Bad soldered in RAM? Repair or replace options?

I have an old iBook G4 that froze up and didn't recover. After it froze I tried to reboot with no luck, it just freezes during the boot-up process. Soooo, I ran a hardware test with the CD and of course everything is great, the only concern is that when it tested the RAM the screen went fuzzy for awhile and then came back- not sure if that is normal. I tried to re-install OS and it froze halfway through that. I rebooted in target disc mode and drug all my files off onto my desktop and called it a night.
From what I can gather, because it freezes even with the install CD that it is a hardware issue, not a software problem. And since it boots fine in target disc mode the hard drive seems to be fine. Freezing usually means not enough RAM, so I am guessing that the RAM is bad, but in this case it is soldered in. If I add more RAM but don't remove the old will it still give me grief? Or is this a factory repair job, or is it even worth that? What are my options? Thanks!

...the only concern is that when it tested the RAM the screen went fuzzy for awhile and then came back- not sure if that is normal.
I believe what you saw was actually the video RAM test, not the system RAM test. The video RAM test does send all sorts of different colored screen configurations through the video system. You will see several multi-colored screens and this is normal.
I would suggest you run the hardware test more than once. On some hardware test software, you can press "option - L" (or it might be "control - L") to set the software in "loop" mode (the text "loop mode" will appear). Leave it running in loops over night. An error may not be caught in the first run or even the second run.
-Doug

Similar Messages

Repair vs replace option when MBR is probably bad?

I could use some assistance getting the Thinkvantage & F11 buttons working again. Fn and Thinkvantage buttons work correctly when booted into Windows as does the R&R software, but will not go into the recovery partition when booting the machine.
The blue Thinkvantage button will only show a "Startup Interrupt Menu" with three options: pressing ESC to resume startup normally, F1 to enter the BIOS or F12 to load the boot menu.
I ran the MBR repair floppy (the CD ISO I found reported errors on download & burn with 2 different programs), but it said that the MBR might not be from Lenovo and did apparently did nothing. Should I try the replace option instead of repair? What will that do and will it affect my disk partitions?
I did repartition the C drive into multiple C, D, & E drives, but did not change or move the service partition which I can see in disk management. This was all working until I booted the machine with an old drive in the SATA ultrabay. Windows went wacko getting drive letters confused and kind of merging the boot from both drives. I got that fixed and the preboot environment is all thats left to resolve.
Thanks a lot

Everyone is different, and sometimes people have sentimental attachments to systems that override what makes economic sense to most people... Most techs I know use a 50% threshold. If repairing is going to cost more than 50% of a new system, it's probably not worth fixing.
USUALLY in these cases systems are 2-3 years old or more, so people can at least take comfort in the fact that they're getting a better overall system. In your case, you don't have that, so the threshold for repair vs replace should maybe be more around 75%. But from some of the liquid damaged systems I've seen, and estimates I've written up... I don't think you'll have that big of an issue making a decision. Bare minimum they'll probably have to replace the logic board. There's also a good chance the display is damaged, and replacing the battery after liquid damage is generally a good idea, just to be safe. There's a good chance the repair costs would exceed the cost of a new system.
And for the record, you did about all you could given the circumstances. The damage was done the moment the liquid came in contact with the circuitry. There's really nothing you can do with liquid spills except clean things up as best you can and hope for the best.

I tower sharper image ipod connector bad .Can this be repaired or replaced

I have a sharper image Itower model # S1353 and it will not play. My kid said someone fell into it while it was playing and messed up the ipod jack in the tower. Nice unit can it be repaired and where can I get a new pod jack for this? thanks

Sorry, but I doubt that you can get it fixed. Sharper Image is out of business (the current company bought the rights to the name, but is not the same company and provides no service for products sold by the former SI) and left no information I can find on any possible repair services. You can try to look for an electronics repair service in your area and see if they could perhaps replace the jack, but my suspicion is that it would cost more to repair than to just buy something else.
Regards.

X230T - Broken Screen - Replacement Options?

