Toshiba P10-504 Motherboard Failure

I recently had a major problem with my Toshiba P10-504. I have no idea how it happened but according to the people at Toshiba who are fixing it the motherboard has failed. This meant that when attempting to power up all I got was the blue light and the sound of the fan and possibly the HD whizzing round and no display at all. The cost of fixing it has been quoted at about 450 and it will take a couple of weeks. As you can imagine I never want to run into this problem again and would really like to understand how it happened. Any information would be great. To help heres a list of everything I did and didnt do before it crashed that may be relevant:
Before the crash
1) Installed a new memory module: 1GB DDR333 SODIM (pqi brand?) - I installed the module a week before the system failed and it was running fine. Im obviously worried about re-installing the module when the laptop is returned (advice?).
One the day of the crash
1) Set processor scheduling to background services To increase the performance for audio software
2) Turned of all the power schemes and hibernation modes Always found these annoying
3) Fixed the swap file for the virtual memory to about 1.2GB Just experimenting with different performance settings, although that was probably a bit excessive.
4) After doing the above three things I simply shut the lid, no applications were running and the system had not yet been shut down and was running off batteries. Thats the last time it worked.
The laptop had not experienced any physical damage.
Thanks for reading through all that - hope Im making sense. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Chris.

Hi Chris
Looking at the list of things you done I cannot see anything that would damage the computer.
Installing hardware (memories, PC Cards and so on) are always a 'risk', but as long as you keep to the standards and use your head instead of force you should be pretty safe.
Since the memory had been running in your machine for a week it seems very unlikely that it can be the cause of the problem.
My very long experience with notebook hardware service tells me that I in but a very few cases have seen software damaging hardware. In theory it is possible, but in real life - it's the last possibility on my list anyway.
Stuff in the computer breaks most of the time for no visilible reason - means that it does not break because of misuse, bad handling or bad software. It just breaks.
Looking into the number of 'parts' 1 computer have inside (not counting just Motherboard, memory, harddisk and so on but counting connectors, transistors in the big chips, solderings on the big chips and so on) I (my personal point of view) feel sometimes that it is good fortune that they don't break.
So to answer your question: just take normal care of your computer, stick to hardware-options that are manufactured for your computer (prefer Toshiba originals) and you've done your part of the deal :)
BR
Tom

Similar Messages

Toshiba P10 504 Not booting!!

After running my P10 at about 80% battery power and shutting the lid (which would usually have no effect as Ive turned all hibernation modes and power saving off) it broke :( Now when I power up the blue light goes on and the fan goes and the HD or DVD drive starts making various noises. But, there is no display at all and it wont respond to any keys including the function key to attempt to change the monitor mode. Any help would be appreciated but Im guessing Ill have to send it away.
Chris.

Hi,
you can try to connect an external monitor to VGA out and look if you will get a signal.
Otherwise you can start it, wait some minutes, press ALT - CTRL - DEL and type in your login password. Then ENTER and look if you can see the notebook in your network with another PC! Then the VGA card or TFT is broken.
Normally you can say that a Toshba notebook without a signal on TFT has a broken hardware device! Then you have to contact a Toshiba Service Partner!
Bye

P10 504 will not charge and will not operate from mains

hi
I'm having difficulties with my P10-504. I plug my charger in the back of the unit and nothing happens. No lights come on at the front and no charging or powering of the notebook.
I have some charge left in the battery and it shows that the computer is operating from battery power (discharging) and not AC power.
I have checked to make sure that the charger is operational with a volt meter and it seems to be fine.
Can any one offer a soloution for me?
Thanks
Adam

Hi there
What's the ASP?
I've had a similar problem before, somehow the prong in the power clug snapped off in the charging cable and so the computer would only charge if the cable was held in place.
I sent my computer to Toshiba who fixed the problem, replacing the motherboard I believe.
I now have the problem that the cable and socket appears to be fine yet the computer will not charge.
If I hold the cable in a certian position the light flicks on. If I find that position and leave it there within seconds the lights go out and will not come back on.

