Power supply 845gmax chipset

I am looking at a computer for a friend I think he fried his power supply because it wont even spin the fan when trying to power up. The problem is I have never worked with a motherboard that has a 12v plug just for the processor. I need good advice on where to get a power supply that supports this. And also is there a way to use an atx power supply that doesnt have this connector just to test to see that the mobo is alright?

All current decent PSUs have the 12v ATX plug.
Getting a decent PSU with 200w combined on 3.3+5v and 350 or more total is a good idea.
The board might post with just the 20 pin ATX plug but it is not a real test since if it won't post you won't really be sure why.

Similar Messages

  • Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

    Hello!
    I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required). 
    Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
    Thanks!
    Nathan

    Quote
    Originally posted by thegrommit
    That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct?  It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
    Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
    [edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset.  Are you sure that's the correct number?
    No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
    The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

  • Power supply dead? Can I get at the Hard drive?

    I recently had a storm which blew one of my external firewire drives (it goes on but won't mount) and when I tried using my older G4 (Quicksilver, with OS10.3.9, and Classic) to boot up in OS9 and try my Norton Utilities, the G4 froze. It did it several times. I eventually pulled the power cord. When I plugged it back it, there was a spark (at the plug in point on the G4, not the wall outlet. Since then, it won't power up.
    I tried booting it up in firewire disk mode and using my Intel MacPro, but no dice.
    I did a search and have seen discussion on what sounds like my same problem. I hold the power button and the light goes on, but goes right off as soon as I let go.
    I tried pressing the PMU; I saw a lot of discussion about the CUDA button but it seems these are one and the same thing. I removed the small battery and tried to get a replacement but have not succeeded as yet. Though I don't think that's the problem. It might be the power supply.
    Anyway, here's my question: can I use the power supply and/or battery from an even older Mac, a PPC 8600?
    And, whether or not that works, can I yank the hard drive from my G4, along with a second internal drive I put in (slave) in order to get data of it? (I'll give up trying to fix the G$ itself if I can just get my files off it.
    *While I'm at it, can I take apart the external firewire drive that won't mount, and get at the files on that in some way. I tried Data Rescue ll but the drive still would not mount so that was useless.
    Any help on any of these will be greatly appreciated. (Yes, I do have a nice big powerful UPS but the G4 and the external were no plugged in to it).
    Thanks
    noodle--head grrum...PY

    Hi-
    To recover your hard drives and data (including the external) get yourself a housing, and insert a drive, and move data to a different computer.
    You'll want a firewire external housing with the Oxford chipset. I can recommend any of the FW or FW combo housings by OWC on the following page:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/add-ons-and-hubs/enclosure-kits
    You will need a QS power supply-others won't work.
    If you end up wanting a power supply for the QS, check eBay, or the following:
    http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART
    http://hardcoremac.stores.yahoo.net/pog4quposu34.html
    As for the battery, as long as it is the same 3.6v and form factor, any will do:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
    The Radio Shack P/N is 23-026.
    G4AGP(450)Sawtooth, 2ghz PowerLogix, 2gbRAM, 300gbSATA+160gbATA, ATI Radeon 9800   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   Pioneer DVR-109, ExtHD 160gb x2, 23"Cinema Display, Ratoc USB2.0, Nikon Coolscan

  • HP Z400 Workstation Power Supply not Supported

    Good Day All,
    I would like to seek help on the issue that i am currently facing.
    Currently, I am using an HP Z400 Workstation and decided to switch to a bigger casing. I Bought a Full tower and casing and just realized that i am unable to move the power supply (425 Watts) as well due to the cables are too short to reach the CPU main Powers.
    So I bought a separate Power Supply (Cooler Master M2 Silent Pro 850 Watts).The cables are perfectly enough to reach the CPU main power source. After putting everything the pc won’t turn on……
    I thought my newly power supply was defective and got a replacement at the same day. I tried the new Power supply and simply does not want to turn on… this is getting frustrating as I am unable to figure out what is really causing the issue.
    I also tried to just plugging the cables at the Main power and removed all the additional devices just to test but still no luck….
    I started checking forums… there is only one post regarding about unable to change any other third party Power Supply for this HP Z400 Workstation. I guess it apply to all HP Branded as well as Dell.
    Guys I need your help as I don’t want to make a mistake again on considering to build another machine just because this one was not working… Maybe there is one there that manages to bypass or have a resolution on how I can successfully upgrade my Power supply using the same HP Motherboard.
    Here is my Current Specs..
    Processor
    Intel® Xeon® Quad-Core Processor W3565 (3.20 GHz, 8 MB cache, 1066 MHz memory)
    Chipset  Intel® X58 Express
    Here is the link for the full details of the specs
    http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/workstations/product-detail.html?oid=3718668
     Here is the power supply I want to replace http://h20464.www2.hp.com/results.htm?SID=3718668&MEID=368CA2BE-30F2-40AE-8929-DBF4AF2ADC21
    Will wait for your kind reply,
    Thanks

