New Photsmart Premium c410 printing darker than monitor image

I just purchased a new HP Photosmart Premium c410 and all photos come out darker or not as bright as the monitor image. On setup it never did pass the alignment test although the test print looks good. The print quality test print looks good with good color and seperation in the color bars and excellent sharpness in the text print. I replaced an HP photosmart 3310 with this new one and it is not producing photo lab quality prints. Any help? I'm using the cartridges and hp paper that came with the printer.

Hi - I had exactly the same problem. Here is how I resolved it.
When you click print on your poc the print dialogue bo opens
go to "Properties", then to "Advanced"
you should see a menu tree that has "printer features" &, within that, "Color Management". Mine was set to :- "Color Smart" however, I changed to "Adobe RGB...... 2.2 Gamma.." - This solved the problem for me.
I hope it works for you.
Regards

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Adobe PSE9 won't recognize HP Photosmart Premium C410 Printer

My HP Photosmart Premium C410 works with all my applications except Photoshop Elements 9 - which is kind of handy for an imaging program!! The printer is definitely correctly selected, as verified from Control Panel - Printers and Faxes. In PSE, under "Print", the first item is "Select Printer". I have selected "HP Photosmart Prem C410 series", which is the second line in the option list. The first line is very similar, being "HP Photosmart Prem C410 series fax". Every time I try to print something, it starts the fax process..... Nothing I try seems to get it onto the printer, rather than the fax. Any advice gratefully received.

Hello,
PSE9 takes some initial number of character to recognize a printer and send print action to the printer.
In your case both your printer and Fax has same initial name, in such situation PSE get confused. In such situation to come over of this issue do one thing :-
Rename your printer name to some otehr name and then try printing.
For more reference you can go through this post also :-
http://forums.adobe.com/message/3272408
cheers
Sam

Not able to print more than 6 images in Preview?

So having installed a new printer on my MacBook, I am trying to print a folder full of images in one hit...
They are mixed file types, web docs, jpgs etc.
However, when I go select "Open With" it comes up with Safari, so I go through and open with Preview - but it will only open, and therefore print...6 of them.
My first thought was that it was only certain file types opening, but even when I just open jpgs - the same thing happens, and it will only print six.
Any ideas?!

Hmmm, when the Print Dialog comes up, have you tried changing the Pages setting from All to From 1 to 10 say?
Does Text Edit print more than 6 pages?
What happens when you try to Print a seventh after the 6?

When I print in Photoshop CS6 the image prints narrower than stated image dimension.

When I make a print from CS6 the image on paper is narrower than the stated dimension in the program. The height of the image is faithfully reproduced. I know that there must be a preference setting to correct this but I can't remember which one it is.

I just finished watching a segment of Luminous Landscape's Camera to Print and Screen 2 video series on printing to canvas. Problem Solved; I feel foolish that I didn't mention that I was printing-on-canvas as the solution to my dilemma would have been obvious. I measured a canvas print that I did last week and it has shrunk even more than when I first measured it. I have since printed large images on Epson enhanced matte and the dimensions were spot on. Thank you for your responses and great job on the video.
Palm Coast Charlie...

My new 8600 Premium e printer jams every time using eprint

My new printer (8600 Premium e) jams every time. I have to pull the duplex unit to clear it. There's paper behind the duplex unit every time. I have to quit using eprint for this reason. I've read the other messages about this but nothing has worked so for.
Different files, same results.
Thanks for any help rendered.

Hello Phantom101st,
Welcome to the HP Support Forums. I see that your Officejet 8600 Premium printer jams when you send ePrint jobs to the printer.
I have included the A 'Paper Jam' Message Displays on the Printer troubleshooting document. Please follow all the instructions in “Step two: Clear any jammed paper from the rear of the printer”. I’m asking you to do this as it has some additional steps to check things in and around the duplexer.
If that doesn’t resolve the issue, please let me know. In addition please include the following information:
How is the printer connected (USB cable, ethernet, or wireless)?
How are you sending the ePrint jobs to the printer (via the ePrint desktop software, sending an email to the printer’s ePrint email, via the HP ePrint mobile app, or the HP AiO mobile app)?
Are you able to print from your computer without the printer jamming?
Are you getting an error message? If yes, what does the message say and where is it displayed (computer or printer)?
Thank you.
Regards,
Happytohelp01
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Please click “Accept as Solution ” on the post that solves your issue to help others find the solution.
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HP2050 prints darker than photo on my computer...and uses WAY too much ink. HELP.

and uses WAY too much ink. HELP.

