Universal power supply

Probably in the "dumb" question catagory and I think I already know the answer.......maybe someone familiar with this topic can explain it a little bit or point me in the direction of some reading material that explains what's happening with the power supply ..........when making use of the "universal" power supply capabilties in a foreign country that is using 240/50HZ power with a 120V/60HZ US model powerbook, will there be any speed differences in the computer when playing music sequences/pro tools sessions....will the audio "slow" down due to the difference from 60HZ to 50 HZ......how does the power supply compensate for the differences? Hope this makes sense!

it was a legitimate question......not too sure why you're so astounded with my inquiry
It certainly is a legitimate question, as is any question which falls within the Terms of Use. And I'm not astounded with your question. Both times I was clearly referring to the issues itself, not the question; as I said:
astounded as I'd be if there were any difference in any facet of PB operation on 120 vs 240.
I would, as I said, be astounded if this turned out to be an issue which had never before been identified.
One further point: if the voltage step-down occurs as I posted earlier, it shouldn't matter what application is running, as it would be running on the same DC voltage no matter what the external power source.
Guess I could run pre recorded test tones and measure.
Please let us know if you do run tests on both 120 and 240; I'd run tests with batt too. As I'm sure you already know, it's important to rule out as many other variables as possible. One thing I would pay particular attention to is the setting for Processor Performance in Energy Saver>Options. I wonder if it's possible that going back and forth between the different power sources could change settings such as this. In any case, real world beats theory almost every time, so it'll be interesting to hear about what you find.

Similar Messages

Apple TV 40G (1st gen) power supply specification

I'll be traveling from different region on the globe anytime. I am planning to bring my Apple TV 40G(1st gen) anywhere I go. As I read the specification of this device, it says "Built-in 48-watt universal power supply". Does it mean the power supply can work with 220Vac 60hz? I am just curious because I'll be traveling to Philippines anytime soon.

it's a universal device, so will work anywhere.
the only thing you will need to change is the power cable/plug.

Sudden Power Supply Problem

Hello. My 17" PowerBook G4 is just over 1 year old. It's been working great until now. Suddenly the battery went dead. When I plugged in the charger, the "charging" light is blinking green. There doesn't appear to be any damage to the charger, plugs, sockets etc. If I "reset" the charger it continues to behave the same. Any ideas?

I'm sorry to say that after playing mix and match with my buddies Powerbook/Battery/PowerSupply for an evening, we pretty much isolated the problem to the PowerBrick. Don't know why it went bad, but it did. I'm going to have to agree with all the reviews/comments that say the PowerBrick is too fragile. On a personal note, I am very dissappointed with Apple for having such a weak link in their chain.
I have replaced the brick with a Kensington A0532 70Watt universal power supply for Apple Laptops and iPods. It works like a charm, and cost the same as a brick, $80. It is white, and comes with 2 different sized laptop plugs, and an adaptor to charge an iPod directly. It has a very long DC cord, but a very very short (1 inch?) AC cord. It works well for my purposes.
A friend of mine has a Targus 90Watt adaptor for the Mac (A14US?) which he loves. His was $120 but came with DC in plugs for the car and airplane.

Power supply APTV2

Hey,
Does anybody have more details about the power supply in the new APTV2? It is only written "* Built-in 6-watt universal power supply" on the website, does that mean a unit bought in the US will work in Europe?
Thanks,
Martin

the product is universal, so will work anywhere.
all you would need to change is the power cable.

Airport Extreme Power supply

I have a dome type Airport, which my daughter was using. Until she said it had stopped working. Got her to bring it over and found no power from the jack plug. So took the case apart. Power was reaching the circuit board, but no 5 volt out, so it was not the lead. I have made a start on looking for a replacement Transformer and noted that I have a Nokia phone one that has the same power out. Would it be worth fitting a jack to this, to use on the Airport. Or has someone an idea of a way of getting a replacement. Nothing like the Foxlink Tech. comes up on a search.
Regards
Dave

Perhaps you will have better luck posting or starting a new thread in the Airport / Time Capsule category.
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=140
As far as your problem, I don't know the power requirements of the older Airport Extreme Base stations, but if the power requirements are listed on the device and you can find a transformer that can supply that (your nokia PS), then cut and splice the old end of the broken power supply and solder (do not twist) the old end onto the new PS.
I don't know your electrical background but you want to make sure that you don't get the wires backwards on the plug. Make sure that you don't cut the wire to short on the plug end encase you need to repair again.
Another solution is a universal power supply. Radio Shack and maybe Walmart sell these. They come with different voltage settings and different plugs that you can switch out. Keep in mind that they may not have the plug end that will match your AP.

