White Balance Tint and Temp Adjustment in 2.0

Not to thrilled with this adjustment so far. The 1.5 version seemed to be more granular, permitting finer adjustment. The adjustment in 2.0 seems to be all or nothing.
Otherwise I'm very happy with 2.0.
Anyone else finding the tint & temp adjustment awkward?
Message was edited by: Rusty Rat
Message was edited by: Rusty Rat

The Aperture User Manual (PDF) on p. 332 describes the use of sliders and "value sliders". Value sliders can be adjusted using small or large increments. Click once on the value field, then mouse down and drag to use a value slider. If you hold down the Option key while dragging, the values will change in small increments. If you hold down the Shift key while dragging, the values will change in large increments.
I have no idea why you you are seeing such large changes when you use the regular sliders, but pressing the Option key while using the Temp or Tint value sliders may work around the problem. Good luck, and please let us know if this works.

Similar Messages

Aperture 2 and White Balance Tint

Hello
Has anyone else noticed the huge colour shift when making a White Balance Tint adjustment with AP2 on a new image?
When I make an incremental (1 point) Tint adjustment for the first time on a new image the colour changes dramatically (similar to making a 20 point tint adjustment in one go). Hitting the Reset button and then making further incremental WB adjustments eliminates the problem - and everything is back to normal.
This is happening on both my Nikon D3 and Canon 1DmkIII images, so, I don't think it's a camera specific problem.
Anyone else?

I am having the same issue. Clicking in the value box for Temp or Tint causes a big shift. Using the Temp slider causes the image to go green quite a bit. The eye dropper is not much better. It routinely goes warm by a few thousand degrees or gets a green tint.
I called Apple and walked the tech through the issue and he was able to duplicate it and confirmed it is a bug. It is driving me crazy as I am spending way to much time fussing with white balance.

White Balance tool and Camera Calibration Profiles

Downloaded Lightroom v4 Beta 1 for mac but the installer package failed to launch. (com.apple.installer.pagecontroller error -1.) So I've only watched the adobe tv presentations todate.
Anyway just wanted to give some feedback as a pro photographer about use of Lightroom and improvments I would like to see in the next version.
I am a commercial photographer who needs colour accuracy in photographing fashion/garment images - most of my work is reproduced on a printing press for catalogues and brochures. On average a shoot will yeild about 500 images for a client, so workflow is important as they normally want them all!
As a previous user of Capture One Pro v6 and now lightroom v3.6 - the biggest issue I have with Lightroom is the dominace of red tint when setting the white balance from a gray card reference image, shot at the same time as the images to be processed. I'm not adding anything to the images other than doing a white balance, a tweak on exposure and camera neutral setting on profiles.
To obtain a white balance setting I use the combination of an Xrite white balance card and the Q-Card and the old fasioned Kodak Gray cards all mounted on the same surface. I've used spot and ambient light readings on the gray cards to measure exposure and I've used the Adobe DNG Profiler and the Xrite colour checker profiler with the large colour checker card as a reference, (I've made profiles for sunny days, cloudy days, dual illuminant etc etc) and I'm viewing my images on a colour calibrated apple monitor.
Not withstanding all of the above the best results I get out of Lightroom are using the camera profile neutral setting! Everthing else is just too red!! even though the images do look more punchy; for accuracy of actual colour I choose the camera neutral profile.
Well when I say best results, those for colour critical garment photography and skin tones, these results are similar to those obtained from capture one pro v6.
So for the Lightroom v4 I would like to see.
1. White balance RGB values in numbers rather than percentages.
2. Add and delete a colour readouts points with a dropper tool on an image to enable more acurate colour balancing particularly in shadow areas - (already available on capture one pro and adobe photoshop)
3. Curves adjustments in all RGB channels (think you've done this)
4. Output to CMYK profiles.
5. Individual levels channel adjustment for RGB
6. Ability re-organize my tools palette (add and remove) is per Capture One and Photoshop
Regards

The legacy ACR X.x profiles are no more produced nor included for newer cameras (AFAIK, since ACR 5.1/LR 2.1). The Adobe Standard is the new default starting point for these.
While I am at it....are the Canon camera profiles I downloaded for the 1Ds MKII the same as for the 5D MKII or do I have to download different one...I suspect they are the same or Lightroom wouldn't offer them to me...is that correct?
The profiles are different for each camera model, even if they share the same name in the Calibration panel. If you can see them when developing 5DII files, it means the camera-specific profiles are installed for your particular camera model (otherwise, you wouldn't see them).

