Major fibre cable break causes routing woes

http://www.ispreview.co.uk/index.php/2012/08/major-fibre-cable-break-causes-broadband-routing-woes-f...

hi it would not affect a local DLM issue as it was a UK to Europe main fibre link that went down and was out side the BT network and also affected adsl services and access to web sites over a very wide area of Europe and many ISP's
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How do I set up Airport Extreme with cable modem and router?

Hi--
I'm having a house built and all of the wiring for TV, phone, and internet will be centralized in a closet. The cable modem can be placed there as well. In one room in the basement I want to use my Airport Extreme for my iMac and USB external hard drives. In another location of the basement, I'd like to set up a Time Capsule for another desktop and USB printer. If the cat5e comes out of the wall at each location, I "think" I need a router at the closet location. I also thought I might need an Airport Express upstairs on first or second floor to boost signal for my laptop. The house isn't that big so maybe that's overkill. So beyond the router question, do I want to set up a roaming network and have the Airport Express connected via ethernet or just wireless if the thought is that I need this? Finally, if I should connect cable modem to router to Airport Extreme, Time Capsule, etc., in what order and ports does the equipment get connected? Many thanks!!

Welcome to the discussions, Forum Girl!
It would be best to position the cable modem and main router in the central location like the closet if possible. The other devices would connect via ethernet to the wall jacks in each room.
If you could setup a "roaming" wireless network as you mention, this will give you better wireless performance and coverage. This is the way commercial establishments like airports, businesses, etc. are configured for wireless.
The order of connection would go something like this: ethernet connection > cable modem >main router>devices. Devices could be computers, routers, a backup device, etc. Since the Extreme has only 3 LAN ports for ethernet connections, you will also need to plan to install an "ethernet switch" near the location of the main router to provide enough ethernet jacks. If you are planning to use DirectTV, etc or your audio/video devices require ethernet connections (most new products do for updates and extra features), be sure to plan for that as well.
Make sure that CAT5e or CAT6 wiring is run so you will be able to take advantage of faster gigabit speeds.
Finally, it would be a good idea to work with an IT specialist to go over your plans to make sure all the bases are covered. This would be money well spent.

Comcast just replaced my cable modem/wireless router. All devices connect properly except my iPhone 4. It shows itself to be connected to the network, but it does not load any web page. Resetting the iPhone does not solve the problem. Any suggestions?

Comcast just replaced my cable modem/wireless router. All devices connect properly except my iPhone 4. It shows itself to be connected to the network, but it does not load any web page. Resetting the iPhone does not solve the problem. Any suggestions?

Thank you for your response.
I had rebooted the router (several times, actually), to no avail.
I do not know the answer to whether MAC filtering is enabled on the router. Have tried to find info about that, but unsuccessfully. Router is an Arris TG852G, supplied by Comcast. I would be surprised if MAC filtering were the issue, since in addition to the computer, we have successfully connected several other devices to the wifi, namely an iPad, a Android phone and a Kindle Fire - all able to access internet pages through the wifi, and all without a need to add the device to a MAC address whitelist. To add to the mystery, the Comcast tech was able to connect his iPhone 4 to my network and access web pages. He was unable to connect my iPhone, however, after trying for some time.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that an iPhone cannot connect to a wireless "n" router, only "b" or "g". The Arris router is described as a n/g/b compliant router, and as noted the Comcast tech was able to connect his iPhone, so don't know why that would be the issue here.
By the way, my iPhone does connect wirelessly to my network at home. This difficulty is at a second home.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Does Time Capsule receive Wifi signal? or it must via connected via cable to a router?

Hi everyone,
I would like to know if the new Time Capsule 2TB receives wifi signal or if it must be connected via a cable to our router.
Thank you so much,
Regards

The recommended connection method would be to connect to your modem or router as Apple illustrates in the Time Capsule Setup Guide
However, if you already have another Apple router providing a wireless network, the Time Capsule can connect using wireless, and also "extend" the wireless signal from the main Apple router.

Can 2 computers each have a separate ethernet cable to a router?

I have a desktop (an iMac G5) now connected via ethernet cable to a router. I also have an iBook which I want to connect to the router via another ethernet cable (to the 2nd LAN port). (I'll set up a wireless connection later; there's a slight complication w/ the router configuration). Is it possible to do this? The router itself is connected to a broadband cable modem.

