Imac g3 failing-

Hey everyone… hope you can advise. My 6-y-o daughter’s imac has been running very slowly and died briefly yesterday – I was able to fix it by hooking it up to my MacBook in Target mode and running disk utility. The SMART status now says ‘failing’. There isn’t anything really important on there that needs to be backed up – she really just uses it for the internet. I have to replace the damaged slot-drive anyway so I guess this is as good a time as any to replace the HD too. With that in mind, these are my questions:
• How long is it likely to last before crashing completely?
• What kind of HD would I need to get for it? I recently replaced my ibook HD so would it be the same size HD I should get? Or are HDs for desktop computers physically bigger?
BTW, it’s 700mhz processor with 256 mb ram and slot-loading drive and runs Tiger…
Thanks so much for any help!

Since the S.M.A.R.T status says "failing," I would assume that it won't last much longer.
I found a nice 80 GB Hitachi Desktar HD for an iMac that I have for $50. The HD size will not be the same as in your iBook; you are correct that desktop computers have larger HD's than laptops. Laptops use a 2.5" drive, while desktops use a 3.5" drive.
While your doing all the upgrades, why not add some more RAM? 256 MB is enough to support Tiger, but 512 MB or more will make things run much faster. However, if your daughter only plans to use the computer for internet, or you only plan for her to use it for the internet, then the RAM upgrade really isn't that important.
I hope that all helps.

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When i bought this iMac i failed to register correctly and as i am trying to install a printer i need to do this when i am logging on. How can i create new password

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See
http://osxdaily.com/2011/08/24/reset-mac-os-x-10-7-lion-password/ and
http://osxdaily.com/2011/09/19/change-password-mac-os-x-10-7-lion-without-knowin g-current-password/
which also apply to Mtn Lion and Macericks.

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during the start up of my imac, logon failed and the user doesn't exit anymore . i have performed a password recovery and i'm using the mac root user. is it possible to recover my user and my profile ? and how ?
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Ifd you go to /Users does your home folder still exists? If so, then go into Accouns and make a new user account with your same name, and this is very important, same short name. When you do, you will get a message that a home folder already existsd and would you like to use it, say yes and then log out and your account should be there. If there is no home folder your only option is to restore from a backup.

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Back up all data.
This procedure will unlock all your user files (not system files) and reset their ownership and access-control lists to the default. If you've set special values for those attributes on any of your files, they will be reverted. In that case, either stop here, or be prepared to recreate the settings if necessary. Do so only after verifying that those settings didn't cause the problem. If none of this is meaningful to you, you don't need to worry about it.
I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, they may not work as described.
Step 1
If you have more than one user account, and the one in question is not an administrator account, then temporarily promote it to administrator status in the Users & Groups preference pane. To do that, unlock the preference pane using the credentials of an administrator, check the box marked
Allow user to administer this computer
Then reboot. You can demote the problem account back to standard status when this step has been completed.
Triple-click anywhere in the following line on this page to select it:
{ sudo chflags -R nouchg,nouappnd ~ $TMPDIR..; sudo chown -R $UID:staff ~ $_; sudo chmod -R u+rwX ~ $_; chmod -R -N ~ $_; } 2>&-
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
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You'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you don’t have a login password, you’ll need to set one before you can run the command. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator.
The command may take a few minutes to run, or perhaps longer if you have literally millions of files in your home folder. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign ($) to appear, then quit Terminal.
Step 2 (optional)
Take this step only if you have trouble with Step 1, if you prefer not to take it, or if it doesn't solve the problem.
Boot into Recovery. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select
Utilities ▹ Terminal
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In the Terminal window, type this:
res
Press the tab key. The partial command you typed will automatically be completed to this:
resetpassword
Press return. A Reset Password dialog will open. You’re not going to reset a password.
In the dialog, select the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name) if it's not already selected.
Select your username from the menu labeled Select the user account if it's not already selected.
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Intel iMac with failed LogicBoard - can I use it as display for my MacMini?

