ML on SSD - clone or download?

Hi,
I ordered a new Mac Mini, and I am considering to put a SSD drive in it, as described here:
-->http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIMM11D2/
Obviously, I want the SSD to be the boot drive, what is the best way to get OSX on it:
* Download it from the App Store
* Clone it from the original stock HDD with Carbon Copy Cloner
To me, cloning seems the easiest way, but are there any disadvantages to this?

My mini is a mid 2011 MiniServer so, I had 2 500GB drives inside. Pulled them both I am planning on adding a 1TB internaly next month in addition to my SSD.
But, back to you question. I moved my iTunes & iPhoto Libraries to my now external striped Raid
I do believe I just copied the iTunes folder onto my new raid moved the old library to the trash then started iTunes while holding the "option" key itunes should ask for a library then just point it to where you moved your library

Similar Messages

Transactions asking for tx.ssd file to download

Hi,
When I am running the CRM transactions or the BW queries from the Portal to any other system, I am getting the message as to download the file <i>tx.ssd</i>.
When I cancel the file, the page shows nothing.
So wht are the necessary changes I have to make to avoid this message?
Pls help

DO you have sap logon pad installed? WIth the necessary entry for your CRM system?

How was replacement SSD able to download and install Mavericks?

This has puzzled me for 2 years.
A friend bought a new Mac mini and bravely (!!!!) replaced the hard drive with a third party SSD.
He told me that the moment he switched the mini on it connected with the App Store and downloaded and installed Mavericks.
How could it do this when it had no operating system whatsoever and no recovery partition, as these had presumably disappeared along with the original hard drive?

Hello!
His Mac Mini had an Internet Recovery Partition
It's explained here:
OS X: About OS X Recovery - Apple Support
if your startup drive encounters an issue, or if your startup drive has been replaced or erased. Internet Recovery lets you start your Mac directly from Apple's servers.

Macbook Pro 2011 will not book Mavericks from SSD (I have tried E.V.E.R.Y.T.H.I.N.G.)

I have a late 2011 15" i7 MBP with 10GB of RAM (8GB + 2GB) running Mavericks 10.9.1 that I want to install an internal SSD on and run just the OS and all of my apps off of, while keeping my Home folder with all of my media on the orignal HDD. I researched online for OS X compatible and recommended SSDs and baught a Kingston 120GB SSD (http://www.kingston.com/us/ssd/v#sv300s3). I also researched and found the most recomended way to do so was with an MCE Optibay (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OBSxGB- UNB&Category_Code=STORHDOPTIBAY&Product_Count=3). I baught and installed them with no problem. I took out the super drive and replaced it with the Optibay which I placed the original 500GB HDD in, then I installed the SSD into the main hard drive slot. I manually booted the Macbook (holding "option") from the HDD. Using Disk Utility I then erased the entire (brand new, already empty) SSD in the -Mac OS Extended (Journaled)- format and Partitioned it as a single drive with the -GUID Partition Table- scheme and the -Mac OS Extended (Journaled)- format. I then used the recomended program "Carbon Copy Cloner" and cloned my HDD to my SSD. When it finished with no problems I changed the Startup Disk in System Preferences to the SSD and restarted. When the Macbook booted it made the loud Apple "dunnnnn" as it always does, then instead of the Apple logo appearing a gay circle with a diagonal line through it appeared (like on a "no smoking" sign), I later found this error to backed the "Apple prohibation sign". After showing this error for about 20 seconds, the Apple logo appeared as normal, and after about 30 seconds my log-in screen showed up and I was able to log in. The only thing I can imagine happened is that it couln't read the OS from the SSD so it defaulted over to the HDD and booted from there. After this happened I researched online for suggestions and fixes to this problem and tried EVERY single one that I found.
Below is a list of every trouble shooting option I did (that I can rememember right now) and none of them worked (making sure to wipe the SSD properly between new attempts):
--Use CCC to clone everything on HDD except Home Folder to SSD
--Use CCC to clone entire HDD to SSD
--Use Disk Utility to clone everything on HDD except Home Folder to SSD
--Use Disk Utility to clone entire HDD to SSD
--Clone HDD to SSD with CCC, then remove HDD from Macbook, forcing it to boot only from SSD
--Download a clean copy of Mavericks from the App Store and directly install it to the SSD then manually boot from the SSD
--Download a clean copy of Mavericks from the App Store and install to a USB thumb drive via DiskMaker X app (http://liondiskmaker.com/), boot manually to the USB OS X installer, then install the OS to SSD via startup
--Download a clean copy of Mountain Lion from the App Store and install it to a USB thumb drivevia DiskMaker X app (http://liondiskmaker.com/), boot manually to the USB OS X installer, then install the OS to SSD via startup
--Put the HDD in its original place and put the SSD in the Optibay (this lead to more problems)
///--As I was cloning the HDD to the SSD with CCC it got to my one of my apps, "Audacity", and said that one of the files had a problem and couldn't clone it, so I just deleted the app entirely.
///--I went to reformat and partition the SDD again because CCC cloned about 5GB from the HDD to the SSD, and as I was erasing the SSD it said "failed to umnount disk". Then I tried to just partition it and got the same error. So I placed the SSD back into the main drive slot and put the HDD back into the Optibay. I booted from the HDD, went back into Disk Utility and was able to format and partition the SDD.
Every single time I tried to boot from the SSD after trying every fix and trouble shoot I would get the "Apple Prohibation" sign. Between yesterday and today I have spent upwards of 20 hours reading about solutions to this via blogs, forums, and websites, doing these trouble shooting techniques, and talking on the phone with Apple tech support, Apple store technitians, and Apple registered local computer store employees.
I also read that the SATA cable or SSD is sometimes faulty and turns out to be the cause in this issue, but there is no way of actually checking for that, and I am able to read and write to the SSD and HDD which are both connected via the SATA cable, so I don't think it's the SATA cable or the SSD.
Please if anyone has any other suggestions that I have not mentioned or was able to do an internal SSD install and clone their HDD to it with no problems at all afterwords, tell me how!!!

