'Title Safe' and 'Action Safe' boundaries

I assume that the 'Title Safe' area is the boundaries where the Title should not exceed, and that the Action Safe' area is a boundary that the action should not exceed. However, does this mean that nothing will show beyond those boundaries, or that you might run the risk of cutoff if they are exceeded?
Thanks!

Hi(Bonjour)!
All material that is outside the action safe zone cannot be viewed on a TV set, but will be seen on a computer screen.
+Broadcast monitors+ are designed to display this area too.
Try your camcorder by frame the action very close the edges and look the clip in viewer. You should see the extra area. Some pro camcorders do offer an showing overscan feature to monitor this area upon shooting.
Michel Boissonneault

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Basic Title safe and action safe zones questions

1.) Why is it that a title needs to be within the inner square, otherwise it may not display on a TV, though action can still take place in the outer square outside the title safe zone and it is still fine?
2.) Do these zones apply to CRT televisions, LCD, Plasmas, and video intended for being displayed through a projector the same way?
Thanks.

1. Safe area and safe title were developed many years ago, back when folks had TV sets with rounded corners. There was a real risk that a title would not be displayed in full if it went outside the boundary.
Pictures are interpretated differently to text. If say, someones left shoulder and arm are out of picture, it is obvious what is missing. An incomplete title can easily be misunderstood or not understood at all.
2. Unless you have absolute control over the device which will be displaying your movie, apply the rules to everything.

Title Safe Area and Action Safe Area

I understand the recomandations about the Title Safe Area and Action Safe Area (PDF p215).
I am wondering if this is still acurate today, considering many people in the U.S have widescreen TVs. I`m just wondering if anybody still have a TV that only shows the Title safe area?
Also, on a Widescreen TV, is there any chance to have only the Action safe area?
Thanks.

I very much doubt anyone has a TV that only displays title safe area and nothing outside of it... the Title Safe area is a percentage reduction from the outer edge of the image. If a TV is showing in the 4:3 aspect ratio, any image will be sized appropriately to fit, and the title safe will be proportional... 10% in from the outer edge.
The title safe area originally existed to allow for text to be showing without too much distortion on a curved TV screen. The Action safe area simply extended beyond this to the edge of the screen, and is 5% in from the edge of the footage.
In the days of CRT sets, the glass screen has a plastic bezel which masks the very edge of the screen, meaning the image disappears neatly behind it. Action safe areas are just those that will appear beyond the bezel and be visible, but which might distort sightly due to the curvature of the glass.
On a computer screen the entire image is seen regardless, as the geometry of the screen is adjusted to appear within the entire display, and so AS and TS areas don't really apply.
Whether or not your screen is widescreen doesn't matter, it's all about pixel aspect ratios. The image is displayed proportionately, and the visible areas are the same from screen to screen. When setting up photoshop images with guides to show AS and TS, you'll find that the TV image is 720px wide, and the guides are set at 36px from the left and right for the AS, and 72px in for the TS. The vertical size differs between NTSC and PAL, and thus the guides are positioned differently, but still 5 and 10% respectively.

Title and Action Safe guides

Hi,
I am finally at the stage where we are going to start shooting some footage and testing our compositions on our project. My next big step, is to get my head around Action/Title safe areas. We are shooting for 16:9 widescreen, HD TV, but am i supposed to take the smaller standard TV screens into account? Keeping in mind that I am very new at this, I am getting confused between the zones and guides on AE. I see the centre-cut guides (for the smaller TV screens I guess) and then the normal guides for widescreen. If I compose all my shots for the standard TV screen, that means I will need to make up a lot of wasted space around them for the widescreen TV.
Once again, I know this is an AE forum, but I am using the excuse that AE has the guides, and thats what I am trying to understand! :-)
Any suggestions would be appreciated, or even some links to external forums or sites?
Thanks guys.
Pierre

Thank you for the reply.
Ill aim for the widescreen safety as you suggest. I have taken several shots of the characters now, using different lighting styles etc. Next week will be dedicated to Keylight. I am quite familiar with it, but want to get really really deeply involved. I am going to spend some time with multi passes and different tests.
Soon, (hopefully) I will be able to tell you all where to check out our work! :-)
Thanks again for the feedback.
Pierre

Firefox will not let me get on any websites (safe AND not safe), claiming that it "may pose a security threat to your system"; when I try to choose the "proceed unprotected" option, it won't let me.

