Ok...here's my story.

I bought a U2 special edition ipod in November of 2005. A couple of months ago I noticed that it had started dying on me like an ipod mini I had purchased the year before. I did the best I could and continued using it, but one day it just stopped working completely. At first it had showed the "exclamation point and folder" icon, and I had gone to apple.com/support/ipod and followed all of the directions. It had worked for about a day or so and then happened again. The second time it was showing the folder icon and then a "sad ipod" icon. I had tried the second list of alternatives to fixing it. My ipod has shown every troubleshooting icon on apple.com and I'm not sure what to do other than send it away for repair. When I attempt to connect it to my emac it does nothing. Can anyone help me? Is my ipod just dying of old age or what?
If you have absolutely any info that can help me fix my ipod, e-mail me at: [email protected]
emac Mac OS X (10.4.6) HELP!

Here is a pretty comprehensive post about the sad iPod icon. Be aware that it's quite involved and contains some info that will almost certainly void the warranty. If your iPod is still within the warranty period, you should use that option first.
The Sad iPod icon.

Similar Messages

So... here's the story

So... here's the story. I currently have a mini mac and am looking to buy a mac pro.
But, should I just go out and buy one now, or should I wait till leopard comes out? (which I think is in oct-nov)
Should I wait?
Is there a big difference between tiger and leopard?
When leopard comes out, I asume the mac pro won't change but the price will go up?
If I go and buy one now, can I later upgrade to leopard when it comes out? (how much would it cost me?)
Thanks Guys and Gals

Should I wait?
Based on Leopard alone… no. If you're waiting for a hardware update or the like then that answer might well be different depending on circumstances but even still, it's normally no.
When leopard comes out, I asume the mac pro won't change but the price will go up?
No. When Leopard is released all Mac prices will remain the same with the only difference being hat it will then come with Leopard, just like PCs now come with Vista as the same price.
If I go and buy one now, can I later upgrade to leopard when it comes out? (how much would it cost me?)
Yes you can upgrade to Loepard (after its release of course) when you like, just like the rest of us. The cost is the same as it has been for quite some time, $US129 (or the UK Pound Sterling price plus VAT as you would pay).
Ultimately, what you need to do is decide what you gain by waiting along with what you lose by waiting. To me, having the power of a Mac Pro over a Mac mini, even if it's an Intel model, for 4 months from now until October is worth the price of the Leopard upgrade on its own.
Additionally, depending on your experience with largers systems like the MP the time from now can really help you get your house in order before jumping into Leopard. There's quite a bit to mull over when it comes to 4 drive bays (and all you can do with that) and 8 RAM slots not to mention Boot Camp thrown in.

7.0.2 upgrade "hangs" on install, QT upgrade too! Here's my story...help?

Hello all,
Well, it happened here too. Someone tried to run the iTunes update to 7.0.2. and it hangs right after agreeing to the license agreement. Before the install here's what the system looked like...
10.3.9, itunes 7.0.1, Quicktime 7.1.2(I think).
So, after seeing this problem first hand I ran Software Update and saw that this particular machine was asking for a Quicktime update to 7.1.3. I downloaded and installed, restarted. Tried to open iTunes...same symptom. Trashed iTunes, reinstalled, repaired permissions, opened iTunes, same symptoms.
Then I got to thinking...I remember a while ago that the Quicktime upgrade to version 7 also had some troubles, so I tried to open Quicktime.....SAME SYMPTOM as opening iTunes....hangs with beachball. When going to "Force Quit" neither of these programs shows as not responding either.
Does anyone have a fix for this seemingly WIDESPREAD problem with these latest updates? I (and several co-workers) are anxiously awaiting a solution.