I don't know what is going on with the White Balance (WB) and LR. I had no problem before but recently LR started to change the WB as it is importing photos. I checked the color scale for my photos and LR and both are with sRGB. Now instead of LR cha

I don't know what is going on with the White Balance (WB) and LR. I had no problem before but recently LR started to change the WB as it is importing photos. I checked the color scale for my photos and LR and both are with sRGB. Now instead of LR changing the WB it is giving me a second copy with a new WB. Your advise is very much needed and appreciated. Thank you.

Can you show us a screen capture of this 2nd copy with a new WB in your Lightroom grid? Thanks
Are these second copy photos by any chance photos that had been previously imported?

White Balance pipette request for adjustment brushes

Just a suggestion in the hope that this gets introduced..
could we have the white balance sample pipette on the adjustment brush so that it is even easier to apply localised colour correction?
Cheers
Scot

I imagine sample white balance from an image means the same for localised adjustment brushes as it does when using the white balance pipette in the Basic panel.
click the white balance pipette or shortcut key W... move the pipette over an area you expect to be colour neutral, click and voila.. (Temp & Tint sliders adjusted to a neutral balance)
at least that is what I would hope to happen

White Balance Tint Limit When Processing Raw Files

Hi guys, following some recent suggestions I've got hold of some Welding glass to use as an ND filter on my Fuji HS20. It arrived today and works a treat.
I do however now have a new issue that this has caused. I've set a custom white balance on the camera to counter act the tint from the glass. This now produces the correct colour on my jpg photo's however the RAW files have the wrong colour tint.
When I open them in photoshop elements 11 I get the CAMERA RAW application. The white balance is set to 'AS SHOT' however the Tint is at +150. I'm guessing my problem is that the tint needs to be more than +150 and CAMERA RAW is limiting it.
Does this mean I am now limited to using JPG's when I use this glass as an ND filter, or is there a way I can get rid of this limit to the tint on the white balance

filippodallosso wrote:
I have exactly the same problem. The reply is to your question is not what you were asking, isnt it?
The point is that we CAN NOT adjust the white balance as suggested, because the sliders are already at their maximum value when we open the photo in camera raw. We'd need to further increase the tint value (as the photo looks green) but it is by default at 150, so we cannot increase it further.
One way to overcome the limitation of the tint/temp sliders is to save an intermediate tiff or psd file. You can open it in ACR and apply the same maximal slider correction.
For the same purpose, instead of saving an intermediate file, I opened the raw file in the editor. From there, I used the Editinacr script in Elements+ to reopen the layer in ACR (shift f3 and script selection). Same corrections and back as a new layer in the editor. I could repeat the process several times to get a very powerful correction without intermediate files.

HELP White Balance Tint Shift

My white balance brick produces a severe color shift. This just started yesterday after the ProApp 5.1 update. When I make an adjustment in the white balance brick the tint slider is all the way to the right (magenta) and shows a slight green tint. When I set the tint to 0 everything goes green. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling with no success. I'm just about at my last try with this program. I love everything about AP3 but I don't think I can take much more of all the issues. If anyone can offer some support I would greatly appreciate it.

This is a new version, I have never used Aperture before I've been a LR user. I'm certain I'm looking is the correct location, below are the only Plist items that are in the following location <USER>/Library/Application Support/Aperture/
Adjustment Chain
Export
FileFolder
FileNaming
Import
Metadata

Premiere Elements 13 Eyedropper for white balance, gray, and black NOT WORKING. Help!