    The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX  (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively. 
    Z400 PSU connector
    Standard ATX PSU connector
    I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.  
    Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.  
    ****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
    2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

  • Upgrade video card and power supply or upgrade my pc?

    I have a :
    HP
    Series Pavilion Model M8530F(KT334AA) Type Media Center / HTPC Processor AMD Phenom X4 9550(2.2GHz) Processor Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor Cache Per Processor 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Memory 5GB DDR2 800 Hard Drive 750GB 7200RPM SATA Optical Drive 1 SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology Graphics NVIDIA GeForce 9300GE with Hybrid SLI Technology with 256MB dedicated video memory, DVI and HDMI capabilities, and support for Microsoft DirectX 10. Up to 1919MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows Vista Audio High Definition audio Ethernet Integrated 10/100/1000Mbps network interface Keyboard HP multimedia keyboard Mouse HP optical mouse Operating System Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit Software Included Photo and Video
    muvee autoProducer Basic: Automatically create professional looking home videos and burn to DVD
    Entertainment
    Cyberlink DVD Suite Deluxe: Automatically fix and edit videos and create CDs and DVDs. Edit, burn and archive data to discs.
    Productivity
    Microsoft Works 9: Includes a word processor, spreadsheet, database and calendar
    Microsoft Office Home and Student Edition 2007 Trial: 60-day trial version
    Adobe Reader 8: Read and print PDF file
    PC Security
    Norton Internet Security 2008: Protect your PC out of the box (60 days of complimentary live updates)
    Online Services
    Easy sign-up to major dial-up and broadband Internet Service Providers:
    - MSN dial-up (offer included)
    - NetZero Dial-Up (offer included)
    - NetZero Accelerated Dial-Up (offer included)
    - Juno Turbo Dial-Up (offer included)
    - High Speed Internet Services Comparison Shopping
    Motherboard Chipset NVIDIA GeForce 8200 Chipset
    CPU CPU Type Phenom X4 Installed Qty 1 CPU Speed 9550(2.2GHz) L2 Cache Per CPU 4 x 512KB CPU Socket Type AM2+ CPU Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor
    Graphics GPU/VPU Type NVIDIA GeForce 9300 GE Graphics Interface PCI Express x16
    Memory Memory Capacity 5GB DDR2 Memory Speed DDR2 800 Form Factor DIMM 240-pin Memory Spec 2GB x 1 & 1GB x 3 Memory Slots (Available/Total) 0/4 Maximum Memory Supported 8GB
    Hard Drive HDD Capacity 750GB HDD Interface SATA HDD RPM 7200rpm
    Optical Drive Optical Drive Type DVD Super Multi Optical Drive Spec SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
    16x DVD±R, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+R DL, 4x DVD-R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 16x DVD-ROM, 40x CDR, 32x CDRW, 40x CD-ROM
    Audio Audio Chipset Integrated
    Communications Modem 56K LAN Chipset Integrated LAN Speed 10/100/1000Mbps
    Front Panel Ports Front USB 2 Front IEEE 1394 1 Front Audio Ports 2 Card Reader Front panel 15-in-1 memory card reader: supports SmartMedia, xD, MultiMedia Card, Secure Digital (SD), Mini Secure Digital, Compact Flash I, Compact Flash II, IBM Microdrive, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick Pro Duo, RSMMC, MMC Mobile, MMC+
    Back Panel Ports PS/2 2 Video Ports 1 DVI, 1 HDMI Rear USB 4 Rear IEEE 1394 1 RJ45 1 port Rear Audio Ports 6 ports S/P DIF 1 port
    Expansion PCI Slots (Available/Total) (2/3) PCI-E x1 slots
    (0/1) PCI-E x16 slot
    Mouse Mouse Type HP optical mouse
    Keyboard Keyboard Type HP multimedia keyboard
    Physical Spec Dimensions 16.54" x 15.16" x 7.60" Weight 32.00 lbs.
    Manufacturer Warranty Parts 1 year limited Labor 1 year limited
    Sorry for the long copy and paste. I read that I can upgrade the video card and power supply. But atm when I play world of warcraft at ultra settings, I tend to lag really bad in the new instances with the new cat expansion that came out. I wanted to know if I should upgrade the video card and power supply for better performance or just upgrade my whole pc tower.  Fyi, I am running a Acer X243w lcd flat panel monitor if that helps too.

