Extended white balance range

I made this request back during beta 3, I think. I shoot an IR-converted dSLR, and would love it if Lightroom's white balance range didn't stop at 2000k. As it is, I have to make radical adjustments to other settings to make images look "correct" in color. Extending the WB range would help considerably.
I would also love it if LR could be made to recognize Canon's "color styles" settings.

Actually this has been requsted a few times previously. So you are not alone.
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.8 & Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/

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Aperture 3 White Balance range

I recently took a handful of photos under some garishly unbalanced street lights. I took a greycard shot and used custom white balance in my Canon camera, which caused the photos to come out surprisingly well but not perfect.
When I loaded the photos up in Aperture, I thought that two or three pictures could use some additional tweaking. By making any white balance adjustment at all in the application, it reset the white balance to 2000K -- which is actually above the temperature of the lights.
I can't seem to manually set the white balance to any lower value, and the only way I can get rid of a color cast is to disable any White Balance adjustment (thus using the setting from the RAW file).
Is there any way to extend the range of Aperture's white balance adjustments? Is this the sort of thing that ought to work its way into a feature request?
(Just for conversation's sake, the location in question was the Campbell Community Center's parking lot during a San Jose Bike Party. Anyone from the Aperture team is welcome to take some snapshots there if they doubt the necessity of a wider white balance range...)

Have you tried tweaking it with the curves adjustment? Sometimes you correct colour casts a bit more precisely with a simple "auto split" curves adjustment, or by tweaking the curves themselves manually.
Have a look in the manual starting at p536 and also check out p549 specifically.

Mark III extreme manual white balance.

I recently photographed a concert which had nothing but purple lighting. I set my Canon 5D MkIII to a manual white balance. To my surprise, the camera was able to properly balance the color and my whites appeared white. I loaded the images into lightroom and the preview showed a properly balanced photo. As soon as the photo was finished loading, the color snapped to what would look like an auto white balance. (my whites were now purple like the lights). In any other application, the white balance is spot on. In light room, the color is extremely purple.
Import settings are set at the default, no actions are taken upon import. (develop settings are set to "none")
here is a one minute video of exactly what is happening to me:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151406642951705&comment_id=270254886&offset=0&total _comments=50&notif_t=video_comment
What I believe is happening (theory based on the maxed out sliders) is that the camera's white balance range has exceeded the capabilities of lightrooms white balance rang
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Joe93452444,
Are you shooting JPG or Raw?
Raw images don't have a WB setting in the Raw data. When shooting Raw the WB setting that you select in the camera is only a metadata tag.
This WB tag is initially read by Lr but Lr then evaluates the image and applies its own WB setting. Thus the Wb in Lr can be different than what you see in camera.
You can change the WB in Lr in three ways:
a) by selecting a different camera profile (in Develop Module / Camera Calibration / Profile (when you change the profile the WB sliders in the Basic panel do n't change but the image data is interpreted differently);
b) by using the sliders in Develop Module / Camera Calibration - and using the option of "saving" the settings as a preset for similar shots;
c) by using the WB and Tint sliders in Develop Module / basic panel.

White balance for infrared images

Hello there,
I love making infrared photos with my digital camera (Canon dSRL).
When I take an IR shot, I usually set the custom white balance inside the camera, so that false colours appear correctly. If I open the CR2 RAW file using the software provided by Canon (Digital Photo Professional) the image appears correctly; on the contrary, if I use Adobe Camera Raw (which I prefer to) it seems that my custom white balance is not properly displayed.
So I'm wondering if this is an issue of CR or there is something to do that I don't know. Can you help me?

This tutorial by Sean MacCormick shows how you can edit the camera profile so that White Balance for IR images is brought within the adjustment range that Camera Raw and Lightroom http://lightroom-blog.com/2009/05/creating-ir-camera-profile.html

White balance

What is the best way to correct white balance shifts post production.
If shooting underwater, there is either a big jump to very blue, or to red.
Will I have to select different underwatercolour ranges and correct them each, or is there an easier way?
Is it best to use 3 way colour corrector, or other effects, or a combo?
I also have Adobe after effects 6.5, is there something in there recommended, as superior?