Spontaneous Shut-off problem (power supply?)

Hi-- I have a first generation G5 iMac.
Last year, there was about a week in which it would spontaneously shut off. I read there were possibly some power supply issues with the early units, so I took it in to an Apple Store hoping they would diagnose such a problem and fix it; they ran it for a couple hours, said there were no problems, and sent me home. Over the last month, it has started happening again, and has happened at least seven times. I do regular backups and I've been lucky, but I know one of these days it's going to happen while I'm doing something important. I wouldn't mind taking it back to the Apple Store, but it's not an easy trek, and it happens so unpredictably that I think the odds of getting it to do it at an appointed time is slim, in which case I'm afraid they're just going to send me home again.
Just wanted to know if anyone else has dealt with such a problem, what the fix was, and how I might convince the tech guys to delve a little deeper even when they don't actually witness the event.
Thanks,
dave

Miriam--
Dave, if, in fact,as Charlie suggests, the cause of
your shutdowns is a variable power supply, it should
easily be cured by the addition of a Universal Power
Supply
While an excellent idea (I wouldn't have a computer without connecting it to a UPS any more), a UPS won't necessarily solve the problem of the unexpected shutdowns. My iMac was on a UPS and it still would shut down.
There are two kinds of UPSs. The most common is a battery backup. Most of the time, the computer is actually getting power from the mains. If the UPS detects a failure of the mains, it'll switch to providing the computer with battery power. But there will be a very small fraction of a second where there will be not power at all supplied to the computer. If the computer's power supply is healthy, it should be able to bridge that tiny interruption until it starts getting power from the UPS. But if it's not healthy enough, the computer will shut down.
The second kind of UPS is what you are describing, where the UPS provides power to the computer at all times. These aren't as common, though, and are more expensive. I'm not sure if APC even sells this kind. At least, I couldn't find any at their web site that I could be sure were this kind.
When I had the shutdown problems with my iMac, I initially thought it might be a problem with the UPS, since the iMac would shut off if the power was interrupted long enough for the UPS to notice. I could easily test it by just pulling the plug going to the UPS. Earlier, I had been able to do that without problems in order to test a script I was writing to shut down the computer in case the of a power failure (for some reason, the software built into OS X to do this wasn't working right).
But when I was having the shutdowns, the iMac would shut off right away as soon as I pulled the plug on the UPS. Luckily, I was able to test my UPS at work on another computer and try a UPS from work on my computer and rule out the UPS. Now that my power supply unit has been replaced, the iMac will once again survive the switch from the mains to the UPS's battery.
charlie

Power Supply - US and UK Electricity

I brought my iMac G5 to London, UK from San Francisco where I bought it. When I plugged it in, the thing blew up!! Big Bang and Big Spark! Two Questions:
1. Isn't the power supply supposed to work with both 120 and 240 AC?
2. If someone fits a new power supply here in London, will it DEFINITELY WORK back in the US?

Most Macs have a universal or self-adjusting power supply. However, I have heard that there have been models that were not. It behoves everyone to definitively know the power consumption of their Mac and not make costly assumptions.
If an authorized service center refits your Mac with a new power supply do not assume again that it is universal. Ask them what they are installing, and what are its limits. Perhaps your have a choice. Perhaps it can be fitted with a universal power supply.
Good luck. Hopefully the damage is limited to the power supply.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Where can I get an EU power supply for my late 2009 mac mini

I have a late 2009 mac mini. The power supply is good for US voltage only. The new mac mini specs say they can accept 110 - 220 VAC, 50-60 Hz. Will one of these new power supplies work with my older mini? Where can I get one, can't seem to locate on the Apple online store. Moving to France and don't want to leave my mac behind!
Thanks,
JSP

you could get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-XP18000-Universal-External-Netbooks/dp/B002K8M9H C
it's about the same cost as an extra battery used to be. there's a range of similiar products at Amazon, i'd check reviews.

