Elements 8 .CR2 Issue with 5D Mark III

I just bought a new Canon 5D Mark III. I have Elements 8. I also have an older Canon Rebel XSi. When I try to import the new .cr2 files from the Mark III into Elements the program is telling me that the files are corrupted. I know that Elements can read other .cr2 files as I have thousands of them loaded in from my old camera. In addition, Windows 8 is able to view the new files by simply using the native photo viewing program built into the operating system.
What do you think may be wrong? This is the first test batch of photos from my new camera.

Canon 5d mark 3 is supported on Camera raw 6.7, which is compatible with PSE 10 & 11.
You can use DNG convertor 6.7
refer the following to knowmore:
MAC: http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5374
Windows: http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5375
Thanks
Harshit yadav

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Why aren't my .CR2 RAW files opening in Elements 9.0 from my Canon Mark III 5D?

I am super confused as to why my old Canon Rebel CR2 (RAW) files have always opened in Elements 9.0, but now my new camera (Canon Mark III 5D)'s RAW files are not opening? Thanks!

You have two alternatives:
(1) Upgrade to PSE 11. (2) Download and install the free Adobe DNG converter to convert your raw files to the Adobe universal Raw format and the files will open in all versions of PSE (keep your originals as backups and for use in the camera manufactures software)
Windows download click here DNG Converter 7.3
Mac download click here DNG Converter 7.3
You can convert a whole folder of raw images in one click. See this quick video tutorial:
You Tube click here for DNG Converter tutorial

Best settings for Green Screen Video with Canon Mark iii

HI
What are the ideal camera settings for Green screen video.
Iso?
aperature?
Depth of field settings (best to have the green screen a bit out of focus?)
Any other camera settings would be helpful.
Thanks
Rowby

Hi Rowby!
Thanks so much for writing in about green screen shooting with the EOS 5D Mark III camera. Green screen shooting can come down to some crucial elements and how well you handle the camera and the lighting.
Arguably the most important thing is to have excellent lighting on the screen. Without this, the keys used to replace the green screen will not be accurate. So hopefully you have a good set of lights you will be using to actually light the physical screen.
With regards to ISO, shoot as low as possible. We suggest that you stick in the ISO 200-400 range where possible. With good, high key, proper lighting on the screen this shouldn't be an issue.
Aperture should actually be in the higher end of the range, you would want to stick to apertures around f/8 and above. Again, with adequate lighting this shouldn't be out of reach. This is so the green screen is more in focus, versus having it out of focus, which would not yield successful results.
Use an appropriate lens to the subject, for example if you are doing wide shots- use only the focal length needed for the shoot and no wider. For head shots, close ups- use a lens that will get you close.
Following these suggestions should give you some pretty good results. Remember, if this is your first attempt don't be discouraged, green screen shooting can be difficult to accomplish.
We wish you the best of luck in your endeavor!
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Photoshop Elements Plug-in for Canon 5D Mark III

I just got a new Canon 5D Mark III camera. I can not open RAW files in Photoshop Elements 7. I previously had a nikon D200 and was able to read RAW files after I downloaded plugin. What plugin do I need to download for the Canon. Can't seem to find one.

Update to PSE12 or use Canon DPP that came with your camera disk. Alternatively, download and install the free Adobe DNG converter to convert your raw files to the Adobe universal Raw format and the files will open in all versions of PSE (keep your originals as backups and for use in the camera manufactures software)
Windows download (.exe file) click here DNG Converter 8.2
Mac download (.dmg file) click here DNG Converter 8.2
You can convert a whole folder of raw images in one click. See this quick video tutorial:
You Tube click here for DNG Converter tutorial

Convert to DNG doesn't work in Bridge with 5D mark III

I'm using CS6 and the 'Convert to DNG" option doesn't work when I download my Canon 5D Mark III files, but it works with my 5D Mark II files. HOW can I get this to work. I've had to convert using the DNG converter.

Update ACR to 8.7.1 and you won't have to convert to DNG at all. the 8.7.1 DNG converter also supports the Mark 3.

