Chase - Getting Approved with Old Charge Off

So back about 10 years ago, while in college, I had a credit card and checking account with Chase. I was irresponsible and let the card go unpaid, and it eventually was charged off and sold to a collection agency. Here I am, 10 years later, with a great credit record, Fico in the 750s, and about 10 current credit card accounts with very low utilization. In the past 12 months, I have been denied for two different Chase cards, the CSP and Ritz cards (about 5 months apart). When I was denied for the 2nd, I called and spoke with an agent who explained to me that there was an old charge off shown in their system for $3XX and that was the reason for the denial. I offered to pay the charge off and take care of it, but they said they could no longer accept payment as it was sold to a collection agency. The woman on the phone suggested I go into a branch and see if they could help me. I did, and they could not, all they did was get someone on the phone at Chase and they told me the same thing they did when I was denied. Basically they explained I have no options to make it right with Chase and gave me no options as to a way to rebuild my relationship with the bank.  My question for you guys here at the forum is whether or not there is anything I can do to repaid this relationship so I can get some Chase cards. My first thought was to open a checking account to build some credibility. The other thought I had was to open a secured credit card, although that seems a bit absurd given that i have never been declined for any other card other than these 2 from Chase. I am more than willing to do it, but wasn't sure if that would be necessary. What would you guys recommend? My main goal is to be able to get a Southwest card (or 2) in about 6 months, and I am willing to do whatever it takes. Thanks in advance for your help! 

gernblanston wrote:
So back about 10 years ago, while in college, I had a credit card and checking account with Chase. I was irresponsible and let the card go unpaid, and it eventually was charged off and sold to a collection agency. Here I am, 10 years later, with a great credit record, Fico in the 750s, and about 10 current credit card accounts with very low utilization. In the past 12 months, I have been denied for two different Chase cards, the CSP and Ritz cards (about 5 months apart). When I was denied for the 2nd, I called and spoke with an agent who explained to me that there was an old charge off shown in their system for $3XX and that was the reason for the denial. I offered to pay the charge off and take care of it, but they said they could no longer accept payment as it was sold to a collection agency. The woman on the phone suggested I go into a branch and see if they could help me. I did, and they could not, all they did was get someone on the phone at Chase and they told me the same thing they did when I was denied. Basically they explained I have no options to make it right with Chase and gave me no options as to a way to rebuild my relationship with the bank.  My question for you guys here at the forum is whether or not there is anything I can do to repaid this relationship so I can get some Chase cards. My first thought was to open a checking account to build some credibility. The other thought I had was to open a secured credit card, although that seems a bit absurd given that i have never been declined for any other card other than these 2 from Chase. I am more than willing to do it, but wasn't sure if that would be necessary. What would you guys recommend? My main goal is to be able to get a Southwest card (or 2) in about 6 months, and I am willing to do whatever it takes. Thanks in advance for your help! I just got off the horn with Chase EO today. Was trying a 2nd recon for a Hyatt card. The guy was really professional. He said I had a $500 slate charge off back in 2003 (which who knows what providian or family member did this to me, its buggin me) anyway, he said, we approved you for a $5k Chase IHG card. We want to see some repayment history with you first for a few months before we consider you for another card. He also said I might want a chase freedom or sapphire card some day (I had applied for the freedom in april and december of 2014). Even though I probably wont ever go for those cards, although they make a great combo. He assured me as long as I havent opened  several new accounts recently I would definitely be approved if my score continues to go up.  He also said that the 5 new accouts in 2 years thing is not always 100% and that he recon's people from time to time and approves them if their scores/history warrant that type of card. I also would like to add that chase is picky from person to person. Their cobranded cards are easier to get than their non's. I never had this CO thing mentioned to me before when I was denied the freedom. They said I had an unclosed checking account, and  owed $75. I promptly paid that, and recon'd twice, still do dice.  Also when I recon'd the IHG card the first time I was told way too many accounts, and not enough experience with a high limit card. Umm ok whatever, why can I go to ANY other bank and get a card then? Then called back the next day, instant approval for 5k IHG world mastercard.  I will say, it probably wouldn't hurt to double app with them when you are ready. Some may disagree with this. But with chase theres always a chance of that 1 inquiry becoming two. And why not go for two different products that could improve your odds of getting one that the rep feels is more appropriate, or maybe even get the 2nd one approved later that same day! As long as your income supports the CSP (40k+/yr) then you should be fine? But others could chime in here regarding the underwriting. Maybe go for a cobranded 1st, then freedom 2nd, then csp 3rd.

