Export settings for high quality R3D footage

Greetings Adobe Community.
I've been working on a Project using 5K R3D footage directly into Adobe Premiere Pro. Now it's time to export and I'd like to know what would the output settings need to be in order for the footage not to loose quality and have a relatively compact size at the same time.
I am working on a 5 minute short. I exported a 35 second scene to a Quicktime ProRes4444 codec. Beautiul quality, but the file was a little over 1Gb. Should I export QuickTime or Mpeg?
I know ProRes 4444 will give me huge files... should I go 422?
Thanks in advance

I wouldn't throw away valuable chroma info going to 422 if you have 5K footage.
I'd find a AVC-Intra or other codec that is 444.
MPEG2 doesn't support 444
h.264 does but I'm not aware of any Premiere plugin encoder that does 444.
I think you're better off staying with the ProRes444. 1Gig isn't that big since 1Tb is less than $100 these days. Heck, 1Gig fits easy onto a usb thumb drive - so shipping it to someone is still dirt cheap.
for 5 minutes that's 10x more (5min = approx 10 x 35seconds) so you're still only looking at 10Gbytes total size.
If storage is important stay with an 444 format with some other non-ProRes/DNxHD format like h.264 (assuming you can find a 444 solution).

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Message was edited by: Ian R. Brown

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Under "Sequence" and in "Settings" and in the tab "Render Control" I have: Frame Rate: 100% Resolution: 100%.
If that is what you were referring to... but under the tab which is called RT and is located left of the timeline and left of the timecode. There I have checked : Safe RT, (Playback Video Quality) Dynamic, (Playback Frame Rate) High.
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Was mostly trying to find out with the export but it might have something to do with this.
Thanks

Best image EXPORT settings for best quality

What should i have my export settings at when exporting to a jump drive to give to clients for web and printing use???
When i see my images uploaded on Facebook for example, the qulity looks poor which worries me that when printing the quality will be poor as well. Am i missing something in the setting for exporting? What is the proper way to export for the best quality image? HELP!
My settings now under Aperture>Presets>Image Export:
JPG Original size
300 dpi

t_hall10 wrote:
The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
No, not for one size fits all.
I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
t_hall10 wrote:
Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
Maybe, it's your choice.
Let's go through the settings.
The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
To understand the printing issue, try this exercise:
If you have a printer installed on your Mac, it probably also installed some printer profiles. In Aperture, look at one of your nicer vibrant images. From the view menu turn on 'Onscreen Proofing' and then from the 'Proofing Profile' sub menu, select one of your printer profiles and look at how the onscreen image changes. Repeat with each of the printing profiles and see how the image changes each time.
This is only a fraction of the colour shifts that will be occuring after you give your file to someone and they print it on their own uncalibrated system with their uncalibrated printer.
Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
But if you are just giving a file to someone, you lose all control of how they will print it. Even experienced photographers and computer users can struggle to make the prints match close to what they look like on screen.
Most often photos will appear too dark, or the colours look wrong, or it lacks sharpness. There are some settings on the export presets for gamma and blackpoint compensation. Gamma will brighten the image for when it's printing too dark, and blackpoint will try to stop the shadows turning black (within the chosen colour space). But as you don't know in advance whether the images are going to print too dark, or the shadows are turning black, you can't really set these for a one-size fits all scenario.
So there are not many settings to help you here.
You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
You also need to decide what size (resolution) files to give them for printing and whether you are happy giving away your full size images.
These choices will lead you to a number of a different files sizes as 'your product', all should be in sRGB colour space, and all with quality 10 or 11. For any client's who know how to make use of a wider clour space like Adobe RGB for printing, they will probably ask you up front to supply the print versions as such.
Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
This is because sharpeing is best applied to images that have been resized to their intended output size and should be sharpened in accordance with how they will be viewed. Images displayed on computer screen generally need less sharpening than those that will be printed. Depening on the printer, the images may need some oversharpening in the file, in order to appear crisp and sharp in the print. As you won't be controlling the printing process you should probably avoid oversharpening. The bottom line is, if people are taking on the task of their own printing, they'll need to figure out what they are doing to get good results, or use a commercial printer.
Andy

What is the best format to publish/export in for high quality??

