Poor 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Throughput (Hub 5)

Hello,
Even though Windows 7 reports my Wi-Fi signal strength as 'Excellent', as does inSSIDer (-25dBM), the throughput itself is very poor.
Here is a LAN test to begin with just to prove the broadband is okay (37.50 Down | 9.49 Up):
http://www.speedtest.net/result/3435996049.png
Here is a Wi-Fi test, using the same server 1 minute later (6.85 Down | 7.74 Up):
http://www.speedtest.net/result/3435997528.png
Nexus 7 Tablet Wi-Fi (18.30 Down | 9.35 Up):
http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/a/794982309
Xperia S Smartphone Wi-Fi (12.33 Down | 9.25 Up):
http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/a/794985718
No matter what I try, I cannot get the rock solid throughput I had with my HH3 :-(
Things I have tried:
Changing Wireless interface type from 150Mb/s to 300Mb/s and then back again.
Manually selecting a non-overlapping channel, i.e., 1, 6 or 11.
Find less crowded channels using inSSIDer and changing it to one of those.
Disabling 5GHz wireless.
Resetting wireless settings to default.
Complete resetting to factory defaults.
Turning off all nearby electrical devices.
Moving the router.
Standing on 1 leg and pulling a silly face.
Any help on this matter is much apreciated.
Paul.

Update:
After 2 hours on the phone (yes, 2 hours!), I have a new Hub5 arriving tomorrow and will report back if that one is the same as the first.
I'll try to make this long story short. Here goes...
Phoned BT faults approx 3:30pm and spoke to a woman, possibly off-shore going by the accent. Explained that the wired connection was rock solid at over 37Mb/s but 2.4GHz wireless was very poor at around 6Mb/s.
When she got to the, "Have you got another microfilter you can try" bit, I suspected she wasn't altogether aware of the problem I had.
Asked to speak to a supervisor who tried telling me nothing was wrong with the hub. I asked for a replacement as I suspected it could be faulty. After he tried fobbing me off with pompous talk and refusing to send a new one because it 'was not faulty', I asked to cancel the contract as I was not happy with aspects of the package I had just signed up to and I believe I was still within the 'cooling-off' period.
He put me on hold for 25 minutes while he spoke with sales to get a new one sent out.
Call was cut off!!
He rang me back and put me through to sales who were unaware of his apparent 25-minute conversation with them. Sales were unable to send out a new Hub5 as their systems were unable to do so and they were forced to put me back through to faults.
Spoke to another patronising lady and I gave her an ultimatum. 1. Send a new Hub5 or 2. Cancel my Infinity. She confirmed a replacement will be with me tomorrow!
2 hours on the phone to get that sorted and I'm fairly IT savvy. I can only cringe at how some less tech-minded people get on.

Similar Messages

I have used all the usb ports on the back of my iMac desktop [2009] - in one I have a hub - too many?

The longer I have had my 2009 desktop iMac, the more I am needing usb ports. I only have 3 on the back. Currently 2 are used for the 2 printers I own and the other has a 3 branch hub in it for my mouse, keyboard and card reader. I have the mouse and keyboard attached this way as the cords work better for me in my workspace. I am using one of the ports on my keyboard for my mp3 player. Now I am branching out into the computer world and have tried using a flash drive. However when I tried plugging it into the other usb port on my keyboard, I get the message that there isn't enough power to support it. Same message when I tried one of the three ports in my hub. So the only way I could get my flashdrive to work was to unplug a printer, plug in the flash drive till I was done with it and then plug in the printer again. Since I am sure that this plugging and unplugging constantly would not be a good thing, I am now contemplating getting a better hub so I could permanently have a usb hub open for my flash drive. I figure I can always use a port on my keyboard for my card reader as I don't use that very often. My question is: "If I do get a better hub to put on my 3rd port on the back of the computer, will that be too much for the poor thing?"

