600EX-RT on 7D

I have a 7Dand also a 600EX-RT. I am wanting to know that if I buy another 600EX Flash will it work with the radio transmitter on the 7D instead of buying a ST-E3-RT and then another flash later? I am looking for advice and/or suggestions. Thanks

Some time ago I had similar questions about what doesn't  work with the 600EX-RT and the EOS 7D I wrote a blog post with my results
http://www.p4pictures.com/2012/07/using-the-speedlite-600ex-rt-with-pre-2012-eos-cameras/
Brian / p4pictures
Canon specialist trainer, author and photographer - http://www.p4pictures.com

Similar Messages

  • Getting 600EX-RT slave to fire only via Pop-up Flash

    I have a 600EX-RT set up as slave and contolled by 60D using pop-up flash.  I have the 60D settings set for the slave to fire only as per pages 140-141 of the 60D manual.  However, in this setting the pop-up flash will still fire.  At the end of page 141, it says "Even if you disable the built-in flash from firing, it will still fire to control the slave unit".  Is there no way to disable the pop-up from flashing?  Otherwise you never really get single off camera flash.  Thanks.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Is there no way to disable the pop-up from flashing?  Otherwise you never really get single off camera flash.  Thanks.
    Not if you want to trigger an off camera slave because it uses the pop-up flash as the means of triggering the slave. 
    Yes you do get single off camera flash because even though the pop-up flashes, it is only a pre-flash to trigger the slave.  In this configuration the pop-up does not contribute to the actual exposure, this all happens before the shutter opens.

  • Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

    I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

    Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
    The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.  
    Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off".  It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light.  Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark.  OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed.  (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
    The amount of fall-off is based on the relative distance from the light.  Every time the distance increases by a factor of 1.4 the amount of light is cut in half.  This means if you have subject 10' away, but you have a foreground object only 7' away and a background object 14' away, and the flash is exposed for the subject at 10', then the foreground object will be over-exposed (with twice as much light as needed) and the background will be under-exposed (with half as much libght as needed.)  Incidentally... if you "double" or "halve" the distance then the light difference will be 4x or 1/4 (depending on if you are getting closer or farther.)
    Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand.  If it seems confusing at first... stick with it.  The video is only 12 minutes long.
    In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject). 
    If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.  
    When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
    To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode).  Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second.  Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).  
    The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly.  However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway.  What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
    The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open.  But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.  
    Here's why:  The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant.  If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions.  If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
    Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second.  Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
    One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject.  You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases.  But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
    The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Speedlite 600EX-RT on 60D in HSS using RT in Master/Slave configuration

    I have 2 new 600EX flashes to go with my 60D.  In reading the manual, it says you cannot use the flashes off-camera in RT mode with HSS.  I didn't want to believe that so kept playing with things.  It appears I may have found a way to do it but I want to know if anyone else has tried this.  I went into the camera menu under Flash Control, selected the External Flash Func Setting option and changed the Shutter sync to Hi-speed.  I have one 600 mounted on-camera and set to Master and one 600 off-camera set as slave using RT.  I was able to use shutter speed > 250.  Please lmk if anyone else has done this and if it worked for them.  Thanks!

    I've seen the same statements and also found that even using radio mode you can set the high speed sync from the camera menu in my case on a 7D. 
    In fact I wrote a whole great article on all the things you "can't do with a pre-2012 EOS" and how some of them do indeed seem to work at least when you only have a couple of slaves. I've also recenlty discovered something that the old cameras can do with pulsed light off-camera flash but can't do with radio flash too...
    Some links
    http://www.p4pictures.com/2012/07/using-the-speedlite-600ex-rt-with-pre-2012-eos-cameras/
    http://www.p4pictures.com/2013/01/radio-speedlite-flash-the-missing-feature-for-older-cameras/
    Brian / p4pictures
    Canon specialist trainer, author and photographer - http://www.p4pictures.com

  • 600EX RT dual masters?

