Startup Failure.  Now complete death.

After my Dual 2GHz G5 froze and revved its fans all night as I slept, I tried powering it on the next morning after force quitting, but it wouldn't get past the "Starting Mac OSX" screen. The progress bar slowly crawled to completion, and continued spinning, and then nothing. It just wouldn't boot. The night prior I had attempted installing the latest security update and failed twice.
When tampering with the unit, removing a third-party firewire card that had preventing the G5 from sleeping for several months and had caused me to shut it down every time I was done with it - the G5 would ALWAYS freeze completely and go into "overdrive" mode where the fans went nuts whenever I left it unattended - I dropped the screw securing the firewire card into the G5 fan assembly at the rear of the unit.
In an effort to remove the screw, I attempted removing the fan assembly, assuming it would come as freely as the one in front of the processors. It didn't, and I think that my tugging at the wire attaching it to the steel divider might have suffered damage.
Now the unit's light, when plugged in, will immediately come on, without me trying to power it up. Then, if I press the power button, nothing happens.
I tried securing all components again and making sure everything was in its place. Still no luck. Did I kill this already problematic G5 that I love so much?

If you have retrieved all the foreign objects and checked all the connections as best you can in the area that saw the fiercest fighting - you could try the old faithful PMU reset
Disconnect all non-essential peripherals leaving just display, keyboard and mouse; unplug from the mains and leave for at least 30 mins; re-connect mains plug to G5(to earth the casing), then reset the PMU
http://macosg.com/group/viewtopic.php?t=5819&highlight=resetting+pmu
Note static precautions and the warning to press the button once only.
[you have to rotate the photo through 90 deg clockwise mentally - or lean your head to the left as you look at it...]
Does the PSU relay, low-down at the back of the G5, click when mains power is connected?
You have read all the things that were tried in the other post. But if the power light is on all the time, and the power button doesn't work... it sounds like AppleCare.

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    Hi all. hoping some of you can offer some advice.
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    Amanda: If you are able to start the PB up in any way at all without a bootable CD or DVD inserted or a bootable external drive connected, then your hard drive isn't completely dead yet, and your OS isn't entirely hosed.
    Starting up from a CD or DVD always produces lots of noises that the hard drive doesn't — those are normal for an optical drive. If you hear lots of unfamiliar noises when starting up from the internal hard drive (in Safe Mode, for example), or if you aren't able to start up from the hard drive at all, then the HD is either on the brink of total failure or already dead.
    There are so many drives on the market today, and they are so similar and, in most cases, so inexpensive compared to two or three years ago, that it's very hard to recommend one in particular. Your original-equipment drive was 5400 RPM, and you'll want to replace it with a 5400 or 7200 RPM unit. Drives are currently available in sizes up to 160GB, and your last-generation Aluminum Powerbook can use any of the available sizes. Best current bang-for-the-buck deals are in the 80-120GB range; you still pay a considerable premium for a 160. The larger the drive's cache and the higher its rotational speed, the quicker it will be. A 7200 RPM drive will be slightly noisier and use slightly more energy than a 5400, but the differences are remarkably small.
    Assuming you're in the USA, good places to survey the marketplace for new 2.5" ATA-6 (ATA 100) laptop hard drives are ZipZoomFly, NewEgg, and OWC.
    People have widely disparate preferences between the offerings of different manufacturers. I've had good luck with IBM/Hitachi and Fujitsu drives, and bad luck with Western Digital. Your mileage may vary, as they say. Good luck!

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    Hi guys,
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    Almost immediately, the iBook began exhibiting a major problem, specifically that I'd be typing away, and suddenly the display would go black.
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    It seemed to be an intermittent problem.
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    By chance, I discovered that if I gave the iBook a shake, the display would come back on.
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    And then it would go black after a second or two.
    And then with another shake, it would come back on, sometimes for a couple of hours at a time.
    So I figured that it must be a cable which, during the installation of the logic board, and/or the new display, wasn't seated correctly by the technician.
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    They said that because I had reported the issue beyond 90 days since the logic board had been replaced, it was no longer Apple's problem.
    I explained to Apple that I hadn't used the iBook for six months, because I had a MacBook.
    After much badgering, Apple has agreed to replace the logic board if it's faulty.
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    I presume that an iBook has a fan ?
    Please confirm.
    Therefore, another loose cable ?
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    And/or duff fan ?
    And/or duff cabling by the technician ?
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    With thanks and best wishes,
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    Hi S,
    Many thanks for your helpful and swift response.
    I agree with you regarding the likelihood that these problems would have surfaced immediately during normal usage, regardless of how much or little time had passed since the repair.
    As advised, I will inform Apple Customer Relations UK about the new developments.
    Indeed, when I resubmit the iBook, I'll include a print-out of this discussion.
    I agree with you about the fan.
    Prior to the failure of the first logic board, I ran that iBook for YEARS, without noticing any heat issue.
    Indeed, if there had been such incredible heat, then I'd have searched these discussion boards, and reported it to Apple HQ.
    Therefore, the astonishing heat is definitely a new development since the "repair."
    Consequently, I take on board your comments about the lack of a working fan since the "repair", which I shall also mention to Apple HQ.
    As for running the Apple Hardware Test, the unit is completely dead.
    The power cable is green, but the unit is now completely silent and black.
    I also note your suggestions regarding the cable which connects the display to the rest of the unit, which I shall also mention to Apple HQ.
    No repair sheet was ever given to me by the Apple Repair Centre (ARC).
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    However, Apple HQ can see on their screen that the logic board and display were both replaced for new by the ARC.
    What else was and wasn't done by the ARC is a mystery.
    I'll phone the ARC and ask for copies of any and all paperwork, so that I can submit it all to Apple HQ, which I note is your recommended option, rather than returning the unit to the ARC.
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    If I understand Apple HQ correctly, they're now saying that all other hardware and labor costs will be mine.
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    Thank you again for all your kind and wise advice.
    With best wishes,
    Michael
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