USB Port Limitations???

Here's the deal. I have 1 20" aluminum iMac and 3 homebrew Windows PCs. The PCs are connected to an Iogear KVM-DVI powered switch to share Kbd, Mouse, and usb devices. On the iMac I had an Epson printer, a Canon scanner and Dymo Labelmaker connected to a Belkin powered USB hub and the keyboard and ipod connected directly to the mac's USB ports, and it all worked fine.
I decided to see if I could share everything with everybody and I connected the Belkin Powered USB hub to the switched USB port on the KVM-DVI switch. Now I can see the printer, scanner, and labelmaker from all of my PCs when switched and they work with all of the pcs through the switch. I can also use a common keyboard/mouse/display with all pcs and the iMac, but the iMac does not see the other usb devices. The only difference from the iMac's viewpoint is now a single usb port supports a keyboard, mouse, and a belkin hub. It appears that either the iMac does not like sharing the usb port for the keyboard and mouse with anything else, or there is a limit to the number of usb devices per port.
I'm nonplussed because I've been running Macs and Pcs in a shared environment since the Mac Plus and with the exception of a bizarre wiring requirement for the RS442 serial port on the old Mac Plus everything has always worked (at least when I applied a hammer to the appropriate places). Is this an impossible dream, or is there a bigger hammer available?

Possible that it's not supported by the router. To see the list of supported hard drives, you can go to this link: http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=0542deb2fe8c469383f8c59723d256a2_List_of_Tested_US....

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Bluetooth and USB ports aren't working, so am unable to use Imac past turning it on. There's no way to connect mouse or keyboard, it started right after a software update for Maverick (OS X bash Update 1.0 – OS X Mavericks), bluetooth symbol not showing in the task bar at all.

Hi SBrwn,
Thanks for visiting Apple Support Communities.
The symptom you're describing can be frustrating to troubleshoot as our options are limited. I do suggest resetting the System Management Controller (SMC) if you have not already. This step can help you regain use of USB and Bluetooth.
Follow these steps to reset the SMC on your iMac:
Resetting the SMC for Mac Pro, Intel-based iMac, Intel-based Mac mini, or Intel-based Xserve
Shut down the computer. [by holding down the power button]
Unplug the computer's power cord.
Wait fifteen seconds.
Attach the computer's power cord.
Wait five seconds, then press the power button to turn on the computer.
You can find these steps and more information at this link:
Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
All the best,
Jeremy

