Speedlight 430ex ii on a 6D - aperture blinking!!???

Hoping someone can help me understand what is going on here... I'm still learning about using my flash so maybe expecting the wrong thing.... I have my camera set to Tv, and auto ISO, the lights are low in the living room and i take a shot of my sleeping black and white dog. The camera beeps to say it is in focus. Camera takes the shot at 1/125, f/4, ISO 8000. Picture somes out a bit dark. I then attach my speedlight... try to take the same shot and now the aperture is flashing??? ISO tries to use 400 so that makes sense - since it's underexposed ... so i then set the ISO myself to 8000 or higher and the Aperture is still flashing (which i know means that the exposure is not correct as far as the camera is concerned). Why is it happy with the scene without the flash but when i add the flash it's not? I tried a lot of shutter speeds (much slower) in combination with higher ISOs (still in Tv proority) and stilll i have a flashing aperture. I would have thought that since the flash is set to ETTL the camera recognizes that it is there and will provide the necessary light??? is this not the case? If i ingore the flashing aperture (which by the way is always reading f/4 for this shot) and bounce the flash the shot comes out well. if i aim directly at the dog it way over exposes (as you'd expect). Why is the aperture flashing when the flash is on/attached but not when it's off?
Body: Canon 6D, Canon T1i, Canon Elan II,
Glass: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, Canon 18-55 kit lens, Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.8,
Flash: Canon Speedlite 430ex ii

The only modes where the camera behaves differently because a flash is present is in full auto mode and also the Program mode.
In program mode, if you switch the flash off and meter the shot in low-ish light and note the exposure, you may be wide-open with a fairly low shutter speed (set a deliberately low ISO so you can see this... e.g. as I'm doing it while writing this reply, with no flash my camera wants to use f/4 and 1/15th sec.) If you switch the flash ON and re-meter, you get a lightning bolt icon on the back LCD screen (so the camera recognizes the flash) and while the aperture stays the same... the shutter speed bumps up to 1/60th.
In every OTHER mode... the camera behaves as if there is no flash and uses the flash as if it's a "fill" light. BTW... you WANT the flash to do this.
Here's why...
Flash (and frankly any light) follows a light fall-off rule called the "inverse square law".
The best tutorial I've ever come across on this is Adorama's Mark Wallace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nk9cTa3UthM
Assuming you watched that... suppose you are taking a photo of a friend who is standing 7' in front of your camera and flash. Suppose we point the flash straight ahead (even though we could get better lighting using other techniques -- we'll keep this basic) The amount of flash power needed to properly expose a subject at 7' (whatever that is) will continue to spread apart as it gets farther from the camera ... that's what light does... it spreads out. Every time the distance increase based on the inverse of the square of 2 (in other words 1.41 ... which is roughly the square root of 2) the amount of light reaching that distance will be HALF as bright. 7 x 1.41 is about 10'. So your 7' friend is nicely illuminated... but anything just 3' farther away is getting HALF as much light. If you double the distance (14') it's half again... or ONE QUARTER of the total light. At 20' it's half as much again... or 1/8th as much light. So this is why you get a bright foreground subject and the brackground looks hideously underexposed. There are several options to fix this, but one of the easiest ways to is to "drag the shutter".
"Dragging the shutter" simply means that you deliberately leave the shutter open LONGER than needed considering you are using a flash. This allows the camera to expose for the AMBIENT light, but punch the subject with flash to "freeze" that subject. The result is a beautifully will illuminated subject... and yet a nice collection of the available light illuminating the background making for a nicely balanced shot from front to back.
This happens almost automatically because the camera naturally wants to meter for available light EVEN THOUGH it's going to use flash. It will back down the power of the flash to keep from over-exposing your subject.
If the shutter speed drops too much (very dark) then you can get blur caused by camera shake and that wont look good. For this reason, I usually switch to manual mode so I can keep the shutter from being too slow (yes... the computer in the camera may warn you that it's under-exposed, but it will automatically set the flash power based on the E-TTL metering calculation). You want to collect as much "available" light as you can without going so long that you get blur from camera shake.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Similar Messages

Triggering Speedlite 430ex with 540ez

Can anyone help me, I have a Speedlight 430ex (not the II) and I have a speedlight 540ez, Is there away I can tirgger them both at the same time if so how?