My computer's anti-virus software recently expired. A few days later, I went to download a new anti-virus software . . . when I opened up Firefox, I received a warning that claimed Firefox was infected with "Trojan-BNK.Win32.Keylogger.gen", and gave me two options: "Activate XP Security 2011 (recommended)" (this was a $60 charge and required credit card info) or "Continue unprotected (Dangerous)"
Since I needed to install new anti-virus, I figured I would continue unprotected, download my new software quickly, and remove the virus. But when Firefox opened, it gave me a message saying: "Firefox alert. Visiting this site may pose a security threat to your system!". Gave me three options:
1. "Get a copy of 'XP Security 2011' to safeguard your PC while surfing the web (RECOMMENDED)"
2. "Run a spyware, virus and malware scan" (I already did this)
3. "Continue surfing without any security measures (DANGEROUS)"
I tried clicking on different links, but the same warning kept showing up, even on verified and safe sites. I tried to choose the third option so that I could download my anti-virus software quickly, but nothing happened when I clicked on it - the page reloads and the warning shows up again.
My computer is still without anti-virus software because Firefox will not let me surf the internet. Please help!

It sounds as though your PC is infected with fake antivirus software. The detailed cleanup instructions vary depending on which fake AV you have. However, as a first step, try this:
Download the following on a different PC, copy them to a USB flash drive or CD, and then run them on the infected PC:
Malwarebytes Anti-malware : http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php
SUPERAntiSpyware : http://www.superantispyware.com/
Hopefully these will get you back online safely. If not, search for clean-up instructions for the specific malware.

Safe Title and Action Areas ...screwy set up!

Does Adobe Premiere have the Safe Title and Action Areas set up ...backwards? (i.e screwy)
I am resetting the areas according to latest Broadcast specs ( New Zealand) issued by BC Authority. '2012 Commercial Production Standard'
Quote from Spec sheets
High Definition (1920 x1080) with 4:3 Graphics safe and 14:9 Action Safe areas
14:9 Action Safe = 80% of 16:9 Width . 93% of Height
4:3 Graphics Safe = 65% of 16:9 Width . 90% of Height
So one reads that as: area covering 80% width and 93% height (and respectively area covering 65% width and 90% height)
(Area is the operative word as in Safe Area)
If these figures are entered into Premiere Project Set up..they display small areas. Inverse size.
Not areas proportional to the figures describingthe area. eg 80, 90 and 93% are certainly closer to 100% ( the whole area)
So what gives here?
FWIW: In the past I have used the 20, 20 and 10, 10 set up ..without actually thinking why it was done this way!
Out of interest : anyone got access to these specs for BBC or U.S stations. How are they described?
Here is how Wiki describes the safe area
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overscan

Thanx for posting that.
BTW: See Page 11 for the way BBC prescribe setup for Safe action Area.
Like NZ BC..it describes the inclusive safe area. Not like Premieres (screwy excluded area setup)
14:9 Caption safe
70% of Active Width
90% of Active Height
289 – 1632
55 – 1026
48 to 532 (F1) and 611 to 1095 (F2)
Be keen to see some U.S Specs

Is there a quick way to fit everything in the Title/Action Safe Areas ?

Hi,
(sorry in advance for my english, I'm a french canadian)
I built a complete DVD without realizing that I should consider the "Safe Areas" (see my first post : "Formatting in 4:3 but image is still stretched on a 4:3 TV. What the... ?"), so now I'm stuck with a 12 hours project that show only some part on TV.
Something strange too is that I first thought what was shown corresponded to the "Action Safe Area", but I just realized that both sides are cut like the "Title Safe Area" and top/bottom are cut like the "Action Safe Area". It's not one or the other, it's a mix of both. What causes that ?
What I need to know now is if there is a way to compress all the DVD or make everything to fit quickly in the viewable area so I will not have to fit everything one by one.
Thanks for your help.
P.S.
The 4:3 simulation mode should specifiate the overscanning process in the application when we use it, so it would solve a lot of problem in the first place.