You did everything 'right' and yet in most cases such as you present, it turns out to be a bad SATA cable 99% of the time.
I, too, have a Late 2011 15" model and never had a problem with my SATA cable and my SSD. Most people don't. But then there are those few who do.
You can likely find a 'warrantied' cable on www.ifixit.com - however, I've never heard of anyone having problems with the much less expensive options on eBay!
Clinton

X120e SSD woes

Hello to everyone on the forum. I'm in an exacerbating situation.
The short story is this.
I purchased 7 x120e's , one for myself and 6 for my traveling sales reps. I need Win XP 32bit installed on all units in order to utilize existing software and office printers / copiers that don't have available Win 7 / 64bit drivers. In addition, I purchased 7 Vertex 2 SSD's.
My goal was to successfully install and configure the OS on the x120e, then clone the other drives to install on the remaining 6 x120e's, then change the license keys at the time of activation and customize as necessary.
or..... use SYSPREP on the completed SSD, clone it onto the remaining 6 SSD's, and then install them in the rermaining 6 x120e's.
I slip streamed the AHCI drivers using nlite to create a new XP install CD. I've done this on other installs in the past with success.
The long story is this:
I simply cannot get past the BSOD once the OS does it's final boot into Windows. Whether I change the BIOS setting to AHCI or compatibility mode, it just won't work. I broke down and purchased a USB floppy drive to install at F6 and still BSOD on fresh install from retail full version XP on final boot.
I can only get the install to fully complete on a standard IDE drive with BIOS setting in compatibility mode. If I clone the working IDE drive to the SSD then BSOD.
The BSOD error is the following: 0x000000ED (0X8B6F828, 0xC000014F, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)
Here is the kicker, at one point by accident, I rebooting the SSD with the USB DVD dvd still connected and with the XP CD inside. At boot-up when the screen read "Press any key to boot from CD ....." I let it go, and THEN it booted into XP on the SSD. Without the USB dvd drive and XP cd connected, it won't boot into windows as it will get the BSOD written above. Poking around the fresh install of XP, I can see that in the device manager, the standard PCI IDE controllers are installed. I went ahead to install all the x120e XP drivers, and did so successfully by keeping the USB dvd drive connected for all the reboots, otherwise BSOD.
I have everything in good working order in the device manager. If I elect to hibernate or sleep, I can get back into XP no problems. Only after a shut down and cold boot will I get the BSOD.
Doing some more reseach, the BSOD listed is defined as an unmountable boot volume. A few Microsoft articles on the matter describe the issues and suggests going into recovery mode and performing a chkdsk /r and a fixboot. I did both but did not fix the BSOD. Another article describes the problem where the drive, the SSD in this case, is attempting to write faster than the driver being loaded at boot time. So I boot back into XP using my work around, and in the primary IDE channel properties, the current transfer mode is listed as "Ultra DMA mode 6".
Now I'm thinking, there might be the problem. With the USB dvdrom attached at boot-time along with the XP cd, it must be loading a differerent driver to use which mounts the SSD???
The madness........
I can only surmise that the BSOD is caused by the AHCI drivers not installed, and that the SSD is demanding them at the time of boot.
So, for the love of GOD and all humanity, how does one get AHCI enabled and installed for XP pre or post installation? How can I load and install the drivers for SATA?
F6 and a USB floppy won't work. It seems the ATI driver package has the chipset drivers imbedded within their software. If I point to the "Drivers" folder on "C" and try to update the driver for the PCI IDE controller it won't. I've tried the regisrtry hacks for post XP install, won't work. I've tried to "add hadware", that doesn't work.
The madness continues.......
As a total goof, I "borrowed" my wifes Asus 1015PEM netbook. BIOS is set to AHCI. I made a new XP cd slipstreaming the intel AHCI drivers. I removed the factory SATA, installed the same SSD I was using for the x120e, booted to the XP cd, installed XP, installed all the necessary post install drivers, no problems whatsoever. Then I switched BIOS to IDE mode, formatted the SSD, and proceded to install XP, no problems whatsoever. Looking in the device manager the transfer mode is listed as Ultra DMA mode 6. ARRRG...... Then I modified a reg file to merge into the registry, downloaded intel matrix storage manager for the drivers and successfully updated the IDE controller driver to the AHCI intel chipset. Rebooted, went into BIOS, switched from IDE to ACHI, booted into XP no problems, not one BSOD either way and no USB cdrom attached. Why does the Asus boot fine with the same SSD and XP in UDMA 6????
So in conclusion:
For the love of GOD, I'm begging anyone for a solution or ideas for the x120e BSOD with SSD and XP problem.
Thinkpad BIOS 1.08 updated to current 1.11
OCZ Vertex 2 SSD BIOS 1.29 updated to current 1.32
XP full retail SP3
edit: I forgot to mention that I cloned the original x120e drive (Win7 64bit with AHCI enabled) to the SSD and no BSOD. The x120e is an E350.
Best Regards, be safe
Jack