    My brother has a high end laptop with a built in, high end gaming video card (I forget which one). He's able to run the game on full-on Ultra. 
    I have an integrated video card which games the game on.. 'cartoon'.. mode. It's lower then low. When someone shoots a powerful spell at me, I go into a DOS Prompt. (not really, but it's pretty bad).
    Funny thing is, I can still kick my brother's butt in any PVP match he wants to set up. 
    But I guess his graphics are pretty....
    As for which video card works best, I'd have to do some research. After that graphics update they did with CAT,  it's kind of a toss up again.
    I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
    : Open Mailbox

  • Power supply spark...fried mobo?

    Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
    So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
    His specs are:
    Athlon 64 3200
    MSI K8N Platinum
    X-Infinity case
    512 Geil Ram
    Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
    120 GB Hard drive
    Thanks

    Gildan,
    You asked the following:
    btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with  voltage multimeter (VMM).
    Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
    VMM USAGE INFORMATION
    Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
    Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
    If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
    CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
    If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
    I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
    CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
    Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
    Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
    (Put red lead sensor on green dot)
    Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
    Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
    Have fun,

  • G4 just replaced power supply , it powers up , but the screen is not on and the mouse and keyboard aren't on either. A few times the computer came on with screen working but then it froze up, can't do any type of reset cause of keyboard not working. Help!

    G4 just replaced power supply , it powers up , but the screen is not on and the mouse and keyboard aren't on either. A few times the computer came on with screen working but then it froze up, can't do any type of reset cause of keyboard not working. Help! Pressed pmu button already,  nothing ,..  Ppc g4 Mac

    Should I check the memory cards themselves? Reseat them?
    Yes.
    Memtest X or Rember to test the RAM.
    Reseat is also good.
    The iPhone 4 doesn't like USB 1.1 much.
    after the update the computer was working well, except for this freeze when ever I connect iPhone.
    I'd try USB 2.0 PCI. That's how I connect my iPhone 4s, and have connected all iPhones and iPods, to my G4.
    Never an issue.
    Can't say the same for USB 1.1.......
    The above (previous post) linked PCI card is cheap enough.
    Want cheaper, try this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Protronix®-5-Port-Controller-Card-Chipset/dp/B005JE2U82/re f=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337472141&sr=8-2
    The NEC chipset is the desired chipset, regardless of what OS the maker says is compatible.
    OS X has native NEC chipset USB support.

