EVB3 overly noisy?

Hello,
Tonight I'm using EVB3 on my MBPro, using the built-in audio.
Granted, EVB3 is supposed to emulate an old noisy B3, but I'm wondering if what I'm hearing is more distorted than expected.
Take for example "Classic Tonewheel". Try a CMaj chord starting on C4. It's very dirty, but almost like digital distortion-y. I have the levels of the Instrument and Out strips down low enough to not light up the red indicators. I've turned EVB3's Tone and Drive in the Distortion section all the way down to 0.
Could others out there try the above, too?
Maybe it's as intended. However, what if I like the general sound quality of "Classic Tonewheel", for example, but wanted to clean it up?
Thoughts?
Thanks.
-Allan

Allan:
I noticed that the volumes of some of the patches are very high and tend to distort with chording. My suggestion is to watch the meter in the channel strip and dial back the volume on the EVB3 when the signal gets too hot.

Similar Messages

PV2012 locals sometimes don't behave well...

Here's one example:
The squiggles are due to local paint with highlights = -30.
Note: global highlight reduction of same, or greater strength, does not result in so much darkness, nor so much desaturation.
Note2: marked darkening/grayness/desaturation occurs even at much lower values for -highlights, e.g. -5 (I increased value to exagerate the problem).
Here is the raw+xmp, zipped:
http://www.robcole.com/LrForumSupport/20120505RC193027NB4328.O.zip
I have noticed many other less extreme but similarly-flavored cases.
Others have reported similar "unexpected" (to the layman) behaviors too, e.g.
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1214206
(see posts about white bed-sheet made "gray-ish" by applying -exposure local, such did not occur when reducing exposure globally)
Rob

Previous text here was deleted...
[edit]:
OK, after more experimental painting, I see that the grayness is really only in the parts that were nearest to over-exposure - which was the *only* part painted initially (I think you tried to tell me that - sorry it took so long for me to arrive there...). Still, I'm not sure why the color would be so different in the brightest parts like that, I mean *none* of the channels were blown, right? Oh well, at least I have a better handle on it than I did before.
Question: it was near-to-impossible to get the paint to lay down the same way as originally painted - has there been some change to the paint-flow algorithm, or was it just me...?
[/edit]
[edit #2]:
OK, so I was pretty much wrong about part 2 also, wasn't I? - local effect and strength is close to the global... Cr@p - I hate being wrong! . The bottom line is that the behavior of highlights slider when the tonal distribution is as it is in this photo is very "squirrelly" (for lack of a better word) - highlights adjustment is extremely sensitive and reaches way past the midline into the shadows - way more so than exposure does, which seems counter-intuitive, but is not entirely out of character for pv12, this is just a very extreme case...
[/edit #2]
Anyway, here are some snapshots which illustrate the phenomenon
http://www.robcole.com/Rob/Personal/Pictures/LrForumSupport.cfm?embedSWF&openDir=Bad%20Moo n&openFile=20120505RC193027NB4328.O._v_Copy%201.jpg
Note: you may have to context-click the link and choose "Open Link in New...".
Tip: use the big button, the full button, and the i button; click the next button repeatedly to compare.
[edit #3]:
Original settings, with snail trails:
note: Global basics did most of the heavy lifting, but there is also a subtle tone curve and some other subtle adjustments.
As finished:
note: Global basics did most of the heavy lifting, but there is also a subtle tone curve and some other subtle adjustments.
Note: Nikon D300, ISO2000.
Explanation:
* Exposure was brought up to brighten the sky without relying soley on shadows slider.
* Contrast was brought down to decompress/debrighten moon and decompress/brighten dark tones: note: there are no midtones, per se, and contrast could be even more negative, but if too negative, there is a loss of richness that is hard to regain using +vib/sat/clarity...
* Highlights negative to de-brighten the moon, which was already over-bright, and to compensate for raised exposure.
* Shadows positive to assist exposure in brightening the sky.
* Whites negative to keep moon from being over-bright, -highlights alone does not suffice... (moon had "vividness" to spare, so to speak, and a little "dulling" via -whites was actually a plus in this case). Worth noting: -highlights darkens the sky too, a lot (even though not in the highlight tonal range as most people would think of it), -whites: not so much. It was primarily the "hyper-sensitive" (and non intuitive) behavior of the highlights slider, which made this photo such a challenge to edit in PV2012 (original edit was during Lr4 beta, before I had as much experience with pv12).
* Blacks must be negative to keep trees from being under-black and over-noisy - I wanted them to be silohuette black... Also, -blacks had the (in this case fortunate) side effect of bringing out (exagerating) the blue in the night sky.
* Clarity primarily to enhance moon detail (could have used local on the moon, e.g. radial gradient in Lr5). There was already sufficient tree/sky separation due to the -blacks +shadows combo, and one of the subtle locals was to decrease shadow strength around the tree/sky line, for a more natural look.
* Saturation because, well, I like color... (and strong negative contrast robs some color, no pun intended).
Note: I experimented with "less extreme" settings, and there were other combos that were ok-ish, but without strong adjustments, as I was able to make them, this photo just couldn't make the cut, as I judged it, and would have been discarded.
[/edit]
PS - I am open to seeing an interpretation of this photo which employs "less extreme" (more moderate) settings, if anybody else is willing to give it a whorl...
~R.
Message was edited (3 times) by: Rob Cole
PPS - big thanks to Vit .

