SPA-2102 automatic power cycle problem

I have the SPA-2102 with one VOIP line. Often it will power cycle automatically every 15 minutes or so. All three lights go off for a second and then it comes back up and works for another 15 minutes. I had my provider replace the first one as they thought it was a faulty unit but the new one is doing the same thing. If this happens when I am on the phone the line goes dead and disconnects.
Also I was getting close to 5Mbps then it suddenly seemed to cap out at 4Mbps once this problem arose.
Suggestions?
Thanks

If you observed that every 15 minutes the SPA2102 is really turning off, is can be a sign of harware problem. I suggest contacting Cisco Tech support to further look into your concern. I believe this unit belongs to the business series devices that Cisco is now supporting. Try to go to this link for the other business series devices and the site where you can get hold of Cisco for support:
http://www.cisco.com/web/products/linksys/index.html

Similar Messages

Spa 2102 with power led flashing red

anyway to fix this? cannot access the unit via pc or ivr. BTW this is the second unit that has done this in the last 2 months

Im just guessing but sounds to me its the firmware or its not configured right.
Thats all i can think of at the time.
I hope you the best in gettin it fixed.
The default IP address for the adaptor is 192.168.0.1
Push that in the address bar on the brower.
Try the user name....user
The the password.....admin
Message Edited by sjl24 on 07-23-2007 08:19 AM

Problem with SPA 2102 (no tone/phone1 led not on)

Dear All, We are using spa 2102 adapters, two of them are working fine, one has some problem. The phone1 led is not working i.e, the phone has no tone. if we connect the adapter to PC through Ethernet its working fine and the DHCP is assigning the IP to adapter. Kindly resolve the issue. Thanks.

The problem is resolved!
I called the service provider and they told me to put the IP in the DMZ or outside friewall. But i just reserved an IP in DHCP server for this device and then put that IP in the Linksys seetings page as static IP rather DHCP.
It starts working and i was able to call and recieve calls.
Thanks.

Phone power-cycles every time I try to run Backup Assistant

I have an LG Glance , and have been having trouble with Backup Assistant. It used to work great, automatically backing up my contacts every afternoon. For the last year or so, however, every time I have tried to run Backup Assistant it power-cycles. For a while this would happen, then if I immediately went back to Backup Assistant after it re-started it would launch, but it would never accept my PIN. I called Verizon support, they made sure I was using the right PIN (I as), they re-set my PIN (didn't work), and they had me un-install and re-install Backup Assistant (didn't work). Now it power-cycles every time I try to launch Backup Assistant, so I never even get a chance to try my PIN. I have tried to launch Backup Assistant while the phone is plugged in (thinking it might be a power problem), but it did the exact same thing. The contacts in my Backup Assistant online are now almost a year out-of-date, and I'm soon going to be switching phones.
Any ideas about what I need to do to make Backup Assistant work again?

It sounds like you've done all the troubleshooting you can.
When you reinstall Backup Assistant, and it asks for a PIN, and it won't accept yours - here's something else you can try that HAS worked for me, counter-intuitive as it seems to be. Instead of using your existing PIN, choose the option to set up a NEW PIN - but then, put in your existing PIN anyway. Somehow that re-connects - at least it did for me.
You need to uninstall, reboot, and reinstall BUA, then, when going through the setup, choose NEW PIN. Use your existing as the NEW PIN.
If that doesn't work, a corporate store should be able to transfer your existing contacts from your current phone to your new device; my local store has done this for all of our recent upgrades.
Good luck to you!