  • Will this power supply be enought for a KM2M Combo-L Machine

    Will the following work with a 145 Watt Power supply?
    Basically I've got an Enlight Case I would like to use but it only has a 145 Watt Power supply.
    - MSI Motherboard for AMD processors Model KM2M Combo-L
    Chipset:VIA® ProSavageDDR KM266
    FSB:200/266MHz
    RAM:Supports four memory banks using two 184-pin DDR DIMMs or two 168-pin SDRAM DIMMs Max 2GB
    IDE:Ultra DMA 66/100/133 Up to 4 Devices
    Slots:1x AGP (AGP 2.0 2x/4x ) and 3 PCI 32 Bit
    Ports:1xFDD,1xCOM,1xLPT,2xPS2,VGA,LAN and Audio Ports
    Onboard LAN:6103 PHY 10/100 Mbs
    Onboard VGA: ProSavage8 2D/3D Graphic
    Onboard Audio: Realtek ALC 650
    - AMD Athlon XP 1700+ Thoroughbred /266 FSB Processor CPU 1700+/ 1.47GHz
    AXDA1700
    CPU: 1.47 GHz
    Type: 1700 XP Thoroughbred
    Cache: 256K
    BUS: 266MHz
    Micron: .13
    Socket A
    - CRUCIAL MICRON 256MB 32x64 PC 2100 DDR RAM
    184-Pin, CL=2.5-Unbuffered 2.5V, 6-Layers
    - Maxtor 40GB 7200RPM Hard Drive Model
    Size: 40 Gigabytes
    Interface: IDE ULTRA ATA133
    Seek time: RPM:7200
    Cache 2MB
    - Microsoft Multimedia Keyboard & Wheel Mouse
    - Aceex V.92 Full Duplex FaxModem PCI Voice, Data, Fax Modem 56000bps Modem
    - Cyberdrive 40x16x48 CDRW CD-RW Drive CW078
    Buffer: 2MB
    Read Speed: 48x for closed sessions.16x for open sessions. Maximum 40x for audio extraction
    Write Speed 4x, 8x,12x, 16x, 20x (CLV) and 20x, 24x, 28x, 32x, 36x, 40x (ZCLV) for CD-R media. 4x, 8x, 12x and 16x CLV for CD-RW media
    Access Time: 100 ms typical for random access, 100 ms typical for 1/3 stroke
    Power Supply: DC +5V ?5%, DC +12V ?10%
    Interface:Enhanced IDE (E-IDE)
    MTBF > 100,000 POH (25% duty, seek and read)
    CPU FAN|HAC-V81 BASE COPPER AMD/INTEL)
    Supported Socket type: Socket A, 370, 462 Processors:
    Intel P3 Cumine up to 1.13GHz, Celeron (tualatin up to 1.6Ghz)
    AMD Duron up to 1.7GHz, all Athlons up to 2600+
    Fan Dimension 80 x 80 x 25 mm
    Rated Speed 2500 ~ 4800 RPM
    Air Flow 31.4 ~ 62.8 CFM
    Rated Voltage 12 VDC
    Heat Sink Dimension 80 x 69 x 45 mm

    Depending on what company made the PS, most companies over exagerate what they will do, or give a peak power output instead of a constant rated amprage. If thier PS will maintain a constant 200watt under full load, then it will get the job done in a all-in-1 unit. Check this page for power consumption of all your parts. It`s kinda old and the values for the VC and processors could be a bit higher, but it will give you a good idea.

  • 8800 Ultra OC - Symptoms of an unpowered power supply?

    I have an 8800 ultra OC and am experiencing some issues.  I am attempting to determine the cause and one of the stick posts says to not under estimate the importance of the power supply.
    I upgraded to an Antec trupower trio 650 W thinking that should be sufficient.  However, looking at the specs, it looks like the Amps might not be enough (+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected] ).
    The probelms I am seeing is some textures drop on occasion, leaving big blocks of black.  Other times it is less severe with checkerboarding on certain textures.  It also got to the point where my machine would lock up all together.
    I know it is not heat as I have the side of the case removed and a fan blowng directly on the card.  Using Riva Tuner, I never see temps over 75C.
    So, could it be the PS not quite putting out enough juice?  The card?  Driver?  Something else?
    Thanks!

    Sorry, was in a hurry to post and jumped the gun.
    Here are the specs on my system:
    # CPU brand, model and speed: Intel Core 2 Quad @2.4 GHz (Q6600)
    # Motherboard model: Asus Basswood 3G
    # Memory brand, type/speed, size, number of sticks: 2x 1 GB PC 5300 @667, 2x 512mb PC 5300 @667
    # Video card brand, chipset type, memory size: MSI 8800 Ultra OC
    # Hard drive(s) brand, size, type, speed: 2x Western Digital 320 gb Raid 0
    # Any other peripheral cards and devices: Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1600 NTSC/ATSC Combo
    # Operating system and version: Windows Vista Ultimate 32 bit
    # Power Supply Unit brand and output in watts and DC output (amps): Antec trupower trio 650 W (+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected] )
    Do you use latest VGA drivers from Nvidia?  Yes, I am running the 163.75 drivers posted on November 6th (nvidia.com)
    Where the issue comes?  It is particularly bad in Gears of War.  Halo 2 also expereinces issues.  There is no particular pattern I can see for when it happens.
    Have you connected both power cables to the VGA?  Yes
    Yes can be PSU problem, what is max combined amperes @ +12V?  I am not sure where to find this information.  Here are the specs:
    Spec
    Type ATX12V 
    Maximum Power 650W 
    Fans 1 x 120mm low noise cooling fan 
    PFC Active 
    Main Connector 20+4Pin 
    +12V Rails 3 x +12V 
    PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin 
    NVIDIA SLI Support nVIDIA SLI certified 
    Modular Cabling Support No 
    Efficiency Up to 85% 
    Over Voltage Protection Yes 
    Input Voltage 100 - 240 V 
    Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz 
    Input Current 10 A 
    Output +3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected] 
    MTBF >80,000 Hours 
    Also forgot to mention I have no issues just running non graphic programs (word, IE, etc).  It only happens when running games.