Hello Aryeh,
Yes that is correct. If I perform a fesh XP install, hit F6, choose the drivers from the floppy, it seems to take it. The XP install continues to the point where it needs a final reboot in order to get into the freshly installed OS. I've always had the habit of ejecting the XP cd from the drive at final boot to avoid booting up the cd. Without the XP cd in the drive, then BSOD 0x7E.
If I keep the USB dvd connected with the XP OS cd in it, on a cold boot, I'll get asked to press any key to boot from the CD. If I don't press anything, then no BSOD and boots into XP. Then I can install all the x120e drivers and software listed in the matrix and conect to MS to perform windows updates. But throughout this process there are many reboots, so the only way to complete is to leave the USB dvd connected with the XP cd in it so that on every reboot it asks to press any key to boot from the cd, I don't press any keys, and it boots into XP.
When all is said and done, if I shut down the OS, disconnect the USB dvd, and boot cold, BSOD 0x7E. This ONLY happens when installing XP on a SSD.
My work around right now on the one x120e is to hibernate or sleep, but if the battery goes dead, or I need to reboot after a software install or windows update, or if I accidently shutdown, I'd need the USB dvd connected with the XP cd, or I'd never reach the OS because of BSOD. Can't even get into safe mode, BSOD.
I certainly can't give out the other 6 x120e's this way as I need a fix for this. I don't want to buy 7 standard hd's just for this, and I don't want to format the hd's that came with the thinkpad as I want to preserve Win7 for future use when we phase out older software and devices in the next couple of years. I guess I could attempt a dual boot on the original thinkpad hd's but not give a choice to boot into Win7.
But the bottom line is that XP should work on the SSD. I also used another floppy disk thinking maybe the files transfered were corrupt, and in nlite made sure I used the text-mode driver.
Thank you for your interest and participation,
Best Regards,
Jack

W510 and SSD

Hi,
I have a W510 and right now, I have Seagate Momentus XT 750 GB as my hard drive. I bought a "OCZ Technology 256GB Vertex 4 Series SATA 6.0 GB/s" and installed it as my new internal HDD and tried to install Win8 on it. However, I got a "Error 2100:hdd0 (hard disk drive) initialization error". This was intermittant, as I was able few times to boot without getting this issue, but when I tried to install Win8, I wouldn't get past the very first step (which is basically the copying files and before the wizard starts). I tried to install Win7, it worked, but I kept on getting intermittant "Error 2100:hdd0 (hard disk drive) initialization error" messages on reboots or after a completely shutdown.
I took the SSD out and put it in my wife's laptop which is a VIAO older than my W510. It recorginzed immediately and I was able to install Win8 on it without any issues. I took the SSD out of the VIAO and put it back in my W510, Win8 updated the devices and I was able to login to Win8 and use it. However, I kept on getting intermittant "Error 2100:hdd0 (hard disk drive) initialization error" messages on reboots or after a completely shutdown. So I took it out of the W510 and put it back in the VIAO and kept it there.
My question is: Does W510 have issues with all SSDs or just the above Vertex model? I want to see if I can buy a different SSD and use it in my W510.
P.S, I have the latest firmware for all the hardware I have.
I hope someone can help me here.
Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I successfully installed a SSD on my W510 using a different method.
Initially I bought a SanDisk Extreme 480 GB and the SanDisk Conversion (clone) Kit. A half hour for setup and coffee thinking it over, and two hours to run the clone. Swap out the SSD clone and it is working well with just a couple of annoyances that go with doing new things that aren't perfect.
Later I decided to recover the 480 for another use and replace it with a Samsung 840 Series 500 GB SSD. The instructions for this are pictures and I found them unclear. The 500 comes with a disk. I was unable to clone or update the firmware on the 500 using the disk.
So I grabbed the disk from the SanDisk kit and cloned the 500 in about two hours without any problems. Installation was a swap out and I have been running without any annoyances, too.
I suggest going to the SanDisk URL, downloading the clone software and running it to perform your Samsung clone.
http://www.apricorn.com/products/software/ezgig.html
Watch out you don't have less than 15% space on the new SSD or Windows will tell you there is a space problem. SSD's, unlike HDD's don't like to be crowded.
W540 20GBCTO, Ultra Dock, W520, 4270CTO, W510, 4318CTO; (2)T500, 2081CTO; Y560, 064657U, Y530, 405166U; T61p, 6465CTO, A31p, and L2461x Multi-touch Monitor, Mini Dock Plus Series 3

How to install SSD as a boot drive for Snow leopard? I am confused...

Hello; This is first time I will use SSD on my macpro. I ordered the SSD from amazon and it will come next week I hope. I need some help and advice. My boot drive is HDD (Macintosh HD) now. So, I Want to move from the HDD to SSD. What's the easiest and guarentee way to do it? I am not a good technician. I've read about carbon copy cleaner or disk utility to back-up everything to another drive, boot from there then select the SSD. Is this needed? Cant I just directly copy my application and operation System to SSD? How about using the installation disc and directly install to the SSD? I am confused. What do you suggest? Please help
My system:
Macpro early 2008 (3.1)
OS 10.6.8
SSD is samsung 840 series 256 GB... (Since My macpro dont use SATA 3, I didnt see any reason to invest more money and buy 840 pro series or 830 series)