Hii everyone
I designed a brochure in illustrator and every time I publish it for some reason quality is lost.. the image isn't so sharp and clear anymore. Can anyone help??

no name,
To elaborate, File>Save As PDF, or File>Print choosing PDF/Acrobat Distiller as printer, will normally be the safest way to get everything to print in the right way regardless of final printer. You may set the options for desired quality/compatibility level (high is mostly good). If you have raster images, you may File>Place them as links.
If relevant for the artwork, and if you are only/mainly printing with a non Postscript printer, you may consider using File>Document Color Mode>RGB Color from the start to avoid repeated colour conversions, still staying within the CMYK gamut if the printer only prints CMYK (you can see the Out Of Gamut warning in the Color palette/panel).
Edit: Crossposting.
For Worst, you will probably need something like a File>Export using JPEG, TIFF, Bitmap, or PNG, using RGB Color Mode and setting the resolution high enough.

Export settings for high res playback.

Good afternoon. This is my first post.
I am editing a video that i shot with a canon 60d. files are .mov and the sequence is two hour long.
I am using a pc with i5-3570k, 8gb ram, nvidia gtx 660 2 gb and 1tb 7200 rpm hdd. editing on premier 7.0
I would appreciate any advice on how to export it with maximum quality. And please provide any necessary equipement needed to playback the video.
As of now, I will reproduce the video on an event a week of now, there I will be assigned a tv.
I would like to play the video at maximum resolution. Lets assume the tv is 50" full hd.
Should I play back from an external usb hdd? or from the computer plugged via hdmi, or from a usb flash storage media?
Which codec should I use, I figure png lossless would produce such a large file that the tv/my pc would have trouble playing it.
I noticed that h.264 produces a larger file that mpeg 2.
Which codec should i use? should I download codecs from a third party? please help.
Question number 2: what equipement is needed to reproduce the video, a proyector? or a tv? a blueray player or reproduce from usb? What if I wanted to reproduce the video on a 80" screen? what would i need? is a proyector higher quality than a tv?
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You will be fine with an H264 1080 Export
Keep the Bit Rate High.
Is a proyector higher quality than a tv?
Can be . Depends on the rez of the Projector. ( Think digital Cinema projectors)

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I'm using Quicktime Pro 7.6.4
I'm trying to create a short time-lapse video from stills from a DSLR.
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Image size does matter as QuickTime can make "movies" from your image sequence files that would be too large to fit your display.
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Iphone won't edit http://forums.adobe.com/thread/881246
-and http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1011411?tstart=0
-and a fix http://forums.adobe.com/thread/934466
GoPro http://forums.adobe.com/message/4486784
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Importing Video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1065281
Saving & Sharing http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1051093
Sharing for Computer http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1058237
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I've used iMovie before, but now I'm using the new iMovie HD.
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I've been searching online, on youtube, looking for the correct settings but they never seemed to work.
Hopefully someone here knows the correct settings so that the video isn't extremely blurry when uploaded onto youtube?

You might want to try the forum for iMovie specifically. You're in the forum for Final Cut. You may get an answer here but you'll probably get it faster going to the right forum. I'm just saying. I haven't used iMovie since 2000 and I'm sure it's pretty different now.

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What am I missing? TIA!

Compression quality really depends on the type of video that you are trying to compress. If the video is full of motion and noise, it will be very hard to reduce the file size through compression without massive loss. Compression is a trade-off. If you reduce the fame size to 480p, you may increase the quality of the video while reducing the file size versus trying to do the same thing at 720p.

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Video Encoder
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Found it!
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I couldn't find a discussion room for FCP 7 so I figured if anybody is proficiant with FCP X, they could help me.
Hello,
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Message was edited by: prepstein

Try here
https://discussions.apple.com/community/professional_applications/final_cut_stud io

Export settings for high quality R3D footage

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