K8T Neo - Thermal Paste - Temperature

hi guys...
I just bought a KT8 Neo and a AM64 2800 processor in a box, when i check the temp it says 50C , is this ok?, all the time i bought and AMD always had this problem, my solution was buy another cooler, but that was in Socket A..
Anybody had remove the gray thermal paste that comes with the standard cooler of AMD, and replace it with other one?
TIA

Quote from: Monkeydee on 21-March-05, 12:51:17
i'm having a similar problem
the big difference being that i'm using the K8 TT silent boost and i'm also using the thermal compound that's provided with the K8 silent boost.
this seems to be a problem with windows not reading the temp properly as reported by the bios.
i usually get temps that are idle 39-40C and load 49-51C. however, i'll boot up my systme and be greeted with 22C idle and about 26C under full load. upon feeling the heatsink i can tell you that it's definately not 22C or 26C.
when i boot my systme up for the first time in the early afternoon (i leave it off when i'm asleep and at school) i've gone into my bios and seen the temp reported at 43-45C, which is completely accurate. then when i boot into windows i get 22C. so i leave my system to run D2OL (a DC program) for 2 hours. then i'll reboot my system and go inot the bios to see my temp and it's reported as 48C, which is also relatively accurate.
so as i said before, it's a problem with the way that windows is reading the temp from the bios.
my processor is an Athlon64 2800+ S754
my motherboard is an MSI K8T800 neo-fsr
Standard problem of MSI board, K8T with temperature reading.
I have in full load 51 degrees. Change your CPU fan speed to manual, no termal cruise, example in Speed Fan, or setup to 2500 RPM and all be done, tepmerature is on 51 on full load.

Similar Messages

K8T Neo-FSR showing incorrect CPU temperature

Hello. I recently purchased a K8T Neo-FSR, which came with BIOS v2.2 installed. For some reason, it wouldn't allow me to set my own memory timings (it always used the "safe and sane" SPD values, according to CPU-Z, regardless of any BIOS settings I tried). I wasn't about to sit back and let my expensive new memory go underclocked, so following some advice I found on an obscure German forum, I installed the v7.1 BIOS from MSI's global site. That fixed the timing issue, but now the board is reporting incorrect temperatures for my CPU. It usually fluctuates between 23-26c, but will occasionally rise to nearly 30c and then immediately drop back down again. Case temperature remains stable at 27c. When I first installed the board, the temps were right around 45c, almost 20 degrees higher, which seems a lot more accurate to me (though this was also before I upgraded the crappy heatsink).
Is this anything to be concerned about, and is the CPU temperature supposed to constantly fluctuate like that? I'm worried that if my fan fails or something else goes wrong, the sytem won't react until the temperature is 20 degrees OVER the safe limit. I have a feeling it interferes with the Cool n' Quiet functions, too, though my CPU fan (Thermaltake Venus 7) has its own built-in sensor and adjusts itself automatically anyway.
Aside from the temperature wackiness, the system is rock-solid and runs like a dream. Specs are in my signature.

There are 754 Venice's out there as NewEgg sold them at one point from what I gather as I was looking at what was the best 754 but settled for the Clawhammer.
I have just stopped using CoreCentre on my XP as it started to show extremely erroneous and frightening temps so I ran MBM5 in conjunction as well as used my Cases thermal probes and guess which one was wrong...?
This was after seating and reseating the cooler, CPU, memory many times and it was only on Asetek's forums that reminded me that I should maybe do some independant tests by taping probes on the cpu's board as close to the core as poss, a difference of twenty degrees no less.
CoreCentre seems to have got a bit lost and a tad annoyed as I cross checked after buying the components for a 1/2" inch custom watercooling setup.
Now this is the current temp and voltages I get:
The 45 degree high was me using Prime to "cook" the thermal paste as I had to reseat the Artic Freezer 64 as it had dropped a touch.
My ClawHammer is for some reason one of those that never had a heatspreader which of course leads to difficulties with such coolers as the Freezer 64 Pro. Does anyone know where I can get another spreader or should I just leave it...?
I am not going to o/c this CPU to be honest, since sorting the temps out and once the watercooling is on, 3.2Ghz is plenty good for me for the moment and bearing in mind the Neo's touchyness about settings in BIOS I am very much considering now to roll back the BIOS to 1.9 as it was 2.2 that started causing the problems.
As for the memory timings, my Neo is totally ignoring any attempts to change the timings of my memory, I had to part company with my XMS Crucial sticks because the Neo had all sorts of problems and running some of the best memory at DDR200 was pointless.
AO

Where is board temperature probe seated on mobo K8T- Neo - FIS2R

hi All
I would like to know where board temp probe is seated on my mobo K8T - Neo FIS2R
MSI K8T-Neo FIS2R
AMD64 3400+ Clawhammer @ 2310 Mhz
NORTH Q Silent Ice II NQ-3100 With Ceramic fan bearing
Leadtek Winfast A400 256 Mb DDR3 G-Force 6800 GT @ 400/1100 Mhz
1 GB Cosair DDR RAM
NORTH Q King Kong Extreme 500 Watt
Aopen CD-RW 52-32-52
Maxtor 160 GB 8mb 7,2 Rpm
Maxtor 80 GB 8mb 7,2 Rpm
Maxtor 60 GB 8mb 7,2 Rpm

Somewhere close between the RAM and the Winbond chip as near as I can figure.

K8T Neo-FIS2R with Athlon 64 4000+ mobile CPU

Doing some research on the net, I found out recently that the older mobile CPUs differ from desktop ones just by the lack of a heat spreader on top of the core. And I read up about many successful updates from ppl using the mobile CPU on the desktop socket 754 boards. This is for my 2nd system listed in my sig below - the K8T Neo-FIS2R. I found a pretty good deal on the Newark CPU AMN4000BKX5BU recently (4000+). I took my existing 3000+ CPU out and I separated the heat-spreader from it. Underneath it's almost identical, except the core is a few mm larger than the mobile CPU. I mounted the heat spreader on the 4000+ CPU and made sure the core has good contact with the heat-spreader (checked the thermal paste imprint). Mounted the CPU in and the board powers on but doesn't POST. I then put my 3000+ in and works just fine. I repeated this 3 times, and just couldn't get the 4000+ to be recognized by the mobo. I thought the CPU may be bad, but it comes from a good source, so even though it's still a possibility, I started doing more research. And then I realized that I forgot to change the core voltage in BIOS from 1.5 to AUTO. The mobile CPU is rated for 1.35v. Do you think this is what affected it? Or is it because I'm on BIOS v.1.9 ? Latest BIOS is 7.1, but all versions passed 1.9 only introduced compatibility with Sempron CPUs (which I'm not using) and it limited DDR recognition to 333 only. I'm using DDR400 which is running well at 200MHz. All higher BIOS levels don't allow to run it in stock speed at higher than 166MHz. So that's why I wanted to keep the v.1.9.
Any ideas why the 4000+ CPU wouldn't be recognized by this board?
Thanks in advance!