Firewire 800 device not recognized after a power cycle

I picked up a Seagate FreeAgent Desk | Mac edition (1 Terabyte) a few weeks ago and the first thing I did was format it on my iMac (it came formatted, but I figured it wouldn't hurt). I also wanted to make sure it was done right. So I know the FS works great with this iMac.
As you may see, I have a 3.06 24" iMac to give you an idea of what machine this is being plugged into. The one FW 800 port in the back.
I picked 1394b (FW800) because the speeds are so impressive - and so far this drive is working great! With one exception ..
When I power the machine down & bring it back online, the drive does not automatically come back - and I have to disconnect either the power, or Firewire 800 cable (which I've tried two of - the stock one with the Seagate product and another high quality cable). After that it's smooth sailing.
I just want to get this device working between boots so I can rely on it to take my time machine backups without worrying about fiddling with it to get it working.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, and unfortunately this is my only FW 800 device (not much troubleshooting possibilities). I'm looking to buying a WD MyBook Studio 1TB Fw800 drive - but I won't be doing that (yet) if the port is my issue and not the Seagate drive.
This link is to an image in which you can see my Fw settings in System Profiler.
http://i39.tinypic.com/105dz4y.png
I've been reading the Seagate forums looking for some help, and there seems to be issues with the drivers powering themselves off and confusing the OS, but this doesn't look to be the case. Unfortunately I've got 700GB of data on this drive and will need to move the contents to my on-board drive so I can format the unit with Fat32, plug it into an XP PC (gogo upstairs) and run the Seagate Manager.exe and see if I can modify the power settings (all on a whim, awesome).
I'm just curious what I should do - I don't live in a city where there's an Apple store but there is an Apple authorised reseller/service centre. It looks as though I'll be heading there to see what's up.
Has anyone else seen a problem like this?
Thanks in advance,
hENN

not enough specific information about what caused the problem but I'll give you some pointers to ALWAYS follow with firewire drives. I've been using them for many years without issues through all the OSX versions.
If Mac is powered on: power on seagate and wait a few for the hard drive to spin up, connect firewire cable to Mac first then Seagate. When done : a) unmount the seagate listen for the hard drive to complete its cycle then power seagate down, remove firewire from Mac first then seagate. b) or just power down Mac then power off seagate when the Mac is done.
If Mac is not powered on: connect firewire cable to mac and seagate, power on seagate and listen for hard drive spin up to complete then power on Mac.
The problem with firewire is, if user makes just one mistake with the above then firewire recognition comes into play, such as device will not mount to desktop, etc. Sometimes user gets lucky and nothing happens but consider that rare.
So if user does have firewire troubles , what to do? Not fool proof but many times successful, disconnect external power and all cables and power cycle the external on/off a few times but listen for hard drive spin up and spin down. On the Mac either one or both zap the pram and or power manager reset. This works many times but does not save an external if user highly abuses the procedure. You can also apply this to USB troubles.

SG 200-08 - configuration changes disappear on power cycling

it's my first smart switch, but i've set up a million routers, so i'm not a complete n00b.
the only change that survived power cycling is the change of default password that it forced me to do.
what am i doing wrong, or is the box defect?

You will need to save your configuration changes before exiting the switch. Below are the steps to do this taken from the Admin guide.
THANKS
Rick Roe
Cisco Small Business Support Center
Copying and Saving Configuration FilesThe
Copy/Save Configuration page enables you to copy files within the filesystem. For example, you can copy the Backup Configuration file to the Startup
Configuration file so that it will be used the next time you boot up the switch.
To copy a file to the Startup or Backup Configuration file:
STEP 1
Click Administration > File Management > Copy/Save Configuration in thenavigation window.
STEP 2
Select the Source File Name:
Running Configuration
—Current configuration, including any changesapplied in the current management session.
Startup Configuration—Configuration file type used when the switch lastbooted. This does not include any configuration changes applied but not yet
saved to the switch.
Backup Configuration—Backup configuration file type saved on the switch.
Mirror Configuration—If the Running Configuration is not modified for atleast 24 hours, it is automatically saved to the Mirror Configuration file type,
and a log message with severity level
Alert is generated to indicate that anew Mirror Configuration file is available. The Mirror Configuration file can be
used when the switch has problems booting with the Startup or Backup
Configuration file types. In such cases, the administrator can copy the Mirror
Configuration to either the Startup or Backup Configuration file type and
reboot.
STEP 3
For the Destination File Name, select the file type to be overwritten with the file
you are copying:•
Startup Configuration—Configuration file type used when the switch lastbooted. This does not include any configuration changes applied but not yet
saved to the switch.
Backup Configuration—Backup configuration file type saved on the switch.
STEP 4
Click Apply to begin the copy process.When complete, a window displays the message, Copy Operation Successful.

