PowerBook G4 to Phillips 30PW9100D

I have tried connecting my PowerBook G4 to my Phillips 30PW9100D HDTV with a DVI output to component input,but nothing shows up on the screen.I want to use my computer as a dvd player for my tv.Is there a special setting I must change on my notebook or tv?

Hardware Overview:
Model Name:          PowerBook G4 15"
Model Identifier:          PowerBook5,6
Processor Name:          PowerPC G4 (1.2)
Processor Speed:          1.5 GHz
Number Of CPUs:          1
L2 Cache (per CPU):          512 KB
Memory:          1 GB
Bus Speed:          167 MHz
Boot ROM Version:          4.9.1f1
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State:          Enabled
Version:          1.0

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Mac Mini G4 Unsupported Video Format DVI to HDMI 42 Phillips 1080P LCD TV

When connecting my Mac Mini G4 to my 42" Phillips 1080P LCD TV using a DVI to HDMI cable I get a message on the TV "Unsupported Video Format" message. I can connect my PowerBook G4 using the same cable and it connects great.
One thing I have noticed is when connecting my Mini via DVI cable to my 17" LCD monitor the screen is a fated red. But using a VGA cable the screen is fine. I don't know if this is having to do anything with the issue of connecting to my LCD TV.
Any suggestions?

Make sure the connections are good and tighten down the thumb screws on all connectors. If two monitors are giving problems with DVI, it could be there is a hardware problem with the DVI port on the mini.
Also, try starting in Safe mode (boot while holding down the shift key) and see if you get a useable screen in that case. If you still get the unsupported video format message, then that would further suggest some hardware problem with DVI.

Can I use an External Hard Drive for both my Powerbook ad my PC?

I would like to purchase an external hard drive for safety reasons.
Can I store both information of my PC and my Powerbook on the same ext. hard drive? Probably a dumb question but I'd still like to know...
Thanks in advance.
Milli.

Any should do. Buy an external enclosure, purchase a bare drive of your choice, do your own installation. Takes 5 minutes. Save a little money. It's relatively easy and only requires a Phillips head screwdriver (typically.) You can purchase hard drives separately. This gives you an opportunity to shop for the best prices on a hard drive of your choice. Reliable brands include Seagate, Hitachi, Western Digital, Toshiba, and Fujitsu. You can find reviews and benchmarks on many drives at Storage Review.
Enclosures for FireWire and USB are readily available. You can find only FireWire enclosures, only USB enclosures, and enclosures that feature multiple ports. I would stress getting enclosures that use the Oxford chipsets especially for Firewire drives (911, 921, 922, for example.) You can find enclosures at places such as;
Cool Drives
OWC
WiebeTech
Firewire Direct
California Drives
NewEgg
All you need do is remove a case cover, mount the hard drive in the enclosure and connect the cables, then re-attach the case cover. Usually the only tool required is a small or medium Phillips screwdriver.

Powerbook G4/G5 CD/DVD Drive Problem

My cd/dvd drive is not working properly. When I put a dvd/cd into the drive it moves but nothing shows up on my desktop. Sometimes it spits it back out. What is the problem. How do I make it work?