I have found the cause and solution for my particular problem. Please see this thread for the answer and important links...
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=752645
Hope that helps some people:)

Complete mess: Here is my story

I've BT line and O2 broadband at the moment. As O2 is not upgrading to fibre in near future, I've decided to sign up with SKY because it is slightly cheaper and no traffic shaping.
06 July: Called BT to terminate the line, but got offered a very good deal that beats SKY by a mile from cancellation team. They advised me to call back with MAC key and left a note in my account the offer CC to my email address
07 July 09AM: Rang up BT with MAC Key and first person who took the call tried to honour the deal, but disconnected after 45 minutes of holding the line
07 July 10AM: Rang again, but new agent took all my details without any trouble and processed my order including credit card details for advance line rental. He advised me that I'll get 2 emails, first one showing the original service rental, but the second email should show the discounted amount.
No emails arrived on 7th or 8th, but got lot of emails regarding my order and setting up new online account, though I mentioned I already have online account.
09 July 9:45AM: Called again to find out the status of second email, but the customer service person has no clue what I'm talking about. There is no note left on the system associated to that They advised me to cancel the contract if I'm not happy.
Continuning: They transfered the line to cancellation department, the nice person over the phone cancelled immediately and asked me the reason. I explained everything, he advised me to wait for 24 hours. Once the order is cleared from the BT system, they will ring back me to honour the original deal.
10 July 10AM: As there is no call back or status change in my order, called BT again to find out the situation. Person from cancellation team stated the order is cancelled but system will show the order for a while. Once cleared, I'll get a call back.
11 July 05:45AM: Status still says order is in progress and modem / welcome pack has been despatched!!
Anyone from BT read this, please do the needful if you can.
Thank you
Sunil

Thank you Keith. I'll do as suggested, but here is the latest update.
Rang again today 11 July 2012: Shockingly, there is no evidence of my cancellation request in the system. Also they cannot find any notes from 6 July. He cancelled the order again and advised me not to accept the welcome pack. But advised me to re-order via sales team if they can honour the deal offered earlier.
He transferred the line to Customer service team, where I was put on hold for 35 minutes and got informed that the order is still in process. Once completed I'll get a call back confirming the offer that given on 06 July 2012
Please leave the thread open, as this is the only place I've logged the history.
This is the original offer email sent out (I've blanked exact details)
[email protected] Fri, Jul 6, 2012 at 6:48 PM
To: [email protected]
Hi Sunil
Here are the details of the offer we discussed earlier
INFBB2+UEWP for £xx.25 per month on a 12 month contract
Line Rental £10.75 per month on a 12 month contract
Free Activation & Free Installation
Free Equipment
Kind Regards
xxxx xxxxx

Here's my story! Any advice is appreciated

It will certainly help *if* you have no installment loan currently - not a huge amount, but every point counts when your scores are really down.

antec121 wrote:
In 2008, I was depositing my check and a teller advised me to open up a student credit card. I was 19 at the time I sat down and filled out the paper work and was approved with an $800 credit limit. I didn't know the first thing about credit cards, I still don't but I learned a lot of information here in the last week. For the first couple of months I made my payments on time but in 2012 and 2013 I really started to fall behind. My dad had heart surgery and I was supporting my family with whatever I had. I couldn't make my monthly payments and eventually Bank of America closed my credit card with a balance of 750. Bank of America set me up on a payment plan of $20 a month. My balance is now $590. I haven't had a credit card since then, but after reading through these forums I decided to apply for a Capital One Platinum card. I was approved with a $300 credit limit. My credit scores are currently equifax 465 and experian 495.
My question is, how should I go about tackling these scores? I'm looking to purchase a car in january of next year. Is there any way I can improve my scores in the next six months? By that time I'm hoping to have $3000 towards a downpayment on a $13,000 truck but worried about the interest rate. I have the money to pay off my debit to Bank of America, or should I just keep paying monthly and use that money towards a secured credit card? I find it hard to believe one credit card could bring me down so low. Any help/advice will be greatly appreciated!
my late payments
4 (30) 2 (60) 3 (90) 6 (120) 3 (150)Getting the BoA account paid will push your scores up, and allow the item to age. You need to get at least two more revolving accounts established and one installment account. I would suggest opening an account with SDFCU and getting a secured personal loan - they will do $500 @ 36 months for 3.99%. Payments will be only $14 and change.Once your scores move up from the secured loan and BoA being paid, app for the second Cap One card, and then see about getting a third card - secured if necessary. By next January, you may be in a good position to get that truck financed at a single digit rate.