    I was using 4 600EXs last night for the first time. My normal setup is two camera each with a speedlight set as master and two slave flashes on stands. In the past I've used Radiopoppers and have had no problem with each camera's flash being a master. I immediately notieced with the 600EX though that which ever one was turned on first as master it gets the green link light and the second one gets the yellow problem link light. 
    Does anyone know if there can only ever be one master with the 600EX?
    I'm using 5Dmk2's and not mk3's. I know the group function might be different but that doesn't work on the mk2. So I'm using the standard ol' master/slave functionality. Would you be able to set up dual masters in the group function using a mk3?
    Any help apprciated. This is a deal breaker for me. I run it this way so I can one long camera one wide and with both masters set the same can get nearly any shot at any moment in the room. Will be difficult/impossible to change my working style because of this. Too bad too because I really like the light/power or the 600EX. 

    Group mode is so fun to use, it's become my default solution. I did a shoot at the weekend, and used a pair of 600EX-RTs in the background of the picture aimed at the camera, with a main light in E-TTL up front in a softbox. I can increase or raise the power of the back lights or switch them on/off all from the ST-E3. While you can do the manual and E-TTL trick with the old pulsed light system, you need to set manual and power level on each manual flash, this means more walking round making changes and less flow in the shoot.
    I find that manual is the way to go when aiming flashes back at the camera.
    I've used a 5d2, but never been a fan of the 5d1/5d2. I tended to use 7d/1d cameras instead, but when 5d3 came out I bought one of the first I could get. To me it's a way better all-round capable camera than the old 5d2. Image quality is a little better but the AF is way better. I have shot kickboxing from the ringside with a 50mm f/1.2L and no flash at ISO 6400 and it works great. I've also shot world rally cars in the dust of Finland in the summer, no problems.
    So if you're close to thinking the 5D3 is for you then group mode is a real nice feature to get (also works on EOS 650D/T4i, 1D X and EOS M) and the rest of the camera performance, AF, drive speed, sealing is a step forward too. I've found that with the 5d3 I do less focus and recompose and instead use the rear joystick to move AF points around the frame and shoot that way - the AF is so much more capable. Just set it to only allow you to use the cross-type points.
    Brian
    Canon specialist trainer, author and photographer - http://www.p4pictures.com

  • 600EX Flash - 5D III. Flash exposure compensation.

    How can I set the FLASH exposure compensation from the CAMERA. It appears that I have to set the exposure compensation on the back of the flash unit. I would like be able to change the FLASH EC settings from the camera, not the flash unit.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Ok, I have my 5D III out with my 600EX-RT mounted.
    Let's make sure you don't have terminology confused.
    There are two different compensations... there's "explosure compensation" and "flash exposure compensation".
    If you meter exposure with the camera and then use the rear dial (assuming you did not disable it) after waking up the metering system then the rear dial will change the "exposure" compensation (this changes the metering for the AMBIENT light reading that the camera reads -- ignoring the flash).  So changing "exposure compensation" will not change the flash even if the flash is powered on and connected.  It would only change the camera.
    On the top of the camera, just in front of the top LCD screen, there are four buttons.  One has a dimple on it.  That button is the ISO & "flash exposure compensation" button.  If you press that button, then the rear LCD screen should show you that the rear dial will control "Flash exposure comp."    Turning the rear dial at that point will make the adjustment show initially ONLY on the camera LCD screen... UNTIL you press the 'Set' button in the middle of the dial.   Once you do that, the rear LCD screen on the flash will show that you have the flash exposure compensation enabled (it will ONLY show this when you wake up the metering system... if the metering system is allowed to go inactive the flash will only display the netural compensation... but as soon as you re-activate metering it will display your exposure compenation as set on the camera.
    Also... on the rear LCD screen there's a box just below the ISO setting that shows if you have flash exposure compensation set and the amount.
    This is all being controlled only by the camera -- I'm not using the menu buttons on the flash itself.  
    IF I DO use the buttons on the flash to set flash exposure compensation then the camera is locked out.  It will report what compensation has been set on the flash, but will not let me change it until I use the buttons on the flash to return it to 0.
    Does that help and are you able to do this with your flash?
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • More 600EX-RT/Battery questions...fun!