Here's how I resurrected my "dead" laptop DVD-ROM Drive
Recently I placed a CD in the DVD-ROM (Model M7931, Apple P/N 661-2244) drive on my G3 Pismo laptop to install some software. I heard some slow and fast spin sounds, but the CD icon did not appear on the Desktop. I removed the CD and inserted a DVD, but got the same results. The drive's lens was clean and the drive appeared in the System Profiler. When I replaced the DVD-ROM drive with a CD-ROM drive (M73888), the CD drive read a CD, so apparently the electronics within the G3 were OK.
I did some Google searching for possible solutions. I read in several forums that these DVD drives have been problematic, primarily with a failed motor. Looking on eBay and some Mac hardware sites revealed that used ones appear to cost $50+ and new ones about $100+. The Service Manual troubleshooting doesn't suggest much, except replace. I thought there might be an alternate (cheaper $) PC drive that could be used. I found this site Replacing or Upgrading the Optical Drive in Your PowerBook G3 or 1400
http://lowendmac.com/rivera/06/0124.html that suggested replacing the Apple drive with a PC drive.
I decided that since I had a CD-ROM drive, I probably would not spend $ for an Apple drive at this time, but I might look for a PC drive.
In the meantime, I thought that since the drive was inop and possibly need to be trashed, I was not adverse to trying to disassemble and attempt a repair.
There are 3 things in the arsenal of most guys (and many gals) to fix problems - use WD-40 lubricant, use duct tape and/or use bailing wire. It seemed that the tape and wire were not viable solutions for this problem.
I opened the drive tray from it's enclosure. Using a #0 jeweler's Phillips screwdriver, I removed the metal cover plate screws (5). Then removed the screws (3) holding the motor/plate assembly. I carefully lifted the motor assembly upward at about a 45 degree angle (flex cables were attached). Looking at the side, there was about a 1mm gap between the motor & the plate. Using the plastic nozzle on a can of WD-40, I sprayed a small amount of lubricant. Let it sit for a few minutes and rotated the spindle. Reassembled everything.
I inserted a CD, didn't hear any spinning noise and the CD icon appeared on the screen. Repeated with a DVD. Both were being read. Yea!!!!!!!!!!!! It's fixed. WD-40, the miracle solution. How long it will last? I don't know, but for now it's working.
 Cheers, Tom

How I fixed the colored vertical lines on my Mac Powerbook G4 17"

Hello all,
I know that many people with a Powerbook G4 17" are suffering from the colored vertical line problem on their displays. This is were a pixel wide vertical line of color (yellow, green, purple, red, and/or blue) randomly appears on the laptop's display, usually between 24-36 months after purchase. This is also known on various internet forums as the "bridget riley effect" -- named after a painter whose art looks very similar to this effect. Many, if not all, of the laptops that suffer from this defect are 17" displays and have a serial number that starts with W8. Mine starts with W85; you can check yours by looking underneath the battery. It usually starts off as just one line, then two, then a few months pass and before you know it your screen looks like this:
This is my screen two years after the first line showed up, which was two and half years after getting it in December of 2005. Not so pretty. And completely useless without an external display, kind of killing the purpose of a Laptop. As a film editor I needed my screen to see the images and more importantly I needed it to be mobile. There's not always a screen to plug into.
I tried getting Apple to fix the problem, but apparently they're just ignoring the fact that almost all the laptops that came from this certain factory in Thailand (indicated by the serial number starting with W8) have failing displays. They delete threads and forums on their website, and try to censor and ignore the problem as much as they can. Unless some huge media blitz happens, or there is some kind of legitimate lawsuit, I highly doubt they ever will do anything about it, and you can't really blame them. They are a big business and addressing this problem with cost them potentially millions in repairs and tarnish their reputation as a quality manufacturer, and Apple's biggest commodity is its reputation. It ***** that Apple allowed this kind of thing to happen, but as things stand right now, it would be a poor business decision to fix it.