SPA-2102 Nat Help

I can not register my line (user) with the scenario below.
spa2102 (192.168.81.254) --------| Fw-mikrotik (200.xxx.xxx.xxx)| ------| Internet | -------|( 189.xxx.xxx.xxx) Voip Provider|
I've tried NAT, STUN, port forward, but I had no success.
If I use the Grandstrean HT-386 ATA or a softphone (eyebeam), configured with STUN server (xten.stun.com), I have success.
My sap2102 configs.
Settings under Line 1 Tab
Line Enable Display Name
User ID - 2081
Password - XXXX
Use Auth ID - 2081
Auth ID - 2081
Proxy - 189.xxx.xxx.xxx
Outbound Proxy - 189.xxx.xxx.xxx
Use Outbound Proxy - yes
Use OB Proxy In Dialog - yes
Register - yes
Make Call Without Reg: - no
Register Expires - 3600
Ans Call Without Reg - no
Use DNS SRV - no
DNS SRV Auto Prefix -no
Proxy Fallback Intvl - 120
NAT Mapping Enable - yes
NAT Keep Alive Enable -yes
Dial Plan
Preferred Codec: g729
Use Pref Codec Only: no
G729a Enable
G723 Enable
G726-16 Enable
G726-24 Enable
G726-32 Enable
G726-40 Enable
Hook Flash TX Method
Settings under SIP Tab
STUN Enable - yes
STUN Server - yes
STUN Test Enable - no
Handle VIA received - yes
Handle VIA rport - yes
Insert VIA received - yes
Insert VIA rport - yes
NAT Keep Alive Intvl - 15
The Internet Access spa is working. Because I can manage it remotely.
Than's for all

Have you tried solely to use STAN server? Try to set “Use Outbound Proxy” to “No” and use the “xten.stun.com” and the STUN server. Try to ensure that the SPA2102 is using the latest firmware version. Is the “Fw-mikrotik” as router? If it id try to make sure that ports 5060-5061 are open (default SIP ports of the SPA2102). After these, try to power cycle the network and see of you will have the same problem.

WRT350N and Cable Modem Power Cycle

I have the cable modem and linksys router plugged into the same power surge. I noticed that I need to power up the cable modem first in order to register ISP info with my broadband service. If I powered up the router and modem at the SAME time(along with the desktop), my router does not configure the DCHP address on time, and my PC will not have Internet Connectivity. Internet Explorer web pages (including the default home page) will load very slow or produce an error after a while, and if you view your router Status page you'll see no Current Time available. At this time, I am forced to Release/Renew IP address and continually hit Refresh on the status page to regain Internet Connectivity and correct data(Time stamp, DNS, Domain name, Default gateway,etc....). It doesn't sound like a big deal, but what if you're not home and another user boots up my PC and sees no Internet connection? Manually renewing IP address info can become a hassle, when the router's DHCP service should automatically do this in the first place.
Now you have to use a specific Power Cycle, and write it down for guest users, when your network devices have been shut down. The cable modem has to be powered up before the router. This gives the modem some time to receive the proper ready lights on its LED status. Plugging the router in seconds later makes the reconnection occur smoother and automatically. As you can understand, this usually doesn't occur when you leave your network on for days, weeks, at a time.
This could be a specific ISP issue, but if your network starts up otherwise, please respond.

That status page has been configured many times. How many times do you think I've been in and out of that 192.168.1.1 interface? DHCP was enabled and automatic from the start, and the MAC address is cloned.
The time frame it takes for the cable modem to register ISP information and where the router accepts and implements those settings is where the problem lies. The 2 devices are not in sync if they are powered on together. Letting the cable modem initialize first makes the router authenticate the network settings better. The router obviously loses DNS settings when it is shut down or there is a power outage. I don't want to release and renew IP addresses every time the pc,modem, and router are powered on from a cold start. The other hassle is unplugging the modem for 15 seconds, replugging, then rebooting the pc, while others might constantly reset the router instead. Like I said, other guests/users might not know what to do in this instance. There are times when the network is shutted down periodically and a clean restart is needed unfortunately. Having a UPS back up would probably be a good solution.

UPNP on Linksys SPA-2102?