    Greetings all!
    I've seen several discussions about batteries and the flash, but I'm just trying to get the "definitive" answer
    I've got two 600EX-RT's. The first one died on me at Christmas last year. While shooting, I discovered that the batteries became hot...really hot. The next time I tried to turn on the flash...nothing. Brand new batteries did nothing.
    I had some extra money at the time and my flash was almost 2 years old so I bought a new 600 in January. While shooting with it about a month ago, the same thing happened. The batteries got so hot that, after I took them out and put them into my pants pocket I had to take them out because they were burning my leg!
    That flash was still under warranty, so I sent it in and it's fixed now.
    I have always used non-rechargable batteries...and I've used the Duracel Ultimate, for the most part...or the Eveready version. Don't remember the name, but I've always bought the "strongest, longest-lasting" type of whichever brand, on the theory that "The stronger the bettery, the longer it'll last".
    Are rechargeable batteries better for the 600EX-RT? Are they worse? What's the Straight Dope?

    TCampbell wrote:
    I use rechargeable Eneloop batteries.
    Eneloops are low-self-discharge.  A regularly rechargeable battery will drain merely sitting unused at a fairly quick rate... quickly enough that a few weeks after charging it will have lost quite a bit of power.  A low-self-discharge battery has a shelf like almost like a non-reusable battery... a year after charging they still have about 90% of their charge.
    That means if you charge up some batteries to be prepared for the next time you need them...  you don't have to worry that they'll be very low or drained the next time you need them.
    I too use Eneloops - the black professional series. My experience so far suggests that their low-self-discharge characteristics are somewhat exaggerated: they appear to lose power on the shelf at about the same rate as the "Enercells" sold by Radio Shack. But the Eneloops have been very reliable.
    But I am a bit worried about these batteries becoming "hot".   When batteries are either charging or draining, they'll get a little "warm" but generally not "hot".  Usually "hot" means you're draining the batteries very quickly.  Were you running the flash hard?   If you _do_ need to run the lights hard (rapid fire and high power levels) you can split the load across multple flashes (there are mounts that will let you cluster 3 or even 6 flashes on one stand.)
    All modern Canon speedlites are supposed to automatically shut down for a few minutes if the flashtube starts to overheat. (I've had it happen to me.)
    But batteries overheating are a different matter. A battery overheats when the current flowing through it is too high. What may be happening is that as the batteries deplete, they may be unable to maintain their rated voltage (usually 1.5 volts each for non-rechargeables). The light, which expects to consume a given amount of power (watts) to recharge itself, may be forcing the batteries to deliver that power by increasing their current flow. (Remember that watts = volts x amps.) The batteries should be able to resist that demand, forcing the light to recharge more slowly (or not at all). But if they can't, they will overheat.
    Fill disclosure: I'm not an electrical engineer. So the first person who identifies himself as one should probably be listened to instead of me.
    Bob
    Boston, Massachusetts USA

  • 600EX-RT and Hi Speed Sync with 5D MKIII.

    I'm reading conflicting comments on use of hi speed sync with the 600EX-RT and aperture priority.  Will the MKIII do so?  Or do I need to go to manual?  Also, will the ST-E3-RT transmitter allow hi speed sync with MKIII in aperture priority and the 600EX-RT on hi speed sync???  Shouldn't have to buy pocket wizards, etc with this nice equipment.  Any tips appreciated.
    SW

    Hi SteveW!
    Thank you for posting about this.
    High-Speed Sync is possible using any combination of the Speedlite 600EX-RT, Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT and EOS 5D Mark III.  What you may be referring to as far as the AV mode is concerned is the [Flash sync speed in AV mode] setting in the [External Speedlite control] menu of the camera.  This has to be set to [Auto] to allow High-Speed Sync to be used.
    Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

  • Mastering the Speedlite 600EX-RT with Syl Arena Tutorial Videos

    Last spring, Canon revolutionized the world of small flash. The 600EX-RT Speedlite and ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter are the first flash system with two-way radio-capabilities built into the gear.
    Syl Arena, author of Speedliter's Handbook and Lighting for Digital Photography, was the first photographer in the world to blog a hands-on video evaluation of the 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT. Over the past eight months he has continued to put the new gear to the test in a wide range of conditions. In this fast-paced presentation from December 19, 2012 at the Canon Hollywood Professional Technology and Support Center, Syl shares his insights and tips about how to push out the boundaries of flash photography with the new Canon Speedlite system.
    Click here to view the eight videos on Mastering the Speedlite 600EX-RT with Syl Arena.