Underwater footage is fascinating stuff but it will not necessarily respond to conventional color correction. Unless properly lit, filtered or balanced the colors simply do not exist; there's no color data to correct.
The #1 advice form the kenstone.net articles: Shooting underwater successfully requires knowing what you're doing long before diving.
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/lighting_below_thewaves.html
The loss of color is deceiving. The human brain compensates for much of the color loss and even at depths below 30 feet, your eyes will still see some red. But a fact which we must understand is that the camera is really dumb. It has no brain, so therefore it will not compensate. To overcome this problem, artificial light sources must be used.< </div>
When working in water with a greenish tinge, as in the west coast of our continent from Seattle north to Vancouver Island, a magenta filter will produce good results. For blue caribbean waters, I always prefer my red color correction filter. < </div>
POST PRODUCTION FILTERS. As in topside video work, occasionally we misjudge the lighting conditions and must attempt a repair within Final Cut Pro. There are a few filters in the browser which I have discovered work well with underwater video footage. The Proc Amp filter can be used to put some vibrancy into an otherwise washed out shot. The RGB Balance filter is another which if used sparingly can save an otherwise interesting piece of footage from the cutting room floor.
But these filters are definitely no substitute for getting it right in the first place. The best angle of attack is to concentrate on the basic principals of lighting so that your footage can go untouched from the camera to the timeline.<
bogiesan

Premiere Elements 13 Eyedropper for white balance, gray, and black NOT WORKING. Help!

I'm using Premiere Elements 13.1 on an iMac, and trying to adjust the white balance on a clip with ZERO success. The main reason for this is that I cannot utilize the "eyedropper" selector; I know what should appear white, gray, and black, but cannot select those items.
In the Three-Way Color Corrector there are Eyedroppers to use to specify areas of known color range. I have tried without success to select ANY of the eyedroppers...
I have clicked on it - NOTHING
I have held the left mouse on it and attempted to drag it onto the frame - NOTHING
I have right-clicked it - NOTHING
The eyedroppers are not greyed out and they do respond when clicked. I have hit Reset button galore. I have restarted the program.
I have held my mouth funny - NOTHING :-)
When my cursor is hovering over the tool, it changes to an eyedropper. If I click, nothing happens when the cursor is moved - the cursor changes right back into its regular arrow shape. The cursor does nothing to the image if an item is clicked....there is no change to anything on the monitor.
I am a longtime Photoshop user but new to Premiere Elements. This dropper seems to work nothing like the PS ones. In fact, it doesn't work at all...so far.
Can someone please tell me what I need to do to simply select the eyedropper and take it onto the image and select the white (or gray or black)??? Before I go bananas (may be too late)? THANK YOU!

Still not working. I think the root cause of the problem is the mechanics of using the tool itself; I hope this screen shot shows up below ...
Here I have APPLIED EFFECTS open, and have selected Midtones (Greys) to be expanded so that the eyedropper and other details appear:
Now, just below where it has a box and "Impacted frame area in white" (which I know is a checkbox allowing the area effected to be seen), there is a little color box and an eyedropper.
What EXACTLY do I do to select (activate) the eyedropper and subsequently tell the program what I feel should be grey in the selected clip?
As mentioned before, I can click it and the cursor briefly changes to the same shape as the eyedropper. But as soon as I move the cursor a fraction, it changes back to an arrow (normal cursor) shape. Even then, going to the area I need to select in the image, and then clicking it, does exactly nothing to the appearance of the image shown -- even if the colors start way off. No correction at all. It is as if the tool does nothing. The color wheels below all this DO work however - it's just the eyedropper that doesn't do anything. This just cannot be Adobe's intention. I am convinced there must be some flaw in how I am selecting the tool itself. And the user guide - needless to say - is worthless in explaining the mechanics.
So very frustrating. This appears to be the only thing wrong with the program - nothing else seems amiss.
NOTE: To add insult to injury, this promised white/gray/black balance feature and the three-way-color corrector is the SOLE REASON I purchased the software. Funny.

Custom white balance from Canon 5D Mark 3 erased from RAW files when developed in Lightroom 4.2?