Generally, you should use hubs (of which the keyboard is one) for devices which don't need to get their power from the USB port ("bus-powered"). Portable drives (including flash drives) are bus-powered; printers and other larger devices which have separate power cables are not. So the printers should attach to your hub, and small devices should connect directly to the Mac.
Now, some hubs are actually powered themselves, and these are better suited for powering small devices.
There are some good options here:
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/usb+hub
Are both your printers USB-only, or can they be networked (either wired or wirelessly)? That would save you some ports.
Matt

Problems with the Firewire Hub at a Cinema Display

The Firewire Hub on my "23 inch Apple Cinema HD Display" doesn't work when connected to my "Power Mac G5 DualCore 2,3 Ghz Double Lay" - the hub works when connected to a Mac mini (or before to a G4 867). The Firewire-Port at the G5 works, too. Who can help me?

There seems to be not as much power at the monitor ports, use the main ports instead.
Dont forget to clone that boot drive occassionally
http://homepage.mac.com/hogfish

Please Help - How to re-locate my Hub

Since I changed from BT Broadband to BT Infinity I’ve had very poor speeds.
My previous Broadband Home Hub was on the landing but the engineer insisted that the Infinity Hub should be attached to the main phone socket in a downstairs room.
Speed in that room, on my laptop, is fine but elsewhere in the house the speeds are very poor. This is a big problem since my PC is in an upstairs study.
BT replaced the Home Hub and also suggested I use a different channel, which I have done. But no improvement.
A friend suggested that I should get adaptors so I can move the home hub to a more central position. But I’m not sure how to do this because my Hub is connected up to Youview.
The present connections are as follows –
Openreach box –
A cable to phone socket.
A cable from LANI socket to BT Infinity socket in Home Hub
A power cable which plugs into a Mini Passthrough adaptor (presumably for Youview)
Home Hub –
The incoming cable at 2 above
A cable from CigE socket to the Mini Passthrough adaptor
The normal power cable
Can anyone please advise me how to re-locate my Home Hub using TP-Link AV200 Mini Multi-streaming Powerline Adaptors?
I'm an absolute novice, so an explanation fpr dummies would be brilliant!

If you do not already have the TP-Link adapters, then this page will give you some advice.
BT Connected Home Range of devices to extend broadband and boost wireless range
I am not sure what you mean by passthrough adapter?
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Home Hub Type A Or B

hi all can somebody tell me the differance between the home hub type a and b,i currently have the type a ,and im thinking of getting a type b,because ive heard there much better for online gaming,can someone tell me if this is the case

Hi there,
The type A hubs (of which there were two types with different internals) have something of a reputation for being pretty poor for gaming. The type B hubs have a differnet circuit board to the A types and the firmware is also different.
Not being an avid gamer myself I can't offer first hand advice, but there have been noticeably fewer complaints on the forum since it was introduced.
"To forbid us anything is to make us have a mind for it."
-- Michel de Montaigne, Essays, 1559

Wireless problems of TC

i'm living all the problem of TC...
just since somedays, i found a stable use of it...
i don't know exactly why, but i changed some preferences...
i try to connect this new stable way, to the change of the system of the password... i set it to WEP...
the strange thing is that i see in system preferences that my network is recognized as WPA2 Personal, but if i go to utility airport and enter in my TC preferences it is shown as WEP...
i'm thinking: could all the problems of TC be connected to a wrong recognizing of the password and of its type?
INFACT, when i try to add to my network an Airport Express (to be able to play music wireless) the system ask me the passwrod of the network i'm connecting to... and because it's saved in my keychain, it gives me already it, but it says it is a WPA2 password... when i click ok, even manual inseting the password, the airport exrepss reboot itsself, but all my network crashes... and there's no way to reconnect to TC... i nedd to reboot it... taking off the plug and reinsert it...
so i think all these problems have to be connected to a wrong use of passwords by the sysystem...
just a thought...
tell me if you think this can be the real problem...
any help is appreciated...