The 540EZ is from an older generation flash designed for film use and it is not compatible with auto exposure in Digital photography. You can use it in manual mode but it is has no capability for master/slave using the Canon wireless system. If you use the built-in optical wireless function of your 60D to trigger the 430EX, there is no way to include the 540EZ.
If you want to use both the 540EZ and 430EX at the same time you will need to buy some wireless triggers. I am really impressed with the Yongnuo YN-622C radio triggers. You would need a total of 3. 1 to act as transmitter on the camera and 1 for each flash. The beauty of these triggers is that you have the choice to use your 430EX in ETTL or Manual and still sync with the 540EZ in Manual mode.
Three YN-622C triggers would cost about $150.
Mike Sowsun
S110, SL1, 5D Mk III

New 7D has trouble talking to 430Ex speedlight.

Regardless if I have the flash control set to external only or both. I turn on the external flash, it show the channel etc. I pop up the on camera flash and enable both. Standing right in front of the 430 and pressing a test flash, nothing . Going around to the external and waking it up, take a picture, no external flash. Finally after two or three shots, the external starts blinking.
Can someone tell me the proper procedure so I know if there is something wrong with this new gear?
Thanks,
Ron

Hi Hairdad,
We're sorry to hear that your EOS 7D is having trouble talking to your Speedlite 430EX. I'd like to go over the steps to get this working for you.
1. Press the [FLASH] button to pop-up the built in flash. Ensure the Speedlite 430EX is set to Slave mode.
2. Select [Flash Control] under the Camera 1 Tab, then press <SET>.
3. Select [Built-in flash func. Setting], then press <SET>.
4. Select [Flash Mode], select [E-TTL II] then press <SET>.
5. Select [Wireless Func.] and choose the Speedlite fire option.
6. Set [Channel] to the same as the Slave Unit is set to.
7. Fire a Test flash. The slave should fire, if not then check the settings again. (Page 119)
8. Take the picture.
Everything should be working OK now. I trust you will give us a call if you have any unresolved issues. Please call 1 - (800) 828 - 4040 and follow the prompts for Technical Support. Our agents are available Monday through Friday, from 8 AM to Midnight EST, and on Saturdays from 10 AM to 8 PM EST.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

My 3.4.5 has ~ 35000 jpg masters. I have set aperture not to create previews on import and have ensured "maintain previews" is not ticked. Every time I start aperture it insists on creating previews for ~ 4300 images. Why?

Having had the previews created I selected all photos and "delete previews". It did this quickly and no more previews being created. Once aperture is closed and then re-opened aperture immediately sets about creating the previews for the same photos. I don't understand why this should be happening.
This is occuring on my Mackbook Air (Aug 2012) which has 256 GB storage. I am fast running out of space as I am using "Managed Masters". I intend to make the masters referenced by relocating them to an external HDD but before doing this would like to clear up this problem first. I keep my Vault on the external HDD and have Time Machine and Time Capsule. When I have relocated the masters to the external HDD I intend that TM backs the external HDD to the TC. I tink that I will use the second partition on the external HDD for Carbon Copy Cloner to back up the Mackbook Air.
Any help or advice warmly welcomed.

Frank
Many thanks for your input.
Following your advice I have selected all the projects individually and checked the status of Mantain Previews. Some were indeed marked up for Mantail Preview so I have unmarked them.
I have also selected Photos and deleted previews and also repeated this for My Projects.
Checking the Get Info for the Preview folder in Aperture Library in Finder this now tells me that I have zero bytes for 564 items.
Close and then reopen Aperture and it regenerates these564 previews in the blink of an eye. I haven't been able to locate these photos yet. I know there are about 120 in facebook and 10 in photostream but dont know where the rest are.
It seems the issue is not with Aperture but with myself and not understanding Aperture sufficiently well
Do you see the problem this way?