Hi Everybody!
Got a bit of a problem...I set custom white balance for a lot of my photos (I'm a nightclub photographer) as sometimes the colours are so saturated the image becomes unusable. Unfortunately in Lightroom 4 the photos import with the correct WB I have set but when I click on them to develop the settings are changed and the image looks completely awful. I try and adjust the image back to the way I have taken it but it never looks the same....why is Lighroom not recognising the WB settings I set within my 5D?
Any pointers?
Cheers!
Sarah

All Raw images can be expected to change appearance significantly after the initial display of the in-camera embedded JPG preview, has been replaced with a true LR-generated conversion preview.
This is because all in-camera image settings and processing options (except WB) are disregarded by Lightroom. Lightroom just works to its own processing default, and this is in your control to get as you want it.
Even the in-camera WB, is only used provided LR is set to "as-shot" WB at the top of the Basic panel. If LR's default gets changed to a fixed WB of some kind, then that is what every image will show initially thereafter.
Even with the right WB transferred and used, first LR renditions can still look very different than the camera rendition; two people picking up the same violin might make very different noises with it. One of the biggest effects for that, is when proprietary in-camera "dynamic range boost" (or however else named) functions have been used. These work by deliberate underexposure of the basic capture, and Adobe software tends not to then apply the right corrective for that.
Even without these special functions in play, it is still usual for Adobe factory default processing - combined with camera programmed metering - to produce images which appear a little on the dark side, but which nonetheless have good scope for brightening without losing highlight detail. An image that looks generally bright enough in this context, will usually turn out to have blown highlights. If the camera has any kind of a low-noise sensor, the shadows will tolerate brightening even better than the highlights will.
And if your customised LR default has applied some brightening and that turns out to be too much in a given case, it can simply be turned back down for that image with no harm done. Or you might prefer to under-correct with your default; up to you.

Aperture white balance default

I'm new to Aperture
The Aperture white balance default is 6826 (tint 13).
I set my camera wb to Flash.
How can I change the Aperture default WB to Flash?
In my meta data all my images have a wb=Flash. Should Aperture read the metadata to set the WB?
Tony

Hello Tony,
welcome to the Aperture Forum of the Apple Support Communities. Can you explain a little bit more, which default setting you are talking about?
At first I thought you were talking about the default setting for the White Balance adjustment in the adjustment panel of the Library inspector. But that one is set to a color temperature of 5000K (Horizon daylight), a suitable preset for landscape photography - at least, that setting is what I see in my Aperture version.
The number you quote "6826 K" is in the range of the color temperature of a LCD or CRT screen, suitable for the display of digital images on a screen. Where did you find that setting?
If you want to adjust any image to the setting the white balance your camera was set to, then you need to define a preset for the White Balance adjustment in the adjustment panel of the Library Inspector. Set this to the color temperature of your flashlight - it should be somewhere in the range of 5,500–6,000 K. Do you know the exact color temperature for the flash setting of your camera?
Regards
Léonie

How to view white balance data in iphoto '09

I would like to be able to see the white balance setting metadata for photos in iPhoto '09, but I'm not finding any way to do that.
The "Show Extended Photo Info" doesn't include white balance.
Thanks,
Tracy

Nines
Welcome to the Apple user to user assistance forums
Any chance you could tell us a bit more? re-read your request and see how you would answer it.
What did you do to lose all of your events?
What have you done since then to bet to the "starting point"?
What is the "starting point"?
Do you have a backup up from before you did what ever you did to lose the events?
You have to give us a lot more information if we are to help you
LN

White balance issues after ProKit Update 5.1

After the new ProKit 5.1 update I get a new reprocess block. When I reprocess the image the white balance gets messed up. The Tint sliders go to 50. The white balance presets are all off too. Is anyone else having issue?

This is frustrating me too. Some things I've discovered:
Reprocessing photos tagged with the 1.0 to 1.1 which required reprocessing caused most of the issues. The auto-converted photos would go from 5200K temp, -1 tint or similar to having a wierd tint. However, using a tint around 90 (off the range the tint slider can be adjusted to. Similarly, using the dropper to select a whitepoint results in these out of range tints. However, the tint looked OK, it's just out of the range you can slide it to.
I tried the deletion of the Raw decode plist and that didn't fix things.
Also of note, I have a selection of images with each of my camera's whitepoint settings (a Canon 30d as it happens). If I reprocess each, select the whitepoint brick to enable it and press reset, I get back the whitepoint which was interpretted from the RAW (and hence the cameras whitepoint setting). These also leap from say ~5200K daylight -1 tint (if I recall correctly) to having offscale tints. This suggests there's a new range at play for RAW 3?
Incredibly frustrating. If anyone has any reasonable fixes, I'd love to hear about them, or preferably could we have an update from Apple which resolves the issue.
I understand that reprocessing can cause small shifts, but my photos which have not been heavily adjusted look totally wrong when reprocessed. For now I will not be reprocessing anything until there's a fix.
Also of note, it looks like way back I locked my default raw processor to 1.0 or 1.1. That may have caused issues. I have since reset the camera defaults to the reset RAW processing defaults for 3. I'll try importing some stuff from camera tonight and see what it does.

