Camera Settings, white balance?

Is there a way to change the settings of the build in camera? For example the white balance? No matter what the lighting is, faces always look too redish (in Skype, Photo Booth, etc).
Many thanks for your help.
Olaf

I am not sure of a way to do it in OSX but you might check out this link...
http://www.ecamm.com/mac/iglasses/settings.html

Similar Messages

  • Z1 camera vs z camera, lacks white balance

    i have compared the camera shots yesterday. why is the camera of z produces better shots? z1's camera shot samples are so grainy and noisy. im disappoinyed because im planning to buy z1 soon. and it also lacks white balance on display which imprives the over all display quality of the device.
    SONY PLEASE DO SOMETHING!!!
    IM DISAPPOINTED, I WANT TO BUY Z1,
    BUT IT NEEDS MORE IMPROVEMENT.
    I HOPE MY CONCERN REACHES YOU.
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    It does
    http://userguide.sonymobile.com/referrer.php?region=global-en&product=xperia-z1#General-camera-setti...
    White balance
    This function adjusts the colour balance according to the lighting conditions. The white balance setting icon  is available on the camera screen.
    Auto
    Adjusts the colour balance automatically to suit the lighting conditions.
    Incandescent
    Adjusts the colour balance for warm lighting conditions, such as under light bulbs.
    Fluorescent
    Adjusts the colour balance for fluorescent lighting.
    Daylight
    Adjusts the colour balance for sunny outdoor conditions.
    Cloudy
    Adjusts the colour balance for a cloudy sky.
    This setting is only available in Manual capturing mode.
    "I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

  • Camera Raw white balance presets

    When I open an image (either RAW or JPEG), I only have 3 option for white balance presets. "As Shot" "Auto" or "Custom". Does anyone know how I can get the other presets?? I am using CS3 w/ Camera Raw 4.2. I have reset my Camera Raw defaults with no luck.
    Thank you for your help.

    Brent: Are you absolutely, 100%, sure you are opening a raw file?
    JPEG and TIFFs so not have these extra presets because they don't make sense since the starting point for a JPEG/TIFF is unknown.

  • Can Bridge report in-camera settings for White Balance?

    No matter what settings I choose in Bridge Preferences, I cannot get it to tell me what was the White Balance (WB) setting of the camera when raw images were shot.
    This seems an odd omission because Camera Raw is passed this information and displays images correctly, although it doesn't report what WB value it was given, only that what you are viewing, prior to any editing, is the default "As Shot".
    I'm referring to raw files shot on my Canon 300D, Nikon D700 and Canon 5D Mark II.
    Currently I'm using PsCS6 (13.0.1.2 x64), Bridge CS6 (5.0.2.4 x64) and ACR 8.1 on a Windows 7 x64 8GB system, but the same omission existed on the same Windows system with ACR 7.x in CS6 and all releases of PsCS5, Bridge CS5 and ACR 6.6 and 6.7.
    On the opening dialog of Bridge Preferences, at the bottom you can choose whether or not you wish to 'Hide Empty Fields'. Selecting or unselecting this option does not have any effect upon Bridge's inability to report WB when, from within Bridge, you select File Info from the File menu or by hitting Ctrl + I.
    The only locations in Bridge Preferences I can find that need selection (and which I have selected) for Bridge to supply WB information upon invoking File Info are here:
    Preferences\Metadata\Camera Data (Exif)\White Balance; and
    Preferences\Metadata\Camera Raw\White Balance
    I have also selected Preferences\Metadata\File Properties\Supports XMP, and yet Bridge fails to give the in-camera WB in the Camera Data tab of File Info.
    I have been able to locate references to WB in the following tabs of File Info:
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    However, these are just code numbers, not names like 'Cloudy' or 'Shade', and they are not only inconsistent (both showing the code 1 for an unedited image I know was shot with Auto WB and another unedited image I know was shot with Flash WB) but also it would appear that the codes may refer to the WB as modified by ACR - because an image I know had its in-camera WB of Auto altered in ACR shows a code of 'Custom' rather than 0, 1 or some other number.
    So what am I missing? Does anyone know how to make Bridge Preferences display the in-camera setting for WB, and if so, under which tab of File Info do you look for the answer once you have set up Preferences properly?
    Message was edited by: Andrew_Hart
    Just corrected my current Photoshop version