Yes a router is designed to allow multiple Ethernet devices connect to one Ethernet source. Just plug them into separate LAN ports on the router.

Wireless B router woes after firmware upgrade

I downloaded and installed the firmware upgrade for my wireless B ver.4 router and now it's not transmitting a wireless signal. Computers plugged into the wireless router get internet connection, but it doesn't seem that the the router is broadcasting wireless. I tried to go to my routers set-up by using the default router IP...but it won't connect...any thoughts?

Since you have upgraded the firmware on your Router, You need to Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...

Groups on CSS11150 causes routing to break

I have a CSS setup using 4 interfaces. Interface E1 is connected to our public firewall. This is where the VIP's are for inbound load balancing. E2 is a Vlan with some FTP servers. E5 is a Vlan with some Web servers. E3 is connected to another firewall going to another company using VPN. I have Services setup for FTP, Content rules setup for FTP and Groups setup for FTP and all of this works fine. I need to be able connect from the outside company to the servers in E2 from E3. I can ping from the servers in E2 to servers connected at the other company beyond E3 but I cannot ping from the servers in the other company to servers in E2. If I suspent the Group rule then all works fine but I need the Group for FTP to function properly.

you can use an ACL to apply the group only for FTP traffic.
What you have to do is remove the services from the group config and then use an acl with the option 'sourcegroup ....' to specify when to nat the traffic.
Regards,
Gilles.

HDMI cable and wireless router for bluray

Hi. We just purchased a Samsung Blu-ray player, model BD-C 6500. We want to connect it to our 46" samsung LED TV and stream movies from Netflix. I
was wondering which HDMI cable would be best to use to connect it? We also havea Netgear Rangemax router WPN824 v 2. Will it work or will we need
to get a different one?

Quote That information is not 100% accurate. Although the "Hz" of the cable may not change, not every HDMI can support 'ethernet' passthrough or 3D capabilities. - - - - - But not every TV supports it either. Even cheap cables like those from Blue Jeans cable can and do support ethernet passthrough. I am not sure that 3D capabilities has anything at all to do with the cable. It certainly does not require greater bandwidth or greater overhead, or it cannot be broadcast on a single channel. Also, cheaper cables will have cheaper materials which means the tips can break more often. - - - -- - - Completely irrelevant. With proper care, cheaper cables will not have a higher incidence of "broken tips". I have never had a broken tip on any of my HDMI cables. Having a gold plated tip does allow for a more secure connection along with better soldering. - - - - - Actually, unless the device they plug into has gold plated connectors, then using a gold plated cable can actually promote corrosion in high humidity areas due to the dielectric effect. I know this...I live in Hawaii. I do not use gold plated cables unless the devices at both ends have gold plated connectors. Again, this is high school level stuff. And thirdly, cheaper cables tend to be "thinner" which typically means less insulation or 'shielding'. This ofcourse is a negative side effect when running cables longer lenghts. Can you cite a specific example of "thinner"? "Less Insulation"? "less shielding"? You do realize that since it is a digital signal, crosstalk is not an issue, so therefore shielding is irrelevant (except to market more expensive cables to those that do not understand the nature of HDMI protocols. You are not to blame...it is the way you are trained to believe, even though for the most part it is all hooey. If you buy something cheap, your going to get what you pay for, end of story. - - - - - - - - True. When I buy less expensive cables, I still get an HDMI cable that delivers the full HDMI signal and HDMI experience at a lower cost, allowing me to use that money to buy movies to watch. When you buy the more expensive cables, you are paying for flashier packaging, advertising, and non-features that seem to make the cable better. Perhaps you can find a knowledgeable cable technician, a broadcast engineer, or an installation specialist who are truly knowledgeable in real world use of HDMI, who are unswayed by the advertising schtick of the "super mega hyper cable" companies who will take some time and sit with you and discuss the nature of digital signals and the HDMI protocol in particular. You might actually learn something that is real and honest. Again, it is not your fault. You are trained to believe that certain cables are "better" so that you can sell cables at higher prices and lower margins. It is just the way it is done in retail. In closing, I offer you a challenge. Connect the best Blu-ray player in the store to the best display you have in the store, but connect it through an HDMI switcher. On one side, put your most expensive super mega hyper cable, and on the other put a $9 cable from the internet or wally world. Have someone secretly switch between the two cables without your knowing which is which. You will be unable to tell a difference with your eyes or your ears. Nuff said.
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Why do lightning cables break so easily?