NOISY MAC HINDERING VOICE OVER

Hi
I need to do a voice over on a video in a week or so. I have a G4 Tower - duel 1 Ghz (sometimes referred to as the 'wind tunnel' I believe). Meaning, it's a really noisy by todays standards.
I bought it new in 02, and it still works flawlessly - except for the fact it sounds like hair dryer running on a low setting.
At one time, Apple sent me a new power supply that is a little quieter, but still annoyingly loud.
So ... what is recommended to shut this thing up when doing a voice over? Do I need to get some sort of long extension for my 17 in monitor, and put it in another room with the mic - or stick pillows around the computer itself and stuff it in a closet?
Thanks!
-TOWERSCOPE

I've actually done that (the pillows thing). Then I made a box with foam glued to the inside that I would set over it when I had to do a VO... annoying, but the cheap way out. They also make sound-proof, air-cooled cabinets...
http://www.norenproducts.com/Acoustilock/gCAB.html
or DIY:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-67334.html
N

I use Garageband 09 to record voice overs via podcasting, female narrator noisy, but keep getting an intermittent clicking sound. It's not the metronome. I have a good quality external USB mic plugged in. Any ideas?

I use GarageBand 09 to record voice overs via the Podcasting then Female Narrator Noisy utility. I have a good quality external mic plugged in. I keep getting an intermittent clicking sound on the audio track. It's not the metronome as that is turned off. I have to edit out the clicking after recording. I can see the spikes on the waveline. Any ideas how I can prevent this happening?

Hi again and thanks so much for replying.
The 'mic jack' on the old mic is both wide and large, measuring about an inch and a quarter from the base (where it comes out of the black encasing) to the edge of the tip (sort of cone shaped). As I can't plug this in directly to any port in the back of the Mac, I thought it might be possible to to buy some sort of adapter so that I could plug in the jack at one end, with a USB connector at the other end to go straight into the Mac. But I see from your comment that you are suggesting a smaller jack itself (i.e., large size jack to small size jack and then plug in to the small round port, instead of jack to USB port)?
At the Mac shop I bought a USB adapter to connect up a second monitor (screen). I've just dug out the package and it's called a mini display port to VGA adapter. But back to the mic issue, I don't want to use the old mic really, I'm just trying to eliminate whether or not my usual mic, or its USB cable, is at fault and causing the clicking.
I looked on Amazon for a suitable adapter but there was mention of these little gadgets having a sound card. As the Mac obviously has its own internal sound card, I couldn't see the point of another (exernal) one, unless it was actually required to convert the sound from input to output (playback) or something. One review said sound quality was lost but the person had a problem with his speakers, not a ticking sound while playing back recordings - which is obviously my problem.
I do have a headset that I used to use for Skype. It has a pink and a green jack. I could plug one into the "headphones symbol' port and try recording again with Garageband. At least the jack is the right size. Again, this is just for the purpose of eliminating whether my good mic on a stand with the anti-popping sheild is at fault.
While my Mac does have both inbuilt speakers (I don't need external ones) and an inbuilt microphone, the latter is not of a high enough quality for voice overs, hence buying an external mic etc. But whatever is causing the clicking or ticking is obviously affecting the quality of my recordings. As you can imagine, it is very time-consuming to edit out the ticking spikes and if the noise appears during speech, you can't edit it out at all.
Please keep the suggestions coming. I am determined to get to the bottom of this for my sake and everyone else who is suffering from the same problem!

Sony A300 ACR Defaults noisy and over exposed

I have a A300, ACR 5.1 and Elements 6.0 I have recently compared three raw plugins, Adobe ACR, Sony's image convertor and Silkypix free. With the Sony s/w I turned off all automatic processing. The results are a surprise.
The same raw file has much more noise when being opened in ACR and requires a great deal of exposure reduction to reduce highlights and get the highlight warning to disappear from within the plugin.
When saved as jpegs from the various covertors the ACR is noiser and all settings seem too strong. On very noisey photos (or at least photo that look noisey from within ACR) it some times isn't possible to clean up the noise. It just doesn't seem ACR is doing a propper job of opening the Sony raw files.
I do like the ACR plugin and it is much quicker than the Sony but at the moment there does a ppear to be a quality loss using it.