Hi, There are any number of different ways to move the data from one drive to another. My preference (the last one) would be to do a clean fresh install using system disks because of the way SSD drive's lay down data.
I'm not going to go into detail laying out HOW you do this. I assume you can do a Google (or other) engine search for details.
1) SystemMigration - this is a built in MAC OS X utility that allows you to move system + data from one drive to another
2) Do a Time Machine backup of everything and then use TM to restore everything the way it is or REINSTALL a clean install of the data+new system on the replacement drive.
3) Carbon copy Cloner is a great cloning application and can "block clone" from a smaller drive to a replacement drive of the same or larger size
The above 3 methods assume you will transfer ALL the date, good bad & ugly, from the magnetic media to the SSD. This is the most efficient method, but from personal experience you may end up not getting
the faster boot up time and disk responsiveness you would expect from an SSD. I can't say why; it may have to do with the way data is initially "laid down" on the SSD OR all the extra "jetsam and flotsam" that accompanies a used system drive - "(how's THAT for non techno-geek detail).
I have noticed that Drive clones are only as good as the source from which they are taken and that when I cloned a magnetic Lion 10.6 Drive to an SSD, there was no significant advantage in boot times with a 10.6 Lion boot taking anywhere from 45 to 60 to 75 seconds (pretty much he same for magnetic drives).
I then did an original clean system install on the SSD as if I were doing it for the first time....updated it completely and THEN and only then did I reinstall all the apps individually followed by cloining the data files.
By doing this, I was able to cut the boot time on that SSD (and all subsequent ssd clones of the original SDD) to 25 to 30 seconds.
NOT BAD. Just simply cloning what you already have is a simple option, but if you're looking for optimal SSD performance, I'd opt for a fresh clean instll of everything.

'Matched' Songes downloading with same (lower) bit rate.

Well this problem must been mentioned before but it seems hard to find in these forums - for me at least. I have found a few cases where people have confused 'uploaded' for 'matched' - but this is certainly not the case here. Though Itunes may be confusing the terms by the looks of it
Quite simply: several lower bitrate songs are shown in my library with 'Matched' as their icloud status. However when I delete them and download them from icloud, they come back with exactly the same bitrate as if they has been simply 'uploaded'. This happens to me on two different libraries on a Mac and a PC respectively (same account though)!
Is this simply a known bug - a work in progress?
Perhaps there is already a thread about this in which case could someone point me to it?

i have also noticed this recently. let me explain a bit of the background
had a mac mini which i bought itunes match on and replaced some (not all) of my mpeg files with matched AAC files.
i then bought a macbook air but because of the small size of the SSD did not download the matched AAC files to it. at this point i pretty much stopped using my mini to manage my music and just used to MBA to add / stream files.
due to some amendments i wanted to make to some of the track info on an album i downloaded it. even though it was fully matched i was surprised to see some of the songs downloading as matched mpeg's. i was pretty certain they used to all be AAC files.
sure enough i went back to my mini and noticed that the album had originally downloaded all tracks as matched AAC files. i have checked the file thoroughly to ensure it isn't corrupt or anything and it plays perfectly. as a test i then deleted the AAC file and redownloaded to see what came up, it downloaded as an mpeg!
my questions to apple would be
why are these files now reverting back to mpeg's after being matched originally?
and (perhaps more importantly) HOW did they get this file to upload? is it even MY mpeg or someone else's that uploaded? as i have stated originally it matched so no uploading would ever have taken place.
this isn't a one off i might add. i thoroughly checked my entire library of 10,000 songs and have over 300 instances of this happening where i originally had the matched AAC file and am now left with an mpeg.
more strange itunes match behaviour. coupled with the constant 11111 error, the long 'sending information to apple' time and the clean / explicit debacle equals very shoddy service so far. and no word from apple on fixes or even an aknowledgement this is happening. poor.

Downloaded files will not move or allow to be edited?

Hi, I hope this is the correct place to ask this question.
I currently have two hard drives, a HDD and SSD with HDD as the windows install/main drive.
When I download files from google chrome, they go straight into my SSD in a 'downloads' folder.
A few days ago it wouldn't let me access this folder, just took forever to load and never actually opened. I eventually did some googling and found out It was optimized for photos. I changed this to general files and now I can access it again. However when
I download files to this location some become unmoveable so to speak. I download a lot of music to this folder and whenever I try to move some files, even just an individual file, it regularly comes up with "discovering items".
Now for the files that do move, windows won't allow me to edit them (ie: Artist/Title/Tags, etc)
The only way i've got around this is by copying the files, pasting them all to have (1) at the end and then moving them files. It will still, however, not let me delete the original files. I can open them, listen to the mp3 tracks, but not move them or delete
them.
Can anyone help? Would be much appreciated.
Thanks :)

Hi Steven,
Have you tried to put another file manually into this folder to check if this file could edit it?
Please check if you have sufficient permission for this folder.
The details, please refer to this guide:
Set, View, Change, or Remove Permissions on Files and Folders
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc754344.aspx
In addition, you could change the download location as the chrome official guide:
Change download locations
https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/95574?hl=en
Karen Hu
TechNet Community Support

RapidDrive (SSD and HDD hybrid option)

Hi there,
I just tried to purchase a thinkpad or an ideapad laptop (in Australia) with Lenovo's RapidDrive option and found out it was not available anymore. A quick call to support confirmed this - Lenovo got rid of RapidDrive offering.
I am wondering whether an SSD/HDD hybrid offering either form Lenovo or any other alternative (eg from Intel) is planned to be introduced back into thinkpad line in the near future? have you heard anything?
Mike