I'm making some headway, but in effect, I temporarily hindered this system more than it was I got the CPU to finally work, but it only recognizes 1/4 of the memory I used to have... here are the details:
I upgraded BIOS to the latest 7.1 and the installed 4000+ CPU didn't allow the system to POST neither. I then cleared the CMOS and just for good measure removed 1 of my memory sticks (I had 2x1GB, as listed in my sig for the lower system). Then the old faithful came to life again After making more test I noticed that no matter what I do, whether I use DDR400 or DDR333 sticks (I also have those in 2x1GB), the only way it works is with a single stick in DIMM1. In manual, the configurations show that that memory can be inserted in different DIMM sockets, not necessarily the 1st one, but in my case, no other setup works than a single stick in DIMM1. As I mentioned earlier, BIOS versions above 1.9 (I checked them all in the past) don't allow DDR400 to run at 200MHz, but only at 166. Also, ver.7.1 reports CPU temperature incorrectly, about 10 degrees Celcius lower than it actually is. I actually noticed that in the past with my other CPU, too. Since nothing else could be accomplished here, I decided to go back to BIOS v.1.9. But the situation relating to RAM didn't change. It still only functions fine with a single stick in DIMM1.
I also tried resetting CMOS several times at different occasions, and when reset in ver.7.1 it would POST with 2 sticks of RAM in, but after loading BIOS settings, it would work fine (only as far as POSTs, because I never booted to OS during these tests) and would restart fine as long as it wasn't completely shut down. Once it was shut down, it wouldn't POST again.
In ver.7.1, the CPU was recognized by BIOS correctly as 4000+, however back at ver.1.9 BIOS recognizes it as 4200+ (something that doesn't exist for socket 754, AFAIK). However, the DDR400 is again working at 200MHz and the CPU core temp is reported correctly.
In ver.1.9 the CPU voltage when set to AUTO would run at about 0.9v, which might've been causing no POSTs until CMOS was reset. I manually lowered it to the minimal setting possible of 1.4v. It is rated at 1.35v and now is reported to run at 1.38v and still much cooler than my older desktop CPU 3000+. From what I read, AMD was doing binning on the mobile athlons, so I'm sure all of them can work fine even at 1.5v or higher, if needed.
Anyway, I temporarily gave up and decided to wait for some golden thoughts from you guys (or MSI Support, whom I also contacted about this, but it'll be a miracle if they respond with some help). Then I booted up into Windows, and even though CPU-Z recognizes the single stick of 1GB RAM I left there, Windows only reports it as 512MB. Also, CPU-Z reports the CPU in one spot as 4000+ and then in another (a little below) as 4200+. I guess the multiplier of x13 causes the confusion? Could that also be the reason for not recognizing more memory? I also tried lowering the HT Link in BIOS to 200 and 600MHz and that didn't help as far as allowing to use the 2nd stick of RAM. Please check the below screenshots for more details.
Thanks

