Solution to SIII That Won't Switch to 3G?

I am disappointed: I switched to Verizon because I couldn't get reception in my basement office, while a coworker with Verizon could. My SIII will switch to 3G when no 4G service is available, but it stays with 4G even when poor reception makes data speeds incredibly slow. IF it switches to 3G, reception is better and speeds are faster.
Is there a way to force the phone onto 3G when I am in my office? If not, poor 4G reception makes this the slowest experience on the "fastest network".

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I have a Verizon iphone 5 that won't switch from WiFi to LTE, I'm running IOS 6.1.3

It will only recognize the LTE network after I power down and restart the phone. Anybody have a fix for this?
Thanks
Dave

I am having the exact same issue. Say I restart my phone fresh with Data on. It will connect that one time. The next time I turn it off to use WiFi and turn it back on, LTE will come up but Im unable to use it. It acts as if there is no connection there. The only way to use my data again is to restart my phone, which is a huge problem when I need Data right then and there. It seems only when I turn on Wifi does my LTE not work anymore. I am running iOS 6.1.3. Maybe it is because Im using a backup from my old( really old ) jailbroken iPod Touch 4th gen. Im going to try to restore it to 6.1.4 today without using a backup. Ill see how it goes. I would like to keep all my photos and every so I have no idea how to do this. Any help with either issue is appreciated, thanks.

I have an iMac that won't boot up. I've read all posts on this subject to no avail. When power is switched on, it chimes, Apple logo appears, spinning wheel, then loading bar starts to fill. It gets to about 25% then switches off! Help please!

iMac that won't boot up! When power is switched on it chimes, Apple logo appears, then loading bar, then spinning wheel. Bar seems to load up and gets to around 25%, then reverts to the start again, gets to about 20% on the bar and then switches itself off leaving a black screen. Tried all the remedies on internet with no avail so would welcome some advice other than binning what is a relatively new computer. Earliest appointment Apple could offer was Thursday 17th, really useful for a business user _ not impressed,

You've probably tried this, but will it Safe Boot? Restart holding down the Shift key until you see the grey progress bar. You'll need to input your admin password during bootup. If it will boot you can then try to eject the disk using the various suggestions here that you haven't tried already:
http://osxdaily.com/2009/08/28/eject-a-stuck-disk-from-your-mac-dvd-super-drive/
Or this (not tried this myself, but if things are desperate): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7NYW9Dr448

My ipod touch is showing a usb pointing to the itunes logo on the screen and nothing else. It won't switch on beyond that. Please help!

my ipod touch is showing a usb pointing to the itunes logo on the screen and nothing else. It won't switch on beyond that. Please help!

Sounds like your iPod is in restore mode. Connect it to iTunes. iTunes will pop a little message up saying that your iPod is in restore mode and asking you if you want to restore it, click yes. Your iPod will restore to factory settings and you will be given the chance to restore from a backup. You can do this or set it up as a new iPod.
Here is Apple's page on restoring your iPod.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414
Hope that helps.

My safari won't switch off - what can i do?

i opened a page which should have allowed me to download a mock TOCFL exam (that's the standardized chinese exam in taiwan), but instead i just got a page of gibberish and since then skype won't let me close it, also while closing tabs there's no longer an x to click, instead i have to right click and then close it that way. anyone know what's going on here? also since safari won't switch off, i have no way of trying to deinstall and then reinstall it...any suggestions?

Select  ▹ Force Quit... from the menu bar, then select Safari and press return. Do the same with Skype.
Run Software Update and install all available updates.
Reinstalling system components is rarely the solution to any problem, and certainly not to this one.

Ultrabay battery won't switch to main battery and results in sudden shutdown.

Hi,
I just changed my windows 7 32 bit to 64 but version. The power manager version is 3.66 and driver version 1.64, bios version is LENOVO 7UET93WW (3.23 , 12/15/2011). The ultrabay battery drains to zero and won't switch to main battery, which leads to a sudden shutdown without any warning. In windows 7 32 bit version, I don't have such problem. It's annoying. My computer is T400 7147 CTO.
Thanks!
chicagot400

Hi I have the exact same problem. I have a T400 2764 CTO. Changes I have recently made (past 2 weeks): I upgraded to Windows 7 64, added a PC Card media reader, added an express card USB 3.0, a Samsung 256 GB SSD and the Ultra Bay Battery. Everything was working great... both batteries recognized, ran Lenovo Update... Have everything...
Well the battery meter recognizes both batteries (a 4-cell and a 3-cell), combines their life, but it drains the 3-cell first to ZERO... and isn't bright enough to figure out how to switch before abruptly dropping power to the system.
Hopefully like the ATI switchable graphics that had bugs for ages this battery issue eventually gets fixed. Let me know if you figure out any solution. AND LENOVO, if you are reading, try and set it up so that the 2 battery usage maximizes the life of both batteries with whatever controller you put together.
Thanks.
- Tom

Psc won't switch from copy to print

I so need help! My hp psc 750 won't switch from copy mode to print mode. I have a job I need to print and when I go to print it, it says printer error and puts my print job in queue. Nothing is waiting to copy, it just won't go to print mode. Help please!!!