    I'm afraid that you just haven't addressed the question that I asked in my original post.
    I still like to think I have but if you for whatever reason need this info showing in the metadata you probably be better of trying to alter it your self or find a way to address Paul personally (maybe via a private message).
    I have not heard from him for a long time and a small google search provided me with this forum post, hope it helps you, maybe you can also persuaded Paul to come back, he is very missed!
    http://www.ps-scripts.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5508

  • Another white balance presets/settings question

    (this is related to two other posts regarding white balance presets, but didn't want to hijack those threads with my own specific questions...)
    i've got a canon s70, and have been messing around with a friends copy of aperture. the raw files of my camera are recognized (though the aperture camera support page identifies it as not optimized support), but the problem is that the white balance settings in camera are ignored.
    when i view a raw file from my camera in aperture, the exif data shows that it is recognizing different white balance settings (various numbers are displayed here, for example, 1 for auto, 3 for tungsten, 6 for manual, etc). however, the temp. and tint settings are the same for all the images, regardless of wb setting (5278K temp, -18 tint).
    so, here are my questions:
    - is there any setting i'm missing that would let aperture correctly interpet the wb temp for a specific setting? in another thread regarding canon cameras and wb someone stated that aperture reads wb 'as shot', but it seems odd that it would recognize these different wb settings but apply the same temp and tint calculations across the board.
    -i noticed that i can create white balance presets and apply them manually. i was wondering if it's possible to apply preset wb settings automatically. for example, is it possible to create an approximate wb setting for 'tungsten' (3), and then have it applied to all images with the '3' setting, either automatically on/immediately after import, or through an applescript or automator action?
    while i could use lightroom, atm lightroom is lacking some features that i crucial to my wider image management/workflow needs (though it does correctly interpret my white balance settings). aperture seems like the best bet for me, but i would rather not go through my library of raw files and manually change the wb settings for each image.
    thanks in advance for any help.

    I don't know about your other white balance issue, but yes, you can apply a white balance to a selection of images.
    Create a set of WB presets (one for daylight, cloudy, fluorescent, tungsten etc.). This takes moments and will be available on any future occasion.
    Select and apply your WB preset to an image
    Fine tune as needed (since in-camera auto white balance or presets often do not nail it)
    Select Lift/Stamp tool
    Click on your adjusted image
    In the Lift/Stamp HUD, deselect all adjustments except the WB
    Select all target images
    Click "Stamp Selected Images" button in the Lift/Stamp HUD

  • Are there white balance presets - like in Camera Raw?

    Hi. I'm newer to Aperture, and when I'm editing photos, I'm wondering if there's a white balance preset, like in Adobe Camera Raw, that match my camera's white balance options (cloudy, flash, daylight, etc.). Is there something like that in Aperture that I can't find, or am I just regulated to the sliders?
    Thanks!

    they are not preinstalled, but you can easily make them. just shoot several images with your camera set to each white balance, then save all the settings in the white balance brick.

  • Webcam White Balance Settings?

    Hello,
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    If your webcam is like mine, activate the camera, hover your mouse near the bottom of the picture, click on Settings, click Scene, scroll to the right and you will find Sunny, Cloudy, Rain and Night as well as a few others.
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  • 5diii in camera white balance

    I shot (as a guest) at a wedding this past weekend and was playing around with some of the in-camera custom white balance to get around the lovely green and magenta lighting at the reception.
    Aperture's processing of these RAW files is COMPLETELY borked. It's not even close.
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    Finally, here's the original:
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    Lightroom renders similar to the other pictures in the set where I wasn't using the in-camera settings...