So, fellow vertical line sufferers, AKA the W8 club, my advice to you is stop holding out hope that they will pay for your screen to be fixed and get it done yourself! If you do it right you can get it done for between $60-$99. Here's how I did it.
First off, know that this is a hardware problem. There is no setting in system preferences you can change that will make the lines go away. There are failing physical parts in your computer to blame and they need to be replaced.
Second, in order to keep things as cheap as possible, you are going to replace the parts. It's actually pretty easy.
Thirdly, you are going to need a whole new display. I thought maybe if I replaced the display data cable (the cable that runs from the computer under the key board to the back of the screen) it might solve the problem very cheaply, since a brand new one only costs about $9 online. I took the computer apart, replaced the cable, but the display did not change at all. So the problem is the screen, not the cable. I needed a whole new screen, however, a brand spanking new one can cost between $350-$600. So I went on eBay, typed in my computer, and looked for computers that were being sold for "parts" or "repair." These are usually much cheaper because they are not working computers, but you don't need the computer to work, you just need the display to work. If you do this, make sure you read the descriptions. If there's any mention of display problems, move on and keep looking. You don't want to replace the display only to have the lines show up all over again a few months down the line. They wont always give you the serial number, but obviously try to stay away from serial numbers that start with W8. I found a used Powerbook being sold for parts for $63. It didn't have RAM, or a Hard-drive, or screws to keep the keyboard on, but the display apparently had no issues. With shipping and handling it cost me $94 total and three days to get it. The serial number started with V7. I'm sure with a little patience and vigilance, you can find something just as cheap or even cheaper.
NOTE: Some powerbooks have High-Res display screens, so make sure you know which screen yours has so you know which to look for.
Now, how to actually replace the display. I used an awesome website called ifixit.com. They give you detailed easy-to-follow instructions with photographs. I'll let them give you the nitty gritty of how to replace the display. Here is the actual How-to guide I used:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-17-Inch-1-1-67-GHz- Display/258/1
The only tools you really need are a small phillips head screwdriver and a T6 and T8 Torx screwdriver (they are starred on the end, as oppose to crossed like the end of a phillips head). They say you need a "spudger" but I didn't. You can get these at any hardware or auto-parts store. Return them when your done if you are really on a budget, but you might want to take more part from this new computer in the future, so your call. You'll need to print out the instructions first, or use another computer to follow them since you obviously can't use your Powerbook. Find a flat, well-lit work space, preferably near a TV so you don't get bored while working, and use the how-to guide to switch the old display with the new one. It only took me a couple of hours to finish the whole thing, and I didn't have to pay a repair man hundreds. My display works perfectly now! It's so nice to be have the mobility of a laptop again (especially since the computer i got off of eBay came with a battery that can actually hold a charge).
NOTE: There are a bunch of screws and a few small parts that will need to be taken out while replacing the display, and its important they all go back in their proper spots. So I highly recommend you take a long piece of tape, loop it, and stick it flat onto the side of your work space. As you take out each screw or small part, stick them in order to the tape. This way nothing gets lost and when you work backwards to put your computer back together you'll always know which screw or small part is next in line and which one the how-to guide is referring to.
I really hope this helps people with this problem. This seems to be the only solution. And for less than $100 bucks, I think its worth it, especially since you now have back up parts for any other part of your computer that might fail in the future. My disc drive stopped working recently so I'm replacing it with the one that came with the computer I got off eBay; a $90 part. I tried to make this as easy-to-follow, practical, and comprehensive as I could -- for as cheap as I could. GOOD LUCK!!!
-R