OK, well I just tried this on a landscape image that is basically almost all high/mid frequency:
Amount 150
Radius 0.5
Detail 0
Masking 0 (although I would mask appropriately with any image)
and then compared it to
Amount 35
Radius 0.5
Detail 100
Masking 0
Critical viewing was at 100, 200, 300 and 400% in ACR.
I am really surprised at this! Although the sharpening is extremely close to the same amount in appearance (at 100%) the first settings with detail at 0, to my eye has a lot cleaner edges (less halowing) and definitely less artifacting in smoother areas (even w no masking). Basically at the edges of the image there seems to be less feathering of pixels transitioning them (may interpolate up better this way?).
I will do some more testing, to see how the file then handles Sharpening for Output (with the new datail at 0 settings). I am thinking at this point that your detail at 0 idea might be sound. Less artifacting and cleaner edges seems to mean that the file will take more aggressive sharpening after up sizing it, and then the grain simulation I use to disguise the artifacting may be able to be a little less aggressive.
Question, do you still approach the masking (ACR) the same way?
Lastly, I tried using the first settings of sharpening on an image interpolated to max size in ACR (about 20MP) and then tried the same capture sharpening settings on an image at native size (about 12MP) then interpolated up to 20MP using PS Smoother (remembering that ACR applies the sharpening after the uprez). I have found the ACR uprez to have more detail at ultra zoom levels. But if ACR applies the capture sharpening after the ACR uprez (if my reading is right, Jeff S said that) and the other is capture sharpened at native pixel size and then uprezzed with Bicubic Smoother, aren't I just comparing apples with oranges? Also, when taking a image from 12.9 to 19.5MP is the ACR interpolating using its algorithm that is like Smoother?

Unable to Manage Add-ons to My Account over the In...