Speedlight setup for 7d and other settings

So I'm very new to "action photography" specific to radio controlled cars. I have a canon 7D. I have learned how to set the c1-c3 to custom settings. For now I use the green "square" setting for group photo's and still "shop" photo's. I'm perfectly happy for now with the results my 7d produces in respect to those photo's. I just got the YONGNUO speedlite today. Here are the constants of my shooting:
1. Warehouse type lighting(not good especially when setting the apeture speed to about 1000) dark photo's.
2. the next few months (until spring) will be same setting
I want to set c1-c3 to cover action shots within a range of these poorly lighted facilitys
so any suggestions on what I shoudl set them too and what the best settings I should set my speedlight to???
thanks again, this is one of the best forums I have ever been to for ANY subject
Www.rc-ops.com

I don't have a Yongnuo flash. I use a bunch of Canon 550EX and 580EX II flashes and am most familiar with them. So the following may or may not be exactly what you can do with your flash... But it's what I'd do with my flashes.
A flash can be used in a warehouse lighting situation, so long as you are just trying to illuminate a specific item and not the entire warehouse. I suspect you won't be able to bounce the flash off ceiling or walls, so will probably need to direct it right at your subject. That may or may not give you the results you want. But, what the heck, give it a try and see if the results are what you wanted...
If you are using a longer telephoto lens, you might also need a flash extender to concentrate the light farther away. Most flashes are designed for up to about 100 or 135mm. Using 200mm or 300mm lens with them might be unsatisfactory without an extender (link is to the only one I found quickly that's specifically for Yongnuo flashes, you might shop around... I use a different type for my Canon flashes). A flash extender can bump lighting strength by 2 or 3 stops at a typical telephoto distances.
Now try this...
Set your camera to 1/250 shutter speed, manual mode (M), and put the flash in ETTL. You control the reach (distance) of the flash with the lens aperture... the larger aperture, the farther the flash will reach. Use a smaller aperture for closer distances, to prevent blowing out images. Turn off Auto ISO. Set your camera's ISO a bit below what it would need to record the ambient light with the shutter speed and aperture combo you're using. At the same time, be aware that the higher the ISO you use also increases the flash's effective reach at any given aperture. You have to strike a balance, where you get the reach you need but keep the ISO low enough to make the flash the primary or main (or only) light source.
Using M makes the flash the main light source, as far as the camera is concerned. ETTL will still provide auto exposure, even though the camera is set to M with Auto ISO turned off. Using flash as the primary light source (overpowering the ambient lighting), will eliminate most or all problems with the color of mixed lighting. Use the "Flash" white balance setting on your camera (it might do it automatically if left in Auto White Balance, once the camera senses a flash is being used).
You can still use Flash Exposure Compensation to increase or decrease the exposures you're getting.
The main reason to set up this way is that the flash will act like a relatively fast shutter speed, around 1/720 is typical with most flashes. That will freeze relatively fast action. You could even slow the camera's shutter down to 1/200, 1/160, 1/125, 1/60... It would matter because the camera's shutter speed doesn't really determine the exposure, so long as it's not so slow that ambient light starts to be recorded. In other words, the flash is acting like a shutter, instead of the camera's shutter.
If some ambient light is still being recorded, you can see some odd (or interesting) ghosting effects. You have a choice... set the flash to rear curtain sync so that the ghosting "trails" the subject and looks more realistic.... or you can decrease your ISO, so that less ambient light is being recorded at your chosen aperture and shutter speed. (Note: You cannot use rear curtain sync and HSS at the same time, see below.)
If the flash itself isn't fast enough to freeze the action, you will have no choice but to use High Speed Sync (HSS). That's usually set on the flash itself and it seriously limits the distance your flash can reach, but allows you to bump up your shutter speed to better freeze action... to be able to get enough reach, use the lowest shutter speed you can.... try around 1/800 or 1/1000, 1/1250... the faster your shutter speed, the less reach of the flash.
Unless you shoot in the same location frequently, the lighting there is very consistent and you want the same sort of results all the time, you may or may not be able to use one of the presets (C1, C2, C3) the way you're trying to do.
Be sure to turn off Auto ISO. And do not use any of the camera's auto exposure modes (Av, Tv, P). Those will force the flash to FILL mode, and try to expose based on the ambient light as the main source. You'll get too slow shutter speeds, or too shallow depth of field due to too large an aperture, or too high an ISO
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Full 64-bit Aperture 3 Performance Maxed