I suspect not. There are long threads with hundreds of reports, most with PowerBooks whose serial numbers began with W8 (or W85). Still there is no Repair Extension Program for this issue.
At this point, your only recourse is to discuss the issue with Apple Consumer Relations at 1-800-767-2775, if you are in North America.

Wiping Hard Drive on PowerBook 1400 that won't boot from CD

A colleague has a PowerBook 1400 and would like to erase the hard disk drive. The problem is that I can't get another drive attached to the machine, Startup Disk crashes whenever I try to start it, and command-alt-shift-delete doesn't enable booting from the CD (the 1400 doesn't work with the C key on startup).
So, I can't get it to boot from the original media (which has OS 8.6, I think); I also tried booting from DBAN, but that didn't work.
I also can't get the installer on the original media to run. So I tried to create the Disk Tools disks using the original (CD) media, copying the folder to the desktop and then removing the CD and putting in the floppy drive, thinking that Disk Tools might very well have a formatting tool, but that failed, claiming that the image for Disk 1 is bad (I imagine it's not the image, but a problem with the computer).
We're not interested in getting the computer running, really (though it runs ok), just in wiping the HD. Any suggestions? Are the Disk Tool images something that Disk Utility on an OS X machine will recognize as a floppy disk image?

Well, I thought that wouldn't work. Guess what? It did. After zapping the PRAM, had no trouble booting into the CD. However, the disk tools didn't seem to include a secure wipe tool, so I finally ended up removing the hard drive and plugging that into my MacBook with a 2.5 in. USB enclosure and using Disk Utility to do a secure wipe, then putting the drive back in the machine and reinstalling OS 8.6.
In case anyone else is looking for a solution to this problem, to remove the drive: unplug the laptop, remove the battery, unscrew the three phillips screws on the edge of the battery slot, then the screw nearest the PCMCIA card slot, then remove the speaker grill, slide out the keyboard, unscrew the two screws at the top of the hard disk drive tray, separate the case slightly from the left front corner just enough to slip the hard drive ribbon out from underneath the top of the case, unplug the drive, then unscrew it from the drive tray.
Thank you all for your help.

Powerbook Spillage

I know this is the wrong thread to put this in, but everyone seems to be an expert in here. I made the fatal error of spilling Southern Comfort on my powerbook keyboard. Yes, i know...please don't rub it in. This is not good.
Bottom line is that there is no audio anymore, the bootup is taking about 5 minutes and during the bootup it says,'safe boot'. a lot of my buttons are not working where the spill was.
I've already been looking at getting a new mac so i can deal with my stupid mistake, but just tell me...is it bye bye to my powerbook?
my other question would be that i am going to buy a g5 tower. i need some advice on which one would be good for me. logic pro is my main application and i am running about 15-20 virtual instruments per song and i would like it to run smoothly. can anyone point me in the right direction?
new? used? thank you.
Powerbook 1.67 2g RAM Mac OS X (10.3.9)

for the 15":
#0 phillips screw driver needed.
and a 1.5mm torx driver
and some kind of stick or card
I just found a link for you to use. it is the take apart for the 15" powerbook with fw 800:
http://eric.bachard.free.fr/mac/pbg415_fw/pbg4_15fw800.pdf
good luck.
you are going to have to remove the entire top case. use an ice tray to keep the screws seperated.
this is for the 12" powerbook.
The G4 powerbook keyboard is pretty easy to take off.
remove the plate on the bottom of the keyboard where the ram goes. there is a black screw there. remove the screw.
then you have to pop off the f2 and f12 keys or maybe is it is f1 and f12 (actually it is all 4) to do this use a little screw driver to pop the keys off. just put it on the left edge and pop it up real quick. this will keep the spring device connected to the keyboard, and just pop up the key. (the screw is located under the white sticker)
the keyboard will pop up when these 3 screws have been removed. from there you can peal back the foil, and then remove the keyboard by pulling it off the logic board. be carefull because the ribbon cable breaks really easy.
THIS WILL VOID ANY WARRANTY, BUT SO WILL SPILLAGE..
to iS,
SoCo? i am from the south, and we don't do SoCo down here. it is Makers Mark, and Scotch. LOL
Just kidding. Not about the Makers and Scotch.. have a good day..

1GB PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2 Does this work on the 867 Mhz Powerbook?

PNY 1GB PC2-5300 667MHz DDR2 SODIMM
Does this work on the 12-inch 867 Mhz Powerbook?
I know for a fact that it can be upgraded to 1 Gigabyte, but I'm not sure of the exact brands/models that are compatible.

So is the 1 GB PC2700 the highest/newest model that can be used?
You could install, for example, PC3200 DDR memory, however, the Powerbook will only use it at the PC2700 level. So no advantage there from a performance standpoint.
I'm not asking if I can go higher than 1 GB. I already know that 1GB is the maximum. I'm asking if there are other 1 GB cards besides the PC2700. Perhaps other cards that are available and compatible.
I would stick with Crucial, Kingston (not their valueram), or Samsung memory. You have the link to Crucial, and Kingston is at http://www.kingston.com and Samsung is sold through distributors. OWC at http://www.macsales.com is one vendor I've bought from and would recommend. I've used all 3 brands in Powerbooks with no issues.
Also this is off topic, but where can I find the tool to remove the certain screws near the keyboard and the lower part of the monitor?
Tools you might be using are a #0 Phillips head (Lowe's $2 with a companion small flathead), a T6 Torx screwdriver (should also be available at Lowe's), a 4mm socket, and possibly a small allen hex wrench.

Should we upgrade PowerBook G4?