HT5625 Here's my story: I "signed out" of my account on my IPAD. Then I DID NOT hit "create a new ID" - I simply filled in the top information with new email and password (the ipads new owner) - this got all set up but now when it wants to update anything

I gave my second IPAD to a friend.
I also recently changed the email associated with my own account
because I will be moving and will be unable to use that address much longer...
now I am not yet sure I can update my own apps (will it ask for old email and password?)
on the given IPAD - with the new Apple ID and password it is asking for
my present but soon to be disabled email with password - but it does not
recognize the password (i dont think it will recognize it when i upgrade as well!)
QUESTION
How do I straighten this mess out to be able to update all future apps on two
iphones and two ipads each having one different their separate Apple IDs?
and how can I get it to recognize the password that was at one time associated
with that email address
WSD

Apps are forever tied to the Apple ID under which they were purchased. If your friend wants to be able to manage apps on their device using their own Apple ID, they will need to delete all the apps purchased using your Apple ID and buy their own.
Hopefully, you just updated your own Apple ID with the new email and didn't make the mistake of creating a new Apple ID. If you created a new ID, stop using it now, don't buy anything using it and go back and update the ID under which you purchased your apps.

Here's my story sad but true!

Firstly my spec
27-inch, Mid 2011
Processor 3.1 GHz Intel Core i5
Memory 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics AMD Radeon HD 6970M 1024 MB
Software OS X 10.8.3 (12D78)
I bought my imac in Nov 2011, not quite a year later I got the pink screen of death (I followed instructions to remedy) all seemed fine for a little while then when I played World of Warcraft it would crash. The mac would seem to be quite hot (top right of casing) anyway I took it back to the Apple shop, they looked it over told me there was nothing wrong. Seemed ok for a while but now my mac crashes even when not gaming. I have had every sort of crash I think possible, black screen, grey vertical pinstripe, black screen but can still hear everything I was watching ok, stuttering screen etc etc so I have to reboot to get back.
I did AHT, utility repairs, upgrade from lion to mountain lion erased & clean installed hoping that would fix it but no! tried smc fan fix but it won't let me get into that?
So I am guessing (I am a noob not an IT expert) that something major is wrong with the graphics.
I am also guessing a trip back to the apple store is imminent, at my expense (as I am now out of date for warrenty etc)
Any ideas? Help?
Just call me Dr Graphic-berg (iceberg ahoy!)

I am also guessing a trip back to the apple store is imminent, at my expense (as I am now out of date for warrenty etc)
Worth a shot: Since you are only 5 months out of warranty, call Apple Customer Relations. Tell them exactly what you stated in your posting (politely). If you have any receipts or paperwork documentation from your trips to the AS tell ACR. See what they can do for you!
GOOD LUCK!!!!

Here's the story... of a lovely lady

any advice on getting the "brady bunch" effect?

Put Brady Bunch in the search box (upper right) and you'll get a bunch of hits...and some instructions.
Ross Hunter
Orange, VA

Now here is the story: gmail vs iCloud

There must be a way to manage the following problem (Dell W7 top of the range, iPhone 4S 16 and iPad 2 64:
1. I imported all my Outlook contacts to Google contact, mainly to be able to get rid of duplicates and merge mail accounts that were double but with different content and because I do not want to synch to Outlook.
2.. I synched the iPhone 4S (iOS5) from iTunes but before this I deleted my mail iCloud contacts on the phone
3. The synch went seamless it seems and I got under the contact app the following on the iPhone: 'All Contacts', 'Exchange contacts' and Exchange Global Address list'
4 So far fine
5. Then I turned on the iCloud contact and get further to 'All iCloud' several subgroups that were created on an iPhone 3G with Outlook years ago and I have no more use for these groups. How the heck can I get grid of these sub groups that drives me up the wall. I don't want them and I created them in Outlook years ago.
BTW my main mail account is gmail set up as IMAP with push, I have other accounts set up as normal POP accounts and no push of course.
Anyone have a solution to my problem, is there anyway we can access iCloud to make the manual changes?
Help would be appreciated.
Paisinho