I would start by checking the USB cable is connected between the printer and computer. Next make sure the printer driver is installed and that the printer is not set to "use printer offline".
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Playbook won't switch on, charge or reboot!

Hi All
Can anybody help with my playbook. It won't switch on via the power button, just the initial red light then nothing.
It doesn't respond to either it's own charger or my curves charger.
I have tried to reboot by holding the power and + and - buttons down simultaneously but I get the red light then a few flashing yellow lights then nothing, back to dead.
Please help.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Connect it to your PC with the BlackBerry Desktop Software running and then repeat the three button reset., that should force the Desktop Software to load/install to the device.
1. If any post helps you please click the below the post(s) that helped you.
2. Please resolve your thread by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!
3. Install free BlackBerry Protect today for backups of contacts and data.
4. Guide to Unlocking your BlackBerry & Unlock Codes
Join our BBM Channels (Beta)
BlackBerry Support Forums Channel
PIN: C0001B7B4 Display/Scan Bar Code
Knowledge Base Updates
PIN: C0005A9AA Display/Scan Bar Code

Blackberry storm 9250 won't switch on .

please can someone help me my blackberry storm 9250 won' switch on , the only way is to take battery out for a few minutes . have tried a new battery , and when i use the power off button to switch it off completely , its dead again won't switch on , therefore i have to repeatthe process removing the battery ,then putting it back in the phone and phonecomes on itself without me having to touch the on button on the top of the phone ,so i have to keep phone on all the time ,none ofthe two batteries have not lost their charge either . i am not happy because i paid over £400 for this when new , and its been difficult to work even then , as i thought it was just me as ive got arthritis in both hands please can someone advise me asap thanks robbie

Hi
BB sometimes switches itself off and restarts itself for safety measures or due to some of the applications etc...this is common for BB mobile that when u reinsert the battery, it will automatically start, u dnt have to puch the on/off switch for that...u dnt have to take out the batter for few minutes for the restart, as soon as u put the battery, the BB will start....
with regards
simply abhik...
Please click "Accept as Solution" if your issue has been solved and to give thanks/appreciation, click thumbs up...
For BB OS update: http://us.blackberry.com/software/smartphones/update.html
BB Simulators: http://us.blackberry.com/sites/developers/resources/simulators.html

I have two blackberry's that won't load

I have two blackberry 8520 that won't load the operating system one loads a third then switches off and on,the other loads and writes reload software...I've tried force detection it does not show me any ports I downloaded the software but still nothing happens...
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Try this
download device software from carrier's website
intall it on the computer.
after that plug your device in without the battery, once in
go to Start / Computer / C drive / Program files (x86) / Common files / research in motion / app loader / Loader.
double click LOADER to run.
once run wait for it to detec your device.
once done you will be routed to choose your language.
select language then NEXT
after that you will see " finish" or " close"
click it and the process will start
during the process when you receive an error that says " cannot detect device "
put the battery back in and keep on Retrying until the process proceed.
at the end you may receive a " fatal error occurs " but that is ok.
you device should be rebooting up by now.
Let me know if this help.

I've been texting my friend with iMessage with wifi on and all of a sudden it changed to text message and won't let me send messages. My wifi is still on and working but it won't switch back to iMessage. Please help

I've been texting my friend with iMessage with wifi on and all of a sudden it changed to text message and won't let me send messages. My wifi is still on and working but it won't switch back to iMessage. Please help

What I recommend you try doing first is to turn iMessage off then back on. If that doesn't work, make sure that your Apple ID and password are correct. If everything seems correct and you still can't send out messages using iMessage instead of text message, I think you should either try calling AppleCare at 1-800-MY-IPHONE (1-800-694-7466) and/or scheduling an appointment at the Genius Bar at an Apple Store (that is, if there's one close to you).
Hope this helps!

Safari Hijacked and Certificates that won't go away. Malware?