Wireless is never the preferred option for streaming. It really is poorly designed to handle the required throughput and QoS which is non-existant on the apple routers.
It can be caused by interference from outside networks.. if you live in any place urban at all now. And auto rotating channels do nothing to help. With everybody using wireless with auto rotating channels you simply get chaos.
So my suggestions..
1. Use ethenet or EOP/homeplug adapters.. wherever possible.. indeed use multiple WAP's with ethernet backbone is going to work much better.
2. Lock everything. And try to use 5ghz when you are close by.. it is faster and less likely to suffer interference. Apple setup is supposed to auto swap bands.. that leads to even more auto swap voodoo.
So, set wireless names, use SMB standard. Short, no spaces. pure alphanumeric.
Give a different name to 5ghz.
Lock wireless channels. This is mainly for 2.4ghz.. there are three only non-overlapping channels. 1, 6, 11.. try each in turn.
Use only wpa2 personal security. Force as much stuff as possible to use 5ghz.
3. Do a wireless survey using a software like istumbler on a mac.. inssider is excellent on PC laptop.. there will be apps for iphone or ipads. Find out how much signal you are getting in different areas and how much interference.. remember you cannot see non-wifi.. like dect phones on wifi bands, door bells, av senders, microwave ovens .. all using 2.4ghz.

4th/5th G iPod and G4 PowerBook

Is anyone using a 4th or 5th generation iPod with their G4 PowerBook and USB? My USB ports seem to be underpowered- a USB key and my Microsoft Mouse work fine, but I can only transfer about 4 songs over USB before I get an error. For a while it didn't matter since my 4G iPod could use FireWire as well, but it's quite literally on it's last breaths and I need a new one, but the 5G only uses USB.
So what am I to do? I was thinking of getting a PCI USB card, how well is that going to work? How expensive are those? I can't afford to get a new Mac, and more importantly $3000 is a bit much to spend just for a new MP3 player.
PowerBook G4 17" Mac OS X (10.4.5) 1.33 GHz, 512MB RAM

Bought a Hub, works now.

Which version of Airport Express do I have?

Hi --
We just moved into a new place and we're having some trouble getting the wireless network to reach all the corners of the house. I have an old Airport Extreme that is helping somewhat but not great so I am considering upgrading our Time Machine to the newer dual band version. I'd like to know whether the Airport Extreme can take advantage of a/g/n -- is there a way to tell which version / generation of Airport Extreme I own?
Thanks,
Ramon

Dual band can be a bit confusing because at the default settings, "n" devices can connect to either the 5 GHz band or 2.4 GHz band.
The dual band Time Capsules and AirPort Extreme broadcast both bands simultaneously, and it's up to the computer to automatically choose the best connection. It does this based on a formula only known to Apple engineers that compares the network speed, signal strength, noise and who knows what else.
In other words if you have a dual band Time Capsule or AirPort Extreme set up in the default dual band Radio Mode, it's not possible to know in advance whether an "n" capable computer will connect to the 2.4 GHz band or the 5 GHz band....unless you assign a different name to the 5 GHz band and specifically "point" computers to that network.
Slower "b" and "g" devices will always connect to the 2.4 GHz band because they have no other choice. They can't connect to 5 GHz.
If your "n" computer is connected to the 5 GHz band, the throughput can approach 270-300 Mbps, which is more than twice as fast as "n" at 2.4 GHz. So, there's a distinct advantage to having the computer connect at 5 GHz (if it can)....wireless backups or file transfers are going to occur in half the time or less.
The downside to 5 GHz, rarely mentioned in the snazzy marketing materials, is that these signals are much weaker than 2.4 GHz signals, so they do not penetrate walls or obstructions nearly as well as 2.4 GHz signals. You really almost have to have a line-of-sight relationship between the computer and router for 5 GHz to work most effectively. Many users have been very disappointed to learn that their new Mac is not connecting at 5 GHz several rooms away from the wireless router. It chooses the slower 2.4 GHz band instead because it "sees" a stronger signal there. If there are also "b" and "g" devices on the 2.4 GHz band at the time, the "n" devices are slowed down even further.
If your budget allows, the dual band option +may possibly+ provide you with a significant increase in performance. It's nice to have the option to enable a separate Guest network as well. But, there are never any guarantees with wireless. My advice would be to think carefully about where devices will be located as this will have a huge effect on the performance that can be achieved on the network.