Lenovo Thinkpad X230T (3437 CTO) As you can see, I had an accident. I bought this tablet just a few weeks ago for engineering school, and the screen is totally shattered. I contacted Lenovo about my 3 year warranty status, and how to go about repairing the machine, however they informed me that my $100 warranty does not cover accidents. They said it would be $750 to fix it, which isn't possible for me. I need to repair it myself. However, this leaves me with a few questions. The screen is a 12.5 inch multitouch display. I am not sure how the touch components and display components operate. Are they combined into a single unit, or is the screen display a seperate component? I have plugged the tablet into another moniter via DVI cable, and it is fully functional, INCLUDING THE TOUCH SCREEN CAPABILITIES! After some research I have found this replacement option: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/IBM-Lenovo/THINKPAD~X230~TABLET~3437/ However, that model number is only 3437, not 3437-CTO. I'm not sure if that matters, but I don't believe so. Even the 220's appear to use the same screen technology. If I were to buy this screen and replace the broken one, would the touch screen capabilities still function? Would that component come with the unit I ordered, or would the already functioning touch screen remain seperate and intact? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been an extremely stressful few weeks, and this has added a huge punctuation mark to that. Thanks

rigatron wrote:
Lenovo Thinkpad X230T (3437 CTO) As you can see, I had an accident. I bought this tablet just a few weeks ago for engineering school, and the screen is totally shattered. I contacted Lenovo about my 3 year warranty status, and how to go about repairing the machine, however they informed me that my $100 warranty does not cover accidents. They said it would be $750 to fix it, which isn't possible for me. I need to repair it myself. However, this leaves me with a few questions. The screen is a 12.5 inch multitouch display. I am not sure how the touch components and display components operate. Are they combined into a single unit, or is the screen display a seperate component? I have plugged the tablet into another moniter via DVI cable, and it is fully functional, INCLUDING THE TOUCH SCREEN CAPABILITIES! After some research I have found this replacement option: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/IBM-Lenovo/THINKPAD~X230~TABLET~3437/ However, that model number is only 3437, not 3437-CTO. I'm not sure if that matters, but I don't believe so. Even the 220's appear to use the same screen technology. If I were to buy this screen and replace the broken one, would the touch screen capabilities still function? Would that component come with the unit I ordered, or would the already functioning touch screen remain seperate and intact? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been an extremely stressful few weeks, and this has added a huge punctuation mark to that. ThanksThe replacement screens you found are $63 and $90 and Lenovo would charge you $750 for the job? Wow...They look like a very greedy company, if I add this to the ridiculous amount they charge to put 16GB RAM in a machine, compared to what you can get when buying from other vendor and doing the swap yourself...

Can I get technical support (repair or replacement) under warranty for my iPhone 5 in Russia?

Can I get technical support (repair or replacement) under warranty for my iPhone 5 in Russia?
<Personal Information Edited by Host>

http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_Kingdom&product=iph one
Pick your Country from the country drop down menu for all your
service options ( there is also a language choice )

Badly behaving iPad, out of warranty. Options?

So my iPad has developed an annoying fault. Basically, the reset button is acting like I'm constantly pressing it, when I'm not. It asks me to go to sleep, and then can wake up from a sleep. It also constantly takes screen grabs when I push the home button. If I fiddle with the reset button a bit, the problem goes away.
My local Apple store, isn't run by Apple & there's nothing else in my state.
The problem isn't so annoying, that I want to buy another one & just junk the current model, but that seems to be the only option I've got.
Its especially annoying, in that this was a January 27th present for my birthday (last year), and I wasn't able to establish its purchase date, until after everything had expired. (Good reason to keep those purchase slips people. Apple doesn't keep track down to the week, apparently.)

Ok, when you say reset button are you refering to the sleep/power button or the home button? In either case they are not user repairable. So your options are (1) live wth it, (2) take/send to Apple authorized repair where they will repair or replace for a fee, (3) buy a new iPad. The best option from my point of view is number 2. Talk to Apple if there isn't a store close, http://www.apple.com/contact and see where you can send it for evaluaiton. Then make the choice when they tell you what it will cost to repair or replace.

