MacBook won't fully boot and shows caution icon ??

I have just applied some updates to my MacBook air from the Apple support site. Now my MacBook air boots with a caution icon showing briefly and then you shuts down. This booting process cycles three times and then my MacBook air shuts down for good.
If there is anyone who knows how I can resolve this issue or remove the updates I have applied to an original instance it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance

You should probably take it in to an apple store.

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Usually means that critical system files are corrupted. Start by:
Boot into Safe Mode if possible. If it boots into safe mode, then restart the computer to see if it will boot normally. Otherwise, reinstall OS X. Unfortunately, you've not provided any information in your profile about what version of OS X you have installed.

I did force shutdown on my MacBook Pro (2006 year, 15.4"), so, when I tried to boot, it shows apple logo (as usual) and shuts down. When I booting MacBook with Option key pressed it shows lock icon and field for password. Please help me.

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Wait for advice on repairing a damaged filesystem. Forceshutdown stops processs in mid-stream and leaves some parts not-valid.
Do not proceed until you get that avice.

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Have you tried a reset first? If it works, you won't have to go through the restore process.
Hold down the sleep (upper right hand top) and the home button at the same time. A slider will appear. Ignore it and keep holding down the buttons. The Apple logo shoud appear. Then your ipad might work again. It takes a good 15 seconds. You will not lose anything on your ipad.
If you try it a couple of times and it doesn't work, you might have to go through the restore process as has been suggested above. But follow the steps so you don't lose your data.
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Hi guys i have an ipad 1 and when i plug it in to my macbook pro picasa opens up and show its name but when i open itunes i cant find the name, ive been working my head out to solve the problem please help me:(

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Pay no attention to iinami, the amount of replies to people saying their handsets must have been jailbroken everytime iTunes throws out an error is tremendous. (Clearly you don't need to have any real knowledge to get to level 3 on these forums, let's hope apple's geniuses know a lot more than some of their customers.)
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3694
Solution below.
Error 9
This error occurs when the device unexpectedly loses its USB connection with iTunes. This can occur if the device is manually disconnected during the restore process. This issue can be resolved by performing USB troubleshooting, using a different USB dock-connector cable, trying another USB port, restoring on another computer, or by eliminating conflicts from third-party security software.

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MY PHONE IS HANGED AND SHOWING APPLE ICON.FROM THAT NO MOVEMENT IN PHONE

Read this:
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Macbook 2.4 2008 after update 10.6.8 and firmware, won't fully boot

Weird problem after updating to 10.6.8 from 10.6.0 (fresh install).
I went thru Software Update, it downloaded 10.6.8 and the other updates. It also found that I needed a Firmware Update, which I also choose to install.
The updates went thru okay, including the Firmware. Everything went exactly as it should. The machine booted as per normal.
Afterwards, I checked that it had updated normally to 10.6.8 and everything checked out okay.
I left the Macbook plugged in and in Sleep. It was like this for probably 24 hours. NO BATTERY INSTALLED (don't know if this could be a problem, but I don't see how). I just came back now to find that I can't get back to the desktop from Sleep, nor can I boot to the desktop.
Specifically, here's what I see:
- first, on trying to Wake from Sleep, the screen remained black. The Superdrive spun up, the white light at the front of the Macbook was pulsing. But no desktop.
- I then held the Power button till it shut down. Then rebooted. And here's what I got:
a) no startup chime
b) I could Superdrive and fans and HD spin up
c) the display turned on, but didn't show the startup screen, no Apple logo, etc. It just went to the Desktop in about 10-15 seconds.
d) on the Desktop I can see:
- the Desktop background
- the Disk Utility window open to Repair Permissions, which was the last thing I'd done on the Macbook (permissions checked out okay)
- and THIS: I've never seen it before, but the Desktop is a bit "fuzzy", I can see the background and the Disk Utility window though, as well as a NUMBER OF SHORT BARS towards the bottom of the screen, and there's a BAR BY BAR PROGRESS from left to right (the first bar is filled in, then the second, etc.), BUT the progress DOESN'T make it to the last bar before the SCREEN GOES BLACK AGAIN (*sorry for the caps, but I'm trying to highlight the salient parts).
Any ideas?
Is this somehow related to the Firmware update? I remember that the Macbook booted fine after the Firmware update, the long horizontal progress bar was filled in as normal and got to the end; IIRC the Macbook then booted fine. I believe it was at this point that I repaired Permissions. Then left the Macbook, only to return to find it as it is now.
Any help much appreciated.