I'm using Premiere Elements 13.1 on an iMac, and trying to adjust the white balance on a clip with ZERO success. The main reason for this is that I cannot utilize the "eyedropper" selector; I know what should appear white, gray, and black, but cannot select those items.
In the Three-Way Color Corrector there are Eyedroppers to use to specify areas of known color range. I have tried without success to select ANY of the eyedroppers...
I have clicked on it - NOTHING
I have held the left mouse on it and attempted to drag it onto the frame - NOTHING
I have right-clicked it - NOTHING
The eyedroppers are not greyed out and they do respond when clicked. I have hit Reset button galore. I have restarted the program.
I have held my mouth funny - NOTHING :-)
When my cursor is hovering over the tool, it changes to an eyedropper. If I click, nothing happens when the cursor is moved - the cursor changes right back into its regular arrow shape. The cursor does nothing to the image if an item is clicked....there is no change to anything on the monitor.
I am a longtime Photoshop user but new to Premiere Elements. This dropper seems to work nothing like the PS ones. In fact, it doesn't work at all...so far.
Can someone please tell me what I need to do to simply select the eyedropper and take it onto the image and select the white (or gray or black)??? Before I go bananas (may be too late)? THANK YOU!

Still not working. I think the root cause of the problem is the mechanics of using the tool itself; I hope this screen shot shows up below ...
Here I have APPLIED EFFECTS open, and have selected Midtones (Greys) to be expanded so that the eyedropper and other details appear:
Now, just below where it has a box and "Impacted frame area in white" (which I know is a checkbox allowing the area effected to be seen), there is a little color box and an eyedropper.
What EXACTLY do I do to select (activate) the eyedropper and subsequently tell the program what I feel should be grey in the selected clip?
As mentioned before, I can click it and the cursor briefly changes to the same shape as the eyedropper. But as soon as I move the cursor a fraction, it changes back to an arrow (normal cursor) shape. Even then, going to the area I need to select in the image, and then clicking it, does exactly nothing to the appearance of the image shown -- even if the colors start way off. No correction at all. It is as if the tool does nothing. The color wheels below all this DO work however - it's just the eyedropper that doesn't do anything. This just cannot be Adobe's intention. I am convinced there must be some flaw in how I am selecting the tool itself. And the user guide - needless to say - is worthless in explaining the mechanics.
So very frustrating. This appears to be the only thing wrong with the program - nothing else seems amiss.
NOTE: To add insult to injury, this promised white/gray/black balance feature and the three-way-color corrector is the SOLE REASON I purchased the software. Funny.

White balance, Export and shutterfly

I thought I was doing everything right with the holiday family shots: shot RAW, then corrected white balance as needed (often, cool them down slightly) in LR3.3 Develop. A test print (color managed by LR) on my home inkjet looked just like on-screen, color-temp wise. Then, to crank out a stack of 4x6s for family, I Exported jpgs (sharpened for glossy), and uploaded to Shutterfly (actually, Published them using a 3rd-party add-on). The resulting prints from the lab are MUCH warmer than the test prints or screen.
OK, ok, you get what you pay for. But...before I blame one vendor and start trying others: is this Shutterfly et al applying their own corrections? Or is there something I'm overlooking in the Export/Publish stage? TIFF vs JPGs?
This is NOT another "why aren't my prints like the screen" thread -- stuff is calibrated and my prints at home DO look like the on-screen image, thank you.
TIA

Short answer: click lift tool, click photo to transfer from, uncheck adjustments you don't want stamped, click photo to transfer to.
Longer answer:
1. Click the lift tool
2. Hover over a shot you want to copy anything from, and the cursor changes to an upward arrow. Click on the shot.
3. The cursor now changes to a down arrow when over any picture, indicating that Stamp is active. Uncheck any adjustments or other info you do NOT want to stamp, and click on the photo. Checked adjustments will be stamped.
Make sure you choose Add or Replace in the popup to add or replace the adjustments you're stamping (this setting is usually only relevant to metadata for me).
Mark