Similar Messages

  • Error: Reason codes with automatic charge-off are not permitted here(F-28)

    Hi All
    I creted a reason code in obxl t-code and assigned a gl code in OBXL transaction code, But when I am trying to clear a payment with reason code in F-28, System is throwing the following error..Can some one tell me why i am getting this error?
    Reason codes with automatic charge-off are not permitted here
    Message no. F5605
    Diagnosis
    The reason code entered is designed to ensure that the payment difference amount is posted to an account specially set up for this purpose.  Postings of this nature usually require additional specifications (e.g. tax code, business area). If the difference stems from a single open item, the necessary specifications can be taken from that item. In the case that led to this error message, however, the difference does not stem soley from one item, which means that this method cannot be used.
    System Response
    The reason code entered is not accepted.
    Procedure
    You can either select a different reason code, which would create a new open item for the customer or vendor OR write off the difference using the function Charge off diff.. This function either takes you into a pre-configured account assignment model or into the document overview. From here you can enter the required difference postings.

    Hi Venkata,
    It seems while entering the payment (partial payment / residual items) ... you are clearing multiple items with differences. (e.g. if the difference amount is $30, then may the difference consists of two invoices underpaid by $15 each). In this scenario, F-28 doesn't know which additional account assignment fields should be picked up ... hence the error.
    First of all, to validate that this indeed is the case, try clearing a payment with the same reason code where difference can be attributed to a single invoice. If you still get an error, then there is some other problem.
    Then, to take care of a the business scenario where the difference can indeed be due to multiple documents, select "charge off difference" option and create an entry to post the difference as necessary.
    HTH,
    Manish Patel
    Sr. SAP Solutions Consultant

  • Nevada: SOL & Old Charge Off

    Hey all, and pardon me in advance for my ignorance.
    Long long time lurker, minimal poster.
    I have a U.S. Bank C/O which was charged off in 12/2011.
    On myfico it only shows my payment history back to 1/2010, in which it hasn't been paid. I left US BANK I'm sure in 2008/early2009 when I advanced my Career and switched to USAA.
    My credit reports show an estimated "Fall Off" date as May 2016 for one bureau and July 2016 for another.
    My question is, if the first date of delinquency is in fact within, 2009, with Nevada having a 6 year SOL, Shouldn't it be falling off of my reports this year in 2015?
    I've been gearing up for a mortgage in early 2016 and going over my credit reports this was brought back up to my attention. Should I contact the OC and get the exact DOFD? The Credit bureaus? myFICO only goes back to 1/2010 and my last payment was before that date.
    Any responses are appreciated.

    SOL only determines how long you can be sued in court, no bearing on reporting. Report time is 7.5 years max for a charge off or collection.p

  • Getting Approved with FICO auto score of 8 635! HELP!

    I am interested in purchasing my second car soon. I purchased a Honda Civic back in 2007 with my father as the co-signer. I paid the car of in 2011. I am not trading in my car(giving it to my niece) but I am interested in leasing a car with Honda, Chevrolet or Ford. What re my chances of gettting approved with a 636 FICO Auto score 8? My credit is inclining and it went up 20 points last month. I have a great history of on ime payments with my previous loan from a credit union. I don't have a lot of money (0-none) to put down on a downpayment. Any adivse is greatly appreciated!

    You'll be fine I work at a dealership, gmc Cadillac Buick & I've sold leases to 530 credit score. But the lower your score the worse the tier from what I've seen you should try to get a tier bump to at least an A3. Every dealer ship has one specific bank that handles all their leases, my dealership for example only Gm financial, dodge/jeep is on td auto/Chrysler which only specifically pulls transunion & you MUST be over a 650 to even qualify to have hope just try to get the run down before too many dealerships run your credit.

