Why won't it manually backup?

I plug my 5s into its cable and launch iTunes. It shows it backed up to iCloud yesterday. I clicked "Back Up Now". The barber pole starts and it reports "Backing up xxx iPhone". iCloud radio button is checked. Under Latest Backups it still reports yesterday backup, not todays. How do I get it to backup manually?

Try ejecting it from iTunes, then reconnect it and see if the iTunes backup data updates. If not, you may need to go to iTunes>Preferences>Devices, select your last backup and delete it, then try backing up again.

Similar Messages

Why won't my iphone backup to the icloud?

I had it checked out at the apple store today. My phone kept crashing at 75% and no one knows why. I was first told to take off all video and extra pics and podcasts to get my "free" up to at least 2 GB. I did that and it kept crashing. I went back the second time to apple store and a scan was done. The guy told me that it is a software issue and I need to back up the phone to the icloud, clear it all off, restore and start over. I was unable to do that. It will not back up to the icloud. So I called them later and asked what else I could do? They first said, drive all the way back (1 hour each way) and they will take another look. So I asked if there was anything I could do at home? He said I could back up to my computer and then restore from there...then go back and back up to the icloud. I restored from computer but it still won't back up to the icloud. I wonder if something was set up wrong for icloud. I remember I had a LOT of trouble setting it up initally...password issues and such. What can I do now? I am out of contract and do not have applecare. Is there a department I can contact or who can help me with this?

Welcome to the Apple Community.
If your back up continually fails, you might try turning off back up on your mobile device (settings > iCloud > storage & backup) and then deleting the backup file from iCloud by swiping the backup file on the mobile device (settings > iCloud > storage & backup > manage…) and then turning back up on again.
Being able to back up to the cloud can be very useful, especially if you don't have access to a computer or have infrequent access to one, however unless you specifically need to use iCloud for back up, you will find backing up to iTunes significantly more convenient and possibly more reliable.

Why won't the bookmark backup or eport window open?

Thanks for blowing me out of the chat que when I waited and became number 1.
I want to move my bookmarks to a new computer. When I try to open those windows, they don't open. The window does open if I want to import. ...
What do I do?

See:
iOS: Troubleshooting applications purchased from the App Store
Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
Restore to factory settings/new iPod

HT1766 Why won't my phone back up since I just bought additional iCloud storage--it spends hours saying "Backup in progress" and then it just fails?!

Why won't my phone back up since I just bought additional iCloud storage--- it spends hours showing "Backup in Progress" and then it just fails?! I have it plugged in next to the computer and I turn it off after hitting Backup but it never completes.... Should I just give up and try to get my money back?

I'm having the same problem with my iPad (3). It's been saying that my last backup was 10/11/2012. I have tried rebooting (holding down the home and start keys to reset) and then trying to manually do a backup to the cloud. I have tried deleting the iCloud backups for all apps & setting all of them to not be included in the cloud backup (thinking that maybe one of the apps might be hanging the backup up). I have now deleted the last iCloud backup. I guess I will wait & see if it performs its backup overnight or something. As mentioned above, it has consistently been 1) plugged in, 2) connected to a wifi network, and 3) been in lock screen mode. And yet it hasn't been backing up either automatically (iCloud Backup is set to "on") or if I touch 'Back Up Now'.
Here's something that's really annoying- these posts started last April but I see no sign that anyone from Apple Support has joined this conversation. (!!)

Why No Manual Backup?

As I'm frustrated with the search engine on the forum I thought I'd start a new thread.
I spent about two days developing images from a shoot in LR2. Decided to backup my work...just in case...
Well, the only way to backup your work is to close lightroom and reopen it and since I had selected the "backup lightroom every time it opens" box in the preferences, when it began to reopen I ran the integrity check and backed it up to a 2nd external drive.
I did not move anything. I simply backed up a catalog I had just closed to a different drive... voila!!!
Work gone... images still there... sans developed settings.
Great software... EXCEPT THERE'S NO MANUAL BACKUP!!!
Why?

