Pin Layout HP Power Supply HSTN PD05 P/N 379123 ?

Hi Folks, I want to use the HP power supply HSTN -PD05 P/N 379123-001as a "of board" 220V power supply to drive a 12 Volt Car-Radio plus Amplifier & Subwoofer System. Can s.o. here send me a Pin Layout of the PS or even send me some examples (layout,photos....) how to use the PS out of the computer/server as a 12 Volt or 5 Volt PS including the switch on/off Pin- Layout. May be also how to modify to (re)load a 120 Ah 12 V Car Battery. XanksEd

Hi Dave, I can't plug it into a rack. In order to turn it on, out of a backplane/rack -connection, I need to shortcut the power on funktion. This meeans I need to know the PIN-Layout of PS. (at least the Power on pins o the connector) Where do I get this Information from? regards Ed

Similar Messages

Broken power supply: is there an easy fix?

Somehow when I plugged my iPod into a (usually reliable) AC adapter at work, it horrendously bent the pins inside the power supply. Now I can't plug it in at all - and it's dead, which is heartbreaking. Perhaps I'm a bit of a fool, but I thought all iPod adapters would fit my iPod (the adapter at work had always worked before). Why did this happen?
Anyway, is there a way that I can fix this cheaply? The curt, unfriendly guy at the Apple Store told me it would cost over $100 (He was a jerk! Come on, Apple Store, upgrade your staff.). Is there a home-repair solution? Or contractors who do this sort of repair for a more reasonable price and with a nicer attitude?

No, I think I have damaged the docking port on my iPod. Or "dock connector". The pins (or whatever they're called) are bent and possibly broken. Someone said to me I could just buy a broken iPod (like with a cracked screen) and use it for parts - does anyone know if that's possible, or know of any resources for that sort of thing?
Thanks for replying, by that way.

Quicksilver G4 Dual 1ghz power supply...

I'm pretty sure that the power supply in my Quicksilver G4 Dual 1ghz is going. Initially, I was only getting the familiar bong for startup, but nothing else. I then noted that the fan on the GForce Ti card wasn't spinning, nor the fan on the optical drive. I removed the Ti card, my second hard drive, and two RAM chips; the computer started, then shut down. I pushed the power button, it finally started. The fan on the optical drive is still not spinning (still plugged in though.)
I did buy a new motherboard battery, put it in, and followed the process of resetting the CUDA/PMU. I did that before doing the above so I know the battery is fine.
That's why I'm almost sure it's the power supply.
So, my question is, where and how do I go about purchasing a new power supply for this computer? Any help and/or suggestions would be most appreciated.

Some of the symptoms might desribe a logic boarrd, cpu or Power Supply issue. This article might assist:
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.asp?p=420908&seqNum=4&rl=1
If you are extermly confident with a multi meter you might try the following procedure. However, be sure to use appropriate ESD procedures as "static" can kill your machine and be sure to take care as electircal power can kill you.
PS verfication:
1. Power Mac G4 (QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002) (see Figure 3): Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 11 of the 22pin power supply connector. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 22 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +25V. If you do not get a reading of +25V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step. If you do measure +25V on pin 22, the power supply is likely OK. Go to the next step for further verification.
Start up the computer by pressing the power button on the front of the computer. Note: Verify that the power cable is plugged into connector J30. If the computer starts up normally, the power supply is OK. If the computer does not start up, go to the next step.
2. Check to see if the power supply fan is spinning. If it is not, go to the next step.
3. Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 16 of the power supply connector for AGP and PCI models or pin 11 for Gigabit Ethernet/Digital Audio/QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002 models. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 1 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +3.3V.
If you do not get a reading of +3.3V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
4. Connect the black lead of the volt meter to pin 16 of the power supply connector for AGP and PCI models or pin 11 for Gigabit Ethernet/DIgital Audio/QuickSilver/QuickSilver 2002 models. Connect the red lead of the volt meter to pin 4 of the power supply connector. The volt meter should measure approximately +5V. If you do not get a reading of +5V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
5. Measure the voltage of pin 10 on the power supply connector. The voltage should measure approximately +12V. If you do not get a reading of +12V, re-check the volt meter connections and measure the voltage again. If voltage is still not present, replace the power supply; otherwise, go to the next step.
6.The testing is complete. You have just verified that the power supply is not the cause of the “No apparent power” symptom.