All Macs running Snow Leopard that are Core2Duo or better are capable of full 64-bit, but from reading the threads I would say almost nobody is doing this.
Currently, of all Macs on the market now, only the X-Serve boots into full 64 bit mode by default.
I guess that this is because Apple assumes a server is typically professionally managed, meaning the operator would have the technical savvy to verify that all required software is 64 bit clean....ALSO servers do not tend to have any excess software on them that is not needed for them to function.
Stark contrast to the overstuffed user machines cluttered with useless old files PLUS there is still lot of current valid user software not 64-bit capable yet, like PS CS4. Knowing this, Apple does not want a lot of complaints from average, non IT professional users for current non-64 bit incompatibilities, and that is understandable. This makes Apple's default boot mode for Snow Leopard on user machines 32 bit mode. Currently Apple makes users DELIBERATELY select full 64 bit mode at boot...and in so assuming that these hopefully savvy users know the possible consequences.
Now when running in the default 32 bit mode, 64 bit apps will operate in either 64 bit, or if so selected in their Info box, 32 bit to maximize compatibility. While running a 64 bit app increases its performance, it is only a portion of the performance running a full 64-bit machine will do.
If your system has a lot of extensions or old drivers or other associated crapola <(technical term) left over from years of upgrades, you might just want to pass on this suggestion right now...HOWEVER if your system is decently clean, a fresh install of the OS and Aperture 3, you will most likely be fine.
Aperture 3 running on a full 64-bit machine is a delightful improvement, and in my limited experience to date SMOKIN' fast.
Now if you are on still on Leopard, congrats, you kept better performance than the early SL adopter folks on Aperture 2...BUT Aperture 3 NEEDS SL to make it sing, so if you are going to move to Aperture 3, UPGRADE to SL 10.6.2 NOW.
Assuming we are all on SL 10.6.2 now let's talk full 64 bit, and getting all the performance your hardware can deliver.
OK then...On this clean system, restart and hold both the 6 and 4 keys down during boot. You can then verify the full 64 bit mode by looking in the System Profiler. Select About this Mac... More Info... then click on the Software title header in the left column and in the second to last line you should see:
" 64-bit Kernel and Extensions: Yes"
WELCOME to your full 64 bit machine.
After checking you are in full 64 bit, launch Aperture 3, and Activity Monitor...to monitor performance.
If all goes well, Aperture should now be SMOKIN fast. I can hold the arrow key down in full screen and D3X .NEFs render almost immediately, smaller files a blink. 6GB on my MBP shows no pageouts running just Aperture 3. An 8 core Mac Pro with lots of RAM will be MUCH faster due to full 64 bit AND the parallel core thread processing.
Imports with backups to a secondary disk (YAAY!!!) are so fast I cannot believe it, I think it is faster than Photo Mechanic, which is my gold standard for import/ingest speed.
Now the two finger 6 and 4 key reboot method is only temporary, the next reboot it will revert to 32 bit mode, which is handy at this point in time if you have run into crashing or other problems.
If you find you have a clean system you can make it boot into 64 bit all the time, but that is part of a larger performance discussion...just try this and see if you are doing better in terms of performance.
Remember, most plug-ins, etc. are not going to be 64 bit yet...in fact Aperture even displays this in the File:Export... menu where it says (32 bit) next to the names of plug-ins. OBVIOUSLY (I hope) it probably would not be such a great idea to try these in this full 64-bit mode (ya think?). Just enjoy the stuff that does =).
So...chances are VERY good you probably cannot do all your work in this mode just yet...BUT...if you are limiting tasks for the moment to just Aperture and the OS, like library conversion, or learning the new features, you probably will blow through this much faster than in 32 bit.
ALSO, while I am talking Aperture performance...
Aperture also needs really fast storage to see max performance with big libraries (500GB+), and I mean an eSATA host with a striped array. Firewire 800 and lesser technologies are 3-4 times slower on average. Sadly, Only the 17" MBP (and all previous size version MBPs) and the Mac Pro can run an eSATA host. To me this is the single biggest drawback to the iMac, and seems REALLY silly now that you can buy an iMac with an i7 processor with a great graphics card...but only the internal single drive is eSATA, and you are stuck with FW800 for storage.
Anyway, I am running a Sonnet Tempo Pro Express 34 card in my MBP connected to Sonnet Fusion D500P array with 10TB of disk space, formatted using SoftRAID. My dedicated space for Aperture benchmarks on this setup at about 130MB/sec on average of all tests. Two crucial facts here is that the Sonnet drivers for the card (v2.2.1) are full 64-bit as well as the fact that a 64 bit version of the SoftRAID driver is included with Snow Leopard for users in 64 bit mode, which will allow you to keep existing volumes and access data from the 64 bit version of Snow Leopard.
Anyway, fellow Aperture 3 adopters I encourage you to give it a shot...and I hope this results in some smiling faces...
Sincerely,
K.J. Doyle
PS No flames please... of course since this is all new ground YMMV... proceed at your own risk, there is a reason Apple is not making this easy right now...'nuff said, I hope.

