MBP 15" Gloss or Antiglare

I want to but the MBP 15" 2.8Ghz Laptop. Ive today been in the store and spent an hour comparing Antiglare with gloss.
The first thing I noticed was that the silver bezel on the matte is fantastic looking, and gives the MBP are more quality look. At first I was mistakinly comparing the 15" gloss to a 17" matte and the matte was noticably richer and sharper. However when I realised i then compared to the 15" matte.. The matte is deffinatly much better on glare in fact its typical of any matte monitor. On colour and sharpness my first impression it was very slightly worse than the gloss but after chucking around some hi def pics I was happy with it.
The matte display does not have the benefit of a flush hard glass covering so when you clean it you do need to make sure you get into all the corners. Also if you press on it you do get the sort of colour thumb print you get on all matte screens.
Conclusion is I will go with the Matte as it becomes apparent the gloss which incidently I already have, does cause an eye strain problem and difficult when in lit rooms.
PS The apple online specialist told me their graphic designers prefer the colour matching of the gloss. They all work in dimly lit rooms . Also I felt the 17" matte which runs at a higher resolution was a step up.

Have you connected it to a large monitor and if so what the quality is like ?
Nope - I haven't done that.
On my 13" MB Alu I find it a bit washed out.
You might need to play with the monitor profiles. I doubt your MB/MBP screen profiles would be optimum for the large monitor.
Have you noticed any performance improvement between the two GFX cards.
Haven't made any tests yet. Most of what I do doesn't require the higher performance card - I'm NOT a 'gamer'.

Similar Messages

How to upgrade my MBP glossy screen to antiglare??

I already purchased the MBP 15 however I want to change the screen to antiglare. I know I can install an antiglare film but this hits the image.
How to upgrade my MBP glossy screen to antiglare after I already purchased the MBP? Is it possible to do it through apple?

That would mean replacing the top cover of hte MBP, something on the order of $500...and would have to be done by Apple or an authorized Apple repair or it will void the warranty. You could try talking to an Apple store genius bar person and see if they would do that but it will not be cheap.

MBP 17" glossy vs antiglare

I want to buy 17" MBP and I am having very hard times deciding whether to choose glossy or antiglare screen.
I know that glossy is more vivid. However, the main thing for me is that it must be OK for my eyes. Therefore, if antiglare reduces UV radiation and the eyestrain I will buy it.
Anyone could suggest whether antiglare will be much better?
P.S. I am using the old plastic MacBook 13" now. Does it have glossy or antiglare screen?

' Whoops! Sorry Dina - I somehow missed your reply entirely!!! Mayhap I forgot to mark the thread for watching...
' Anyways - assuming you still need a reply to this question - no, calibration isn't really a concern from the perspective of which screen to choose...
' You can successfully and professionally calibrate both types of screens. You will find that there are some media professionals who swear by matte, and others that do the same for glossy - so again it comes down to preferance.
' If you yourself are in a situation where you require such calibration for professional reasons then you need consider what you yourself believe works "best" for you, and you need to consider your work environment. If you're working in locations that are controlled and relatively static (from a lighting conditions perspective) then either screen-type would do fine. If, however, you work in locations where you aren't in control of the lighting or are working in outdoor or light-flooded environments, then I would suggest that matte would be a better choice.
' But again, there are media professionals that work in all sorts of environments that swear they can successfully do their jobs with either - it really depends on what it is you like, and just how much you're willing to put up with constant adjustments to the position of your laptop and / or screen. Again I say there's far less hoop-jumping involved in using a matte screen - but if you're working in a position where colour-accuracy is important, then theoretically ANY kind of reflection is to be avoided - whether it's diffuse like on a matte screen, or sharp and defined as per glossy - so position adjustments are going to necessary and unavoidable one way or another.
' My suggestion? Go with what turns you on!
' It's the only way to be happy.
' Later,
~Menageryl

Recommend anti-glare LCD monitor for MBP 13

Hello, I need a decent quality antiglare type monitor to be the external monitor for graphics work with my MacBook Pro 13 inch unibody. I just tried an HP ZR24w but was not able to get it working. The monitor would light up for one second and my desktop showed, then it would immediately go dark. Apple support could not help, HP support kept me on hold for 45 min. and then dropped my call.
Unfortunately Apple no longer makes antiglare monitors for its graphics professional community. If they did I would buy an Apple monitor. I am currently using an old Apple Cinema Display but it has a bad case of creeping screen defects and looks terrible.
Is anyone out there sucessfully using an external monitor with MBP that has an antiglare screen, does 1920 x 1200 res and has an IPS LCD?
The usual suspects that people recommend for graphics work in the mid-range are Dell ultra-sharp and HP LP2475w. Since I do less graphics work than I used to I thought the ZR24w would be a good affordable option, however since I could not get it to work I am concerned that none of these other monitors will be compatible either. Buying and returning vis mail order is expensive... would really appreciate hearing what other people are using.
Please let me know what connector you are using. I tried the ZR24w with both DVI and displayPort but neither of these options work for me. Apple tech support was stumped and blamed it on HP.
Any thoughts?
TIA!