Harman Kardon iSub 2000 - Power Supply pin points required

G'day
Can someone help me here, recently moved houses (separated from.. you know) and had limited time to get my things to here, I lost the power supply for the iSub here (kicking my guts as want use it as i love it!), I was wondering if someone could help me out with the pin out points so that I can make one please. And what was the output voltage again?
Thankyou once again.
Regards
AP

You might try a universal AC Adapter from Radio Shack. Radio Shack's AC Adapter has multiple interchangeable plug types & you can set the exact voltage via a switch on the power supply too. They're not too expensive either if that worries you.

4 pin power supply

hello folks I am wondering what and why some mb's have the small 4 pin power supply for the cpu and others don't. I have two machines I have put together and one does and the other don't. Can't find the correct literature to satisfy my curiosity. please offer some insight.
Thanks Paul

the msi nforce 2 powers the cpu of 12v and so has the 2x extra 12v feeds,and 2x earths
as the 20 pin plug has only 1x 12v feed
and 8a is the most load an atx lead should ever have
and as 8a is about a cpu load and the 12v does other jobs on the board they are needed
older boards ,and boards like the assus nforce 2 still use the 5v rail for the cpu
so dont need nor have it

Laptop power supply "Smart Pin" ?

Hi All,
I'm an electronic hobbyist and wanted to use a surplus HP laptop power supply as a power source
for my experiments. It is a large 'brick' rated at 18.5VDC @ 6.5AMPS, I think (sorry I'm at
work). When I cut off the DC plug I was surprised to find a COAX type cable with 2 shields and
a center conductor. After a little surfing I 'assumed' that the third wire is the center
conductor, or the smart pin. Cannot seem to find how the "smart pin" works. Anyone know of a
link as to how this works so I can be "smart" about using this power supply? All I'm looking
for is some nice, regulated DC.
Buy the way, I own 3 HP laptops and administer hundreds of HP servers at work. Wouldn't buy
anything else!
Thanks...

Hello friend, ignore those websites just cut your hp charger, u will see 3 wires which are the first layer, second and third. Cut off the third layer to prevent shunting cause it almost damage my laptop. Connect your positive to the second layer and negative to the first layer and that solves the problem. Can also be used on dell laptop chargers too. Tested and confirmed. Don't forget to cut of the third layer first. Kudos

PowerPC 7500 Power Supply Pin Outs?

Anyone got a link to page with the pin outs for a 7500 power supply?
I have a 614-0039 and I need to test it.... not sure if the paper clip trick will work to start it.
It's a 22-pin connector and no green wire!
Thanks

Anyone know how to test this power supply? It will not turn on.
I have 5vdc on only one pin. I have no computer to test it in.

A88XI AC JPWR2 - power supply has no 4 pin connector

I am building a system with an AX88I AC and have just noticed that my power supply does not have a 4 pin connector that fits the JPWR2 plug. Is JPWR2 optional, perhaps (I am not using the PCI slot) or do I have to get an adapter or a different power supply?
[later] OK, forget it. I just found that there is an 8 pin connector that splits into two four pin connectors. I would delete this post if there was a delete button.

Quote from: mark on 16-May-15, 23:46:14
[later] OK, forget it. I just found that there is an 8 pin connector that splits into two four pin connectors.
Correct. Most modern power supplies split into 2x4 pins
Looking at the manual of products you have(PSU+motherboard in this case), does not hurt, just so you know

Power supply for AGP graphics - 20 pin vs 22 pin?

So, the power supply on my G4 Sawtooth (dual 450) is about half dead. I looked online, figured out which part I needed, and actually found one on Ebay. It was kinda easy. Then I took it to my Aunt's house (she's a tech) to install, and lo and behold... I have a 22 pin connector on my motherboard. The power supply (that everything online pointed to as the correct part) is a 20 pin. So of course, that isn't going to work.
I checked out everything again last night and all over the place I see that the Sawtooth has a 20 pin connector. Mine is 22, I swear... what in the ****??? Why the discrepancy? And does anyone need a 237W power supply?
Thanks,
Brooke
12" PB 867, G4 Sawtooth D450, Indigo iBook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later Macs have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. 28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors.)
If you are not using a ADC monitor, you might could cut off the connector from your existing supply & the purchased supply & connect the 22-pin connector to the purchased supply.
Here's some links of power supply sellers.
We Love Macs http://www.welovemacs.com/apposu.html
HardCoreMac http://store.yahoo.com/hardcoremac/powersupplies.html
Not sure if the Apple Part #s are marked on your existing supply & purchased supply, but the links have the Apple Part#s for the various Mac models.
Cheers, Tom