    Bizarre is a good word!
    I have tested your original in both Aperture 3.2.4 (in Snow Leopard) and Aperture 3.3.1 (in Lion), and also in Preview, Photoshop CS5 and Graphic Converter.
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    When I look at the EXIF (btw the original is a different shot than the other image links) I note that ISO is 12800 (probably the top?) while shutter is 1 1/640th of a second.  In orhter words what I would call extreme settings for this venue and available light.
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  • Image contains camera White Balance setting; LR 5.5 only shows "As Shot", "Auto", and "Custom"

    I have a new, Panasonic DMC-GX7. I shot a bunch of photos as JPGs. When viewing their Exif data using Exiftool, I can clearly see the camera's White Balance setting, as well as the Color Temp Kelvin, WB Red Level, WB Green Level, and WB Blue Level. However, Lightroom 5.5 only shows "As Shot", "Auto", and "Custom" when I click White Balance under Quick Develop on the Library tab or WB under Basic on the Develop tab. Exiftool shows the Exif Version as 0230 and the Panasonic Exif Version as 0405. Is LR looking for the white balance information in some other field? Do I need to configure it somehow for my camera? I am new to LR (but not to image processing), so could use some help figuring this out.

    The whole question is not so simple as converting to DNG. Yes DNG is openly documented, yes the file can be read, but that does not mean it can be correctly interpreted by other software in the future and the best you can then do is starting the PP of your images from scratch. Imagine a DNG with LR adjustments that in some years you open the file in another software, possibly non-Adobe. Even if the file can be read it will not look the same, as the Adobe specific developing instructions could not be strictly followed. Even if all software manufactures agreed on a common set of adjustments, let's say everybody had a Highlights slider and a Clarity slider and so on, which is unlikely, the results would still be different as the underlying algorithms would be different.
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  • White balance setup error on multi-camera shoot. Help!

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    Scroll down to find a whole series on color correction.
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  • Lumia 810 front camera white balance and flicker

    Maybe I'm expecting too much from the front camera, but it gives a purple tint to everything!  Is this normal on this phone?   I can manually set the whitebalence but it never looks right.
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  • White balance in kelvins

    Can anyone please explain the difference between adobe camera raw white balance settings (temperature and tint) and white balance in the camera which is measured in kelvins.
    let's say i like 5350 for temperature, and  -8 for tint white balance settings. how much would that be in kelvins on my camera?
    thank you

    Temperature = degrees Kelvin. That's the blue/yellow axis that refers to black body radiation as it heats up ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black-body_radiation ).
    Tint is just the other axis at 90 degrees to that. The tint axis is green/magenta.
    You adjust (fine-tune) along the same two axes in the D800, by moving the point vertically or horizontally. But camera and ACR won't necessarily agree as they interpret things a little differently. In any case: If you shoot raw, there's no need to make fine adjustments to this in camera. Do it in ACR. The camera white balance setting does not affect the sensor data or the file itself. ACR just reads the camera setting to get a rough starting point.