Elements 4 Compatibility issue with Vista

Everything was fine 'till my old faithful pc, and Windows XP, went belly up. Now the new pc, with Vista won't allow the complete Elements program to operate. I'm told, "This program has known compatibility issues". If the issues are known, can someone please tell me how to resolve the issue. I can't seem to find any answer. I'm operating on a Hewlett Packard - HPw1707, and have an HP Photosmart C6270 all-in-one printer. 465 GB capacity. I'd really like to be able to work with Elements 4 and hope for help. Thanks

What exactly the problem is?
Is this printer not accessible through PSE4 or what?
+ Ripple

Installed New System Mother Board/CPU PhotoShop Element has a Issue with this Help

I have PhotoShop Elements 11 and I replaced the ASUS P6T W i7-920 CPU Mother Borad with Intel DZ87KLT-75K and intel i7-4770k CPU and had big issue, it would not boot up with the same number of Device I had on the ASUS P6T mother board and had to replace the mother board ASUS Z87 Deluxe/Dual Board, and the PhotoShop Elements_11 shows that the program is loaded on more (two) system when it is on the same my home computer only. The same C:/ Hard Drive with new hardware System. How can I take care of this issue, The program is on the same System Named (Schmidt Master System) only with new Hardware MotherBoard and CPU. Please Help Gerald j Schmidt Port Washington, WI [email protected]

You need to contact support directly for activation/deactivation and other installation issues. It’s usually possible to start a live chat, if an Adobe agent is free, and often to get the problem fixed right away.
To get help now click here for product support

Hi. I'm having trouble with noise at high ISO settings with 5D Mark III.

I've only recently starting using this camera and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. The high ISO NR is set on high but I'm still seeing noise above ISO 1000. Am I perhaps just not focusing correctly. I had a daytime shoot today, but we were in low light areas at times and I cranked up the ISO but when I processed I had to do NR in LR which only slightly remedied the problem. Please advise. I noticed on the forum that there was a firmware upgrade. I bought the camera in December do I have to do an upgrade as well?

Yeah, with older versions of LR and PS I would specially convert high ISO RAW files using DPP, instead of my usual process with Lightroom and Photoshop. But now I've seen a big improvement in NR with the later versions of Adobe products... Lightroom 3 and later Photoshop CS5 and later. Now using LR4 and CS6, I rarely see need to use Canon DPP.
But I also use Noiseware Pro at times, with particularly high ISO shots. It can be used as a stand-alone or as a Photoshop plug-in. (I do the latter.)
If shooting JPEGs, make sure your in-camera NR settings are correct. All digital images start out as RAW files.... when you set the camera to produce JPEGs instead, you are simply doing the RAW conversion in-camera and all the "extra" data is thrown away in the process.
The key thing in any case is to avoid underexposure at all costs.
In order to minimize noise at all levels, you do not want to be increasing (pushing) exposure at all during post-processing. In fact, it's often better to be pulling or reducing exposure a bit. I know folks who regularly over-expose +1/3 or even +2/3 stop at higher ISOs... sometimes even more depending upon the situation. They get really good results.
Canon's metering seems to still follow the old rule of slight underexposure that was useful with slide/transparency film. You had to be very careful to prevent over-exposure with slide film, because the highlights in transparencies are a lack any "data"... the final image on the film is nearly or completely clear in those areas.... while shadow areas have a wealth of "data".
With digital files, it's just the opposite. Shadows are an absence of data, while highlights are a preponderence of it. So you are a lot better off over-exposing slightly... In other words, with digital files highlights are more "recoverable" than shadows. Just don't do too much, as it's still possible to "blow out" highlights to the point that fine detail is unrecoverably lost.
I also agree that one of the mistakes people make is viewing their images too large on their computer monitor. If you are looking at an image "100%", that's the same as viewing a 5 foot wide print from 18" away (assuming that your computer monitor is a typical modern one and is set to it's native resolution). Unless you are planning on making a 40x60" print, and even then since you will likely be viewing it from a much greater distance, back off to 50% or less when evaluating your images (feel free to zoom in when retouching, just don't expect miracles).
The best way to evaluate your images is with a print, anyway. You'll be stunned at the dynamic range, additioanl fine detail and overall quality of an image, once it's printed. It is nearly always far and away better than what you see on your computer monitor. When printing use a high quality printer and smooth, matte paper, for the the most critical evaluation . If your printer isn't able to print large enough, crop out a section of the image. Glossy and lustre/semi-gloss papers actually hide a lot of fine detail.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Canon 5D Mark III Jpeg problem

Received my new 5D Mark iii today. Pretty happy so far however I have noticed a strange issue with Apple Aperture when viewing jpegs from the 5d mark iii. I noticed a white line at the top of the frame or the left of the frame on vertical shots. It is more noticeable in full screen mode in Aperture.
I opened the jpegs in PS, Preview, DPP and the Finder and none of them show this white edge line.
The other odd thing is if I export a jpeg of one of these out of Aperture and then load the exported file the white edge line switches sides of the image. Also I noticed if I save a jpeg version out of PS and then import that into Aperture I do not see the white edge line.
I tried shots using multiple lenses as well with the same result.
Seems like Aperture has some issue with 5d mark iii jpegs. Don't think it is the camera since PS, DPP and Preview don't show the same issue.
Wondering if others have noticed this same problem?