Regarding the USB, see if zapping the PRAM helps.
Regarding your storage space check out the following:
HD Space Checkers:
Disk Inventory X (FREE)
WhatSize (SHAREWARE)
OmniDiskSweeper (FREE)
GrandPerspective (FREE - donation)
Mac Performance Guide
Slimming your hard drive
===============
Quick fix How To Quickly Free Up Hard Drive Space on Mac OS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO-mlLApEuk

Pint out different than monitor image

The print outs I get with Lightroom look competely different than any other program's printouts including Adobe Photoshop CS2. The color is not the same. I assume this relates to color management, but I set up the monitor and Photoshop seems fine. Lightroom colors are washed out in comparison, though both look similar on screen. What is going on? How can I fix this issue?

Jeremy, first look at the posts/threads on this here on the forum. There are lots and I am sure you will find the solution to your dilema.

HP C410 - The pics that I print come out darker than the one on the screen. Why is this?

I ahve a HP Photosmart C410. When ever I print pictures they are printed darker than they appear on the PC screen.
How can I correct this??

You're right - by default the PDF will be created at the same size as your selected paper size at the time you create the PDF.
The simplest workaround should be to just create a custom paper size - in File -> Print, look for the Page Size popup which should list every paper size supported by your printer. At the bottom is a 'Custom Size...' option that lets you create custom paper sizes, including your 11 x 17" size, even though that's bigger than your printer supports.
Select this custom size the next time you print to PDF and you should be OK.

Images adjusted in Aperture 3, exported as JPEG printing dark.

I have been exporting JPEG files to a professional print vendor and the prints I receive back are much darker than the images I am seeing in Aperture 3. On my screen, the Masters and Versions look great. The prints I get back look under exposed. I have friends who use this same print vendor with no problems adjusting their images in Lightroom. I have tried adjusting my display, through System Preferences to SRGB. no luck. I also created an export preset to adjust the print size to 8x10, that hasn't worked for me either.... Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

You do need to adjust your display... in fact you need to calibrate your display.
The #1 cause of "prints too dark" is "monitor too bright." You need a setting in the 100-120 Cd/m^2 for your monitor. And there's really no way to get that without actually measuring it, using a hardware calibrator. Alternately you could try reducing your monitor to 50% brightness and see what you get, but it's sort of a waste... if you care about results, a hardware calibrator is the only option that's workable.

Pixma Pro 100 printing dark and muddy

Hi,
I have seen several threads about this and tried to read those over and learn from them first but I'll admit to being so lost.
I've had the printer since August and previously had a PC with Windows 8. Since December, I've been using a Mac. With both computers, though, I always got dark and muddy prints, especially with blues and greens. I have installed drivers and looked for any software updates and the Canon website says I'm up to date. But when I go to print something, in the drop down box there are two options for paper - plain and photo. With my PC, there were a dozen or more options (matte paper, glossy paper, art paper, etc.).
I have installed ICC profiles from Red River Paper, as I did with the PC.
On a previous thread, I saw to go to Canon My Printer and then to settings. I'm guessing that's software? I don't seem to have that on my computer. I looked online and it came up on various software download sites but not the Canon web site. I am leery about installing from one of those web sites so I didn't.
After reading another thread, I went in to PhotoShop and selected a different color space (Adobe 1998).
I apologize for being so lost but apparently I am in need of super-simplified instructions. I cannot seem to figure this out. It's so frustrating and discouraging. I appreciate any help!
Thank you!

First, you must not let the printer set anything. Turn off every bit off control it has. You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab. Do you know how? I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop) handle all the settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop.
And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing. Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off. If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps. However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-ins to do this. No additional software or gadgets, no spiders or monkeys, etc.
But you must get the gray-scale very close. You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
Most folks set there brightness way too high by default. This presents a big problem when judging prints. You need to judge your prints in good light, preferably daylight. Again they may be correct and you don't know it.
After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen. Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level. One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you saw it. It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others. My goal is to get the skin tones right. That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here. One is colored light and the other is colored dyes. They are not the same thing.
For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print darker than what I see on the monitor (typical for most users). So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case. It also prints with a slightly warn tone. Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not. In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast. Canon engineers must prefer this look. It can not be changed. You need to "fix" it in post. You will also likely see a color tint even in your B&W prints. This is normal.
Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer. Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not. This is a must!
Important to, use the USB connection until everything is right. You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time. Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go. Use a real printer USB cable. Not just any old USB cable.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

Does anyone know how to print more than one picture on a page?