Intel is planning on something similar to what RapidDrive was with their SRT that can be paired with the 311 series of SSD. http://download.intel.com/design/flash/nand/325502.pdf ; http://www.anandtech.com/show/4329/intel-z68-chipset-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching-review/2 .
I think these will become part of Ivy Bridge Laptops.
When asking for help, post your question in the forum. Remember to include your system type, model number and OS. Do not post your serial number.
Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!
If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"! This will help others with the same question in the future.
My TPs: Twist 2HU: i5-3317U Win 8 Pro, 4GB RAM 250GB Samsung 840 | T420 4177CTO: i5-2520M, HD+, Win 7 Pro x64, 8GB RAM, Optimus, 160GB Intel 320 SSD, Intel 6300 WiFi, BT 3.0 | T400 2764CTO: P8700, WXGA, Win 7 Ult x64, AMD 3470, 8GB RAM, 64GB Samsung SSD, BT, Intel 5300 WiFi | A20m 14.1" PIII 500 (retired). Monitors: 2x Dell U2211h IPS 100% sRGB calibrated w/ Spyder3.

Tx.ssd - WinGui transaction iView

Hi,
I have created a system, though not sure it has been completely successful. The connection-test gives a green light, but the transaction test found at System Administration/SAP Application/SAP Transaction (with proper data filled in) returns a dialog box asking me to download a file called tx.ssd. Unfortunately, downloading it does not help.
The same box appears when I try to preview an SAP transaction iView with WinGui (which is what I am trying to do).
The portal version is 6.0 SP 14. Sap WinGui is installed on the client accessing and browsing the portal, and the PCD path is less than 255 characters.
Does anyone know of a solution to this problem?
Suggestions will be highly appreciated, and solutions highly awarded!
Regards,
Stina.

HI Stina
Since the SAP GUI is not installed on server so u r unable to see the iview created with wingui
and u got message file download tx.ssd (open save)
wingui is installed on client machine so u r able to see the iview
if u have ITS installed than creat a webgui iview
and also configure ITS in Portal system
regards,
kaushal

W510 and 940XM

Anyone installed the i7-940XM Engineering Sample(ES) CPU in their W510?
Does it work good? thermal sensors working on CPU?
I am considering upgrading mine.

I successfully installed a SSD on my W510 using a different method.
Initially I bought a SanDisk Extreme 480 GB and the SanDisk Conversion (clone) Kit. A half hour for setup and coffee thinking it over, and two hours to run the clone. Swap out the SSD clone and it is working well with just a couple of annoyances that go with doing new things that aren't perfect.
Later I decided to recover the 480 for another use and replace it with a Samsung 840 Series 500 GB SSD. The instructions for this are pictures and I found them unclear. The 500 comes with a disk. I was unable to clone or update the firmware on the 500 using the disk.
So I grabbed the disk from the SanDisk kit and cloned the 500 in about two hours without any problems. Installation was a swap out and I have been running without any annoyances, too.
I suggest going to the SanDisk URL, downloading the clone software and running it to perform your Samsung clone.
http://www.apricorn.com/products/software/ezgig.html
Watch out you don't have less than 15% space on the new SSD or Windows will tell you there is a space problem. SSD's, unlike HDD's don't like to be crowded.
W540 20GBCTO, Ultra Dock, W520, 4270CTO, W510, 4318CTO; (2)T500, 2081CTO; Y560, 064657U, Y530, 405166U; T61p, 6465CTO, A31p, and L2461x Multi-touch Monitor, Mini Dock Plus Series 3

Time Machine takes very long time to back up with new large drive

I started using Time Machine on my 17" MBP about a month ago. I was using a 250 GB Samsung drive. When I discovered that TM will back up other external drives (I have several firewire pocket drives), I purchased a 500 GB Cavalry drive with USB 2.0 and eSATA connections. The first backup of my MBP drive (about 85 GB) took several hours (4-6?). I backed up one of my pocket drives (about 60 GB), which took 3-4 hours. Then, when I changed the back-up drive in Time Machine to the new 500 GB drive with the eSATA connection, I stopped it after an hour, because only 2 GB had been backed up. I erased the drive and restarted using the USB connection. It backed up 3 GB in an hour. So, now I'm back to using the original back-up drive. I've performed benchmark tests on all drives (the Samsung 250, Cavalry USB and eSATA 500 GB, and the MBP internal drive) with Xbench. The USB speeds on the Samsung and Cavalry drives came out about the same with a slight edge to the Cavalry drive. The eSATA connection with the Cavalry drive operated at over twice the speed of the USB connections and at about twice the speed of the MBP internal drive (which is a 1.5 Gb/s SATA drive). Basically, I can't figure out why Time Machine takes so incredibly long to back up when I switched to the new drive. Any ideas?
Jeff

It took me 20 hours to backup 32GB out of 65. I don't know why. Using carbon copy clone to download to another backup drive I did it perfectly in about 30 minutes. I expect that those appllications which show applicatiions are at fault and will try later getting rid of apps such as F-10 and pathfinderfor the first download. I have no idea why this is so slow. Everything is so slow.