My Unofficial K8t Neo Guide

Disclaimer: You try any and all troubleshooting at YOUR OWN RISK!!
Here is my unofficial guide to the K8t Neo fisr2 If you Like It give it a thumbs up so it will stick out. I will warn you it is long and I will edit off and on.
to add as needed.
first I'll start off with components,
CASE..you will need an atx case with good cooling a few extra fans like a blowhole at the top can help cooling, also bundle cables and power leads
so that they don't interfere with airflow.
MOTHERBOARD,...This is based on the K8TNEO series, when you attach it to your case make sure that is is mounted to risers to keep it from contacting case, they are usually small brass pins, also make sure that all the mounting screw are secure and in place, this will prevent the PCB from flexing and cracking as you install components, there should be around 9 or so screws, that usually go into the riser pins or raised case mounting points,don't forget to use those fiber or plastic insulated washers. These should be the only case contact point to the mobo other then the back plate with all the usb, net jacks etc..
Also use all of the mount points you can..if not you can crack mobo putting in cards etc...
CPU...Athlon64 processor2800+, 3000+, 3200+, or a 3400+, all 754 pin chips...k8neo CAN NOT USE FX chips or Opterons. 3200,&3000 are basically the same chip, same clockspeed of 2.0 ghz but the l2 cache is different 3200 1mb...3000 512k, you may not notice the difference in many applications but will see 2~10% diff in benchmark testing, the 3000 is usually about $75 cheaper
the 2800 is a newer model an a good way to get into 64bit without high cost.
PSU.... one of the most overlooked and most important component,
that old 300 watter you have from your old duron 800 don't even try.PSU's have caused a lot of trouble with a64 systems, they use a lot of power Get a good name brand psu if you can, and make sure it is at least 400 watts and has at the minimum of 20a on 12v, also look at combined total wattage
the psu must have a 20 pin connector and a 4 Pin( Square) Connector, and there is Only 1, Called the+12V 4 Pin Processor Connector.
some of the recommended brands are enermax,and antec.
Here is the reason most problems are the psu
amd64 uses 12v power, Intel chips used a lot of 5v power.
so until now most big psu's pushed 5 v not 12v
almost everything in your computer uses 12v except ram (3.3V)
AMD 64 and motherboard =12a @12V
so your already at 12A with no fan,s no hd, no CD,no DVD ,no mobo chip-set , no mem, no sound..etc
so what happens is your mem gets starved for power and then gives out errors,in your data, which = corrupt sata,or it fails to post. .
MEMMORY...Another big trouble spot,not just with the MSI board but with Via chip-set, and or the A64 memory controller.
DDR non ecc- single channel 400 is baseline although slower chips also work, The CPU's memory unit only supports 4 banks total so in order to use three sockets at least two of the memory sticks have to be 1 bank,.one bank or two bank chips look similar so check specs, dual bank chips usually have chips on the back as well. mem should match type and speed. if you run into problems try going into bios and limiting ram to 333.mem should match type and speed.
(edited out till i find more info [STRIKEOUT] if using two mem sticks it is best to use slots 1 and 3,[/STRIKEOUT])
edit :ok tiresmoke just replied so have a look. "One thing that often does not get addressed. I had a couple Blue Screens early on. Here is how I fixed it. I run my RAM in sockets 1 and 3. 1 and 2 gave a little instability.Yes I decided to keep mine in slot 1/3 but I did test in 1/2 since I changed Bios. Typically slot 1/3 can slow you down but it did not with mine so best to say that difference RAM will give different symptoms. Try combinations to find what works best for you."
LOL Keep in mind that Jocko uses 3 sticks of dual bank RAM and according to AMD they only support 4 banks total. Jocko has 6 so you do the math.
you can check msi's website for compatible ram, but be careful it can be confusing,
they list by part numbers,
but some known configurations that work are:
I would stay away from corsair xms mem right now many people have problems.
corsair and kingston owners may want to look here
AMD 3000+ systems...
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Corsair CMX DDR400 @2-3-2-5
2 x 512 - Corsair Twin Pro DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Corsair Value Select DDR400 @ defaults
1 x 512 - Geil Golden Dragon DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6 (2.7V)
2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingmax DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingston DDR400 @ 3-3-3-8
1 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
1 x 512 - Kingston ValueRam (KVR400X64C3A) DDR400? @ (Defaults?)
2 x 512 - Muskin Level 1 DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Muskin Level 2 DDR433 @ (defaults?)
2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
1 x 1024 - OCZ EL DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
BIOS 1.3b2
2 x 512 OCZ EL DDR433 @ 2-3-3-7
AMD 3200+ systems...
BIOS 1.1
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 1 Black DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Apacer DDR400 @ 3-4-4-8 (2.5v)
2 x 512 - Corsair Twin X DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
1 x 1024 - Corsair TwinX DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
2 x 512 - Crucial DDR400 @ defaults
2 x 512 - Elixer OEM DDR400 @ defaults
1 x 1024 - GeIL GoldenDragon DDR400? @ defaults
2 x 512 - Geil Value Series 512MB DDR 2.5-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX KX DDR433 @ 2-3-3-8
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5 (2.75V)
2 x 256 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5
2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2 x 512 - Twinx CLPRO DDR400 @ (defaults?)
2x512- Pny Verto DDR433 @defualts
AMD 3400+ systems...
BIOS 1.2
2 x 512 - Kingmax (MPXC22D-38KT3R) DDR400 @ defaults
2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 Black DDR433 @ 2-3-2-5
you may have to email you mem manufacturer and manually set timings and voltages to get your memory working.
HARD DRIVES......Here you have alot of choices, basically two categories, SATA and PATA(IDE). There are many brands and speeds, IDE drives come in different speeds, such as ata33, ata66, ata 100, ata 133 for hard drives, the 33,100,133, being theoretical maximum transfer rating MB/sec.
newer ata(IDE)hard drives are ata100 which is ultra 5, and ata133 ,ultra6 is ,
PIO mode is the standard data transfer mode without the ultra enhancements, the fastest being 16.66 mb/sec. ultra 2 is 33 mb/sec . So when i say my CD,DVD, and DVD are ultra 2 it means they transfer at a maximum of 33 mb/sec, and my Maxtor hardrives are ultra 6 and have a maximum transfer of133 mb/sec. my old zip100 transfers at a max of 16 mb/sec since its in pio mode. Note these are maximum speeds, my hardrive transfers more like 65 mb/sec sustained according to SIS Sandra.
That is why SATA 150 is such a big deal, vs say a Western digital ata100
SATA is a different interface all together and can transfers closer to its maximum
theoretical speed. BUT the pci bus itself is limited to 133 mb/sec so an add-on card
should never be able to reach over 133, regardless, of SCSI,IDE, or SATA
so on the k8t neo you have some choices. With the IDE you can use, IDE1,2, or 3
IDE1&2 are ata100. ) to attach use a 80pin round or flat cable, the first slot goes into the mobo, the middle connector is for a slave or should be left empty, use the end for master, or single drive. you must also setup jumpers for hd or cds.
The master is primary unit and the slave is secondary unit, for each channel.
Or use the Cable Select jumper and USUALLY the BIOS will select the drive for you.
IDE1 & 2 is ata100, or 133 depending on board if using for only 2 drives put them on different channels
...ie master on IDE 1, and master on IDE 2 . that way they will have maximum bandwidth. especially for disk to disk copies or burning
IDE3 RAID is ata133, or can be raid 0 or 1 by the promise chip. 0 being striped for performance,1 being mirrored for safety, mirror only protects hd from failure,not viruses,or corruption for that you need a backup or as i prefer a drive image program such as accronis trueimage..linux compatible.and Norton ghost.you will first have to enable the promise chip in the bios, then you have to load drivers by hitting F6 during windows installation, and insert floppy drive, yes you will need a floppy, at least for initial setup. If you want to set up raid you will have to do that first before loading windows,by hitting ctrl+F (read quick user's guide Serial ata raid, serial ata) only hd's can use ide3.If you don't have enough IDE slots you can add on pci card with one or two more headers for up to 4 more drives, I added a Maxtor ultra ata133, since i have 5 idehd's and 3 DVD/cds.
SATA, here you have two choices, use the Promise chip set or the Via. Either one or both can be set to raid0 or 1, see users guide to setup, You will also have to enable them first in bios, and F6 and load floppy drivers to use in windows install, or load drivers in windows if using an existing install. either chip-set can be set for raid, in the manual, opinions are that the Via is faster, but you wont have a HD LED activity indicator light, The promise will have a HD light, but is slightly slower.
Also note that SATAs don't OC as well as IDE hard drives, they can even crash and loose data.
always make a backup of your computer, and remember raid 1 does nothing for virus, or contaminated installs.
SOUND....Here you have a few choices, On board or Card, unfortunately not both, yet.(UPDATE Bios Version 1.5 and above will fix this)... If using a card there have been some issues with Audigy 1 cards, but there may be a cure in this threadhttps://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46849&sid=( Moved to stickies) audigy2 and 2zs cards work fine as do turtle beach.
on-board sound is not as high definition and uses some CPU cycles, so a card might be advantageous to gamers.
REALTEK GIGABIT...Is the on-board Ethernet, you will need to load drivers once in windows, it has caused some problems booting, as it can be set to a boot device as well. you will get a message "failed to boot press any key."..then "ntdlr error"...to fix this you may need to hit the key combination during boot to set it up, it will bring you to a menu, you need to set boot order, i recommend setting it to bios, and you can adjust or disable message and time length it is displayed.
