My new speakers make the most annoying hissing noise!

I have just purchased a set of creative megaworks 250d, now having owned an older set of speakers from creative in the past (dt surround system) i had expected the same good quality sound and craftsmanship.
What did i get? The most annoying hissing sound in the world!
I switch my system on and it gives out an audible hiss which can be heard upto 5-10meters away, this is completely ridiculous and pretty much ruins any sound which isnt played at a loud level!
Ive contacted creative customer support who told me to return my product? well, fat use that is when i got my system from ebay and apparently the entire range does the same thing anyway?
Please no comments about how my system is setup wrong and whether i have power interference, because just to check this i've been to maplins today to buy a power conditioner/filter (which cost me ?100 i may add) and a ground loop isolator, neither of these made any difference at all, still the digital snake invades my ears every time i turn the system on.
Now i dont know what your trying to pull down at creative labs, but i can guarantee you wont be staying in the market lead making 'high quality computer audio products' that are by design defective. I want a valid solution to my problem please, i see 100 other threads on the internet concerning the same thing and quite frankly its not good enough. How much would it have cost you to install a pass filter inline to the amplifier to reduce this hiss? or is there one and its broken? is it the remote like some people are suggesting?

*BUMP* Any solution would be good? im fairly adept with electronics so dont mind taking the unit apart if a technician would like to tell me how to fix this hiss. Would a low pass filter on the speaker line be a good solution or maybe ferrite coils on the positve wire?, would either of those work before i go out and spend yet more money?

Similar Messages

How do you make the most of any "free" services/ca...

I wonder if we can get a consensus of views that could contribute to a sticky on how to get the best value for money from BTBBA (and the other BT services that this is based upon).
I'm constantly confused so please excuse my ignorance:
Calls:
We have three family members on different mobile numbers, all using the same account. We're on 600 minutes - and this usually does for all of us. I'm on the HTC s620; my wife is on an old vanilla Nokia (don't ask) and my daughter is getting our new HTC Hero ("free") upgrade.
We all try to make calls to other mobiles from our mobiles (to make the best use of the included minutes from the 600 minute monthly allowance).
We also have a BT Broadband Talk account on our land-line, so when at home we tend to make calls to other landlines from our landline in the "free" periods. I assume that BTBBT is cheaper than standard BT Option 1 for land-line calls out of the free period, but I really don't know for sure!
Even in the Broadband Talk free periods we make calls to other mobiles on our own mobiles as we assume that - even if we go over our 600-minute allowance, these inter-mobile calls will still be cheaper from a mobile than via BTBBT. Is that correct?
I often link my s620 to the wi-fi network at home for casual (slow) web browsing, and then find that - on the odd occasion that someone calls us on our Broadband Talk number, my mobile will ring as well! I can live with that!
As a previous BT Fusion user I was used to the idea that I could multiply my free minutes by calling on my mobile through the hub, but that's old hat now. I'm given to understand that the new benefit is that I can make calls via BT Openzone, but I don't know if these cost me or not? And what about BT Fon - if I can find a FON connection and make a call, does that cost, or not?
If we don't use our 600 minutes in any one month I assume that the surplus rolls over. All of them, or is there a roll-over cap? If I roll over 100 minutes after month 1, and then have 150 minutes unused at the end of month 2, how many minutes will be rolled over to month 3?
Texts:
We have a big family text allowance, although having added some text blocks I'm a bit confused about the total allowance as the bill is so complicated to read. It seems we have 400 free texts included in the 600 minute bundle. To that I've added one or two blocks of texts; there's a bill entry for BT Mobile: 200 texts, and also a bill entry for BT Mobile: 300 Texts as well as an entry for the 400 Free Texts. However I'm only being billed for a BT Mobile: 200 Texts Bundle. Not complaining! Of course this could be because I upgraded part way through a month from 200 to 300 extra - but I'm thoroughly confused!
Data:
We've been super cautious about data. I switched to my current s620 (unused by my wife who didn't like the form factor) when my s710 started to fall apart. When I tried to activate this phone its software needed to be completely updated (not surprising as it had sat unused in its box for 16 months). A very patient lady from BT remotely connected to my PC to assist in getting the correct software on to the s620. However, she omitted to tell me that the default state would mean that all my emails would be flooding on to the s620 and I'd incur a whopping data bill as we only have the bundled free 10MB of Data. BT Customer Service have since done two credits - spanning two bills - for over £60 + VAT for erroneous data charges resulting from my software upgrade. For that I am very thankful!!
Now that the HTC Hero is about to arrive I've decided to subscribe to the £5 Data charge for an extra 500MB per month. I s that correct - total allowance will now be 510MB?
From what I've heard it is not easy to monitor your own account's data use. Is there an App for the Hero? Can I check anywhere from the HTC s620?
What is the best strategy for getting free Data on the Hero? I'm assuming that the following is free - (a) connecting via WiFi on your own BT Home Hub (or someone else's BT Hub with their PIN/permission); (b) connecting via BT FON (c) using one's free monthly allowance on BT Openzone - how much data or time is this, and is it cost-effective to add to this data allowance, compared with overshooting on the BTBBA 500MB allowance?
Other tips:
As well as providing some responses and/or confirmation for the above, does anyone have some more tips for how to get the best value for money out of BT, with a mix of:
BT land line
BT Home Hub 2.0
BT Broadband Talk account
BT BBA To Go Mobile account
Voice
Text
Broadband (we're on Option 3)
Mobile Data via BT BBA To Go (Also, would a mobile dongle be a worthwhile/cost-eeffective back-up if you were about to go over the 500MB limit? Although I agree with everyone else who would like a larger allowance available than 500MB - especially on a 600 minute bundle being shard by two or three users)
BT Vision
I pay a lot to BT every month and I still don't regard myself as anywhere near expert enough in how to use/combine the services for the best value for our money.
HELP Please!!!