On 27th Oct I signed up for a telephone and broadband service in a shopping arcade.
On 29th, I got a letter from BT detailing the order. The add-ons I expected were missing. I was particularly worried that I was Ex Directory and I did not want to lose my existing entry - the directory staff might close off at any time, leaving me unlisted for a whole year.
The letter told me I had an e-mail address and password, and I should check for e-mails regularly. During November I tried to access it but couldn't. I looked at BT sites and there were promises that I could amend my details over the internet.
- "Welcome to My BT
- My BT has everything you need online - you can view and download your bills 24/7, manage all your services, track your orders, get the latest offers and help - and much more"
I could not get this to work either.
Nearly 30 different explanations/advice I got for why I had no e-mail and couldn't change Add-ons over the internet are listed below.
(1) 0800 111 4567: E-mail is not working because the line is not yet connected.
I asked for technical support since this seemed to conflict with the letter.
(2) Security locked - give it 5-10 min.
I tried for 80 min. On dialling the same number
() explanation 1 again, and I asked to speak to a supervisor.
(3) Super said wait until Broadband is connected.
BT.custhelp let me send a complaint (I would rather have called it a problem at this stage). I also e-mailed a copy to the salesman.
The salesman asked me to explain what I had, in fact, patiently and carefully put in the e-mail.
(4) He said he would call BT and cancel the order. I told him I thought his brinksmanship was a poor show.
(1 again) He said to wait until the line was connected and it would be easy to sort out.
(5) Eventually he insisted on handling the Directory Entry: I also wanted a slight change to the entry so that it said {Surname} {Wife's initial} and {My initial}. It took three attempts to get him to understand this, possibly because he was in the noisy arcade. This is why I prefer to do things on-line or by post.
(6) E-mail in reply to the "complaint": wait until connected. The originator said that he was to send a helpful e-mail within 24 hours. Call closed. I had 7 days to re-open it (what if on holiday?) The e-mail never arrived.
I re-opened. A... in Belfast 'phoned me - she was enthusiastic about helping me.
(7) Unfortunately, she had already gone into my account and changed me to paperless billing. This is not one of the things I wanted - another reason to want to do my own amending on-line. She volunteered to change this so I will get both paper and on-line bills.
(6 again) She will send me a helpful e-mail with a link, and she persuaded me that the call could be closed. I am not sure I ever got that e-mail.
(8) A... 'phoned again to give me a number to call about the directory entry: I thought she had arranged something and the number she gave me would connect me with someone who would know.
The engineer arrived, connected me to BT and transfered the number. He was efficient and helpful. (But he knew nothing about BT e-mail etc.)
The 'phone line worked well and the Broadband was faster than my previous service.
I got to access my Btinternet.com e-mailbox.
I could not access BT.com/youraccount to change my Add-ons because
(9) The system claimed I had chosen the security question "Mother's Maiden Name" from a list given to me. I had not chosen this. A... had asked me that question in order to set it up but when I did not reply immediately, she gave me a choice and let me set up a different question.
Later, I accessed this web page again and instead of asking me for Mothers Maiden Name, it asked me to set up the security question and gave me the options.
I tried to get in to update my Add-ons or my Account.
(10) "We are sorry. Our records show ... Outstanding order on this line ... to discuss ... helpful advisor on 0800 731 0286 8 am to 10 pm Mon to Sat".
(11) I 'phoned this. A2 said this was Directory Entry business, but it would clear at midnight.
(10 again) The following day, same message on BT.com.
I remembered A...'s words and 'phoned the number she had given regarding my Directory entry.
It was a general number for Directory things and when I got through the "Press 1 for ..." maze, the Advisor seemed to have no record of my problem.
(12) She said that I did have a Directory Entry, so either the original threat in the letter to make me Ex- has not (yet) been processed or the salesman came through.
(13) With regard to the listing, I explained what I want, but what she said in her thick accent gave me mixed feelings about if I will get it.
(14) 0800 713 0286 again. Advisor said there was no outstanding order. I should be able to get on now. I tried BT.com again
(15) "We are sorry ... we have noticed you already have one of our great package deals. Please call one of our helpful advisors on 0800 800 150 who will advise you on how to change your package."
I tried again. This time, I get
(16) "We are sorry we are unable to show you what your calling plan and add ons are. You may still change them on line - simply click the Change your Calling Plan link. Or contact a customer advisor on 0800 800 150 from 8am to 10 pm Monday to Saturday." I clicked 'Change your Calling Plan'.
The next screen showed a radio control against my Account number and phone number and another to allow me to enter an alternative number and my postcode. I clicked the control against my existing details and ticked a check box to confirm me as the account holder. A screen told me that my 'phone line was being checked. The next screen was a repeat of the message about already having a package deal.
I called 0800 800 150. I had a lot of trouble working out an appropriate key to press in response to the automated message and I got told
(17) "We do not have an order for you", but I got some more options. Remember that it says on the internet that I can call from 8am to 10pm. Ut was only 9:15.
(18) After going through all the rigmarole, I was told that Advisors are available 8am to 9pm.
(An e-mail to my BT.com preferred address told me I could now look at my bill online. I followed the link. The web page had no bill on it and none of its four links got me access.)
I called 0800 800 150 again.
(19) The advisor did not know anything about the internet - I should contact BT Shop on 0800 917 0510 where someone would talk me through it. Unfortunately, they were now closed for the weekend.
(20) He continually pushed for me to do my Add-ons over the 'phone - yet he had obviously not listened to what I had said since he wanted to fix the wrong things for me.
I received a letter confirming signing up for online billing.
An e-mail on Btinternet.com thanked me for signing up to BT.com.
(21) I was to click a link in it to finish the procedure. I did this.
Immediately I was set up for On-line Billing only. No advance warning. No confirmation screen. It seems incredibly easy to update my details over the internet to what BT want them to be, but, once again, it was impossible for me to get in and update them to what I wanted.
(22) Logging out I got "We are sorry, but there has been a problem/ Your order can not be fulfilled".
(23) The letter mentioned screen option "Profile". There was one called "Your Profile". I had not tried this before. It sent me off to a screen about BT OneID. A red herring.
(24) I called BT Shop. Internet was nothing to do with them.
I called 0800 800 150 again. The Advisor said she would also have recommended BT Shop.
I called 0800 800 150 again. A transfer, I forget where. No sooner had I got through than I was cut off by a dialling tone.
Dialled 100. After a strange procedure, I was through to an Accounts Advisor.
After another little adventure, he put me through to what I thought he said was the Accounts Department.
(25) The lady said that Call Centres know nothing about the internet, and that I will never be able to use it to access my details since I will only be able to speak to Call Centres. She said she was in the Cancellation Department.
(26) This probably meant that the previous Advisor had thought that my only hope was to cancel my entire service and get a new one.
She transfered me to Billing.
(27) S... checked my details and said that I did not have Paperless Billing set up(!), nor Direct Debit. I think also redit/Debit Card details that I had seen on one of the internet pages. She assured me that if I put these in I would be able to amend my Add-ons (I could change/delete these afterwards if I wanted).
Setting up the Direct Debit was complicated by one screen saying that I could change to a Regular Payment or Direct Debit, and the next only mentioning Regular Payment: in trepidation I opted for the Regular Payment, and the screen after that allowed me to set up the Direct Debit.
Having set up all the options suggested, I waited to be able to change my details. And waited.
It was at this point that I searched the internet for "We have noticed you already have one of our great package deals." It came up with BT Community Forum, and that the visitors all say how helpful the Moderator is. Here goes.

