What do u recommend for multimedia production including video, animation, music and stills?

looking for best adobe product for combining all the above media. Any recommendations?

Where & How do you want your output to play?
On a DVD or a file played on a computer media server?

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I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

What software is recommended for the maintenance of mac?

What software is recommended for the maintenance of mac?

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more heavily promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X used to be so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
Let go of the Windows mentality that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. The machine should not be a focus of your attention. You shouldn't have to think about it at all. It should be a transparent, almost unnoticeable tool by means of which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a computer that depends on you to keep going, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the recommendation for cleaning ones sensor? I have a 5D.

What is the recommendation for cleaning the sensor on the 5D III
Thank you,
M

The manual recommends using a blower when the automatic cleaning fails - or better yet, sending it to Canon for service. Sometimes - rarely - a blower will work and is the simplest and reasonably safe thing to use.
Otherwise many like the Sensor Swab solution. It is tedious and expensive, but I have used it effectively several times - especially on the 5D that seemed more prone to spots than the newer models. The problem I always have is going from bad to worse to finally better - a lot of patience is required and wasting or going through several of the swabs is not uncommon. Maybe my technique sucks, but I find it takes a lot of time and swabs to be eventually be satisfied. That said, I have never caused any damage and I have always managed to finally get the sensor clean. Along with the swabs, good lighting and magnification (reading glasses or similar) is also necessary as the spots that look huge on a photo will be nearly invisible.
http://www.sensorswab.com/
Steve
EOS 5D MKIII

What OS is recommended for LabVIEW to run on a PDA?

I want to send information from a PDA via RS232 to a lens. I'm wondering if LabVIEW 6.1 will run on a PDA or if its an exe that is loaded onto the PDA. If a new version of LabVIEW for PDA's is available. Finally, what OS is recommended for LabVIEW to run on a the PDA, I've been looking at MS Windows for Pocket PC. Thanks.

In article <[email protected]>,
"cmiranda" wrote:
> I want to send information from a PDA via RS232 to a lens. I'm
> wondering if LabVIEW 6.1 will run on a PDA or if its an exe that is
> loaded onto the PDA. If a new version of LabVIEW for PDA's is
> available. Finally, what OS is recommended for LabVIEW to run on a the
> PDA, I've been looking at MS Windows for Pocket PC. Thanks.
Have you looked at the Linux version of the Sharp Zaurus SL-5500 PDA. I
believe there are several Intel processor based PDAs that can run Linux.
Since they can run Linux, they can run LabVIEW for Linux. Wow, that's
awfully simple... perhaps I should get one. A used one on Amazon is
$380. Tell us how it goes.
-Kevin

What index is suitable for a table with no unique columns and no primary key

alpha
beta
gamma
col1
col2
col3
100
1
-1
a
b
c
100
1
-2
d
e
f
101
1
-2
t
t
y
102
2
1
j
k
l
Sample data above and below is the dataype for each one of them
alpha datatype- string
beta datatype-integer
gamma datatype-integer
col1,col2,col3 are all string datatypes.
Note:columns are not unique and we would be using alpha,beta,gamma to uniquely identify a record .Now as you see my sample data this is in a table which doesnt have index .I would like to have a index created covering these columns (alpha,beta,gamma) .I
beleive that creating clustered index having covering columns will be better.
What would you recommend the index type should be here in this case.Say data volume is 1 milion records and we always use the alpha,beta,gamma columns when we filiter or query records
what index is suitable for a table with no unique columns and primary key?
col1
col2
col3
Mudassar

Many thanks for your explanation .
When I tried querying using the below query on my heap table the sql server suggested to create NON CLUSTERED INDEX INCLUDING columns ,[beta],[gamma] ,[col1]
,[col2] ,[col3]
SELECT [alpha]
,[beta]
,[gamma]
,[col1]
,[col2]
,[col3]
FROM [TEST].[dbo].[Test]
where [alpha]='10100'
My question is why it didn't suggest Clustered INDEX and chose NON clustered index ?
Mudassar

What would you recommend as best quantity Ram. to run Lightroom and Photoshop CC?

What would you recommend as best quantity Ram. to run Lightroom and Photoshop CC?