  • Power supply & gpu upgrade advice for s5-1250d

    I'm looking to upgrade the power supply & graphics card on my HP Pavilion Slimline s5-1250d
    Product no.:H1M79AA#AB4
    OS:Win7 Home Premium SP1
    Motherboard:Joshua-H61-uATX, Chipset: Intel H61, Memory sockets: 2 x DDR3
    I'm looking to upgrate to a power supply with at least 500W, and preferably a Radeon R9 270; so any motherboard  compatibility issues should I lookout for?

    Hi,
    I don't know if there exists a 500 watt power supply that will work in your PC. How do you expect to handle all of the heat generated in a very small cabinet?
    HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
    HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
    HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
    Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
    Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
    Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

  • Is my power supply enough for an athlon xp 2000+?

    Hi, I have a TurboLink 350W powersupply, it came with my case, AND I'D LIKE TO KEEP IT
    I have a Athlon 1.1ghz rite now, and i want to upgrade to an Athlon XP 2000+, and i was wondering, my power supply should be enough for that, right??
    +3.3/24A
    +5/35A
    +12/12A
    im not sure about the +12, but look at Dell.  My dad has a 4600 w/P4 2.4 + Sapphire Radeon 9800 PRO, and dell only ships with 250W power supplies!! and P4's use more power than Athlon Xp's, and i dont have a radeon...i have a FX5200.  My dad even has SATA, so....i think my 350 is fine, but i dont want to pull my hair out [STRIKEOUT]if[/STRIKEOUT] my athlon doesnt work and i think its the motherboard or something, when its the P.S...., so.

    Quote
    3. My Dad has a Dell Dimension 4600 w/250W Power Supply
    I'll tell you how that is powered with that crappy PSU.
    1. Dell sells computers.
    2. They have an average 1 year warrentty.
    3. When they quit, see No. 1
    A few years back, my mother bought an E-Machine (AKA: the green E of death) that came with a 185W PSU. The PSU has already gone out once, and due to the way it mounts, there was nothing more powerful that would fit in that case, so I replaced the crappy PSU with another crappy ($20) 185W PSU. Next time the PSU fails, I'll pull the drives, and toss the case/mobo, and start over.
    As for Antec PSU's, well, look at my sig, you will notice I have a 300W Antec. While it is rather weak, the KT266A/KM266 chipset boards and eariler, generally do not power everything except memory from the 12V rail.
    While other manufacturers still use the 3.3V and 5V rail to power most of the board, the 12V rail will soon be the most used rail on almost all motherboards.

  • Would this be a unnessasary upgrade (Power Supply)

    Ok this is my power supply Rhycom 550W ATX Power Supply Dual Fans Gold I bought at the local Marketpro computer show for $25 bucks. NOw when I seen the 550 watts I said to myself thats more then enuff power.But then I found this great msi fourm page and see I am  very rookie on the whole psu thing. I tried to use the power supply calculator but I would rather Have some expert advise on this and any help would be great I will upgrade if I have to I dont mind at all. So should I upgrade are is this just fine....
    Link to the psu I have http://tekgems.com/Products/et-9619-pwr-atx550p4-nb.htm

    I might be missing something on that website but I could not find the
    Max output combined watts for the 3.3v and 5v rails. Don’t buy any
    PSU that does not have at least 200 combined watts!
    Also, if you add up the amps I come up with 532 amps @ 100%,
    now if you take those 532 amps @ 70% you get 372.4 amps,
     that’s not to good for a 550watt PSU!
    Usually in PSU, you get what you pay for!
    Take a look at this thread on “Choosing the right power supply” by
     clarkkent57 its a very good read:
    Choosing the right
    power supply
    Take care,      
    The H2O Guru
    If You Build The Circuit, The Electrons Will Come, You Hope!
    Enermax  550 v1.2 EG651P-VE PSU
    +3.3V @ 36A / +5V @ 36A / +12V @ 36A
    +5V & +3.3v = 200Watts
    Nvidia MB Chipset Drivers v3.13
    Nvidia VGA Drivers v56.72

  • I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug.  Cold now.  Could it just be the power supply?  Can I replace that myself?