  • Lens Profile Tool Addition – White Balance Offset Correction

    I have noticed that my Canon 17-40mm and 70-200mm F4 IS lenses have virtually identical color temperature and can use the same white balance setting. My Sigma 50mm F2.8 Macro lens is another story, requiring almost 200K and +15 change to White Balance sliders. I am sure there are cases where Canon’s lenses will differ more widely and exhibit a similar degree of white balance differences, not to mention use of UV or 1B protection filters. An 85mm F1.2 lens using “rare earth” low dispersion glass, will have a warmer color temperature than a lens using more common glass elements.
    I use the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport to create custom profiles for each of my camera bodies. I typically make separate correction presets for Daylight, Cloudy, and Tungsten (2700K). This requires changing the LR White Balance sliders to obtain “neutral gray in the ColorChecker image files shot in each of above described lighting conditions. It does not appear necessary to create a separate ColorChecker camera profile for each lens, just correction to the LR white balance slider settings.
    I did some measurements of change in camera profile for Sunny Daylight (~5,500K), Cloudy (8,000K+), and Tungsten (~2,900K) lighting. There was no measurable change in rendering of the ColorChecker Passport images for the extreme Sunny to Cloudy conditions, and only very slight changewhen comparing the Tungsten profile. This was done by loading a ColorChecker Passport image file and applying alternate profiles:
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    The relatively small change in color balance between lenses (~500K max.) should have no measurable or visible affect to the ColorChecker Passport created "Camera Profile." The ColorChecker Passport or any other "Camera Profile" creation tool is first and foremost correcting for differences in the camera's image sensor color rendering.
    SUGGESTION:
    Since this white balance difference is a factor of the lens, it would be very convenient to add another tool in Lightroom's and Camera Raw Lens Profile panel for “White Balance Offset.” This allows setup of LR defaults for one specific lens type, such as your most used lens. Then you use the new ‘Lens Profile’ located ‘White Balance Offset’ correction tool to adjust white balance for all of your other lenses. In addition, Adobe or camera manufacturers could also provide the 'White Balance Offset Correction' as a function of the lens spectral response deviation from linear. This would provide a "uniform method" of calculating and adding the White Balance correction to the 'Lens Profile.' Since this is a factor of the lens only, the “lens offset correction” can be used with ANY lens/camera body pairing, The current LR and Camera Raw White Balance settings are then only used for “Global” correction of lighting conditions, and NOT for lens differences.
    This is a linear mathematical function,which should be extremely easy for Adobe to add the ‘White Balance Offset’ correction feature to LR’s and Camera Raw's Lens Profile GUI. Just like many other tools in LR that some don't use, you can choose to use it or not!

    Interesting suggestion. Thanks. -Simon

  • Exif white balance - why can't I see it?

    I have a Canon 5D and I'm trying to figure out how to display the camera's white balance settings in Aperture. I have added White Balance and White Balance Index to the metadata tab, but the only thing showing is either a 1 or a 0 in White Balance. I'd like to see what setting was used on the camera, such as Auto, Daylite, Tungsten, Custom, Kelvin, etc.
    Thanks,
    Andrew

    Try looking at the White Balance in the adjustment panel. It should show the value that it received from the WB setting on your camera.
    TO associate the different WB settings you see there with the Daylight/Tungsten/etc, you could take a series of photos starting with the first WB Setting and so on and then place them in Aperture and check the values in the WB settings panel.