VIDEO CARDS- You should install an agp 8x directx9 video card for best performance. Ati has better directx support so is better for gaming, but Nvida has better OpenGL so if you want to do 3d in Linux, you have better luck with Nvida.
When you set up windows, install via 4-1 drivers first, then the video drivers, check video manufacturer's website for updated drivers. make sure any extra power leads are plugged in. In bios Agp should be fast write enabled, and
if you are using 1024 of ram aperture size to 256, but check 3dmark to see which setting is faster.
BIOS- NO BIOS INSTALLED This is a message that you see during boot up from the promise on-board raid saying that it found no drives attached to its SATA or IDE channels so it's not installed the BIOS.This IS NOT a problem or anything to worry about!
jumping Bios reset jumper, be careful, make sure power is off. jump it and return it to the original position. If you power on with jumper in reset position you can erase your bios...requiring a Return to Manufacturer Authorization(RMA)
I have had no problems using windows updating to the latest bios ,It cured some issues, such as firewire ports, sound blaster audigy1 troubles,tweaked temps displayed,and so on. but be sure to have a backup of original bios disk. I have heard new 1.8 beta bios cures Newcastle temp problems.
some good settings are.. SMART enabled this will warn you of hard disk failure,System bios cacheble and shadow ram are more for older computers and should be set to disable.boot to os2- disable...memory setting vary by card and some even need to be set manually so check with manufacturer or get familiar with cmos reset jumper.(just be sure to have power off)...plug and play os to disable(more of a win 98 thing) disable serials and parallel ports if you don't need them, as with on-board sound firewire etc. this is just a few pointers the rest is a more personal thing, but i have heard turbo setting causes problems and is best left to fast, and dynamic oc'ing is similar use at your own risk
USB keyboard don't forget to enable USB in the BIOS. This caused some problems when installing XP. Without USB enabled in BIOS when you come to the "Hit any key to proceed" the install will fail with the ntldr error
POWER SAVINGS...Having trouble getting fans or case lights to shut off on standby set to S3, then disable apm, and be sure to set a wakeup event..such as wake from usb, or keyboard command. I have agp boot disable, but depends on card.
Want to know more about bios, and what those settings are? click this link
http://www.rojakpot.com/(eb1mg5zatgcf5r55lv5no155)/default.aspx?location=9
CORE CENTER....Another personal choice, I like it and use it a lot, to increase and decrease fsb without going through bios. the NB fan sensor should read 0 unless you plug a fan onto it, personally i have an 80mm antec and it doesn't read it, but i tried a old CPU fan and it worked fine.
COOL AND QUIET Another personal choice, I don't use it because some people have had there CPUs power down in the middle of games, and such
(it goes down to 800 MHz) others had small bugs in there system that went away when they disabled it. But some like it and use it a lot. Good for energy savings.
want to get your boot time down
start by selecting OS drive as first in boot sequence, you can always change bios when you want to boot from floppy or CD(which isn't often).disable floppy drive seek
then clean out your startup folder under rt click explore start button.
try and get services set to auto down to about 25. defrag your hdrive routinely,
. ditch wall paper, and get rid of windows startup screen.(msconfig,boot.ini.and check noguiboot). keep your drivers updated
if you can find it you can use then try bootvis, but microsoft doesn't support it anymore.Programs ..some useful free utilities are listed below, check goggle, until i make links for them.
SiS Sandrahttp://www.sisoftware.net/, a good all around benchmark,burn in and, info display
3DMARK.http://www.futuremark.com/download/.Mostly a Video tester, good for checking OC though.
Microsoft Memory testerms memtester
+86memtest.http://www.memtest86.com/..and Prime95http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htmvery good mem testers, and tests for stability
spybot search and destroy, http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=homeand
Lavasoft's ad-aware http://www.lavasoftusa.comgot to have for house cleaning.
atitool, http://atitool.ocfaq.com/oc ap for ati cards,click find max core let it go for 15min or so,then set back to default, and click find max mem...for 15min or so, and now you have the max you can set your video card too.(but set safety limits before manually setting)
[STRIKEOUT]mbm5 mbm5 link good alternative temp readings to corecenter.[/STRIKEOUT]
good program but discontinued.
OTHER USEFUL PROGRAMS
Norton utilities, good all around disk and OS utility
Norton Internet secuirity, or similar firewall and virus protector
Norton ghost, or other drive image software fantastic for backups
BF1942...lol just fun
HOME NETWORKING I will add this part because of additional posing of errors
dealing with USB Broadband routers...try using on board realtek or other Ethernet connection it will save your sanity.
well i have a real poor mans router setup for you
2 Ethernet slots, one for for broadband router and one to share.
if you only want one other computer, use a crossover cable, otherwise, use a hub or switch(better) and let Internet connection wizard and home networking on your machines work their magic,want a firewall download some software there are even, fairly decent free ones.the speed of the card isn't important because broadband still isn't over 10mb/sec yet, so blow the dust off that card in the closet and put it to work.or if your really brave or really cheap you can try to use the usb input from broadband, and on board ether, or firewire port, to link computers
Trouble shooting
for total no boot/post failure
I know you may know how to build a computer, and i know this is basic, so bear with me here, but at this point you have to do a methodical by the book check list.
revision
A: when you first install your motherboard make sure it does not contact case,
use all nine mounting points, make sure that your case either has built in risers, or use the small brass standoffs, and don't forget the fiber washers.
when you installed your CPU you:
1 ___you properly handle equipment so no static damage can occur, (properly grounded)
2____.you fully lift the CPU ziff socket arm up, orient the gold triangle marking arrow,pins and it easily dropped into socket, with no bent pins ,
3 ___ backer plate mounted carefully no missing pieces of the board flying off, ( i have seen people launch capacitors, and the like )
4 ____obviously you removed the plastic thermal pad cover, and heatsink was evenly locked down, and fully seated, and correctly plugged into mobo cpufan1.
and you fully removed old thermal pad/grease and applied new artic silver, or new heatsink with plastic on pad,you didn't reuse old paste or pad.
memory
5 _____memory stick(not sticks, at this point you just want to get it working, not full blast with a gig of ram etc)is fully seated and properly oriented in slot, and is 184 pin ddr non-registered , non ecc ram , and you have tried different non corsair, non twinmoss, brands that have been known to work. and/ or
tried to set manually mem speed/voltage for some models of corsair, twinmoss, and kingston)
6.____ plug in only power switch pins 6,8and power led to jfp1, pins 2,4 and they are turned correctly,
7. ____your new psu has the 20 pin and square 4 pin power connector plugged in to jpw1 turned right and fully seated. and has a bare min of 18a on 12v+ rail.
8 ____your video card is fully seated an locked down,also securely screwed in.
9 ____your floppy drive cable iss facing right way (pin1 is matched with red stripe)
10. ____you have ata cables for hd and CD set to master/slave or cs. with hard drive set as master, end of cable.
11 _____the power plugs are all fully seated, including psu rear plug,floppy ,hd, and CD.
12. _____keyboard(ps2) and mouse plugged in, monitor plugged into video card,
13 ______every thing is fully secured in case, side cover is off.
14 ______CMOS jumper is set 1,2 keep data, all usb stuff is unplugged, except for dbracket.
power it up, one beep, fans spin, in psu and CPU, and video card,
you get no bios found error,(promise adapter not finding satas..no worries)
or hit Del to go into bios, set boot order, and .......
.........your now at the end of the road, and it should by all means work,
now what i am after,
there are no bent pins, on CPU, you reapplied artic silver paste.
no loose wires,
properly applied heat sink with fan cooling,
you have tried different brands of known ,to work in an MSI k8tneo
ddr ram 1 stick at a tme.
you have tried different video cards, and in case of higher end card, the external molex power supply as plugged in,
you have tried different ata hard drives
you then have tried have set up your SATA drive correctly .
everything is securely plugged in ..fully seated and oriented the right way?
what are d-bracket error light, and any beep codes?
you have tried a different wall outlet, you have changed surge protectors,
you never hot plugged video cards, hd cables or power etc.
i know this redundant , and basic , it is not meant to be insulting , it is meant to be a checklist and rule out all basic errors and potential problems
if your mem bandwidth is slower then 3000..like 2400 this may help
Received from a user - Slow memory 1T Command fix
OK, here's what to do. Download the following ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcrs120.exe extract it, and run InstDD.exe. It'll ask to reboot, you don't need to do it right away, at least I didn't have to. Fire up WPCRSET.exe and do the following. Under startup, click on start, and under device, click enable. Now click add. The bus device and function will be 0,24, and 2. The register and data values will be the 93,08. There we have it! Enjoy everyone. I know I'm much happier now.
Here's a graphic to make it easier:
I will add more by edit, or post as needed but i should post now so it can be put to use.
I would like to Thank BAS,wonkaboy, Jocko, ethereal, Tiresmoke, Reilly, and the many others whose valued input helps solve problems.