There should be a anti-glare option on ALL Mac's, however the 13" is certainly the next prime candidate for one given that they rolled out anti-glare for the 17" first, then the 15" next.

Monster Screen Cleaner on an antiglare screen

I know, I know. You're only supposed to use water when cleaning a MacBook Pro screen.
I have a late 2011 15" with a hi res antiglare screen. Water was fine for a while, but I was recommded Monster Screen cleaner for both my MacBook and my LCD TV. I had heard that it was quite safe from several sources, so I used the supplied microfibre cloth moistend with Monster to gently clean my MacBook screen.
At first it looked great. Now that it has dried, I notice a "vignette" around the edges of my screen: the edges that meet the bezel are darker where I didn't reach with my cloth. With light on my screen, I can easy see where I wiped with Monster, and there are some subtle streaks across the surface where I wiped.
Moreover, to my eyes, there is more glare from direct light over the general surface than in the un-wiped corners. So my question is: do antiglare MBP screens have an antiglare coating? Could I have removed this with a gentle wipe with Monster solution? I supposed I assumed that the antiglare propery was simply the matte surface of the screen, to be contrasted with the glossy layer on stock MacBooks.
I am incensed, because many parties including Mac professionals have recommended this stuff to be safe and effective.
Has anyone had a similar experience with their antiglare screen?

All I can relate to you is that I use Windex Electronics cleaner (NOT regular Windex) using a small microfiber cloth to apply it and a large one (12"x15") to wipe it with great success. No film, spots or residue. I recommend it and I receive no compensation from the manufacturer.
Ciao.

17" Unibody Anti-Glare display is STUNNING!!

I received my 17" Unibody Macbook Pro with the Anti-Glare screen today. I was somewhat concerned having purchased it with the Anti-Glare option. I use Photoshop every day as a graphic artist/photographer and color accuracy is very important to me. Today I calibrated my 30", 20" and the new 17" Unibody display. I am very excited to report that this is the first laptop I have ever used that can keep up with the desktop displays. The colors looked very similar on all three displays. The colors on the laptop are much better after I calibrated it. The factory settings were a bit too cool in my opinion. The calibration also proved this to be so. I also turned off the auto dimming. I also noticed the default in battery mode is dimmer than on AC mode. This can also be turned off. I went to the Apple store to view the 17" standard glass display. I am 100% pleased that I went with the anti-glare.

How do you ascertain that the finished hw calibration is set to '70%'? I hardware calibrated my Unibody 15" MBPs andas well as my 2 newly arrived 17" Unibody MBPs (one gloss, one 'anti-glare'), with an Gretag MacBeth Eye-One Pro system, a ColorMunki Photo unit, and the Spyder 3 Elite, usually running the Eye-One Pro profile for most runs. My clients output on everything from Epson 3800s to Heidelbergs, ProPhoto RGB to Hex to 7+ plate runs, spot/lacquer/process, newsprint to 10-point coated... my 15"Unibody MBPs (glossy, natch) can just attain acceptably accurate calibration to IS, period, and I'm wondering if, between the narrow viewing angle and the apparent dithering in some color midtones, whether the 15" MBP displays are hardware 24-bit, but rather 16-bit dithered... my 15 MBPs are barely acceptable for the critical photo retouching and pre-press design work I do every day in Quark, P-shop, Illustrator and various Binuscan, etc. apps... OTOH, both the gloss and anti-glare 17" MBP displays, once calibrated, are of course both warmer and dimmer than the Apple factory LCD profile and the setting of '100%' brightness in System Preferences>Display. NO quality calibration hardware CMS profiler result will NOT dim any display in good condition (this obviously doesn't include 2-3 year old non-LED backlit laptop or desktop LCDs, even IPS ones), and usually warm ANY display, whether LCD or CRT... back in the day, just north of 5K color temperature was more common than the 6.5k now often in use. The mechanical brightness capability of a laptop display is more relevant 'back in the day', when the red guns in particular of the Barco and Sony CRTs 'dimmed' with age; they needed to be MUCH brighter than what was needed for pre-press calibration, to compensate for the CRT's phosphor 'decay'/RGB gun aging...
all that said, (sorry about the lecture), I'd be very interested in how, on the 2009 17" MBP, you were able to ascertain that your display after hardware calibration was at '70%' brightness... I set the display to 100%, turn off the ambient sensor, of course, and then do the calibration... the screen's dimmer when that profile is selected, but in ALL cases, with ALL my hardware profiles, the screen remains, at least in System Preferences, at 100%... is there a place in the s/w of your calibration unit that tells you what it 'dimmed your display to, using the System Preferences' '100%' Brightness as the baseline?
Thanks in advance! =^D