Hi Jim-in-Hemel,
Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of the problems you're having with your order.
If you could send in your forum username and BT account details to the email address registered against my profile I'll see what we can do to help.
Thanks,
Stephanie
Stephanie
BTCare Community Manager
If you like a post, or want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post. If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

Noisy power supply when running of UPS?... follow up post.

Ned/The hatter your input here would be most appreciated along with anyone else using a UPS with your mac pro. Please read on...
Having just concluded a rather detailed any lengthy post over in the power mac g5 forum with regards to loud buzzing noise from the power supply running of battery backup.
I recemmend reviewing the link below for the full and i think interesting read...
Linked here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=665537&tstart=0
To sum it up it concluded that my model of UPS (Belkin) produces a simulated sine wave. I am unsure of technicals here, but this then makes the power supply in powermac G5's make a nasty electrical noise as the unit works to sort it out. What is ideal is a pure sine wave i understand.
The reason for my post was that i was concerned the noise was a sign of harm being done to my mac. No one has said either way yet that this noise is either just a nuisance and it something thats got to be lived or that its actually harming my machine.
Anyhow it turns out that the RS series from APC also makes the G5 powermac make a noise. And i am aware that Ned along with some others use the APC RS series with there mac pro's. What i am looking to find out is... Do you have a noise from your power supplys when running on battery backup with your new shiney mac pro's?
The APC smart ups series however does not make the powermac G5 make a noise this has been confirmed by several users. I guess this is because these models produce pure wave sine.
As you can see this has all got very complicated and over my head.
The reason for me coming into this forum and asking about noisy power supplys when using certain UPS is because shortly i will be switching to a Mac pro. And if the power supplys in these are different and dont make a noise when running under battery with certain APC Rs's and the new Dual form belkin units then i wont return my current belkin model in exchange for a APC smart ups. I will just live it for a short time whilst i own my G5 and just hope it wont do any damage if and when we have a power outage.
Thank you to anyone that can guide or assist me with this dilemma. Cheers Pob

Pobster,
Switching power supplies (such as those used in computers) do not require a "pure" analog sine wave input; they are more than capable of running on PWM/stepped sine wave input. The noise from the power supply when running on power from a PWM output UPS does not indicate that damage is being done to your machine; it's a harmless side effect.
Some equipment will be damaged if powered via PWM input; items with compressors (refrigerators, air conditioners) definitely fall into this category, as well as some medical equipment and telecom equipment.
I live in an area with notoriously dirty power; a UPS is critical in my case (I'd argue that it is critical in any case, however). I've ran my equipment on UPSs for many years, and the price has dropped significantly. I've got one APC SmartUPS with pure sine wave output which was purchased for me by a client, but most of my equipment is running on UPS with PWM output. It's not uncommon for me to have 20-30 power events in a given day - most of them transient voltage drops or spikes; I've still got an old Sun Sparc 10 file server that's still chugging along.
A couple of interesting articles for your perusal:
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051009043816537
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
A quick google will turn up lots more information on the topic. APC used to have a white paper on their site which talked about this very topic.
Most manufacturers provide connected equipment insurance - tripp lite, for example, provides $250,000(US) coverage. I've never known anyone who actually needed to use this coverage - I certainly haven't .
In brief: A UPS with PWM output will not harm your computer; switching power supplies are more than capable of handling this. If the noise bothers you, look for a UPS with "pure sine wave" output - you will pay more for this feature; it's an aesthetic choice in this case.

Computer really noisy (fan I think?). Resetting PRAM and SMC does not work.

Hi,
so basically, as the title says, my computer is making a really loud noise as soon as I turn it on, I am presuming it is the fan.
Over a month ago, my computer started to constantly crash, and about two weeks ago I took it to a Genius Bar for a diagnosis. The problem was a hard drive failure, so I had it replaced and yesterday I brought it back home.
However, after the fix, the computer now runs fine, but there is a really loud noise from the computer.
I have tried resetting the PRAM and SMC like some other threads have suggested, and none of them have worked. I have tried restarting, shutting down the computer and everything suggested.
The computer has never made this noise in this manner before.
Before the fix, the only time it would be noisy like this is when I wake it from sleep, just left it there (on screen requiring username and password) and it sleeps again, and if I wake it from sleep, then it would be loud like this, but that is solved by just simply sleeping the computer again and waking it, and it will be all quiet again.
However, now, it makes this loud noise as soon as I turn the computer on, and as long as the computer is not shut down or asleep, it will make this noise.
Before the fix, my OS was 10.4.11, but the Genius Bar had installed 10.5.8 on this hard drive.
Is this a software problem or a hardware one?
Anyone got any suggestions or ideas how to fix this?
I have called the Apple store I visited for this fix already, they push me over to AppleCare and AppleCare pushes me back to Apple store and they tell me they cannot provide technical support over the phone and would need me to take the computer back to the Genius Bar.
I am just not happy about this. I live almost an hour away from the closest store and I have university to attend to as well.
So I am hoping this problem can be resolved without having to go back to the Genius Bar, although all methods I have read so far do not help.
Thanks,
From Lelouch