To cut to the chase, my third lightning cable broke today. I plug it in and nothing happens. This has happened with all three the same way and it seems they just keep breaking faster and faster.
And don't tell me it's my phone because it charges fine on my ihome.
And don't tell me it's my fault because I'm fought with the cable or something.
I take pristine care of my cables
What I wanna know is if there's any more durable third party chargers out there?? Or a better way to prevent this from happening?
Because these chumps at apple obviously either don't know what they're doing or they're trying to scam us with chargers like they do with adding loads of "other data" to our iPhones.
Now let me go head over to my local apple store to shell out 30 dollars for another lightning cable that's gonna break in 3 weeks.

I've had my iPhone 5 since launch day and I am still using my original cable. I have purchased a couple extra cables so I can keep one at work, and one at my nightstand, and they are all just fine, even though they are all used almost every day.
My wife got her iPhone 5 in November of 2012 (after she accidentally dropped her iPhone 4 in the toilet). I have had to take about 5 or 6 cables back to Apple for replacement for her. She tends to plug her cable into the phone, then rest the phone down on the cable causing it to make ahard bend with the weight of the phone resting right on the cable where it comes out of the phone connector. Every one of her cables that has failed, had broken the fine wires inside right where she stress bends them. The last time I took cables back to the Apple Store, the clerk there mentioned to me that under his interpretation of the rules, the cables are only covered under the 1 year limited warranty that comes with the iPhone, and are not included in the AppleCare+ extension. It was no problem, because I had a proof of purchase for a cable that was less than a year old, so they used its one year warranty to replace that bad cable.
I would say that the cables are fine, as long as you don't heavily stress them right there at that connection, or probably the other end of the cable as well. As a way around this for her in her car, I bought a decent cable with a micro-USB connector on one end, then I bought her the micro-USB to Lightning adapter, and she uses that in her car now. That one has lasted her about 8 or 9 months and is still working...

Addition of third computer in network causes router to drop internet connection (is the problem Dropbox???)

This is not specifically about MacBook Pros, per se, but since all of the communities are based on specific products, I chose it since it applies to two of the devices concerned.
We have a LINKSYS WRT54G router in our home connected to cable internet.
We normally run a number of iOS devices on it at any given time (iPhone 5, iPhone 4s, iPhone 4, two iPad 2nd gen., one iPad Mini with Retina), and almost at all times, an Intel MacBook Pro on 10.6. We sometimes also have an Intel MacBook (black) on 10.6. These all live in harmony just fine. Both laptops have Dropbox on them, but signed in on different user accounts.
I used to have someone working at my house quite often on an Intel MacBook Pro on 10.7, also using Dropbox (but signed into a unique account). Whenever she had her computer on in our house, it would often cause the network to just drop the internet connection suddenly. The network would still have a strong signal, internet just wouldn't work.
We never quite figured it out. We had to reset the router constantly. It was NOT the modem -- you could reset just the router and the results were the same as if you had reset the modem. I didn't pursue a fix since she has since stopped working here.
Recently we just added an Intel iMac on 10.6 to the house, and it is doing the same thing. The only difference is this time, it's logged into the same Dropbox account as my MacBook Pro. At first, it seemed as if there was an issue if both were trying to update at the same time. When I paused syncing on one computer or throttled the upload/download bandwidth, it seemed to get better. However, lately, I am not syncing any large files -- or any files at all, it seems, sometimes -- and I also kept one machine on throttled connections, while a THIRD machine is even off completely...and it's still kicking the internet connection off.
Any ideas? I'm getting really tired of re-setting it every so often.
Thank you!