I have a Intel iMac with failed logic board (the display comes up while booting sometimes and sometimes, it doesn't). I bought a Mac Mini afterwards. I connected it to a Dell monitor with HDMI and the results aren't great. I experience interminttent video losses (Grains on screen every 1 minute or so).
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No, the failed imac is dead until you replace the logic board.

FaceTime loud speaker pop out of iMac after failed call

Hi all,
I have been experiencing a wierd issue lately. I have been using facetime on my mac (Imac 27" 2009 model) to another buddy who has a brand new mac with facetime. We both have OSX lion and most times it works flawlessly. One nasty thing I have seen is if I try to call him and it fails, if he tries to call me back right away as the call comes in my imacs speakers start poping really loudly. Louder than the volume is set to.. I cant turn it off with the mute either... I end up having to quickly go into facetime and turn it off and then reboot to make it go away.. its really annoying and im afraid its going to hurt my speakers.. anyone else see this?

Also I copied this from my other computer web page:
Reported Phishing website ahead. Your network ha been monitored. Your network has been compromised due to Browser hijacking.The browser hijacking software may redirect you towards phishing websites that try to access your Login Password details. To fix this browser redirection issue we recommend you ask for instant help. Help Line 1 877 899 1824.
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Call Helpline 1877 899 1824
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IMac Display failing after 1 year of average use.

I have a mid 2011 27" iMac (the one with thunderbolt) and the display is starting to fail after 1 year of average use (an hour of use every day on average). The display is now much dimmer on the left half of the display (the GPU sits underneath that portion) and also flickers the whole display now and then to a lower brightness.
I am about 45 days out of warranty and basically will have to cough up $500 to have it fixed by Apple. My questions are... Has anyone else ever had this happen to them? The genius bar employee thought that it was something he has seen happen to displays when exposed to heat over long periods of time. So basically playing starcraft 2 and doing video encoding killed my display if you believe that to be the cause.
Are there any conditions in which apple would recognize this as a manufacturing defect and fix it free of charge? Otherwise it looks like im writing a check for $500 next week.

Today a dark streak showed up on my display right in the middle. It is shaped like a zebra stripe but is dark grey and wont go away.
I too have a mid 2011 27" 3.4GHz i7 iMac with a 2GB Graphics card . Im about 50 days out of warranty.
Seems like its perfect coincidence for apple that 50 days after my warranty runs out, the most expensive thing to repair breaks.
After doing some research it seems like there is a lot of people with this model experiencing this problem.
Pretty sad that my 2005 iMac is holding up better than my brand new iMac.
Been saving up for it for like 4 years and I dont have the money to repair it.
I tried everything, I knew none of the stuff i tried would work but i still tried resetting the PRAM repairing disk permissions all that good stuff. I even have an air purifer/dehumidifier in my room so i dont know what caused it.
I didnt think i needed applcare because ive had my other imac since 2005 without a hiccup.
Ive rendered out 3d animations using the cpu at 100% for days and it still runs fine.
Havent even used my new imac for anything that would put stress on it.
What i do notice is that it runs hot all the time. ever since I got it. Sometimes just doing basic stuff such as browsing safari it can get so hot where i cant touch it. my GPU normally stays at around 70C and the hottest its been was 80C which is still safe. The alluminum is supposed to transfer heat better but all it does is retain heat more and get super hot. the old plastic one i have is 10x cooler.
What i did notice today tho when my screen problem happened, is that the GPU temperatue is at 50C and wont go above it. I monitor the temperature with istat and never have seen it at 50C and below unless i am just doing a fresh boot.
What really concerns me tho is how the screen went out so close to when my warranty expired.