Satellite P10-504 WXP driver for video, modem and SM bus controller

I have just had to replace the hard disk in my P10-504 and I now have lots of problems!
1 - I used the retore disks and XP home is installed BUT the video, modem and SM bus controller all all flagged in Control Panel and not having drivers installed! The modem I can live without but I would like the video to work properly and the SM bus controller is also pretty essentil. Guess what, I can't
a) find my model listed on the Toshiba website and
b) I can't find drivers for either the video or SM bus controller.
I have downloaded the 'universal' Nvidia driver but it doesn't work! As for the SM bus controller, I've no idea where to look!
Any ideas please?
Thanks
Tim

Hi
Your posting is a little surprise because all XP drivers for your notebook must be available on the Toshiba driver page.
Did you choose the right notebook series and did you download and install all necessary drivers???
As first its important to install the chipset utility and depending on installed graphic card
You have to choose and to install the right display driver!
Again! The drivers are on the page!
http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com -> Support & Downloads -> Support page -> driver download

How can I reinstall Office 2003, factory installed on my Sat P10-504?

Hi,
Somehow I have removed Microsoft Office 2003 and all of it's contents which were factory installed on my Satellite P10-504. Does anyone know how i can reinstall Microsoft Office 2003 Suite? I have 2 product recovery disks and 1 tools and utilities disk but cannot find the programe on them.
Cheers
Martin.

Hi,
if Office 2003 is not on your Tools & Utilities CD, then it was not factory installed.
By the way I have never seen a Toshiba product with Office installed.
Bye

Toshiba P10-304 crashing, hdd problems?

Hi All,
I have a Toshiba P10-304 and its recently been going a bit mental.
I am running XP Pro and basically it first started crashing frequently and then later it came up with the error : media test failure, check connection , etc. As a result, I figured the hard drive had died. Since then I have bought a new hard drive (seagate momentus) and it formatted fine and was working well for 2 days. But now on the 3rd day, it has started to display similar symptoms as my old oem toshiba drive. It tends to crash frequently, the hard drive continues to make a horrible ticking noise even with the system has crashed. It also for the first time displayed the same 'media test failure..' error messages but then on reboot booted fine, but only to crash again about 5 minutes later.
Ive just finished university and am doing a spot of web design and its really annoying me so I would appreciate any help.
Cheers,
Idnan

Hi,
it can be that the IDE controller is defective, this explaines why the new HDD have also problems!
The only thing you can do is contacting a Serivce Partner for a checkup!
bye

Satellite P10-504: continuous beeps when it is turned on

My P10-504 emits continuous beeps soon after it is turned on. It will stop beeping and reboot itself but go back to the continuous beeps. The way to get it to boot is to hit F2 and go into BIOS and then exit, then it will boot up OK.
I have depressed the keys when booting up to see if it might be sticky keys, but that has no effect.
If I take the all the memory out when it boots up it beeps to tell me I have no memory. If only one bank is in the continuous beeps return.
The one then it tends to do in Windows is to automatically bring up the search tool and constantly refreshes the screen unless esc is hit.
Any ideas or other tests to do??

Hi,
I don't know where the problem is, but maybe you should try reinstalling the BIOS.
If it doesn't help please contact the ASP in your country.
Bye

Motherboard failure: license redemption and changing OS?

