Samsung LN32A450 died?

My Samsung LN32A450 might have died. The red light is ON but when I try to turn on the TV using the remote or with the button on the TV, the red LED light just blinks once and then the red LED light stays ON, NO PICTURE NO SOUND. Just its dead. Also, tried with plugging off the power supply for a few hours and then retrying the same thing. No change in the situation. Any help to revive this dead TV ???? Please I am so frustrated. I just cannot take this kind of performance. Will best buy repair or replace it for me? I don't think it was a warranty and its a little or a year old.

Definitely sounds like an internal board problem but to make sure I would check the remote and make sure that none of the buttons are stuck down. Also try taking the battieres out of the remote and turn try turning the TV on using the buttons on the actual TV.

Similar Messages

Sony Bravia KDL-32L5000 or Samsung LN32B460?

I'm getting a 32" HDTV and these are my options
Sony Bravia KDL-32L5000
or
Samsung LN32B460
I will be using this tv for sd/hd channels,PS3 gaming,and blu-ray
Thanks in advance

I am very impressed with Samsung LN32B460 32-Inch 720p LCD HDTV. It is very easy to set up, you can use on screen plug and play setup. This model has better contrast ratio compare to last year’s A-series 450's, it also includes a QAM turner which allows you to receive HD signals from the major networks without the need for a special cable box
Samsung LN32A450 32-Inch 720p LCD HDTV
Samsung LN32B460 32-Inch 720p LCD HDTV
Samsung LN52A650 52-Inch 1080p 120 Hz LCD HDTV
Samsung LN37B550 37-Inch 1080p LCD HDTV

Can't back up Library file

Hi All,
Problem: I'm trying to create a backup of my Aperture Library file by simply doing a drag copy of it to an external drive. I get about 2/3 of the way done, when the copy process stops and I get an error that the process has stopped, due to a corrupt file. I get the same result copying to my internal back up, external back up and even doing a file copy on the same drive. I've now done the consistency check and rebuild the database, but there were no errors, so I'm assuming that I will get the same result as before. I'm trying the copy again any way, just to check. If this doesn't work, I see two next steps.
1. Open the contents of the Library file, try the drag copy again. With the contents exposed, I think I may be able to find the offending file and get rid of it. I know this is dangerous, to muck around in the Library like this, will this work?
2. Export my library, project by project, then rebuild (import) on to the new drive.
I guess my third option is to just trust that the Vault will work, but after my last experience, I wanted to look at all options.
Thanks.
Background: I have had a bad run with hard drives lately and just after recovering from having a Samsung 1TB die (lots of hours to restore everything), I had my new WD Caviar Black 2TB start to act funny, with corrupt file issues etc. Here's my config, Mac Pro Quad G5, Mac OS 10.5.8 and Aperture 2.1.4. My current back up plan has been simply drag copies of my data to both an internal and external drives on a regular basis. Simple, yes but it has served me well until this latest bout of hard drive problems.
My short term plan is to get two new 2TB drives to raid in my system, with my external 2TB as a clone of my drive. That should hold me over, till my sales pick up and I can spend my savings on a new Intel Mac Pro with new OS and Aperture 3.
My current problem is getting fully updated copied of everything backed up. I've had some corrupt file issues, which stops the copy process and makes me hunt for the offending file. All that's done, except my Aperture Library. Yes, I have multiple copies of my Vault file, but in the process of rebuilding the last time, I learned that the Vault doesn't keep thumbnails and previews. I got uneasy about this process, when it took forever to rebuild thumbs and previews. It didn't seem like it was working, when I realized I had a copy of my Aperture Library, so I copied it over and everything was cool.

A few thoughts. First when you do the drag of the library file is Aperture closed? Don't know for sure if it would make a difference but it's probably a good thing to do.
Second have you done a disk verify of the volume your Aperture library is on? I would suggest you run disk utility and do a disk verify on this volume just to rule out the possibility of a bad sector.
Finally I would really advise against going into the Aperture library and mucking about unless you have a definite know good backup of the library. You could select all your projects at once and then export them all in one operation as a new library directly onto the external drive. The you could just open this new library in Aperture, no need to import anything.

How do I mount a disk image that won't open?