Update:
Installed 10.6 and did all the updates, am now using it with an external monitor. Working fine as a Mini, but a real bummer re. the black or blue screen.
Without external monitor connected, I get this:
- I can boot, with startup chime, from DVD or external hard disk, after holding Option at startup and choosing bootable volume on screen; I can also boot from the DVD by holding down C key
- When I boot, the startup chime doesn't sound right away, as there's a short delay; in that time (a few seconds), the LED light at the front of the Macbook FLASHES 5 TIMES; there are NO error beep sounds
- The boot screen starts up, I get Apple logo and spinning wheel, and at about the usual point where the screen goes blue for a couple seconds, before the Macbook boots to the desktop, the screen goes black
- The Macbook seems to go to Sleep, with the screen black; the front light pulses
- I can wake the Macbook from Sleep by pressing a key
- Previously, after waking from Sleep, the Macbook went to the desktop -> in other words, the Macbook completed startup with the black screen;
- When the Macbook woke from Sleep, there was a slight delay of a few seconds before the Trackpad and Keyboard became active; I then had a few seconds to use the Trackpad before the screen went black again, and the Macbook went back to Sleep
- Now, though, when I wake it from Sleep, I get a Blue Screen, and the screen stays blue; i.e., doesn't turn black and the Macbook doesn't sleep
All of this refers to booting the Macbook without an external monitor connected.
When booting with an external monitor, everything works normally.
POINTS OF PARTICULAR INTEREST:
1) all of this happened from the time I updated the Firmware, as per Software Update
2) the screen works during the boot process, then goes black
3) boot completes even with black screen
4) the screen works for a 10 seconds when Macbook wakes from Sleep, then goes black again
5) now, the screen goes blue - and stays there - when the Macbook wakes from Sleep
6) Macbook works normally with external monitor; the Macbook's internal display is not recognized when an external monitor is connected; the iSight camera is not recognized
So, what the heck happened?
I can understand the internal display and/or onboard video getting broken, but then it should simply not work at all, right? How is it that it works "partially" or "temporarily", during boot and when waking from Sleep, before going black?
What is with the 5 flashing LEDs at boot or when waking from Sleep? (I can't find any info concerning the Macbook and 5 flashing LEDs, but only concerning the Macbook Air, and it refers to a battery problem).

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The MacBook cannot find a startup disk...could be a corrupted hard drive or failed hard drive. If you have the install disk for your Mac OS X, you show 10.5.8, try booting holding the C key so you startup on the installation disk. If that works, use disk utility to see if you can do a repair of the internal hard drive and fix system files that are bad, or even do a reinstall so you cleanup bad files.
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Repairing laptops that won't boot and show the blinking caps