Hi,
I own the CS6 Premium Production package -- I am a student -- which I purchased in September 2012. I have it installed on a MacBook Pro running OSX 10.6.8. Unfortunately I have recurrent problems with my computer: the motherboard crashed twice in late 2012 and early 2013 -- I already contacted Adobe Support at the time because the softwares were considered to be still installed on "another computer" due to the change of motherboard and this issue was solved very quickly -- and I am currently encountering what seems to be the same motherboard failure.
For now I haven't repaired my MacBook yet and I don't need -- yet -- troobleshooting concerning the licenses but I can't boot it anymore, which means I cannot cancel the license of my Adobe softwares. As it will probably be the motherboard again (same symptoms) I would like to know before handling my computer to Apple if it will be possible to cancel, again, my previous install on this almost-dead motherboard once it is replaced.
Second question, because I am a bit fed up with this expensive Mac issue, I am considering going back to Windows but I feel trapped for my also expensive Adobe softwares are Mac-only: what are my options? Is there any chance to do that for free since I would obviously exchange Mac for Windows and not be using both? Being a student, are there any additional options?
Best regards,

Thank you for your reply. I tried the chat earlier but for some reason it wasn't working... I'll give it another try now.
I took a look at the form to fill out for changing OS, I don't find the name corresponding to my boxset (here is what it looks like). Is it under a different name than "CS6 Production Premium"?
EDIT: no, I am still getting a "Chat is unavailable right now" message after submitting my question. What is strange is that it seemed to work for a few seconds since I first got a message "You're now chatting with <firstname>"...

TouchSmart tx2 motherboard failure

Hi,
Hoping someone can point me in a direction.. Turned my laptop on the other day and got nothing.. NUM lock and CAPS lock blink once... Yay motherboard failure!
It's well beyond warranty at this point, so I'm at a loss.. Do I attempt to replace it myself? If so is there a better place to get the part? is it worth it? Safer to bring it somewhere and have them do it? Risk of hard drive loss?
The internet suggests I remove the motherboard and throw it in the oven (325 for 8 minutes) thoughts? will a blow dryer (for shrink wrap, not hair.. more powerful) solve issue? (at least temporarily so I can run a backup that's not a week old?)
Really frustrating...
HP Touchsmart tx2 FR239AV running Windows 7 64 bit.
Thanks,
Joe