WRVS4400N Replacement Options

Hi, I purchased a WRVS4400N Router from NewEgg it was semi-DOA. It didnt turn on right away and after a few hours of plugging it in and unplugging it I got it to come on. I believe the board is bad however it did start working so I just went with that as I couldn't go without the router. Anyways I no longer have the original packaging so NewEgg wont take it back. Do I have any replacement options with Linksys and can I have them send me out a new one first then I ship them the bad one. I know I can do this with Netgear btu I'm not sure about Linksys. I have a hard enough time getting the basic understanding of what's wrong with it to the foreign tech-support they offer via the phone so I figured I'd come here. Also Linksys if I spell my name out to you and pronounce it please don't mispronounce it and call me Rackey when I told you and spelt it out for you as Ricky.

No one has any ideas?

Do i have a bad batch of ram or a bad riser card?

I recently took my mac pro 3.1 up to 16 gigs of ram in 8 2gb dimms. I had the dimm in riser b slot go bad and I replaced it. It took a few days to get a new dimm so took the dimm out slot 4 and put it into slot 2 and removed dimm 3 as well so that i had 12 gb to work with. When I put the replace ment dimm and the dimm out of slot 3 back in the dimm in slot 2 gave me a red LED. I moved it to slot 4 to try reseeting it but it still shows bad in slot 4. do you think I got a bad batch of ram or that my riser is killing the ram that I have? I dont want to have to keep replacing the tam if my mac is killing the ram.

I have a hard time following
DIMMs are always treated in pairs, and returned as such, no one replaces a single DIMM.
8 x 2GB with 4 on each Riser is fine.
You should have returned both A3 and A4 (you don't metion which Riser so I'll just use A).
There should be method to madness.
Try one set at a time. Or half. Or all on one Riser
Try swapping Riser A and B.
Apple Hardware Test is of help with Risers and 'mechanical' errors. To test software based errors.
Having a DIMM or set show as HALF their rated capacity is also a common problem with FBDIMMs, which should always be kept cool as possible and monitored, including increase of the system fans by 300-400 rpm.
As I said, Crucial, MacSales, Ramjet, Trans, they all want you to return the matching sets.
I don't think your Risers are killing your RAM. but maybe choice and handling and vendor.

Ipad battery replacement options

My Ipad 4th gen no longer powers on. Will apple replace it using the 99 dollar battery replacement option or does it have to turn on and fail the battery test before they can do this?

What happens when you plug it into the charger that was supplied with it? How do you know the battery is bad? What are the symptoms the device is relaying to you (besides not powering on) that makes you believe the battery is indeed bad?
You can make a reservation at your local Apple Store's Genius Bar (you'll need your Apple ID) to have it evaluated for free to verify that the battery is indeed bad.
Try a device reset...the device could merely be locked-up:
Device Reset (won't affect settings/data/music/apps/etc)
1. Press and hold (& continue to hold) BOTH the Sleep/Wake button & the Home button.
2. Continue to hold BOTH (ignoring any other messages that may show) until you see the Apple logo on the screen.
3. Release BOTH buttons when you see the Apple logo and allow the device to boot normally.

Does Applecare cover damaged/cracked screens? Replacement options?

Is there a cost effective way to fix a cracked screen on iphone 4(16GB in contract ATT)?
Purchased June 2011 with additional Applecare(not Applecare +)
The options I've considered:
1. NEW
     buy new iphone 4 $549 8GB
     buy new iphone 4S $649 16GB
2. USED
     buy used iPhone 4 online
     *anywhere from $275-500 locally in Chicago
3. CLAIM
     Make claim under Home insurance(deductible applies $500)
4. Cancel contract woth current carrier and subsequently buy new iPhone4s with either VZ or Sprint
      *Early term applies plus cost of new phone(and loss of unlimited data)Estimate at $484
Thanks for any and all ideas--this would be the 2nd phone replaced this year!