Hi, well, the thing is, I am just worried that, while making other repairs, they might have damaged something unintentionally and probably do not know about it, which would not be documented.
My initial problem of a loud fan, after a hard drive replacement, was fixed, so I do not hear it anymore, but this wind-like noise is different. With the iMacs, I presume the fans are towards the top, which was where the loud fan noise came from, however, this wind-like noise seems to come from the bottom of the computer screen are, centre and right side (in the direction I face it), but not the left side.
I describe it as wind-like, but it sounds a bit like when the computer is on heavy demand and the computer loads, yet different as it is quieter and slightly different in pattern, and unlike the usual heavy demand noise which comes from the top, it comes from the bottom.
I actually installed a temperature widget after my last repair, just in case my fan was just simply tuned off and would not come on at all for the sake of fixing the loud noise it was making.
The temperatures read as follows:
HD: 31
CPU: 27
Ambient: 17
GPU: 36
GPU Diode: 46
GPU Heatsink: 36
HD Bay: 33
Optical Drive: 30
To my knowledge, these should be fine temperatures?
But the noise persists regardless. The noise can instantly be heard (providing that it is quiet enough) as soon as the computer starts up.
Thanks,
From Lelouch

Very noisy Macbook--what should I do?

I bought my MacBook (2.2 GHz, 1GB RAM) in mid-december 2007, so it's still under warranty.
It was all nice and silent at first, but over the last few days, it has gotten really noisy, and it isn't that sound like a jet engine which I know is just the fan working a little faster and nothing to worry about. This one is a sort of steady buzzing sound, which doesn't seem to be related to how much or how little I'm making it do--not hugely loud, but definitely noticeable, enough to get distracting. Sometimes it can be quieter, but it's completely random. It's a bit like the buzz that comes from those fluorescent lights in schools and stores and such.
I have tried taking it to both the Apple reseller/apple service center I got it from (where I live you can't get apple stuff directly from the Apple representative, you have to visit a reseller, so I used the one the apple rep recommended), and to the 'Apple demo Center' which is basically the nearest you get here to the Apple Stores in the US and elsewhere: they show you the stuff and help with troubleshooting, but don't sell or repair.
Embarrassingly enough, the MacBook behaved on both occasions, with the buzz being super-low to non-existent, so even though I could describe the noise, they couldn't hear it so they told me its likely nothing to worry about. but I'm still worried, because it is still doing this. So now I don't know what I should do: should I make an appointment with the repair people and have them check it over, bearing in mind I will probably not be able to speak to them directly, but will have to leave a description of the problem, which will be taken down by the person at the reception and then transmitted to the repair guy, thus increasing the possibility for overall confusion, should I go there and insist on showing the repair guy myself so I at least know he heard what I had to say (sorta cut out the middleman), should I go back to the Apple Demo Center which is at least somewhat easier to get to and ask them to look at it more carefully? Should I just put up and shut up?
Any input from experienced Mac folks out there would be great. at this stage, all I can think of is the time not four months ago when I had to go through all these dilemmas and decisions regarding my Windows laptop, when I was made to go back and forth to the repair place mainly because the customers weren't allowed to interact with the lab folks, and the receptionists kept missing stuff. That experience was one of the main things that made me take the plunge and get a Mac this time, and I gotta admit I am rather near despair at the mere thought of having to go through this again *rueful smile*.
And yes, if you think I am trying to get you to feel sorry for me...I am But I am feeling pretty low--I was just getting comfortable enough on this machine to start doing interesting things on it, and now this!