I have an external drive Samsung 500 GB that was failing. I think my MacBook Air (10.6.8) caused it to fail because it wouldn't allow me to eject the disk even though I forced quit all programs. I eventually had to just unplug the drive and this caused the external disk to fail as it had not been ejected properly. Not my fault. It's the MBA's fault for not letting me eject the disk. Now the Samsung disk won't mount properly and I get a message that the drive is failing and I should save the data.
Anyhow, I used the free version of Data Rescue 3 to try and save the data on the failing Samsung 500 GB drive and move it onto a brand new Toshiba 1 TB drive.
I was unable to use the normal scanning function of Data Rescue 3 as the hardware of the drive was too damaged, and so I used the clone function on Data Rescue 3 to clone the data onto a non-failing hard drive, with the intent of restoring the data later.
I am not sure if I was successful in making the disk image. It hung up at the 99.6% point for about 12 hours when I decided to give up on it, and I shut down Data Rescue so I could eject the hard disks.
However, it would not let me do it. I tried force ejecting but still I could not eject the disks.
I ended up just unplugging the drives. I think the Samsung drive died almost completely then because it made a whole lot of clicking noises after that (it was only making a few clicking noises before that).
Anyhow, I plugged the Toshiba 1 TB drive into the computer again and used Data Rescue to scan the drive with the disk image on it to see if I could detect files on that drive.
It opened up the structure and I was able to see that most or all of the files were there (abbout 450GB of data) just from seeing the information about the files in the structure tree - the labels of the files (file type labels such as jpg, mp4 etc) and the size of the files, although I could not open up the files to check all of them.
I tested out the restore function of Data Rescue by downloading one file (<10MB) file. I am using the free version and can download one file for free to test things out.
It worked and I was able to save that file onto a second external drive (Western Digital 500 GB) I had plugged in. I had bought this drive just to do the data rescue.
So I think the files are salvageable and the disk image is OK.
However, when I tried to open the disk image in Disk Utility, by opening it as the source and choosing the WD drive as the destination I could not open it. I got an error message. I can't remember what the message was.
I tried just opening the disk image in Finder by just clicking on the disk image but it won't mount.
Is that because my hard drive doesn't have enough space? My Desktop on the MBA only has 12 GB free and the WD drive has only 500 GB on it even though the disk image is about 501 GB.
I don't know why the disk image is that size when the failing Samsung drive only had 450 GB of data on it.
Anyway, what should I do to mount the disk image?
I want to mount the disk image so that I can copy or move the files from it to another external drive so that I can save those files.
Is it because the WD is only 500 GB or does it mean there's a problem with the disk image I made?
Should I try Carbon Clone Copy? I use that to make backups of my MBA internal HDD though I have never used it for opening or making disk images.
I have never dealt with disk images before except for dmg files of applications downloaded from the internet.
I am trying to avoid using Data Rescue 3 as I have to pay for it and if there is a free option, such as Disk Utility, CCC or other, I want to try it to restore the data in the disk image.
Sadly, I think the Samsung drive is ruined beyong repair as it's making a lot of clicking sounds and doesn't mount properly in Disk Image and I get a message that it's beyond repair or something like that in Disk Utility.
So I am relying on the disk image I made on the Toshiba drive to restore my files.
(I think it was the last movie file that caused the problem because it was when I was trying to copy it onto the Samsung external drive, all the problems began - hanging up when copying it, not being able to eject the Samsung disk, causing hardware issues on Samsung disk and getting warning messages on Disk Utility.)
BTW, I learned how to eject a drive when it won't eject the normal way, I have to use command window and type in commands, but that's another post ....
Any advice?
I am thinking of going out and buying a second 1 TB external drive so that I have a disk with enough space to open the 501GB disk image on it, just in case that was the sole problem.
However, I am not sure that is the case, and I think there may be a problem with the disk image or I am not going the right way about opening it.
Thanks for any advice.