Eye drop tool for white balance

It has been requested an eye drop tool to correct white balance issues in color correction for a long time. Is there any news on this? Will it be a new feature in upcoming updates?
If not... does anyone know a plugin that will do the same thing?
Short description:
I want to be able to select which colors are supposed to be white with an eye drop tool during color correction. This feature was available in earlier FCPs like 6 and 7. It saves tons of hours being able to auto adjust the whitebalance in post, rather than trying to match the correct color balance - dragging up and down these color circles, and then matching the color settings throughout the whole project.

The Color Corrector in FCPX is a misnomer. The color board is more about grading - not correcting.
If you can tell how the color is casting (or read the scopes) then the Color board is easy: line up the global control over the color and drag it downward (that will "subtract" the offending cast from the image.) Or use the shadows, midtones, and highlights controls individually for those ranges.
[But I find scopes difficult to use quickly, so:]
You can also use *any* of the effects, titles, or generators that have any color parameter selection (or gradient!) as an eyedropper in a pinch. Click on the swatch for the color parameter and from the pop up dialog (color picker), use the Magnifier (top left corner) and choose any pixel on the canvas (or anywhere else for that matter.) That will give you clear indication which primary elements are "too heavy" (red, green, blue -- or any two with greater value than the minimum) Using the HSB sliders mode (second icon and last on the dropdown) will give you the degree angle (which is what the color board uses) of the hue cast and the Saturation value will give you an indication of the "magnitude" of the cast. Move the appropriate control in the color board to the Hue degree and subtract the % shown by saturation -- and you're "white balanced" (I should say: neutral.) [PS, if you're not going to be using the effect, etc -- simply disable it by clicking on the blue rectangle -- you'll still be able to use the color picker -- and whatever the effect is won't interfere with your color edits.]
If you have Motion, you can build an "eyedropper" quickly by drawing a rectangle, setting the fill opacity to 0 and publishing its fill color -- it can be an effect, a title or most easily: a generator. Titles and generators are most easily dragged around the storyline and don't become "part of" a clip. If you don't have Motion, you can download one here: http://sight-creations.com/fxexchange/eyeDropperAssist.zip (a generator.)

Adjusting exposure and white balance in LR?

I'm fairly new to digital photography and want to start using LR for more than just tagging my images. I currently shoot with a 5DM3 at the highest .jpg quality settings.
1. Can I adjust white balance for .jpg files in LR? OR does it really need to be done with a RAW format file?
2. Can I adjust exposure compensation for .jpg files in LR? OR does it really need to be done with a RAW format file?
3. If I can fully adjust the white balance and exposure compensation in LR for a .jpg or RAW file, is there any real benefit to doing it in camera? Will you achieve the same quality level doing it in LR vs. in camera? Are there any downsides to doing it in LR vs. in camera?
Thanks!