http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=9695813#9695813
x

Viewing Title/Action Safe on Digital Cinema Desktop Preview

I am using DCD Preview to view playback from FCP on my MacBook pro on an external 23" Cinema Display. I like the feature, but I am curious if and how do you get the title/action safe feature from the canvas to show on the monitor. Also, can you view the viewer clips on the external monitor using DCDP? Couldn't seem to make it work.
I am an old Avid editor making a switchover and being able to playback this way is nice, but I can't show clients where things would hit on screen. I will be using a broadcast monitor in the studio, but I'd like to be able to take a DVI monitor with me for this portable system because of weight and size.
Thanks in advance,
Eddie

I don't think you can view title/action safe with DCDP. You should be able to view clips in the viewer with DCDP, at least it works for me. I suppose if you're dealing with some sort of nonstandard format that requires rendering, it might be a problem, but I just tried it with some DV material and it works fine.
Here's how I access DCDP: Make sure that video playback is set to DCDP in the view menu. Make the canvas (or viewer) active and hit command (apple) F12.

Action safe...

Hello -
I am editing a dance project in Final Cut Studio - I have the title/action safe on, and notice that some of the dancers dance right outside of the lines. When I compressed to a Quicktime video, it shows the exact same thing that my project in FCP is showing, meaning that all of the dancers are seen. My question is, those dancers that are outside of the lines get cut out when burning to DVD? They don't seem to be getting cut out on the Quicktime video. Ok, thank you!

Kristina--
Do a search on this forum dealing with TV safe area. A lot of good information.
Basically...If pertinent action falls "outside the lines" (certain dancers in your case), there is the possibility that on certain TV's your dancers may be cut off. By keeping action "inside" the lines you basically insure that everything will show up on all TV's.
T.

Action Safe Area

Hello,
I'm a "newbie" who is very eager to learn everthing I can about post-production using Final Cut Studio . . . I was going to reply to an archived post but not sure if anyone would stil be viewing that topic. Sorry if this is a well weathered question!
I've inversted in Apple Pro Training Text Books; Final Cut Pro 5; Soundtrack; Soundtrack Pro; Motion and DVD Studio Pro 4.
I'd like to learn as much as possible for myself, however any help from anybody would be appreciated.
Creating my project in FCP > Exporting to Quicktime > then Authoring in DVDSP.
Viewing in the simulator is exactly what I'm after!!
When I burn the project and play though the set top DVD player the images are cropped. I researched the issue on this forum and found posts explaining that the signal received by the TV was not the entire signal and that it was the TV that was the issue (I could be wrong, but that's the way it read to me) . . . I tested this theory by conecting my Powerbook to a projector via S-Video and selected - Digital Cinema Desktop Preview in the Simulator Preferences in DVDSP. Then I conected both the Yamaha DVD player (1 Year old) and the Pioneer DVD player (5 years old) and toggled between them to find out if my project would be successfully transmitted from both the laptop and a burnt DVD.
The result has lead me to believe the signal was not sent properly from the DVD players as both DVD players produced cropped results even though I was using a projector. The signal sent from the laptop was %100 and what I'd like to achieve from my DVD players. Weather in be a CRT, Plasma or Projector.
Are there any ways to compensate for the cropping eg: measurements or methods?
Hope this all makes sense.
Thanking you - JayMac

Welcome to the forums, JayMac.
The title of your message, "Action Safe Area," leads me to believe you've read about your action-safe and title-safe borders, and that you realize that all TVs "overscan" images. It might not be ideal, but they all do it, and you need to adjust for it. That's why Final Cut, Motion, and DVD Studio Pro all include the option of displaying "action safe" and "title safe" borders. Going past those borders will risk images getting cut off on a TV set due to overscan.
Your test with the video output from a PowerBook was not a valid test, unfortunately. If I hook my PowerBook to a TV set, I absolutely need the entire screen to display on the set, particularly the top of the screen--otherwise I wouldn't be able to see the menu bar to make selections. Therefore, computers with TV-out are designed to compensate for overscan, so that the entire desktop is visible.
The bottom line is that every TV overscans, and every TV overscans by a different amount. By using your active-safe and title-safe borders, you'll be assured that those parts of your video or menu will be visible. This is the best way of handling things, rather than trying to "fight the power" and somehow compensate for overscan.

Is there actually any computer cleaning software for Mac that is safe and works?