I think I've found the solution to this problem.
http://superuser.com/questions/19426/im-unable-to-mount-a-dmg-getting-a-no-mount able-filesystems-error
I am following the instructions here:
I ran into a similar situation. I did what simonair suggested and I received a message in Terminal that Volume mounted successfully. However It did not help me access the mounted Volume neither was I able to confirm the mounted Volume. Nor was I able to mount the image using Disk Drill or even scan through. Nothing succeeded.
Here is what I did to solve my problem. I see that in this post some suggested that we should convert name.dmg to writable file. I used the command from Terminal to convert but was not successful. INSTEAD alternatively, I used Disk Utility, attached the Volume (yes I got the same message again, ''no mountable system files'' however, Disk Utility nevertheless attached the image, which I was able to do before anyways. This time, I selected it and then clicked New image, and then selected image format read/write, not the compressed option. I created a new image. This time this image was writable however, it still would not mount using Simonair's solution. However, this time I was able to scan it with Disk Drill with exact file locations and folder hierarchy as I had. Recovering all from thereon was a breeze. Just remember: when you create new image of an attached volume and chose not compressed but read/write, you need to have a disk with exact amount of space that totals the total space allocated within that name.dmg file (not the amount of space the data takes). Mine was huge, and luckily I had an external disk with enough space to do that and it took about 5 hours for about 400GB of disk allocation. Good luck.
And so far it seems to be working. Even though the volume is grayed out on the left side of Disk Utility, I am still able to select it as the source for making a new disk image. I chose Read and Write and no compression.
The only thing I might be doing differently is that instead of choosing the disk image as the source, I chose the volume as the source. The volume is grayed out, but the disk image is not.
It seems to be working all right. Keep my fingers crossed.
If this doesn't work, I will use Data Recovery 3 as a last resort.

Iphone 5c: Screen cracked, disappointed in Apple

So long story short... Or as short as possible.
Im a big Apple fan, have multiple i-products and a MacBook. My daughter is following in my footsteps with her iPad and an iPhone 5C that she got for Christmas.
One of the reasons we've chosen Apple, is the impression that they give great customer service, and always go above and beyond. (Just look at all the stories online in different Apple forums with people cracking a screen on their iPad, and getting it replaced out of warranty etc.. It seems to be a fairly common occurrence, that people get a goodwill repair and/or replacement...)
Anyways, she came to visit me in Denmark from Canada, for a few weeks, and the other day another girl bumped into her in a store: Her iPhone 5c thats she's holding hits the floor, and bam! The screen has a huge crack, but its only the outer glass thats damaged, and the phone works normally despite the visual crack.
We go to the Apple store in Sweden the next day (there are none in Denmark), to hear what our options are, and the service technician who checks out the phone lets us know that the out of warranty screen replacement (fall damage) will cost us 240$, per Apple Stores policies.
Since the phone originally is from Canada however, and since the phone is under her moms contract, we tell him that we need to confer with her and see what we're going to do. The phone is still working perfectly, so waiting a couple of weeks and getting the screen replacement done in a Canadian Apple store would be significantly cheaper. The tech tells us, that this is fine, and we're welcome anytime to come back and get it done with them if we change our mind, since "we're here for you' or some schlock like that...
Two days later while at home, the phone seem to completely die on us: Screen goes black and it doesn't seem to respond in any way.
Now I've had both an HTC and a Samsung phone die on me from one minute to the next, where the whole motherboard/phone was replaced under warranty, so I know that it DOES happen that a component on the motherboard dies for some reason or another. And since the phone has been working fine for three days after the drop, its unlikely that this is related to the phone being dropped.
So back to the Apple store we go...
We get the same tech that helped us the other day, and after taking the phone out back, he comes back and tells us that they would need to replace the whole phone, and since the phone has been damaged already, we'd have to pay around $400 for the replacement. (Out of warranty replacement, despite the phone being less than 9 months old).
I point out, that this hardly seems reasonable, since despite the outer glass screen being cracked, Apple should still be responsible for the internal parts failing under warranty. (Heck, my former Samsung phone also had a crack on the screen, but that didn't stop them from replacing the motherboard...) And since he saw the phone work fine despite the cracked screen a few days earlier, he knows that it happened well after the crack appeared.
When we left three days previously, he also said that we're welcome back any time to get the screen replacement done, and didn't say anything about us voiding our warranty on the phone, by not having it fixed right then and there.
I ask him if he's positive that the whole phone needs to be replaced, instead of just a screen replacement, and what their diagnostic computer told them out back when they connected it. He said that it was completely dead, and gave an odd explanation about water damage, from water entering through the cracked screen. (Despite that they never opened the phone to check for water damage.)
Now while I'm back at home, I just found out that my Macbook&iTunes can talk to the phone just fine, and it shows up like before, despite the screen being dead. Which means that the Apple tech lied to me, and couldn't be bothered with hooking it up to a computer at all...
I got to say that I'm really disappointed in the service the Apple store showed us. No, I didn't expect to get a brand new phone thrown at us free of charge, but I did expect to get great service, or at least the same level of customer friendly service I've seen in the past when I still had my Samsung and HTC, instead of a tech who couldn't even be bothered to diagnose the second error to see whether just a screen replacement would fix it or not.
Any advice as to what to do next? Would we be better of with trying with a different Apple store, or an Apple store in Canada, or is this the new level of customer service in Apple Stores in general?
I could get the screen replaced elsewhere for around 100$, though I'm not 100% sure if it would fix the error or not. (It seems that it would, since iTunes recognises the phone just fine...) It would void the warranty, but right now my faith in that warranty isn't very high anyways.
I'd appreciate any advice, thanks!

