No track len

I downloaded several albums today (legally I might add), and most of them are fine, but one albums tracks do not have a length available on my player, or in the Creative MediaSource, i.e when I go to properties in CMS the track length is indicated as 00:00:00, and when the tracks are playing on my Zen Micro the left hand timer (time gone) goes up as normal, but the right hand timer (time left) stays at 00:00. I know this isn't a massi've problem, just slightly niggling, so I was wondering if anyone has had similar problems and has some remedies, or if I have to just li've with it.
[EDIT]: When I browse my computer and look at the track properties that way, the correct track lengths are shown.Message Edited by cjennings on 02-7-2005 0:08 PM

I have the same problem... Check these links below for more info. No solution yet!
http://forums.creative.com/creativel...ry.id=0#M28336
or
http://forums.creative.com/creativel...ery.id=0#M7053
or
http://forums.creative.com/creativel...ery.id=0#M8354
Anyone got any ideas?

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    Please remember to mark the replies as answers if they help and unmark them if they provide no help, this will help others who are looking for solutions to the same or similar problem.

  • Question about multiple audio tracks

    Hello,
    I see that imovie has only 2 audio tracks available when creating a movie. I need more than two since I will be working with a voiceover track, a soundtrack and at least one background/environment track all at one time. I won't be able to use the sound recorded with the video so that "track" is not an option.
    My question is; Am I out of luck here and need to spend the 1K for studio pro to add more multiple audio tracks?
    Also, I tried working with garageband but since all of my audio tracks import in at a minimum of 40 beats per minute, the voiceovers are all sped up and sound chipmunky.
    Thanks for any help!

    Well I didn't mean to irritate you...LOL And yes, I realize that this is the iM 6 forum but the gist of my question was related to multiple audio tracks in iM and thought I would ask about it in the forum pertaining to the latest release.
    I had already posted a question in the GB forum regarding the bpm problem and found no answers so I was pretty much about to shelve that idea and forgo the whole garageband thing; this without knowing about the new "swap" features. I just updated to iM 6 yesterday.
    As far as the "on-tape" raw audios: I was working on my movie in iM4. I wanted to add more audio bits but I don't have a proper mic for my G5 so I recorded the audio bits on dv8 tape through my camcorder. I imported the video (the image was the inside of my lens cap!), extracted the audio, took those audio files and imported them into GarageBand. That's when I noticed the bpm problem.
    I'm sorry about the lack of info I originally gave but like I said, I had pretty much gave up on the idea of using GarageBand. I'm pretty new at this and I'm trying to decide what I need in terms of software to get what I want out of my movie. I'd be willing to pay for FCxp but still looking into whether I need to do just that or whether I can get by by using imovie and now it looks like GarageBand too.
    ah, thanks for that
    what irritates me, Prince wrote:
    The audio tracks were voiceovers that came from my
    dv8tape, imported into imovie4.
    ... ehm, but this is the iM 6(six) section, as said,
    iM 6 allows now "swapping" files with GB3... (I'm way
    back in the 90ies.... see my specs... )
    so, video is in some iM, and he wants to use the
    actual "on-tape" raw audios...
    I thnik we need a little more detail...

  • Film noise / lens flare in cs4?

    Hi,
    Years ago I used to use Premiere 6 - real old school!
    It had a great effect, listed in the Quick Time folder within video effects, which allowed you to add film noise (random scratch marks) and lens flare so that your movie looked like it had been shot on an old super 8 or something similar.
    I now have CS4 but can't find an the same effect in there. Surely it's possible to do - they can't have LOST an effect in development over all these years?!
    Any ideas greatly appreciated!
    cheers

    Looking at my XP version of WMM (not the more recent Live version), I see Film Age, Old, Older and Oldest, plus Film Grain. All could be useful.
    One can also Keyframe the fixed Effect>Opacity to get "flicker." If one wants the "flicker" to go lighter, then just place a Color Matte (white) on Video Track 1 and the footage on Video Track 2, then apply those Keyframed Opacity Effect.
    If you are thinking about doing the "aging" in Pr 6.0, you might want to look into doing an Export from CS4 and working on that. Something like DV-AVI Type II should be fine, but maybe even using the Lagarith Lossless CODEC (if Pr 6.0 supports it, and I think that it will), and then Exporting from Pr 6.0 to Lagarith.
    If you use WMM, you would do similar, but I rather doubt that it will process the Lagarith Lossless CODEC (might want to experiment), and then Export as DV-AVI Type I. This file should Import into CS4 fine, though it is slightly different than DV-AVI Type II. One possible issue might be Video and Audio going OSS (Out Of Sync), but when this happens, it's usually static OOS, and not dynamic OOS, so it's easy to fix. Another workflow would be to Export as DV-AVI Type I and use a conversion program (plenty of free ones, like Prism) to convert to DV-AVI Type II.
    One consideration is that since ultimate quality is not what you want, not even worrying about something like Lagarith Lossless, as a little more degradation might actually help you achieve your goal - Old Film.
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    Hunt
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  • Quick and DIRTY Canon S90 lens correction

