsync. This cannot be changed. If you do not have EAS or one server on the device. It is possible that Versamail is holding the contacts and calendar due to you had exchange before. If this is the case the only thing you can do is a hard reset to resolve the issue. I understand that most cannot backup there data(contacts and calendar). But to fix this issue you will need to do the hard reset.
    If you are not using exchange and find contacts and calendar in your hotsync log but have OLERR under them please look at this KB for possible fixes to this issue. http://kb.palm.com/SRVS/NUA/launchKB.asp?c=31167
    Lastly if you are using Verizon's WirelessSync. Just by having this installed will disable contacts and calendar from syncing. To enable this go into WirelessSync then settings-->advanced settings and enable other sync applications.
    Post relates to: Treo 800w (Sprint)

    I'm having this issue, but can't find any issues with an Exchange server (I don't work in a big office, and we don't have one set up).  My phone did a hard reset this past weekend when I tried to send a picture via Snappermail (which I use instead of Versamail, if it matters); I was able ot restore all my data with the next hotsync, but, after that, it stopped syncing the Contacts and Callendar (but the hotsync log shows no errors--although it also doesn't say htey synchronized correctly, either).  I've tried doing what was suggested in the first post of this thread (to the best of my ability--as I don't use Versamail, I just tried to do the same thing with Snapper, and made sure no accounts were up on Versamail).  I've also uninstalled and reinstalled the Desktop, and performed a hard reset on my Treo.  Still, nothing.  I'd backed up the contacts and addresses on my memory card with FileZ, and that's the only place I've got the current info--I somehow lost the separate back-up I'd created on my desktop (outside of my Palm folder) for my contacts, although the datebook info is still there.  I'm using Vista, and running Desktop 6.2.2.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated immensely--I've lost a few nights sleep trying to get this figured out, and am at the end of my rope.  Thanks!
    Post relates to: Treo 755p (Sprint)

  • Nforce2 No boot after overclock? Look here!

    MSI follows the rules with nForce2.
    Found at [URL]www.theinquirer.net[/URL]
    Quote
    Nforce 2 BIOS problems confirmed and fixed
    The perils of ignoring the reference design
    By Arron Rouse: Tuesday 11 March 2003, 19:10
    A SHORT WHILE AGO WE REPORTED that there could be a serious problem with Nforce 2 chipset motherboards. No sooner had the article gone up than Nvidia got in contact wanting to know all of the details.
    Users of a new Shuttle Nforce 2 based machine had reported problems with the BIOS. They had been trying to overclock their machines only to find that, once they went past a certain point, the machine would stop working.
    At first it looked like a problem with the Shuttle but then Asus motherboard owners reported the same problem. Then Abit and Epox. Not only would they stop working, it was proving difficult to get them working again.
    Nvidia stepped into the breach and admitted that there was a fault with the Shuttle and Abit boards. The fault lay in the manufacturers missing off a jumper that Nvidia had specified on the Nforce 2 reference design.
    Hard Tecs 4U, a German site, unwittingly uncovered the missing jumper. They had reviewed six Nforce 2 motherboards from different manufacturers and managed to kill all of them. The only one that was easy to recover was an MSI K7N2-L board which has the jumper. Using the jumper sets the BIOS back to a 100MHz FSB safe mode.
    Other people had discovered that you could use a 100MHz FSB processor, for example a Duron, in a motherboard that had stopped working to get it going again.
    And there lies the problem. Setting the FSB too high can stop Nforce 2 motherboards from POSTing. Once the motherboard has stopped POSTing, the only way to get it going again is to reset the FSB back down to 100MHz. Only most motherboards don't have the jumper so you can't do that.
    Nvidia obviously knew about this problem because they built the reference Nforce 2 motherboard with that jumper. The fact that many manufacturers didn't put the jumper onto their motherboards means that someone deserves a slapped wrist at the very least. Whether that's Nvidia for not emphasising the need for the jumper or the manufacturers for not including it is something we may never know.
    However, what we do know is that a fix will soon be at hand for everyone. Nvidia has managed to create a fix for the BIOS on Nforce 2 motherboards that will solve the issue. That fix has already gone to several manufacturers who should be able to supply an updated version of the BIOS for their specific motherboards soon.
    Nvidia has said that it managed to get that BIOS fix to Shuttle the next working day after our initial article. Hats off to Nvidia for getting the problem sorted so quickly. µ