  • Sunrise/Sunset and White Balance

    I have a question about overriding Automatic White Balance when photographing sunrises and sunsets. A few days ago, I got my first DSLR, an EOS 5D Mk III. I know the ISO triangle after shooting film on my Canon A-1 that I bought 34 years ago, which still works). However, this white balance thing is a fourth dimension. Films are balanced for daylight and the ISO is also dictated. For photographing a sunrise or sunset, to me, it makes sense to set the white balance to 5200 Kelvin (daylight). I got one response from a camera club member who said his photos were all in the 5000 range. Others have said "Shoot in RAW and fix it in post processing". The second response of "Fix it later" just doesn't ring my bell. What about getting it right the first time? Should I set white balance to daylight or some other setting? I can always experiment with changing white balance; after all, I'm not wasting film. Below are a series of sunrises that I took using Kodak Portra 400, -2/3 stop, on my Canon A-1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ralphhightower/sets/72157633079358301/ Thanks, Ralph
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    It might be helpful to just think of the digital camera's white balance capabilities as a built-in and very complete set of color conversion and color correction filters, such as we used to use with film. Now, for your convenience, all those filters are right there, inside the camera.... much easier to carry around and use!
    If shooting during Golden Hours, the camera's Automatic White Balance (AWB) can tend to overcorrect and remove some of the lovely golden nature of the light. One solution is as others have recommended, to shoot RAW and make your adjustments later. This is no different from making the adjustments in-camera, at the time of exposure, and can make for much greater control and precision. It's not really a "fix it later" thing... It is more a matter of doing fine-tuning and optimizing the image (more on this below). RAW simply retains all the data from the original capture and is a good thing to use, anyway. 
    All digital cameras essentially capture a TIFF image file with a lot of proprietary data attached and an embedded "preview/review" JPEG... that's what the RAW file is. If you make JPEGs in-camera, a lot of data is thrown away, following the directions laid out by the settings in the camera. If, instead, you save the entire RAW file, you can change those directions later in post-processing... or just make a JPEG from the image "as shot", using the exact same set of instructions as were set in the camera at the time of exposure. One of the beauties of RAW is that so long as you store the original image file, you can always go back and re-process it another way, if you wish. This is particularly helpful when new to digital and uncertain about your settings. Something you might want to do is shoot RAW+JPEG initially. That way you have both the full data stored, along with the potential to make changes if you wish, plus the JPEG produced according to your camera settings. The JPEG can serve as a post-processing learning tool, using it as a point of comparison with your own RAW file conversions.... and as feedback about your camera settings. (Don't trust the image display on the camera's LCD screen... it's not calibrated and is too subject to ambient light variations. The histogram display is generally more informative, but even that is subject to the camera's settings, since it's done from the embedded JPEG and not directly from the full RAW file.) 
    But, I agree, it's also good to "get it right the first time". Or at least come as close as possible.
    The most ideal way to do that would be to set a Custom White Balance for every shot. Use a standardized target, bathed in the same light as your subject/scene, and take a shot of it... then tell the camera to use that as reference. However, it's just not practical to do that.
    Nor is it a good idea to set one particular color temp and use it for everything (i know photogs who do that and have had to work with their images.... it makes for a lot of extra work!)
    Thus there are all the "presets" you can choose among, looking for one that's most appropriate for your particular situation... And there is AWB, which allows the camera to try to choose for you. Outdoors in daylight I've found Canon AWB to be pretty darned good. Shots in the shade can be a little overly cool. And indoor shots with tungsten or other artifical light are when a Custom WB is most likely to be needed.... especially with weird, uncalibrated lighting such as sodium vapor and mercury vapor lamps.
    To set an accurate Custom WB, get yourself a gray card or similar (I use Lastolite EZ Balance targets, which are sort of like a foldable/flexible gray card). This also can be helpful arriving at an accurately metered exposures. Something else I use in certain circumstances are Warm Cards... these have slight tints that "fool" the camera into slightly tinting the image.... a light blue/cyan target will cause the camera to render a slightly warm color balance. Warm Cards would be particularly helpful shooting during the Golden Hours, if wanting to retain some of the warmth of the light at those times of day.  It's more accurate doing this than simply manually setting a particular color temp, although that's possible too. 
    And, yes, you should spend some time getting to know how your camera handles color. Each model can be a bit different. You'd do well to shoot a bunch of test shots with AWB, Custom WB and, if you wish, the various presets... to see how they perform.
    Of course, you don't always have time to think about or make settings... sometimes to catch fleeting light you have to run to catch an image quickly, shoot RAW and "fix it later" in post-processing!
    If you haven't already done so, you might want to calibrate your computer monitor. As concerned as you are about rendering accurate color or manipulating it the way you want it, in case you are unaware of it... your computer monitor is lying to you. All computer monitors are different, none are really very accurate and virtually all are way too bright. If you make prints using an uncalibrated monitor, you will usually find them coming out too dark. This is because an overly bright monitor causes you to adjust the image too dark. If you don't already have them, you might want to get computer calibration software and hardware and use them regularly (about once every month or two, usually... monitors change over time and with use). 
    The way the calibration device works is by first running a test on your particular monitor, and then providing a profile that the computer will use when rendering images on the display. Some of the more sophisticated calibration suites can also be used to develop printing profiles (unique for each ink/paper/printer combination), projectors and other viewing devices. (I use a Datacolor Spyder, one of several different calibration devices/softwares available).
    Hope this helps!
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

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