I am having trouble finding a way to print more than one image per page with Aperature? Do they have other options like photoshop?
Jim

What I have done is use the book pages with my own layout.
The problem with this is you are hit and miss to get exact final dimensions for each of the images. You need to print and then measure. I used my laser printer to not waste ink and paper, then the Lineups are ok. Once you have your template sizes correct, then you are fine and it is repreducable for any picture package combo you want.
I have fussed with it so I can get 2 5x7s on a page with the correct dimensions.
The photobox property popup has aspect ratio, alignment and should also have a DIMENSION option. This would be super as the rest of the book page layout is pretty flexible.
Good luck.

Photos sent to Online printing service darker than on calibrated monitor

ok, I know that prints are typically darker than what is shown on the screen(with loss of detail in the shadows that was visible on the screen.) I calibrated my monitor using both the eyeone display 2 puck and coloreyes software using gama 2.2, D65, Luminance 120. (which calibrated closely to using the eyeone software. I am using a 2008 macbookpro laptop. I like the colors on the screen and I exported the files using sRGB but also checked the soft proof and both the soft proof and exported photos (in preview) looked fine.
Here are my questions. I used black point compensation, is this correct?
Also, knowing that the photos are printing darker what is the best way to compensate? Should I use the gamma adjustment on the export or should I perform an adjustment on the photo in aperture? (If in aperture which adjustment?)

Can you print them yourself? How do they look?
IME, Black Point Compensation should be used (I forget why, but it is recommended).
If prints you make look right, I would bring it up with the on-line printing service.

Why are the photos i print much darker than the monitor image?

why are the photos i print much darker than the monitor image?

Please read this post then provide some details. What printer model? What operating system? What program are you printing from?
Some programs such as Photoshop give the option to print to CMYK or sRGB color spaces. Even though the printer uses CMYK inks the driver is expecting sRGB data. If CMYK is selected the prints will be much too dark.
Another thing to check is the media type. If you are printing on plain paper and have seelcted Photo paper the prints have too much ink.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Printing results are darker than screen. Any help!

I used Aperture to print a book, the book turned up to be darker than it looks on the screen.
I just printed few photos from LR3, the pictures ended up being darker as well. Am I missing something? I use sRGB IEC61966-2.1 profile. which I believe is standard.
I have an iMac 24"/2008. What can I do to get an approximate colours? I have no budget for calibration equipment.
I want to prepare an my wedding album soon. Any advice is appreciated.

I agree with Kirby and Michael completely.
I have made many books (with a couple of various 'self-publishing' provider such as Blurb, and Pro Photo lab such as Pikto in Toronto, Canada, and Apple). My workflow is used with Adobe Creative Suite CS5 (Design Premium CS5 and uses Design Premium versions over the years with Adobe), Apple Aperture and Adobe Ps Lightroom 3, and PhaseOne's Capture One PRO 5. My photography books included black and white, as well as color.
Before I work with my photo files for book projects, I always calibrate monitors with X-Rite ColorMunki Photo. I recommend it highly. I calibrate my monitors EVERY week. In some instance, for extremely important project, I calibrate monitors for that project.
I notice that Kirby (or Michael) or as in many other forum discussion here at Apple Aperture community forums, I don't see any mentions of 'proper' set up with monitor in a room. For example, it is best to *AVOID ANY* light reflection toward monitor by any means. This includes reflection from bright color shirts, room wall, windows and desk lamp. Remove ALL of light reflection distractions! In order to do a proper calibration set up, you need to make sure that there are absolutely NO distractions of light reflections toward monitor. You might want to use grey shirt or black turtleneck similar to that of Steve Job's trademark black turtleneck as an example. The point is to reduce all kind of reflection of lights toward monitor. With the right set up in the 'digital workflow lab' in your room, then proceed with calibration hardware such as ColorMunki Photo from X-Rite.
Additionally, few months ago, I bought ColorChecker Passport, also a product of X-Rite. Very nice workflow, too.
Anyway, once done with proper calibration set up (and regularly), you'll do well with your workflow for your book project. But be cautious and very conservative with yourself. Don't let your eyeballs fool you. Your eyeballs aren't always accurate due to many factors involved mentioned as above. That is where calibration hardware (and specialized software that comes with calibration device provided by vendors such as X-Rite and similar high-end professional-grade third-party vendors).
Don't even think about adjusting brightness manually in monitor's physical setting, it actually ruin the entire workflow process. Don't do it! I had seen many, many, and many (if you will MANY times) discussion about it all over the Internet. This amaze me that there are millions, millions and millions of such similar problems as yours. If done manually and messing around with monitor's physical settings, this really screw this whole work up. This means bad output - simple as that. Unfortunately, some people didn't realize that. There is workaround solution to this, either use Aperture or Photoshop with level or curve adjustment.
However, like I said, once with proper set up in room setting by removing ALL kinds of distraction of light reflections, and all other proper set up (such as neutral darken shirt, wall painted in grey (specialized painting stores offer this), so on, AND IF you believe you think you are seeing some issues with certain images, use it with caution approach in Photoshop with curve or level to brighten or darken.
You want to learn a bit about soft-proofing. Aperture has this capacity to softproof your images whether your images look good for output such as book.
Understand that you can't even get 100% of what you are seeing in monitor with output (books or fine art prints etc). With proper calibration set up, this will get you very close what you are seeing in monitor vs outputs. But with extreme cautious approach, this gets very close, but not 100 percent, though. But pretty close.
You also want to learn more about ICC profile for preparing book files. I don't want to go on and bore you and afraid to confuse you even more. For example, if working with different printers such as Pro Photo lab or other self-publishing companies, or any other printers, DO consider to contact them about ICC profile where you can download these ICC profile. Please note that if they have different paper and types, consider downloading different profiles FOR these paper used in book. But don't worry too much about this, because Apple is pretty good with books and Aperture is pretty good. BUT you gotta to calibrate monitor in order to do a successful digital photo workflow.
Well, you mentioned you don't want to invest in calibration hardware, perhaps that you want to hire a book designer to do a professional wedding book. But if you plan to make many books, DO consider to invest calibration device, this means this save you tons of time, money, effort and saving trees at the same time.
All in all, it is really up to you.
Hope some of tips, ideas and suggestion be of help and informative and educational perspective. Best of luck! Color Management topic itself is very complicated and very highly technical, it takes pro photographers, printers finally to understand what works, why and what's not. Perhaps that you want to look at X-Rite ColorMunki educational webinars about this - just to give you some ideas about why. Again, it is up to you. But the concept is the same with all other calibration device process. X-Rite has many pretty nice informative webinars. I wish that Apple offer this educational webinar about this too.
Brian