Nice of you to jump in after I have had the audacity to complain about not getting any response to my original post, that was quick indeed, no wonder that you are at Level 6 and I am at zero..
Now, if you had had an answer to my question and problem it would have been nice to share that with me and all the other users rather than complaining about such a bad person I am, and provide the solution at the time of my original post.
But since I am not such a bad person as you claim I will give you the simple answer to the problem (that should be obvious to you as a power user), all I had to do was to log onto www.icloud.com, sign in and make the changes there and also get rid of all the old groups that I had made in the old Outlook while on my first iPhone 3. Simple, yes, but it took me hours to figure it out.
So simple that I thought that you power users did not even consider that an answer to a novice like me was even warranted.
Have a nice day and be well :-)

My iPod isn't charging so here is the story i went and plugged my iPod in and took a nap for 2 hours and when i woke up i go to my ipod and find that it is still on red it didn't charge 1 bit and it doesn't have a shortage no bent parts???

My iPod isn't charging. cauas on red so i took it and plugged the charger in the iPod i took a nap for 2 hours and woke up went to get my iPod and it is still on red which ***** cause we are going n a road trip i checked the charger and no shortage no bends and be aware it says it is charging but its not help?????

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try another cable
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

HAVING INSTALL TROUBLE? Large list of suggestions/info/solutions in here.