Wow!
I'm not going to be of much use regarding answers but I sure am going to watching this post like a hawk for any replies. My package is a slightly diluted version of this and I do find the BBtalk and data limits hard to make the most of as well.
If nothing else this totally highlights how complicated BT have managed to make their packages.
A cynic would assume that they are trying to catch us out at every step and for us to either be overspending or not really getting the moneys worth.

Apex 3 + BI Publisher - how to make the most of it?

Hi there
For evaluation purposes, I have downloaded and installed the standalone version of BI Publisher 10.1.3.3.2 in my machine. I modified the Apex settings to use BIP instead of Apache FOP that I was using before.
All is working fine. When I click the Print link, I get the a PDF file.
But the problem is exactly this: all is working fine... as before! I cannot see any obvious advantage of using BIP instead of FOP. I cannot see any new property that I can set or anything like this.
So, what new features are available to me in this new scenario? How to make the most of BIP and Apex? Is it something that I need to do on the BIP side rather than in Apex side? I need to justify the cost of BIP... ;)
Any advice will be welcome...
Cheers,
Luis

Hi Luis,
Difficult question to answer in the forums, since it's very much a 'visual wow' factor seeing the BIP integration in action.
However, going into marketting-mode for a moment (please excuse me, I don't do it often!), APEX Evangelists are holding some advanced APEX Training in London in March in which Dimitri Gielis will be doing a masterclass session in APEX/BIP and FOP integration (amongst many other things).
Here's a direct link to the training for more information -
http://eurotraining.apex-evangelists.com
Like I say, it's a difficult question to answer in the forum, however just sitting and watching someone who knows their way around the products is usually enough to provide a pretty convincing argument to management on why that big BIP fee might be justified!
Hope this helps,
John.
http://jes.blogs.shellprompt.net
http://apex-evangelists.com

Some of the most annoying SJC issues:

As I promised I will post some bugs I found. Will start from the most annoying for me:
1. Visual designer does not show JSPF fragment components inside GridPanel or GroupPanel. This is just a terrible issue.
2. CSS cannot be be assigned to JSPF during design time. I understand that JSPFs use CSS of the container page in run time but how am I going to design JSPF without CSS? Do I have to always go to the container page and preview how JSPF really looks? Sometimes when I get back from the container to JSPF it retains the styling but after refresh it gets absolutely styless again.
3. If I am binding the "Rendered" property of a component (such as grid panel), it disappears from the visual designer (after you click refresh) and will never reappear until you unbind it.