Another iMac G5 failing to start up

Hello!
I'm writing for my 84-year old neighbor, whose computer has given her much stress since last summer. I believe she purchased it in 2005 (Serial #W8445*PP6). Last summer the power supply died, and was replaced; last month the hard drive died, and it was replaced with a Seagate 320GB 7200, and Leopard was installed.
Since then, periodically there was a loud whine coming from the unit. Today, upon startup, the gray screen with the Apple logo and spinning gear appeared, stayed for about 10 seconds, and then the screen went black and shut down.
I read through the iMac G5 forum posts regarding similar problems, and from the tips contained there I tried the following:
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- Used Disk Utility to attempt to Repair the disk; 'Repair' wasn't an option, only 'Verify', so I attempted that; after about 10 seconds, the following message appeared:
Disk Utility stopped verifying 'MacIntosh HD' because the following error was encountered:
File system verify or repair failed.'
Within the progress window, the following appeared:
Invalid key length
Volume check failed
Error: File system verify or repair failed.
Perhaps of note is that last week I used Disk Utility from within the installed OS to Repair Permissions, and when about 1/4 of the progress bar was filled and 'about 1 minute' remained, no further progress occurred, even after 15 minutes. I repeated this two more times, with the same result.
Today, after unsuccessful First Aid from the Install disk, I then wondered what would happen if I took a few steps into an Installation of the OS; I got to the 'Select a Destination' screen, and there were no destination possibilities - just an empty window.
So, might the new hard drive have failed? Or something else?
Based on the serial #, it seems that this unit qualifies for the Repair Extension program; do the issues with this computer correspond with that program?
One further question: How do I get the Leopard Install disk out of the computer?
Thanks!
David
Message was edited by: Host

If the drive was replaced only last month, the repair should still be under warranty, it would be best to contact the repair shop and take it in to have it properly fixed.
Using Disk Utility can take an enormous amount of time, almost 3/4 of an hour in some cases. The progress bar bears no relation to reality.
You should also certainly call Apple and see if they will help, although the repair extension isn't valid for computers that were bought over three years ago.
Let us know how she makes out,

Ethernet connection to iMac has failed

I have 4 year old iMac running Yosemite and connected via ethernet to a Verizon Fios router. All has functioned well until yesterday when the ethernet connection failed. I can still connect via wifi if I unplug the ethernet cable. With the cable plugged in I get a yellow indicator for both ethernet and wifi. Unplugging the cable lets the wifi signal to turn green and connect.
What is wrong with the ethernet connection and how do I test and fix it? I tried another cable which did not fix the problem.
Thanks, AHCMac

When the ethernet is plugged in does the connectivity light go on.. at least on the router.. Macs are not sophisticated enough to have connectivity light I guess.
Do you have anything else in the house connected by ethernet?
Or something you could test and prove the issue is Mac not router??
If the Mac is the issue.. go to the ethernet configuration .. give me a couple of screenshots.
Try setting the speed down.. by changing to manual configuration.. and set to 100mbit or even 10mbit..

IMac error: Failed to issue COM RESET

After my iMac got slower en and freezed i tried resetting the Pram and in single user mode i did *fsck -fy*
then i get the following error:
*Failed to issue COM RESET successfully after 3 attempts. Failing...*
after that nothing worked anymore!!! only the Windows vista partition worked for a day or two. is this a harddrive failure something worse?
Message was edited by: Birkhoff (title changed)

I believe posting relevant facts is productive, & a very relevant fact here is that you are trying to use a drive with an interface (SATA-II) that Apple does not currently support in its laptops.
SATA-I controllers are supposed to be compatible with SATA-II drives, but many of them are not. The problem is how some controllers implement auto negotiation, which is supposed to tell the drive to fall back to SATA-1 speeds with the slower controllers. Some SATA-II drives have a jumper to force the slower speed if auto negotiation doesn't work; some do not.
How this compatibility problem came about, & why the jumper is required, is complicated but the short version is that at least four different specification bodies had some responsibility in producing SATA specifications, & not all controllers were designed to the same standards. This includes not just the controllers Apple has been using but those in many PC's as well.
So I agree that Apple dropped the ball, but not necessarily the way you might think: it should have made it very clear that the firmware update implemented an unsupported interface speed, that it might cause problems, & (most importantly) provided a reversion strategy to the former firmware if it did.
Hopefully, Apple will take another 'swing' at this & either provide that reversion strategy or a new update that at least allows the controller to work more reliably with the faster interface. But until then, unless your drive has the jumper, my previous suggestion is probably the best you can do.
BTW, none of the current mechanical drives available for laptops can saturate a SATA-1 bus except for brief bursts from the drive's buffer, so the real loss in performance of running a single SATA-II drive at SATA-1 speeds is almost negligible, something you might notice in a benchmark but not in real-world use.