Create new Library on internal Hard Drive.

My A3 was extremely sluggish. All functions work, but they are all sloooooowwww.
Created an Aperture Library in my internal HD instead of External HD. Seems to have picked up some speed. Was wondering if any of you guys have noticed a performance difference based on where your Libriary icon is kept. Onboard or off?
I use only referenced files.
MBP 17 gloss older gen//2.6 core 2 duo intel// 4g ram. ///10.6.2

What kind of external drive were you using? USB? FW400? FW800? Or was it on a network drive? Makes a big difference. Also the rpm and cache size of the drive can make a big difference as well.
I have the "library" on the internal and the image files (referenced) on a FW800 drive.

Which screen !! Help!!

About to order a new 15" macBook Pro. However I cannot make up my mind regarding which screen to order:
MBP 15" HR Glossy WS Display
or
MBP 15" HR AntiGlare WS Display
Any reasons for one over the other?
Thanks

Glossy; richer colors, great for watching DVDs, much glare, not good for outdoor use or in bright light environment,
Anti glare; Screen not as brilliant, better for outdoor or bright light environments, more accurate color representation (per photographers).
The first MBP I bought had a glossy display and I liked and still do, but there are limitations where you can effectively use it. The second one (the current one), after much consternation, I chose an Antiglare. Initially I did miss the glossy look but I have adjusted to it. The fact is, it simply is more practical and the display is still pretty good. My next MBP will be an Antiglare.
Best thing to do is to go to an Apple store and view them side by side. After all this is your decision.
Ciao.

Upgrade WXGA+ Mid-2010 15" 2.4GHz i5 MBP to WSXGA+ Antiglare possible?

Hello fine folks,
My girlfriend recently had an accident with her Mid-2010 MacBook Pro, and the LCD panel needs to be replaced.
Unfortunately, it was purchased in haste and as such, it's a base-configuration 15" machine with the glossy 1440x900 screen, and lowly 2.4GHz i5. Further, AppleCare was not purchased for the machine and the original warranty is a thing of the past. In any case, it has been upgraded with 8GB of RAM and a 500GB 7200rpm hard drive, making it a perfectly serviceable machine, if not an absolute screamer.
Given that we now need to replace the LCD, I'm wondering if it might be possible to kill two birds with one stone and upgrade to a high-resolution 1680x1050 LCD at the same time, preferably Antiglare.
I imagine I would need to acquire a whole new clamshell from an Antiglare model. Assuming I could come across such an item, would it be as simple as removing the old clamshell with the broken LCD and installing the new clamshell? Would there be any incompatibilities between the existing logic board/display subsystem and the high-res LCD panel?
I am perfectly comfortable doing such surgery myself.
Many thanks for any input/experience!
Bests,
--Jeff

Certainly not... but I'd rather source a complete antiglare clamshell lid and slap it on myself thus upgrading the machine, as long as I know I wouldn't have to replace the logic board as well... I've done plenty of surgery on notebooks, from removing a stuck business-card shaped CD from a 12" PowerBook G4 (requiring *complete* disassembly of the machine) to swapping ThinkPad T61 motherboards into T60 chassis creating a 15" 4:3 IPS FrankenPad which can take 8GB of ram... so I can handle swapping a display.
Local apple store hasn't told me clearly whether or not it's possible, just that they will only replace it with the original screen...
I can only find one logic board part # for a 2.4GHz mid-2010 15" MBP, which suggests to me that upgrading the screen should be no problem, but I'd love to hear from someone who's done it or can give a definitive answer as to whether or not it's possible...

15in early 2011 MBP, Can I get the screen replaced w Hi-res Antiglare?

I have a 15 Macbook pro early 2011. I was wondering if apple could replace the current screen with the hi-res antiglare screen.