Out-of-Warranty Service
If you own an iPhone that is ineligible for warranty service but is eligible for Out-of-Warranty (OOW) Service, Apple will service your iPhone for the Out-of-Warranty Service fee listed below.
iPhone model
Out-of-Warranty Service
iPhone 4S
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS,
iPhone 3G, Original iPhone
$149
A $6.95 shipping fee will be added if you arrange service online or by calling Apple Technical Support. All fees are in U.S. dollars and are subject to local tax. When setting up out-of-warranty service, Apple will request credit card pre-authorization for the maximum service fee listed above. This amount will be deducted from your credit limit. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above.Certain damage is ineligible for out-of-warranty service, including catastrophic damage, such as the device separating into multiple pieces, and inoperability caused by unauthorized modifications. However, an iPhone that has failed due to contact with liquid may be eligible for out-of-warranty service.Apple reserves the right to determine whether or not your iPhone is eligible for Out-of-Warranty service. iPhones that are repaired or replaced have a 90-day limited hardware warranty or assume the remainder of your standard warranty or AppleCare service contract coverage, whichever is longer. Please see Apple's Repair Terms And Conditions for further details.
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_States&product=ipho ne

HT3302 I just got a replacement 4 days ago, and I dropped in the water! I want to know if I'm covered by the policy of repairs product for a period 90 days? According with AppleCare Repair Agreement Terms and Conditions, Section 2. Repair or Replacement S

ACcording....
2. Repair or Replacement Service Provided
a. Repair or Replacement Service. If during the Coverage Period there is a defect in materials or workmanship of the Covered Equipment, Apple will, at its option, repair or replace or provide service parts for the affected Covered Equipment. Apple will provide both parts and labor, but may direct that you replace certain readily installable parts yourself, as described below.

ViviMAR wrote:
I read this already but my phone don't have any mark of...
So what's your question?
Is the phone actually working? If it is then use it. If it isn't then take it into an Apple service provider for assessment. I guess if they ask you about it you can claim protection under the 5th amendment (assuming you are in the USA) - that's between you and your conscience in this situation. That's why the thing is full of liquid sensors, including ones you cannot see.
Repair Pricing section - http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/service/faq/
iPhone model     Out-of-Warranty Service
iPhone 4S     $199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS,
iPhone 3G, Original iPhone     $149

Does anyone think that apple do not have any confidence in their products by only giving a 12 warranty repair or replace rather than a 1 year guarantee?

I recently got an iphone 4 through my network provider after 4 days of having the product i started to experience problems. My iphone 4 would start calling people in my contacts without me even touching the phone, at first it was funny but people were not laughing when it was calling them through the night and in the early hours of the morning. My Network provider sent me a new i phone 4 and collected the faulty one, now the newly replaced iphone 4 after 1 week developed a problem with the camera, the shutter will not open and i cannot use video or take pictures. I contacted my network provider who have now referred me to apple who say they have a 12 month warranty in place for a repair or replace service, not a 1 year guarantee which makes me think apple have NO confidence in this product at all. I spoke with apple on the phone and they advised me to go into my local store and they will repair the phone, I advised i do not want the phone repaired as this could cause problems later down the line with the phone itself, but they would not budge saying they would only repair the phone and if worst came to the worst and the phone could not be repaired they would replace the phone. Because i could not get anywhere on the apple customer service telephone line i was put onto another operator who actually said to me on the phone that apple do not like the phones being opened up as this could cause problems later down the line with the phone. Now i had said this to his colleague earlier on the telephone, so if this can cause problems later down the line which he confirmed with me, why are apple not replacing the customers mobile phones instead of repairing them if they know that this can cause a problem with the phone in later life. Me personally am glad i got my phone from a network provider and did not pay £400 - £550 on the iphone 4 as i will be stuck with a refurbished phone now and not a new product this phone is only 1 week old. I would advise everyone considering an apple product to seriously consider the implications of buying an apple product, as it seems to me even apple do not have enough confidence in their product with only giving out a 12 month warranty and not a guarantee. The iphone 4 is a great idea but not a reliable one that will last you for years down the line. I couldn't wait to get my iphone 4, now all it gives me is problems. My previous phone was a Sony Ericcson W995 i have had the phone for 2 years 6 months now with no faults and no problems and my partner also has had the same phone for the same amount of time with no problems. Are new mobile phones not built to last anymore, and if so why such the high cost to the consumer? This is my first apple product my partner also has an iphone 4 and experiencing the same problems as me and i feel really disappointed and let down, where did all the customers rights go?
Diane Gallacher