HT2801 How to make external "SuperDrive" work on iMac with failed built-in?

WHY is my new external "SuperDrive" "designed exclusively for use with Mac computers that do not have a built-in optical drive"? How can I make it work on my iMac with a failed built-in "SuperDrive" that was obviously junk to begin with? I ordered it from a Staples kiosk that had zero product information but the name of the product was USB SuperDrive and it was made by Apple so I reasoned it would run on my Apple. I bought an LG 2 months ago when the built-in failed but the LG only worked about a month then every disc burn was aborted as "error." So I bought new burn software from the Apple app store but still "error" so I went to Staples and bought this and it didn't work so I ise a magnifying glass to read the light grey letters on the white box and it says "Compatible with Mac systems without a built-in optical drive." I found articles online advising how to hack my own computer to make this work but I am low-tech and afraid of wrecking my computer. I am FURIOUS with Apple, I buy it only because Windows gave me such grief but honestly Apple hardware has OFTEN proven itself short-lived and low quality. PLEASE how do I burn an audio CD with my stupid iMac peice of garbage?

Calm down.
If you so choose here are some quality optical drives you can purchase, online here.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/VLU2SD24XS/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MR3F82SD24S/
For Mac burning software, you can purchase and use Roxio Toast.
http://www.roxio.com/
OR you can try this freeware software called simply Burn.
http://burn-osx.sourceforge.net/Pages/English/home.html

IMac G5 failed 10.5 update - won't boot now, spinning wheel

Please help, I bought my mom an iPad because she broke both ankles and is gonna be bed ridden for several weeks, and needed some way to get email, etc.
She has an iMac g5 2ghz non iSight. The iPad needs to be plugged into iTunes to work the first time, but her iMac had 10.4 on it. Well, iTunes requires 10.5 or higher. So i upgraded it and somewhere in the middle the update failed (I suspect a bad DVD). The computer wanted to restart, and since then, it will not boot, just a gray screen with apple logo, and the forever spinning wheel of frustration. I ran through the 10.5 installer again (this time using a different disk and it seemed to complete, and when it restarted at the end, same thing - spinning wheel, not happy.
So I boot off the OS x install DVD, run disk utilities, repair disk finds no errors, repair permissions says one minute remaining but never finishes, it ran all night long and I finally just gave up and turned it off this morning.
I have come to the conclusion that I will be formatting the HD tonight after work. But I need to get all her pictures, emails, and contact list off that drive first. I figure I'll use my old G4 (10.4 I think?) and put her iMac into target disk mode, and hopefully mount the drive to the G4 with the FireWire cable (I pray this works otherwise... Cry)
My main question, please help me out in locating her address book / contact list. She uses the Mac mail app for email. What files and/or folders do I need to copy so that once I format, I can (hopefully) just copy those folders back to the freshly installed OS 10.5, and theoretically make it seem like nothing happened.
Also, any suggestions anyone can offer me that don't involve formatting would be appreciated... But mostly, just need to figure what I need to backup.
Thanks so much, it's been a very difficult few days, and the added stress of this computer is just no good for the entire situation.

Copy her User (home) folder and Applications folder and you should have everything she needs.

Installing Photoshop through CC on an iMac (Mavericks) fails at 90 percent - ASU has quit unexpectedly.