No Audio or USB Ports after Recovery on Satellite L505D-S5983

I have recently done a system recovery with disks I created when I originally got my Satellite L505D-S5983. Which put the laptop back to an "out of the box" state...supposedly... I have been asking on a Microsoft forum for help with my problems, with limited luck.... It is still not working. I'm pasting my original posts here hoping that maybe somebody on here can help me.
POST 1:
My Toshiba Satellite L505D is running 32-bit Windows 7 Home Premium. After about 4 months of downtime I recently started it back up. There were roughly 37 updates to install when I turned it on, as expected. The updates were downloaded and installed, but when the system was restarted the system froze as soon as the desktop loaded. I booted multiple times and every time it completely freezes immediately after start up. I am not even able to open the task manager (ctrl+alt+del). They system boots perfectly fine in safe mode, and I ran what diagnostics I could find and nothing shows up....according to Windows everything is fine.
After Going through this multiple times, I got sick of it and decided to do a system recovery. Not a system RESTORE...it was a system RECOVERY. The HDD was completely wiped, and the system was supposedly returned to its original form as it was out of the box. Getting my hopes up as it finished its process... The system worked fine through the initial setup (language, time, etc.) and then as soon as the desktop loaded it froze again!
So here I am with a completely wiped HDD (except for the factory toshiba software), and a Windows OS that will only work in safe mode... I would like to avoid reinstalling Windows, I don't have any disks or anything. So any help would be appreciated
P.S. let me elaborate on what I mean by "froze". The system is completely non-responsive. No cursor movement at all, touchpad, keyboard, USB ports, nothing. When I did the restore the cursor, touchpad and keyboard worked through the initial settings only. Even when the desktop is loading i get movement for a second or two before everything freezes.
REPLY I RECIEVED:
Hi,
Since the computer is working in safe mode, I would suggest you to start the computer in clean boot to check which third party program is causing the issue. To configure your computer to clean boot follow the link
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929135
Note: After you have finished troubleshooting, follow step 7 in the article to boot to normal startup.
If the issue does not persist in clean boot then refer ‘Step 3’, ‘step 4’ and ‘step 5’ from the following link to narrow done the issue and find out which service or startup item is causing the issue.
MY RESPONSE POSTING MY CURRENT ISSUE:
Thank you, and yes that's exactly what it was. It turned out to be an ATI program for my AMD graphics card that was not installed properly. It makes me wonder if I had to do the recovery in the first place lol.
However now I have a whole other issue. Windows is now telling me that "No audio output device is installed".....
In device manager the yellow "!" is there (High Definition Audio Controller), it tells me that it is not working....yet it says that the best drivers are installed! So yeah...I have no audio now. The only info windows gives me for the sound card is that it from Microsoft... with a driver version of 6.1.7601.17514....which naturally doesn't really help me since I have no idea what card or mobo I have . Is there any way for me to find out what I need other than opening up my laptop?
//--> Toshiba Satellite L505D-S5983_AMD Athlon II Dual-Core M300 2.00 GHz_3GB RAM 32-bit OS   <--//
RESPONSE FROM SOMEBODY ELSE:
Hi,
Check with Toshiba Support, their on-line documentation and drivers, and ask in their
forums about known issues.
Toshiba - Forums
http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/
Toshiba - Contacts
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/navShell.jsp?cf=su_contact
Toshiba - Drivers - navigate to your model
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/home.jsp?nav=Download
Toshiba - Support
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/home.jsp
========================================
First run SFC /scannow and checkdisk (chkdsk) as the cause of these issues might
be some sort of corruption.
Start - type in Search box - CMD   find at top of list - RIGHT CLICK - RUN AS ADMIN
sfc /scannow
How to Repair Windows 7 System Files with System File Checker
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1538-sfc-scannow-command-system-file-checker.html
Then run checkdisk (chkdsk).
How to Run Disk Check in Windows 7
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html
Then use this troubleshooter :
References to Vista also apply to Windows.
Fixing a customer problem: “No Audio Device is Installed” when launching sndvol on Windows Vista
http://blogs.msdn.com/b/larryosterman/archive/2009/01/06/fixing-a-customer-problem-no-audio-device-i...
Also update or re-install the driver.
Control Panel - Device Manager - SOUNDS - look for HD Audio - Mine says RealTek High
Definition Audio (that is an example and yours may have an entirely different name/maker).
Write down description make and model - double click on it - drivers tab - write down version.
Now Click UPdate Drivers which may not do anything as MS is far behind certifying drivers.
Then RIGHT CLICK on it and UNINSTALL - REBOOT - this will rebuild the driver stack.
1st go to system maker's site and look for latest driver Download - SAVE - go to right click on
and RUN AS ADMIN (This is your fallback.) REBOOT after each driver installation.
NOTE : Sound drivers often rollback so check the version after installation and the
reboot to see if the version you installed is there, if not repeat the install - reboot
until it is. It can take several tries depending on how many rollbacks it does.
Then do same for Device Maker's site.
Manually look at manufacturer's sites for drivers - and Device Maker's sites.
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/driverssupport/ht/driverdlmfgr.htm
Installing and updating drivers in Windows 7 (updating drivers manually using the methods above
is preferred to ensure the latest drivers from System maker and Device makers are found)
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/43216-installing-updating-drivers-7-a.html
Error “the Audio Service Is Not Running” When Opening the Volume Mixer in Vista
http://www.winhelponline.com/blog/error-the-audio-service-is-not-running-when-opening-the-volume-mix...
Also Right Click Speaker near clock - Playback Devices - right click in the box area -
check Show disable and disconnected devices. Highlight speaker and on the lower
Right click Properties check settings for Device Usage enabled and so on. Also do
same for Configure on Lower Left of that box.
In Control Panel you can also look for an Audio Manager along with the Sound Settings.
Open the Playing Audio troubleshooter
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/Open-the-Playing-Audio-troubleshooter
Problems with sound and audio or no sound - a Mr Fixit
http://support.microsoft.com/gp/no_sound
No sound in Windows
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help/no-sound-in-windows
Tips for fixing common sound problems
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/Tips-for-fixing-common-sound-problems
Speakers and other audio output devices
http://windowshelp.microsoft.com/Windows/en-US/Help/a43f3a31-6d9f-49d1-be22-e2f47b8b1f2c1033.mspx
How to Enable Hidden Audio Devices in Vista
http://www.vistax64.com/tutorials/143447-audio-device-enable-hidden-devices.html
Hope this helps.
===========================================================================================
Ok...so I have installed all of the appropriate drivers that I thought I may need from this website. I have tried ALL of those system analysis programs that were suggested. Every one of them lists my mobo simply as a Toshiba motherboard, with no audio card information. Which I'm assuming that is because it has an internal sound processor. My problem is that none of the properties, or ANYTHING I try, will give me information on what I need to fix this...
I would be more than willing to run the recovery again if I knew that I had everything I actually need... When I created my original recovery disks it created a third disk with "apps and drivers". I installed all of them...and still here I am... And I haven't even STARTED on my USB port issue yet...those don't work either, and they don't even show up in my Device Manager...sigh...
And please, a response that doesn't look like an automated response to try and sell software like the last one I recieved from the Microsoft forum would be appreciated
Thank you for your time, and apologies for the lengthy post, but I wanted to provide as much info as possible.