    I agree! I attended Syl's Speedliter's Intensive in November 2012 in Houston, Texas, and repeated in Austin, Texas in May 2013. Syl is a wonderful teacher, and I would like to attend one of his longer workshops in the future.
    Syl's book on Speedliting pre-dates the 600EX-RT, but the principles of lighting remain the same, and his blog and on-line tutorials are an excellent way to stay up-to-date on the newest technology.

  • Triggering 600ex with another ST-E3 with a ST-E3

    Hi,
    i am two 600ex-rt and two st-e3.
    with 2 st-e3, I know I can trigger the 5D3 to take photo wirelessly using a st-e3 on the 5D3 and hand holding the other st-e3. with this setup in mind, can i also trigger a 600ex-rt to fire off too along with the click of the shutter on the 5D3?
    thank you
    Scott
    http://www.scottgohphotography.com.au/home
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    TCampbell wrote:
    The slave tells the master to fire, the master then tells the camera to take the shot and the whole thing plays out just as if I had used the on-camera shutter in that the camera does all the E-TTL II stuff (metering & pre-flash metering, set's power levels on the strobes, and then takes the shot.)  Both flashes fire. 
    That's pretty handy.  I'd prefer a dedicate shutter remote so I can keep my flashes off-camera, but in a pinch it's nice to have that flexibility.

  • 600EX-RT--Need some good, quick settings!

    Greetings everyone!
         I've got a not-very-difficult-to-solve problem..but perhaps a new situation to which it applies
         I've got two Speedlite 600EX-RT's. I bought the second when the first stopped working. The second one stopped working as well. Sent it in for warranty work and it's fine. So I sent the first one in as well. It's in the shop right now.
         The issue is this: I'm leaving town this coming Tuesday for San Diego to shoot pics at Comic-Con. I'm comfortably certain there's no way that my flash will be reparied and sent back to me here in Alaska by Monday night.
         Now the potential saving grace...the repair office is only 86 miles from San Diego!  So there's a possibility I can drive and pick it up in person
         Now the problem (Sorry for the long-windedness): The whole reason I want this flash reparied is to use as a portable off camera flash setup. And Comic-Con is where I really want to do this. But I've never worked with two flashes like this before.
         So...what are the "best" settings to use for this setup? I'm envisioning the on-camera being just the transmitter, no flash. And I'm most comfortable using E-TTL. So, since I will have almost no time to play around with this before Go Time, what settings do I need to use for the on-camera "transmitter" and the off-camera flash?
         The "good" news is that this is just me, not a paying/pro gig, so there's no pressure to perform, apart from my desire to get quality shots for people.
         Thanks a ton in advance for any help you fine folks can provide!
    P.S.- I do have the manual...what I'm looking for are "For Dummies" explinations and anything that's not in the manual