    Thanks for the tip.  I had been clearing the CMOS to recover from a no-boot overclock, but this sounds better.
    This topic is covered in the K7N2F Series manual (English) on page 2-32.  J10 is the jumper referred to in your post, and there is a "MSI reminds you..." note on that page to explain what to do in case of boot failure.
    There is a second jumper on the board that is also mentioned on page 2-32.  This is J11 which has two options--open for 100MHz, and shorted for 133/166MHz.  Does it seem like J10 and J11 might do the same thing?  
    Three observations:
    1.  On my K7N2G-ILSR, with J10 and J11 in the default positions--User mode and 133/166MHZ--I was able to change the FSB on a 2500+ Barton (166MHz FSB spec) from 100 to 200, and get the CPU to run at the chosen settings.  Well, not quite--see #3 below.  So, J11--whatever it does--does not appear to limit the FSB settings.
    2.  Another oddity is that, after clearing CMOS, the 2500+ always boots up at 100MHz FSB, even though its default is 166 MHz.  Same thing happens if the "Load BIOS Setup Defaults" is used.  Shouldn't both of these actions result in the processor starting up at its rated settings?
    3.  (Related, but may be off topic.  I will start a new thread on this.)  The 2500+ Barton arrived unlocked.  So I set the FSB to 100 (for safety and ease of math) and tried every multiplier.  Here are the results (multiplier and CPU clock)--
    07.0    700
    07.5    750
    08.0    800
    08.5    850
    09.0    1100
    09.5    950
    10.0    1000
    10.5    1050
    11.0    1100
    11.5    1150
    12.0    1200
    12.5    1250
    13.0    495
    Observations;
    A.  The 2500+ will start with a multiplier of 11 (correct) after clearing CMOS or selecting BIOS Defaults.
    B.  What happened at 9.5 and at 13.0?  I thought this bios (V 1.2 February 14, 2003) was supposed to support the 3000+ Barton, which requires a 13 multiplier.  FWIW, the CPU clock on the 2500+ goes to 833MHz with 166FSB X13.0.  Is my Barton less than fully unlocked?  Or is there a bios bug?
    C.  Multipliers above 13 would be helpful--just like FSB above 200.
    --wcb

  • What Brand of Blank Media Should I Use? Look Here

    The question of blank media brands comes up quite often. Sometimes a poster just asks the question. Other times, it starts with playability issues and moves on to blank media brands.
    Here's a THREAD in the DVD Lounge, that has some good comments. If one has any questions as to what brand they should use, they will benefit from this discussion.
    Good luck,
    Hunt

    Here are some more links with helpful articles:
    - http://www.digitalfaq.com/reviews/dvd-media.htm
    - http://www.digitalfaq.com/guides/media
    - http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/forumdisplay.php/blank-media-19.html
    Good luck to all,
    Hunt

  • Want to get a new Macbook and import audio through USB? Look here.

    FWIW, as I was reading many of these posts, a lot of folks are suggesting that you NEED firewire for audio interfaces. Here is a link to twenty (USB) audio interfaces and that is just at one site. I myself record hi end audio for film using a M-Audio Fast Track Ultra (8 in and 8 outs) along with Logic and Final Cut Pro. Firewire is great, can have less latency, and a lot of users still have gear. I won't get into that debate, it's been beat to death. Just wanted to be accurate to any budding musicians, etc. who might be scared off by all this talk re: Firewire a necessity for pro audio. Latency (a problem 'sometimes' associated with USB devises transferring slower data) is old news. Technology has come a long way since the days of a USB 1.0 MBox. Get a new Macbook, a good audio interface, write a great song and you're in business -- all in style with your new sexy MB. Here's the link: http://www.sweetwater.com/c695--USBAudioInterfaces

    I'd still beg to differ, and I would hazard a guess that most people who work in Audio would agree that firewire interfaces are as a general rule of thumb, far superior. Now a reason that I'm not too inclined to recommend M-Audio is because I had an M-Audio USB interface, and it was nothing but trouble, pops clicks, dropouts, high on the CPU, it would reset the USB bus and cause crashes, often forcing me to reboot mid session. Plus the MIDI interface never did work!
    I hope they've cleaned up their act since then, and I guess if you can get work done on your interface that they must have done.
    I do find it odd though that the company who Apple partnered with to release some audio interfaces that work seamlessly with Garageband and Logic chose firewire, so if you buy a new macbook and want to use the interface that Apple recommends to use with garageband you can't.
    Now one of the reasons I have a macbook, is that last year my iBook died, and I needed a new notebook to go with my MOTU interface, I could just about have stretched my budget to a MBP, but seeing as they used the Lucent (Agere) firewire chipset, there was a strong chance that any decent firewire interface wouldn't work with it, and I've heard that the new MBP uses the Lucent chipset, rather than the more dependable TI one, so there's a chance that professional audio may have to skip this whole generation of notebook refreshes, that is until Apple start using a decent chipset again.
    And I'm sorry, the argument that Pros would only use the Pro machine seems a little naive (see above reason), sometimes portability is a pre-requisite for a persons needs, the portability that say the old 12" Powerbook had, which many still miss. Plus as far as portability goes many firewire multi channel interfaces are bus powered, something that AFAIK you can't get with USB.
    But all audio interface disagreements aside, one thing that USB does not have, and I don't think could have, is DSP, like the SSL Duende, the TC Powercore, the Focusrite Liquidmix. All three which come in a variety of flavours, including the less powerful, but more price friendly variety, perfect for end users who want a bit of class but without paying the earth.
    Message was edited by: myca