Four times over the last 4 or 5 months "something" hijacks Safari and freezes it.
The first 3 times I was in Google.   I clicked on a site, it would freeze Safari and I would get a message from an unrelated website telling me to call a number for Apple Support which was not Apple.
Each of those 3 times I called Apple Care and they went to Finder>Library> Cache and removed files from Launch Agents, Launch Daemons and Plug-ins. That removed the problem.
This time I was in Words With Friends when a Certificate popped up for the website Secure.RubiconProject.Com.   I spent over an hour on the phone with Apple looking for bad files. None were found but we couldn't get rid of the Certificate and Safari was frozen.   Also, WWF would keep crashing Safari.
The Apple guy had me install a 2 week free trial of Web Root antivirus. It found some problems which it took care of. When I went back to Words with Friends the Certificate popped up again but this time I clicked on it since Web Root would tell me if there was an issue.
The screen was blank but since then: 1. No certificate and 2. an error message that was always across the top of WWF about having to reload the page was gone. When I used Firefox to work on this problem with Apple, I would keep getting a message that said Firefox would not direct this to another page and I had to click an OK button. That is gone.
I don't know why I keep getting this issue since each time it is different.   I told Apple guy that I had read that Apple doesn't need antivirus and in fact they can cause more problems than they help.   He said Apple has a Firewall but nothing for malware which is become more and more prevalent. There are threads here about not needed anti viruses but I'm at a loss.
I have Apple Care for 2 more years but I don't want to keep calling them if I can find a solution to this. I'm not tech savvy.   I would like an antivirus that is a one time fee.
Advice please?

You may have inadvertently installed adware. Eradicating it is simple and you don't have to download or install anything to fix it.
Although adware relies upon deception, it does not get installed without your consent, and "anti-virus" utilities cannot prevent users from willfully installing garbage. Only you can do that, by recognizing adware's appearance, which is constantly changing as adware authors constantly attempt to thwart automatic means of detection.
For an explanation or how this may have occurred, how to avoid it in the future, and for Apple's recommended solution read How to install adware.
Webroot is garbage that won't help prevent adware. Uninstall it. Be sure to follow its uninstallation instructions.
I have Apple Care for 2 more years but I don't want to keep calling them if I can find a solution to this.
You should call them, as often as necessary. AppleCare is a service you paid for. Let them work for you. I suggest you express your displeasure regarding their inept recommendation to install Webroot. OS X's software firewall is also completely irrelevant to your concern.