Why would one want to save all the minuite detail of each develop steps. e.g Every time you move a slider, exposure +.50; brightness +.25; exposure -10; exposure +5; fill light +30; brightness -25; exposure -45.
So what's the final position exposure +0; brightness +0; fill light +30, this is what LR will apply if you export or save to xmp at this stage, the individual steps you applied to arrive at this position is not important, why would you need to save this information. If you need to save at different stages of your work there is always create virtual copy.

Why won't my encrypted time machine backup mount?

I'm using Time Machine to back up to an external usb drive. I formatted the drive as guid partition table and checked the encryption box when setting up Time Machine. After the initial backup Time Machine won't perform is backup schedule unless I mount the drive manually. It seems to unmount the drive everytime I log out and it just won't mount again.
Thanks for any suggestions!

Learn Time Machine - it is a total backup system and you have to use the TM program to access backups - see http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1427?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US for instructions - you do not directly acces sthe TM backup - you use TM to access it
There is a Time Machine forum for TM questions
LN

Why won't my Western Digital (2TB) My Book for Mac backup to time Machine?

This past fall (2012) I was notified by apple that the hard drive on my 2010 iMac might need to be replaced due to issues. Before doing so I was prompted to back up all of my data with an external hard drive using Time Machine. I purchased a Western Digital 2TB external hard drive and set it up easily. The setup parameters were such that the thing should backup my iMac to Time Machine on the hour every hour. This worked well and also allowed me to restore my user preferences for nearly everything when I got my computer back with its new hard drive. This was around October.
Recently (mid-March), my WD My Book no longer backs up to Time Machine. The computer recognizes the drive, allows me to access it, but will not backup to Time Machine. I have no hypotheses as to why this has started happening, but it just did. I have tried shutting Time Machine off and turning it back on to the particular external hard drive. This has not worked. I have tried to prompt a manual backup, but the computer gets stuck when preparing to back the drive up. It never actually commences the backup.
I understand that just like anything else that things fail. I also understand that sometimes things fail within the first few months of purchase (half a year-ish in my case). I just cannot understand what might be causing it. Any speculation?
Here are some screenshots associated with my current problems:

If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Enter the word "Starting" (without the quotes) in the String Matching text field. You should now see log messages with the words "Starting * backup," where * represents any of the words "automatic," "manual," or "standard." Note the timestamp of the last such message. Clear the text field and scroll back in the log to that time. Select the messages timestamped from then until the end of the backup, or the end of the log if that's not clear. Copy them (command-C) to the Clipboard. Paste (command-V) into a reply to this message.
If there are runs of repeated messages, post only one example of each. Don't post many repetitions of the same message.
When posting a log extract, be selective. Don't post more than is requested.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Some personal information, such as the names of your files, may be included — anonymize before posting.

Why won't icloud merge or backup all my contacts?

Why won't icloud copy all my contacts in Outlook? Some are backed up and merged some aren't!

I had similar problem. This worked for me, hope it helps:
In Mail
Open Preferences>Accounts
Select Advanced tab for the iCloud account
Set Authentication to 'Apple Token'
The Password field on the Account Info tab should now have disappeared.
Mail no longer asks for password every time it launches.
(now i just have to solve why mail launches an upgrade dialogue every single time it opens and then proceeds to try and re-download about 25,000 emails...)
Why the Authentication method suddenly switched when I upgraded ML to Mav who knows, but it seems incredible that no-one at Apple came across this, it's one of their prime apps.
In fact, since upgrading to Mav I've had numerous system wide problems with my iCloud accounts not connecting properly or stably - what on earth are the thousands of engineers at Apple doing?

Why won't my iPhone 3gs create a backup when sync with my new Mac?