Hi There,
Kindly check the system requirement for the same.
Photoshop: System requirements | Photoshop
Lightroom: System requirements | Lightroom
Thanks,
Atul Saini

I've ordered adobe for $15 a month 30 days ago and still don't have a key code to unlock the product! Please help

I've ordered adobe Acrobat 9 for $15 a month 30 days ago and still don't have a key code to unlock the product! Please help

Hi mike7373,
I just checked your account; you have two subscriptions to Acrobat Pro (one purchased on October 1, and another purchased today). As no serial number is required to use your subscription, you should be able to download and install Acrobat, and then sign in and use it. If you're getting a specific error when you try to install or sign in to Acrobat, please let us know, and we'll get it sorted out.
Ad for you having multiple subscriptions, I would suggest that you Contact Customer Care and ask that you have one canceled/refunded (unless, of course, you need both of them).
Best,
Sara

What are best practices for managing my iphone from both work and home computers?

What are best practices for managing my iphone from both work and home computers?

Sync iPod/iPad/iPhone with two computers
Although it isn't possible to sync an Apple device with two different libraries it is possible to sync with the same logical library from multiple computers. Each library has an internal ID and when iTunes connects to your iPod/iPad/iPhone it compares the local ID with the one the device normally syncs with. If they are the same you can go ahead and sync...
I have my library cloned to a small 1Tb USB drive which I can take between home & work. At either location I use SyncToy 2.1 to update the local copy with the external drive. Mac users should be able to find similar tools. I can open either of the local libraries or the one on the external drive and update the media content of my iPhone. The slight exception is Photos which normally connects to a specific folder on a specific machine, although that can easily be remapped to the current library if you create a "Photos" folder inside the iTunes Media folder so that syncing the iTunes folders keeps this up to date as well. I periodically sweep my library for new files & orphans withiTunes Folder Watch just in case I make changes at one location but then overwrite the library with a newer copy from the other. Again Mac users should be able to find similar tools.
As long as your media is organised within an iTunes Music or Tunes Media folder, in turn held inside the main iTunes folder that has your library files (whether or not you let iTunes keep the media folder organised) each library can access items at the same relative path from the library folder so the library can be at different drives/paths on different machines. This solution ensures I always have adequate backups of my library and I can update my devices whenever I can connect to the same build of iTunes.
When working with an iPhone earlier builds of iTunes would remove any file not physically present in the local library, even if there was an entry for it, making manual management practically redundant on the iPhone. This behaviour has been changed but it will still only permit manual management with a library that has the correct internal ID. If you don't want to sync your library between machines on a regular basis just copy the iTunes Library.itl file from the current "home" machine to any other you want to use, then clean out the library entires and import the local content you have on that box.
tt2

TS3074 what do you do after you have done all of this and still have not resolved the issue?

what do you do after you have done all of this and still have no resolved the issue? itunes still will not load, or reinstall. i have updated my computers OS to the posted above settings for Vista. still gives error code 1114. NOTE!: My itunes WORKED JUST FINE UNTIL a new update was ready for download yesterday afternoon.

Go to Control Panel > Add or Remove Programs (Win XP) or Programs and Features (later)
Remove all of these items in the following order:
iTunes
Apple Software Update
Apple Mobile Device Support (if this won't uninstall move on to the next item)
Bonjour
Apple Application Support
Reboot, download iTunes, then reinstall, either using an account with administrative rights, or right-clicking the downloaded installer and selecting Run as Administrator.
The uninstall and reinstall process will preserve your iTunes library and settings, but ideally you would back up the library and your other important personal documents and data on a regular basis. See this user tip for a suggested technique.
Please note:
Some users may need to follow all the steps in whichever of the following support documents applies to their system. These include some additional manual file and folder deletions not mentioned above.
HT1925: Removing and Reinstalling iTunes for Windows XP
HT1923: Removing and reinstalling iTunes for Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8
tt2

Library content- I have several apple products... Music and pictures vary on all devices. How do you synchronize?

Library content- I have several apple products... Music and pictures vary on all devices. How do I synchronize and retrieve older content. Thanks

Sync all devices to the same content in your iTunes library.
Older content? What kind? I could type in 2 pages of how to get other things from place to place but won't unless you have more specific questions.