    This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box. 
    I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
    I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica.  Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house.  I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip.  There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
    When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
    First questions:  Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
    Next question:  Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service?  How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
    Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
    If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder.  I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook.  My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed.  I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    Thanks for any help you can give.

    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
    http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

    I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
    computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
    didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
    seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
    video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
    only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
    it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
    or just funning with the latest games.
    What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
    usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
    over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
    And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
    choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
    Well...Do we have your attention!?
    If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
    your PSU is trying to tell you something.
    To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
    supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
    their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
    and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
    only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
    that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
    One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
    foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
    It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
    PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
    become noisier as time goes by.
    As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
    then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
    If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
    APM (Advanced Power Management)
    APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
    to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
    are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
    function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
    All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
    are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
    modes.
    ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
    It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
    is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
    concerned about this feature.
    Line-Conditioning Circuitry
    A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
    the most unreliable of home sockets.
    EMI Filter
    This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
    as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
    PFCC
    Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
    delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
    Connectors
    There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
    1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
    2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
    3) Molex peripheral power connector
    4) Floppy power connector
    5) Serial ATA power connector
    On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
    Know What You Need
    When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
    install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
    products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
    really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
    recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
    as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
    worth looking into.
    If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
    Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
    calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
    Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
    150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
    to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
    Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
    can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
    an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
    each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
    the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Modular Power Supplys:
    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
    Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
    the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
    your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
    Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

    Quote
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
    I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

  • MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU power supply problem

    Hello !
    I am a lucky owner of MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU motherboard but have one problem. My power supply Fortron (FSP Group) 300-GT 300W seems to have some kind of incompatibility with this motherboard. In my case, the computer can't be shutted down by software. With BIOS version 2.5 it was impossible to shut it down with button too. With 2.6 it is possible to turn the computer off by button but software shutdown still don't work. PSU is working on ALL other boards I have tested so far normally. Somewhere in discussions (not in this forums) I discovered that also some kind of weird sounds occurs with Fortron supply on this board and that it is incompatible. Have anyone some clues to solve this PSU problem ? I am not able momentally to buy some other kind of PSU because Fortron is the only brand from higher category to obtain, so I would be like to solve this.....
    Thanks for any info !

    Voltage readings from sensors (current data):
    w83697hf-isa-0290
    Adapter: ISA adapter
    Algorithm: ISA algorithm
    VCore:     +1.76 V  (min =  +0.00 V, max =  +0.00 V)
    +3.3V:     +3.34 V  (min =  +2.97 V, max =  +3.63 V)
    +5V:       +4.89 V  (min =  +4.50 V, max =  +5.48 V)
    +12V:     +11.89 V  (min = +10.79 V, max = +13.11 V)
    -12V:     -12.44 V  (min = -13.21 V, max = -10.90 V)
    -5V:       -5.01 V  (min =  -5.51 V, max =  -4.51 V)
    V5SB:      +5.51 V  (min =  +4.50 V, max =  +5.48 V)
    VBat:      +3.42 V  (min =  +2.70 V, max =  +3.29 V)
    fan1:     4560 RPM  (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
    fan2:     2033 RPM  (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
    temp1:       +40°C  (limit =  +60°C)                       sensor = thermistor
    temp2:     +44.5°C  (limit =  +60°C, hysteresis =  +50°C) sensor = thermistor
    PSU is powering Athlon XP 1700+ processor, the other big power consumer is GeForce4 Ti 4200 GPU. I am not able read currents for specific voltage outputs, so I am not able to measure whole power consumption. Computer is working normally, it is NOT overclocked (but it is stable overclocked too) and the only problem is PSU shutdown by software (win & linux, both of them has this problem). From BIOS v2.6 it is possible to shutdown the computer by power button. If it is tried by software, computer resets itself and three beeps occurs.

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