If your iPod Touch, iPhone, or iPad is Broken
Apple does not fix iDevices. Instead, they exchange yours for a refurbished or new replacement depending upon the age of your device and refurbished inventories. On rare occasions when there are no longer refurbished units for your older model, they may replace it with the next newer model.
ATTN: Beginning July 2013 Apple Stores are now equipped to do screen repairs/replacements in-house on iPhone 5 and 5C. In some cases while you wait. According to Apple this is the beginning of equipping Apple Stores with the resources needed to do most repairs for iPhones, iPads, and iPod Touches that would not require major replacements. Later in the year the services may be extended as Apple Stores become equipped and staffed with the proper repair expertise. So, if you need a screen repaired or a broken screen replaced or have your stuck Home button fixed, call your local Apple Store to see if they are now doing these in-house.
You may take your device to an Apple retailer for help or you may call Customer Service and arrange to send your device to Apple:
Apple Store Customer Service at 1-800-676-2775 or visit online Help for more information.
To contact product and tech support: Contacting Apple for support and service - this includes international calling numbers.
You will find respective repair costs in the appropriate link:
iPod Service Support and Costs
iPhone Service Support and Costs
iPad Service Support and Costs
There are third-party firms that do repairs on iDevices, and there are places where you can order parts to DIY if you feel up to the task:
1. iResq or Google for others.
2. Buy and replace screen yourself: iFixit

HDMI vs DVI on same monitor

I just bought a mac mini(2010) and connected mini to samsung P2270HD(Full HD 1920 X 1080) via HDMI gives a very bad picture quality. Took the mini back to the store and they reproduced the problem on the same monitor. Then the guy took a dvi cable and via HDMI-DVI adaptor connected it to the same monitor but on DVI input. Picture quality was fantastic.
Now why did that happen? Same HDMI port but different input to Monitor

I have a Mac mini (new version) connected to a Samsung LN32A450 HDTV via:
Mac mini (mini-display-port) > mini-display-port VGA adapter > VGA cable > TV (VGA port)
And it looks fantastic. I recently got an HDMI cable so I could free up the mini-display-port adapter and connected the Mac mini to the TV via:
Mac mini (HDMI port) > HDMI cable > TV (HDMI port)
And it looks horrible. I tried both HDMI ports on the TV, adjusting various settings on both the TV and Mac mini (resolution, underscan, profiles, etc) and can't find any way to fix it. I've read of similar problems elsewhere and some think it's that the HDMI output on the mini is crappy but your post indicates the HDMI from the Mac mini is fine. Just to confirm, yours looks as good as being connected to a computer monitor when connected to your HDTV like this?:
Mac mini (HDMI port) > HDMI cable > HDMI-DVI adapter > TV (DVI port)

New MacBook containsa form of digital copy protection - TRUE?