    From ACR 6.1 choose the Canon G10 profile, make it the default for the S90, set Distortion slider to 85, CA slider to 105, Vignette left at default 100.  I picked the values examining a 6mm (widest) brick wall image, then checked tracking for other focal lengths.  Does a surprisingly good job, certainly adequate for 99% of my S90 images.
    Richard Southworth

    LR does not ship with a separate profile for each body, against each lens. The camera model info here, AFAICT just notifies you what camera the lens was mounted on, when the profile was created.
    The same profile can quite happily work for other camera models too - even so far as, automatically extracting just the relevant middle coverage out of a FF lens profile, to correct images taken from a crop sensor body with the same lens mounted. (This will of course not work the other way around).
    The profile's aim is to characterise the lens optical performance, which does not per se change when you move it between cameras - (although this may not be quite 100% precise, e.g. in terms of vignetting off microlenses etc, it is normally quite good enough IMO). In the past, profiles used to address CA as well, and I believe this issue was more sensor dependent (the newer LR CA correction does not depend on the profile).
    If the need is a critical one, then your individual lens copy and your individual camera body can be used to "close the loop", and generate an empirically "perfect" custom profile. It's not very hard to print out and photograph the special targets, and then run the free DNG Profile utility; you can put as much or as little effort as you like into the number of focal lengths and apertures that you include. But if the supplied standard profile is good enough to save you that trouble altogether, it may not matter that it is not the theoretical best.
    AFAICT, the installed / downloaded profile is likely more subject to LENS sample variation (between your lens, and the one used to make the profile) - than, anything to do with using a different camera model.
    RP

  • Lens shopping help, things to consider.

    Because this is a new forum with very few members from the forums I belong to, and one with a lot of questions from people who appear to be fairly new to DSLR’s I thought I’d start a discussion on picking lenses & the flaws in a lot of the internet advice out there. There is a lot more to buying the right lens than just buying the one with the best Image Quality (IQ) when tested by one of the major review sites. Fixed focal length (primes) will almost always get the higher rating when compared to zooms, and in general the more expensive lenses will get the higher rankings. That’s all well & good but very few of us have the required skill set & technique to get even close to to the last few percent of IQ they can deliver while hand holding. If you’re strictly a tripod shooter, you may get close, but that’s not likely the case when shooting without it. Very high shutter speeds help, but you can’t rely on being able to use them for the majority of your shooting.
    Relying on user reviews is helpful but that also has it’s flaws because many users don’t have good enough technique to properly evaluate their lens. Many only shoot in Auto or Program mode, and they don’t hold their camera / lens steady enough for the shutter speed the camera selects. Many don’t even know the proper way to hold a long lens, and the longer (more MM’s it covers) the more important it becomes to both hold it steady & use a higher shutter speed.
    So what does this mean? I’m suggesting that far too many are trying to pick lenses that don’t fit the job at hand which is getting the shot. Zooms although lower in IQ are more versatile & offer a lot more opportunities than a sharper prime, but more importantly most of us, myself included, will be hard pressed to see that difference in our photos. That doesn’t mean you buy the cheapest version of a lens that has the range you’re shopping for, it means that you should buy the best you can afford and learn how to use it to it’s potential. Putting the purchase off until you can afford the very best in class will cost you a lot of missed photos, & some of those could have been your best work to date.
    I’m sure there are other opinions on this & hopefully others will add their thoughts & experiences. I’ve gone through a lot of lenses over the last few years trying to find the very best for my needs, which aren’t mainstream, & I’ve settled on lenses many say aren’t worth buying. It’s a very good thing I didn’t give up & found out who to believe when reading user reviews at different sites. 
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

    Image Stabalizers are a very desirable feature , especially for older people like myself. Each lens maker has a different name for it but the idea is the same BUT most consumer grade lenses don't have a setting that allows you to use it while panning (tracking a moving target. IS (AKA OS, VC or VR) is primarily designed to help reduce camera shake while hand holding & shooting a stationary subject. It should be turned off when using a tripod or panning unless it has a panning mode. If it isn't turned off you'll get soft (or slightly fuzzy) images that look a little out of focus. Imagine how many bad user reviews that switch has caused. If the lens does have a panning mode switch don't forget to set it to match your intended use. With Canon lenses Mode 1 is for stationary subjects & Mode 2 is the panning mode. If your lens only has an ON / OFF switch turn IS off to pan.
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • 55-250mm Telephoto Zoom Lens help