Satellite L505D-S5983
I would try another restore of the hard disk to its original out-of-the-box contents using Toshiba recovery media. Maybe something went wrong in the process. Make sure everything works before applying any updates and adding any hardware or software.
Then add things carefully, rebooting Windows and testing the USB and audio at each step.
Please note this.
The only info windows gives me for the sound card is that it from Microsoft... with a driver version of 6.1.7601.17514....which naturally doesn't really help me since I have no idea what card or mobo I have . Is there any way for me to find out what I need other than opening up my laptop?
Every one of them lists my mobo simply as a Toshiba motherboard, with no audio card information. Which I'm assuming that is because it has an internal sound processor. My problem is that none of the properties, or ANYTHING I try, will give me information on what I need to fix this...
All of the latest drivers for your model are easily found here. This one is for the sound.
   Realtek Audio Driver for Windows 7 (32/64)
-Jerry

When my iPhone is connected (via the Lightning cable) to the usb port in my car, the alert tones are no longer played through the car speaker or the phone. This previously worked, but has randomly stopped working, help!

When my iPhone is connected (via the Lightning cable) to the usb port in my car, the alert tones are no longer played through the car speaker or the phone. This previously worked, but has randomly stopped working. help!

I took my iPhone to the Service center of M/s RSG INFOTECH PRIVATE LIMITED on April 17, 2014.
Why are you posting in this forum about what occured with an independent service provider? How is is at all relevant to Apple?? In fact, service by any person or business not authorized by Apple voids any waranty.

HT2421 If I attach a hard drive to the USB port, can I access it from the wired network, while simultaneously creating a separate wifi network with NO access to the hard drive?

I already have a wireless network (call it Network A) with connectivity to various wired and wireless devices. I have a USB hard drive that I directly attach to my MacBook Air. I use it for Time Machine backups and general storage. I would like to move this drive to an AirPort Extreme. I would like to continue to be able to reach it via Network A, but also use the AirPort to create a guest Network (Network B). I don't want the guest network to access the hard drive.
Now, I know I can plug a hub into the USB port and put (I hear up to 3) hard drives on it. Can I determine which ones are accessable by Network A, and by Network B?
Bonzo...