It'll cost the same amount of money as your computer did at first. If you just got your MBP (and you bought it directly from Apple via a store or online) go exchange it.

Retina vs. Hi Res Antiglare screen? New MBP

I am looking to pick up a new 15" MBP and am torn between the two.
(my simple in store tests didn't prove one to outshine the other, except I love the weight of the rMBP)
Portability is key since I travel and work in 4 locations in my studio alone.
I will be using it attached to the thunderbolt 27" display about 60% of the time.
Comparing the two mid range with the same processor speed (2.6GHz) and memory (8GB)
Here is my main question:
(The antiglare with 1TB Serial ATA Drive vs. the rMBP 550 flash drive.)
Is the 1tb actually more computer compared to the faster more stable flash drive?
..........then you aren't giving up the FireWire or drive?
(As I understand it there is a workaround with the FireWire for my external drives using the thunderbolt display dock)
I am guessing we will have a thunderbolt FireWire 800 available to us as soon as next month?
?How are these looking hooked up to the thunderbolt display?
Any additional considerations here?
I don't really do gaming or film editing at this point. Architect (Cad/ Vectorworks) and photo editing (adobe PS and AI) and streaming movies are my heaviest uses. Transitioning from a 17" MBP 4.1 w/ anti glare screen: 4 GB 2009
Besides the iPad I have never had a glossy screen so I have no idea if the glare will be an issue. I don't work outside very often at this point.
Appreciate any insight.

Looking at them side-by-side, the Retina display is much less glossy than the standard glossy screen, but not as 'matte' as the antiglare screen.
I just wouldn't buy a Retina display just now - all Office applications look pixelated and fuzzy, as do all Adobe CS6 applications. Rumor has it that there is a Retina display version of Photoshop in the works but Adobe has remained mum on it since it was 'previewed' at the June WWDC. I just couldn't buy a Retina just now - very few major software companies (other than Apple) have versions that support the Retina display.
If I were you, I'd go with the most beefed-up high-res antiglare MBP that you can afford. I've also added 16GB of RAM, allowing me to run dozens of RAM-hungry apps concurrently, and added a SSD, speeding up everything. I also recently added an Apple Thunderbolt Display - beautiful, functional, but glossy!
Best,
Clinton

Best way to clean 2010 MBP antiglare screen

Hi guys,
Anyone got any tips on the best way to clean the antiglare screen on 2010 MBPs?
I have a couple of fingerprint smudges etc. on it but haven't wanted to attempt to clean it with anything as I don't know much about the surface of the screen (and therefore what might potentially ruin it!)
Thanks!

Do not use any cleaning agents other than pure (preferably distilled) water, so no residue is left.
Have 2 soft cloths. Dampen one, wipe the screen with it in even up/down motion, and then immediately dry up the screen with the dry cloth, so no streaks are left. Do not rub too much, just gently mop up the thin film of water.
This works really well for finger prints and stuck dust.
If you only have a few dust specs, try compressed can of air first.

Contrast ratio of MBP 17" widescreen antiglare mid 2010

Hi there, I'm about to calibrate my new MBP 17" ([email protected]) widescreen antiglare mid 2010 with LaCie Blue Eye Pro. Now I'm looking for the contrast ratio of this screen. I couldn't find it in the tech docs. Anyone?

They are not in the tech docs, I believe, since the supplier may change from quarter to quarter or production run to production run. If you go into System Preferences -> Displays -> Color -> Color LCD -> Open Profile and look for a Model number. You can use that to google for hits of manufacturer make and model, and hopefully link out to specs that way.
Other than that, there are published measurements in some reviews for past models (Tom's Hardware did one about a year or tow ago - they had to compute contrast based on measured peak brightness and black level). Every review I have ever seen has reported contrast ratio's as computed from the review's own measurements, not from product specs.

MBP's antiglare display = LCD

This year in january I bought a new MBP with the new LED display. First thing I noticed then, was the huge difference in image quality and luminosity. Different colors though, but with the proper calibration seemed to be ok even for correcting photos. The downside of the LED for me was the highly reflective surface that killed my eyes in no time. I couldn't say it was entirely because of that, but my reading glasses went one number up in less than 6 months.
When that MBP suffered an unfortunate accident and became almost unusable I decided to by a new one. I looked up on the Apple's online store and decided to get the "Antiglare display" for an EXTRA $50. Honestly, I haven't seen a single word anywhere saying that "antiglare" actually means LCD.
So I got my new $2600 MBP just a couple of weeks ago. I must confess my jaw dropped when I saw the LCD. I figure now the extra $50 were for the labour....changing the LED with an LCD.... because the quality of the LCD is definitely lower than the LED.
As I am really ****** off about it, I wonder if there's anything I could do about it... I don't think I can return it because it has an optional 7200 rpm HDD... I remember since my first Mac that BTO Macs cannot be returned.
And I'm just curious how does this look and sound to everybody else. I wouldn't have bought it if I knew it came with an LCD.