Kevin -- is it your understanding that Aperture can and will default to 64 bit performance without need to reboot 6-4?
Hi Miguel,
He is correct, Aperture will be running in 64 bit, but the rest of the machine will not, and Aperture is dependent on many other subsystems, storage being #1 given the huge size of libraries. As I said above, I am pretty sure Apple would not recommend you run full 64 because of the other incompatibilities that exist on the machine, it would cause too many complaints from those who do not understand the need for 64 bit clean operation, and that all apps are not there yet.
HOWEVER, there is a lot more to this than just Aperture's operation, as it is an app that uses many resources.
There is a very significant difference in operating my eSATA array with 64 bit drivers and a full 64 bit machine, and therefore Aperture runs much faster than it would using the 32 bit drivers for the storage.
There are other issues as well with greatly improved OS memory operations and other technical issues that impact this as well. The more RAM you have the bigger the improvement. This impacts parallel processing of threads, and again gives more time to Aperture in the bargain.
Sincerely,
K.J. Doyle

Aperture 3.4.1 and raw 4 update installed now many of my D700 and D800E raw files are turning in to unsupported file format?

Only happens if the file is opened for editing and not to all files. Pictures are visible in the browser. No issuses with Aperture prior to upgrade. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

leonieDF
Have not been able to re-install raw 3.13 always says newer software and closes
I have Aperture disc 1,2,and 3;
Followed commands to re-install from #3 no change in library's unsupported images when upgraded to 3.4.1
Uninstall again with Mac Cleaner all ?DLL files erased only library remains
Install #3 from disc and new permissions to open library"from newer version" and all of previous images restored, but new older ones start to blink out "they do not turn black but look like you are using rabbit ears to tune in your TV, scrambled" until viewed for processing then become unsupported.
Repaired 3.1 library and Aperture would open but not open library. Re-installed 3.4.1 many more images failing to load across entire 5700 Nef's library but not JPEG.
Close but where is culprit?
Raw 4 is always there even in Aperture 3.1 due to Lion OSX8
3.4.1 is the only down loaded upgrade, new down load each time
Raw files/cameras are D200,D700,D800E and possibly Lecia DLUX-3
IMAC 2.4 core 2 duo
4G 667
Radeon HD 2600
OSX 10.8.2
no aperture problems since 1.0 until recent upgrades
Thank-you

Which second speedlight should I buy?