Several things to consider.
You cannot create a wireless network for guests if the AE is bridged. It has to be the main router in the network.
You cannot use the existing TM backups on the USB drive.. if you plug into a network it will need to be wiped.. and only AC model can produce reliable TM backups.. the earlier models are not reliable for TM backups.
See http://pondini.org/TM/Airport.html
These two factors alone may be enough to make you reconsider.
If you can create a guest network.. and you can overcome the limitations of airdisks.. then any person on the guest network should not be able to access the disk drive.. but if you wish to go ahead Bob Timmons might be able to confirm it.. I stay away from USB drives on routers.. I do not and will not use a router as a NAS.. it is underpowered and simply unsuitable long term.. a cheap single disk NAS is many times faster.. more reliable.. and has a marvellous thing called backup.. no USB disk or even internal disk in a TC can back itself up. .nor can TM backup network drives.. so any data you store on a USB drive is going to be gone one day.. unless you go to great lengths to back it up .. to where.. another USB drive plugged into another router somewhere.. the definition of slow.. should be copying files between two usb drives in an apple network using wireless. You will experience new levels of pain and suffering.. likened to the belly of the Sarlacc.

MacBook Pro 13" 2011 - Won't let me use 2 USB ports at the same **** time.

I'm trying to use 2 usb driven hardware devices at the same time and it won't let me - one of them always disconnects (usually the 2nd port) ...even though both devices work on other macbooks ive used lately..
Is it possible one of them isnt properly powered? Is there any way of "turning" them both on?
Sorry I sound so novice, i've had macs for 10+ years but i've never had this problem before...

USB ports on a computer have always had a limited amount of power. The least expensive solution is to get a powered USB hub, meaning it has a separate power supply. The hub will provide enough power to keep things running.
It will also make your extenal hard drives behave better it they are USB-powered.
Here's an example:
Newer Technology 7 Port Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Hub with Power Adapter for Mac & PC

ITunes Library set up on NetGear R6100 router with ReadyShare from USB port?

Can the iTunes Library be set up on a NetGear R6100 router with it's NetGear ReadyShare feature. from a USB thumb drive or USB hard drive attached to the one available R6100 router's USB 2.0 port?
I have read the Apple forum post about a similar question for the more advanced NetGear R7000 router, which says it can work there. Unlike some of the other sibling Netgear routers that do not have ReadyShare, my R6100 does, which leads me to believe that it should work, since its the same technology (they both have a router USB port with ReadyShare). It just appears that the documentation is very limited. The other post said to format the USB drive to the Apple format (HFS+), rather than Fat32, get the Mac or Apple to see the iTunes directory located on the router's USB port.
I'd like to know if anyone has had any luck using the ReadyShare.feature on their R6100 for sharing their iTunes library to the same iTunes account on different devices (laptop, PC, AppleTV, iPod, etc). My Apple TV has recently acquired a problem of not being able to detect the iTunes library on my PC, aftert a recent iTunes update, but that's another problem that the forums show a lot of people having. So I figured that since my R6100 router has the ability to share media over the network, I would try to move my iTunes library there, hopefully to make it easier to access by my Apple TV, and make it unnecessary to have my PC running when I watch my purchased iTunes movies, that are stored in that library. Interestingly, my movie and TV show files are stored in my iTunes Music folder under the "Movies" and "TV Shows" subdirectories (folders). The way it is set up now, if I'm watching a HD movie purchased from iTunes with my Apple TV, the movie stops playing as soon as my PC is shut down, which confirms to me that the large movie files are being pulled from there to my Apple TV.

Oh groan, not another conspiracy theory. No, it's a lot more likely Apple and Netgear and the dozens of other manufacturers haven't gotten together with the thousands users who have come up with hundreds of thousands of ways of rigging things up and tested each and every one of them. I am confident if Apple were out to mess things up for you they could have come up with something a lot more devious.
Did you do a web search for this? With a Google search specifying Netgear with this error I found:
ReadySHARE USB Hard drive access issue from a Mac Computer (Time Machine or iTunes not working properly)
- Able to see USB hard drive content but unable to write to USB hard drive connected to router's Readyshare port from Mac computer.
- Error that says "The iTunes application could not be opened. Unknown error 13008"
http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/22763/~/readyshare-usb-hard-drive- access-issue-from-a-mac-computer-%28time-machine-or
In fact it is almost certain that it is an issue of that particular model router and the drive formats it can use.