Here is another example. This one I exported to Smugmug from Aperture and no white edge in the Smugmug posting. Definitely seems to be some wierd Aperture problem.

5D mark III lens correction problem with dark shots

Just found a new irritating problem with 5D mark III and Lightroom 4 (currently on 4.2). I shot quite a few shots in the dark over the weekend using high ISO (6400-16000), with EF 24-70 f/2.8L. If I enable the lens profile correction on the dark shots, the corners of the images all develop incredibly strong purple haze that renders the image unusable. Not enabling the correction allows me to use the images just fine. Also images that were shot with similar settings but were shot inside, with more light, don't have the purple fringing issue. Makes me wonder if this is some incompatibility between Canon's high iso noise reduction system and Lightroom's RAW processing when it does lens corrections.
Anyone else seen this?

Sulka Haro wrote:
Replicated the shot under a heavy blanket -> yes, the exposure looks the same. Whatever is causing the corner to be noisier than rest of the exposure doesn't seem to be caused by light.
At that very high of ISO you are actually seeing small differences in the sensor chip temperature due to heat from the electronics in the camera. The small amount of increased noise you're seeing in the corner at ISO 25600 is insignificant.
Sulka Haro wrote:
Interestingly enabling long exposure compensation doesn't seem to do very much to really improve the shots at these sensitivities. When enabled, the exaggerated corner noise does disappear, but also it looks like some areas in the middle of the exposure become more noisy with non-uniform noise blotches appearing instead of fairly uniform slightly higher noise pattern.
I haven't needed to use Long Exposure Noise Reduction with my 5D MKII, so have no firsthand experience. My guess is that at very high ISO settings (above 6400) a lot of what your are seeing is random noise or "shot noise," which changes from frame to frame. This causes the dark frame subtraction to "fail" in the way you are seeing. Just a guess.
There is an excellent 5D MKIII review that compares noise reduction with several other high-end camera models. The reviewer also states,
"The 5D Mark III's ISO 51200 and 102400 remain a complete mess even with strong noise reduction applied - You have to be desperate to use these settings. ISO 12800 and 25600 remain very marginal for my uses. I always shoot in the lowest standard ISO setting that will allow me to get my desired shot, but begin to cringe when settings above ISO 3200 must be employed. Your standards and applications may be different."

Images from Canon 5D Mark III not appearing super sharp in Photoshop CS6 or Lightroom 4

I have a brand new Macbook Pro with Retina Display and am running CS6, shooting with a Mark III in full resolution raw format. Focus is on in camera but when I open the images in Photoshop, they do not appear super sharp when zoomed in. Is this a display issue or a program issue or something else? In the past I can usually get the images so sharp that I can see every pore and hair.

I would try in other programs and see what they look like. Since it is same camera and PS, they should be as sharp as before. Maybe the screen, as it is the variable here?

Canon 5D Mark III - underexposes

Hello,
I've noticed that my Canon 5D Mark III underexposes somewhere between 2/3 stops and one stop.
I've taken a test photo and I've attached the histogram and the exif. I photographed a white sheet of paper
Is this behaviour normal or is there a problem in the camera's metering system?
Thanks,
Catalin
Histogram
Test photo
I have also attached the full exif:
[Image]
Make = Canon
Model = Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
Date Time = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Artist = Catalin Fuioaga
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Copyright = Catalin Fuioaga
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 360
GPS Info IFD Pointer = Offset: 9554
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
8830 = 2
8832 = 2000
Exif Version = 30, 32, 33, 30
Date Time Original = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Date Time Digitized = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 7.63 TV
Aperture Value = 5 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm
Maker Note = 8152 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time =
Subsec Time Original =
Subsec Time Digitized =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2880
Exif Image Height = 1920
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 9326
Focal Plane X Resolution = 1971.253
Focal Plane Y Resolution = 1975.309
Focal Plane Resolution Unit = inch
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Scene Capture Type = Normal
A430 =
A431 = 073024017512
A432 = 24/1, 105/1, 0/1, 0/1
A434 = EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM
A435 = 00001bcf3a
[GPS]
GPS Version ID = 2, 3, 0, 0
[Interoperability]
Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0
[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 11444
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 3320
[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 160 x 120

