Fresh install on partitioned drive?

Hi,
I bought a used Mac Mini with Tiger, and I want to erase the hd and do a fresh install. However, it looks like it has Windoze installed in a separate partition. If I "Erase and Install" Tiger will it erase both partitions and restore the hd to a single volume? Or should I do something to prepare the drive before attempting the install?
Thanks,
Andrew

If you want to get rid of the second partition you will need to re-partition the drive (despite the term, you can have just one partition).
[Formatting & Partitioning a Hard Drive in OS X - Tiger and Leopard|http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/partitioningtiger.html]
[Journaling, Zeroing, Partitioning & OS 9 driver|http://forums.bombich.com/viewtopic.php?t=4084]
[Kappy's extensive hard drive formatting post|http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8340551&#8340551]
[BDaqua's Formatting instructions|http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=8901255#890125 5]

Similar Messages

Win 8.1: Reset vs Install on partitioned drive (XP- upgrade 8- upgrade 8.1) now need clean install

This is a little complicated.
I have a Thinkpad T-60 (4GB) and a T-61p (8GB)
Both machines have SATA drives partitioned in 3 (System, Images, Data)
Originally, both had XP (the T-61p was RAM upgraded to 8 GB before upgrade (remember the $50 early-bird special?)
I upgraded the T60 without problem (as I recall).
I had to get the 64-bit physical upgrade as you could only download the version you already had (32-bit; remember that disaster?) for the T-61p.
Figuring I had 4 GB on the T-60, I used 64 bit as well, ending up with only 3 GB active. I take it this was a waste and should have just used the 32-bit, right?
I clean installed (as I recall) 8.1 using a generic 8 key (right?) and then an 8.1 key (right?, or is that an 8 key that will still activate 8.1?)
So here it is 3 years later +/- and both 8.1 installs are pretty trashed so...
I downloaded both the 8.1 32-bit and 64-bit .iso's
I have my serial #'s
I tried a Reset on my Server last night (whole disk, no partitions) - it worked, and gave me an option to wipe all disks, or just the C: system disk (which I did, others intact). It is fine, all settings gone, no trash.
Now the question is what will happen with my partitioned drives. I want a clean install on the C: partition, and D: and E: left alone.
Will Reset trash all the partitions and load the entire disk? (NOT what I want) .. or ..
Should I use the Install option? (which I assume will go through the partition manager) and allow me to clean install on C: only.
Lastly, if I have read correctly, there is no point in putting 64-bit on the T-60 (4 GB) as all you end up is 3 GB active anyway, so I should go back to 32-bit and avoid the 64-bit headaches?
Thanks!!!

Hello qudrcps,
About the ThinkPad T-60 can’t only recognize 3GB ram, please take a look the follow thread.
http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60P-Windows-7-64-bit-only-using-3-GB-of-RAM/td-p/377623
Intel Chipsets 945GM and 945PM do not support more than 3GB system memory (RAM), even when a 64-bit operating system is installed.
Please contact the manufacturer to confirm if the laptop support 4GB ram.
Please note: Since the website is not hosted by Microsoft, the link may change without notice. Microsoft does not guarantee the accuracy of this information.
Please explain a bit about other requirements.
What do you mean about the physical disks 0,1? Do you have several disks?
About reset the Windows 8.1, please refer to the following article.
How to refresh, reset, or restore your PC
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-HK/windows-8/restore-refresh-reset-pc
How to perform a clean installation of Windows
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-HK/windows-8/clean-install
Best regards,
Fangzhou CHEN
Fangzhou CHEN
TechNet Community Support

Fresh install, random 100% drive usage and system wide lag.

Hi there, i just fresh installed Win 8.1 after having the issue of a svchost thrashing 100% disk access for minutes at a time and lagging whole system inc mouse pointer to the point that apps and games start to crash and the issue has not gone away.
I had also had the issue on old pc using different drives.
This is the 4th system where ive seen this behaviour in Win 8 since launch and was wondering if there is a fix yet? It happens on my 2 pc, my mothers laptop and a friends desktop, all with different hardware, 2 factory installs and 2x fresh installs
from untouched iso's.
It happens randomly when nothing is running on pc or sometimes when gaming or using apps and makes the desktop unresponsive for minutes at a time and sometimes crashes apps with it due to the system wide lag. Even ctrl alt deleting can take several
minutes for the menu to appear or even start Task Manager.
Ive managed to catch 1/2 the issue with procmon but due to taking so long for apps to launch while the lag happens i can only get the last 1/2 of the trace which shows a mix between a svchost, explorer.exe and wmiprvse.exe thrashing the system to a standstill
while accessing almost every file and reg key on the disk to over a million events recorded in procmon.
IS there a fix for this or a way to check the procmon trace to see exactly what service or task is causing the thrashing? I think whatever it is is buggy/broken, running at realtime and is blocking anything else from using the system until its done,
which lags the system.
Surely even an overloaded drive wouldnt cause other apps or the mouse to lag/hang so badly to the point of crashing and even Xp or Win 7 wouldnt lag/hang the desktop due to a busy drive.