(1) VIsual designer does not show JSPF fragment inside GridPanel or GroupPanel: The reason this happens is that GridPanel and GroupPanel are JSF components which encode their own children; you can't put plan markup as direct children of these components (you can't do that for data table either). And a page fragment is going to be an HTML fragment; usually a <div> (look at the JSP source of your fragment). We should try to handle this better; at a minimum preventing the drop (since it doesn't work) but better yet try to fix it if we can. An< f:verbatim> here isn't what you want (this is how you can usually embed html in encoding-children components) because you don't want the JSF children of your html tag inserted verbatim. Somebody in support, can you file an issue to track this one please?
(2) CSS in fragments: That's a reasonable request. The reason it's not shown there is as you suspected; fragments don't have their own stylesheets (stylesheets can only be added to html documents in the <head> section, and fragments are portions of <body>.)
Also, in addition to not knowing which stylesheets are in pages that might include the fragments, we also don't know the context; when you see a fragment included in another page it doesn't just pick up styles from the stylesheets but from the context too (for example, a font-size: 48pt setting on a containing element will inherit right into the fragment). Thus, the fragment needs to know the exact element context it should use too.
If there are multiple pages including the fragment, they might use the same stylesheet if we're lucky, but the fragments will almost certainly have different style element contexts.
As you've noticed, the fragments already show the styling of the last page they were rendered as part of. This is a side effect of model sharing, and it's a bug I didn't think important to fix since it's sometimes nice ;-)
However, I can see the argument that in some cases, especially if a fragment is included by only pages with the same stylesheet, it would be nice to apply those styles in the fragments too, even if it won't correctly include other style contexts from the pages. That's a reasonable request.
(3) Rendered value binding: I agree, we should special case this to make sure rendered is considered true at designtime. I've gotta investigate how that works with some layout components though (like card layout) which I think relies on this (hiding all but one at design time)).
-- Tor
http://blogs.sun.com/tor

What computer manufacturer makes the most "linux friendly" laptops?

Hi,
I'm about to get a new laptop to replace my Dell E1505 I used untill now. i'm very happy with it, but it got old and starts to fail. I want to get a new laptop that's simular to it but new and more up to date. I looked at some of the computers avaliable and was thinking, which manufacturer makes the most linux friendly computers? Should I stick with dell or maybe HP is the better choice? What's your experiance on the subject?

From what I've seen, major manufacturers give little-to-no concern towards Linux support when designing a product. Should they have a string of products which work hassle-free, it is through coincidence alone.
To take Lenovo as an example, many of their notebooks in the past have included a wireless card they referred to as a "ThinkPad wireless adapter", which was renowned for functioning 'out of the box' with the ath5k driver. During the middle(?) of last year, and without indication, the "ThinkPad wireless adapters" changed, and now use an rtl8192se chipset. ndiswrapper has limited success (if any); a functional driver has only recently been created for this chipset; and support still missing from the kernel.
While my next laptop will probably be a Lenovo it will be for their build-quality and not their Linux support. When looking for a laptop, I recommend finding something which matches your specifications, design and price and then thoroughly checking compatibility of the components: it's the only way to be sure.

Bought a Macbook pro 2009 2.8 ghz used, how do I make the most? (it was not formatted)

bought a Macbook pro 2009 2.8 ghz used, how do I make the most? (it was not formatted)

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It is not safe to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1a. If you don't own another Mac
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
Some models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you may not be able to reinstall 10.6 even from the original discs, and Internet Recovery may not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
1b. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
2. Partition and install OS X
If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In thePartition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
3. Other issues
If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information.

HT1444 Upgrading from 10.5.8 to 10.6 (or later) which later version makes the most sense?

For work-related remote-access using Citrix, I will need to upgrade from V10.5.8 to V10.6 (or a later version). Which new version would make the most sense?