Hh5 5ghz signal stopped working

Just noticed that the 5 gHz signal on my HH5 has stopped working (inSSIDer and Stumbler can't see it and the SSID allotted to the 5 gHz wireless has disappeared from Networks in Win 8.1). I have tried stopping and starting the 5 gHz wireless on the hub and changing the channel but all to no avail! Any one have any other ideas? I presume I can get a replacement free as I've had it less than 1 year?
Mistakes and embarrasing goofs in e-mails are only discovered when you've sent them!

Thanks for that idea but I'm afraid it just doesn't bring the 5gHz wireless back to life. Guess it will have to be a call to India tomorrow and go throught the interminable checking that I've already done - c'est la vie!
Mistakes and embarrasing goofs in e-mails are only discovered when you've sent them!

AE wired to wi-fi modem/router

I have a wi-fi network using a Netgear modem/router already and I want to add Airport Express to it to stream music to my hi-fi.
Now I know I can add AE as a client to my wi-fi network but am worred about poor signal strength and bandwidth issues.
So can I wire my AE via ethernet into my modem/router for better streaming?
I'm hoping that a wired connection to the router is better than wi-fi to router then wi-fi to AE.
Any ideas?

Dazza,
Perfect. Exactly what I do.
With poor signal strength, and especially if you were
wanting to transmit the music from a wireless device
to the Netgear, and then have the Netgear re-transmit
it to the AE, the transmission rate drops
significantly.
Assuming you have AirPort Extreme at a logical
maximum of 54Mbps, AirPort drops the transmission
rate to reflect the actual amount of good data
received. Goes from 54 to 48 to 22 to 11 to 5.5 to 4
to 2 to 1 Mbps. These are still only logical maximums
and don't account for any device having to
re-transmit any wireless signal it receives. It
doesn't take long for the rate to 2Mbps, then you're
hoping for throughput of 1Mbps. In reality, you'll
get perhaps 600kbps pushing your network to the limit
playing simple mp3s, with no internet browsing.
Ethernet between Netgear and AE can remove the poor
signal strength and double the throughput of the
Netgear, not having to re-transmit any wireless
traffic.
You may also want to set up the AE to be it's own
network, but turning off DHCP. Give it the same name
and password as your Netgear, tell the AE that the
WAN is on Ethernet and you have a roaming network,
extending the range of your existing network.
Dazza,
I have the same issue. Can you help?
Trying to have my AE wired to my AEBS via a switch. The ethernet cable has signal because I can hook my PBG4 to the ethernet cabel and get out to the internet. However, when I plug the same ethernet cable into the AE, I cannot get out to the internet wirelessly thru the AE. But, I do have connection to the AE and can stream music.
Can you tell me what I am doing wrong with my setup?
Thanks
DE
PWBK G4 15" Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Poor broadband speed and hub lockups

I've been with BT for donkeys years and need a reliable system for lots of business reasons.
When I first got a wireless hub, the old white version, I was plagued with poor reliability. Usually after a particularly sticky period the hub just locked up and needed its power lead unplugging and replugging to get it going again.
As most people discover, Indian call centres are just a waste of time.
One day it got really bad and I found I couldn't even use my telephone.
Nothing but fizzing and crackling. I found a special number (17070) that you can ring and this gives you a line test facility.
Clearly my line was bad.
After a phone call to BT I was warned that if indeed my line did not turn out to be bad I would be charged a HUGE amount and I really shouldn't persue the matter.
Having been in Defence Communications since 1965 I decided to back my own diagnosis and to carry on and request an engineer to pay me a visit and hopefully diagnose a bad line.
A chap turned up the next day with a trainee in tow.
Within 30 seconds he'd spotted the problem.
Many years ago during a period of copper shortages, BT had used different types of wire. Unfortunately when you connect two different metals together and add moisture you have a battery. Metal is transferred from one wire to the other and you get oxidisation. The copper wire was just twisted with an aluminium wire and had been oxidising ever since it had rained after it was was fitted...
Down came a length of cable between the anchor point on my garage roof and the house and up went a new length of copper wire. Next a new junction box with an integral filter was fitted... all this done by the trainee (his first day with BT) and since then my broadband has been faultless. The speed which was usually around 1.5M is now 5.2M.
I suspect the main problem that resulted from the noise due to the oxidised junction was in the hub firmware.
Eventually a particular random set of crackles put the hum firmware into an odd state from which it could not recover.
Resetting by interrupting the power returned the firmware into a working state, until the next lockup crackle code.
Hope this helps someone