  • Having sign-in (creative cloud wont update/open/forever signed out) issues? look here! (win7/8)

    First download the latest version of creative cloud desktop here: https://creative.adobe.com/products/creative-cloud (you will need to sign in with your adobe id and pw),
    Run the installer, itll get about 50% done and say you need to close a running instance of creative cloud,
    Press "control+alt+delete", click task manager,
    In applications tab close adobe creative cloud (**don't close the cc setup that you have just ran to 50%**),
    In processes tab close anything related to adobe except the setup process, for me this was "core sync" and "adobe CEF helper" and "adobe CEP service manager" (they should be labeled as being adobe in the descritpion),
    Close task manager, bring up the installer window that should still be at 50% and click "retry", it should now take a minute or two and finish installing to 100%,
    Creative cloud will open automatically after install, I personally didnt need to login, it remembered my details and auto signed in .
    Confirmed working on Win8 and was able to update my photoshop and illustrator without issue and its staying signed in! The process should be more or less identical on Win7. Hope that helps some people!

    Hi,
    Please refer to the help document:
    Creative Cloud applications unexpectedly revert to trial mode | CS6, CCM
    Regards,
    Sheena

  • Please take look here....somebody!!!

    I have one textfield and one combobox and a button. When the button is pushed, if there is textfield is blank and the combobox is set to "Make a Selectio.." I want to see a JOption message. Here is what I have but my combobox is not working. I get a compile time error. I think I need to declare "getSelectionItem" somewhere but where and how......, that I don't know.
    if (source == DataFind)
    try
    //Create Statement object
    Statement s = c.createStatement();
    String query = "SELECT * FROM Data";
    if (txtName.getText().trim().equals("") &&
    txtID.getText().trim().equals("") &&
    cmbColor.getSelectedItem.equals("Make a Selection....."))
    JOptionPane.showMessageDialog(null, "You must ....!", "Error", JOptionPane.ERROR_MESSAGE);
    else
    String Name = "WHERE Name = '" + txtName.getText() + "'";
    //Create the ResultSet object
    ResultSet result = s.executeQuery(query);
    char Color;
    int ID;
    while (result.next())
    Name = result.getString(1);
    Color = result.getString(2).charAt(0);
    ID = result.getInt(3);
    output.setText(Name + " " + Color + " " + ID);
    }

    Already replied getSelectedItem()

  • LOOK HERE FOR ACTIVATION PROBLEMS!!!

    Hey
    I hope this helped it seems that i got extremly lucky with my iPhone i had been syncing my iPhone through iTunes for about 7 hours. I tried calling all different numbers none were working for me. So i decided to turn off the phone and turn it back on. As soon i it came to the home screen it said activating with AT&T and with in seconds it said activation complete and i was on my way with my phone. Everything worked i got incoming messages and was able to use edge and wifi along with out going data. I hope this helps anyone who needs it or is having problems syncing up.
    Macbook   Mac OS X (10.4.10)   love it

    Hey
    Heres the whole story i got my phone pluged it in and went through all the procedures untile the end were they tell you they are going to send you an email. I waited about 5 hours and nothing had happened still the same screen with the emergency call and all. Then i took it off the cord (not in dock just usb) and had if off for about an hour. Then put it back on woried it would mess it up. After a another hour or so i figured i might as well turn it on and then off. So with it still pluged in i turned it off waited a few seconds then powered it back on. After about 30 seconds it came to the same screen with the emergency call and then right away it said AT&T activation in progress or something like that then within a few more seconds it said activation complete and everything was working.
    Hoped this helps and wasnt just luck on my part
    Good luck

  • Look Here if Your Ipod has Sad Face

    If you have this problem, try reinstall the ipod updates. You can do this by going to this website http://www.apple.com/ipod/download/ and downloading the correct file that is associated with your ipod. When you run the software, there is a restore button. THIS WILL DELETE EVERYTHING ON YOUR IPOD! If worst comes to worst I would delete it because you can get back all the data from wherever you got the songs from. This should restart your ipod to factory defaults. All should be fine then.