Also, there are no other networks we pick up here. Sometimes, we randomly get the neighbor's, but it's protected and we don't ever join it.
Try the basics first:
Change your router channel number. Most times this works & is all you have to do.
Disconnect & reconnect your modem. unplug it for about 10 seconds. Plug it back in. Do the same for Apple’s routers. Wait for everything to reboot.
System Preferences>Network
Click the Assist Me button.
In the next window that pops up, click the Diagnostic button & do the necessary.
Research Knowledge Base for network problems that pertain to the OS that is currently installed on your computer. See these basic networking KB Articles: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1401 AirPort troubleshooting guide
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4628 Wi-Fi: How to troubleshoot Wi-Fi connectivity
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2712 Using network locations in Mac OS X
Manually provided DNS server addresses are higher priority than DHCP's
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1714 Solutions for connecting to the Internet, setting up a small network, and troubleshooting
============================
What to do when you can't connect to the Internet
Also, run the Airport Utility app which is located inside the Utilities folder.
=====================
If using a Linksys router, contact LinkSys Customer Support and/or post in their forums.
If using Apple's Airport, please re-post over in one of the AirPort Forums.

Switch DSL to cable modem causes Time Capsule "Flash on Activity" nonstop?

I recently switched from DSL to Cable internet. After I switched, the green light on the Time Capsule CONSTANTLY flashes -- as if there's constant activity. The Time Capsule was set to "Flash on Activity" when it was attached to the previous DSL modem and it only flashed when there was obvious activity. Now it flashes constantly green -- even when all devices are turned off.
I have ruled out anyone lurking on my wifi. Even after resetting the wireless password, the green light again immediately starts flashing constantly.
I've searched and searched the Internets for anyone with a similar issue, but have yet to find one.
Should I be concerned? Should I just let it flash? I like to see when there's activity on the Time Capsule, but now watching it flash all the time just makes me paranoid.
P.S. It also does the same thing when hooked up to an 802.11n AirPort.
Thoughts?

The Duke of WIndsor wrote:
It's distressing to think that there are constant break-in attempts. I assume that's what the firewall is for, so I guess I'm ok.
You should be OK. Not all of it is break-in attempts. A lot of it is just your neighbors' computers sending packets to advertise that they have a file share open. Or a printer. Before I got a router/firewall, I was really surprised at how many people had wide open file shares or shared printers. And some traffic will be from Comcast, too.
I'm not sure if I'm port forwarding. I just have a typical Time Capsule wifi setup.
You probably aren't if you're not sure. It's definitely not set up that way out of the box. Port forwarding would be if you wanted to allow a server on a computer inside your home network. I forward a port so I can log into the UNIX shell on my computer from my work.
The main two things you want to look at are to open the AirPort Utility and look at the "AirPort" section's "Time Capsule" page. There's a checkbox for "Allow setup over WAN." You want that to be unchecked (blank). And if you go to the "Advanced" page, under "Logging & Statstics" there's a setting for "Allow SNMP" and a sub-setting for "Allow SNMP over WAN." It's most critical that "Allow SNMP over WAN" also be unchecked (blank). Those two settings could allow someone from outside your home network to mess with the Time Capsule. The other thing is to make sure you have a good password both to join the network and to actually administer your Time Capsule.
The thing that confuses me the most about the flashing on activity issue is that millions of people have comcast cable internet and I assume many thousands use a Time Capsule or an Airport for wifi and yet I have been completely unable to find any mention of anyone having this same problem.
I've seen it mentioned in cable-modem specific forums, like the Comcast forums or DSL Reports. I've had a cable modem for close to 15 years. For the first couple of years, I didn't see the activity light blink like it does now. But that changed not long after I got the cable modem, maybe when they replaced an old one with a different brand.
I remember seeing quite a few posts about it then, but I suppose people just got used to it after a while. And it's not limited to the Time Capsule: I've had three or four other firewall/router devices from other manufacturers, and they all had the blinking activity lights, too.
charlie

Can't find any discussions on this. Suddenly cannot stream video in Safari or Chrome on my iPad 2. The error is "The operation could not be completed." Rebooted cable modem and router, no luck. No problem with my PC. Help!

Suddenly I cannot stream video on my iPad 2. I get the error, "The operation cannot be completed." The browser (Safari or Chrome) continues to try to load the video with no result. I have no problem streaming on my WIndows PC (laptop) using the same WiFi router (Netgear dual band) connected to my Comcast/Xfinity cable modem. I have tried renewing my lease, clearing apps out of memory and rebootng the iPad, still no luck. (How do you do a "hard reset", I forgot?) Frustrating since I don't own a TV and am an Al Jazeera addict! Help!