Quote
amd 64=12a @12V
ati 9800=7.5~10.5a @12V (assuming 90~125 watts) a max load,
a 9600 ir nvida 5200 used far less power
so your already at 18a with no fan,s no hd, no cd,no dvd ,no mobo chipset , no mem, no sound..etc
If you exclude the motherboard, memory, etc like you did there, the amd 64 draws 7.2A @ 12V.
90~125W for an ATI 9800?! [irony]Are you working for a PSU manufacturer or what?[/irony] That's just absurd.
Go read this post to get a feel for the actual power consumption: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?postid=297061&sid=#post297061

MSI K8T NEO-FSR, reporting CPU @ 50c~ at bootup?

Hello, I just replaced my Asus K8V SE Deluxe with a K8T Neo-FSR because of some RAM issues with the Asus, RAM is sorted out fine now with the K8T, at first with the Asus, I was using the stock HSF with the stock thermal compound on it, when I transferred it over to the K8T, I put some Arctic Silver 5, when I booted up, it was reading the CPU (Idle) at around 50c, when before with the Asus I was getting around 36c readings, why is this? I reapplied the arctic silver 5 thinking that was the issue, but it is still the same..anyone know if this is a bug or what? I touch the heatsink, and it's not even WARM..
Btw, my CPU is a Athlon 64 3000+

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
Quote
Originally posted by jeri534
Yea, on MBM5, it's still around 45c on Idle, I guess the sensors are just off, right? Or should I get a replacement?
Depends on the ambient temperature, but that's what I typically get.
weird..how bout on load?
and btw, did you post at tournament.com before?

K8T NEO-FIS2R goes into suspend. Lose display.

First, here is my setup.
[list=a]
MB: K8T NEO-FIS2R
CPU: AMD 64 3200+ 1MB L2 Cache
CPU Fan: Thermaltake Venus 12
RAM: TWINX1024-3200LLPT (2x512Mb DDR400 - Corsair XMS Extreme - Cas Latency: 2-3-2-6 T1)
HD: 6Y120M0 - SATA Maxtor 120GB (plugged on SER1 not the one from Promise)
DVD-RW & Floppy
video card: ASUS nVIDIA GeForce FX5700 - 8X AGP - 256MB DDR - Core Speed 425MHz
Power Supply: Turbolink 350W - +3.3V/24A - +5V/35A - +12V/12A[/list=a]
And of course I have 5 case fans w/ led, the UV light, etc... etc...
Now here is my problem:
When I power up for the first time, my display is kind of crappy (some small lines etc...). I managed to get to the bios etc... after a while the system goes into suspend (Power LED blinking). Can't turn it back on unless I turn off/on the PSU.
When I switch my video card to a ATI Rage 128Mb (my old computer). The picture is good but the system still goes into suspend mode (Power LED blinking).
Also the other weird thing with my 256MB video card, when the system goes into suspend after that I bring it backup, my display is gone, when I switch to my 128MB video card and back to the 256 I get the display back.
I suspect that my PSU is too weak but instead of spending more money on this system I wanted to double check with you guys.
Also, before anybody asks me. Yes, I plugged in the 4-pin 12V connector into the MB.
TZ
EDITED: There was a typo on the +12V of the PSU The correct value is 12A as listed on the PSU. Sorry about that.

Jocko>
new PSU -> Enermax 550W (EG651P-VE(FMA), beautifull by the way, feel the power )
Yes 4 pin 12V for connector plugged in
Yes 3 pin power fan connected in pwr_fan connector
Yes still shutdown w/ green light laughing at me.......
No Thermal paste, using a thermal pad, new. Volcano heatsink/fan, running, have a dial on PCI mount place turned to max. According to bios fan running at 5300 rpm. According to bios, CPU temp is 96°F. Should I switch to thermal paste? (I don't really want to butter the CPU if I need to return it... who knows... will check tomorrow anyway...)
video card1: ASUS nVIDIA GeForce FX5700 - 8X AGP - 256MB DDR - Core Speed 425MHz
video card2: ATI Rage 128Mb (don't know model # or anything, I'm not at the office right now....)
video card1: no display when hard drive/DVD/floppy plugged in
video card2: display ok
both video cards have fans and they are both spinnin'
=====================================================
southmike>
[list=1]
ground myself and touch the case everytime.
yes, and removes easily and goes back in easily.
nope everything is cool, nothing got bent pushed or anything
all new came with the heatsink, but might switch to thermal paste now.... ndicator wire pluggin in cpufan1, fan speed crontroled by dial which is set at the max now.
the stix i have right now are corsair twinx. but I also tried with 1 stick kingston value pc2700(?)(DDR333)
didn't do only power switch & power led only, will do tomorrow and let you know.
yes
yes
pin 1 faces where it should (used floppy drive to flash bios already)
no, 1 DVD set as CS at the end of cable, 1 SATA Maxtor 120GB on SATA1 (the one that's not from promise)
yes
yes
no right now I took the MB out to exclude shorts
yes, tried also w/o the d-bracket[/list=1]
CPU is immaculate. will put thermal paste instead of the pad tomorrow (now, i'm starting to think that the thermal pad is not thick enough to contact the CPU and the heatsink, but geez, hard to believe... anyway, worth a try)
no loose wires
heatsink secure (actually I love this new system with the locking thing )
I think that the kingston value is used by other users, and the twinx corsair DDR400 is used also if settings changed in bios (which I tried also), but I don't think it would 'cause a shutdown though, specially if the computer does nothing but seat and be on.
Yes different video card, but my ASUS 256Mb doesn't have its own power supply, checked five times, and fan spins when mb powered up
No, right now hard drive and DVD drive are not plugged in until my system stays up (no need to fry them)
d-bracket lights: 4 green lights when booting on floppy (even when getting to looking for booting device)
Didn't try different wall outlet but used this one already to run several computers, should I try another one?
Nope never, before I put my fingers in, I turn off the computer, switch the PSU off, unplug the power cord from the PSU, and make sure to hear the little buzz sound when power unloads.