Gerg
In order to diagnose your problem you will need to download and install the below
Install the WPT (windows Performance Toolkit) http://social.technet.microsoft.com/wiki/contents/articles/4847.install-the-windows-performance-toolkit-wpt.aspx ,
When you have open an elevated command prompt and type the following
WPRUI.exe (which is the windows performance recorder) and check off the boxes for the following
First level triage, CPU usage, Disk IO. If you problem is not CPU or HD then check off the relevant box/s as well (for example networking or registry)
Let it run for 60 secs or more and save the file (it will show you where it is being saved and what the file is called
Zip the file and upload to us on Onedrive (or any file sharing service) and give us a link to it in your next post.
Wanikiya and Dyami--Team Zigzag

"FILESYSTEM CHECK FAILED" - fresh install, clean partition

Hi,
I just installed Arch on my Asus EEE 701SD. Since GRUB is extremely slow (takes about 30-45 seconds from "loading..." to menu) I've set up my /boot on a separate flash drive. However, booting the new installation gives me the "FILESYSTEM CHECK FAILED" + maintenance shell. I've tried running fsck with various options but none of it has helped. Apparently, the partition is clean so I'm not quite sure what's going on. Any suggestions?
Cheers:)

The hook "usb" should work too, so I don't think we're on the right track here. But since it doesn't hurt you can add the actual kernel modules to the modules= line:
usbcore ehci-hcd (and/or uhci-hcd) usb-storage and maybe the filesystem used (and it's dependencies like ciphers).
Greets,
demian
// I guess I'm a slow typer. Why don't you show us your /etc/fstab?
From what you've written the system shouldn't be able to boot since there's no fstab entry for /boot. Maybe I misunderstood you.
Last edited by demian (2010-06-07 23:00:48)

Fresh Install after boot drive crashed... advice needed plaese

So wake up today turn on my tower and all I get is a grey screen and a clicking boot drive. Sounds like the other three drives are mounting fine. Or my tower is need of some Snow.
So I know enough to say bye bye boot drive.... my question is-
I now have purchased Snow Leopard and will start fresh. Should I take out the remaining three drives while I handle a clean install. Any advice to make this process a bit more painless? I back up all drives expect my boot UGH... I am going to start using time machine.... learned a lesson.

There's no way to know how long a delay will be while waiting for a 'time-out'. It depends on how well or how poorly the OS is able to communicate with the drive, and how bad the controller chips on the drive are. You can view the problem as a Quality of Service issue. Your Mac is trying to communicate with the drive, determine it's size/type/format/timing etc, while also verifying the quality of the data. CRC error checking takes place along with a host of quality control measures implemented with each new version of Mac OS. Leopard made some drives fail due to poorly designed firmwares on the controller chips. SL got even pickier.
During this process, that's failing, the problem could be any part of the driver verification system.
On the other hand, if the drive quits spinning or the controller chips don't answer back at all, the 'time-out' will probably end sooner.
It's luck of the draw when you try to determine the exact cause of a drive failure - controller chips, drive motor, head crash platter damage, r/w head... I just call it 'bad' and throw the drives into a bin where they will get speared with a digging bar before going to recycle

How to do a FRESH install on NEW drive

I had my iMac's internal HD upgraded to 1TB today. The drive is a blank canvas so far. I've installed multiple OS Xs on Macs with factory drives, but never a retail drive. Do I do it the same way? i.e. pop in the disc and go to work?
I plan on reserving 15GB for Windows XP (gotta play Magic Online somehow)

Nick Rooney wrote:
I had my iMac's internal HD upgraded to 1TB today. The drive is a blank canvas so far. I've installed multiple OS Xs on Macs with factory drives, but never a retail drive. Do I do it the same way? i.e. pop in the disc and go to work?
I plan on reserving 15GB for Windows XP (gotta play Magic Online somehow)
Piece of cake
Just insert the DVD and go through the normal process.
When the system reboots, you should be given a selection of drives on which to install Leopard.
Just be sure to select the proper one - the empty one and wait.