How to restore from Time Machine WITHOUT install discs using a second Mac

It's a question that is asked repeatedly all over the web by Mac users like me that bought in to Time Machine (TM) on the assumption that if their computer died one day it would be a piece of cake to restore from it, only for that day to come and then to be told "ahh, okay the first thing is to get your computers install discs..." (loud crashing sound of world falling around ears).
I've never been able to afford a new Mac and both of my machines were bought second-hand. Neither came with Leopard (both have Tiger and have been upgraded to Leopard via the net). This was never supposed to be a problem as I've been backing up with TM. However it appears that Tiger discs are as much use as an inflatable dart board when it comes to using TM. So I've been faced with the possibility of having to spend £130 (about two hundred Pres Sheets, Yankees) on the Leopard install discs just so that I can have the option of restoring from TM. Bonkers.
However after much nashing of teeth, a very long weekend learning all sorts of things about 'Target Mode', 'Single User Mode', 'Verbose Mode', 'Open Source 9' etc the following solution has worked without the need to go out and buy those over-priced discs...
What you will need:
1 broken Mac requiring restoration
1 second donor Mac running Leopard (or Snow Leopard so long as the broken Mac can run it)
1 firewire cable with the correct fitting at either end to attach both Macs together
1 Time Machine backup
Note: The following is for when you have given up trying to boot from your hard drive. In my case I couldn't boot in to Safe Mode etc. so was forced to format my drive and re-import everything. If you've read this far I'm assuming your at the same point as well and have tried everything else that's out there first.
Also - both my Macs are Power PC's so can't run Snow Leopard, so I can't say 100% this will work with SL (Intel) machines. From what I've read Snow Leopard will work with this procedure too, but if you've found differently please feel free to add your experiences below...
STEP ONE: Format the corrupt Hard Drive or replace with a fresh HDD
*Link the two computers with a firewire.
*If you're replacing your HDD, remove your corrupted hard drive from the 'broken' machine and insert a new one.
*Power up the broken Mac whilst holding down the 'T' key. This will start it up in Target Mode and you'll get a nice firewire symbol floating around that machine's screen.
*Power up the second 'healthy' Mac. This will be our 'donor' machine. When it starts up after a few seconds you will see the hard drive of the broken Mac appear on the donor Mac's desktop.
*Using your donor Mac's 'Disc Utility', format the broken Mac's hard drive (now's the time to partition it etc. if you want to).
STEP TWO: Clone your donor Mac
Your broken Mac is no longer broken and now needs a new OS. But you don't have the discs, right? Well get this... you can clone your donor mac on to your machine, even if they are totally different i.e. a laptop on to a tower.
*Again using Disc Utility, click on your donor Mac's hard drive. The restore tab appears as an option.
*Click on restore and drag the donor Mac's hard drive that contains the operating system in to the Source box.
*Drag the newly formatted hard drive on the broken Mac in to the Destination box.
*Click restore. Your donor Mac's hard drive will now be 'cloned' on to your no-longer-broken Mac. Once this is done, eject the first Mac's hard drive from your donor Mac's desktop. You no longer need the donor Mac.
Ta daa! Your machine now starts up happy and smily again. Time to restore all that stuff that's been sat on your Time Machine drive...
STEP 3: Restore from Time Machine using Migration Assistant
This is the really clever part that prompted me to write this piece in the first place. Time Machine IS accessible without those Leopard install discs you don't have. You need to use something called 'Migration Assistant'.
*Start up your machine as normal and you'll see it is an exact clone of the donor machine. Weird huh?
*Attach your Time Machine hard drive. It will show up as an icon on the desktop and because of it's size, you'll be asked if you want to use it as a Time Machine backup. Err, NO YOU DON'T! Click 'cancel'.
*Open Migration Assistant (if you can't find it just type it in to Finder and click). There are three options, the middle one being to restore from TM or another disc. Yup, you want that one.
*Migration Assistant will now ask you what you want to restore in stages, firstly User Accounts, then folders, Apps etc. It will even import internet settings
And that's you done. Let Migration Assistant do it's thang... altogether I had about 140gb to restore, so it wasn't exactly speedy. This wasn't helped by the fact that my TM hard drive is connected via USB (yes, I know). Just leave it alone and it'll whirr happily away...
Before I go - you don't have an option of when to restore from, and will restore from the last Time Machine save. At least then you should be able to access TM and go 'backwards' if you need to.
Also - for a Mac expert, the above will be up there with 'Spot Goes To The Farm' in terms of complexity. However, for the rest of us the above is only available in fragments all over the net. By far the most common response to 'how do I restore from Time Machine without install discs' is 'you can't'. If I'd found the above information in one place I could have saved a lot of hair pulling and swearing over the last couple of days, so forgive me for sharing this workaround with the rest of the world. Meanwhile your expertise will come in very handy for the inevitable questions that will get posted below, so please feel free to help those people that won't be sure if this solution is the right one for them. I'm no expert, I just want to help people that were stuck in the same situation (and looking at the web, there's a LOT of them).
Hope this is of use to someone, thanks and *good luck*!