    I can not get a sharp image with this lens no matter what I do.
    please can someone help me.
    I tried taking pictures of some birds this morning and they are not sharp at all.
    I used a tripod too.
    thanks.Tina

    We would probably need to see your image (along with the embedded EXIF data so we can see the camera settings that were used for it.)
    But I'll offer a few general tips...
    The default shooting mode of most bodies is to use "One Shot" mode. Canon bodies have a "One shot" mode, an "AI Servo" mode, and then a special mode called "AI Focus" which really just means the camera evalutes whether it should use One Shot vs. AI Servo mode on the fly.
    In "One Shot" mode, the camera uses "Focus Priority" and does NOT focus continuously for moving subjects. Once it locks focus on something it's ready to shoot but it will not adjust the focus for a moving object. This means that at some point your subject was in focus... but has since moved from that position. You can fix this by switching to AI Servo mode.
    In "AI Servo" mode, the camera WILL focus continuously... as your subject moves, the camera will continue to adjust focus... but the camera also uses "release priority" when in AI Servo mode. So whereas in One Shot mode (which uses "focus priority"), if you press the button all the way, the camera will not actually take the shot until it can lock focus first (which is why some people think their camera is malfunctioning when it wont take a photo in a very dark room -- because it can't lock focus) -- in "AI Servo" mode (which uses "release priority") the camera WILL take the shot when you fully press the button and it will do this whether it has had time to focus or not (so that's an important detail to remember). Half press to get the camera to lock focus and keep tracking your subject with your focus point (and it will continuously focus)... then fully press the button to take the shot .
    The EF-S 55-250mm lens does not have particularly fast focusing motors... the STM lenses are faster and the USM lenses are the fastest. Action photographers will specifically seek lenses with fast focusing motors... without a fast motor, sometimes it may not be possible for a lens to track focus adequately -- however Canon does use "predictive" focus when tracking an object whose distance to your camera is changing at a uniform rate.
    Also... you'll want to give yourself a nice broad depth of field so that a small amount of focus error wont really impact the final outcome. It will be easier to keep things in acceptable focus at f/11 (or even f/16) than it is when you're using a lower f-stop such as f/4 or f/5.6.
    BTW, Canon does not recommend just leaving the camera in AI Servo mode. It turns out there are some nuances of the way this works which can trick the camera into thinking there was movement and altering focus when taking a non-action shot... resulting in missed focus. Use "One Shot" when shooting non-action. Use "AI Servo" when shooting action. I don't actually recommend "AI Focus" (that's the mode that auto-decides if it's an action shot or not) BECAUES there's a slight delay while the camera evaluates which mode to use and that can cause you to miss the "decisive moment" to grab the shot.
    Hope this helps... I'll try to find the YouTube videos that Canon has which explain how your auto-focus system works. It is quite informative and tells you more about how your camera "thinks" when it comes to focus.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Motion 3  - motion tracking help

    I am rather new to Apple Motion, so I apologize in advance for any novice comments or inquiries. That being said, I have extensive experience with video shooting/editing/graphics withing the Adobe family products. In this instance however, I am required to use Apple Motion.
    My question is simple (I hope). I have a short video that has been motion tracked - selected a definable area on the motion and created keys frames to track the motion. I have then overlayed a graphic of a "dot" to highlight the motion of the initial video. The dot is subsequently matching the motion perfectly and is in sync with the underlying video. My question is this:
    How do I add a "tail" effect to the dot - similar to a lens blur - so that the motion of the dot is highlighted a bit more. The concept is the same as having a "tail" on your computer mouse. I thought this would be easy.
    More preferably - i would like to attach a paint stroke, as a light trail to the initial motion tracking (instead of the dot + tail). Apple's light trails are much more aesthetically pleasing and look better than the animated dot mentioned above.
    In any case, I'm sure the above task is easily accomplished for an experienced Motion user, but alas I am struggling. Thanks in advance for your answers!!!

    There is a trail effect in the filters, but I'm not a fan of it. Do do a light streak type of effect, I'd probably utilize the particle emitter.
    Create an emitter from your dot (E), and set the speed of your emitter to 0. Match move the emitter to your tracked footage. Use the color over life parameters and birth rate to tweak the emitter and create your "light streak".
    Specialcase has a wonderful tutorial that covers exactly what you're trying to do. Here it is:
    [Light Writing|http://www.motionsmarts.com/tutorials/finger/finger.html]
    Hope this helps.
    Andy

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