    nuncle wrote:
         While wandering around inside, I use either no flash with the white balance adjusted, or I bounce my on camera flash, for the most part.
    Just remember, white balance won't fix the difference between fluorescent and your flash (which is essentially the color of daylight).  If you set the white balance for the flash then anything exposed by ambient will be a sickly green color.  If you set for ambient then your subject will be magenta.  I'd pick up a Roscoe sample book.
    Also, don't rely on being able to bounce.  Bouncing is great, when the room allows it.  But if you don't have low white ceilings or a big white wall you might run into problems.  Isn't in the SD convention center?  The big glass one?
    nuncle wrote:
    So, if you were outside, with either bright sun or partly cloudy (That was the weather there every day last year), with the two flash setup, what would you use for settings?  
    So, am I correct that you're going to be asking people to pose for you?  As opposed to taking quick candids of whoever walks by?
    In bright sun I'd probably just keep the flash on-camera in and hope for the best .  If the sun is hitting your subject straight on then you'll need a bare flash shooting straight at them just to try to fill for the sun.  In this situation you're actually better off with a reflector and/or scrim (translucent shade held between sun and subject).  But both of those require assistants.  Direct sun is harsh, not great for shooting.
    If the sun isn't directly overhead and you can get your subjects back to the sun, then you can get some real nice shots with just a single fill.   An off-camera flash in a softbox is great, but it has limitations:  it might not be strong enough, you have to get your subject to pose up close to the modifier, you lose the freedom of movement with on-camera flash, and umbrellas in outdoor situations tend to blow over, a lot.   It's worth a shot if you want to give it a go, but I'd bring sand bags, and be prepared to scrap the whole setup and go on-camera if it doesn't work out.  Put a big white bounce card on your flash and let er rip.   If the flash isn't strong enough to match the background with the bounce, then just shoot direct. 
    Now, if I could find a some decent shaded area, or it's overcast enough, then optimally I'd set up my key in the umbrella (sand bags!) just off to one side and keep my on-camera flash dialed way down (2-3 stops).  Actually, using the bounce card on the on-camera will help diffuse the light and you don't need it too strong anyway.   If you had a way to get both flashes off camera I'd go with a standard high-key lighting setup.  Lights on each side at 45 degrees, drop one of them 1 stop below the other.
    One note about eTTL.  The pre-flash can make people blink.  It's also inconsistent, moreso when working as fill.  If you're going to set up lighting and have people pose, then I'd just shoot in manual.  If you're shooting on-camera and trying to be quick, then eTTL is the way to go.

  • Compact Battery Pack CP-E4 to Speedlite 600EX-RT will not power on.

    I attached the Compact Battery Pack CP-E4 to my Speedlite 600EX-RT and it will not power on. The battries are fully charged. The flash works with the battries installed in the flash unit. Is there some thing else that I am suppose to do?

    Hi Tazdog!
    Thank you for posting about this.
    When using the CP-E4 with the Speedlite 600EX-RT, it is still necessary to have batteries inside the battery compartment of the flash.  The flash needs internal power to function and allow you to control the flash.  With the CP-E4 connected, it will draw power from it and the internal batteries to recycle the flash.
    Even though internal power is necessary, you can still set the flash to draw the recycling power from the CP-E4 only by changing Custom Function 12 to [1:External power only].
    This didn't answer your question or issue? Find more help at Contact Us.
    Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