Most maintenance and repair, restore and install procedures require the use
of the correct OS X install DVD; be it an original machine-specific restore/install
disc set or a later retail non-specific general install disc set.
By having an unsupported system, perhaps installed via an illegal download or
other file-sharing scheme, where no retail official discs are involved and the
initial upgrade was done by other means outside of the License Agreements,
you are asking us to discuss a matter of illegal installation and use of a product.
There are no legal complete OS X system download upgrades online; only bits
that are update segments to a retail or as-shipped machine's original OS X install.
+{Or an installation where a previous owner had correct retail upgrade discs, &+
+chose to not include them with the re-sale of the computer it was installed in.}+
However, to answer the initial question. To get and use an externally enclosed
hard drive in suitable boot-capable housing, and get a free-running Clone
Utility (download online; often a donation-ware product, runs free) you can
make a bootable backup of everything in your computer to an external HDD.
This is the way to make a complete backup to restore all functions to the computer.
The Time Machine has some limits, in that it can restore only that which it saves.
It does not make a bootable clone of your entire computer system with apps and
your files, to an external drive device. A clone can. And some of the clone utility's
settings can also backup changes to an external drive's system; if that other drive
is attached to the computer correctly.
Carbon Copy Cloner, from Bombich Software; and also SuperDuper, another of
the most known software names you can download and use to clone boot-capable
system backups of your computer's hard disk drive contents, are often cited.
However you resolve the matter of the running OS X system in your computer,
derived from what appears to be questionable means, is part of the initial issue.
Since you do need to be able to fix an existing installation by unmounting the
computer's hard disk drive and run the computer from the other (install disc or
system clone) while it is Unmounted; and use the correct Disk Utility version to
help diagnose and perhaps be able to fix it. You can't use a Tiger version Disk
Utility to fix a Leopard installation, and so on.
So, the situation and replies as far as they can go (since the matter does
constitute an illegal system, if it was arrived at without correct discs) is a
limited one. And file sharing of copied Mac OS X (and other) software is
also considered illegal.
And, one way to get odd malware and unusual stuff, is to get an unauthorized
system upgrade from an illegal source online. You never know what's inside it.
The other reply was not a personal attack; the matter is of legal status and as
you have a product with a questionable system, the answer is to correct it.
And if you want to save everything in your computer, make a clone to a suitable
externally enclosed self-powered boot capable hard disk drive. With older PPC
Macs, that would best be to one with FireWire and the Oxford-type control chips.
However that works out...
Good luck & happy computing!

Complete failure of PC app

This is the story of why I would not recommend the PC app to others and would instead encourage them to use steam, gamestop, or finally actually just going to the store. It started when I installed the app and a few games. I realized I was running out of hard drive space on my small SSD (120 GB) and wanted to install games on my other hard drive (2TB). I contacted live support and they told me geek squad would be able to help me. The first time I contacted geek squad was to try and figure out how to install games into a new location which lots of applications are able to do (iTunes, gamestop app, steam, etc.) and they told me that due to faulty/bad coding you aren't able to do that. I was a little frustrated at first but it wasn't awful, and so I uninstalled the app along with the 2 15+ GB games I had. After I tried to re install it, the PC installer kept insisting that I needed to repair the PC app program and not install it. I contacted the geek squad a second time and this time they told me the only way to uninstall it was to do add/remove programs, which I had already done. I did a little googling while on hold and figured out that the app has lots of hidden folders and miscellaneous folders scattered throughout my SSD. By the time the geek squad member got back on the phone I was told I needed to reinstall it and unistall it to fix the problem. I finished doing that and it just left me where I started and didn't solve anything. At this point I didn't want to contact them anymore due to lack of knowledge and tried to fix the problem myself by using add/remove programs and deleting all the hidden/miscellaneous files around my SSD. I downloaded a fresh copy of the installer from the website and, much to my annoyance, it wanted to repair the application instead of reinstall it . The worse part about it this time was that it would not let me completely reinstall the program, stating that I was missing some files or needed to locate them. I thought this was odd because I was repairing the program so it would replace missing files and if all the files were missing it would just reinstall a fresh copy. So now I am left with $130 of unplayable games purchased through this worthless app and would like either a refund, or hard copies of the games I tried to download to avoid this god-awful program.
Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare - Mac
Model: 11760 | SKU: 5471792
SynopsisTake on the world as both a U.S. Marine and a British S.A.S. Soldier in Call of Duty 4. You'll travel across the globe, relying on your wits and weapons to launch all-out assaults and accomplish invisible missions of stealth. Day or night, be ready to do what must be done. It's the most up-to-date collection of firepower, machinery and military vehicles in the Call of Duty series. Prepare to experience the sophisticated technology and unbelievable graphics of an incredibly realistic warfare experience. Experience tomorrow's war today in an immersive series of land and air strikes. Get the job done using the 70 new advanced weapons at your disposal. Make it to the next skirmish via choppers, jets and gunships before the battle is over. Conceal yourself and lie in wait with such accessories as night-vision goggles and ghillie suits, then bust through enemy strongholds in a display of powerful weaponry. Engage in deadly and thrilling battles against players all over the globe in the community-oriented multiplayer modes that feature a robust leveling system, unlockable perks, matchmaking and more. Re-live your favorite kills with the Kill-Cam, and accomplish more than 100 challenges for additional multiplayer excitement. It all comes together in a saga of cinematic intensity.
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Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 3 - Windows
Model: TEST | SKU: 2670151
SynopsisFight for survival, ensure your mission's success and keep your fellow soldiers safe in epic battles throughout the world as the award-winning Call of Duty franchise makes its triumphant return. Featuring the brutality and intensity that have become cornerstones of this engaging series, Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 3 has you locking and loading for epic battles in which you lay waste to your enemies in devastating hails of gunfire. With the world on the brink of disaster and Makarov stopping at nothing to bring civilization to its knees, you have no choice but to respond. Prepare yourself for adrenaline-pumping, heart-pounding action as you answer the Call of Duty. The thrilling sequel to the multiple Game of the Year award winner, Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2, Modern Warfare 3 launches you into 16 new, objective-based missions that take you from New York to Paris, Berlin and beyond. As you gain experience, prove your worth in order to rank up in the progression system and earn access to more powerful weapons, redesigned Killstreaks, air support, equipment and abilities, all of which are customizable to your liking. Find out if you and your fellow soldiers have what it takes to survive and keep each other alive in the deadliest of conditions as you take on the all-new, cooperative Survival mode that helps you train for battles to come. Step up the action and defend yourself against swarms of rivals as you join the epic multiplayer battles that launched the series to the top of the gaming world. Now, the multiplayer action is even bigger than ever, with a focus on fast-paced, gun-on-gun combat and a bevy of new features, including a gun progression system and enhanced private match customization. Experience the blood, sweat, grit and glory of war when the astounding power of it comes alive in Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 3.
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Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon: Future Soldier - Windows
Model: 68607 | SKU: 9889397
SynopsisIn the near future, the political climate is as volatile as the battlefield — one wrong move could mean the end. A new breed of soldier has risen from the ashes of the scorched society. A soldier who is trained to be better than the best, a soldier that is outfitted with an arsenal of the most high-tech gear ever assembled — a soldier that can disappear. As Kozak, a soldier in an elite U.S. unit, you're the nation's best and only means of retaliating when a nationalist coup unseats Russia's legitimate president. In these fast-paced, high-stakes missions, the future is now. Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon: Future Soldier places you in the elite squadron of Ghost Recon. Entrusted with missions that no other soldier can handle, your special training in combat, survival and discretion allows you to ensure your mission's success while remaining invisible. Prepare to enter some of the world's most explosive warzones and spectacular locales, from Africa to the Arctic Circle, and protect the world from an ever-present threat. Fight the battle without stepping foot on the battlefield as you control all-new, heavily armed, unmanned ground and air combat drones. Arm yourself to the teeth with an arsenal of more than 50 high-tech weapons, fulfill your mission objectives — and disappear.
3 Read reviews (2)
Sale: $49.99