White Balance - Plug in for adjusting

I forgot to set the white balance on my camera before recording. I remember coming across an AE effect plug-in that will set/adjust the white balance but I cant remember which one it is.
thank You
CS4

There's a list of training resources at http://www.synthetic-ap.com/support/kb/420301.html
To do white balance it's really simple: Apply Color Finesse to a layer. In the effect controls window, click the "Auto Color" button. You're done.
Obviously there's a lot more to Color Finesse, but despite its depth, it's pretty simple for doing simple things.
(Note that Auto Color is new to Color Finesse 3 and CS5.)
Bob Currier
Synthetic Aperture

White balance presets and other random questions

Hi,
I'm new to aperture and I had a few questions:
1) Is there a white balance preset, i.e. daylight, shade etc, or do you manually have to dial these numbers in each time?
2) Is there another color meter aside from the loupe? Something that I can leave on the same spot in the image while I'm trying to correct color?
3) I have roughly 5000 nef images on a second hard drive on my G5, is there a way to keep the library external (like Lightroom), or do I have to reimport all of these images in to aperture's library?
4) Where does the image library like to live – where will it be fastest? Should it be on the startup drive, or is there a speed advantage to putting it on a secondary drive (like photoshop)?
Cheers,
G5 Dual 2.0g Mac OS X (10.4.3) macbook pro 2.0g

Hi Ned(bot?),
1) Unfortunately, no. You have to dial these in each time. If you dial it in for one image you can lift and stamp to others, but it's a bit hit or miss.
2) The color meter is always active -- check near the histogram, it shows the RGB and L values for each pixel... this has been since 1.1.
3) You must import the images into Aperture's library. Note Aperture can have multiple libraries... the only thing is to switch between them you need to make a preference change and re-launch Aperture. For the photos to be accessible from other applications, while inside Aperture's library, you can either make a smart folder which exposes them from the Finder, or you can use a tool like iView Media Pro which can peer inside Aperture's library (which is really just a folder).
4) On a desktop machine, the library will be fastest on the internal drive. On a laptop -- it depends... A Firewire 800 connection to a 7200 RPM disk will be faster than an internal 4200 or 5400 RPM drive... a Firewire 400 connection may be slower. Does your MBP have a 5400 or 7200 RPM internal drive? The latter is better, but the difference won't be colossal.

White Balance - life and stamp - copy and paste????

It is criminal that I cannot figue out how to take the white balance from one image in a project and apply it to another image in a project. I am hunting the lift and stamp directions and all to no avail.
How do I do this? It is easy in C1 Pro or any other converter.

Short answer: click lift tool, click photo to transfer from, uncheck adjustments you don't want stamped, click photo to transfer to.
Longer answer:
1. Click the lift tool
2. Hover over a shot you want to copy anything from, and the cursor changes to an upward arrow. Click on the shot.
3. The cursor now changes to a down arrow when over any picture, indicating that Stamp is active. Uncheck any adjustments or other info you do NOT want to stamp, and click on the photo. Checked adjustments will be stamped.
Make sure you choose Add or Replace in the popup to add or replace the adjustments you're stamping (this setting is usually only relevant to metadata for me).
Mark

Aperture 1.5.2 white balance broken and render it totally useless!!!

I really like Aperture a lot. However, Aperture is totally screwed up in white balance. I have been using Aperture for a few months now, but I don't seem to have found any work-around for its erratic white balance.
I shoot using a Nikon D200. To verify my concern of its erratic white balance setting, I shot a piece of white paper under controlled and commom lighting.
1. 6500K light source. D200 set to 6700K for one shot. Calibrate using the white paper using the custom preset setting and take another shot My D200 always nail the white balance with the custom preset function.
2. About 2650K household incandescent light. One shot with Auto WB setting. Another one with Tungsten -1 setting. Yet one more with 2650K setting.
None of them came out right in Aperture. The white-balance eye-dropper is totally useless. I never can equalize the RGB channel. I open them up in Nikon Capture NX and they are all accurate.
Now how complicated can shooting a white piece of paper get? Is Apple reinnovating white balance? Aperture seems to be the only RAW converter in the world that gets this basic RAW functional totally wrong. Is Canon user having the same problem?
Mac Pro Mac OS X (10.4.9) 3G RAM