  • Canon 600EX RT

    Sadly, I have yet to find the "perfect" solution for off camera flash using speed lights. I've been through RadioPoppers (an early adopter), thru PocketWizard TT5 (also an early adopter) and am now using the Canon 600EX RT and transmitter.  Each of these have had their annoyances.
    First a question:
    Can the 600EX RT focus assist beam be turned up?  
    It has been awhile (not since the days of using RadioPoppers) since I last put a 580EX II on camera and used the AF assist to help me shoot weddings and other events.  I don't remember ever feeling aggravated that I couldn't focus in the dark, the AF assist always seemed to work flawlessly for me.  
    Last weekend I shot an event (not terribly dark, lots of disco lights flashing, nothing unusual, really) using the Canon 5D Mark III with the 600EX RT on camera and I had a terrible time focusing.  It was embarrassing.  Not just the dancing (where everyone is moving - which has never really been challenging before), but even some of the portraits I did (meaning people holding still / posing for the camera) with the lighting going on in the background were VERY hard to focus.
    I've been through Canon 1DIII, 5D, 5DII and 5DIII with Canon 580EX, 580EXII and now the 600EX and this is the first time I've really felt like I was having a hard time focusing at an event.
    A side question, WHY didn't the transmitter come with a focus assist beam?  I bought two transmitters because I generally run two cameras simultaneously with several speedlights positioned around the room.  But I have to give up at least one of my speedlights when shooting events in order to get AF assist. 
    When I was using the PocketWizard TT5, it also didn't have AF assist. But what it did have as a hotshoe.  So I put a video light in the hot shoe and used the video light to help me focus during events.  I didn't really like lighting people up with a video light - but at least it didn't cost me another speedlight to get focus assist.  
    However, the RT transmitter not only doesn't have AF assist, but it also doesn't have a hotshoe.  So I'm left wondering where to attach my video light and ended up having to use a speedlight instead.  I verified that the focus assist beam was working (I could see it lighting up people's faces), but it was very dim compared to what I remembered of my old 580, 580EX and 580EXII assist beams.
    So there's my question... can I turn up the power of the beam?
    And ultimately... can we get a transmitter that has built in AF assist?
    NEXT REQUEST:
    The thing that I absolutely LOVE about the TT5 is the AC-3 Zone Controller.  With 3 physical sliders and 3 physical dials, I can very quickly, in the dark, set any light off or on - ettl or manual and at whatever power level I wanted (ettl or manual).  
    With the RT transmitter, you have to wade thru CONTEXT SENSITIVE MENUS - one wrong push of a button and it takes you several more pushes just to get back to where you need to be. And then turning a light on or off requires getting into the right part of the menu, scrolling up or down to get to the correct group, pushing another button to toggle on or off or another button to select the power level and more buttons to turn the power levels up or down.  The entire process is TEDIUS and ERROR PRONE which creates huge delays (as compared to the TT5 which, with the flick of a switch changed to the exact setting I wanted and I could do it with my eyes closed).
    So my request, for the future, is ... can we get a transmitter that has real buttons and sliders to control the power levels?  The LCD is uber cool ... but tedius.  
    Now I'm not claiming theTT5 is perfect.  I would not have switched to the 600 if I thought it was. But my point at the beginning is valid.  I have yet to find the "perfect" off camera flash control system.
    Thanks.

    Well I read your post a few times. I picked up a Canon 5D3 about 6 weeks ago and a 600 last week. Last evening I did a bunch of shooting in dark rooms and the combo seemed to perform well. Seemed pretty bright to me. I have not been in the field with disco lights yet so I can't comment. I will have to go to a non-important event for further testing. 
    I can see losing AF focus assist being a pain especially for you with 2 cameras. Gets expensive to tie up two 600 units so you can have focus assist. If I set up additional flashes I normally have a flash on my camera and bounce if I can. I typically only have two extra flashes going at this point but it sounds like you have more. I shoot with two cameras as well. Not sure where I will go with this. I just may just keep my 580 for my crop and 70-200 combo, go solo and use the 600 and other flashes for the 5D3, 24-70 and additional flash combos. Wider coverage. Of course if I'm doing portraits the flash is off camera and there is always enough ambient light. Here is where I will enjoy this unit. Being able to adjust all the flashes from the ST-E3-RT. Hopefully Canon will respond with focus assist.
    My gripe was how to fire the flashes remotely with my Sekonic L-358. I use a PCB trigger attached with Velcro to the L-358 and receivers at the flash/es. I asked for some suggestions on other sites and a simple solution came up. Walk around with the transmitter and use the test fire button. Two things in hand but I can always hang the L-358 around my neck.  I'm hoping Sekonic or someone comes up with a Canon transmitter module. Currently it only works with PW.
    I posted a question on this forum - my first. I wanted to know if I connect a receiver in the remote release terminal of the ST-E3-ER and fire it from the transmitter attached to my L-358. I don't have a ST-E3-RT yet - I'm about to order it. Since I am trying to get away from third party RT I don't need an answer to that. I'll just use the test button until something better comes up like a Canon transmitter module for a sekonic light meter.
    Now there are three improvements required. 
    Website

  • Speedlite 600EX-RT with exposure issues using ETTL

    I have 6D and 40D and couple of days a go I started to have a problem with low exposure when I'm working on ETTL with my Speedlite 600EX-RT. On manual it gives full power, i can adjust the flash output but theres no changes on the power.
    I done reset at the flash, changed the batteries and all the same. 
    Any suggestions? 

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