Fair Deal for Option 1 Users

I cannot speak for other Option 1 subscribers but I am pretty fed up with other options getting increases in usage limits i.e 20Gb extra for Option 2 and a whopping 200Gb for Option 3 (even though I don't understand how "Unlimited" has a limit).
Come on BT WHY you are targeting us, for instance 1Gb over and now get charged £5 instead of the old £1 (not sure if this applies to other options as well) no increase for us in your big Gb hand out and I for one would like an explanation, which I cannot seem to get by calling you customer service Dept.
So come on BT explain yourself before I really do believe in Conspiracy Theories
Never mind the Light - I'm still looking for the TUNNEL!!

spacepilot wrote:
you are paying for a lamborghini diablo, and using it to take your mom shopping at the local Asda once a week... and the cost base to bt is high, so they get little or no profit on the account. as such they aretrying to coax you to take the next level of service.
And just like the last Diablo this thinking is back in 2001 - if everyone took out the unlimited option BT would be well in trouble!!
Never mind the Light - I'm still looking for the TUNNEL!!

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    I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
    Optimize your settings
    Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life.  For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
    Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
    Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
    Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals.  The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
    Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
    Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
    Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
    Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power.  Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
    Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas.  Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls.  To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
    Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life.  Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions.  Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
    Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life.  To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact.  Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
    Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
    Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
    Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
    Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
    Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
    Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
    So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
    A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
    Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
    http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
    Procedures
    davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
    Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
    1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
    2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
    3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
    4. Fully discharge battery  (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
    5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
    In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases.  It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple.  Good Luck!
    ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
    Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
    Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
    1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
    2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
    3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
    4. Fully discharge battery  (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
    5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
    6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
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    9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
    * I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
    ** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
    buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
    These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
    Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
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    rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
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    I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
    This is what I did:
    1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
    2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
    3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
    4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
    5. Add the iCloud account again.
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    1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
    2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
    3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
    4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
    So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
    I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
    This is the MacRumors discussion:
    http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
    And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
    Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
    As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
    1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
    Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
    2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
    3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
    Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
    4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
    If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ...  tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
    Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
    Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
    Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
    Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
    Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
    Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
    W. Raider tips (Sirii):
    Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
    1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
    2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
    Hope this is helpful!
    Comments
    jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
    I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
    tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
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    I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby.  I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event.  I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps.  More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
    With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks  that occur for the service on an os level not an app level.  This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking.  The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone.  No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed.  If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery.  I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message.  On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3  or 4 percent drop.  On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop.  Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain).  For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
    See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info.  I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

    Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable. 
    Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
    So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
    Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
    So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent.  If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
    http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
    The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
    Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
    Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
    Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
    Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
    Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
    I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
    Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

  • When I go to update my software using the app store download, it always asks for the previous user's ID, not mine.  Please help!

    When I go to update my software using the app store download, it always asks for the previous user's ID, not mine (my IT guy at school's-I am a faculty with admin priviledges).  I have signed in as me, have set the main preferences login user as me,and everywhere on the laptop I can use my apple ID except here.  It always shows me a greyed out ID of my IT.  How can I reset this to my ID? It doesn't give me an option to change the user ID, only a link to reset password.  I reset it, but it did not change the problem.  Can someone help me?

    It's not an ID problem, it's an ownership problem.
    When someone uses their personal Apple ID to buy and download content, the content is licensed to them and has their Apple ID engrained in it's DNA. It is an anti-piracy program. And when that personal Apple ID is used to setup a new Mac, it involves the Mac itself, the shipping OS and any pre-installed apps as well.
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  • "Open VI Reference" Option "Prompt user to find missing subVIs"

    I am using "Open VI Reference" to dynamically load a VI. For the "option" control of the "Open VI Reference" node, I pass "0x10" or "10" in hexadecimal, which supposedly "prompt user to find missing subVIs." Nevertheless, I don't get a prompt message dialog when I intentionally pass an invalid or missing VI path. Instead I just get an Error Code 7. What does this option "Prompt user..." suppose to do?