When I attempt to backup my iphone 3gs with my new iMac, it syncs fine but won't create a backup. The apps aren't saving on iTunes so I can't upgrade the phone without losing some apps. I never had a problem with my old PC. Is there something I need to do to authorize a backup on the new computer? I already authorized the computer with iTunes so I could play my music, but I must be missing something with the phone. Please help.

try this article
iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Mac OS X
Products Affected
iPad, iPhone, iPod touch, iTunes 10 for Mac, iTunes 8 for Mac, iTunes 9 for Mac
Symptoms
If your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch does not appear under Devices in iTunes after you connect it to your Mac, refer to the troubleshooting suggestions below.
Resolution
Note: This article is for Mac OS X users. If you are using a Windows PC, please refer to iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows.
To begin troubleshooting this issue on your iOS device, first follow the steps in the appropriate troubleshooting assistant below:
iPhone Troubleshooting Assistant
iPod touch Troubleshooting Assistant
iPad Troubleshooting Assistant
If the issue persists after following the troubleshooting assistant, continue with the steps below, testing to see if the issue is resolved after each section.
Ensure that your Mac meets the minimum system requirements for your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch. iTunes 10 and later requires Mac OS X v10.5.8 or later.
Update to the latest version of iTunes and Install software updates on your Mac.
Check USB connections. iOS devices require USB 2.0 to function properly. If you are not sure if your Mac has USB 2.0 ports, refer to the computer's specifications. Disconnect other USB devices, and connect your device directly to a USB port on your Mac.
Restart your Mac.
Mac OS X v10.6.8 or earlier only: Reinstall the Apple Mobile Device Service.
Additional Information
In rare circumstances, your device may be recognized after reinstalling iTunes, but after you restart your Mac, the device may not be recognized again. If this happens, and you are using Mac OS X v10.6 (Snow Leopard), please follow the steps in this article.

Why won't my Mac, with Mountain Lion installed boot up?

I had problems getting my Mac to boot so I made a Genius Bar appointment at my local Apple Store. The ran some tests and discovered a "disk i/o" error which they said indicated that my hard drive needed replacing. Hard drive replaced, brought it home, restarted, set up, Disk Utility run (permission checks out, disk checks out), Time Machine back up loaded and still all I get is the grey screen with the apple logo and the spinning wheel (not beach ball). Why won't it boot up? Any ideas???

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.a. Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at the startup chime, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode by holding down the key combination command-T at the startup chime. Connect the two Macs with a FireWire or Thunderbolt cable. The internal drive of the machine running in target mode will mount as an external drive on the other machine. Copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Boot into Recovery again. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Note: You need an always-on Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to the Internet to use Recovery. It won’t work with USB or PPPoE modems, or with proxy servers, or with networks that require a certificate for authentication.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a backup.
Step 8
A dead logic-board battery in a Mac Pro can cause a gray screen at boot. Typically the boot failure will be preceded by loss of the startup disk and system clock settings. See the user manual for replacement instructions.
Step 9
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

Manual Backup vs Sync Backup

Hi,
Just a little question, I've had to do a manual backup recently and it took quite a very long time to complete. I've noticed that the backup that occurs before syncing the iPhone (4S ios 8.1 in my case) with Itunes (last version) doesn't take that long, and I would like to know why.
- Does it just update the last 'sync' backup with new files ?
- Is it as reliable as a manual backup ?
- does it takes the same size in my computer ?
Thanks,
Matt.
iPhone 4S, iOS 8.1.2

Look under Edit > Preferences > Devices. There is normally only one backup for each device. If/when you restore a backup to a device the current version of it is used for the restore, the backup set is archived with the date of the restore, and a new rolling backup for that device is created. Whether you refresh the backup manually or via the first sync of the day, the overall size of the backup won't vary much unless you have added lots of new data to the device that would be included. Note that if your device normally backs up to iCloud then it is only backed up to your computer if you instigate a backup manually.
tt2

Manual backup does not backup/restore photos or music.

