Really Need Advice ASAP !

HI, I am hoping to get advice soon. My mac, ethernet port was damaged during a thunder storm here in Mexico...that was established after 2 techs checked out
the ISP here equipment. I was hooked up to DSL till then. Now have no choice
but DialUp, until I can find out what is best to do to once again be able to use DSL here. I have read about the "Base Station" - a router, an Airport Extreme
Card, etc. and while I am NOT at all in the league with 99% of you 'out there'
my *hunch is the "Base Station." They are listed for $200. I have not yet found out what it would cost here. All computers are double $$$ here, that I do know.
So if you can tell me what exactly I do NEED (I cannot use Dial UP as the owner's phone line is tied up so this is just for a few days she is away) so then I can figure out what I need to do to get it. IF I can afford it. Router? Is there any other way - or refurbished *Base Station* ? I am an artist/with very few
'pesos' - so it's going to be this and not much to eat. Thank You !!!

Hello and Welcome to Apple Discussions.You should be aware this is the iMac G4 (aka dome/iLamp) forum rather than the iMac G5 (iSight etc) forum. In future you'll be best to post there.
The best way for you to achieve a broadband internet connection is by using Airport.
You need two items:
Airport Extreme card - this may have been pre-installed when you bought your iMac (To check: Apple Menu > About This Mac > More Info ... > Network > Aiport.)
Wireless Router/modem - I have a Belkin one which is much cheaper than Apple's Airport Extreme Base Station (Incidentally Apple's one only allows for dial-up internet connection out of the box). The Belkin (there are other versions) is managed via a web page (easy) and replaces your current DSL modem but also acts as a wireless router (it's that feature which connects the modem to your iMac's Airport card rather than the Ethernet cable you used to use. I've just noticed that the links on the page I link to are the wrong product - they are a wireless router only - which should still be okay if you already have an Ethernet DSL modem.
regards
mrtotes

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    Also, and regardless of which particular program you choose, optimizing your computer, the OS, the hardware, and the resources management, will go a very long way to insuring success. Few programs can tax a computer, as an NLE can - any NLE. Video and Audio editing will stress your system, like almost nothing else can, except for heavy-duty CAD, or 3D work, though those are usually done only on specialized, optimized computers, designed just for those applications.
    Not the specific advice that you seek, but it's the best that I can do.
    Good luck,
    Hunt

  • Do I REALLY NEED such a powerful PSU???

    Guys,
    My problem is on the thread ("Daily Crashing - Total Hardware Shutdown"):
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=48219&sid=
    I appreciate all your advice about upgrading from my Nexus NX-3500 PSU .... I had previously written 350W with 18A on the 12V rail .... actually upon closer inspection the specs are 330W with 16A on the 12V rail.  Ok, I know this is not powerful enough, but as I said, I'm going to be using this PC for music recording, using very sensitive condenser microphones, and the PSUs recomended (Enermax 465 etc) really seem too loud.... the Enermax, for example, has a *minimum* load noise level of around 39dB(A)!  That might not interfere with the needs of a gamer or office worker, but it's really just too loud for use with recording.... once you get that unwanted noise recorded in audio, it's virtually impossible to remove it.
    It's been possible to build totally silent pc systems, using this same PSU, with Athlon XP CPUs.  I understand now that the A64 (and the MSI board it seems) needs a lot of power, but the figures that have been suggested to me (450W-550W) seem very heavy.  Reasons for thinking so:
    MESH (http://www.meshcomputers.com) is perhaps the largest UK PC retailer and regularly wins awards for reliability etc etc from all the top UK PC magazines.  They allow you to configure an Athlon 64 system with the follwing spec:
    * ATX tower
    * A64 3000+, 32000+, 34000+ and the A64FX versions
    * 2 SATA Hard Drives in Raid
    * up to 1GB RAM
    * TOP graphics cards (I mean the ones costing hundreds of pounds ... mine is bottom-end and should require a lot less power than these)
    * DVDRW
    * 2nd Optical Drive
    * Floppy
    ***** PSU 360W *****
    Now, they also offer extensive warranties with these systems.  My question is, would they offer this much power in a PC, with a full warranty, and be rated at the top of PC retailers in the UK, if their 360W PSU was not sufficient?  Now, my PC is LESS POWERFUL than the ones listed above, so why do I need to get a PSU thats so much more powerful?  Incidentally, they use the ASUS K8V Deluxe motherboard with the A64 systems ... does this board handle power better than my MSI KT8 NEO?... allowing you to use smaller PSUs?
    Furthermore, if you look at MESH's Shuttle-case (v.v.small) versions of the Athlon64 system ... they supply it with a 240W PSU!
    Finally, if you look at Sound On Sound magazine (which any of you remotely involved in music production will know) ... this month they did a review of silent PSUs .. and said that owners of 3GHz or faster CPUs, with 2 Hard Drives and 1GB of RAM, would probably be best served with 400W PSUs.  The 500W etc PSUs were recommended for dual-cpu systems or those with multiple DSP cards.
    I won't be playing games on this machine, or watching movies (which is why I just went for the bottom model GeForce graphics card FX5200 ... it doesn't even have a fan, so it shouldn't take up that much power).  A lot of you guys seem to have top-end graphics cards, and 3 or more hard disks, as well as faster CPUs than mine, so you should need more power than me.  In light of this, and bearing in mind that I really do need a very quiet PSU ... can you recommend something?  Will 400W really not be enough?  
    Silenx and Seasonic make 400W PSUs with 22A on the 12V rail.  Is this not sufficient?  The Silenx is supposed to work at 14dB(A) ... load is not specified.
    Please advise ... any comments much appreciated as really need to get this sorted fast.
    Fizz
    *******************************