A 12 month warranty and a year 1 year warranty are the same correct, but a 1 year warranty and a 1 year guarantee are totally different. I sell products in work which have a 1 year guarantee and a 9 years warranty, guarantee means if anything goes wrong with the product in the first year you will get a straight replacement. Warranty means the product will depreciate in value each year. If you spend £1000 on an item which has 10 years cover divide £1000 by 10 years and your product is depreciating in value each year by £100. so if you had a problem after 2 years and were outwith your guarantee you item would be worth £800 which the manufacturer will give you a credit note so you can purchase an item up to the value of £800 or you can put another £200 to it yourself to either get the same product or a product at the same value you purchased your first item. Guarantee and warranty are 2 totally different covers.
Is there also not a cover in the uk on all electrical products for a 5 year term no matter what the product? this one i am unsure of but have been told this is the case.

Repair or replace? If replace, HD now or not yet?

I have been happily doing semi-pro-level video for a variety of applications (nature scenes for a series of commercial "sorta music video" DVDs, documentary-like stuff, weddings, and anything else that comes my way) for seven years with my primary and beloved camera being a Canon XV2 (Japanese model #, but same as GL2 in the U.S.). Since I live in Japan and have no car, that camera is the right compromise between pro features and small size, and I was able to afford it - most stuff I do for free, so my budget is limited. I've had two intermittent problems with it (dirty heads symptoms when heads are not dirty, even just after repair, and an occasional "Eject the tape" demand), and have had a few repairs on it, but was not planning on getting new equipment for another couple years at least. But last week, five minutes before the beginning of a wedding, the zoom on it flaked out - probably an electronic problem. I swapped it with my second camera that was planned as unmanned and survived the wedding, but now I have a dilemma. First of all, I'm asking myself if I should put more money into repair of this camera (especially when I haven't been impressed with Canon's ability to solve my other problems!), or buy a new one. And if I buy a new one, should I just get another GL2/XV2, since it is what I am familiar with? (I was surprised to see that it is not only still being made, but it appears to be the #1 prosumer camera out there, even after over seven years on the market.) Or since I don't replace cameras often, would I be crazy in 2009 to buy a new camera that cannot do HD?
I have not studied the new HD phenomenom in depth, but my impression is that so far the manufacturers have not come up with a way to store HD that works well for prosumer-level editing in Premiere Pro. I assume the real pro cameras do something different, but as far as I can tell, in my price range I have to choose between HDV (compress like I would for a DVD before I even start editing? that doesn't sound right!) or AVCDV (even worse). I see some buzz about HDMI output direct to some external device, but not only are such devices pricey, but I haven't found any explanation of how I'm supposed to do that on a hike, for example (carry the storage device and a car battery in a backpack or something?). Diving with my camera would be even trickier (what all would I have to put in that underwater housing??). Also, it seems that there is not just one HD, but many different resolutions that are all called HD. Finally, when I look for HD cameras in the prosumer range, I just don't see anything - it's either consumer toys or $5000 monsters. So I had decided that HD isn't mature yet, and that DVDs will still be around for awhile before they are consumed by Blu-Ray, so I'll just keep shooting SD with my old cameras until the industry figures out what they're doing. But then my XV2 breaks...
Another issue of purchasing a different camera is the ripple effect. I use my XV2 on a tripod that balances just right (it doesn't have a sliding mount, so it needs to balance) and on a Steadicam JR sometimes. If I get an HD camera that has 3 CCDs of a decent size (I don't want to lose the good low lux ability of the XV2) and a good zoom lens (I use all 20X of the XV2's zoom on a regular basis), I'll probably need to buy a bigger tripod for starters. Then I don't know if the camera will be too heavy for my little Steadicam... or for my arm trying to hold the Steadicam with the camera and counterweight - I'm not a bodybuilder, but a 130 lb., 48-year-old woman. I suspect HD would also demand about 5 times as much computer as I have now... the list of potential dominos goes on.
I've never written to the Lounge before, but this seems like the right place to solicit opinions about the life expectancy of SD and DVD vs. the incoming HD and Blu-Ray generation, the wisdom of repairing vs. replacing (if I give the camera to Canon, they will probably charge me to look at it, even before they know what it would cost to get it fixed, and the other intermittent problems would still exist), and any other topics you feel are relevent. I have "champagne tastes on a beer budget", so I would love to get thoughts both from those of you doing pro work (my champagne tastes) and amateur (beer budget). Let's chat!