Okay, I have the fix for this and it is very inexpensive, but takes some minimal work. This same problem you all have described and I have found on many other forums happened to me 1.5 years into ownership; the screen did nothing, the num and caps lock lights flashed, and the PC otherwise acted like it was on (though the fan did not always run). The first time it happened--1.5 years into ownership--I checked around with some geeks and everyone thought it was the motherboard. I sent it back to HP because I had purchased an extended warranty and they said they had to replace the cpu. Almost exactly 1.5 years later, the same problem happened again; this time I had no warranty so I assumed it was the cpu again. I installed a new cpu and it did nothing to correct the problem. I, then, noticed that my GPU and Southbridge were after-market additions or, at least, re-solders (it is very clear that they were not original because the repair person had applied a red glue to keep them in place and the fellow I speak of below confirmed that the repairs were post-purchase). Since I purchased the computer new from HP and I knew that the only time the PC had been opened was by HP's repair department, this means HP's repair letter was incorrect when it stated they just replaced the CPU, because they actually did major work to my motherboard by replacing the GPU and Southbridge. I also researced online and found that the likely culprit was actually the Gpu, not the Cpu; others are catching on to this problem.
I asked my neighbor, whose business is hardware repair on PCs, servers, etc. He said that these AMDs were notorious for overheating (which I've always known) and he enlightened me on what happens when they overheat. THEY DO NOT BURN OUT. They just rise up off of the motherboard and come unsoldered from the motherboard. "That's great, but what can you do about it," I said. "Do I have to replace my motherboard when I almost certainly have 100% quality parts that just aren't connected to one another." He said "no" and educated me quite a bit further. The hair dryer thing can work, but these motherboard repair guys have an infrared heat gun to do the repair. He took my motherboard, wrapped it in aluminum foil, and shot BOTH MY SOUTHBRIDGE AND MY GPU (seperately) at around 150-200 degrees celcius, then pressed down on them until they cooled. Apparently, this works most of the time. The only exceptions would be if the GPU or Southbridge has risen so much that the connections touch one another and short out or the GPU/Southbridge did, in fact, burn out. Neither of these happen very often, though. A few notes on this repair: remove the CPU and clock battery from the motherboard before doing any heating and cover the other parts of the motherboard. The Southbridge is a processor that, on the tx2, is on the opposite side of the motherboard from the CPU/GPU. When assembled, it is just under the palm rest for the right hand (just to the right of the mousepad). It says "Southbridge" on it, but you might need magnification to read it. It has no heatsink, fan, or other heat dissipation mechanism. You should have both the Southbridge and the GPU shot with the heat and pushed down because the problem can be either one. You might be able to tell which one is the cause of the problem because you'll be able to see little metal beads under them if they have risen up.
But, that's not then end of the story. This reheat and press down repair worked for only a couple of weeks before the black screen problem happened again. My neighbor had indicated that, if it happened again, I should alter my heatsink and find a way to keep pressure on the GPU and Southbridge to keep them from rising and coming disconnected. Therefore, this 3rd time (once repaired by HP and the second and third by my neighbor) I put a little extra work into the reinstallation of the motherboard and took my neighbor's advice. One big problem you'll find is that the heatsink over them GPU has a piece of metal that is not copper, like the rest of the heatsink. In addition to that, that piece of metal does not even touch the GPU and HP just put a "cooling pad" between the two. Essentially, someone failed in the original design of the heatsink or the design of the motherboard because the GPU and CPU are not anywhere close to level with one another. The CPU is much taller, but the heatsink is level. To correct this, HP could have easily measured the distance and added a copper piece to the copper heatsink. Instead, they added some inferior alloy and a piece of fabric. Both likely conduct heat okay, but not nearly like copper and, because of the fabric pad, they don't put pressure on the GPU. The best fix for this would be to replace the non-copper piece, but I didn't want to bend the heatsink and not have it level (it needs good contact with the GPU). Therefore, I got a piece of flat copper from my neighbor, doubled it over, and used that in place of the fabric "cooling pad." I, of course, put Arctic Ice between all of the pieces. Arctic Ice is a silver compound that should always be used between pieces that are to conduct heat; it connects them. You can't let your copper pieces touch the resistors/transistors on the top of the GPU/CPU/Southbridge, or your short them out, so be careful.
For the Southbridge, since there is no heat conductor on it, but there is a metal heat shield on the underside of the wrist-rest, you can get some copper or take an old penny (you need a pre-1980s one for it to be copper) and bend it in half and in half again, so it is the general shape of a piece of pie. This could also be done for the copper needed for between the GPU and heatsink. After each fold, hammer it very well. This can be done with a minimal amount of tools: two pairs of pliers and a hammer. Grab the penny from opposite ends with the two pairs of pliers (with a little space between the noses of the pliers) and bend it as far as you can before the pliers touch. Then, keep the penny in one pair of pliers and beat the penny with the pliers as far as you can like that. Then, grab the folded penny with the pliers and squeeze it until the fold is flat. Then beat the penny until it is completely flat. Then do the whole process over again to make the penny 4 pennies thick. However, make sure to beat the penny enough between folds to where it is really just about 3 pennies thick. That way, it should be just thick enough to touch both the wrist-wrest and the Southbridge. Put the Arctic Ice between the Southbridge and the folded penny and maybe between the metal on the wrist-wrest and the penny.
I have done most of the above. I can't say that I've done the penny trick and you'll note that I wrote it as a hypothetical instruction, as I would never deface money. What I have done above has worked so far and the GPU and Southbridge are cooler and hopefully there is pressure on them so that they will not rise off the board and cause the problem again. Because the GPU is cooler, the CPU is also cooler.
I wrote this post on my repaired tx2!
As evidence that this works, search ebay and the internet generally for this motherboard (HP 504466-001) and see what you find. You'll find a lot of suppliers that want you to send them your old motherboard when they send you a REFURBISHED ONE. You'll also not that you can pay different prices for different lenghts of warrantly. It seems that these companies likely only use the heat method explained above (one even has a photo of their heat device) and they just constantly resell the same motherboards. It is a great idea because it is such little work to get it back in working order. Remember, though, if you buy one of these to somehow put some solid pressure on the GPU and Southbridge or you'll just be buying a new board again.
Another thought to fix this problem is to drill more holes for the intake and exhaust for the fan to pull air through. I tried this, but my drill bit didn't go through the bottom of the PC and I found that our tx2 bases are made out of metal! I never knew that. I did, however, remove some of the plastic from the underside of the keyboard, at the top-right of the keyboard, to get a little more air flow. One day, I might drill or dremel some more holes in the based between the current air inlets and the back of the PC.