Hi Repairman
Well you were nearly right .....
Adaptive adsl uses a line algorithm to determine line speed and profile, which is run constantly at the dslam in the exchange.
Any crackles and pops or other line noise will cause the line speed to reduce in both throughput and IP profile, because it sees instability in the connection, due to the noise.
Once the noise is corrected, the dslam picks up the throughput and profile automatically, after a period of time has elapsed and noise levels are back to normal.
The only role the router plays is in "trying to negotiate" the best possible line speed for the line condition.
But thanks for the post, and sharing your experiences!

Poor service and the saga of the Home Hub 2.0

Since upgrading to Total broadband 3 earlier this year, I've had problems with the Home Hub 2.0 (type a). It keeps locking up/crashing. Its the home hub rather than the broadband connection, which when used with a Linksys modem router works fine.
I've run through usual fault finding and rectification - hard reset, plugging into test socket, countless line tests. of course trying to get BT call centre staff to understand its the home hub thats playing up/at fault, not the connection, is like banging ones head against a very hard wall. For a piece of equipment less than a year old it should work without problem. And I was tempted to go to PC world and buy a replacement modem, but decided to preserve with BT's 'help' desk.
Over the past 3 or 4 months I've probably made one help desk call about the same issue each month. Have to repeat myself time and time again and get fobbed off with another excuse, or promise of call back.
Eventually got through to a supervisor - after insisting when a call log was closed and marked 'resolved' when we were still having the problems and hadn't had a call back. Repeated my issues for the 4th or so time, went through what I had done to date (restore to factory settings, checking its logs, etc etc) he finally consented to send a replacement home hub.
I get an email telling me it would be delivered on the 6th before 6pm. But of course it wasn't. And I did as the email said, and tried to phone the number to say it hadn't arrived only to get an answer phone message saying the help desk was shut.
So wasted my lunch break today on the phone to BT trying to find out where it was, only to learn that BT had posted it to a previous address which I haven't lived at for 4 years. Well done BT, it takes real skill to be that rubbish.
Fingers crossed another new one is on its way to the right address.
I have however a couple of questions, which as I can't face phoning the call centre again I thought I'd post on here:
1) How on earth did BT manage to send the replacement home hub it to the wrong address? Especially since the original one was sent to the correct address & my delivery address is set correctly on the web portal and the agent handling the call confirmed the address? - and what are you going to do to ensure it doesn't happen again (dare I mention data protection - as the home hub pack presumably has some personal details on it..)
2) In the final call today I was asked for my date of birth and mothers maiden name so they could add it to the account - afterwards having not been asked by BT for this before on countless calls I wondered is this standard practice - or should I now be worried?
3) How do you have a sensible discussion with someone - preferably in the UK - about the customer experience? As mine as has been rubbish (you might be able to tell from the tone of this post), and I'm regretting ever having upgraded and wishing I had instead gone to another broadband provider.
4) Given that issues with certain models of home hubs seem to be known issues (at least to google) why do the call centre agents always focus on the broadband connection -(typical conversation with an Agent "..so your connection keeps dropping", Me: "No the connection is fine. The home hub has crashed again". Agent "So your connection has dropped"? and on and on) rather than actually listening to the customer. (Can you reset it - yes already have, several times and so on)
Any answers from a moderator would be welcome.
I am actually happy with BT's broadband product, and don't want to have to go through the hassle of changing provider, I'm just disgruntled at how bad the home hub has been, and how poor the customer service has been.
Thanks.