Trying to install Photoshop CC 2014 through Creative Cloud on an iMac running Yosemite. I have the CC Photography plan, although I first attempted the install during the demo period and the end result was identical to now.
The install stops at 90%.
It seems that the main installer actually succeeds (Photoshop is left in a usable state) but maybe fails to register itself properly with CC.
If I restart CC, Photoshop shows as installed, but with an upgrade available. If I try to upgrade then it stalls at 50%.
The failure in /Library/Logs/Adobe/Installers/Adobe Photoshop CC 2014 15.0 01-07-2015.log.gz is "ASU has quit unexpectedly."
~/Library/Logs/PDapp.log says:
01/07/15 22:47:45:465 | [INFO] | | ASU | vulcanEventDispatcher | vulcanEventDispatcher | | | 145752 | Build Version - 8.0.0.156
01/07/15 22:47:45:465 | [INFO] | | ASU | vulcanEventDispatcher | vulcanEventDispatcher | | | 145752 | Logging Level verbosity Set to 4
01/07/15 22:47:45:465 | [INFO] | | ASU | vulcanEventDispatcher | vulcanEventDispatcher | | | 145752 | Taking appId as default in broadcastVulcanEventForLicenseRefresh
01/07/15 22:47:45:466 | [INFO] | | ASU | Vulcan5EventHandler | Vulcan5EventHandler | | | 145752 | Build Version - 8.0.0.156
01/07/15 22:47:45:466 | [INFO] | | ASU | Vulcan5EventHandler | Vulcan5EventHandler | | | 145752 | Logging Level verbosity Set to 4
01/07/15 22:47:45:466 | [ERROR] | | ASU | Vulcan5EventHandler | Vulcan5EventHandler | | | 145752 | Inside sendVulcan5MessageForLicenseRefresh.
If I uninstall and re-install it stops at 90% again.
Rebooting doesn't help, either in normal mode or into safe mode with no other apps running.
I've logged out of CC and back in again.
So far the problem is consistent and reproducible every time.
Lightroom installed with no errors.

I'd already forwarded the logs to Varun.
It seems your mail system is also not fit for purpose. If an email containing a zip file generated by one of your own tools is silently dropped then how is that usable by support?
As I explained to Varun on the phone, I use this computer for work and I'm connected to a corporate VPN so for company confidentiality reasons I'm not willing to give him access. However I'm happy to be guided through any steps sensible required outside of office hours...
So to that end I spent over an hour on the phone with Varun to no avail.
I do not feel that anyone I have spoken to has any real expertise. No one has looked at the log files that I have supplied. Varun hadn't read up on the case history or forum post. He started off asking me to download Creative Cloud as if I hadn't already done that already. His main suggestion was to install the software as root, which is dumb for a couple of reasons as a) OS X does not allow the root user to have a graphical session for security reasons, root privileges are accessed via sudo. b) the installer uses sudo anyway to install as root:admin rendering his suggestion meaningless.
For the record, and so that other people know what DOESN'T help, the other suggestions that Varun asked me to try are:
1) changing the permissions of /Library/Application Data/Adobe/ and ~/Library/Application Data/Adobe/ and all the folders bellow so that everyone has read and write access (doing so for the latter directory also makes no sense since all the files and directories below it are owned by my and the only users involved are my user and root and both already had full access). Needless to say the upgrade stalled at 50% as before and the same failures were reported in the logs.
2) launching the update from within Photoshop itself (from the 'Help' menu, click [Update..]). The install won't proceed as it says that 'Adobe Application Manager' is running. I can see that the Adobe Application Manager is launched when Photoshop is started, but at Varun's insistence I still rebooted my machine and tried again. Surprise, surprise, Adobe Application Manager was launched when Photoshop started and the upgrade refused to proceed in the same way.
3) downloading the Photoshop installer outside of CC and installing that. The install succeeds, but CC still says that an update is pending. Clicking update results in the same hang at 50%.
That was the sum total of the suggestions I received. I need someone who understands the logs (ideally someone who at least has source code access) to have a read through as I feel all the key information is there. I don't think that having a 1st line support person hacking around on my machine without reference to the information I've already supplied is of any benefit to anyone. I don't like having my time wasted.
Varun agreed to escalate the issue last night, but I've not heard anything since, and tomorrow is that day that I have to cancel my subscription if this is not resolved.
Given that I've not had any use out of these products over the last month (why invest time in a product that you're likely to throw out of the window?), the idea of paying a month's for the last month's subscription would be rather galling. I don't like the general concept of software as a service anyway, but especially as I have received no service even with an active subscription, this appears to be the nail in the coffin for me.
I've asked several times now, but can you please give me the details of how I can make a complaint.
Thanks,
Gavin.