Repairing laptops that won't boot and show the blinking caps

Here's a little tutorial for all of you who have this annoying issue. It mostly applies to the 1 blink code (other codes have much simpler and straightforward solutions).
Ok, so the code says that it's caused because of a not functional CPU. That is most likely not the case. Most people who had the 1 blink code actually had a problem with the integrated video graphics card or northbridge of their laptops, not the CPU (in fact, CPU failures are quite uncommon). The problem is that these chips overheat quite often, they don't have good cooling and dissipation systems (most of the time, it is shared with the CPU which is absolutely insane), and the solder connections are of very bad quality. So with overheating, solder points start fracturing or cracking and they stop making contact, which causes all these issues, including the infamous RRoD and YLoD issues in the Xbox and Playstation consoles with their soldered video chips.
So there are two main ways of dealing with this:
1 - Reflow
This is a short-term but easy solution that simply consists of reheating the damaged component to the point of getting rid of said fractures. It has a high success rate, as many people will tell you. It worked for me always, but again, after some time the issue may come back. Still, this is a very simple solution that doesn't require too much skill or equipment and is satisfying enough for most users. This is what I'm going to show how to do in this tutorial.
2 - Reball
Reflowing doesn't always work, and when it does, it doesn't last long. Instead, reballing is a permanent solution which consists of removing the chip in its entirety and replacing all the solder contacts. Reballing requires specific equipment (a reball station), reballing stencils and leaded solder balls. It is a long procedure, which requires some skill and it only should be performed by experienced people. When a reflow won't work, you are better off sending your laptop to a reballing technician, or buying a new one (which would be a waste, in my opinion).
Ok, so how can we do a reflow? There are many ways to do this:
1) Reheating your laptop: This is a simple as it sounds. Some people call it the "blanket" method, because you can just simply turn on your laptop, wrap it with a blanket or sweater and let it run until it shuts down because of overheating. I absolutely don't recommend doing this, as there are probably many working components (particularly the hard drive holding your data) that won't benefit from the overheating. I recommend disassembling the laptop and taking out all the good parts, like the hard drive, RAM sticks and any extra PCI-e cards installed. After that you can just simply unplug the cooling fan connector from the board then turn the laptop on. This will cause it to overheat faster, so you won't have to waste hours waiting for it to get hot (using the blanket method, it can take a lot of time). Most laptops will shutdown themselves after reaching a certain threshold temperature, if yours doesn't, well, just keep an eye on it so you can turn it off before it catches fire. After it turns off, let it rest and cool for at least an hour, then connect the cooling fan again, turn the laptop on and see if it boots. If it doesn't, well, you can keep trying this until it does (not recommended after 3 tries or so), or try the next methods.
2) The oven method: This a bit tricky, but it may be more successful in some cases. First, strip down your computer until you get to the bare board holding the video chip. Remove the CPU, heatsink & fan, RAM, BIOS battery, wires, speakers, stickers, plastic sticky guards, foam spacers, absolutely everything that can be removed from the motherboard. Then preheat your household oven to approximately 200°C or 385°F. If your oven does not have a digital temperature display, perhaps use an internal oven thermometer to make sure the oven is in the right temperature range. Roll up some kitchen foil into balls, between half an inch and an inch wide, and place them on a baking tray. Place your motherboard, with CPU socket and GPU facing upwards, on top of the foil balls. It is a good idea to wrap additional foil around the more sensitive parts of the motherboard, like areas where there are capacitors and the CPU socket.
Try to wrap the rest of the motherboard in foil to protect it, leaving just the GPU exposed on both the top and bottom of the motherboard. Then place the baking tray with the laptop motherboard on it into the preheated oven.
Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated at this stage, turn on the extractor fan to full power and/or open an outside door and windows. This will help to take away any fumes. Ideally, you should leave the kitchen while any fumes are still present. A couple of times during the procedure, have a quick look through the oven door (without opening it) making sure there are no smoke or flames visible. This is unlikely to occur, but can happen if stickers were left on the motherboard. After 8 minutes, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Do not remove the motherboard from the oven at this stage, it could be very hot and it is a better idea to allow it to cool down gradually. Take care not to inhale any fumes that might be present. After 20 minutes to half an hour, remove the cool motherboard from the oven and begin rebuilding your laptop. If all has gone well, it will boot up and the problem will be fixed. If the problem remains, you could try the procedure again, leaving it in the oven for a couple of minutes longer.
After performing a reflow in an oven, I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly, then turn it on and allow any fumes that may have built up to be completely removed. This is especially important before cooking food in the oven again.
3) The heat gun method: Probably the best way to do a reflow, it is less destructive than the previous method (as you can focus on a single place, rather than overheating the entire board), but it may be worse than the first. The first step is to test out how well your heat gun will melt the solder. Place a chunk of solder on a coin, hold the heat gun one inch above it and record how long it takes the solder to flow. Once you have the timing right, mask off the motherboard (already removed from the case) so that just the chip in question is accessible. Reflow with the same spacing and timing as you did during the coin test.
Did it work?
If your laptop works now, then you can do a couple of extra things to avoid this problem in the future:
Avoid overheating by underclocking the CPU: You can run your laptop's CPU at a lower clock speed (it will run slower, BUT not as much as you think. Undercloking by a 50% doesn't mean your laptop will perform 50% slower). It not only protects your laptop from damaging over time, it has the added benefits of making it run *much* cooler and quieter and also having longer battery life, which is awesome as well. To do this, simply (in Windows 7 and up) click the battery icon in your notification area, select More power options, then change the selected plan (like Balanced) settings (click on Change plan settings), select Change advanced power settings, scroll down and, under Processor power management, Maximum processor state, type on both 'On Battery' and 'Plugged in' a value less than 50%. Change Minimum processor state to 1% and then System cooling policy to Active.
Avoid playing heavy games and running intensive applications: Such programs very often cause the underpowered integrated graphics card and CPU to overheat, which causes all these issues. Use a desktop machine with dedicated graphics for such programs if you want your laptop to last.
Again, always take out the hard drive before any of these procedures if you don't wanna lose any data, and if you can, any other components that can get damaged in the way. Note that a reflow, particularly the oven or heat gun methods are usually last-ditch resorts because they can permanently damage your computer, in particular if performed incorrectly. DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I can't be held responsible for any accidents or unwanted results that may occur after following this tutorial. If you have doubts, then you're generally better off sending your laptop to professional technicians than trying to repair these kind of issues by yourself. Unless a repair costs more than replacing your laptop, that is.
And before starting any of these procedures, try to research your issue on the Internet as much as you can. Search for your particular model, search in this exact same forum and any other as you'll be able to read about people experiencing this problem. You can search reflow on your favorite search engine and you'll find detailed tutorials and many videos which will show the procedure and help you do a better repair. Once you're very comfortable and knowledgeable with the subject, you can go ahead with the repair.