mili2384 wrote:
I bought my MacBook (2.2 GHz, 1GB RAM) in mid-december 2007, so it's still under warranty.
It was all nice and silent at first, but over the last few days, it has gotten really noisy, and it isn't that sound like a jet engine which I know is just the fan working a little faster and nothing to worry about. This one is a sort of steady buzzing sound, which doesn't seem to be related to how much or how little I'm making it do--not hugely loud, but definitely noticeable, enough to get distracting. Sometimes it can be quieter, but it's completely random. It's a bit like the buzz that comes from those fluorescent lights in schools and stores and such.
I have tried taking it to both the Apple reseller/apple service center I got it from (where I live you can't get apple stuff directly from the Apple representative, you have to visit a reseller, so I used the one the apple rep recommended), and to the 'Apple demo Center' which is basically the nearest you get here to the Apple Stores in the US and elsewhere: they show you the stuff and help with troubleshooting, but don't sell or repair.
Embarrassingly enough, the MacBook behaved on both occasions, with the buzz being super-low to non-existent, so even though I could describe the noise, they couldn't hear it so they told me its likely nothing to worry about. but I'm still worried, because it is still doing this. So now I don't know what I should do: should I make an appointment with the repair people and have them check it over, bearing in mind I will probably not be able to speak to them directly, but will have to leave a description of the problem, which will be taken down by the person at the reception and then transmitted to the repair guy, thus increasing the possibility for overall confusion, should I go there and insist on showing the repair guy myself so I at least know he heard what I had to say (sorta cut out the middleman), should I go back to the Apple Demo Center which is at least somewhat easier to get to and ask them to look at it more carefully? Should I just put up and shut up?
Any input from experienced Mac folks out there would be great. at this stage, all I can think of is the time not four months ago when I had to go through all these dilemmas and decisions regarding my Windows laptop, when I was made to go back and forth to the repair place mainly because the customers weren't allowed to interact with the lab folks, and the receptionists kept missing stuff. That experience was one of the main things that made me take the plunge and get a Mac this time, and I gotta admit I am rather near despair at the mere thought of having to go through this again *rueful smile*.
And yes, if you think I am trying to get you to feel sorry for me...I am But I am feeling pretty low--I was just getting comfortable enough on this machine to start doing interesting things on it, and now this!
Does this occur when you plug your computer to the MagSafe? If so, it's a known thing, the MagSafe makes a buzz noise.

Why is the Raw processing so noisy and lousy in Aperture 3.3 vs LR4

I have been using LR4 to process my photos due to its image quality and its functions .
However I have always liked aperture for its file managmenet. when the 3.3 is out I thought
this could be me the game changer, ( I am shooting with 5D3)
However over the weekend I have found out that doing a side by side comparision the Aperture's Raw (CR2) processing
is simply not acceptable. it is lack of sharpenss and high noise is nothing but a joke if you compare to the LR4.
I hope it is some setting that I am doing wrong so I went to the apple store, and ther" Creative" guys was not able to solve
the issues as well, so now I am back to square one. I have to use LR4 to process my photos and APERTURE to store them...
Any one has better ideas?
The difference was to me day & night, it is not subtle ,,,
I hope someone can help me with my aperture issue so I can go back to using just one system.

What ISO are you shooting with?
Lightroom's noise reduction is better than Aperture's on noisy images right now. Lightroom's controls can easily knock down luminance and chroma noise, while Aperture's tools are fairly limited. You can use 3rd party plugins (Nik Dfine, Noise Ninja, etc.) that will do a good job but that renders a TIFF file which I'm not overly fond of for just this purpose.
But, still, the 5D Mark III has awfully good noise performance. Are you shooting at ISO 12800 or higher all the time? Is the noise frequently visible in all of your shots when you're not pixel peeping?
I ask because, while Lightroom is certainly better w.r.t. noise reduction than Aperture at the moment, I don't have all that many of my shots that really, really need noise reduction.

Intermittent noisy line problem

Hi. Just about tearing my hair out over a line problem which has been giving trouble on & off for over 6 months. The line becomes very noisy from time to time, depending on weather it seems. We have had similar problems ever since moving here 13 years ago - the line runs overhead through woodland for about 4km to the exchange - and each time it is a corroded wire due to water penetration somewhere along the route.
This time the engineer cannot locate the fault. He agreed there was noise but the equipment he had could not locate where it was. He advised calling another engineer when it was bad and hopefully he would be able to locate it. However, I have just noticed that BT has charged me £127 for the visit, even though there was no suggestion that the fault lay with the internal wiring or equipment - heck, I even gave the guy a cuppa tea!
Any advice on (a) getting the charge reversed and (b) getting the fault sorted. Sometimes the line is so bad I have to resort to mobile, and the broadband speed can drop to a few hundred kbps. Grrrrrr.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Try contacting the board mods
At [email protected] with a link to this post and your bt account no and phone no they will reply within a few days and are great at sorting these sort of problems
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Noisy CD/DVD drive

I have a 2009 MacPro, running the latest system etc.
For quite some time my CD/DVD drive is really noisy when reading discs.
I called Apple Support, but they wouldn't send me a new drive, since it still reads.
I'm some 90 miles and a ferry ride from the closest Apple store, so taking it in is a huge hassle and lots of money.
Although I've had ongoing Bluetooth issues with the machine (over a year) and maybe I'll have to bite it and take the thing in.
They have sent techs out numorous time to try and solve the Bluetooth, it still isn't right. (it has to be turned 90 degrees to work, so the mouse is in direct 'line of sight' to the rear of the machine).
Anyway, has anyone else had really noisy drives on these and how did you solve it?
Mark

We were just talking about that issue, here:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15401251#15401251