G5 won't start up, did fresh install...

I've done a lot of searching but can't figure out what to do next. The problem originally started when my G5 only booted to the blank blue screen. Followed the directions off this website one by one, and finally fixed it (By booting up in Single User mode).
However, after a few restarts the problem persisted and could not be solved with the fix it doc on this site anymore. Ran Disk Utility, Hadware Test, all fine. Did Archive and Install, but this time, once I shut down it got stuck on the ticking wheel on the grey screen.
So I backed up and did a fresh install, erasing the drive and reinstalling OSX. Same problem! It boots up on the install, but won't restart. My clients are getting impatient, please help!
Many Thanks,
Chris

Tried all of your suggestions to no avail, but still some great stuff to know.
I had already removed everything except necessary RAM and on a hunch decided to swap out my video card for a friends with my same model. Booted no problem. It was the damned video card.
Makes sense as anything that gets stuck on a boot up off a fresh install would indicate hardware issues, I just never thought a video card going bad could do that! Grrr... Oh well. Thanks for the help! ATI will be getting a call from me bright and early Monday morning, at least it's still under warranty.
G5 Dual 2.5 Mac OS X (10.3.9) 6.5 GB RAM

G4 Freezes with fresh install of Panther

Posted here :
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=507569&tstart=0
Here's a short re-cap of the G4-350mhz (AGP graphics) with 512mb ram (4x 128mb kingston ram), 40gb hdd, ATI rage128, USb mouse/keyboard
1. Fresh install (erase/partition etc) of panther, machine freezes randomly
2. updated all with software update and freezes EVEN MORE. it got so bad that moving mouse to task bar will freeze everything.
3. when it freezes. Nothing else works accept the reset button (keyboard will not do any thing)
Any pointer and help apperciated.

I hope you try a Mac again (a good one this time!). I truly believe you will never go back once you own a good one!
Cheers!
DALE

How do install windows hard drive (from dead pc) into boot camp partition

My Windows 7 desktop died recently, so I took the opportunity to buy a Mac Mini (latest version as of Feb 2012) as a replacement. I want to transfer the Windows 7 installation (from the dead PC) including all applications, accounts, settings, user files, etc to the Boot Camp Partition. Can someone please provide the steps on how to perform the Win 7 migration to the Mac Mini.

Just to clarify:
I want to install the Windows 7 installation from dead the PC into the Mac Mini's Boot Camp partition.
I installed the PC's hard drive into an enclosure and connected it to the Mac Mini via the USB port.
What I want to do is the following:
1) Do a Windows 7 "fresh" install in the Mac Mini Boot Camp partition.
2) Migrate all the applications installed on the Windows 7 PC and their associated data.
3) Migrate all user accounts and data.
Is there a tool that can transfer all applications and user accounts from the Windows 7 Hard Drive to the Boot Camp partition on the Mini?
Based on the documentation the Window Migration tool is Lion OS utility and does not perform a complete migration of all applications installed on the Windows machine.
thank you.

Installing Lion on partitioned drive

I am sure this already been discussed, but I couldn't find an answer on my search through the forums. I d/l Lion today and the installer is saying that I cannot install on my main startup disc which has 10.6.8. My drive is partitioned.
I am sure there is something I have missed, so advice is welcome

OK, then first do this:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
Oh, and I would quit the Lion installer for now. Make a copy of it and store the copy in your Downloads folder so you can later make a bootable installer USB flash drive. See:
Make Your Own Lion Installer
1. After downloading Lion you must first save the Install Mac OS X Lion application. After Lion downloads DO NOT click on the Install button. Go to your Applications folder and make a copy of the Lion installer. Move the copy into your Downloads folder. Now you can click on the Install button. You must do this because the installer deletes itself automatically when it finishes installing Lion.
2. Get a USB flash drive that is at least 8 GBs. Prep this flash drive as follows:
Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
3. Locate the saved Lion installer in your Downloads folder. CTRL- or RIGHT-click on the installer and select Show Package Contents from the contextual menu. Double-click on the Contents folder to open it. Double-click on the SharedSupport folder. In this folder you will see a disc image named InstallESD.dmg.
4. Plug in your freshly prepared USB flash drive. You are going to clone the InstallESD.dmg disc image to the flash drive as follows:
Open Disk Utility.
Select the USB flash drive from the left side list.
Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
Check the box labeled Erase destination.
Select the USB flash drive volume from the left side list and drag it to the Destination entry field.
Drag the InstallESD.dmg disc image file into the Source entry field.
Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
When the clone is completed you have a fully bootable Lion installer that you can use without having to re-download Lion.