Hi,
I'm trying to work out which speedlight to buy. I currently own a 430EX II and use this with a Pocket Wizard Flex TT5 and Mini TT1 to use off camera but I now need to buy a second speedlight and maybe in a few months I'll buy a third.
My question is do I buy:
- the new 600EX-RT to future proof my setup. Obviously with the 430EX II I know that the radio functionality won't work but hopefully the next speedlight I'd buy would be another 600EX-RT so it would make the setup more flexible. I'd also sell the Flex/Mini as the 600 would be my new Master.
- another 430EX II...if I do this do I have to buy another Flex TT5 to make them both talk to each other? If I do then it seems pointless to take this option but let me know.
- a used 530EX-II and again sell the Flex/Mini.
Any comments/advice would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Zoë

I sold all my old flashes and Cybersync triggers and purchased two 600EX-RT and an ST-ET-RT and have never looked back. I don't miss the triggers and the RT is great. Going to get a third 600 one day.
Website

LR4 Video = Aperture Knockoff - Great --- But knock it off RIGHT !

Hi.....
I dont particularly like Aperture. But I have been using it for a while now to organize my video-rushes.
Particularly trimming the H264 prior to transcode is amazing.
So I saw that LR4 had gotten video capabilities and downloaded the beta.
Great work Adobe. Must say. Really like to be able to WB my clips in Lightroom prior to transcoding. Super.
However, what use is Lightroom really If I cant:
1) Export to a Real-World codec. (You offer H.264 or DPX - Latter is GREAT but a little overkill for an H264 source that doesn't need to go commercial)
2) Import the trimmed clip (with the trims) directly into Premiere Pro or other apps. (I can drag the clip from LR4 directly into PPRO but PPRO will NOT adapt the in and outpoints which is totally stupid ;-)))
The way LR4 implements Video capabilities is an exact knock-off of Aperture 3.
What I ask is that if you have the audacity to so clearly copy Apples features why dont you copy them 100%....
Aperture has the following feature " Export Version " This feature will save the trimmed version of the Movie WITHOUT re-compresing(Re-Encoding). It will save the trimmed version to WHATEVER codec the original file is.
So one can cut off start and ending and SAVE the H264 as an independent movie WITH NO RE-ENCODING. I have Tripple checked it.. Re-saved that timmed file 10 times (Meaning 10 Generations of re-saving).
Putting all 10 inside AE and comparing with difference Mattes yields a black background which means, if you composition background is black, that there is NO differences. IF Aperture would indeed re-encode the 10th generation
re-save of the H264 would look horrible, NOT SO.
Adobe, your Premiere Crew holds the opinioin that ABOVE (Saving an H264 without Re-Compressing) cannot be done without quality loss.) That is why the "Save Trimmed Version" in Premiere Pro does NOT save H264-Trimmed versions but the whole file.
They claim that the movie would loose quality as PPRO would to re-encode. That IS NOT SO. Aperture and Apple have been doing it for a while now.
I know that this is ADVANCED technology and it is difficult to figure out. But perhaps if your engineers cannot figure this one out, you could at least give LR4 Video Users the ability to export the trimmed movie to ProRes or other useful codecs.
Thanx for reading