Satellite P10-504 - Recovery disk will not load

Anyone got any ideas why my recovery discs will not load,all i get is the window box asking what would you like windows to do,,like what you get when you insert a vid or music disc, am sure the last time i used them they just went straight into recovery mode,i have had a major fault which i have managed to just about sort [see disappearing IE down the page] but feel i need to start again] thanks

Sido
These are Toshiba's instructions (last updated July 06 so is the P10 covered?)
How to boot your Toshiba PC from CD-ROM, LAN, or diskette
Print
Document ID: 98080545
Posted Date: 09/16/04
Last Updated: 07/21/06
Operating System: BIOS
Category: Boot/Reboot, CD
Distribution: Public
Applicable Models: Portege All
Satellite All
Satellite Pro All
TE-Series TE2000
Tecra All
Use of any software made available for download from this system constitutes your acceptance of the Export Control Terms and the terms in the Toshiba end-user license agreement both of which you can view before downloading any such software.
Information:
Many Toshiba PCs can boot (start Windows, or another operating system) from devices other than the built-in hard disk (HDD) or built-in diskette drive (FDD). These devices include USB diskette drives, CD-ROM discs, a local area network (LAN), and PC Card (PCMCIA) hard disk drives.
Toshiba PCs that offer alternate boot devices allow you to specify which device to boot from (the 'boot priority') by three methods:
From BIOS Setup (semi-permanent setting)
Boot priority specifies the order in which the computer searches for a bootable operating system. For example, if you set your system to boot from devices in this order: CD-ROM > HDD > LAN, the computer first checks for a bootable CD, then for a bootable HDD, then for a bootable LAN, and loads the operating system from the first one it finds.
Different models offer different options for setting boot priority. For information about how to access the BIOS/CMOS settings on your Toshiba PC, please see the Support Bulletin entitled "How to access the BIOS Settings on your Toshiba Portable PC" that is applicable to your model. By setting the boot priority in this manner, the boot selected priority setting will be retained for all future restarts, until it is changed again.
From the Boot Device Menu (temporary setting)
When the TOSHIBA splash screen is displayed when you first turn on your computer, a boot menu prompt may be displayed for a few seconds near the bottom of the screen, indicating that a key (F2 or F12, for example) can be pressed to display a menu of boot options. The time allowed for detecting the keypress is very brief, so you'll need to be both prepared and quick.
On some models this prompt reads Press F12 for boot menu. On others, it may say Press C to boot from CD-ROM. On still others, there may be a row of colored icons representing the various boot devices (HDD, FDD, CD, LAN, PCMCIA, etc.) Press F12 while these icons are displayed, and then use the arrow keys to move the cursor from one to another. As new models are released, the wording of these prompts may change.
On models that offer a text boot device menu, simply press the key corresponding to the desired boot device from the list of available devices.
The selection of a boot device from any of these boot device menus affects only the current startup operation; the next time the computer is started it will follow the boot priority setting established in BIOS Setup (see the BIOS Setup method, above).
From the Boot Device Hotkeys (temporary setting)
Immediately after pressing the power-on button, press the hotkey for the device from which you wish to boot:
Hotkey Boots from device
C IDE CD-ROM1
F ISA FDD2
U USB FDD3
N internal LAN adapter4
The computer will boot from the selected device if it finds a bootable operating system, otherwise it will search for a bootable device, following the boot priority set in BIOS Setup.
"IDE CD-ROM" refers to the computer's internal CD-ROM drive (built-in, SelectBay, or built-in to a Toshiba docking device).
"ISA FDD" refers to an internal or SelectBay diskette drive, or an external diskette drive that connects to the PC through a special Toshiba-proprietary connector.
Not all models support booting from a USB-connected diskette drive.
Not all models support the hotkey for the internal LAN adapter, even though they may support booting from LAN.
The selection of a boot device from Boot Device Hotkeys affects only the current startup operation; the next time the computer is started it will follow the boot priority setting established in BIOS Setup (see the BIOS Setup method, above).
Notes:
Booting from a CD in a CD-ROM drive requires that the CD be made bootable when it is created ('burned'). Simply copying files to a CD does not make it bootable.
If a "PXE..." error is displayed when you start the computer, it indicates that the computer is attempting to boot from a network (LAN), but is not able to find a remote boot server. If this happens repeatedly, and you are not deliberately trying to boot from a network server, change the boot priority in BIOS Setup to make 'LAN' the last entry in the list of boot devices.
- cc/wa