IBook G3 Will Not Boot - ?/face Icon on fresh install to new hard drive!!

Well, this is my first post here, but I hope someone out there may be able to help me....
I've got this iBook G3, and it will not boot. Originally, I got it and the hard drive was kind of suspect. I was able to install Tiger and use it, but it just stopped booting one day. I figured it was the hard drive, because it wouldn't boot to the OS even when stripped of the extra ram and after a fresh install via target disk mode from my Powermac. So, I changed the drive and reinstalled Tiger. It still won't boot.
Oh, and I've tried resetting the PRAM and resetting open firmware. Any ideas?

^^^I'm installing from a family pack and this is the only computer I'm running Tiger on...all of my others are Leopard. Which, now that I think about it, is another reason that cloning the drive to the iBook wouldn't allow it to boot. However, I know the drive is good at least, because my Powermac can boot from it.
Anyway, I put in a 512 mb stick, and it then will get to the grey Apple screen, where it hangs forever. If I do verbose mode, the last line says "creating RAM disk for /var/run"
It sounds like a RAM problem still. I think I have some actual Apple RAM laying around somewhere (maybe a 128 mb), as the stuff that's in it now is not "Mac Ram," but it is what was working when the computer was working before. I'm still at a loss. I know the method I'm using (restored Tiger DVD to partition on iBook due to a bad optical drive), as I've done it before. In fact, it's even the same image from the last time I did it, as I never deleted the .dmg file.

I did not deactivate a photoshop cs6 before there was a new hard drive installed with a Win7 Pro fresh install too. How can I activate photoshop on the new hardware if I can't deactivate it on the old hardware that is no longer available? Any help will be

I did not deactivate a photoshop cs6 before there was a new "C" hard drive installed on my computer and a Win7 Pro fresh install too. How can I activate photoshop on the new hardware if I can't deactivate it on the old hardware that is no longer available? Any help will be appreciated.

If it's the same machine (same CPU) there should not be any need to activate. The actiovation is tied to your CPU.
If you run into problems, then:
Unfortunately, only Adobe customer service can assist you with your issue. These are user forums; you are not addressing Adobe here.
Click on the link below, and after that click on "Still need Help? Contact us."
Then on the next page, click Chat
There is also a phone option. 1 (800) 833-6687
http://helpx.adobe.com/contact.html?step=PHXS_downloading-installing-setting-up_licensing- activation

Windows 7 Ultimate (64-Bit) fresh install, only WLAN and video driver installed but EXTREMELY slow internet connection...

I recently checked my internet connection on my Asus G53SW and found that it was extremely slow on both the LAN and WLAN connections. I checked with a different laptop (old HP Pavilion) and I get a steady 74mbps+ connection using the same LAN cable and
also with the WLAN connection. My ISP has checked their side and everything is fine.
To try and resolve the issue I tried uninstalling, disabling and tweaking various software and even tried safe mode with networking, all to no avail. I then decided to do a complete fresh install this afternoon. I have installed Windows 7 Ultimate (64 bit)
successfully onto my SSD and everything went smoothly. I have now only installed Nvidia video drivers and the (only) WLAN driver from the Asus support site.
My WLAN connection remains incredibly slow (amost half what it is on the HP and my MacBook Pro). Clearly this is an issue with either the Asus laptop or Windows but I don't know how to proceed in order to eliminate which it could be other than to try a different
o/s to W7-Ult.
Can anyone help who knows more about this than me? Perhaps someone who has had a similar or the same problem because this is giving me a severe headache!
Thanks in advance to all and for any advice.
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if(null != object) object.Submit(browserID, tabID, target, url); }; </script>