Thanks for your thoughts, Curt. By the way, kudos for the tutorial videos you made a few years back - they were a great help to me when I was learning PPro and related stuff (or was that back in the days before they put the word "Pro" on it - I can't remember). Anyway, they were well done.
Yesterday I did more internet research and discovered great news - my camera's failure is quite common (discussion here), and caused by only a failed zoom rocker switch (the rocker overrides the buttons on the handle and the LANC port, so it seems like a more fundamental problem). Someone also posted careful instructions and photos for disassembling the camera and replacing the zoom rocker unit (which is rumored to cost only $13 plus shipping in the U.S.). I don't yet know how I'll get the part here in Japan (where companies seem to try to prevent DIY), but I disconnected my rocker's cable for now, which enables me to use either the buttons or my Varizoom in the LANC port. What a relief! I was worried that the problem was the main circuit board of the camera, which, along with Canon's labor costs, might have been a painful bill for an old camera. But your vote of confidence in a seven-year-old camera's continued usefulness was encouraging enough that even if it hadn't been as simple as it turned out to be, I probably still would have sent it in for repair.
Thanks for your comments on HD as well. Just yesterday I ran across a great review of the XH-A1 and then read the specs - it does seem to be the closest thing to a "HD version of the GL2". But you gave me new information that wasn't obvious: that it can shoot in SD also. When I read the specs, I could see choices of different HD resolutions and frame speeds, but 720x480 29.97fps was not mentioned (I guess it's just not that interesting to people). So I thought I'd have to shoot in HDV and convert the video later to SD, which would surely been messier than native SD. I am currently working on a series of DVD products for which I will continue to shoot SD for a couple more years, so even if I had bought an HD camera, SD capability would be important to me.
So, are you happy with the quality of HDV? After having it pounded into me that it's a no-no to compress (very much, anyway) anything that will get edited later (whether it's photos, audio, or video), I couldn't believe my ears a few months ago when I first heard what HDV is - that the video is getting compressed to the same degree that it would be compressed for putting on a DVD (MPEG-2), before it even gets out of the camera! I ran the other way and decided that the manufacturers were simply desperate to please clueless consumers. But now I am seeing that even pros are using that format (imagine a puzzled look on my face). Do you think HDV is here to stay, or is it an interim measure until higher density tapes are invented or flash memory gets cheap enough to hold uncompressed or only lightly compressed (like DV-AVI level) video in the camera?

I have songs on my iPod and iTunes where sections ranging from 40 seconds to 2 minutes do not play. The song status bar indicates the file is still being played but there is no audio. What can I do to repair or replace these files?

I have songs on my iPod and iTunes where sections of the song ranging from 40 seconds to 2 minutes will not play. The song status bar indicates the file is still being played there is no audio. What can I do to repair or replace these files?

If iTunes purchases, delete and redownload by:
Downloading past purchases from the App Store, iBookstore, and iTunes Store
Otherwise delete and resync if they play OK in iTunes on the computer

My iphone 5 is not working. warranty expired.i purchased it in Fortress store,HONG KONG. How much it would cost for a repair or replacement??

my iphone 5 is NOT SWITCHING ON..its not charging .warranty expired by 2 months.how much it would cost for a repair or replacement.??
i purchased it in fortress store ,HONG KONG.

If Fortress is an authorized reseller for the iPhone, then look here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=Hong_Kong&product=iphone
If Fortress is not authorized to sell the iPhone, then you will need to ask Fortress about getting your iPhone services.
Regards.

Bad soldered in RAM? Repair or replace options?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for