99jon wrote:
Why not stick to Premiere Pro and set your in and out points there?
Using Lightroom simply adds to the workflow, with another stage of rendering.
I will always transcode.... Working with H264 is NOT an option for professional editing, Speedwise, it is TOOOOOO slow...
I need ProRes. If Lightroom could export to ProRes I could transcode ONLY the core´part of the clip and not the whole clip with extraneous beginnings and endings.
As of now, I'll just transcode everything coming off the FlashCard to prores. Then view it in the Finder. I would LOVE to copy the Flash card to the hard drive (Or import directly) then use LR4 as my Librarian GREAT FOR META DATA. Then transcode ONLY the part I need to ProRes...
Been doing this in Aperture, since V3 came out. And this is a VERY effiecient workflow. Premiere Pro iS NOT A LIBRARIAN where Lightroom is.
TO bad, adobes departments arent really communicatiung with each other. If LR4 developers would just have ONE meeting with the Premiere Pro department, adobe would gain ALL Premiere Pro users for Lightroom in the blink of an eye....
I could just export to DPX(LR4 does that) which I do every now and then, but ProRes is just as good and takes up 10x less HD space... So LR4 def. would benefit GREATLY from being able to export to ProRes.
Besides, LR4 USES Adobe Media Encoder and its presets to convert to DPX and etc... So WHY ON EARTH would adobe limit to DPX and H264... Lazyness ????

Aperture does not print

I am seeking help figuring out if the problem is with the Canon printer manager for a IPF6300 large format printer. The printer works fine using their Digital Photo Professional software. It is a networked connection and I know it has a valid ip address, and their setup software detected and installed the printer in the system preferences option for printers. It is set to default. What happens(actually in iphoto, preview, and Lightroom2) is the canon printer manager will pop up. The light blinks green on the printer for an instant, and then it is like the print spool job goes out to dev >null. In my exprience Canon will more than likely try to blame it on Apple software so I am attempting to validate any known issues between this printer and Aperture 3 trial.
Thanks

As an avid user of both Aperture and Sony cameras & lenses, I share your frustration. Just wait. Apple has been good about providing updates to their camera RAW converter. They haven't missed a Sony camera yet (afaik).
Enjoy the a77. .

Aperture - strange behavior with external editor

Although I don't do this often, there are times I need to edit images with a 3rd party editor like Elements or Pixelmator. I noticed when I send an image by Photos> Edit with Pixelmator, the image that comes in is lacking any edits I may have created previously, particularly with Nik filters. Obviously, those edited versions are not being exported to the editor correctly. However, if I first "export" the image, and then bring it in an editor, the edits are carry over as one would expect. I am using the latest versions of both Aperture and Lion.
Anyone else noticing this and is there a way to change this strange behavior?
Ken

Hi Perfectism-
Most likely it is a bad power supply brick. This can be difficult to troubleshoot as the drive appears to spin up and the little light blinks but that is about all you get.
If the drive is still under warranty contact LaCie about replacing the power supply brick.
Luck-
-DP

Aperture 3 stalls while importing photo folders

It appears that one of the latest updates for Aperture 3 now creates a situation where it just stops importing, even though it says it is still importing. The progress wheels stop moving and the hard drive stops blinking and it just sits there. This problem did not exist before one of the more recent updates. Yes, it does now import faster, but it is now unreliable. I now only import about 6 folders at a time because about every six or eight batches of folders I have to activate Quit Aperture, where it does not quit, and then I have to use option command escape to force quit. Then I reload and have to inspect to see if some of the folders need to be reinstalled. A pain in the butt. I would rather have a slower, more reliable folder import.

I suspect your Aperture Library needs repairing. If you force quit Aperture, the Aperture Library may be left in an inconsistent state, because Aperture cannot complete the current transactions.
Before you try to import again, run the Aperture Library First Aid tools, to repair (or rebuild if necessary) your Aperture library.
Aperture 3 User Manual: Repairing and Rebuilding Your Aperture Library
If Aperture frequently hangs, try to avaoid force quit - it is risky with database applications. Sometimes you can quit an application from the Terminal, if it is unresponsive, see my user tip here:
If Aperture is unresponsive, how to avoid force quitting?
Besides an inconsistent Aperture Library that needs repairing, you may have imported an image or video that cannnot be processed, because it is defective or has an incompatible format. Than Aperture will try over and over again to process that one image or video and hang. Then you need to isolate the one imort that is causing this.
Regards
Léonie