So basically, this is my setup: internet modem > plugs into SPA-2102 > phone plugs into SPA-2102 > internet cable goes into ethernet switch > ethernet switch goes into two computers Steam (and other internet applications) will automatically disconnect-I'm assuming the ports are blocked-so I've switch to a static IP for both computers. I've forwarded the required ports for Steam (I'm trying to play the same games with my brother), but only one of us seems to be able to connect to Steam at one time. What should I do that will allow both of us to access the same ports? I've phoned Linksys and they told me to enable UPNP through the admin panel, and I told my phone company, but they do not see it as an option. Does the SPA-2102 have UPNP? If yes, how would I go upon enabling it? If no, what should I do? This problem is extremely frustrating. Thanks in advance, David Leong

What is the modem that you have?is that a router also?
Without the SPA2102, are the two computers able to connect to steam also,
modem - switch - computers
I'm thinking that you may have double NAT, setting the SPA2102 to bridge mode, should get teh phone to work as well but there may be some settings that you have already set some where for your router to work.
Try this setup if your modem is a router as well.
modem - switch - computer
- computer
- SPA2102
Message Edited by me_grimlock on 03-12-2008 05:56 PM

My macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

HP 6310 AIO Printer locks up and needs to be power-cycled when faxing from my PC.

I have an HP 6310 AIO Printer; Whenever I try to fax a document from my PC, the printer locks up (All lights flashing) and needs to be power-cycled. I can fax from the printer glass directly but unable to from my PC. Also the software communicates properly whenever I am scanning from the glass or feed tray. What would make it locks up and all light flashing? it seems as if whenever I generate the fax or scan from the PC end it locks up the printer.

Completely reload the full feature software and drivers for the printer.
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos Thumbs Up to the right in the post.
If my post resolved your problem, please mark it as an Accepted Solution ...
I worked for HP but now I'm retired!

X1 Any-room DVR, 3 nights have to Power cycle all 3 DVR boxes to see Recordings

On 7/2 I went to watch a DVR show in my bedroom, which is not my Primary DVR box. The recording was playing like a slideshow, skipping and moving at 1/100th of it's normal play speed. So I went into the living room to the primary DVR and checked the recordings from the Saved Programs menu and it told me that no recordings were available and Comcast was working to fix this problem. I then called Comcast customer service and a man sent a refresh signal for me, and it reset the primary DVR box, and then the recordings came back on the primary box. I went to check the secondary box in the bedroom where I had the original problem, and that box still was not showing any recording, it didn't have the same error, it just said that no recordings were available and to check if all my DVR boxes were plugged in. I asked the guy on the phone and he told me that I should unplug that one and plug it back in and that it should then work. I asked if he should wait on the phone in case it didn't and he said no, and that if it didn't, if I just waited another half hour it would be back. I hastily agreed and hung up.Well, they never came back that night. And I checked for another 2 hours. On the morning of 7/3, it still wasn't back, so I decided I would power cycle all of the boxes at the same time. I unplugged all 3, waited a minute. Then I plugged in the primary one, waited for that to come all the way on, waited 5 minutes after the primary box was all the way on and then proceeded to plug in the 2 other DVR boxes. Then I waited 5 minutes until after they were back live on TV to check the DVR menu (the original guy on the phone insisted that I should wait at least 3 minutes after the DVR box was turned all the way back onto live tv before opening the Saved Recordings menu). This seemed to work, the recordings came back and it worked fine for a little while during the day that day. Later that night I went to sleep really late after 12am. I went to play a DVR show in bed and it said again that my recordings were unavailable and to check all the DVR boxes. AGAIN!? YES. So I did the same thing again, I unplugged all 3, plugged in primary box, waited for it to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, plugged in the other 2, waited for them to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, then checked the saved list and it came back. Then it worked for the rest of that night.The next day on 7/4, I was out all day so I didn't really get a chance to watch until later on that afternoon, I can't remember if I watched anything DVR'd. But that night I went to bed and guess what!? The recordings were gone again. I did the same thing again. It worked for the night.Today, on 7/5, watched a couple shows on the DVR during the day, was still working. Went to bed at 9:30 pm... RECORDINGS ARE GONE AGAIN! SOOOOO I spend another 20 or more minutes power cycling and waiting and stuff, it works, I start to watch a show, 20 minutes in, it freezes, like it did the first night. I try to restart the recording several times. Still frozen. I try resetting just the bedroom box through the power settings menu on the DVR. When it comes back on, NO RECORDINGS AGAIN! TWICE IN ONE NIGHT. I am completely fed up at this point. I know if I call that you are just going to tell me to power cycle it or send a refresh signal again, and it's going to take another hour--and then it is just going to stop working again by tomorrow night!!! I am losing sleep over this at this point, literally. What is going to be done about this beyond power cycling and refresh signaling??? I refuse to spend any more time on the phone anymore at night when this happens, it wakes up my boyfriend who has work earlier than me.