MacBook Pro (mid 2010, 15", i5) - heat, thermal paste and genius bar...

Hi all,
I'd like some advice. I own a mid 2010 core i5 15" MBP which I purchased when they were released (April 2010 or something like that). Since then the laptop has worked more or less OK but it's always been plagued with high temperatures, 75C+ in idle... with basically nothing running or something light such as just Safari (*without* Flash, as I only open Chrome when a website I need doesn't work without Flash; everywhere else, for example YouTube etc, I just use the HTML5 version of the players). The fans stay almost always at 6K rpm, and only rarely they run at a lower speed - when for example I switch the laptop on after having left it switched off for a while, etc. So the fans seem to work OK and seem to respond to the temperature; I have even tried resetting SMC several times, but no difference.
It just looks like the CPU runs hotter than it should. I have default energy saving settings, and don't have any software installed that may keep the CPU running high - such as Caffeine, SmartSleep, etc. Anyway, even a clean install of the OS (Lion) won't make any difference. If I leave the laptop switched off for a while and I switch it on again, within a minute or two the temperature is high again even if I don't open anything else. Even if in the activity monitor there's nothing using a lot of CPU. The temperature also does go further up if I run something CPU intensive such as Handbrake.
While the laptop has worked almost always OK (I do think that some freezes or other occasional stability issues may also depend on temperature), I don't think it's running as well as it could / should from a temperature point of view.
I have read lots of discussions in here and elsewhere, and from direct experience with other laptops (Apple and not) in the past, I believe the issue may likely be related to poor application of the thermal paste. I could re-apply it (for example the AS5 or similar) myself very easily, but I don't want to void the warranty.
I have the 3-years Apple Care, but I have never needed to ask Apple for support before, so I don't know how it works.
Sorry for the lengty introduction... here's the questions:
- Can I just go to the nearest Apple Store (London, Regent St.) or am I *required* to book an appointment with the "genius" bar?
- Is it likely they will take into consideration my advice to reapply the thermal paste as this is quite likely the source of the problem?
- What is the likelihood that they may just replace my laptop with a newer one?
- Does the AppleCare entitle me with some particular privileges for what concerns support?
- I have also upgraded the RAM to 8GB a few months ago, and replaced the HDD (which I use as external drive) with an SSD. Do I need to restore the original components in the laptop before going to the AppleStore? Or is this not needed since RAM and HDD are user-replaceable parts?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Vito

Hello V-MA!
I found this webpage: http://osx86.wikidot.com/known-issues#toc1
by googeling for "com.apple.NVDAResman"
Probably you have to remove the Geforce Grafic drivers as discribed here. But please wait until some others in the forum confirm this.
If you don't understand how to do these commands with Terminal, ask once again for help.
In your message you did not metion, that you just updated 1 hour and something your OS ("System uptime in nanoseconds: 6688834587150"). This is an important information.
marek

MBP and the Thermal Paste Discussions

I've read with interest the postings on this web site regarding the MBP heat issues and the possibility that too much thermal paste is causing that problem. I've spent quite a few years designing computer motherboards using Intel processor chips, and want to share some thoughts on the topic. I only mention my background because one thing this business has taught me is that we can all be easily mislead by our test data if our process for gathering the data isn't rigorous (and, believe me, I've learned that lesson many times).
First, the excess thermal paste is definitely a problem, regardless of whether it is the root cause of the heat issue. Some of the photos posted on the various web sites show thermal paste covering bypass capacitors on the chip carriers (the green fiberglass boards that carry the CPU and GPU die). Thermal pastes can cause stray capacitances that can interfere with circuit operation. Standard industry practice is to use only as much paste as is necessary to achieve a layer that is about as thin as a single layer of tissue paper (or less). The amount used by Apple is far too large, particularly because the paste in coming into contact with other electrical components and conductors. A common failure mode associated with degraded bypass capacitors is random (and unrepeatable) crashes due to corrupted digital data in the processor chip.
In addition, all thermal pastes contain various types of fluids. Over time, these fluids evaporate, and frequently they condense elsewhere inside a computer. When CD drives were first introduced years ago, a common cause of mid-lifetime failures was condensates on the optics of the laser. The condensation fogs the lens and interferes with the ability of the laser to focus while reading and writing data. The contamination was traced to outgassing by thermal pastes, greases, sulfurized elastomers, and similar items used to build the computer. (Note that the Apple service manual for the MBP refers to the thermal paste as “thermal grease”.) Consumer electronics manufacturers learned to minimize the use of such materials in computer designs. The amount of thermal paste shown in the Apple service manual is very large, and I wouldn't rule out that it might contribute to future DVD drive failures.
It is difficult to say, based on the available data, that reducing the amount of thermal paste actually contributes to improving the thermal behavior of the MBP. Part of the problem is that the procedure to remove the pastes involves disassembling the laptop, and this introduces the possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process is inadvertently fixing the problem.
First, the high case temperatures could be the result of loose or poorly placed thermal sensors. If the disassembly/reassembly process fixed a loose sensor, or loose sensor electrical connection, or placed the sensor in a better position, you would get lower case temperatures, and possibly (inadvertently) attribute this to less paste.
Second, the cooling system design in the MBP requires that the die caps on the chip carriers be pressed tightly against the pads on the heat sink, so that heat is transferred efficiently. If the MBP is not assembled properly, (i.e., if the logic board mounting screws are not properly torqued, or the logic board is not mechanically aligned properly to ensure a tight fit to the heat sink), it is possible that this will manifest itself as high case temperatures. In the Intel processor chips there are two paths for heat to travel – out of the die cap, and through the electrical contacts to the motherboard. If the die cap isn’t properly cooled, heat will instead go into the motherboard, and the case temperature will rise. There is a possibility that the disassembly/reassembly process will fix a loose or misaligned logic board problem, with the result that the case temp will be reduced.
Also, if you work through the details of the thermal model that results from excess paste, it's hard to see how it would result in more heat to the case and less to the heat sink. Most of the photos on the web appear to show thin paste on top of the die, indicating that there was probably a low thermal resistance path to the heat sink prior to disassembly. The excess paste to the sides will simply further reduce the thermal resistance between the chip carrier and the heat sink. I may be missing something, but it's hard to envision how this lower thermal resistivity between the CPU and the heat sink drives more heat into the case. But it is also possible that the disassembly process destroys evidence of the actual connection to the heat sink, so this failure mode is hard to judge.
The best way to determine if removing the excess paste is actually helping would be to measure the exhaust air temperature from the cooling fans before and after removing the excess paste. I haven't seen such data, but if it were taken, and showed that the exhaust air was at a significantly higher temperature after the fix than before it, then we would know that the fix worked. If not, then the heat is going elsewhere, and it is possible that fix has actually made things worse.
Finally, all the symptoms we're seeing can be explained by poor software calibration and/or incorrect software control of the CPU clock speed. I wouldn't rule out a software fix at his point.
I'm not saying removing the paste is not a fix, only that there are still open questions that remain to be answered. It would be hard for me to recommend that anyone rework an MBP for the thermal problem in the absence of additional data.
For myself, I own an MBP, and though I have access to an electronics lab and some great technicians, I intend to buy Applecare, and in the meantime wait for a fix (or at least more information) from Apple.
Best of luck to everyone who has this issue - thats what we get for being early adopters.
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)
G5 2.5 DP Mac OS X (10.4)