    Or best just to follow the Apple article here, which contains extra info.
    What to do about the sad iPod icon.

  • ITunes crashing? Look here.

    I too was having the crash problem when iTunes was started, after I installed the latest version as of 4/25/07.
    I finally fixed it. Here's how:
    I uninstalled iTunes completely through Add/remove programs.
    I deleted an iTunes folders from C:\Documents and Settings\"user name"\My Documents\My Music\iTunes\iTunes Music. I then tried uninstalling Quicktime through Add/remove programs, but I got a "fatal error". I manually deleted the Quicktime folder from Program Files, then Add/remove programs let me uninstall it completely with no errors.
    Now here is the tricky part. I found an old version of iTunes (from 2005) and installed it. It opened up and did not crash. Of course, the old version does not work for the iTunes store. I downloaded the latest version of iTunes, installed it, and it works perfectly now. I have no idea why, but it does.
    The only problem with this is it may not be easy to find older version of iTunes, unless they are buried on Apple's site somewhere.
    Good luck. I hope this helps someone out there.

    Will older versions support a video ipod?
    Every time I try to play a video (either downloaded from itunes or one that has been converted) itunes crashes, same happens when I attach ipod.
    Anyone noticed the itunes radio buffering every 15 seconds too?
    Would getting rid of the new version and installing an older one get rid of these problems?
    Thanks for any help.

  • EVERYONE LOOK HERE if you have the -50 problem!!!

    I posted this earlier, and to make a topic so people can see, this is the way I solved my problem... Disconnect the iPod from the computer. Then go to "start> right click my computer>
    manage> services and applications> services> click iPod service> click stop service." Then connect the ipod and it should show up in my computer. Format it so all content is gone. Next, go back to "start> right click my computer>
    manage> services and applications> services> click iPod service> click Start service." This should have the service running again. Open iTunes and connect the shuffle. When it says to automatically fill it (the window that pops up) dont unclick it, proceed so the shuffle autofills. Before it stops, quickly go to the settings tab. Then, scroll down to where it says "enable disk use". select that and hit apply. Now, you manually eject the iPod and you can manage your music! I had the same problem as you and this eliminated the problem! I hope I helped you here.
    Averatec   Windows XP  

    I posted this earlier, and to make a topic so people
    can see, this is the way I solved my problem...
    Disconnect the iPod from the computer. Then go to
    "start> right click my computer>
    manage> services and applications> services> click
    iPod service> click stop service." Then connect the
    ipod and it should show up in my computer. Format it
    so all content is gone. Next, go back to "start>
    right click my computer>
    manage> services and applications> services> click
    iPod service> click Start service." This should have
    the service running again. Open iTunes and connect
    the shuffle. When it says to automatically fill it
    (the window that pops up) dont unclick it, proceed so
    the shuffle autofills. Before it stops, quickly go to
    the settings tab. Then, scroll down to where it says
    "enable disk use". select that and hit apply. Now,
    you manually eject the iPod and you can manage your
    music! I had the same problem as you and this
    eliminated the problem! I hope I helped you
    here.
    Averatec  
    Windows XP  
    This fixed mine!!! YEAHHHHHHHHH. My itunes would freeze up everytime I tried to do anything with my new G2Shuff. I was really getting upset. The status bar for updating or attempting to do anything would just sit there not statusing at all. Get all the errors -50,1418, couldn't read or write to, bla bla, etc. Hopefully Apple will offer a simple fix at some future point.

  • Somone who knows somthing look here and solve this.

    ok here is the problem i formated my computer and i dont want everthing to get deletd on my ipod anyone have a sulution to this problem mpost here or email me [email protected]

    or you could copy the music folder from your ipod.
    to do this you need to enable the disk use for ipod
    then explore the contents of your ipod and search for the folder called ipod_control. (for this folder To appear on your ipod you have to enable hidden folders option)
    if you find the folder open the folder and copy the music folder in this folder to your desktop(this might take awhile depending on how much music yove got on your ipod)
    once the folder is on your desktop go to itunes. on the file menu on itunes select add *folder to library* you will need to browse for the music folder youve just copied onto your desktop and select it to be added to your library. once that is done the copy process will begin. hope this helps

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