Satellite P10-504 - Slow system start

Hi again, help if you can.
My laptop takes good 8 minutes to get to the point when I can use it. Yet it only takes just over a minute to bring up all my desk top icons. The problem is the blue bar at the bottom, that's what takes the time to load, there's only 4 to load when desktop opens the only one is present and that is the speaker icon [vol control] the other three wireless icon, and the local area icon ,and windows one care icon,takes an age to come on.
I went into start up items and not knowing what to stop. I tick them all to not start but still it takes about eight minutes. Sometimes longer to fully operate, whilst I am waiting the blue disk light is full on. Any ideas appreciated.
I do use uni blue ,reg cleaner along with one care, neither at start up.
Thanks Colin
XP Professinoal SP3 and Satellite P10 504

Hey sido,
I also dont know why it takes 8 minutes until you can use your notebook but normally such problems are caused due the installed software and many programs start up folder.
You should remove all programs from start up folder that you dont need and check also msconfig (Start > run > msconfig). There you can also disable some start up programs that you dont need.
Furthermore uninstall all applications that you dont need and clean the registry using CCleaner.
If nothing does work you should reinstall Windows using Toshiba recovery disk. After recovery installation it should take 1 or 2 minutes until you can use notebook.
Greets
PS: Disk defragmentation is also useful ;)

Replace Toshiba LX815-D1310 motherboard??

Okay, so my Toshiba LX815 (All-In-One desktop) has been nagging me for about a month to perform a Bios update recommended by Toshiba its self. So I went through and followed the update steps accordingly making sure I did not prematurely restart the computer. When the update completed it asked me to shutdown the computer to finish the process so I did...but then it didn't boot back up and hasn't been able to boot back up. I'm not too good with hardware, I know how to replace hardware but don't know the specifics of each component. I tried replacing the RAM and that didn't work so the only possible thing I can think of would be that somehow the motherboard is f**ked. Any suggestions? Also if I decide to just buy a new mobo which one would you recommend? I'm not a PC gamer (hence the Toshiba LX815)
My computer doesn't give me any error beeps upon trying to boot. All it does is it turns the fans on for maybe 5 seconds and then shuts down again and then repeats this cycle until I pull the power cord. The screen stays black.

Try the suggestions in this article:
What can I do if my Windows 8 laptop won't start?
The second and third sections mention a battery. Because you have a desktop, you don't have a battery. Just follow along without doing the battery-specific actions.
- Peter

Is my Toshiba Satellite L35 Motherboard bad?