Well I replaced my thermal compound and the temperature on my cpu went down and the temperature of my case went down also. The fans also kick in sooner leaving me to believe that the heat is being properly distributed the heatsink whereas before it was not as there was too much thermal compound making it act like an insulator.
I cannot say if the exhaust air is any hotter, but I know overall my laptop is much more cooler and never gets extremely HOT. Even under heavy loads the areas where it used to get really hot, above f keys, palm area, underneath the MBP are not hot to the point where someone could burn themself at all.
I really do hope that Apple does address this issue because I could not live with the heat before, I always had to hook up an external keyboard because my hands got too sweaty from the palm rest and the keyboard. Now everything is operating like any other laptop I've owned and I am a very satisifed Apple user. Let's hope that Apple is really looking into it and will have a reasonable answers for all MBP users in a reasonable amount of time.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

[Athlon64] MSI K8T NEO-V : incompatibility with ATI RADEON 9800 PRO

Hi,
I read all the subjets on this forum about Radeon problems with MSI K8T NEO motherboard. Most of the peple can't use their graphic card in all situations.
My PC is :
-MSI K8T NEO-V
-AMD-64 3200
-Power : 400W
-ATI RADEON 9800 PRO
-1 Go DDRAM (2x512 in single channel)
-Hercules Digifires 7.1
I bought a new MSI K8T NEO-V with AMD 64.
The problem is that I can't use the computer in the games with AGP 8X even if I try to enable-disable all the options possibles in BIOS and Windows (fast write ...) : The computer freeze (screen disapear as if there was no video signal), reboot or return to Windows disabling the accelerated mode.
But in AGP 4X, all the game run without problem with all setups of BIOS !!!
I tried all the drivers (the new and the old drivers). Even if all are updated, it freeze.
There are no BIOS update for my motherboard. I saw that some people had BIOS update for compatibility with some Radeon cards ...
So, I don't know how to repair the problem because AGP 8X is AGP 8X and not 4X, and my Radeon run fine on other computer, and nothing say that Radeon 9800 pro don't run on this motherboard.
Does someone have the solution to make it work ? Does a new BIOS or driver update exist somewhere for Radeon cards ?

What Bas said about 30+ amps on the 12v rail does have merit. Even if you don't use it now there may come a time when you want to upgrade the system and certainly you won't want to buy yet another PSU then. A High end vid card now takes almost as much as the CPU to operate. Now days the 12v rail is the most important. Past systems regulated everything off the 5v railk and 12v was used mostly for powering drive motors. Now though the MB's use the 12v line to regulate all the voltages for the CPU, Chipset and other features as does the Vid cards. 3.3 volt lines are used for memory so we hardly use any 5v nowdays.
You have an older viod card and that does not eat much 12v but if you upgrade the most likely peice will be the vid card. You could go through this whole thing all over again if you are not careful to plan for that now with a new PSU purchase.
If the computer shop gives you a bunch of bull about power needs havbe them stop by the forum and we can help set them straight on this. There is more than enough data from MSI and historical data here that suggests that 16a on the 12v rail is certainly not enough. Hey I am not trying to sell you anything. I am just trying to help you get it right. The computer shop is the one trying to sell you something we just feel they are selling the wrong junk.

Can a bubble in thermal paste make CPU temp range 39ºC-60ºC?

Hello.
I've read the postits above and they say 45 ºC idle is very likely the heatsink spreader is not properly seated or the temperature is wrong.
But, what if idle temp is about 39 on the heatsink (meassured with a termometer) and the bios says CPU temp is 39? Does that mean I did well with thermal paste and heatsink? Does that mean the motherboard is reading the righ temperature?
It could look like I am asking a very easy question, but I feel it is not. Just go on reading.
I need to know if BIOS does actually provide the rigth temp because:
When the system heats up due to CPU under heavy load, CPU temp goes up to 50-55 ºC sometimes even close to 60 ºC. Could that mean there is an air bubble within the thermal paste but it is too small to interfere when cold enough (40ºC) but big enough when warm (50ºC) lowering heatsink performance and rising CPU temp up to 60 ºC?
Also sys temp is very high. It never gets below 50 ºC but I do not know where that sys temp is taken, and as I have the NB-fan connector conected to the power supply fan, I do not know what that sys temp means. :(
Room temp is around 25 ºC.
It does boot OS and I can actually play games (heavy load for graphics card and CPU). All readings I take were got from CoreCenter application at stock settings (Vcore 1.42 - FSB 201 - Mem volt 2.5 - AGP volt 1.5).
I am afraid of having done a nice job with thermal paste. I know (just read it here) I could easily fry the CPU if not, and I feel 55-60 ºC is too much, isn't it? Of course if BIOS readings are right.
BTW. Here follow details on the system:
CPU: AMD 64 3000+ NewCastle
CPU Family/Model/Step: 15.12.0
Thermal compound: Artic Silver 5
CPU Heatsink: Thermaltake Silent Boost K
Motherboard: MSI K8N Platinum
Motherboard BIOS: 1.4 (08/26/2004)
Graphics Card: Sapphire ATI Radeon 9800 SE AIW (not modded in any way)
Power Supply: Enermax 465 W [EG-465AX-VE(W)FMA]
Case: Lian Li PC-V1000
Mem, hdd, dvd-rw, floppy and D-bracket are present but did not feel necesary to provide details on them.
Thanks

Well, if your heatsink is cold and your CPU temp on BIOS is hot there are two possible reassons:
[list=1]
BIOS 1.4 does not guarantee accurate CPU temp readings
Heatsink is not properly seated on the CPU or thermal paste has bubbles within[/list=1]
But that is not my situation. I do know CPU readings are accurate when it shows 39 ºC because I actually used a termometer in contact with the heatsink to meassure it.
What I am not sure is if that accuracy is so when the CPU is hot (>50ºC) as it is when cold (

[K8T neo 754] S-ATA Smart under XP64

Hello,
I have a MSI K8T NEO FISR2 socket 754 mobo with a maxtor dm10 s-ata drive on the VIA controller. The OS is Windows XP x64.
When I try to read out the SMART values of my harddrive, i cannot see these with a couple of progs (speedfan, everest). I also cant see the temperature of the drive.
I already installed the latest driver for my VIA s-ata controller.
As I can remember under XP32 it was possible to read these values (not 100% sure).
Does anyone know there is a possibility to read out the smart values and drive temp under x64?

hmz But i can remember when i had just bought this disk, i plugged it in on my winxp32 install on my old p-ata disk and speedfan detected a new harddisk. That's why i'm a little confused that it could be a win xp x64 problem.
Or can all other people with this mainboard also not read out the smart values on any OS?