What internet security do you recommend for apple products

What Internet security do you recommend for apple products

None. The best security is to backup your data frequently, and using WPA2 encryption on wireless routers. Otherwise basic good practices include:
1. Do not download sites that suggest installing cleanup software.
2. Do not do things that might slow your Mac down:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-6921
3. Do not install updates except directly from reputable vendors websites, and the Apple Mac Store.
4. Do not follow instructions of popup windows or banner ads.
5. Do not use peer2peer or torrent software.
6. Do not open .scpt, .sct, .app attachments.
7. If you use Windows on your Mac, the same security rules for Windows on a non-Apple machine apply as an Apple machine.

What does everyone recommend for a multi-function machine

We have a small office but need high speed printing and more importantly high speed scanning. We currently have a xerox workcentre that have been decent but is in need of repair. Instead of spending the money on that it is time for a new machine. I would like to stay away from xerox as I called them to help fix current machine and the only advice they would give me over the phone was two power down the machine for 15 seconds. Obviously this did not work and then they wanted $275 for the the 1st 15 minutes for a tech to come out, ridiculous. Anyway, what do you guys recommend? I am looking to spend around $2,500.

Call your local office equiptment service and sales, they can recommend the best product for your circumstances as they have exposure to many different machines and problems.

What do you recommend for me: MacBook Pro, iMac or Mac Pro?

I haven't decided what Mac I should buy. It's pretty hard for me. I'm fascinated with the iMac, MacBook Pro and Mac Pro. But I'm not sure what Mac is good for me. For now, I use my laptop for web browsing, sometimes photoshop and writing stories on notepad. But I'll probably do more later on such as developing 2D games and making music on GarageBand. I might make my own website with podcasts and possibly take advantage of Mac OS X's DVD creation software. I will also dual boot (Windows & Mac OS X which I'll use the most) and play games on it.
Money isn't a real problem. I only have $1,000 at the moment. But I'm going to get a job soon. I won't buy a Mac until the job is stable.
I don't know what to buy and not sure which one is the best for me. I like all 3 of them! I really like portability because I can take it anywhere. But I already have a notebook (not a Mac). I need a Mac that will last me a couple of years. Again, I'm afraid that newer stuff will come out and my computer will be inferior. lol.
So I'm hoping someone can help me come up with a decision. You guys/gals know more about computers than me. I'm new to Macs too. I became interested in Macs last year when I saw the Power Mac G5. I thought the tower looked awesome and then I started playing around with it.

I've never had an iMac wear out. My last one lasted four years and the guy who bought it from me on eBay reports that his is doing fine. It got HEAVY use in a dusty environment.
And Apple has been refining the iMac for years now. I keep hearing you emphasize durability, so that is why I am pushing it for you. No laptop will last as long. They operate at higher temperatures and take a beating. My Mac Book Pro already lost its back-lighting and has something wrong with the DVD eject feature. All repairable for free with Applecare, which I recommend. But my iMac will outlast my desire to own it, this I know for certain. I have the 20 inch and wish I had gotten the 24. If you're interested in my new 20", I will sell it to you for 1/3 off what I paid for it, and it comes with a transferable 3 year Applecare warranty. This way I could purchase the 24". It hadn't come out when I got the 20".
But first, come to the conclusion that you don't need an Apple laptop. That's the threshold decision.
Best of luck to you.

What are hardware recommendations for Forte 4gl 3.0.M.2 under HP_UX?

We are running into performance issues that seem to be related to cpu speed using Forte 3.0.M.2 fully compiled under HP_UX 11 on three server models: HP9000/D370, /D390, and /L1000. We see large numbers of select calls (at the os level) 200-300 in a 15 second interval, that pin cpu usage. On the D370 (Pentium 166MHz) the spikes last for as long as 5-20 seconds and our users are complaining. We have not had complaints (yet) about the D390s (Pentium? approx 240MHz) or the L1000s (PIII? approx 440MHz).
What cpu speed was recommended for 3.0.M.x? We strongly suspect we are expecting too much of the D370 boxes but need supporting information to make our case.

Hi Patrick,
I do not think your problem is CPU-related. What do you mean by select calls? If your select stament is a SQL Select one then what maybe is happening is that your data access methods are no longer effective due to an increse in the volume of data they are now handling. What I would suggest you is to find out which are the methods having problems and then find out what the code does. If you figure out the problem is the volume of data you are handling then you will have to change your code to implement a better data interaction.
Anyways... keep me posted... I will be more than happy in helping you out.

What do u recommend for multimedia production including video, animation, music and stills?

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