NX6800GT-T2D256E, Power supply and 6-pin connector

My NX6800GT-T2D256E came with a power adapter: 2x 4-pin Molex to a 6-pin connector that goes into the VGA-Card.
I've noticed that I have an identical 6-pin connector directly on my power supply (a Cieftec GPS-400AA-101A)
According to the power supply's manual, it is a PCI power connector, seemingly for powering PCI-express VGA cards.
Of course I want to use that connector, as it seems to be the ideal way of powering the card, but first I compared the pin configuration to make sure it is the same thing - and found a slight difference.
On the Adapter supplied with the card, 1 of the pins is empty (not connected) while on the connector from my power supply it is connected to +12V
Basically the pin configuration looks like this:
1 4
2 5
3 6
On the adapter supplied with the card they are:
1: +12V
2: NOT CONNECTED
3: +12V
4: Ground
5: Ground
6: Ground
On the power supply they are:
1: +12V
2: +12V
3: +12V
4: Ground
5: Ground
6: Ground
Can I safely use the connector from my power supply or could the additional +12V damage my VGA card?

Your PC has a standard ATX power supply and physical sizes will vary slightly. You might want to measure the dimensions of your power supply. Normally the standard ATX PSU will measure 5.9" by 5.5" by 3.4". You don't want to get too far away from the dimensions of your PSU since the HP mini-tower cabinets are very tight inside. I prefer the modular model PSUs to help with excess cabling issues. www.newegg.com has many good brands. Not all PSUs are created equal. Look at the warranty period, amperage on the 12+ volt bus, specification level, i7 support, efficiency rating etc..
OCZ, Enermax, Corsair and Rosewill are all good brands as is Thermaltake.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

How to check the power supply? iMac G3 233

How to do it?
Can i just take the case with the mainboard out and "short" the pins Power on (pin 8) with GND and check the voltages on the connector that comes out of the monitor case?
I know that the pin 8 is the power from articles about imac>atx case conversion.And i know that you can power up a normal ATX power supply by shortening two pins, and want to know if i can do the same with iMAc power supply. I don't want to fry anything.

Sounds like you have eliminated most of the possibilities, other than power supply board or motherboard. But it may also be the CPU daughter card that is faulty. I had one (233 MHz) that would run Mac OS 9 just fine, but it was unable to run Mac OS X reliably (crashes and freezes after a few minutes). I replaced it first with a 333 MHz G3 card off of eBay and later with a 467 MHz G4 card from the Fastmac booth at MacWorld San Francisco two years ago.
If you are comfortable disassembling the iMac to the point of removing the power supply board, you can layout the PS board and the carrier assembly (the thing you pull out with the motherboard, CPU card, and drives) on a table top. Then connect the power supply board to the carrier assembly, and connect the external power cord plug to the power supply board, and connect a keyboard with a power button to the carrier.
To measure the voltages, you can disconnect the 4-pin connector to the hard drive. If you turn it on using the power button on the keyboard, it will not start up with the hard drive not powered up (unless you use a bootable CD), but the system should be powered so that you can take your measurements.
Hope that works. Be careful with the exposed back end of the CRT. Keep any curious cats out of the room while you do this...
In case you don't have the PDF of the tray-loader iMac tech manual, it is downloadable here.
http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/manuals/index.htm

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

How can I replace the power supply IN the time capsule

I have a TimeCapsule that has a bad powersupply. I have opened the timecapsule to confirm this. Has anyone done this before? If so, where did the power supply come from? Cost? I took this to the Apple Igneous bar and they said there is nothing that can be done about it.They said it couldn't even be opened, but simply peeling the rubber bottom off and unscrewing a number of tiny screws and that's it. The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there. That was a bit of a surprise. I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad. I had hoped that if I removed that the AP part would at least work, but after opening it up and firing it up I could hear that the power supply was buzzing thus the conclusion it was the issue.
I am going to put the SATA drive in a reader to see that it is indeed ok. If that checks out, then I know for certain it is the power supply, but I don't know what to use as a sub since the unit needs both 12V and 5V. I'd just as soon find a good supply and use that. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John A Kostelac