Here's a little tutorial for all of you who have this annoying issue. It mostly applies to the 1 blink code (other codes have much simpler and straightforward solutions).
Ok, so the code says that it's caused because of a not functional CPU. That is most likely not the case. Most people who had the 1 blink code actually had a problem with the integrated video graphics card or northbridge of their laptops, not the CPU (in fact, CPU failures are quite uncommon). The problem is that these chips overheat quite often, they don't have good cooling and dissipation systems (most of the time, it is shared with the CPU which is absolutely insane), and the solder connections are of very bad quality. So with overheating, solder points start fracturing or cracking and they stop making contact, which causes all these issues, including the infamous RRoD and YLoD issues in the Xbox and Playstation consoles with their soldered video chips.
So there are two main ways of dealing with this:
1 - Reflow
This is a short-term but easy solution that simply consists of reheating the damaged component to the point of getting rid of said fractures. It has a high success rate, as many people will tell you. It worked for me always, but again, after some time the issue may come back. Still, this is a very simple solution that doesn't require too much skill or equipment and is satisfying enough for most users. This is what I'm going to show how to do in this tutorial.
2 - Reball
Reflowing doesn't always work, and when it does, it doesn't last long. Instead, reballing is a permanent solution which consists of removing the chip in its entirety and replacing all the solder contacts. Reballing requires specific equipment (a reball station), reballing stencils and leaded solder balls. It is a long procedure, which requires some skill and it only should be performed by experienced people. When a reflow won't work, you are better off sending your laptop to a reballing technician, or buying a new one (which would be a waste, in my opinion).
Ok, so how can we do a reflow? There are many ways to do this:
1) Reheating your laptop: This is a simple as it sounds. Some people call it the "blanket" method, because you can just simply turn on your laptop, wrap it with a blanket or sweater and let it run until it shuts down because of overheating. I absolutely don't recommend doing this, as there are probably many working components (particularly the hard drive holding your data) that won't benefit from the overheating. I recommend disassembling the laptop and taking out all the good parts, like the hard drive, RAM sticks and any extra PCI-e cards installed. After that you can just simply unplug the cooling fan connector from the board then turn the laptop on. This will cause it to overheat faster, so you won't have to waste hours waiting for it to get hot (using the blanket method, it can take a lot of time). Most laptops will shutdown themselves after reaching a certain threshold temperature, if yours doesn't, well, just keep an eye on it so you can turn it off before it catches fire. After it turns off, let it rest and cool for at least an hour, then connect the cooling fan again, turn the laptop on and see if it boots. If it doesn't, well, you can keep trying this until it does (not recommended after 3 tries or so), or try the next methods.
2) The oven method: This a bit tricky, but it may be more successful in some cases. First, strip down your computer until you get to the bare board holding the video chip. Remove the CPU, heatsink & fan, RAM, BIOS battery, wires, speakers, stickers, plastic sticky guards, foam spacers, absolutely everything that can be removed from the motherboard. Then preheat your household oven to approximately 200°C or 385°F. If your oven does not have a digital temperature display, perhaps use an internal oven thermometer to make sure the oven is in the right temperature range. Roll up some kitchen foil into balls, between half an inch and an inch wide, and place them on a baking tray. Place your motherboard, with CPU socket and GPU facing upwards, on top of the foil balls. It is a good idea to wrap additional foil around the more sensitive parts of the motherboard, like areas where there are capacitors and the CPU socket.
Try to wrap the rest of the motherboard in foil to protect it, leaving just the GPU exposed on both the top and bottom of the motherboard. Then place the baking tray with the laptop motherboard on it into the preheated oven.
Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated at this stage, turn on the extractor fan to full power and/or open an outside door and windows. This will help to take away any fumes. Ideally, you should leave the kitchen while any fumes are still present. A couple of times during the procedure, have a quick look through the oven door (without opening it) making sure there are no smoke or flames visible. This is unlikely to occur, but can happen if stickers were left on the motherboard. After 8 minutes, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Do not remove the motherboard from the oven at this stage, it could be very hot and it is a better idea to allow it to cool down gradually. Take care not to inhale any fumes that might be present. After 20 minutes to half an hour, remove the cool motherboard from the oven and begin rebuilding your laptop. If all has gone well, it will boot up and the problem will be fixed. If the problem remains, you could try the procedure again, leaving it in the oven for a couple of minutes longer.
After performing a reflow in an oven, I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly, then turn it on and allow any fumes that may have built up to be completely removed. This is especially important before cooking food in the oven again.
3) The heat gun method: Probably the best way to do a reflow, it is less destructive than the previous method (as you can focus on a single place, rather than overheating the entire board), but it may be worse than the first. The first step is to test out how well your heat gun will melt the solder. Place a chunk of solder on a coin, hold the heat gun one inch above it and record how long it takes the solder to flow. Once you have the timing right, mask off the motherboard (already removed from the case) so that just the chip in question is accessible. Reflow with the same spacing and timing as you did during the coin test.
Did it work?
If your laptop works now, then you can do a couple of extra things to avoid this problem in the future:
Avoid overheating by underclocking the CPU: You can run your laptop's CPU at a lower clock speed (it will run slower, BUT not as much as you think. Undercloking by a 50% doesn't mean your laptop will perform 50% slower). It not only protects your laptop from damaging over time, it has the added benefits of making it run *much* cooler and quieter and also having longer battery life, which is awesome as well. To do this, simply (in Windows 7 and up) click the battery icon in your notification area, select More power options, then change the selected plan (like Balanced) settings (click on Change plan settings), select Change advanced power settings, scroll down and, under Processor power management, Maximum processor state, type on both 'On Battery' and 'Plugged in' a value less than 50%. Change Minimum processor state to 1% and then System cooling policy to Active.
Avoid playing heavy games and running intensive applications: Such programs very often cause the underpowered integrated graphics card and CPU to overheat, which causes all these issues. Use a desktop machine with dedicated graphics for such programs if you want your laptop to last.
Again, always take out the hard drive before any of these procedures if you don't wanna lose any data, and if you can, any other components that can get damaged in the way. Note that a reflow, particularly the oven or heat gun methods are usually last-ditch resorts because they can permanently damage your computer, in particular if performed incorrectly. DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I can't be held responsible for any accidents or unwanted results that may occur after following this tutorial. If you have doubts, then you're generally better off sending your laptop to professional technicians than trying to repair these kind of issues by yourself. Unless a repair costs more than replacing your laptop, that is.
And before starting any of these procedures, try to research your issue on the Internet as much as you can. Search for your particular model, search in this exact same forum and any other as you'll be able to read about people experiencing this problem. You can search reflow on your favorite search engine and you'll find detailed tutorials and many videos which will show the procedure and help you do a better repair. Once you're very comfortable and knowledgeable with the subject, you can go ahead with the repair.

This is actually good stuff and well written but I hesitate to advise people to use either the "oven trick" or really even the heat gun method as both are notriously short-lived even if they appear effective. Your far better bet is to send the board in to one of the vendors on the internet who are set up to do a proper reball. Even those fixes are good for maybe 12-18 mos. But again, you get a high grade for spelling it out.

MacBook Pro 13 2010 running Mountain Lion: will not boot and shows a folder with a flashing question mark. Will not start in 'safe mode' i.e holding shift on start up - nor can I call up any utilities with the OSX shortcuts. Any thoughts?

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Won't boot and shows flashing file folder with ?

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MacBook won't fully boot and shows caution icon ??

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