The same images out of my D200 looks accurate and fine with Nikon Capture NX. So I doubt that it's a problem of the camera itself.
There are really multiple problems with white balance in Aperture. First, it doesn't interpret the WB setting from NEF raw file correctly. It displays a wrong WB setting to begin with. That asides. Let's assume I don't mind that and have learned to live with it. However, the WB eye-dropper is too erratic. It just refuses to neutralize the point I click on. What's up with that? Lightroom and Capture NX both did it spot on.
I have to admit that Aperture's rendering is slightly better than Lightroom's, but only when I don't need to correct the WB. As soon as I use the WB eye-dropper, it screws it up! This is driving me nuts. I just wasted $300 and a few months of time.
I have started to pray and I'll start going back to church on Sunday if it means it will get fixed...
Can someone from Apple confirm that this problem is being addressed? Switching RAW processor is as expensive as switching camera system. Apple, please, if you're really listening to your customer.
Mac Pro Mac OS X (10.4.9) 3G RAM
Mac Pro Mac OS X (10.4.9) 3G RAM

White Balance Tint

I'll never make a slideshow, but one thing I find myself wanting to do with some frequency is to batch change Tint independent of Temperature.

The Aperture User Manual (PDF) on p. 332 describes the use of sliders and "value sliders". Value sliders can be adjusted using small or large increments. Click once on the value field, then mouse down and drag to use a value slider. If you hold down the Option key while dragging, the values will change in small increments. If you hold down the Shift key while dragging, the values will change in large increments.
I have no idea why you you are seeing such large changes when you use the regular sliders, but pressing the Option key while using the Temp or Tint value sliders may work around the problem. Good luck, and please let us know if this works.

Basic white balance questions

1.) What do you do if you are working on an image that has absolutely no white in it or neutral colors? Maybe the white detail is all washed out, maybe the image is made up of blues, reds and yellows. How do you use the white balance tool in this case?
2.) If you have the option of choosing both a white color or grey color to use the white balance tool on, is there a general rule of thumb for using one over the other? Or do you just try both to see which looks better? Does clicking on white result in a better white balanced image generallly than when clicking on grey?
Thanks.

Jeff Schewe wrote:
Most of the time I don't bother with the White Balance tool and simply adjust the image to taste. But if you do need an "accurate" WB, then it's better to use a non-specular non-blownout white. Grey is too far down the tone scale and can be a bit less accurate.
A non-specular non-blownout white would be best. Unfortunately, such a target is not readily available. The "white" patch of the Colorchecker has a reflectance of about 90% (optical density = 0.05) and is not spectrally neutral, so it is recommended to use the second brightest patch for white balancing with the color checker. It is apparently difficult to make a spectrally neutral white paint. The second brightest patch has an OD of 0.23 (~60% reflectance) and is reasonable spectrally neutral. The darker neutral patches will result in a higher signal:noise in the image, but can work relatively well if your sensor has good noise characteristics, and a darker gray neutral area of an image can be used if a lighter neutral area is not available.
Babel Color used to provide a spectrally neutral white target, but it is no longer being offered. Their web-site FAQ gives useful information on the section on the of a white balancing target. Besides not being spectrally neutral in many cases, the Kodak 18% target is too dark, but can give acceptable results as many photographers have found. The WhiBal target has a reflectance of 50% (OD = 0.32, L* = 75) and is a reasonable choice for white balancing.
http://www.babelcolor.com/main_level/faq.htm#FAQ-white_balance_target

White Balance Tint and Temp Adjustment in 2.0

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