I was told that Apple's new MacBook lines includes a form of digital copy protection that will prevent protected media, such as DRM-infused iTunes movies, from playing back on devices that aren't compliant with the new priority protection measures.
The Intel-developed technology is called High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP) and aims to prevent copying of digital audio and video content as it travels across a variety of display connectors, even if such copying is not in violation of fair use laws.
Among the connectors supported by the technology are the Mini DisplayPort found on Apple's latest MacBook, MacBook Pro, and MacBook Air, in addition to others such as Digital Visual Interface (DVI), High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI), Gigabit Video Interface (GVIF), and Unified Display Interface (UDI).
Apple has apparently acquired a license for the technology and is now using it across its DisplayPort-enabled MacBook lines to to prevent transmission of purchased iTunes content to devices that don't include support for HDCP.
Will this mean that if I purchase legitimate Video/Movies form Apple I will no longer be able to play them on Windows OS, PS3, XBox etc?, I hope not?

ChrisFu672819227364 wrote:
Right you are guys, thank you so much for responding!
I found out today that if HDCP was my problem I would still be able to mirror my desktop onto my TV, ie my samsung LN32A450, but I can not. The adaptor works on many other things as I mentioned above but not my TV.
I have been speaking with Samsung today and they have no information about the issue other then sending a technician to my house to have a look and if it's not the TV's fault then I will be charged for the service.
So summary;
Apple = no advice
Samsung = no advice
MDP-VGA company = apple = no advice
Therefore I must trial and error it.
I checked for updated firmware for the TV, placed the file onto a flash drive and inserted into my TV driver was up to date .: no results also no updates for the macbook.
I went to futureshop and tried running my macbook on a samsung 450 series (same as mine) and a 550 series (next step up) and same thing, no video on the TV.
I then moved to a toshiba and it worked instantly, as well when I checked with tech support on campus they brought me to the campus computer store down the hall and we hooked it up to the toshiba in there and it worked right a way.
macbook +MDP-VGA + PC computer monitor = works
macbook +MDP-VGA + projector = works
macbook +MDP-VGA + toshiba HDTV = works
macbook MDP-VGA LG HDTV= doesn't work
macbook +MDP-VGA + samsung HDTV = doesn't work
I have been trying really hard to figure this out with no resolve and it's been terrible, If you guys can figure out this riddle you are doing better then me, Samsung, and Apple combined.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
oh and sorry for the comment about waiting for 10.6, I meant it would be brutal to have to wait for the next OS or replace my macbook again just to get this to work.
It might just be your Samsung TV being compliant to HDCP but not DPCP (Display Port Content Protection) which your Toshiba TV might be.
deltatux

Reinstalling system on a new hdd

It seems like a common problem that the original Samsung HDDs die an early death. I started getting SMART 301 warnings several months ago, but my HP dv6 kept functionning normally until this week. Now it won't boot up, so it's time for a new HDD. I thought I was fully prepared, as I had been saving all my work on an external drive, had a nice new fast HDD to install and had my recovery discs at the ready. After running the recovery discs, I'm stuck. The new HDD won't boot, and I can't proceed with anything the HP Recovery console proposes me on its menu. Windows recovery is also stuck as there is no previous image saved on this new disc.
Looking at the new HDD, I see that the HP Recovery discs have only formatted 60GB, sort of a mini recovery partition and nothing else. When I try to restore the factory image, the HP Recovery Console refuses with the message this disk is smaller than the original.
Can anyone advise me how either to get around this with the recovery discs, or how I might just do a clean install of Windows 7 without having to buy a new installation disc outright? HP doesn't furnish a Windows disc with this computer.
Computer: Product no; WH688EA#ABF
Serial no. {Removed for privacy}
Original HDD: Samsung HM641JI 640GB
New HDD I would like to install: Seagate Momentus XT 500 GB
Thanks in advance for any help!
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
Recovery Discs often have problems reinstalling the OS if the new HDD is smaller than the one installed when they were originally created.
Before trying the following, make sure you can still read the Activation key on your Windows COA label ( 5 blocks of 5 alpha/numeric sets ).
Assuming that this is just a problem with the Recovery process, there is a straight forward work around if you have ( or can borrow ) a retail Windows 7 installation disc that is exactly the same version as your OEM installation - ie if your notebook came with Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit this is the exact retail version you would need.
If you don't have access to a retail disc, you can create an installation disc yourself using another PC - just download the correct Disc Image from the link below and use an application such as ImgBurn to burn the ISO correctly to a blank DVD - a guide on using ImgBurn to write an ISO to a disc is Here. These Images are clean and from a well-respected source, however there are only limited versions available.
Windows-7 sp1-iso-official-32-bit-and-64-bit
Use the disc to perform the installation, enter the Windows activation key found on the COA Label when requested and when the installation has completed, use the 'Phone Method' detailed in the link below to activate the OS - this method supported by Microsoft and is popular with people who just want a clean installation of Windows 7 without the additional software load normally bundled with OEM installations.
http://www.kodyaz.com/articles/how-to-activate-windows-7-by-phone.aspx
Any additional drivers you may need can be found starting Here.
Regards,
DP-K
****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