Problem with printing to a HP Photosmart Premium C410

Printer purchased and installed on July 9, 2011. Connected wirelessly to a D-Link Xtreme N GIGABIT Router Model DIR-655. Router IP address 192.168.0.1
The printer worked fine until last week. Then one of our Laptops could suddenly not print or scan anymore.
There are Two Dell Laptops connected to the same router.
The first Laptop, Dell XPS M1530 running Windows Vista Home Premium Service Pack 2, 4GB Ram 32 bit OS. This machine can print to HP C410 printer directly with no problems. It can see the printer’s embedded web server at 192.168.0.254 and can scan from there into a file on the laptop or can print the just scanned image from the embedded web server. It can also print to it using HP eprint.
The second Laptop, Dell Inspiron M1545 running Windows 7 Home Premium Service Pack 2, 3GB Ram 64 bit OS. This machine CANNOT print directly to the HP printer. It can see the printer’s embedded web server at 192.168.0.24 and can scan from there into a file on the laptop (I used a PDF format and brought it up in Adobe Reader to be sure) but it CANNOT print the just scanned image from the embedded web server. The print process fails and shows the document still in the spool queue with an error status. It can print to the HP C410 using HP eprint.
I have used the HP suggested process of uninstalling all the printer software and re-installing it from the original CD (tried this three times) and by downloading it from www.hp.com. I have also installed the HP fix titled: Following a Network Installation, the Product Loses Functionality and Is Missing from the Devices and Printers Menu after the Computer Is Restarted in Windows 7 (64-bit Only)
I installed the fix after a complete un-install / re-install cycle. I have run the HP Print Diagnostic Utility at this point in the process and it returns a clean (All Green Check Marks) report but its final test print fails in the same manner.
Thanks in advance for help in solving this problem.

So, this post, as well written as it is, went totally ignored by the HP personnel that are supposedto be "helping" us poor novices? WOW! No wonder this crap gets thrown out of the house so often.
I have two HP network printers. An HP Officejet 4500 G510g-m, and a HP Photosmart Premium C410a, and they are the most unreliable pieces of "equipment" that I have in my network. This is absolutely trhe crappiest bunch of junk on the market. The only thing worse than these "devices" is the support from HP for them.
I also have a HP Photosmart C5280 AIO, and a Deskjet D2345 Printer. I have little, to no, problems with these two. The "flagships" of my network imaging are the worst, of the worst.

New Photsmart Premium c410 printing darker than monitor image

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