    Make sure you set the properties on the integer input into the “options” control to the “Open VI Reference” to be a Hexadecimal format (right-click on the “options” control input, select Format and Precision…, then select Hexadecimal). Now, if you re-run your VI and wire in a VI with a missing subVI, the Open VI Reference will appear with a dialog that will prompt you to browse to the missing subVI. This is exactly the same message LabVIEW displays when it attempts to open a VI and cannot find its subVIs.
    I’ve attached a simple example program to demonstrate. Enter the path to the “number extractor.vi” as the VI to open. You should see a dialog prompt appear asking for the “Search 1D Array – Complete.vi”.
    Hope this helps!
    Attachments:
    openVIRefExample.zip ‏20 KB

  • Questions on MCX Policies for Laptop/Mobile Users:

    Questions on MCX Policies for Laptop/Mobile Users:
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    Since most of my users are laptops, they are expressing 2 major concerns involving their laptops when they are off the LAN (i.e.; on the road at a cafe, working at home, staying at a hotel or when they have no network at all)
    1) When users are off our LAN, the Mac still tries to mount the network volumes in their OD/MCX login items when the user logs in (with cached mobile credentials). Can this be avoided? Windows PCs do not do this. If the PC laptop cant find an AD DC, they simply don't run the login scripts and thus dont try to mount/map network volumes. How can I make the Mac laptops only mount network volumes when they are on the LAN?
    2) Most Mac users have a Cisco VPN client, and use it regularly to connect to the company's LAN from home, hotels etc. Of course when they log into the network via VPN, their network volumes are not mounted automatically. Is their a way to re-run the MCX managed login items script once they connect to the VPN and mount (i.e.; "map") their network drives? Sure, users can simple use the "Connect To Server" option in the FInder (or perhaps try and use the god-awful Leopard Finder side bar discovery browser thingy which I hate - never mind), but I need a consistent automated way to mount volumes quickly and easily for my mobile users. There must be a way to run (or re-run) the login items part of my MCX policies.

    Ping!
    I'm looking for this functionality too. Anyone have a solution to either of these? One that came to mind is to wrap the login items in a script which detects if the LAN is available.

  • Draft Documents View is empty for a specific user

    Hi,
    For a specific user, when he goes on the Document Draft Reports, the Sales Document sub-form is empty. Meaning that when he ticks the "Sales Documents" option, the boxes to choose specific Sales Document does not exist (e.g. Sales Quotation, Sales Orders etc.). This happens no matter what are the other options (e.g Open Only or User Option).
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    Hi Gerasimos.......
    I'm sure this is a Bug in your system. If you have any of the adons then please Disconnect it and also try to create new Super User and give him license and then check with this new user for the same output.......
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  • Is there a way to have an AppleID for an end-user without credit card info attached to it?

    I am in charge of managing the Macs in our department. We have purchased a volume license for Mountain Lion (can't jump to Mavericks yet until we upgrade other software). I have a code to redeem, but the end-user is supposed to have an AppleID. I went ahead and started creating one for her, but it asks for credit card information, and corporate does not wish to have this information attached to an end-user's ID - they just want to supply it at the time of purchase for any future purchases (fear of identity theft and/or unauthorized purchases, I guess).
    Our Mountain Lion software is already purchased, so Apple shouldn't need the credit card info for us to be able to install it. I can't install Adobe's Creative Cloud software until she's at least up to Mountain Lion … I feel I am hitting a major roadblock here! Any suggestions? Is this a new requirement? My own AppleID (for work) that I've had for awhile has no credit card currently attached to it … must not have been required at the time.

    Try this on that Apple ID to get the None payment method option;
    This user, mountaingoatgirl, explains how to get a None option in your account details in the iTunes app on a Mac or PC. -
    https://discussions.apple.com/message/24907941
    Then in the future use Apple's suggested method to create Apple IDs that don't require a credit card.
    Creating a new Apple ID for an iTunes Store, App Store, iBookstore, and Mac App Store account without a credit card -
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2534

  • Creating more than one account for a single user

    I was wondering, if I creat more than one account for me (the only person that uses my powerbook) is that going overboard? I mean, lets say I am logged into the standard account and I want to learn more about the bash shell and using terminal which I am new to, if I **** something up will the whole system be toast or will only things in that account be messed up? Like could I then just log into my admin account and delete the other messed up one? Or no? My theory was that this was a way of keeping my comp safe from myself, being that I am new to macs and moreso that I am new to the unix side of things and want to start learning the command line without worrying about screwing up my whole system. I would just use the standard account for everyday use (like what I do now) or experiment with terminal, and when I need to download something or change some settings that requires me to be logged in as admin then I would log in and download what I need then log out and use it in the standard account...am I just wasting my time? Is what I am doing any "safer" than just having one admin account and thats it?
    Thanks for all the help! It feels good to be a part of the goodguys team =)
    Thanks again!