southwestform wrote:
1. Can I adjust white balance for .jpg files in LR? OR does it really need to be done with a RAW format file?
Yes, you can adjust white balance on .jpg files. There will be two differences. For a raw file the adjustment scale will be along an absolute temperature scale so you can set, for example, an exact 6500K white balance. For a JPEG the adjustment scale is relative because the white balance is already baked into the file. The other difference is that with raw, you will be able to push white balance much further from the current setting before the image starts to fall apart.
southwestform wrote:
2. Can I adjust exposure compensation for .jpg files in LR? OR does it really need to be done with a RAW format file?
Similar answer. You can adjust exposure up and down for a JPEG, but you will find a much narrower range of adjustment before the image visibly degrades. It will be easier to darken the image than to lighten it. When you increase exposure on a JPEG, shadows you lightened will look much worse a lot faster than with a raw file.
southwestform wrote:
3. If I can fully adjust the white balance and exposure compensation in LR for a .jpg or RAW file, is there any real benefit to doing it in camera? Will you achieve the same quality level doing it in LR vs. in camera? Are there any downsides to doing it in LR vs. in camera?
The problem in any editor (not just Lightroom) is that your files, raw or JPEG, have been limited by the dynamic range of the sensor in the camera. You can't "fully" make adjustments if the camera can't "fully" record the scene in the first place. If you want to make a +4 EV adjustment to an image and you do it in camera, the image data is in the sweet spot of the sensor and it's going to look great. If you don't adjust in camera and you expect to make the +4 EV adjustment in an image editor, you are going to try to push a lot of shadow data up into the lighter tones. The shadow data is the lowest quality, so lightening it will reveal noise and banding. In addition, if your camera doesn't have enough dynamic range, the camera might not even record down far enough for you to pull off a +4 EV adjustment in software. The better sensor you have, the more likely you can make big adjustments and like the result.
Raw just gives you more room to make mistakes. It is always better to try and get it right in camera.

D3 + "Auto" White Balance in LR2 = +30 Magenta

I have been finding some problems with the "Auto" white balance setting in LR2...
Since I started shooting RAW with my D3 (while still shooting with my D70 in the same locations) LR2 likes to give me a +30 Magenta whenever I choose Auto no matter where or what I'm shooting.
I don't suffer the same adjustment shooting RAW on the D70 (interchanging the same lenses.)
Anybody else seeing this issue? I'm shooting Auto WB on the D3 almost all the time and I end up having to manually perform any WB tweaks in LR otherwise everything is too "pink."

While generally agreeing that a gray-card white-balance measurement is more accurate and eyedropping something that glows in UV light is a problem, in this particular case, if the dress does indeed look white to the eye, and the people that will be viewing and purchasing the pictures expect it to be white, then white-balancing on the dress can be ok.
In this particular instance the issue seems to be that there is mixed lighting between the sky and the trees so the particular part of the dress being eyedropped changes things, and the angle of the gray-card would make a difference, so the multiple angles of fabric in the dress may offer a wider range of "targets" where one is more accurate than the gray-card.
I wish LR would allow the Auto WB to be restricted to the cropped area of a photo, so you could crop it down to just the gray-card or in this case the front of the dress and have it guess more correctly.
The maximum area that can be sampled by the WB-dropper is too small and the area sampled for the Auto WB is too large for LR to be the most helpful in certain situations.
Being able to eyedropper a non-neutral area, such as the skin and compute the color-balance as compared to a library of skin tones, would also be very helpful.
Elements lets you color-balance a photo based on skin tones, and you can do this thing by hand in Photoshop Levels/Curves by referring to RGB values, but I wish LR would be helpful in this regard, as well.
I realize this is what the DNG Profile Converter and Colormunki are letting you do, but having to create a permanent profile and install it and use it are not the same as being able to create an image-specific profile and use it in place of WB across several images.
Why shouldn't I be able to have someone hold up a color-checker and have LR compute an image-specific color-balance based on that.
The other thing LR should allow is have an eyedropper help with determining the highlight and shadow tint hue/sat values.

White balance feature in Photoshop CS4?

Is there a white balance feature in Photoshop CS4 [like in Lightroom]?

WB is a bit of misnomer... what your fiddling with is temperature. And it's not always in balance or using white (what is white in higher dynamic range images anyway?).
To be honest I find the wb approach a bit cludgy in PS and far prefer to look at it in ACR if I can.
Curves in LAB has th best response for me to correct colour casts... the colour balance tool in RGB is really doesn't live up to its name...as per the photo filters that dont. As ACR shows, you cant just slap orange over an image and say its warmer.

White Balance seems to shift

Mark 111 changes white balance for no reason at all, on the same pic

I am not familiar with your particular camera, but if your camera has WB settings and/or shoots RAW:
I assume you are set to auto white balance? If you want a bit more consistency, pick a white balance that matches your location (shade, sun, cloudy, fluorescent, etc.).
Also shoot RAW instead of, or in addition to, JPEG. You have so much more ability to correct WB in RAW there's just no comparison.
Also shoot
Scott
Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Extended white balance range

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