Which is better to get now, the iPhone 4 or 4S?

My faithful Samsung has died on me (not a smartphone) and I was thinking of getting an iPhone, but not the 5 because that's out of my price range. I was thinking between the 4 and the 4s, the 4S is obviously more expensive than the 4 so I was wondering if it was worth getting the 4s, if it's not much different from the 4?
Thanks

The iPhone 4 will do everything you need it to and would be a good choice, especially if money is a big factor. I have an iPhone 4 and do not plan on upgrading to a new iPhone for awhile because mine works so well.
Here are the differences:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/compare-iphones/

Samsung Galaxy S3 Battery Dying Extremely Fast - After 4.3 Update

I have been struggling with this same issue, have killed all unnecessary apps, cleared the cache, performed a factory reset and even tried a new battery, and still have an issue where after a full charge, my battery would drain to around 90% in less than 30 minutes. Sometimes, even faster.
It seems that nobody has been able to nail down a solution, so I attempted to contact Samsung to see what their suggestions might be.
The conversation I had with an agent basically sums up like this:
There's nothing they can do because they do not have reports of this issue and request that I send in my phone to be physically examined.
So, Samsung basically told me to send it in and see if they can do anything about it. I don't have the insurance set up on my account, so I can't hold that in place, and I have no other way to get in touch with people and have a small child, so I can't exactly just mail off my phone for them to examine it. So, basically, Samsung is avoiding the issue and we still have no true resolution.
If anyone has any other ideas, fixes, things I can attempt without having to send my phone in for someone to "examine", it would be greatly appreciated.
Please note that I have deleted/uninstalled/cleared cache on many apps, finally completely reset the phone to factory settings and then tried a brand new battery, and the drainage is still extremely significant.

Simple fix. No. Seriously. I had this on mine and the fix worked like a charm.
I appologize in advance that I do not have screenshots, so I'll do my best to step by step describe this as best as possible. The culprit is your e-mail app (not g-mail --- e-mail). I don't know the specifics, but it has issues with syncing between Yahoo accounts and Google accounts and it supposedly causes the e-mail client on your phone to run CONSTANTLY to try to sync. This will drain your battery like crazy.
No. This process never shows up in the battery useage thingy that they had you check. It is a background app process and won't show there. Sorry VZ people, but your normal tech magic has no power here. This is a known bug with Android 4.3.
You have to disable the sync, but this has the unintended effect of rendering your e-mail app useless since it will no longer get your e-mails for you, even if you manually sync it. Just download the Yahoo Mail app and you'll be fine. (or whatever other e-mail service you're using).
From your In-Box, touch the menu button to the left of the home button. The menu comes up with "Sort By", "View As", "Font Size", and "Settings" -- Touch "Settings"
Under the settings menu, you should see "+Add Account" at the top and "Account Settings" with your e-mail address directly under that. Go ahead and click that. It should bring up another menu with your e-mail address and a green check mark beside it. Touch your e-mail address to open its settings.
The top option is "Sync Settings" - that is the one that we want... click it. You should see "Sync E-mail" at the top and below it, it will say "Master sync has been turned off" and there should be a green check in the box to the right. Touch the green checkmark to fix the issue. The green check should be on and it should now say "Sync turned off."
You've now fixed the problem and disabled your e-mail app from sucking your battery. Not sure why it sets up like that, but with the Master Sync turned off, your e-mail app will try endlessly to sync with the other services via master sync and it will never be able to.... so it keeps running and running and running. Sucks.
Now that you're fixed, just get a service specific e-mail app and be happy with a phone that doesn't die in an hour!!!!
Keep in mind that you will still need to monitor things like Wifi being on when you're not connected to Wifi, GPS, and screen brightness. Those will drain it quickly too.
I used to be able to unplug my phone @ 100% and litterally watch it drop without even unlocking it. Now, I can use it casually/semi-hard all day at work and still go home with 40-50% of a battery.
Best of luck!
Adam