Late 2009 iMac is failing. No obvious reason - help!

My late 2009 iMac has been getting slower and slower in last few months and is now practically dead. I've checked everything (Ram, CPU, rogue processes) and can see nothing obvious. I have 1.8GB free RAM, CPU never looks busy in Activity monitor. I upgraded to Mavericks on hope it would help but nadda.
I keep getting the waiting ball appear when I try to do things. Sometimes I get an hour of undisturbed bliss, then relentless waiting with every click. When I restart the machine it is always at its worse, till about 2-3 hours later when the iMac seems to have settled and I can actually do a few things without prolonged waiting.
I tried to reinstall Mavericks to see if that worked but the reinstall failed at the last minute, leaving me back where I started.
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    Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
    Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
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    90 MB    WindowServer
Virtual Memory Information: ?
    1.80 GB    Free RAM
    1.46 GB    Active RAM
    222 MB    Inactive RAM
    535 MB    Wired RAM
    417 MB    Page-ins
    0 B    Page-outs

Un-install Trusteer. Known trouble maker.
Trusteer Rapport Uninstall
Activity Monitor - Mavericks
Activity Monitor in Mavericks has significant changes
Performance Guide
Why is my computer slow
Why your Mac runs slower than it should
Slow Mac After Mavericks
Things you can do to resolve slowdowns see post by Kappy

Intel iMac FaceTime fail?

I've recently downloaded FaceTime for my Intel iMac which is running OSX 10.6.8. The person I'm trying to call is on the latest version of iPad. I've successfully created an AppleID and am using that address with FaceTime. Whenever make a call, it rings on the other end, in which they accept. It then says Connecting.... but fails everytime. They have successfully used FaceTime with other iPads, but not with any Macs.
The version of FaceTime I bought from the app store says that it is 1.0.2 (166). Can anyone help me troubleshoot? Is there a later version I need, or do I perhaps have something configured improperly?

Troubleshooting FaceTime Mac http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4185

Clicking iMac and Failing USB Ports

Hey. I've had my new iMac G5, 18.ghz for about a month now. I'm new to abll ebut I love it until a few days ago. My iMac every few minutes or so makes a click and then just keeps going. It's a sound from the computer and not the speakers. Also yesterday my lowest USB port at the back of my computer failed and nothhing i plugged into it would work. I ran a hardware test and everything came back saing it was fine. I restarted and all my USB ports were not working! I resttarted again and now everything is fine. Has anyone else had hte same problem?

The keyboard USB port is USB not USB 2 and doesn't have a lot of power. The back ports are USB 2.0 and have more power.
If the USB ports are drawing too much current they will shutdown and there should be a note in the log telling you so.
Open the 'Utilities' folder and then run Console and look at the time it happened and see if its there or not.
If they shut down restarting is probably resetting them.
Well if its the side opposite the CD slot then I'd think hard drive. Run disk utility and see what it says under 'SMART status' It should say 'Verified'
Does it lag when its making the 'Click'? and is it aloud click or more like regular drive activity all of a sudden?
as StevenC said its probably a good idea to back up any data you have.
--Spire

Imac g3 failing-

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