Hi EKandrew,
To be honest I have not heard of the hub locking up before. The questions you have been asked by our helpdesk are aimed specifically at your connection as most problems tend to occur here, either with slow speed or hub drops etc.
Could you be more specific in how the hub locks/crashes? What do you notice when this happens? What way do you have your connection set up?
As much info as possible would help
In answer to your questions:
1/ Sometimes we have an old address still on your account and this has not been updated for packages/correspondance.
2/ Nothing to worry about, we ask these questions for additional security. If you have quoted your account number previously this is normally enough for most things however the advisor probably just noticed we didnt have this info on file.
4/ As above, this is not a common problem and most issues that come to us are to do with your connection.
Thx
Craig
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
We are sorry but we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)”
td-p/30">Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post.
If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

AEBS; Poor throughput, Dropping Packets(Wired or Not)

I have an AEBS that was purchased in 2007.
So very recently I started noticing very poor network performance. Throughput to the internet was horrible, around 2mbps at times. Power cycling the AEBS would make it be ok for a while... about 9-10Mbps. However I usually was getting around 20mbps even when using wifi. This was wired!!!
Also, I noticed that packets were dropping. Anywhere from 1.5-4% packet loss when doing 1,000 pings to google.com. I thought for sure it was my internet connections... but it's not
When wired directly to the cable modem, no dropped packets over several days. Ping response is 5-10ms better. Also speeds are back at their max.
I have an old Westell 7501 router, and that as well is performing stellar over wifi and wired. Speedtests from wired connections are just under the speed when using the modem only, and even speedtests to my iDevices is near identical.
I've tried resetting the router to default, but I immediately start dropping packets, even when using wired.
Just thought I'd post here and see if theres anything I can try to resurrect this thing, or if it's officially done. I really don't feel like dumping $180 on a new AEBS. Thinking about doing dd-wrt on something.

The first thing I would recommend that you do is to verify if the issue is data throughput performance on the local network OR on the WAN-to-LAN interface across the AEBS itself.
To test the local network throughput performance, I would recommend a free utility, like AJA System Test. You would use it to test throughput between the System Test host device and another device on the local network. If after running a series of these tests using network connected devices that are connected by both wire or wireless, you should get a basic idea of the overall throughput performance of your local network. If all appears well here, we can go on to testing the WAN-to-LAN interface. Please post back your results for the local network tests.

Home Hub 3 WiFi - poor connection even when 2 metr...

My Home Hub 3's WiFi has always been **bleep** but lately it seems to be getting worse. Most of my devices are connected via Ethernet and are fine but my WiFi devices suffer problems: poor speeds, high/fluctuating pings, web pages slow to load.
Laptop (WiFi):
Speed test = 31 ms ping, 4.6 Mbps down, 7.0 Mbps up Google.co.uk ping = 27 ms, 48 ms, 301 ms, 14 ms
Server (Ethernet):
Speed test = 10 ms ping, 64.4 Mbps down, 16.3 Mbps up Google.co.uk ping = 8 ms, 8 ms, 8 ms, 8 ms
My server is actually busy doing networking stuff during this, yet has an excellent connection. The laptop's connection is pitiful, with pings all over the place (presumably due to constantly dropping packets). I actually managed to fix this last night by switching from 801.11b/g to 801.11b/g/n on the Home Hub but that didn't last since I'm having the same issues today. I've tried choosing automatic WiFi channel and switching manually to the least busy channel (1/6/11), and I've tried changing from 20 Mhz to 40 Mhz. Neither has any effect. I've also tried rebooting the router, which doesn't help.
I know it's a problem with the Home Hub since it happens with both of my phones also. Plus it occasionally seems to work fine. Is it just dying? I haven't ever moved it from its current position, which is in the centre of my flat.

up to you but using any of the other available channels does help in the majority of cases
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Can we use a scheduler to automatically adjust event hub throughput units/

Hi there,
I want to use event hub as our solutions. We have millions of event publishers and consumers. The problem is, we do have peek time which is from 8:00 a.m. - 17:00p.m. At night we may only have few messages. I think event hub bills
against throughput units, so i want to buy more units before 8:00a.m. and reduce the amount at evening. Instead of azure portal, I want to set up a scheduler to help me do this automatically. I didn't find anything on web to tell me how to achieve
this goal.
Please help and advise.
Thanks,
Frederick

No. AQ is not supported by Oracle Streams. User defined and Sys.AnyData are not supported types.
You can create AQ propagation process from source to backup site. But you will need to dequeue both sites simultaniously.
Or you can create schadow table (

Poor 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Throughput (Hub 5)

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for