SEARCHING FOR TUNSTEN E POWER SUPPLY REPLACEMENT

I am working here in Baghdad, Iraq and need to know where to purchase a replacement AC adapter.
Type is PalmOne SAC MODEL R3W005-500
PALM PIN: 163-5877A-US
INPUT: 120VAC 60HZ 100MA
OUTPUT: 5.5VDC 500MA
ITE power supply I think the power supply was plugged in to 220 by accident. However, I do have a universal which works some but only charges at 4.5 volts. I would like to replace old one. But do not know where to go. I am sure I will have to purchase online.
Post relates to: Tungsten E

Hello and thank you for using the Palm Help Forums!
I was unable to locate a charger on our website but I was able to locate the charger you need on a different website. http://www.gethightech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CL-920&Category_Code=CC
This is for the Tungsten E device you currently own. I hope this resolves your issue.
-Pat

Harman Kardon iSub 2000 - Power Supply pin points required

G'day
Can someone help me here, recently moved houses (separated from.. you know) and had limited time to get my things to here, I lost the power supply for the iSub here (kicking my guts as want use it as i love it!), I was wondering if someone could help me out with the pin out points so that I can make one please. And what was the output voltage again?
Thankyou once again.
Regards
AP

You might try a universal AC Adapter from Radio Shack. Radio Shack's AC Adapter has multiple interchangeable plug types & you can set the exact voltage via a switch on the power supply too. They're not too expensive either if that worries you.

Power Supply broken

Hi folks.
My macbook is now about 1.5 years old.
Beside the fact, that the screen slowly starts to crack at the hinges, my Power Supply Unit is now broke.
It just doesn't charge the battery anymore. Can't be the battery itself and with another Power Supply it works.
I'm VERY, VERY disappointed right now.
Which possibilities do I have right now?
Will Apple give me a new one for free?
What to do?
I need the macbook for university and I don't have the money to buy a new one.
Best Regards

You are entirely welcome.
You would need to ask Apple as to whether this is goodwill about such a case. People who answer questions here are just other users like yourself. You can contact them via expresslane.apple.com or use their phone number in Austria - (43) 0810 300 427*

Apple TV 160GB 1st Generation Failed Power Supply

Hi,
Anyone know where I can buy a replacement Delta switching power supply model ADP-36BF (Output 5v 7.2A) for my failed one in my Apple TV 160GB Generation 1 ?
I wouldn't suppose Apple woud repair it for less than the cost of a new ATV Black :-(

it's a universal device, so will work anywhere.
the only thing you will need to change is the power cable/plug.

Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
His specs are:
Athlon 64 3200
MSI K8N Platinum
X-Infinity case
512 Geil Ram
Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
120 GB Hard drive
Thanks

Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
Have fun,

500W Power Supply kicks out sometimes - too much load?

Hi guys,
I have a brand new 500W power supply from Aspire:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=956
I have a problem though. When I turn the PC on, I can be working fine for a while and all of a sudden BAM, the power goes off on the system. I cannot get it to power back up unless I remove the power cable from the back and turn the power switch off and on. However, it seems to be random in how long it stays up.
I did a complete case rebuild, in which I added a lot more fans and a HardCano 12 controller and other goodies, which is why I went for something more that the stock 350W that came with my X-Dreamer II case.
Is this a problem created by how much load I'm placing on the PS? If so, I can remove a device or two, or make sure I don't pump the fan RPM up too much.

Hi Sharp,
The 4 Vantec UV-LED fans are rated for 0.25A each.
Here is the product page for the HardCano12 unit:
http://www.thermaltake.com/accessories/hardcano/a1845.htm
I'm fairly sure that it's not my overclocking as I was able to sustain those speeds even before doing the case upgrade and modding on a (generic) Turbolink 350W power supply.
The HardCano seems to draw on the 12V rail. What other components typically draw on this? I'll see if I can calculate it out and see if I'm just trying to draw too much juice.
Sorry for being such a n00b when it comes to this stuff. I don't know a lot about electronic engineering. I guess I should have paid more attention in university physics. LOL

Universal power supply

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