Glas gebrochen beim I-Pad Apple übernimmt die Kosten nicht . Hätte auch Samsung Kaufen können

glas gebrochen Apple übernimmt die Kosten nicht für die reperatur. Hätte auch Samsung oder sowas kaufen können.
Habe ich nicht gedacht das die firma so schei... ist.
Apple Care für alle geräte gekauft alle Schutzhüllen gekauft und jetzt das. Mein nächstes Gerät wird Samsung, wenn Kaputt dann Kaputt.
Nichts mehr von Apple
Gruß Martin

Ich habe das gleiche problem....ich hoffe auf eine schnelle loesung...

Samsung 42-inch Plasma TV just died

My 42-inch HP-T4254 started turning on and off by itself last Saturday and as of Sunday wouldn't stay on at all. I had a certified Samsung repairman check out the TV early this week and for $99, he told me that it would cost $650 to replace the power supply and motherboard. I've had this TV for just over 2 years so it was out of warranty. This is coming at a pretty bad time to have to buy a new TV, which seems like the only option when the repair cost is 75% of the replacement cost. Obviously, I'm not very pleased with both Best Buy and Samsung at the moment. Is there anything that Best Buy can do to help me?

it really sad that everyone of you has the same solution of paying more money for extended protection. When you spend thousands of dollars on a tv, why should you have to pay more money for protection on a tv. The tv should last for longer then 2 years. IT should last at least bare min 8 years. I've have a tube tv that i bought 10 years ago and it works fine to this day. I have video game equipment for example a sega nomad and a ps2 that still work just as good as new "old technology". I have an xbox360 that ive had to have replaced 4 times in 2 years because i would get a red ring of death "hardware failure". their is no excuse for that. the xbox 360 has a terriable defect rate/product failure rate. The bottom line is the manufacture needs to build quality products that will last and they are not doing that. They are not building the same quality products they used to. They rush products to market without making sure they are going to be durable, dependable, live up to Tonsumer expectations, ect.... They are getting away with this! They are conditioning you guys to think hey its the way its supposed to be. They are building crappy products and selling them to you and charging even more for a product to protect plan. Dont get me wrong their are going to be defects in manufacturing but as many complaints as ive seen and studied in school and seen in the business world is unacceptable. Now you guys just think its ok thats the way its supposed to be... you should be every bit as mad as the guy that posted this form with his tv going out. its not his fault he didnt want to spend the extra money on the protection on the tv. its the manufactures fault for rushing a product to market without making sure it works, its the manufactures fault for not standing behind their product, its the manufactures fault for not matching up the four marketing P's, its the manufactures fault for not utilizing the many manufacturing techniques that are avaible today that greatly reduce defects, and most of all its YOUR FAULT for condoning the manufactures behavor and continuing to buy from them and saying its ok i just need to buy the extra protection. It's not ok its not the way its supposed to be! Think if you bought a brand new car and it broke down multiple times, this is the same thing! To the guy thats tv broke sorry to hear about that man. If i were you i would call samsungs exective constumer services department (or whatever it is, they have customer service and then they have a level above that you want to complain to them) and complain it will get you some where. Remind them that the cost of fixing your tv is worth a lot less them complaining to 100's of people about how bad their products are and losing those possible customers. It will work it has worked for me when i got screwed over a couple times with the service industry and HH gregg. Just get by the customer service people on the phone and go above them and you will get somewhere. good luck to you. Do your homework, educate yourself, and dont put up with the bs.
My background: marketing research consultant, opperations management consultant, manfacturing management student, high velocity manufacturing third gen and supply chain execution strategies certified! six sigma ect!