What is the best way to connect my guitar to the usb port on my IMac

This is for use with Logic Pro X
what is the best way to connect my guitar to the usb port on my
I-Mac

As has been said really, the less you pay the less quality, and flexibility you'll have on your sound.
For example, you could run on a 'Rocksmith Real Tone Cable' if you just wanted a cheap way of getting your guitar into the computer for some fun. Probably cost you $30 (I live in UK so can't be sure). If you're starting out then this could be considered the best option for dipping your toe in the water without spending too much.
You won't get a really nasty sound out of that if you can process it yourself in Logic afterwards to clean up, but it won't be great either. I imagine it could get quite noisy so you'd need to get heavily gating your guitar sound, if you're playing something clean that's not ideal.
Longterm, you're far better getting a decent audio interface, as you need something to play sound back through, if you have different input sources you usually have to create an aggregrate device on osx to use multple sources at once esp if you're using the built in audio chip on your mac to listen.
All this can add latency and possibly sync issues (i.e. drum tracks not in time with audio etc.), although generally it's not too bad, but it's something worth knowing if you want to do things on the cheap without buying a dedicated interface.
What kind of money did you want to spend? Are you thinking super duper cheap, and then see how it goes and maybe spend more in future if you enjoy it? Personally i would say £100-150 would get your something good to start with, like that Presonus audiobox, there's a lot of options like that available.
My local music shop always push the alesis io2 on new users, gotta say i'm not that overly impressed with it. Line 6 stuff will be good however, but limiting. Although i beleive you get their software for free with it?

Mac pro usb ports won't work when ipod is plugged in

I just bought a used Mac Pro (2008). 8 cores, 12 meg 0f ram, all of this so I wouldnt be limited as I was with my 4 meg Imac. I go to plug in my ipod, and none of the other ports work, I can't use the mouse or keyboard. Is there any way around this. I had to plug the ipod directly into the tower (the port wouldnt work) This is frustrating, I get this model to be more than capable for what I need, and something like this pops up...always something. If anyone out there has had this experience, and figured out a work around, please help. Thanks

okay, that doesn't sound usual. Sounds to me like the usb port is drawing too much power. Try doing a repair permission or SMC reset. If you are using it with a USB hub, maybe that needs plugging in to the wall, or maybe it has gone bad. I can't help you a lot, but just a little bit. repairing permissions is through Disk Utility. SMC goes like this: shut down the Mac pro, unplug the power cord, wait 15-20 seconds. reattach power cord, wait about 15 seconds, then press power button. you can maybe try resetting the PRAM-shut down Mac, turn on computer, hold down Command, Option,P and R keys before grey screen appears. Hold down until computer restarts again and you hear the 2nd startup sound. Let go of the keys. You can also check in "About this mac" (more info) to see if there's something wrong with the USB ports themselves.
Other than that, could be logic board battery. Maybe Archive and install. Sorry, the crystal ball has gone dark. I"m sure someone else can enlighten you more than I can. I always plugged my ipod directly into my tower via the front USB port...
John B

Macbook Pro 15" USB PORT DOESN'T RECOGNIZE ANY DEVICE.

I got my macbook pro 15" for about 1 year and 2 weeks ago, when I turned on my macbook and put my mouse ( Death Adder) into the USB PORT, my macbook DOESN'T RECOGNIZE IT. There are 2 usb ports on my macbook, I tried both port and there was only one port work correctly, the other one didn't work at all, I also tried to put my memory stick, external hard drive, vodafone 3g usb, ipod,....into that USB PORT but non of them worked. Is there any one here have the same problem???? Can you guy help me please. I stay quite far away from Apple Store so it is hard to bring it to repair. I tried to reset SMC, Update Software,...but still not work...HELP ME PLEASE...

I can't fault your troubleshooting. Sounds like a bad port.
Home remedies are limited. You can grab a magnifier and shine a flashlight in there. If you see any foreign material, use a toothpick or other non-conductive tool to extract it. If you can, give it a good blast of (dry, canned) compressed air to blow any particles loose.
Sometimes you can trick a flaky USB port into working at least intermittently by plugging in an extension cable or right-angle connector. Play with a device that lights up so it's easy to see whether it's working.
Take a hard look inside the connectors at the end of your Death Adder and other frequently-used devices. If you see any corrosion or bent pins, that's what damaged your USB port.
If the port requires physical repair, it's best to use Apple or an authorized dealer because if they make things worse while trying to fix it, they have to make it right. Joe's Appliance isn't similarly accountable.
If you need more USB ports, ExpressCard to USB adapters are dirt cheap.
Good luck.