"....Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm..."
You are in partial metering mode, which is fine if you are shooting a plain white piece of paper. However most of the time I'd recommend either Evaluative instead, or if you are more accustomed to it, Center Weighted. Or use Spot Metering in some cases. Partial is sort of like a "Large Spot Metering" mode.
Evaluative has the advantage of putting extra emphasis on the area right around the active AF point, i.e. presumably around your subject. The rest of the image area is considered, too, but more weight is given to the active AF point. Center Weighted metering doesn't do this (it's sort of an "old fashioned" method of metering, but some people are accustomed to it from using older cameras.)
Do a Google search on Expose To The Right (ETTR), which is a common technique used by Canon shooters. Like hsbn mentioned above, I think Canon is a bit conservative about their metering, erring a little toward underexposure to "protect the highlights". This was a good practice back in the days of slide film, but is just the opposite of what you want to do with digital. To minimize noise in images, it's better to slightly overexpose and pull the exposure back down a little in post processing. Not a lot... just +1/3 to +2/3 stop. Here is a link to one of the better descriptions of ETTR I've seen. There are other tutorials and discussions about it other places online, so do a search if you wish.
Oh, and there was an exposure issue with the 5D III early on. The problem was a light leak near the top LCD, that would cause underexposure from additional light reaching the metering array in the viewfinder. Canon did a recall made some changes to fix the problem. Yours would have to be a very early production camera that was never fixed under the recall, to have this problem. The problem would vary, depending upon how strong light was striking the top of the camera whle shooting. Outside on a bright sunny day would cause more error than shooting indoors in low light.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

"Preview not available" for raw Canon 5d Mark III files

Please help. I can't seem to get my mac to import my raw files from the first wedding I shot last weekend with my Mark III. All my jpgs are fine, just can't seem to import the raw. I've downloaded the 4.1 update and still the same issue.

Canon 5d Mark III is not supported as of now by Adobe Camera Raw
Check this for suppoted list of cameras : http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html
--Baljeet

5d Mark III not downloading RAW

Got my 5D Mark III a couple of days back. I took a few pictures in RAW-JPEG. While I tried to download, it launches EOS Utility(latest version) and hangs. I tried the same CF card on 40D and it was able to import without problem. I tried other software like Picasa, Adobe Bridge, iPhoto, Picasa and Adobe are not able to connect to the camera. EOS Utility is able to connect and I was able to remotely control the camera and take photos. I was able to download JPEG only files as well. But when it comes to Raw, the software goes unresponsive and loses connection. Once in a while everything works fine as well (even RAW), that is the strange part
My Computer and softwares are up-to-date. Infact the 5D MIII I got through CPS Load worked fine without issues. I also made sure the CF Card and Cable are also fine.
Is it a known problem? or should I return the camera. Thanks in advance for your response

pgsdeepak wrote:
Got my 5D Mark III a couple of days back. I took a few pictures in RAW-JPEG. While I tried to download, it launches EOS Utility(latest version) and hangs. I tried the same CF card on 40D and it was able to import without problem. I tried other software like Picasa, Adobe Bridge, iPhoto, Picasa and Adobe are not able to connect to the camera. EOS Utility is able to connect and I was able to remotely control the camera and take photos. I was able to download JPEG only files as well. But when it comes to Raw, the software goes unresponsive and loses connection. Once in a while everything works fine as well (even RAW), that is the strange part
My Computer and softwares are up-to-date. Infact the 5D MIII I got through CPS Load worked fine without issues. I also made sure the CF Card and Cable are also fine.
Is it a known problem? or should I return the camera. Thanks in advance for your response
As Stephen said, any additional info about your system will help indeed.
In my case I'm using Win XP 32 bit in this machine and don't have any problems at all to download RAW+JPG.
I'm using the bundled software that came with the camera (CD/DVD), still didn't update it.
- Just in case, why don't you try uninstalling EOS Utility software and all its additional components, and reinstall it again from the CD/DVD? At least to discard a software malfunction.
- BTW, we found that many USB cables worked fine with 5D Mark II but not with 5D Mark III. After changing the USB cable we were able to connect the camera to the computer without any problem. Sounds weird, but after some use the connectors of some USB cables loosen and don't work properly on some cameras or devices.
Regards
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

5D Mark III HSS Problem in Low light

We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

mortontd wrote:
We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
There's definitely something wonky about this situation. If anything, the photo should be DARKER when using HSS. And flash compensation has no effect, but exposure compensation does? That doesn't make much sense with regard to the flash power. Exposure compensation should have no effect on the flash at all if you're shooting in Av mode.
Try shooting in manual, and do a "factory reset" of your camera body and reset all custom functions.

Elements 8 .CR2 Issue with 5D Mark III

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