My Samsung died thinking of getting the X240

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-NP700Z5B-S01UB-i7-2675QM-2-2GHz-Silver/dp/B007IJPVP0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF...
I am thinking of getting the x240 and have a few questions
1. Does it have a backlit keyboard..
2. Can I put my PC14900 DDR3 (vs X240's DDR3L) 204 pin ram into it into it?
3. I have a dual band Intel 7260 AC card, can I put that into it?
4. I have three samsung power adapters http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KPKTVW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Can these safely work with the X240 ( I am confused at how it's pin looks, the X240 from what I understand has a non-round or even a USB adapter port/pin)?

If I buy the MacBook now, I may not get the new Leopard OS when it comes out.
While it won't be free, you can just buy a retail copy of Mac OS X 10.5 (Leopard) when it is released… just like the rest of us. It will work just fine.
I'm not sure about the degree of hard disk upgrade (can it use the normal laptop hard disks) and RAM (does it use the normal laptop RAMs).
When it comes to RAM the general thinking is to buy as much as you can afford. Although for most people an upgrade to 1GB is sufficient. An upgrade to 1 or 2GB is highly recommended.
As for your hard drive, it really depends on what you're thinking of doing with your MacBook and what sort, and how much, media files you're wanting to store. Without knowing that it's a little difficult to recommend anything.
Is the black version really worth to buy compared to the white one which has arm rest discolouration issues.
Given new white MacBooks do not have these problems, and if they do they're a free repair, the black MacBook is as good value when you look at it from a purely technical stand point. Even when you take into account the larger (extra 20GB) hard drive you're basically paying more for a colour which would more than pay for a 1GB RAM upgrade.

Mac Mini Marantz SR6007: Samsung TV keeps blinking

Hello,
I have looked all over for this and I'm on my last rope. I have a mini bought in 2011 which worked flawlessly with my Marantz SR7002 and my Samsung LED TV. The marantz just died and I've just replaced it by an SR6007.
On the mini (and on the mini only, all other machines - Xbox One, Tivo… - work great) I have a phenomenon that others have called "redetection": Samsung TV doing black screen for a second, and coming back showing 1080p@60hz, in a loop (https://forums.plex.tv/index.php/topic/79698-rasplex-cec-and-redetection-problem s/). This link seems to concern a Rasbery Pi with insufficient power, but surely this is not the case for a mini?
I have tried various HDMI cables, I have tried using a powered HDMI hub… No joy.
I have tried to update to Yosemite, resetting PRAM and SMC… No joy.
I have tried my wife's MBP Retina 15" and it works just fine.
I have ordered an HDMI detective but I can't understand why this would be needed since it worked fine without it on the older Marantz?
The "blinking" doesn't appear when the Mac boots (probably because the Graphic card is not immediately active?) but I assume doing a clean install wouldn't help? I'm not looling into replacing the mini (although it could be done)… Any suggestion would be really welcome!
Thanks.
JCV

Try using an app like to get the stranince resolution:
SwitchResX – The Most Versatile Tool For Controlling Screen Resolutions On Your Mac
Display Menu from Mac App Store
The monitor specs
Native resolution1440 x 900
Resolution720p
Supported DTV resolutions576i
Supported computer resolutions640 x 480 (VGA)
PC InterfaceVGA (HD-15)
Video InterfaceComponent, composite, HDMI, S-Video, SCART
From:
http://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-le19r86wd-19-lcd-tv/specs/

My 4S died and I was given a new one. Now I can't get it to sync with my old info. I think I put the wrong email address for my apple ID, how can I change it?

My 4S died this week and I was told it could not be repaired, so I was issued a new one. During set up I could not remember my password, so set up a new one. I think I used the wrong email address, not sure. At any rate, now my phone and pad don't sync. How can I get this corrected? Thanks!

It looks like your printer isn't on the list of air print enabled printers. It'll still work, you just need to do some tweaking.
You can see if samsung has any apps to enable printing.
or
You can look into a third party app like Print n Share or Print Central.
Then you can print from your iPad.

Samsung LN32A450 died?

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