This is actually good stuff and well written but I hesitate to advise people to use either the "oven trick" or really even the heat gun method as both are notriously short-lived even if they appear effective. Your far better bet is to send the board in to one of the vendors on the internet who are set up to do a proper reball. Even those fixes are good for maybe 12-18 mos. But again, you get a high grade for spelling it out.

My iMac20 powers off by itself and won't switch back on

I'm sorry this is a bit of a saga but I'm at the end of my tether with so will be really grateful if anyone has any experience of this issue and can give me some help?
The problem started in May when, after an hour or so of use, my iMac 20 suddenly started to turn itself off and wouldn't turn back on again until the following day. This happened around half a dozen times so I took the machine to the local Apple store and was told that it was probably the thermal trip and if I removed the power cord and left it disconnected for a while, it would power up again more quickly. That evening when it cut out, I followed the advice I was given and removed the power cord from the back of the machine but it made no difference and the machine would not restart until the following morning. Back to the Apple store I went and this time they took the machine in to the workshop; a day or two later I was told that they had cleaned out the fans and tweaked some software and had run it successfully on the bench for several hours with no problem. After paying £49, I collected the machine, took it home, ran it for an hour or so and off it went again and as before, refused to turn on. Back again to the Apple store; "Had I reloaded the operating system?" Well no, because I hadn't been told that I needed to. And anyway why would I... surely the thermal cut-out was a hardware issue? The response was that the problem was definitely software-based and nothing to do with overheating or a faulty power supply unit (which was/is my favourite candidate for villain of the piece). So off home I went, backed up my stuff and ran Disc One successfully and started running Disc Two. After about 20 minutes into Disc Two the machine did its usual trick and powered off, and I went looking for a bottle of wine.
Back to the Apple store. The guy controlling the 'guest list' for the Genius Bar said that if I wanted to return the machine to the workshop that day it would be considered a new incident and there would be a further charge for any repair work. However, if I made a fresh appointment (for a couple of days later) then the work would be done as part of the previous 'repair'. Somebody at Apple really needs to look at the way the stores deal with dissatisfied customers.
So, Saturday the 11th of July arrives and I head back to the Genius Bar for my free appointment. I explained to a very helpful guy that this is my fifth visit and I would like to get to the bottom of the problem. He referred to the tech person who dealt with the original workshop repair and she came out to explain that the issue is caused by 'something' lurking in my Library folder and that if I wipe my hard drive and re-install the OS from scratch but without the Library folder, the problem should be solved.
I spent Sunday wiping the hard drive, running the OS discs and then reinstating my iTunes, photos etc and waiting for the machine to turn itself off - but it didn't! I left my external hard drive returning all my files and documents overnight and when I woke up on Monday, everything was still up and running... bliss!
Then, this afternoon, after downing loading a music file in flac format, I found that it wouldn't go into iTunes without the help of Fluke software. I downloaded the Fluke stuff and then as I dragged the flac file into iTunes - boof! The machine went off and won't switch back on again.
So finally... has anyone seen any similar behaviour with their iMac and was it caused by software or hardware? And if it is software that's causing the problem, why can't I switch the machine on again immediately?
,

Amsys plc, the company Apple uses for off-site repairs returned my iMac20 today and the accompanying advice note states that the fault was resolved by replacing the power supply unit. I am really grateful to Apple for finally getting to the bottom of the problem, particularly as the repair was done free of charge, although I had already paid £49 for a useless workshop investigation at the Kingston store. The service given by Amsys was exemplary... the collection and return of the machine was carried out at the times promised and whenever I contacted the company by phone, each person I spoke to seemed to have knowledge of the repair without having to refer to the case notes (and none of the 'press 1 for service, 2 for sales...' rubbish).
So once again BDAqua, many thanks for suggesting I call Apple... it's just a shame that the staff of the Kingston store refused to accept what was obvious to me.

I've broke my phone, it won't switch on, is there any way to recover the data from it?

My phone has split up the side after I dropped it down some concrete stairs and now it won't switch on, so I need to know if there is anyway to recover the data from it, such as phone numbers, photo's etc. Anyone had this problem?
I've tried plugging it in to the computer but it doesn't do anything, and tried plugging it in to the wall to see if that will switch it on, but nothing.
Any help gratefully received! Steve

If it will not turn on - you have zero chance of getting anything off the phone.

Solution to SIII That Won't Switch to 3G?

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