  • How to get approver with SO in PLD

    Hi expert
      I have an approvel procedure on sales order.
      I would like to get approver in PLD, but how to get them?
      I know the data save in OWDD/WDD1 table, and I can use
      Alt key to pull the all table, but I don't know how to join them well. Have any body meet the sam problem? Any body have the solution?
    Glen

    Hi,
    Please follow the below mentioned steps:
      1. make a UDF on the title level of the marketing document
      2. make a query like this:
        SELECT T3.U_NAME FROM OWDD T0, ORDR T1, WDD1 T2 INNER JOIN
        OUSR T3 ON T2.UserID = T3.INTERNAL_K
        WHERE T1.DocEntry= T0.DocEntry and T2.WddCode=T0.WddCode
        and T1.DocNum=$[$8.1.0]
      3.link the query to the UDF;
      4.add a data field in the print template to make the UDF visible.
    +But,please note that for multi approver scenario,the system does have
    the limitation here that when in these cases, you can display only one
    approver or you have to create several UDF to display the whole
    information.
    Regards,
    Abhinav Banerjee
    SAP Business One Forums Team
    Edited by: Abhinav Banerjee on Nov 22, 2008 2:49 AM

  • Is a mid 700 score possible with a charge off?

    CreditCuriousity wrote:
     I am breaking the 700 barrier with a slew of 120 lates, a few CO's.. So ya it is possible. TU04 is 735 atm, TU08 710ish.. All about 4 years olds+.. Only CRA that the 04 score score is higher than the 08 and no real difference on what is reporting.. very strange.. Other two are around 685-690 atm, should break 700 when a CA gets removed being a medical one sometime this week so EX/EQ should be greater than 700 and TU should hopefully go up as well with a slew of inquiries. Util 1% on 110k in credit. AAoA 4-6 years. Think the fairly thick credit file is helping me and long aaoa.Low 700's may be possible... after a few years.  I don't see any chance of 750. What's exciting to me is the score possibilities when I have the Ch 13 PR and dozen IIB accounts all falling off at the same time.  If I'm 670-680 with them still reporting after 6+ years... what kind of a score boost can I expect? I'm being generous when I say 70 points on each CRA... which would put me 750 across the board.  I have 5 student loan accounts backdated to 2001 which will boost my AAoA quite a bit and hopefully offset the AAoA loss when the IIB accounts fall off. 

    CreditCuriousity wrote:
    TRC_WA wrote:
    CreditCuriousity wrote:
     I am breaking the 700 barrier with a slew of 120 lates, a few CO's.. So ya it is possible. TU04 is 735 atm, TU08 710ish.. All about 4 years olds+.. Only CRA that the 04 score score is higher than the 08 and no real difference on what is reporting.. very strange.. Other two are around 685-690 atm, should break 700 when a CA gets removed being a medical one sometime this week so EX/EQ should be greater than 700 and TU should hopefully go up as well with a slew of inquiries. Util 1% on 110k in credit. AAoA 4-6 years. Think the fairly thick credit file is helping me and long aaoa.Low 700's may be possible... after a few years.  I don't see any chance of 750. What's exciting to me is the score possibilities when I have the Ch 13 PR and dozen IIB accounts all falling off at the same time.  If I'm 670-680 with them still reporting after 6+ years... what kind of a score boost can I expect? I'm being generous when I say 70 points on each CRA... which would put me 750 across the board.  I have 5 student loan accounts backdated to 2001 which will boost my AAoA quite a bit and hopefully offset the AAoA loss when the IIB accounts fall off. I agree 750 isn't really possibly, but 700 for sure is as I am proof of this as well as many others...  With that said score isn't everything as if I ever go into manual review then a UW can very well hold that against me or not even manual review it can see it and be a denial.. It is what is in the report, not the score..  Granted higher score usually equal better profile. Never dealt with a BK, so not sure what kinda boost you are to expect to be honest.. I know when my lates and CO's finally fall off I should be in the 750-780 range based on where I am now, can't get much higher without a mortgage.  Just setting myself for the best possible situation in 3 years when the final lates / co's fall off unless somehow i can get them removed, but not likely with Sallie Mae (lates) and Cap1 being a few of the CO's... Also it is my student loans and 2 backdated amex's to 1990 that are saving my AAoA as all the cards you see in my signature are less than a year old and still 4-6 years AAoA.. thank god for those life lines Oh yeah I know score isn't everything.  I was approved in December for a $6700 Sallie Mae with a 666 TU.  My 16 months history with Barclay Apple card had more to do with my approval than my score... that and the fact I also had no new accounts or INQs in a year.  I've seen 700+ people have to recon for the same card. I'm pretty confident I'll be 750+... the reports I've seen have been 60-90 point gains when BR public record/IIB accounts fall off. My cards will be 1-3 years old when my reports clear up... and I expect the same lifeline from my 2001 student loans.  They only add up to about $5k total... but at $58 a month they'll be boosting my AAoA for quite a while. But anyway.... yeah low 700's is definitely possible with a CO... that has aged a bit.  Anything recent will most definitely keep you in the upper 600's as I originally said.  