Is there actually any cleaning software for IMac that issafe and works. Have an early 2008 iMac, have up-graded RAM to 6GB.

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Beware of malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X used to be so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device should not be a focus of your attention. It should be an almost invisible tool by means of which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Action Safe on Wide Screen TVs

I'm editing a commercial for broadcast (shot in 4:3), and am concerned about some elements on the far right side of the screen (specifically, I don't want them to be seen). They fall safely outside the action safe window, so I'm not too concerned about someone watching on a regular television. But will someone watching on a wide screen TV see material on the right and left side outside of the action safe window for a 4:3 shot?
Thanks.

Wow, I discover something new everyday. In the broadcast biz, I thought 'Action Safe' meant meeting someone other than your significant other in a hotel more than 200 miles from your house.
The things you learn hanging around here!
cheerios,
x

Title and action borders...

Hello - I have noticed that when I keep photos within the 'action safe' border, they appear to go 'off the screen' on my tv, when I connect the computer, and view the project. Is this because of the size of my tv - not sure of the exact measurements, but it is on the 'small side'... But, as I said, I do keep within the borders, so will it be dependent on what someone else's tv will be like, to see if they will be able to view the entire photo? This is especially prevalent when I add borders to the photos - I would like it if all 4 sides can be seen, rather than having one side cut off - ok, thanks so much!

That's exactly why I view final output on a small tube tv. My set seems to take me to just inside action safe. Rule of thumb...if you can see and hear it on a bad set you're probably okay overall. You should always output to a monitor anyway so you know what your final product is likely to be.
Remember as well that all sets vary. Even inside of a editing suite monitors vary. That's why waveform/vector scopes are used. These tell you true video, black and chroma levels rather than trusting your eye.
It used to drive me crazy when client said, "I like the color "red" on the right hand monitor. Can I have that color red?" So I said that yes of course they could. No use explaining that all monitors vary.

Project built without Action Safe Zone in Mind - help??

hello -
I am working with DVD Studio Pro for the first time and am having to take a project that was built in Final Cut for the web and burning it to DVD-Video in a 4:3 format.
The problem that I am having is that the project was built without Action Safe Zone in Mind and is getting cut off on the TV screen. Is there an easy way to just shrink the whole project in DVD Studio or FCP without having to touch the timeline?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

You could create a new sequence in FCP, then put the original sequence into that new sequence. Control-click the video track in the new sequence, open the motion tab, and re-scale the entire sequence.

The latest answer from you to me is that my photos are safe and that I should look in a default folder. I have tried to do this but cannot find it. How do I find the default folder.

I received your emai stating that my photos are safe and are present in the folder on your computer that you specified when importing them. If you used Photoshop Album Starter Edition to import your files from the camera without changing the default folder, look in this folder. I have tried looking in the default folder and there is nothing there to help. Some of these photos were scanned in from my Cannon Printer. Surely if Adobe are requesting me to register and telling me they will send me a code no. that is all that needs to be done.

Mann8 wrote:
How to communicate with Adobe office more direct? I do not want to enter into forum. Are you telling me Elements user not qualify for better services from Adobe?
Why you relied to my questions partially only? Selective to questions? Or?????
I repeat my previous questions that you ignored:
How to compare Elements to CS5 or 6?
Can I upgrade from Elements to CS?
Is Elements 13 comes in DVD format?
I'm interested in upgrading my Elements 10 to????
Your advise please?
I'm so sorry, but in today's world, the support of low cost products through personal contact has become very uncommon. It simply does not pay to sell a product for $50 or $100 and then pay people to sit in cubicles to talk on the phone that may cost $50 or $100 an hour.
That said, I'll try to help for free!
CS5, CS5.5 and CS6 are products from the past that, as far as I know are not being updated or maintained. Adobe has replaced them with the "Creative Cloud" or "CC". So, if you want a current version of "Premier CC", you "rent" it for $20 a month. For $50 a month, you can rent everything Adobe makes for photogrphers, videographers, designers and graphic artists.
If "upgrade" means "get a cheaper price", no.
The easiest way to buy the DVD version of Elements 13 is to order it from a major retailer like B&H Photo or Amazon. I've checked and both have it. The cheapest way to buy it is to wait for holiday season pricing.

'Title Safe' and 'Action Safe' boundaries

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