Since it's a 10.5 era issued machine and rather dated, the best OS X version is 10.6.3 via the white retail disks, call Apple Sales by phone and order it for $29.
10.6 will run your presently installed 10.5 software as 10.7 or 10.8 will not. Also 10.7 or 10.8 will slow your machine down to a crawl, so it doesn't make much sense to go there.
Since your machine is getting long in the tooth, it's got not that much longer to go, I would be considering a newer 10.8 or 10.9 machine (next summer) and ease yourself into in.
So 10.6 now, 10.8 or 10.9 on a new machine later.
Don't upgrade to 10.8 and don't worry about it, over 50% of OS X users are on 10.6 currently, (30% on 10.7) and about 5% on 10.8 just released.
Things to consider before upgrading OS X
Back up only your personal info off the machine to a external storage drive (not TimeMachine!), disconnet it. Stick the 10.6.3 disk in and run the updater.
Most commonly used backup methods
If you need to wipe and install, (like if you have problems because your 10.5 is funkyed up)
How to erase and install Snow Leopard 10.6
Install your programs from fresh original sources and last hook up your storage drive and return files into same named accounts.

How do I make the most of contacts for iPhone?

Hi, I've had the iPhone 4 since Dec, 2009. So I know very well how to use it. I've been re-watching the iPhone adds, and I really like how well the contacts are organized on the ads, and I was wondering, how can I make my contacts list look good and organized for each contact? How do you do this? any advice will help, I really want to make the most of my iPhone.

What do you mean good and organized?
If you want to add more information to the contact card, you can tap on the contact card of the person you want to edit, then select the Edit button at the top left corner. This will provide you with all the different options that are available to you to add.
At the very bottom there is one that says "add field", tapping on that gives you a few more options like Job Title, Department, Instant Message, Birthday etc.
This article says iCloud, but it's the same process even if you don't have iCloud:
iCloud: Edit a contact
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2660
Is this what you're looking for?

Opening new tabs makes the browser window wider

when opening a new tab in safari
it makes the browser window bigger (at the bottom)
but not only at the bottom actually
after a few close-open's it also starts growing at the top
and for me it's unacceptable cause there are folders that i need fulltime access to (at the top)
is there a way (a script) to prevent safari "grow" and make the browser window bigger in a while ?
i don't really know why is it happening because if you press cmd+t it opens a new tab and the browser window kinda slides bigger at the bottom but then if you press cmd+w it does the opposite and the browser window stays the same size after those actions
i can't follow but after some time it starts to be bigger not only at the bottom
it grows til the dock and then starts growing at the top
is there a way to prevent that ?
i mean take opera for example. it always stays the same size and new opened tabs take the "inside space" if you know what i mean. the browser window doesn't get bigger. there is space allocated especially for tabs
i like safari but it is very important for me that it stays the same size all the time
i have all windows and folders situated exactly where i want them and if something moves and covers other items, it gets uncomfortable
thank you

nimionsergei wrote:
(i have 'secrets' app installed and it makes pop up windows open in the same browser window, so it might be becasue of that)
Yes, it sounds like this is the cause.
Some pop-up window code forces the new window to be a certain size. Since it's intended to open in a new window, that normally wouldn't cause problems. But you're forcing the pop-up to open as a new tab in the current window, which causes the current window to be resized to that new page's defined size.

When I sort by date added in Column View in Finder, how can I make the most recent files appear at the top of the list?(Mavericks)

In 10.8, when I sorted Finder by date added or date created in column view, the most recent files would appear at the top of the list. Currently, this happens as it should in every single view mode EXCEPT column view (which is pretty much the only view I ever use). Currently, I have a folder with over 2000 files in it that date back to 2011, so now I have to scroll for like ten minutes just te get to files that were most recently added. Who in their right mind would want to sort by last modified with the oldest result listed FIRST? Ridiculous. I can't figure this out. Any help?

Thanks for the reply leroydouglas! Unfurtunately this doesn't cause the column to be ordered correctly either. After selecting this option, the files seem to be ordered by label, and the most recently added file is somewhere in the middle of the list. I'd like it to be at the top, and have other files/folders descend in retrochronological order by their add date.
Any other input from the community would be greatly appreciated, even if it's just confirming that this is/is not expected behavior. I'd be super bummed to find out that this IS expected behavior, as it's really counterintuitive and extremely inconvenient.
Thanks again!