Zeniamin wrote:
So I would appreciate a more detailed explanation on the LED glossy vs LED-LCD technology.
As for now, my new LCD-like-LED display is not satisfying enough with the exception of the missing glare of course.
Thank you for the answer anyway.
Your MacBook does NOT have and LED display.
Both your glossy and your matte finish MacBooks have LED-backlit displays. In days past Apple laptops had CCFL-backlit displays. Now they are LED-backlit.
The displays are now, and always have been, Liquid Crystal Display technologies. The Apple laptop displays have never been Light Emitting Diode technology EXCEPT for the source of backlighting in the current LCD displays.
CCFL stands for cold cathode florescent lamp
LED stands for light emitting diode
Both the CCFL and the LED are used for one purpose in the Apple LCD and that is to provide a source of white light behind the liquid crystal elements.
The majority of home computer users as well as technology writers do not have any understanding of what LCD and LED mean let alone CCFL. They are clueless how the technologies even work. They, like you, think that a computer display is either LED or LCD.
Google around a bit for LCD and learn how liquid crystals are used to produce an image by virtue of blocking some light and passing some light. It is a very fascinating subject. Do the same for LED. Learn what an LED is and what is required to make a bunch of little tiny light sources produce an image. Both of these use the same principal as the CRT in that they all 3 provide little sources of colored light that shine into your eyes.
The CRT and the LED actually produce light that your eyes see. The LCD does not produce light but rather depends upon an external source of light to shine through the LCD elements (little colored windows) then on to your eyes.
It is very fascinating technology to me and seems well worth anyones time to read about it.

Spyder3 or i1 Display2 for the MBP 17" antiglare ?

Hi!
My new MBP 17" antiglare will arrive in three days, and I'm thus deciding which new calibrator to buy (my old Monaco Optix (the old one, not the XR/DTP-94) is definitely not up to the task).
I've read almost everything I could find on both the Spyder3 and the Display2, and somewhere I read that the Display2 is not able to correctly calibrate LED-backlit displays (such as the MBP one).
I would prefer to go the Display2 route, because it seems to be a little more accurate than the Spyder3, but the later seems to have no problem calibrating both LED-backlit and wide-gamut displays.
The Munki is not an option because of the out-of-budget price point (£335 vs £165 for the D2 and £137 for the Spyder), and the fact that right now I don't need the ability to profile the printer (the epson stock profiles work well enough) and the fact that I read contrasting reviews on its capabilities.
So, the question is: does anyone know (by experience) if the Display 2 is usable with LED-backlit displays, and in particular with the 17" antiglare ?
Thank you all,
Franz

Pink, powdery and badly banded....
I simply don't see those problems on the machines I currently keep calibrated. Those include...
MacBook 13 inch Unibody
MacBook Pro 13 inch
MacBook Pro 17 Unibody
MacBook Pro 17
MacBook core 2 duo 13 inch
MacBook core duo 13 inch
PowerBook 12 inch
JVC RS2 projector
That covers a fair number of different LCD panels and backlights. The native grayscale of those panels dramatically differ from one another, but post calibration the results are far better than without calibration.
The all end up with quite good grayscale matching and minimal banding. I use a gamma target of 2.4 and 6500K white point.
An yes, I do this with the i1 display probe mounted 8 inches away from the screens to further RESTRICT the acceptance angle to only that which is emitted at right angles from the LCD screen. Off angle light contaminates readings particularly on LCD displays. The i1 display (at least the original one) handles light sources with highly variant spectral content (CFL, LED, and HID) with aplumb.
I agree the Spyder 2 was quite problematic. Try calibration with that probe on the screen in both the upright and upside down orientation ----> different results! Also, humidity could alter the characteristics of the trichromatic filters. Sounds like the Spyder 3 was improved, but I don't have any experience with that one.
Admittedly, on an old Toshiba laptop running Vista, I don't get a good grayscale and see an obvious color cast. Then one appearance of the Vista UAC dialog and even that calibration goes out the door. TG we're on a Mac's

MBP 15" Gloss or Antiglare

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