bethanybrennan wrote:
On 7/2 I went to watch a DVR show in my bedroom, which is not my Primary DVR box. The recording was playing like a slideshow, skipping and moving at 1/100th of it's normal play speed. So I went into the living room to the primary DVR and checked the recordings from the Saved Programs menu and it told me that no recordings were available and Comcast was working to fix this problem. I then called Comcast customer service and a man sent a refresh signal for me, and it reset the primary DVR box, and then the recordings came back on the primary box. I went to check the secondary box in the bedroom where I had the original problem, and that box still was not showing any recording, it didn't have the same error, it just said that no recordings were available and to check if all my DVR boxes were plugged in. I asked the guy on the phone and he told me that I should unplug that one and plug it back in and that it should then work. I asked if he should wait on the phone in case it didn't and he said no, and that if it didn't, if I just waited another half hour it would be back. I hastily agreed and hung up.Well, they never came back that night. And I checked for another 2 hours. On the morning of 7/3, it still wasn't back, so I decided I would power cycle all of the boxes at the same time. I unplugged all 3, waited a minute. Then I plugged in the primary one, waited for that to come all the way on, waited 5 minutes after the primary box was all the way on and then proceeded to plug in the 2 other DVR boxes. Then I waited 5 minutes until after they were back live on TV to check the DVR menu (the original guy on the phone insisted that I should wait at least 3 minutes after the DVR box was turned all the way back onto live tv before opening the Saved Recordings menu). This seemed to work, the recordings came back and it worked fine for a little while during the day that day. Later that night I went to sleep really late after 12am. I went to play a DVR show in bed and it said again that my recordings were unavailable and to check all the DVR boxes. AGAIN!? YES. So I did the same thing again, I unplugged all 3, plugged in primary box, waited for it to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, plugged in the other 2, waited for them to go to live tv, waited 5 mins, then checked the saved list and it came back. Then it worked for the rest of that night.The next day on 7/4, I was out all day so I didn't really get a chance to watch until later on that afternoon, I can't remember if I watched anything DVR'd. But that night I went to bed and guess what!? The recordings were gone again. I did the same thing again. It worked for the night.Today, on 7/5, watched a couple shows on the DVR during the day, was still working. Went to bed at 9:30 pm... RECORDINGS ARE GONE AGAIN! SOOOOO I spend another 20 or more minutes power cycling and waiting and stuff, it works, I start to watch a show, 20 minutes in, it freezes, like it did the first night. I try to restart the recording several times. Still frozen. I try resetting just the bedroom box through the power settings menu on the DVR. When it comes back on, NO RECORDINGS AGAIN! TWICE IN ONE NIGHT. I am completely fed up at this point. I know if I call that you are just going to tell me to power cycle it or send a refresh signal again, and it's going to take another hour--and then it is just going to stop working again by tomorrow night!!! I am losing sleep over this at this point, literally. What is going to be done about this beyond power cycling and refresh signaling??? I refuse to spend any more time on the phone anymore at night when this happens, it wakes up my boyfriend who has work earlier than me.I am betting on a long-shot, but does your market have "Cloud" and are you using it? This could explain the clipping, and the LOST recordings.... You did do the right steps to getting your Any-Room DVR working, but if those recordings are in the cloud and the cloud had issues, you wouldn't have seen them.... -=Ray=-

Satellite Windows 8 laptop will no longer boot up after performing a power cycle

I have a Satellite C855-55107 laptop. It had been working fine, and one day starting this problem: When booting up, it would bring the desktop screen up, and would not let me get to the sign in screen. I went to the Troubleshooting Help here and performed a power cycle. Now, it won't even boot up. The power is working fine. What do I need to do, and what do you think caused the original problem?