Here is my story, I have a 4 yr. old Toshiba Satellite L35 laptop that all of a sudden 1 month ago stopped showing anything on the screen. I replaced the AC adapter and then placed a new hard drive-Still the screen does not show anything. The On/Off light comes on and stays green, then the ac/battery light comes on and stays green, but the hard drive light just appears for a few seconds and then turns off and NOTHING on the screen. A computer repair guy says that it is the motherboard. What do you guys think? Can a motherboard just "go bad" with nothing done to it (like the computing dropping on the ground, or a drink spilling on it). He says he can replace the motherboard for $50 labor only (I would buy the motherboard myself). I feel that I can probably replace the motherboard myself.
James

if you think it is overheating try cleanin it out. cleaning notebook vents.
if you want to really get in there and clean it out. A305 disassemble.
but only do the second if your warranty is over.
-civicman4-
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Post all info about your laptop and version of windows. We are working on it but still do not have the powers to read your mind.

Hp dv9000 possible motherboard failure

I have had my dv9000 for about 3 years. This problem just started yesterday. Basically, it won't start. It worked ok in the morning, then I put it to sleep to take it somewhere. However, when I tried to open it back up, nothing happened. I hit the power button and the lights came on for a second or two and the fan started up, but I heard nothing else and then everything just turned off. I have tried to hit the power button again and again, but the same thing happens, the lights come on for a second, the fan turns on for a second then it all dies. I have disconnected the battery and tried it, and have tried it on battery only, no luck either way. I have also tried to flash the ram and it has done nothing either. I originally thought it might be a hard drive failure, but then I was told that it is probably the motherboard. I don't necessairily want to go and spend the money on a new motherboard if that isn't the problem, but I'm not positive what the problem is, or if its even worth the money to try and replace it. Any help would be appreciated.

I have the same problem. The Laptop worked two days ago, crashed (powered off) and will not boot. All of the blue LEDs light for 1 second when the Power Button is pressed then go out. Unlike the original post, I do not hear any fan or any other sounds. Local PC store told me what others have posted. Motherboard issues like this are common on these models. Not worth fixing. What a waste of money. This laptop was used in-home only as a desktop replacement. The furthest it ever traveled was between floors. Never dropped, never damaged in any way. Obviously a design flaw that cost me a bunch of $. I hope HP monitors these forums. They can see how many devices I have personally registered in the past, not to mention the ridiculous amount of HP hardware I have also been responsible for purchasing at work. Perhaps they can calculate just how much future business they have lost due to this cheap piece of junk. By the way, this is the first total failure of a personal computer, (Laptop or Desktop) since my first purcahse in 1994. Yes I have had equipment failures (Power Supply, A/C Power bricks,Laptop Screens, Audio and video cards and memory) but never a failure that would render the entire system useless and worthless. Disgusting.

DV2899EA Artist Edition Motherboard Failure

Hi,
I have a problem with my Laptop. When I have given in HP service centre , they said the chipset has failed due to the over heat problem of NVIDEA graphics card. The only way is changing the complete chipset, but it costing around 400$.
Is that costs that much and Do I have any another way to bring my laptop into working condition.
My worry is if change the chipset, is there a guarantee that it works fine without heating problem?
Is there any other motherboard available without NVDIA graphics card for my laptop model?
My Laptop Model is DV2899EA.
Regards,
Raju
This question was solved.
View Solution.

You have the Intel version of the dv2700 series which is not as prone to failure as the AMD version. However, you do have the nVidia GeForce graphics, which as you have seen can fail.
460716-001
The above is the part number of the system board with the Intel integrated graphics. Here is a link to the Service Manual:
Manual
The motherboard itself is readily available on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-HP-460716-001-Pavilion-Intel-Socket-478-Laptop-Motherboard-/2308...
This motherboard would have lower performance in gaming and graphics but would run cooler and likely last longer.
The board should fit but there may be minor differences with the ports which could require some fitting.
You can likely get a local service shop to install the integrated grahics type board for around $150 labor, which would make the total bill more like $250 than $400. I would frankly buy a new laptop before spending that much to repair it but it is your call.

Toshiba P10-504 Motherboard Failure

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for