My wife has a last generation PowerBook G4 15" that she bought for her work 2 years ago. It was loaded with MS Office 2004 and some Adobe creative software such as Photoshop CS2 and Illustrator CS2, all licensed on her company which she doesn't work for anymore.
Recently we started thinking about upgrading to Leopard but we are also worrying about losing all the software that was once free to us. We want to be sure that there won't be any kind of performance issues for the computer or for the software. Just for your information, we upgraded the RAM to 2 GB and we have an external hard drive to back up the computer before upgrading to Leopard.
So, is there anyone out there who had problems, like losing installed software, or slowing down a perfectly running machine while trying to upgrade to Leopard?

I upgraded my iMac G4 to 1.25Gbytes of memory, then I did the "erase and install" upgrade variation. It's running great without any problems. MS Office 2004 reinstallation is "drag and drop" so it shouldn't be a problem. I cannot say much for Adobe CS2. I have it as well but I haven't reinstalled it on my iMac. I agree with W.L., you'll probably need the Adobe installation disk for CS2, but I could be wrong.
I do not recommend the "upgrade" installation procedure. Do either "Erase and install" or "Archive and install".
Tomorrow I am upgrading my son's PowerBook G4 with memory, then Leopard. I'll let you know how it goes. BTW, be careful with the screws on the memory cover. They are very very small. You definitely DO NOT want to strip the #0 phillips head.

PowerBook G4 Keeps falling asleep!

After doing some research I discovered this problem was being cause by the on-board sensors. I opened up my powerbook and remove the heat sensor under the track pad and both the right and left optical sensors. The heat sensor removal requires someone with a steddy hand and micro tip soldering iron. The optical sensors are removed with a phillips screw driver. Hope this info helps:)

Hello
I had the same problem. I turned out to be the Keyboard Key Lighting brightness control.
This control is located approx on a line below the Number keys and above the QWERTY Keys to the left of the {tab} key. I had to get a bright light (flashlight?) to shine on the speaker area approx. on the line described above the restart the computer. It ran normally untill the light was removed, or until My Hand passed over the area, or someone else pointed to my screen and broke the light's path. You may be lucky if you start the computer with a light and are careful you may be able to cancel the beyboard brightness control in the System Prefs.
Ultimately I found that the problem was started by a power connection that was bent by use.
I did not fix it, only minimized the distress to the user.

Powerbook 17 inch beeping!!!!!! HELP!

Today my powerbook started making some soft beeps internally not from the speakers... i bought it at the Apple store in houston on Novembert and they isntalled the aditional 1GB of ram.. it was working great!! until today.. I checked Hardware test and came ok.. so i dont know what is wrong...
It beeps when Im typing a document in texedit, word and right now at this forum...
whats wrong...
Please Help..

This issue is starting to "sound" (pun) more like a hardware glich even though you ran the hardware test.
I would hesitate (for now) doing a complete clean by Onyx, since nearly all your settings and preferences would have to be redone ... a pain!
Rather than continue to perform trial & error approaches (with the risk of really creating bigger problems), return to the Apple Store in Houston and have the tech check-out each RAM module and the PB itself.
You could try one more thing first: after shutting down the PB, remove power cable, remove the battery, discharge the static (see PB manual for RAM installation info), carefully remove the RAM cover plate (use a very small Phillips screwdriver or small eyeglass screwdriver), carefully remove RAM modules, switch their position and FIRMLY reseat each RAM module.
Replace the RAM cover plate without stripping the screws ... put back the battery ... plug in the power cable ... reboot.
If that doesn't help .... on to Houston!
DIXIE
iMacG4/800MHz/60GBHD/768MB;12PB/867MHz/60GBHD/1.12GB; G3/256MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

PowerBook G3 Pismo 400 Mhz Mega Max Upgrade Ideas?