What version is your TC.. A1xxx from the rubber foot?
Power supplies are not available from apple. They do not consider it repairable. It is a sealed consumable.
Power supplies are available from ebay.. simply type time capsule power supply into search.
This is absolutely standard issue that has been ongoing for ages and ages.
See https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair
For a multitude of ways to fix it.
The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there.
No, it is not loose, it has rubber mounts with pins in the bottom base plate. You cannot see the mount points with the base off. This is standard hdd mount for low noise and vibration.
I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad.
Drives seldom are the problem. The Gen2 WD black has been less than great though.. and later spinpoint in Gen3 not so good.
Apple Igneous bar

HP Z400 Workstation Power Supply not Supported

Good Day All,
I would like to seek help on the issue that i am currently facing.
Currently, I am using an HP Z400 Workstation and decided to switch to a bigger casing. I Bought a Full tower and casing and just realized that i am unable to move the power supply (425 Watts) as well due to the cables are too short to reach the CPU main Powers.
So I bought a separate Power Supply (Cooler Master M2 Silent Pro 850 Watts).The cables are perfectly enough to reach the CPU main power source. After putting everything the pc won’t turn on……
I thought my newly power supply was defective and got a replacement at the same day. I tried the new Power supply and simply does not want to turn on… this is getting frustrating as I am unable to figure out what is really causing the issue.
I also tried to just plugging the cables at the Main power and removed all the additional devices just to test but still no luck….
I started checking forums… there is only one post regarding about unable to change any other third party Power Supply for this HP Z400 Workstation. I guess it apply to all HP Branded as well as Dell.
Guys I need your help as I don’t want to make a mistake again on considering to build another machine just because this one was not working… Maybe there is one there that manages to bypass or have a resolution on how I can successfully upgrade my Power supply using the same HP Motherboard.
Here is my Current Specs..
Processor
Intel® Xeon® Quad-Core Processor W3565 (3.20 GHz, 8 MB cache, 1066 MHz memory)
Chipset Intel® X58 Express
Here is the link for the full details of the specs
http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/workstations/product-detail.html?oid=3718668
Here is the power supply I want to replace http://h20464.www2.hp.com/results.htm?SID=3718668&MEID=368CA2BE-30F2-40AE-8929-DBF4AF2ADC21
Will wait for your kind reply,
Thanks

The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively.
Z400 PSU connector
Standard ATX PSU connector
I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.
Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Power supply needed for MS-7220 (Diamond Plus) and others.

The following statement is taken form the K8B Diamond Plus Manual.
For ATX 12V power connection, it should be greater than 18A.
If I am interpreting correctly, the ATX 12V connector should have dedicated to it a minimum of 18A.
My first, question is if the Power Supply has two or more rails, how do you know the power dedicated to the ATX 12 connector on the Power Supply?
Second, if a +12V rail is not dedicated the connector, how do you know what is connected to each rail of the Power Supply?
This maybe the source of why many are saying, they have more stable system performance when using single rail Power Supplies.
I have tried eleven different manufactures to get more detailed Power Supply specifications, but no responses; today through February 1st is the Chinese New Year.
Those of you running the K8B Diamond Plus, what are you using for Power Supplies and are you having any instability problem?
One thing I did find curious was that going the manuals and in most all of the newer Socket 939 motherboards have this specification, but nothing in the motherboards specifications of on the MSI Web Site about this required and the are a lot of 500-600 Watt power supplies sold that do not meet this specification.
The statement Total Wattage does not mean a thing has even more meaning to me now.
Are we going to have to know the Current Rating of each cable on the output of a Power Supply now to insure we are purchasing the correct Power Supply?
Roger

Roger
Ihave a Tagan 580w U22 with switchable dual/combined +12v rails and it is very stable,set it combined for 35a.
Only thing to ponder was the 4/8 pin +12v/p4 connector,power supply has the correct split 2x4pin connectors so does the board but there is a little removable cover over 4 pins,so thinking MSI fitted it there for a reason I have fitted only one 4 pin connector,no problems as yet.
Think you may well have a point re the 18a.
I have just given my son my old sli platinum/cpu/heatsink/ram/vga card,this setup ran 250/11/4 @ 1.4v & ram 2.5 3 3 7 1.1 @ 2.75v with the Tagan.this setup now fitted in his case but with a dual 18a rail Enermax and he can't o/c stable to the old settings.Case has better cooling than the wavemaster it all came from.
Dont think the enermax is bad just that it supplies the power a different way.
Regards
Rossoevo

Pin Layout HP Power Supply HSTN PD05 P/N 379123 ?

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