  • After 11 years with Verizon, they are trying to get away with ripping me off... Edge program...

    Signed up for Edge in May, somehow VERIZON "accidentally" cancelled my Edge program for 5 months, and then sent me a letter saying they were fixing the problem. I never noticed that it had been cancelled, and have never in 11 years had a problem with Verizon. My bill when on the edge program with the incentives, is about $180 for both phones. When it was not on the Edge program due to Verizon's mistake, my bill was $185 per month for those months. So basically, it was pretty much the same price, because of the incentives we received for adding the Edge program, and we were able to get 2 new phones. After HOURS of speaking on the phone with agents trying to correct this issue when my bill hit over $300 in October, we were finally able to fix the money problem and I wasn't "overcharged". However, there has been no one in this company that has been able to help me fix the other pretty big problem with THEIR error. Since they "fixed" the problem in October, they started my Edge program over, and basically shafted me out of 5 months and payments towards the 2 phones. The only reason we agree to do the edge program was to upgrade phones every 12 months, but now because of VERIZON'S MISTAKE, we are going to have to make 17 payments to reach that halfway point. All they keep telling me is that I wasn't on Edge for those 5 months, so I wasn't paying for the phones, but what noone understands, is that if they never screwed up and canceled my edge on accident, then I would have been paying basically the same amount of money every month, except I would be 5 payments further on my plan. I don't care where they allocated my payments, this was VERIZONS mistake and they need to go back those 6 months and fix every bill to show that I was on the edge program and they need to update my account, but refuse to help me. WHO SHOULD I CONTACT FOR HELP? News companies, better business bureau?? I'm so frustrated.

    This happened to me to and I feel strongly that Verizon should correct the extension of the end date on 2 phones on my account. I upgraded 3 lines on my account on the same day in April 2014 - one line has continued on the Edge program correctly, 2 lines were taken off the Edge program in error by Verizon and when Verizon discovered their error (and of course caused billing issues that were difficult to work through) and put the 2 phones back on the Edge program, those 2 phones now have a much later end date than the one line that didn't get canceled off Edge (again error  by Verizon). During my last conversation with a Verizon rep while correcting the billing issue, I asked if they could correct the issue on the completion/upgrade timeline on the 2 lines Verizon messed up & was told it was a different department I would need to talk to....I am working up the time & patience to spend on a call to Verizon to see if there is anyway they will fix this as they should!

  • Eligibility for auto title after charge off

    Looking for some info on this here prior to moving forward with any next steps I take. Not looking for any illegal or loophole way to screw my previous financing obligation, just honest info. Back in 2001 I purchased a vehicle under Cap One Auto. After about two years of current payments I hit a block in my finances after a job loss. Needless to say I quickly lost the ability to continue paying on the vehicle. Before I knew it, I was in over my head in debt on the vehicle. The vehicle was never reposessed but my creit was obviously impacted with a charge off status for the loan. The car has never been in hiding and I have never attempted to weasel my way out of any of it. The vehicle is 14 years old now and the charge off was recently dropped from my credit report 6-12 months back. I am in a much better place now, financially speaking, and much more responsible with my finances. I have no intent on keeping the vehicle for the rest of my life but I am not sure what options I have as far as whether or not I would even be able to obtain the title for the vehicle. As far as I can remember, I believe the remaining balance was about 6-8k. I live in California and would like to move forward from this vehicle but I would hate to have the charge off or any negative reporting reappear from trying to inquire on information or even title for the vehicle. While I would hate to have to pay the 6-8k on this, I completely understand my obligation to pay, but at the same time if I am able to settle for a lesser amount or other option, I would gladly do so. My main concern is with having any negative or chargeoff reporting reappear on my credit. 