Suddenly I cannot stream video on my iPad 2. I get the error, "The operation cannot be completed." The browser (Safari or Chrome) continues to try to load the video with no result. I have no problem streaming on my WIndows PC (laptop) using the same WiFi router (Netgear dual band) connected to my Comcast/Xfinity cable modem. I have tried renewing my lease, clearing apps out of memory and rebootng the iPad, still no luck. (How do you do a "hard reset", I forgot?) Frustrating since I don't own a TV and am an Al Jazeera addict! Help!

Airport Extreme external hdd causes router to reboot

When I try to access my external WD hard drive (formatted to FAT32) on my AirPort Extreme, it freezes and causes the router to reboot. How do I fix this?
I am accessing the hdd from windows 7 pc.

Try adding a powered USB hub....even if the WD drive has its own power supply.
Reason...the USB port is borderline as far as its ability to supply sufficient power for a hard drive even when the Extreme is new and even when the drive has its own power supply.
If the Extreme is a few years old, it is not delivering as much power to the USB port as it once did, and it needs some help.
Worst case, the internal power supply on the Extreme is starting to head South. That is usually not an issue until the device is 4-5 years old.

DHCP Self-Assigned IP Address: No Cable Connection to Router Problem

Hi. I work in different office environments. At home with Time Machine and wireless everything works fine and I can connect to internet and work wireless and also with cable.
In the office _I need to use the cable_ to connect to a dlink router:
I CANNOT CONNECT WITH CABLE but wireless works.
I set MacBook Airport/Ethernet config to "using DHCP": wireless connects, cable pulls some IP address but none of the assigned router IP addresses.
Tried:
deleting Ethernet connection, rebooting
rebooting router
manually setting IP address: effect: it says "connected" but no internet/ping possible
setting a predifined IP address in the router: no effect
Please, I hope someone could help.
Thank you

I think you are right that the problem is some combination of software (Leopard) and hardware. At first, I thought it was just the MacBook Pro (or some models of it since obviously not everyone seems to have the problem and Apple is not publicly acknowledging it. I have been working with a friend who has a Verizon home network using their wireless router from Actiontec. At my house, all three of my Macs, a G4 desktop, a G4 iBook and a G3 iBook all running 10.4.11 Tiger all work flawlessly with Verizon FIOS using the same router as my friend's. And, at his house, my G4 iBook also works fine wirelessly. So, too, does his wife's MacBook (not sure which model but bought within the year). But, my friend's MacBook Pro will NOT access the Internet wirelessly, but works just fine as long as it is connected with an ethernet cable.
So, it is not the router that is the problem, and it is not that portion of the Leopard OS that obtaines a DNS server from Verizon since the MB Pro can do this with a hardwire connection. It appears to be something in the combination of that portion of Leopard's OS that deals wirelessly with the router -- and not ALL routers either because this same MB Pro CAN use a Verizon DSL modem wirelessly at another location!
We have, of course, tried everything to get this to work, and read extensively online trying to find an answer. There are no answers online, at least as far as we have explored. So, we are off to the Apple Store shortly to see if their Geniuses have something more profound to tell us that they have been keeping secret from the world as to how to make this thing work. If they fix it, I will insist they say how, and why they have not made the fix public; if it is a hardware problem, as I suspect it is, then they need to announce a recall of this model MacBook Pro.
What still leaves me mystified is why YOU have a very similar problem not getting on the internet, yet all software indications are that you are in contact with your Verizon router with MACBOOK!
One more thing: I believe the problem is really with the airport card in some Macs, pro or otherwise. The software in the OS is telling us users that there is a live signal being received by the computer when it isn't. E.g. I tried to access friend's router via the 192.16.1.1 address in a browser; no go, so there in fact is no wireless connection even though I am being told there is; however, I still do not understand why the Airport menubar menu indicates the correct router ID (name) shows in it!
Rgds

Group above master/detail report; page break causes repeat of master frame

Hi
I have a a group above master/detail report; when there is a page break part way through the master frame it causes the whole master frame to be repeated on the next page. I don't want this to happen, I just want the remainder of the master frame to be displayed on the next page. any ideas?
TIA

Hi
I've tried switching the "Page Protect" to No at the page level and the "Print Object On" is set to "First Page" but it doesn't solve the problem. The whole master frame is repeated on the next page when a page break occurs part way through. The master/detail Repeating Frame "Print Object On" is set to "Last Page".
Any other ideas?
TIA

Major fibre cable break causes routing woes

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