This program is indeed one of the most poorly written pieces of software I've used.
I know this topic is old, but hopefully this will help a few people:
The BBY pc app installer contains an MSI (Windows Installer) package that is the cause of the issue the OP describes. The uninstaller leaves the Windows Installer package behind, and subsequent installs attempt to repair the existing package since it was never removed.
BBY PC App can be fully removed (I've done it for several friends), but it is a complex process. The directions below assume you have an understanding of Windows Explorer.
These directions are provided as-is. Use them at your own risk.They worked for me, but there's no guarantee they'll work for you.
Here's how to remove it (I wrote these directions based upon BBY pc app v3.5.1.2 from Jan 23, 2012):
1. Open Add/Remove Programs (Programs and Features on Vista/7), and remove pc app as you would normally. You may also want to uninstall any software downloaded through PC app.
2. Press Win+R to open Run. Type regedit and click OK. (Editing the registry incorrectly can crash your PC and require you to reinstall Windows. Follow these steps carefully).
3. On the left side, click the + next to the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE registry key to open it. Then repeat to open SOFTWARE, Microsoft, Windows, CurrentVersion, and finally Uninstall.
4. Click on the first folder listed under Uninstall on the left. Look on the right side for the entry named DisplayName, and check to see if the Data is Best Buy PC App. If it is not, select the next folder under Uninstall. Continue to work down the list until you find a folder that has a DisplayName of Best Buy PC App, or until you reach the end of the list.
If you reach the end of the list without finding an entry for best buy pc app, skip to step 8.
5. Write down the name of the folder that contains the Displayname of best buy pc app (the folder name will look something like {FBBC4667-2521-4E78-B1BD-8706F774549B}, numbers and letters might be different ). Close the Registry Editor.
6. Press Win+R, then type the following: msiexec /i<name> SRCDIR=C:\windows\installer (replace <name> with the folder name you wrote down in step 5.) Note that there is NO SPACE between the /i and the <name>
An example that removes 3.5.1.2 is msiexec /i{FBBC4667-2521-4E78-B1BD-8706F774549B} SRCDIR=C:\windows\installer
7. An install wizard with no graphics should appear. If you receive an error or the installer for a different program opens, double check the name of the folder from step 4. Click Next, then click the blank square next to Remove. Confirm the removal.
8. Show hidden files if they are not already shown. To do this, open Control Panel, then select Folder Options. Select the View tab, then choose "Show Hidden Files and Folders" in the list. Click OK and close Control Panel.
Windows 7 users may not see Folder Options in control panel. If this is the case, click "Category" in the upper right corner, and select "Small Icons".
9.
Windows XP users: Press Win+R, then type %ALLUSERSPROFILE%\Application Data Click OK
Windows Vista/7 users: Press Win+R, then type C:\ProgramData Click OK
9. In the window that opens, look for a best buy pc app folder. If it exists, delete the entire folder.
10. Then, look for a folder whose name starts with a curly brace (" { " symbol). If one exists, open it. Verify that best buy pc app setup.exe is inside. If it is, delete the entire folder. Close the window.
11. Navigate to C:\Program Files in Windows explorer. If a best buy pc app folder exists, delete it. (Odds are good that this folder will not be there. The uninstall usually removes it).
12. Press Win+R again, this time type the following and click OK:
If you have Windows XP: %userprofile%\Application Data
If you have Windows Vista or 7: %userprofile%\AppData
13. In the window that opens, look for a best buy pc app folder. If it exists, delete the entire folder. Close the window.
12. Restart your computer.

ML on SSD - clone or download?

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