    user_2000 wrote:
    Looking for some info on this here prior to moving forward with any next steps I take. Not looking for any illegal or loophole way to screw my previous financing obligation, just honest info. Back in 2001 I purchased a vehicle under Cap One Auto. After about two years of current payments I hit a block in my finances after a job loss. Needless to say I quickly lost the ability to continue paying on the vehicle. Before I knew it, I was in over my head in debt on the vehicle. The vehicle was never reposessed but my creit was obviously impacted with a charge off status for the loan. The car has never been in hiding and I have never attempted to weasel my way out of any of it. The vehicle is 14 years old now and the charge off was recently dropped from my credit report 6-12 months back. I am in a much better place now, financially speaking, and much more responsible with my finances. I have no intent on keeping the vehicle for the rest of my life but I am not sure what options I have as far as whether or not I would even be able to obtain the title for the vehicle. As far as I can remember, I believe the remaining balance was about 6-8k. I live in California and would like to move forward from this vehicle but I would hate to have the charge off or any negative reporting reappear from trying to inquire on information or even title for the vehicle. While I would hate to have to pay the 6-8k on this, I completely understand my obligation to pay, but at the same time if I am able to settle for a lesser amount or other option, I would gladly do so. My main concern is with having any negative or chargeoff reporting reappear on my credit. Your first step is to contact CA DMV as to the status of the title. Even though the loan is over 14 years old and CAP ONE has charged off the loan, it's a safe bet it's still recorded on your title. Chances are also that if you or CAP ONE are no longer in possession of the title, you're going to need a lien release before CA DMV will let you apply for a duplicate. They will advise you as to what can be done to have the lien removed because of age, but again chances are you're going to have to contact CAP ONE if not directly, through certified mail.  I can't give any advice on how contacting CAP ONE would impact your credit history or whether it may restart the SOL clock, but IMHO sooner or later you're going to have to talk to them.      Hoping you have positive results.

  • I am having issues with being kicked off the internet intermittently. ATT says its not an issue with their service. Does anyone have an idea?

    I am having issues with being kicked off the internet intermittently. ATT states its not an issue with their service. Any ideas?

    Yes it is NOT your internet service. It is Apples OSX. It seems to be happening to older computers trying to run the newer OSX ( Mavericks and newer). I have a 2009 iMac I bought with Leopard installed, I upgraded to Snow leopard 10.6.8 and my computer was running flawlessly. I upgraded to Mountain Lion and I noticed my computer running slower... kind of annoying having to wait longer for everything (start up, browsers opening up, apps opening up, mail opening up and so on) Mavericks came out for free and I was excited to get out of this issue. Well, everything went from bad to terrible! Fast user switching had a glitch with desktop picture resetting to the wave, mail rules didn't work properly and I kept getting kicked off the internet (Absolutely NOTHING wrong with my internet). No one could figure out what was going on or how to fix it, even senior Apple tech's! After 3-4 months of searching, troubleshooting and waiting for a fix, I looked at my Mac Pro running Tiger 10.4.11 with no issues what so ever... that is when I made an executive decision. GO BACK TO SNOW LEOPARD! Since May 2014 I have been running 10.6.8 on my 2009 iMac and it has been smoking fast with NO issues what so ever, especially since I maxed out my memory for Mavericks. So to sum it up: some people might get lucky with old machines running new operating systems, but for the most part, it seems older processors can't keep up with the new sophisticated operating systems. Mavericks... Yosemite... FREE UPGRADE! But you will pay the price

  • Getting old site off the 'net without appropriate files. (to start over with same domain name)

    As a complete novice, I'm not even sure how to start this question...but, I have tried everything and I think I have "lost" my website in terms of bringing in back into DW and changing/updating it.  My backup files on my computer have disappeared and the appropriate files through my cPanel to bring it back to in order make changes aren't there.  The website still functions, but it is outdated for my business needs.
    So, at this point, my question is this; how can I gain control over the domain and start over from scratch.  I don't want what is out there anymore, but without control through the above mentioned devices, is it even possible to build a new website and get the old one off the 'net as it is and still keep the original www.name.com?
    I'm clueless at this point.  Thanks.

    Chazmonk wrote:
    So, at this point, I don't know what is really going on.  My main goal was to get my existing website off the net and put something updated on with the same domain name.  I was successful with what JTANNA suggested, but I don't know what I'm doing with a mirrored site in terms of what my needs are.  I am not against changing the domain name and just leaving this one out there, though I did put a great deal of time into building it.  I would take some further help if anyone has more suggestions, but I'm about ready to move one.
    Thanks for trying to help.
    You will need to sort out the FTP issues because when you have edited your site, you will need to upload it and so FTP details will be required.
    Your first port-of-call to sort this out is to contact your host who can reset the password for you so that you can start all over again.  The alternative, is to give your password/login details to Murray (PRIVATELY) so that he can try from his machine.  When this is done, you can always change the password for your own security.
    hth

  • HT204088 My credit card was charge with out my approval, how can I get support with the issue?