According to HT4946, performing a manual backup of an iOS device (in this case, an iPhone 4S) to a computer should backup basically all settings, all apps, and all user data, including photos and such. This has not been my experience. Background: I work for a mid-size company and support executives that use iPhones. When their devices break, we need to backup their device and then restore the backup to a new device. Even though these are "work phones", they also contain the users' personal photos, music, etc.
Today I went through this process for one of our employees. The power button on his iPhone 4S (64GB running iOS 7.1.2) had broken, so we were going to move him to a new device. I backed up the entire phone to my Mac (Mavericks with iTunes 12.0.1.26) and used the encryption option to make sure passwords were also moved to the new device. The backup completed successfully, so then I plugged in the replacement device (also a 64GB iPhone 4S running 7.1.2) to perform the restore. After the restore finished, all of the apps were there, email worked, contacts were restored, etc., but none of the photos or music had been restored to the device. None. The broken iPhone had about 20GB free, so about ~40 GB of data on it. The backup in ~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup is only <11 GB in size.
Apple's own support documents say that photos are backed up during this process:
What iTunes backs up
Photos (photos, screenshots, images saved, and videos taken) and Saved Photos (in devices without a camera).
So, why are the photos not being backed up and/or restored during this process, when they clearly should be?

This may be caused by a corrupt existing backup that needs to be deleted, or by data on your device that is causing the backup to fail. To troubleshoot these, try deleting your last iCloud backup (if you have one) by turning off iCloud Backup in Settings>iCloud>Storage & Backup, then tap Manage Storage, tap your device under Backups, then tap Delete Backup. Then go back and turn iCloud Backup back on and try backing up again.
If it still won't back up, you may have an app or something in your camera roll that is causing the backup to fail. To locate which one, go to Settings>iCloud>Storage & Backup>Manage Storage, tap the name of your device under Backups, under Backup Options tap Show All Apps, then turn them all to Off (including camera roll) and try backing up again. If the backup is successful, then the camera roll and/or one of your apps is causing the backup to fail and you'll have to located by process of elimination. Turn the camera roll On and try backing up again. If it succeeds, turn some of your apps to On and try backing up again. If it succeeds again, turn some more apps to On then try again; repeat this process until it fails. Eventually you'll be able to locate the problem app and exclude it from your backup.

Why won't my MBP 13.3 Retina start up?

Why won't my MBP 13.3 Retina start up? Bought late 2013. First had problems waking it from sleep. Now when I turn it on, the gray screen comes up with the apple logo and then the wheel spins for a few seconds before the screen turns black. The computer has not been dropped or damaged, but it has been used in a tropical climate.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

My iPod will charge in the computer but not my iPod dock, my sisters iPod dock or the wall charger. My sisters iPod will charge in all and we both have the same sofware and generation. Why won't mine charge?

My Ipod will charge in the computer but noy my iPod dock, my sisters iPod dock or the wall charger. My sisters iPod will charge in all and we both have the same software and generation. Why won't mine charge?

Look the dock connector on your iPod. Look for abnormalities like bent or corred contacts, foreign material and cracked/broken plastic.
Try:
- A reset. Nothing is lost
Reset iPod touch: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears..
- Restore from backup
- Restore to factory settings/new iPod

HT1351 why won't my ipod nano sync automatically anyone? I got a new laptop, authorized it, but can no longer sync music. right now there is no music at all on my nano. Hellp!

Hi
Bought a new laptop and can't sync anymore. I enabled my laptop...should be all set. But, my nano now has no music on it! My music library shows up in itunes. Why won't music sync to my nano?
Help!!argh

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Unsync/delete all music and resync
To delete all music go to Settings>General>Usage>Storage>Music>Tap edit in upper right and then tap the minus sign by All Music
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: Back up and restore your iOS device with iCloud or iTunes
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

Why won't it manually backup?

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