How can I make the most of my HD handycam and FCS?

I have a feeling that my gear will enable me to produce Crisp HD content but I am unsure if my settings are correct to attain that goal. Here then is my story:
- I am shooting with a Sony HDR-HC3 handycam- I have the record format set to "HDV 1080i"
- I am importing into FCP - my settings are thus:
• sequence preset: HDV 1080i60
• capture preset: HDV
• device control preset: Sony HDV Firewire
• Video Playback: Digital Cinema Desktop Preview - Main
How do these settings look? Crisp?
Two more questions:
- When building a DVD in DVDSP what should my settings be to ensure the most crisp output?
- What about Motion?
Thanks for the assist.

Sorry, I'm not sure what "crisp" means. Does it mean sharply focused, white balanced and well lit material exposed using a camera solidly mounted to a tripod with all camera moves (pans, dollys, zooms) carefully and thoughtfully controlled? If so, I suppose your camera can do that, but much more depends on the person controlling the camera.
Seriously, all that happens when you transfer your material to FCP is a simple data transfer. If your capture codec is what you recorded (HDV), your images will be exactly as recorded - good, bad or indifferent.
The only real subtlety here is HDV is a pain for your computer to edit. It's long GOP format requires a great deal of processing power to adequately maneuver through the files. For that reason, many suggest converting on capture to a ProRes codec. The alternative is to capture as HDV but use ProRes as the sequence compressor.
A desktop cinema preview is not the image. It's a proxy - a video image converted to computer world to give you an indication of the material. If you want to see what the images really look like you'll need a card/output box capable to sending an HDTV signal to a reasonable monitor - Panasonic plasmas are a good choice.
For burning a DVD, you'll need to use Compressor to turn it into DV material. Much of your visual quality will be lost. That's what happens when you downrez an image. If maintaining an HD playback is important to you, start reading up on the world of pain that is Blu-Ray.
For motion, simply match your FCP settings.
Have fun!
x

OMG The Most Annoying Error in the History of iPhoto! "Alert, Photo Missing

This is driving me absolutely insane. EVERY photo that is imported into my iphoto brings an "Alert" that says, "The photo "Blah blah" could not be opened because the original item cannot be found". It's like, I DON'T CARE, upload the photo. How do I get rid of these errors that are meaningless?

What type of library are you using: a referenced library< where the photos are not copied into the library when imported< or a managed library, where the photos are copied into the library? Does the message ask you to find the original file? If so then it's a referenced library.
It will depend on the type of library as to how to go about trying to recover it.
<blockquote align="left">
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Spell check is the most annoying thing ever!

I have seriously come close to hurling this phone at the wall...!
because of the autocorrect spell check BS feature...
when is apple going to give me the ability to turn it off?
I ABSOLUTELY HATE A DEVICE THAT TRIES TO THINK FOR ME
IF I SPEEL SOMETHING WORGN - THAT IS THE WAY I WANT IT!

I'd like to see them improve the "suggestions" (just hire someone from blackberry for this, my (work) BB curve is light years better). iOS almost never gets it right.
I think that would make the fact that it is a 'click-to-deny' system so much more tolerable. I get so frustrated when it wants to correct a word I'm spelling the way I intended to, to some ridiculous word. Other times my word is only wrong by one letter and the correct word isn't even a suggestion.
Spellcheck/autocorrect and notifications are easily the worst two features of iOS.
Message was edited by: KMac1