    Ghost,
    First, I don't subscribe to the "one should not use an admin account" philosophy. For someone who is the owner and main user of any given machine, I see the use of anything but an admin account a bit anal, totally unecessary, and needlessly complicating.
    On the other hand, I don't see the need for more than one admin account on any given machine. Yes, I see exceptions to this, and many people favor having a second admin account as a "backup," but I have never had more than one admin account on any of my machines, and have never encountered a situation where one would have helped.
    In short, I like the idea of having a "main" admin account that is used most of the time, and then having "secondary" accounts (all non-admin) for any additional users that might log in.
    Now, any limitations that apply to you as a GUI user of an account, admin or not, will apply to you at the command line as well. In other words, you can't get yourself into any more trouble at the command line than you can within the GUI. In fact, you might even be better protected at the command line than you are in the GUI. I say this because any action that would ordinarily "elevate" you above the standard capabilities of a non-admin user require the use of "sudo." Avoid the use of sudo, and you can avoid any problems.
    That doesn't mean that you wouldn't be able to do something stupid that might wreck an account that contains "all of your stuff," and on which you depend. It is not likely that you would damage your System, but it is entirely conceivable that you might, for example, accidently delete or overwrite your entire HOME folder. Oops!
    If you simply don't trust yourself with the command line, a second account might be a good place to experiment. Maybe create it as a non-admin account at first, with the option to change it to an admin account at a later time, when you want to learn how to use "sudo" to do more powerful things. By then, you will understand what not to do. Eventually, you will have the confidence to use the command line in your own account, which will have been an admin account all this while.
    Scott

  • Remote Desktop Service Manager - configure permissions for Remote Desktop Users to Send Message, Disconnect, Logoff

    Hello, dear colleagues.
    We are using Windows Server 2012 R2 as Remote Desktop Server. Also use Windows Server 2008 R2 with Remote Desktop Service Manager to control RDS user sessions (Send Message, Disconnect, Logoff, Query Info). 
    Send Message, Disconnect, Logoff options works only for users in Administrators group.
    I can't to configure permissions for Remote Desktop Users, specific user or AD group. 
    To set permissions I'm running RDS Host Configuration on Windows Server 2008 R2 and connect to Windows Server 2012 R2. Then double-click
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    Thanks.
    P.S. If move specific user from Remote Desktop Users group to Administrators group on
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    Hi,
    You can prevent administrators from changing the permissions for a connection by applying the
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    This Group Policy setting is located in Computer Configuration\Policies\Administrative Templates\Windows Components\Remote Desktop Services\Remote Desktop Session Host\Security
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    thread for more detail.
    Hope it helps!
    Thanks.
    Dharmesh Solanki
    Please remember to mark the replies as answers if they help and unmark them if they provide no help. If you have feedback for TechNet Support, contact [email protected]

  • UI elements not being displayed for a particular user

    Hi,
    I designed two i/p fields and text view for the same in a view. All are static UI elements and no visibility property is set.
    This view is displayed as a popup when i press the button in the main view.
    This is working fine for all the users in production except for one user.
    This particular user is able to see only one input field and the corresponding text view.The other i/p element is missed here.
    The whole component is displayed in a portal as a tab with other components in the adjacent tabs.
    Please help me out to resolve this issue.
    Is this problem is related to webdynpro abap? or
    Is this a portal issue?
    Regards,
    Bala.

    Hi balamurugan ,
    may be check the user setting for the User id .
    right click on the view click user setting . and check whether he hide that button .
    look at the pic.
    http://i46.tinypic.com/x3cyf9.jpg
    If any UI element is made invisible it will show the option invisible elements .
    you can restore it .
    http://i46.tinypic.com/2vjpraf.jpg
    Regards
    Chinnaiya P
    Edited by: chinnaiya pandiyan on May 28, 2010 4:59 PM

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