My Noisy 24" HD

Well..it's almost 2 weeks since I got my new 24' Imac. It's beautiful..no dead pixels and the fans are silent. The issue is the noisy Seagate HD. This is my second Intel Mac in less than a year, so I have some basis of comparison when it comes to noise levels. My 1st Intel 20" Mac had a WD HD that was almost silent. This one has a very discernable "grinding" noise when searching for data or writing. I've done my research on the Seagate HD's..mine is st3250824as Barracuda..and I know that the noise doesn't indicate a HD failure..just a process that occurs with certain SG HD's. Some are probably very quiet ( as the SG website boasts ) but most reviews indicate a majority of people complaining about the noise. If this was my first IMac and crossing over from say.. a Dell or something..I would't even notice. But I know how silent IMac's can be. My question is..have other new owners experienced this with this HD model..and do you think I have a shot at returning it and getting another "quieter" Mac ...or is this just the sad luck of the draw. Who knows..the next one could be worse! I will confess though, that this has slightly tarnished my otherwise perfectly shiny Apple experience..

Well..not exactly true...when I first ordered this IMac with the wireless Mouse and Keyboard, they failed to send the Keyboard with the mouse. I contacted Apple and after some initial confusion ( I got redirected to Europe where some poor English lass struggled with my request..in the most polite English manner possible..LOL) they straigtened it out immediately. The contact person couldn't have been more helpful. They immediately FedExed me my keyboard and it arrived from Cali within the week. I'm really not expecting too much hassle over this issue once I contact them, after all, the unit is less than a month old, but I will update to inform the cognosenti what kind of responce I get. That's what these forums are for...I just hope Ghaz (Lucas ) reads this so his Imac can be replaced too....Bern

Good recording solution over IP

I just put a new IP camera up that has sound capabilities but the issue I"m having with it is the area I put it up at is way too noisy and the sound gets jumbled and worthless. I need a way to drop a mic down the tiles near the camera that would hopefully run over IP and just have an application on the server hosting the camera software.
I -could- run a independent cable to the speakers in the viewing room (I don't necessarily need recording capabilities, this is just a monitor) if I have to, I just need the ability to run ~75 feet of cable and I have ethernet already in place.
Any suggestions on a solution?

Hi guys,I am about to order a bunch of hardware for my new vSphere home lab, my 16GB Macbook Pro is not enough anymore.The problem is I haven't been building PCs for ages so I am concerned I might miss something (e.g. fan, cable, tools?) or some of the components could be incompatible.So I would really appreciate your advice/help on the following shopping list (the prices are in AUD)I will have 2 ESXi hosts with SSD drives for vFlash Read Cache and 4x 1TB drives in RAID10 as iSCSI storage. Each host will have 16GB of RAM for now, will expand to 32GB later.I was thinking about 8core Avaton, but it doesn't have VT-d and is not significantly cheaper than E3, at least here in Australia.Also I thought about using Avaton as white box for the storage, but again it will cost me pretty much the same I would pay for Synology DS415+.Advice on the...

G5 Dual 1.8Ghz -randomly very NOISY & FAST fan!

Hi I couldn't find a post for this elsewhere!
1 or 2 times a week my G5 dual 1.8Ghz fan will begin to speed up and become incredibly fast and noisy, when this happens it doesn't slow back down, it keeps going!
Once this begins I am often unable to shutdown or restart the computer and I have to resort to pressing the power button.
On restarting the fan is normal again, but it always happens again at some point.
This happens while the computer is 'awake', but might have happened from sleep once or twice (I can't remember).
Many thanks for your help,
Colin
G5 dual 1.8Ghz Mac OS X (10.3.9) 2gb RAM

Hello Colin and welcome to the Apple forums.
1 or 2 times a week my G5 dual 1.8Ghz fan will begin to speed up and become incredibly fast and noisy, when this happens it doesn't slow back down, it keeps going!
Once this begins I am often unable to shutdown or restart the computer and I have to resort to pressing the power button.
This is what we call a "Kernal Panic" and basically the OS stops responding, also to hardware which slows down the fans from the default "turbo" mode your experiencing.
What could be causing this requires a careful process of elimination.
Disconnecting all other external hardware except a wired mouse, keyboard and one monitor is the first step.
Next is to backup all data, c boot from the G5 Tiger (not upgrade over Panther disk!) and Disk Utility Erase w/Zero option your boot drive. Reinstall Tiger fresh and immediatly Software update until clear. Install only vital apps from original sources and cd's (avoid those that alter your sytem/ use a admin password to install), files and data from backup. Update your drives driver software from the makers sites for Tiger.
If these two methods don't resolve the problem, then you should try installing a new boot drive (Zero it first) and repeating the step above to eliminate a bad boot drive.
Once these three steps are done and you still have problems, it could be a RAM or defective video card or other major hardware problem.

EVB3 overly noisy?

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