Export Issue - Aperture 3

Yesterday I finally upgraded to Snow Leopard (I know, it takes me a while to do such things). Once that was complete I upgraded from Aperture 2 to 3. Everything finished processing about 2 hours ago (no more spinning "gear"). I'm attempting to export a photo (as JPEG) to a folder within a folder on my desktop. Aperture's export dialogue sees the main folder but does not see any of the subfolders within it. (by the way, when I hit "cancel" export I get the spinning beach ball - Sometimes I have to "Force Quit" Aperture, sometimes the beach ball disappears in a couple minutes).
To test things further I chose "create a new folder" from within Aperture's export dialogue window. The folder I was originally attempting to export to is named "Claire", the new one for testing purposes is "ClaireNew". Interestingly enough, while typing the new folder's name I got a little message after typing C-l-a-i-r-e that a folder of that name already existed, yet Aperture still did not show the folder in the export dialogue. Finished typing the new folder's name and was able to successfully export photo as JPEG to the newly named folder (which took about an excruciating 4 minutes). I then attempted to export another photo to the same, newly created folder. THAT newly folder does not show up in Aperture's export dialogue even though I had just a few minutes before & "successfully" but very slowly exported to it.
I have quit and relaunched Aperture and also restarted my computer to see if this would help. It hasn't. Any ideas as to what may be going on, if anyone else is experiencing the same problem, and/or any possible solutions would be helpful. Also, I'm wondering it perhaps Snow Leopard might still be doing something with Spotlight (being that I just upgraded to it yesterday) that's causing the sub-folders on my Desktop not to show.

Seems like my system (either Aperture or Snow Leopard) was still processing information somewhere. After typing my above message I went back into Aperture and attempted to export a photo. HA!! Of course all folders on my Desktop as well as their sub-folders showed up. Export of JPEG took only a split second! Seriously, if I had blinked I would have missed it. Tried a couple other photos, everything worked great. Chose a shot to edit & then export. Editing tools are fantastic, but some brushes do unfortunately have a lag (at this time, anyway). Export of edited image to longer than non-edited image, but not anywhere near as long (4 minutes) as it was taking before.
I think I'll wait a day or two before posting anymore questions if I encounter any Aperture 3 "hiccups".

Crop tool marquee blinks

I am using PS CS5 on a Macaith snow leopard on a MacBook Pro with 4 GB ram. When I make a selection with the crop tool to crop an image the marquee blinks (flashes, pulses, etc.). I am usually running Aperture 3 and Mail behind it. Is this the way its suppode to work, a bug, or can I just not find the way to turn off the flashing?
Thanks,
Peter

Most likely something funny is going on with the OpenGL support.
You can try disabling OpenGL drawing in Photoshop's preferences, or quitting Aperture and see if those make the problem go away.

Aperture running great on G4 Powerbook.

So far Aperture runs without a blink. Seems fast to me. Just as fast as Fireworks 8 and faster than Photoshop. Uploaded all my iPhoto files without a problem.
All on my 1.67 G4 Powerbook.

Found out my biggest problem - operator error!!! When I imported my photos, about 200 of the 8000 were scans of old family photographs. Several years ago I scanned them in at a very high dpi and the resulting files were 40+megs each. This was choking Aperture.
Discovered the problem when I loaded Aperture on my friend's new 15" Mac Book Pro and it was terribly sluggish. Used the loop and the program came to a stand still. I began to suspect those files because they had taken a long time to import when I set up Aperture. Called Apple and they agreed the program was intended to handle digital camera files not scans like I had added. I deleted these scans, batch resized them through iPhoto to a size comparable to my digital photos and imported them back into Aperture. It ran like a champ on the 15" Mac Book Pro with only 1 gig of RAM. Moved this edited Aperture file to my PowerBook G4 with 1 gig of Ram and it is doing admirably. I look forward to getting a supercharged Mac Book Pro after Leopard comes out but for now I can wait patiently since I can use Aperture in the meantime on my PowerBook G4.

Speedlight 430ex ii on a 6D - aperture blinking!!???

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