Right USB Port not reading External HD

I'm using Mid 2014, Retina, 13-inch, Macbook Pro. I noticed that my right USB Port is not reading my 1 TB WD External HD but able to use mouse. How to fix it?

According to the fount of knowledge that is Wikipedia…
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
As with previous USB versions, USB 3.0 ports come in low-power and high-power variants, providing 150 mA and 900 mA respectively, while simultaneously transmitting data at SuperSpeed rates.[25] Additionally, there is a Battery Charging Specification (Version 1.2 – December 2010), which increases the power handling capability to 1.5 A but does not allow concurrent data transmission.
It doesn't make sense to me that a 'low power' USB port would output 500ma unless it was working in USB2 mode.
A unit load is defined as 100 mA in USB 1.x and 2.0, and 150 mA in USB 3.0. A device may draw a maximum of five unit loads (500 mA) from a port in USB 1.x and 2.0, or six unit loads (900 mA) in USB 3.0.
You may want to get the genius to confirm the spec for both ports if you go along to a store, I guess they may have limitations.
I would also boot into recovery mode just to see if the disk pops up in Disk Utility via both ports - that could indicate the port is being rendered useless by the OS.
Apologies, you appear to have tried that already.

IPhone killed my MBP USB Port

Got my shiny new iphone 3g, went home, plugged it into my shiny new MBP. I plugged it into the USB port nearest the power supply. Right away, the iphone started intermittently connecting/reconnecting. I jiggled the cable, checked a few things, seemed to be the phone. GREAT. So i plugged it into the other usb port, nearest the power button. No problems.
The problem is, now the USB port nearest the power plug won't work with anything. It intermittently disconnects external drives, USB jump drives, etc. Makes it impossible for using anything -- even a mouse.
Anyone else experience this? It's 100% re-produceable, i plug the iphone it, it attempts to do the 3 hour backup (sarcasm there) and then beeps as it disconnects. Then iphoto opens again as it re-connects. Ad-infinitum.

I've been using my google-fu to investigate.
It's not limited to just me, it seems pretty wide-spread. It also appears to have something to do with iPhone crashing the usb2.0 driver on the MBP. I have a genius bar meeting tomorrow night, i can hobble around it till then.

Thinkpad W530: None of the USB ports work when used with a 4338-35U replicator

I have tried mouse. keyboard and a generic USB stick with a LED. None of the USB ports work on the replicator. Everything works fine when connected directly to the W530. The replicator ports must not have power because the LED doesn't come on.

Hi mmjmm123,
How long have you had your replicator?
Has it always been like this?
This link is to the Lenovo User's Guide for replicators:
http://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles/43r8770_users_guide.pdf
Scroll to Chapter 5 for troubleshooting procedures.
Replicators do have limitations which can be found here:
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-69755
Check these sources and let us know how it works for you so we can share the knowledge.
Enjoy your day!
Be AWESOME Everyday!
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Error message when plugging in usb port?

When plugging in the new ipod nano into my computer I get this message:
Power Surge on Hub Port:
A usb device has malfunctioned and exceeded the poewr limits of its hub port. You should disconnect the device.
I just bought this i-pod nano yesterday. What do I do?

What do I do?
Plug the iPod directly into the computer's usb port instead of the hub. Or, use a power hub if the one you have is not powered by ac.

Motorola Hz800 Bluetooth headset shorts out MBA Bluetooth Module when plugged into MBA USB port for charging

This is the weiredest thing. Everything is fine with my MBA, I have an apple bluetooth keyboard and mouse running smoothy then I plug in my Motorola HZ800 bluetooth headset using a USB to mico USB cable to my MBA to charge it and BAM! I get a the bluetooth logo with a sawtooth wave through it. It shuts down the bluetooth module completely. I have to restart the computer to bring back the bluetooth module to life. And now my keyboard won't pair again, but that's a whole other issue. Any reason why this would be? Thanks.

Yes. USB ports are limited to a maximum of 500 ma of current. Check the current rating on the charger for your headset. It is probably higher than 500 ma. It overloads the port forcing it to shut down.

USB Port Limitations???

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