Hi guys,
I have a PowerBook G3 Pismo (400 Mhz) and I would like to know what the best possible upgrade would be for a machine of this age? HD, RAM, Batt. Thanks!

needsomeihelp:
You will find popular brands of RAM with comparative prices at ramseeker. I have also purchased RAM, with good results from Kahlon. Note that some of these vendors offer free shipping. In addition, their RAM is guaranteed for life. If you buy at eBay you buy at your own risk, so be sure to ask questions.
To access the RAM slots:
• Disconnect Power adapter and remove main battery from bay.
• Lift off the keyboard by pulling back on the tabs next to the esc key and between F8 and F9, and lay keyboard face down on palm rest;
• Remove Microprocessor EMI shield by removing the two screws and lifting off shield.
• Remove the long Phillips screw from the bottom left side of the heat exchanger.
Important: Do not remove the two screws holding the heat exchanger to the microprocessor board as this will break the seal of the thermal paste to the processor, and you will need to remove the old thermal paste and put new stuff.
• Pull up on the tab on the right side of the board to release it from its connector. The connector is along the bottom, right side of the board. If the tab is missing bend a paper clip and hook it in the hole from the underside and lift.
Note: When replacing the board leave the top RAM module off, press down hard on the front right of the board until you feel the connector snap into place. It is very important that the card is properly seated or you may not be able to start the computer.
• Insert RAM module in bottom slot, replace processor board, the insert RAM module in top slot.
Good luck.
cornelius
PS: Thank you for leaving feedback in Apple Discussions by marking "helpful" and "solved" posts.
Cheers
cornelius

PowerBook + Magnetic Screwdriver = Bye bye PowerBook?

Hi.
Stupid question perhaps. I bought some new memory for my PowerBook and am itching to fit it and see the improvements. But I am having real trouble finding a shop that sells 00 Phillips screwdrivers!
(The woman in PC World actually laughed at me when I asked if they sold them! Not going there again.)
I did find some screwdrivers in MUJI (hoorah for MUJI), but they are magnetic. Will I wreck my PowerBook if I unscrew the hatch on the back with this magnetic screwdriver?
Any idea where I can get a non-magnetic one??

I doubt the power of a magnetic screwdriver of that size would cause any harm. The PowerBook itself has a small magnet in the side of the screen. It's powerful enough to hold a paperclip at least.
I got my screwdriver from Sears (US), I think, or was it somewhere else, because they were out the first time I checked. Maybe it was Radio Shack…
Anyway, a magnetic screwdrive could come in handy with those itty bitty tiny screws.

Half my Powerbook G4 Display Just Went Out!

My promblems started in June when I got one vertical line. In July I got another.
Now, Half my screen just went blank. No vertical lines. Nothing. Just several fat pink lines in the middle (about 2 inches across) and the rest of my screen is white!
My 17" screen has now been converted into a 8" screen! When will this end? When will Apple do something about this?

I hope you're right, but I'm not optimistic. It's hard to imagine that any amount of jostling of the outside of the Powerbook could disturb the display cable inside the hinge without causing visible external damage, but it's not hard to imagine heavy pressure on the display while in transit damaging the LCD panel. I gather that the Powerbook wasn't well packaged on the plane, and may even have been in a piece of checked luggage. That would certainly be a recipe for disaster.
The "bizarre proprietary screws" used in Powerbooks aren't proprietary at all. They're standard Torx screws, and any good hardware store should have drivers to fit them. You'll need a Torx T-8 and, if you get into the interior of the machine, there are some Torx T-6 screws as well as Phillips #0 screws in there. You're right to wait until you can get the appropriate drivers, though — the screw heads are quite soft and easily stripped if you use the wrong size or kind of screwdriver in them.

Wrong 'mini dvi to video' adapter for my 12" Powerbook 1.33

I recently bought the M9319 mini dvi - video adapter for my 12" Powerbook 1.33 to find that the mini dvi on the adapter is a different size to the one on the computer and the adapters supplied with the computer.
I've been doing a bit of research into this and it seems a bit of a grey area. Apple have not made it clear in advertising this product that it is only suitable for the newest 12" Powerbooks and even state that it will work with a 1.33 machine in their following article:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86507
Has anyone had a similar experience, or suggest an alternative product that will work? Did Apple make an older version that works with the 1.33?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Graeme.

Just took the adapter to my local Apple store and they identified it as a mini VGA to video adapter - not what it said on the packaging!
I've noticed a few posts with this problem, so just double check before you leave the store that the packaging matches the product.

PowerBook G4 to Phillips 30PW9100D

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