Thank you for responding. As I stated in my original post the reason I went through this process was because of an extremely slow internet connection from both the WLAN and LAN connections on my G53SW. At that time I had all of the correct drivers on the
machine. Whilst I would agree that with the machine only having a video and WLAN driver it may well not be working 'optimally', the rationale for doing this was to get the machine working with the minimum of processes to show that it was not anti-virsu software,
Steam or the like causing interference.
I have changed out both of the HDDs this evening (a primary SSD and a secondary 1Tb HDD) for a clean hybrid 1Tb Seagate drive. Once I have installed all of the Asus drivers (and nothing else) I will try the speed test again and report back.
I can now report that with a fresh install of Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 and ONLY Asus drivers as supplied the issue remains. On a connection where I should see around 75mbps I am actually getting around 18mbps, sometimes considerably slower. This only affects
my Asus machine.
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New Hard Drive and Fresh Install

I have a late 2006 iMac and I bought an internal 1TB hard drive today to upgrade it. I initially thought to clone my current internal drive to the new one, but I figured that doing a fresh install of Leopard would give better performance. I have a USB adapter for this new drive to connect it externally (temporarily).
My question is... What is the best way to copy my information if I do a fresh install on the new drive? I do have another external drive with a Time Machine backup and I know how to copy over my iTunes library to another computer (I did it with my MacBook) but how would I copy all my other information? The things most important to me are Mail with all my e-mails and accounts and iPhoto with all my pictures. I can copy all my other folders no problem. But like I said, what I'm concerned about most is my Mail and all my pictures. Would all the albums in iPhoto be kept? Basically, I would like to make the new drive as cloned as possible to the original one while doing a fresh install.
Thanks.

I also just purchased a 1TB Internal hard drive - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm - and used Carbon Copy Cloner to clone my original hard drive (which is running Tiger). Everything seems to be normal, except the the long boot up process. The desktop appears, the dock appears, and then there is a long pause of 20 to 30 seconds before the drives mount and and the desktop folders appear. I have 10 gigs of RAM, I have rebuilt the Directory with Disk Warrior 4.1, and also repaired the disk permissions (although some of them state that they can't be repaired). When I reboot from my original 250 Gig hard drive, the boot is lightning fast. Any thoughts? I have many third party software programs installed and am trying to avoid a fresh Leopard Install. Thanks, this is my first post!

New Hard Drive- Should I use Time Machine for "fresh" install?

I have a first generation Early 2008 MacbookPro. Warranty just ended and I want to replace the hard drive w/ the Seagate Momentus XT Hybrid. I'm getting a bunch of spin wheel action and things are just running slowly/sluggish. I'm questioning whether or not I should just do a real "fresh" install and load my applications onto the new drive or use TimeMachine. If I use TM am I not adding all the stuff/files that are not needed? Am I adding bloat that I've collected over the past couple of years? Is it better to start w/ a new clean operating system? I do have CS5 and some photo programs that I think I can reinstall. Anyway I wanted to get people's perspective.
Message was edited by: mikked

It's usually best to clean your system up, and deal with any problems before doing major surgery.
With any other scenario, if something goes wrong, how will you know what it was, much less how to fix it?
I'd start with this: [Intel-based Macs: Using Apple Hardware Test|http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509].
Then Verify your internal HD, and repair your Time Machine drive, per #A5 in [Time Machine - Troubleshooting|http://web.me.com/pondini/Time_Machine/Troubleshooting.html] (or use the link in *User Tips* at the top of this forum).
Then run a +*Repair Permissions+* on your internal HD, via Disk Utility.
Then replace the drive, do a full system restore and run for a while to be sure the new drive and everything else is ok. See #14 in [Time Machine - Frequently Asked Questions|http://web.me.com/pondini/Time_Machine/FAQ.html] (or use the link in *User Tips* at the top of this forum), for details.
Then start deleting the apps and files you don't need.
Note that, unlike Windoze, leftover files and apps may take up a bit of space, but don't cause any performace problems, unless they're actually running.
The main problems with trying to transfer things selectively are:
Permissions. If you install OSX and set up a user account, that account, even if it has the same name, may not have permission to restore the files on your backups or other drives.
Applications. Simple apps can be transferred individually, such as by restoring from Time Machine. Complex ones usually can't, as their installers put other files in other places. If you don't know what and where they all are, and restore them, too, the app won't work properly, if at all. But if you have all the original discs (and serial numbers/purchase keys), you can just reinstall them.

Fresh install on partitioned drive?

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