    My credit card was charge with out my approval, how can I get support with the issue?

    If it's a purchase that appears on your purchase history (and not a temporary store holding charge which is made each time that you add or change your credit card details) and nobody else has access to your account and/or devices, then you can either try the 'report a problem' link from your purchase history to contact iTunes Support : http://reportaproblem.apple.com
    Or you can try contacting iTunes Support via this page : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page, then Purchases, Billing & Redemption

  • TS4062 restored iphone from icloud so I could have all my old photos but now I cannot get it to restore or sync with itunes either by cable or by wifi. I have tried with automatic download off/on, I have had red circles, hours of syncing, nothing, help!!

    restored iphone from icloud so I could have all my old photos but now I cannot get it to restore or sync with itunes either by cable or by wifi. I have tried with automatic download off/on, I have had red circles, hours of syncing, nothing, help!!

    Seems to be a common issue in discussions. Try this:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1538
    And let me know if it helps,

  • HT201272 Before backing up my old iphone4 I traded it in for an iphone5. All of the apps I purchased I had no problem retrieving from itunes with no charge but I can't download music that I have already paid for that was not backed up w/out paying again.

    Before backing up my old iphone4 I traded it in for an iphone5. All of the apps I purchased had no problem downloading to my new phone from itunes with no charge, but I can't download music that I have already paid for that was not backed up w/out paying again. How can I get these songs to my new phone without having to buy them again?

    Whether you can re-download music depends upon what country that you are in (and whether it remains in the store). If you don't have a Music section in the Purchased tab in the iTunes store app on your phone for re-downloading it, then do you not have you library on your computer's iTunes or on your backup of your downloads ? If not then you could try contacting iTunes Support and see if they will grant you a re-download

  • I have problem with my iphone 4s my battery is not keeping charge. how can I get help with this one. it is less than a year that I purchased this cell.

    I have problem with my iphone 4s my battery is not keeping charge. how can I get help with this one? it is less than a year that I purchased this cell.

    I would like to know the answer to that one.  I realized this was happening just after upgradeing my iOS to 6.  Then when I looked up my purchase date, I was about 5 days past my one year warranty.  So I'm dead in the water.  Apple will replace the battery, but it will be about $80+.  I took it to the Apple store, and they checked a bunch of stuff, but said that it seemed ok.  I'm debating getting a battery for a more reasonable price off of ebay.  But if it's the iOS thats draining the battery, then I'm not going to be able to help it.  I wish I knew a better way to tell if its the battery, the phone, or the iOS.

  • How can I get my Boot Camp partition off my old drive?

    I swapped out the stock 160gb drive that came in my MacBook Pro since it was acting up. I installed a new drive and restored it with Time Machine, but now my Boot Camp partition is still on my old drive. I slipped my old drive into a usb sata enclosure and tried booting from it in hope I could back it up with Winclone. When I went into the startup disk selector the drive would not show up (but it sounded like it was trying to spin up). Earlier when I pulled the drive out of my MacBook Pro it was still functioning fine, so I do not think the drive has failed.
    Any ideas on how I can get the Boot Camp partition off the old drive? Thanks for your help.
    -Ryan

    Some drives require more current to spin-up from a "cold start" than most USB ports put out, even if the port supplies. Additionally, if the drive is failing, it may require even more power for the startup.
    I have a couple USB enclosures with external AC power that I keep around in case I run into drives like this. Failing that, I also have a couple of USB cables which use 2 ports to provide additional current. Also the cable length, and gauge makes a difference.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Follow Oracle OpenWorld Updates on Twitter

    Follow Oracle OpenWorld Updates on Twitter - Follow http://twitter.com/exadata Find a complete Exadata 2009 Oracle OpenWorld session schedule at: http://www.oracle.com/technology/products/bi/db/exadata/pdf/focuson.pdf

  • Delete tasks under request

    Hi experts, I have a request under which i have 100s of objects. How do i delete the entrire request at a go..?/ Thanks DV

  • Oracle Lite 10g

    Hello, does spatial work with oracle lite 10g, is it possible to build mobile spatial application with oracle database? Thank you

  • My mac mini starts up no video

    my mac mini starts up with a chime no video to the monitor any suggestions?

  • Forgot my liveCycle Designer License Key

    Hi, I forgot the Adobe LiveCycle Designer license Key. Now i want to know the license key of it. How to get it. or where to see it in my Adobe LiveCycle application? Thanks & Regards, Anand.S