Hi! bec! I don't run W8. You could have picked up a Virus ect. Hard to really tell. There will be better replies during the week. I would restore back to factory.If you were infected, that should cure that problem. You could also make a system repair disk and try to boot with it. It can be made with any computer that is running W8. If you don't have that option, I guess it's back to factory.
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/System-Recovery-and-Recovery/Creating-a-System-Repair-Disc-for-Windows-...
THROUGH F12 AT STARTUP
To access the System Restore, Refresh and Reset options using the F12 option at startup, perform the following:
If not already, ensure the computer is completely shut down. How To: Shut Down a Laptop with Windows 8
Now restart the computer by pressing the power button - IMMEDIATELY start tapping the F12 key on the keyboard until the "Boot Menu" screen appears.
Using the arrow keys, select <HDD Recovery> and press "Enter".
On the next screen you are asked to confirm if you want to contiue with recovery. Select "Yes".
The computer will bring you to the Advanced startup screen.
Select Troubleshoot. Under Troubleshoot you will see “Refresh” and “Reset”.
Select “Advanced options.” Located here is "System Restore."
Plese read this carefully.
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Windows-8-Knowledge-Base/How-To-Shut-Down-a-Laptop-with-Windows-8/ta-p/...
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.

After update my imac to yosemite automatically power off ifself.pls help

hi friends , I updated my imac (24-inch,Early 2009) to yosemite and update was ok.after update i restart imac then it is booting and showing apple log and coming to password page then automatically power off ifself. if i start with safe mode it is working fine. can everyone help me.

Hi.
You are running into a problem that many users of the 24-inch, early 2009 iMac 9,1's have encountered (including me). The Sudden Shutdown Syndrome is the scourge of many iMacs and Mac Book Pros.
Unfortunately, I believe that the only solution is for Apple/nVidia to revisit their geForce Tesla drivers and figure out if the power management is correct.
In your case, I'd try this:
1) Boot up your computer in safe mode and log into your user account.
2) In the Finder menu, select Go > Go to Folder...
3) Type: " ~/Library/Caches" (without quotes) into the box and press return. You will be taken to the Caches folder.
4) Select all the files in the folder and move to the trash (do not trash the folder itself). At this point, just leave them in the trash...don't erase them.
5) Go back to the Finder menu, select Go > Go to Folder...
6) Type: "/Library/Caches" (without quotes) into the box and press return.
7) Do the same thing you did in 4) This time, though, you will be asked for an administrator's password.
8) Restart your computer in normal mode and attempt login.
9) If you can log to the desktop, you may delete your trash.
Hopefully this will get you into your account. If it doesn't, you may have to do a clean install of Yosemite, go back to Mavericks, or wait for an update.
Good luck!

Power Cycling P67A-GD65 (B3)

P67A-GD65 (B3)
2500k i5 Sandybridge
HD 4850
Corsair TX750
2 x 4GB G-Skill 1600 Ripjaws
CM Hyper 212 Plus
1 TB Caviar Black
My build has been stable for about 3 months now but today I went to play a game but the monitor was turned off. I switched the computer off and back on and it started power cycling. I reset the CMOS and it still power cycled. I also tried 1 RAM stick in every RAM slot but still same thing. Everything is plugged in correctly as I have been using it succesfully for the last 3 months until now. Would it be safe to say that I need to RMA it?

Quote from: Jerbsinator on 19-November-11, 11:29:51
No offense but you and many others on this board give MSI too much credit. These boards are widely known to have problems and MSI obviously isn't fixing them very well because I am not the only person that has got this power cycling issue.
Also you implying that I was the one that caused my board to fail is ridiculous. The board died, I replaced it and it booted up fine so I obviously did nothing wrong. Don't be a [censored] about it.
Let's just all cool down.
As for the statement which I have highlighted in Bold, that is a very general statement to make. To begin with, the problem of P67 chipsets lies with Intel and Intel has issued an official notice several months ago on the issues. Though revisions like B3 version had been released to solve the glitches found in the P67 chipsets, no one knows how many other problems are still unannounced thus no one dares to speculate. Do note, that the P67 chipset problem affects all manufacturers worldwide as everyone only gets their P67 from one source, which is obviously, Intel.
As far as I'm concerned about stability, the below quoted is what I have done and have been doing all this while before any tweaking starts.
Quote from: NovJoe on 18-November-11, 10:16:31
You can overclock the system but since you have experienced instability before, that is the reason why you should do everything under stock to make sure it is rock stable before you start to tweak it again.
Trust me, 1 week is a good time frame for monitoring. For all my gaming systems that I build for my clients, I always make sure that I have a 1.5 weeks allowance to do monitoring and testings in stock before I hand over the system to them. Thereafter, anything above stock, it is all in their hands to manage.

SPA-2102 automatic power cycle problem

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