K8t neo fis2r - core center not functional after installing sound card

Hi. I had been using Core Center with Dynamic Overclocking enabled and all was well. When idle, my amd64 3000+ (2.0ghz), was running at 800mhz. Under load it would go up to 2100mhz. But yesterday, I installed an Auzentech x-plosion sound card and after i installed the driver, the dynamic overclocking stopped working, my cpu is running at max all the time. (The variable fan speed function still works).
I checked the IRQ and there is no conflict, I uninstalled the amd64 driver and core center and reinstalled. Still does not work. I uninstalled the auzentech driver, rebooted, and cancelled new hardware wizard. Then the variable cpu frequency feature worked. Once I install the driver for the auzentech, dynamic oc stops working. I was thinking to try another pci slot but it appears to be a software issue rather than a hardware issue. The new version of Core Center does not work with my board even though msi says it's compatible so I'm still using the one that always worked. The amd driver is the latest and also always worked.
Has anyone else had a similar problem, perhaps using the auzentech sound card with this board and Core Center? Or does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
K8T Neo FIS2R
AMD64 3200
AMI bios version 2.2
1.5Gb pc3200 memory
nvidia quadro FX 1100 128mb AGP
Antec 430W ps

Hey guys, I just went to AMDs site to get the dashboard utility mentioned and in the readme, it stated that in XP, the power option needs to be set to portable/laptop. But in the past, I read that it needed to be set to "always on" and that it is, in fact, what I had it set to before when cool n quiet was working. Now I change it to "portable/laptop" and it works and set to "always on" doesn't work anymore. So now Core Center reports I'm at 33c @800mhz at no load. I don't get it??? I'll have to try an alternate utility just to verify that is indeed working.
btw, QV, I checked system properties, (right-click my computer > properties, or "system" in control panel) and on the "general" tab, it indicates an AMD64 3000+, 2.0GHz. But I'm pretty certain the clock frequency is dropping now as reported by core center because of the decrease in the cpu temp at idle. Am I looking in the right place in XP? I have XP pro, SP2
Again, thanks for the input and Happy New Year

K8T Neo: Problem at power-on...

Hello!
Somehow I experience a strange startup-problem ... and I could really need some advice to resolve this issue as I'm out of ideas.
Last weekend I completely disassembled my rig for the annual "spring-time maintenance". I cleaned out dust, I cleaned the inside and outside of the case and I replaced my DVD-ROM and CD-RW drive with a LG DVD+/-R(W)/RAM drive. After everything was put together again I powered up my system - and it started to act strange.
Symptom: At power-on the system hangs at "Early Chipset Init" (D-Bracket 1-4: GRRR) and keeps on self-resetting. Several seconds (10-30) later the system starts to POST as expected and runs smoothly until ... power down.
During the night the system is completely disconnected from the power as it drains a lot of juice in stand-by (~12W for the rig + ~18W for several other external components like scanner, audio, ...).
What I've done so far to track down the error:
- Reseated power connectors. Nope - problem persists.
- Pulled all unnecessary components (just MoBo, CPU, RAM, GFX-card, Keyb). Nope - same prob.
- Pulled all memory sticks, left only one in the slot (and tried every other one). Nope - same prob.
- Cleared CMOS - Nope - same prob.
- Ran memtest86+. Showed no errors after 10+ passes.
Now I'm out of ideas ... except for the power-on problem the system runs just fine as before. No crashes, no malfunctions, no nothing.
Technical Data:
MSI K8T Neo FSR (BIOS 2.0)
AMD Athlon 64 3000+ (Clawhammer Core)
Zalman CNPS7000B CPU-Cooler
3x 512MB Kingston CL2.5 PC400 DDR-RAM (@DDR333 - 3 sticks = DDR333 only!)
NVIDIA GeForce 6600GT AGP (Power Connector is plugged in)
Highpoint HPT370A IDE Controller (PCI 3)
Hauppauge WinTV PCI FM (PCI 5)
Seagate 80GB SATA - Operating system
Hitachi 160GB - OnBoard Pri IDE, Master
LG 4167B - OnBoard Pri IDE, Slave
Maxtor 200GB - HPT370A Pri IDE, Master
Seagate 400GB - HPT370A Pri IDE, Slave
Maxtor 80GB - HPT370A, Sec IDE, Master
Tagan TG480-U01 480W PSU (3.3V@28A, 5V@48A, 12V@28A)
As I have a Wattmeter at my avail: After power-on and boot-up the system "sucks" ~315W (rig + monitor). If I put load on the system (CPU at full clock, GeForce displaying 3D) it drains ~390W.
As mentioned above I never had any issues with the system.
Does anyone have a suggestion how to resolve the rather annoying power-on problem ?!?
Thanks,
Jochen

Quote from: Tiresmoke on 06-April-06, 20:09:53
Did you checl and replace the CMos Battery? You may need to do a complete Bios Clear and start fresh there as well.
Also as the Optical drives changed did you try removing them one at a time and see if the system acts noirmally then?
Hello, Tiresmoke!
. I unplugged the PSU from the wall socket and removed the battery while clearing the CMOS. The CMOS Battery is OK - ~3.34V (reading from a Voltmeter - matches with the display at PC Health Status).
. I already took out the LG DVD-RAM drive and put the old optical drives back in. Even in its old "original" configuration the aforementioned problem persists.
. I already reseated the CPU and renewed the thermal compound.
However, I even get the "Early chipset" startup when the system is bareboned ... CPU + 1 memstick (doesn't matter which one out of the three I plug in) + Keyb + GFX. D-Bracket shows "Early Chipset Init", the boards goes through several reset-loops and fires up fine.
BTW: Maybe this will give some clue ...
. When I do a warm reset (reboot triggered by OS) the board restarts fine - Reset, POST, Boot.
. When I shutdown and disconnect power from the PSU, lets say for about 5 minutes, then reconnect it and power-on the "Early chipset init" shows up.
Are there any chances that the PSU is actually causing the problem although this particular problem never showed up before the "spring-cleaning"?
Thanks,
Jochen

K8T Neo - Thermal Paste - Temperature

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