Guide - How to make the most out of your sp

This guide is designed to tell you
.what you should use for the smallest files with almost floorless results
2.some suggestions of how to get your files smaller without sacrificing much audio quality
if you have a flash player, or a hard disk based player and lots of music you want to get the best quality for the least file size. In my opinion a Lame encoded MP3 is probably your best option and if you just want to make your wav files less than a third of the size at a great quality just use 320kb
ps.
LAME will give you the best quality for the same amount of space.
However if you want to have lots of tracks on a small space and still get good quality here are the settings and FREE software you should use.
Razor Lame - An easy interface for the use of Lame (MP3 Encoder), extract the zip files into a folder
- http://www.dors.de/razorlame/index.php
Lame - get the latest lame bundle and add lame.exe to your razor lame folder this will allow razor lame to encode your wav files to MP3 using the latest and greatest version of lame.
- http://www.rarewares.org/mp3.html
before I tell you the settings and explain why I have chosen them, if you want to save time you can just paste this (-b 64 -m j -h -V -B 320 --resample 44.) into the custom options bit, this will set up my options without you having to fiddle about, under the expert tab (without the brackets) then tick only use custom options.
The settings - in the lame options do this.... choose MODE as Joint Stereo (this will use one channel when both channels are the same, then 2 when there different therefore less space) and set up your output directory (this is where all your mp3 will be sent after they have been encoded) this directory must be manually created by you otherwise razor lame will copy the mp3 to the folder of the original file. Ok this is going to sound silly, but choose your current bit rate as 64kbits (don?t worry this will be your minimum bit rate for a VBR file)
Now click the advanced tab, all you need to do here is set the optimisation to "Quality" this will mean the MP3s take longer to encode but the final result will be better quality for the same space.
Next click on the VBR tab, this stands for variable bit rate and allows the bit rate of the mp3 to change throughout the song giving busier parts a greater bit rate (to keep most of the sounds) and less busy part less bit rate as they do not need as much bit rate and it will save space. Click enable VBR and Choose 320kbps as your maximum bit rate.
Your VBR file can now use bit rates between 80kbps and 320kbps, but now you need to tell razor lame whether it should tend to use higher bit rates, or lots of lower bit rates, you do this with the quality option. I would advise you choose as this will give you great quality and a file only about 4% the size of the original.
Now all you have to do is click the audio processing tab and choose the output sampling frequency as 44. kHz
and encode away.
With these options your original wav files will be compressed to 0.4 of there size as wav files but have the quality of a normal 256kbps mp3 which is 0.8 the size of an original wav file. Which means you can now fit 30%-40% more tracks without loss of quality, or you could fit the same amount of mp3s with noticeably higher quality.
These files are as small as they can be whilst almost sounding perfect but here?s what you should consider if you want to reduce quality and size of file.
- Change the quality in the VBR tab, instead of one try 2-5, the bigger the number the more the compression but the worse the quality of the file.
- Lower the max bit rate for the VBR encoding, go into the VBR tab and select a lower bit rate, i wouldn?t advise going below 224kbit.
- Don?t use stereo, Lots of people don?t seem to care, stereo or mono though 2 speakers, if you use mono, instead of the 2 speakers playing slightly different things they will both play the same, this will save space and increase quality (so you could lower the quality setting a bit more).
At the end of the day there are lost of options for you to mess around with and its up to you to find what?s best for you, hopefully these guidelines are useful (however i would defiantly use lame)Message Edited by -Recoba- on -04-987 05:47 PMMessage Edited by -Recoba- on 03-02-2005 07:48 PM

Bloodangel05 wrote:
Very good guide-They didnt sticky it
Nope, but I've bookmarked it for future reference

HT3775 Isn't Quicktime the most annoying media player? Seriously, more than 1000 dlls in each of my two macs and neither of them can play my avi videos with this, so frustrated... Am I the only one?

The thing is, I cant play my avi videos in Quicktime because it ask me for some codec, not saying which one in specific... I have a Macbook air mid 2011 and a macbook pro and same issue, I'm using better VLC to play videos, but why the native apple software cant play my content which, by the way, windows 7 devices plays without issues. Maybe this question is not enough to open a new post, but somehow we need to make noise, is not possible that we left apple being so unrespectful with us after all the money we expend in their products... What do you think?

AVI was invented by Microsoft over twenty years ago. They abandoned it in favor of more modern WMP formats.
As you've found out not all AVI's work the same way on different OS's or devices. VLC can play many more formats (out of the box) than the standard QuickTime Player but a bit of searching will lead you to components that assit QuickTime.
http://perian.org

My new speakers make the most annoying hissing noise!

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