    Quote
    Originally posted by Exion
    Thanks for the quick reply Jocko. I guess I got to take out the goodies for now, but I only have a Radeon X800 Pro video card so I have to put that in... If I do run all those stuff on my current power supply will it damage and short-circuit/fry my system components? One more thing, there are several Enermax power supply with the model number EG465P that provide +12V@33A and they are confusing to know the difference. Let me list them and give the link.
    460W
    Model#: EG465P-VE(FM)
    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-443&depa=0
    470W
    Model#: EG475P-VE-SFMA (This one has +12V@16A weird)
    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-446&depa=0
    460W
    Model#: EG465P-VE(FC) (has EMI reduction but the recent review was bad)
    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-440&depa=0
    460W
    Model#: EG465P-VE 24P
    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-488&depa=0
    431W
    Model#: EG465P-VE(FCA)     Out of stock  
    http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-103-419&depa=0
    Some reviews say there was not enough +12V power leads. Even when they purchased a Y-Splitter, the Enermax power supply did not have enough power, which does not sound so good for me. Besides the color, what is the difference between the VE(FM), VE-SFMA, VE(FC), VE 24P, VE(FCA)??? I went to Enermax's website and looked under power supplies and I could not find anything on those EG465P models (must be old models). Which EG465P power supply do you have Jocko? And which one do you recommend from the list above? Thanks.
    Hi Exion,
    Yes the first one looks OK, as long as it has a 4 pin square connector for Mobo, and an independant 4 pin Molex for Vid card. Don't see connectors listed.
    The second one is the one that SAB had I think, the 12v rail is split into 2 rails, not so good.  The others, if its a bad review,leave it.
    As long as its at least a 465 enermax with 33amps on the 12v, a square  4 pin connector, and an independant line for vid card ( I think latest ones may have 2 independant 12v lines) then you can't go wrong.
    cheers
    jocko

  • Need help asap. Can't open project in PP CS6 Debug Event, Need help asap. Can't open project in PP CS6 Debug Event

    I sat up all night, last night, editing a movie for a school project which is due Friday. I am extremely busy, and as i opened the file this morning to show the progress to a partner, Premiere, told me "Premiere pro has encountered an error" - "[c:\Mightykilt64\shared\adobe\mediacore\mediafoundation\api\inc\keyfra" - I click continue, and it says "The project could not be loaded, it may be damaged or contain outdated elements"
    I am so frustrated as i'm super busy, and on top of that i'm no computer genious, i really really hope someone can help, i need it asap! I use windows 8 btw..

    Gaps can be very small, and almost impossible to actually see.
    First, I zoom in on the Timeline, to the Frame-level, and step through the Timeline, or play it, looking for a flash of black.
    Next, I will hit Home, to get to the beginning of the Timeline, and then use the PageUP/PageDN keys to step through, Clip by Clip. I watch the CTI (Current Time Indicator w/ the red Edit Line) carefully. It should smoothly jump from Clip to Clip. With a tiny gap, say 1 Frame, the CTI will "hiccup," or "bounce." That is where the Gap is. How one fixes it will depend on where the gap is, and what one wants. Say that it's between two stills, I would then drag the Head of one, or the Tail of the other, to fill that gap. If it's between Video Clips, other choices might work best.
    PrE has a "Close Gaps" function, but if one has Audio that covers that gap, it will not work.
    One trick, that can get you to Transcoding is to add Transparent Video. Drag that to Video Track above all of your existing Video Clips, and extend it to "cover" the entire Timeline. The limitation of this method is that if there is a gap, there will be a black flash in the Video. If only 1 Frame, that might go undetected.
    Usually, when one gets the ":Failure to Return Frame," there is a % of the Timeline, also listed. One can do the math to locate that on the Timeline. As PrE does a two-pass Transcode, then 100% of the Transcode is through two passes. The full Duration of the Timeline is at 50%, as that is the end of the first pass. That can be a bit confusing, as a glitch at 75% would mean that half-way through the second pass, there was an issue detected. Usually, if there is a glitch, it will be discovered in the first pass.
    Good luck,
    Hunt

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