This thread is about installing Leopard and includes information related to install only - not running Leopard after install.
It includes information about preparing to install, and some stories of successful installs using a variety of methods. Feel free to add your own story of success.
It also includes some workarounds/solutions to a few install problems I've seen.
Here's my story:
I've been researching before I do my own leopard install on a dual 2.5 G5 10.3.9 system.
This forum is helpful, but it would be nice to see some solutions compiled into a single thread, so I've assembled a few things I found while poking around for a couple days. Nothing formal, and I have very little technical expertise - these are mostly copy/past from surfing and a couple insights I had during the research.
Everyone's computer rig is different. No single solution works for everyone, and its possible that all this info may prove useless to some, but at the least it is something to read/learn from until Apple puts together help articles.
There's very little analysis of what's wrong & who's to blame, just a bunch of stuff that might help when installing Leopard, so here you go:
Macworld article advising/describing how to prepare BEFORE installing leopard.
http://www.macworld.com/2007/10/secrets/tcoleopardupgrade/index.php?pf=1
A free 26 page freebee teaser of a $10 125 page downloadable "book" on how to prepare for install
http://www.takecontrolbooks.com/samples/TCoUpgradingLeopardSample-1.0.pdf
Webpage for the downloadable book (I have no affiliation with the author & am not attempting to promote him)
http://www.takecontrolbooks.com/leopard-upgrading.html?14@@!pt=MW-EXCERPT-TCUL1
this poster has helped with a couple post install bugs & airport issues
http://discussions.apple.com/profile.jspa?userID=103923
An Apple discussion thread on preparation ideas
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1208202&tstart=315
Here's a couple websites that might provide helpful info
http://macfixit.com/
http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/leopard/index.html
A thread I put up that lists DVD drives posted by users who are experiencing "problems" with their DVD drives.
Accurate or not, useful or not, just a list of people wondering if their DVD drive is to blame (or not).
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5719301#5719301
*Here's my own distillation* (accurate or not) of some pointers/ideas/suggestions -- all found here -- that relate to overcoming "problems" related to installing Leopard.
1. Do everything you can to prepare for install with any info you can find here or on the net (backing up, learning about & choosing install type, preparing install destination, checking hardware/software, etc etc)
2. After putting in the install disc, allow DVD test - if it fails return the disc for another
- installing with a disc that fails the test is a common theme in a number of threads here.
3. Restart holding down the C button
- forces a start from the DVD
4. Burn a copy of DVD disc to standard thickness DVD -R
- Some have reported certain DVD drives won't read it. Perhaps due to how thin it is.
5. Try choosing to install just the base operating system, no fonts, no extra applications, no extra languages
- someone posted the base system may be on layer one (most readable by all DVD drives) of the DVD install disc
- layer 2 (some drives might not be able to read 2 layer dvd well) may contain everything outside of base OS install
6. Remove all but stock apple ram
- this is inconsistent solution, but has worked for many
7. Install with another mac's dvd drive via firewire target mode (detailed below by someone else)
- if your dvd drive won't read/result in a successful install, maybe another one will.
- put dvd into another mac's dvd drive
- restart that mac holding down the T key
- connect it to your mac & launch the install disc on the firewire target mode mac
8. Erase and zero the hard drive you're going to install to - if partitioning, be sure to format correctly for machine
- users say it takes more time, but makes sure you have the disc formatted correctly & provides a better "environment" for the install
*A few person observations/opinions (accurate or not)*
1. Keep it simple:
- Installing to a apple ram only machine with a clean, zeroed, correctly formatted hard drive is the easiest thing for the Leopard installer to do.
- Installing to the opposite environment (lots of non-apple software, interface hacks from 3rd party programs, ram that might have un-noticeable glitches, dirty DVD drives, hard drives that are over 60% full etc.....) makes it more challenging to achieve a successful Leopard install. Even with that, hundreds of thousands (2mill copies sold) have probably had successful Leopard installs with the "update" or the "archive & install" methods.
2. Where do you want to spend your time?
- After reading the time investment from users that have posted about botched installs -- Sometimes it takes a lot less time to backup, verify backup, erase, zero the disc, format, install Leopard, install all programs, install all program updates & transfer all user info and libraries -- and do that once, than to correct a botched install over & over & over.
3. I've done both archive & install and erase & install. Do whatever works. From what I've read though, the Leopard DVD install disc appears to have some strict tests/parameters and if they aren't met it won't successfully install, so putting the odds in your favor might be a good idea.
*Now on to some successful install stories/methods/pointers:*
---------------backup, erase, zero disc, fresh install (remember to verify/test the backup)---------------------------
I just got Leopard and I backed up all of my data, erased the hard drive using Disk Utility with the zero all data option, I installed Leopard, installed all of my applications and copied my data back over without using the migrate manager. So far, I have not had one single problem with Leopard on my MacBook. Everything is running smoothly, So I highly recommend erasing your hard drive with Disk Utility using the zero all data option, installing Leopard, install your apps and check for updates for each application, and then copy your data from your backup. I have a close relative who is a Mac Genius for one of Apple's retail stores (for 6 years) and he says that everytime there is a new OS release, people have all kinds of problems because they did an Upgrade install rather than the process I described above. Yes, it's time consuming but it will save you a lot of trouble later. Apple should strongly recommend doing an erase and install rather than just upgrading. I think it would solve a lot of problems and prevent a lot of headaches.
-------------Erase & Install method vs upgrade method-------------------------
Have installed Leopard on both my computers. On the MacBook I did an erase and install and it has worked flawlessly. On the iMac I originally did an upgrad install that went pretty well, but I was having a number of minor issues like many of the posts here. After doing TimeMachine backups for two days I decided to do an erase and install on the iMac and then use the TimeMachine backup to only restore my data. Since doing the the erase and install on the iMac I couldn't be happier. The iMac is running like new and the TimeMachine backups restored flawlessly. Note: I manually restored the files from the TimeMachine backup on the external drive. Now TimeMachine is doing it's first backup on the "new" iMac and has recognized the old TimeMachine backup and is just adding to it. Of course the computer name and user names are identical to what they were before doing the erase and install.
-------------------Install via upgrade method (with good preparation)--------------------------------
For those of you who may be hesitant about installing Leopard on an older Mac this may be encouraging.
I installed Leopard onto a Rev B 12" PB (1GHz 768 MB RAM). Prior to installing I verified the Macintosh HD and did an extended hardware test from the PB install disc. I used the upgrade method to install Leopard as I did from Panther to Tiger on the PB and from Jaguar to Panther to Tiger on my G4 iMac. FileVault was enabled.
The install took 2 hours to the minute from clicking on Restart in Tiger to logged in to Leopard. 28 minutes of this was taken up by the install DVD verification process. You could skip this, but having read all the posts on these boards about defective DVDs I let it run. The install took a long time to calculate 'time remaining' and eventually gave this as 3 hours 52 minutes, although as I've said, it was less. There were periods of several minutes where nothing seemed to be happening - no hard drive or DVD drive activity - but I resisted the temptation to intervene. There were especially long pauses at 1:42 and 13 minutes to go. The 'about a minute' took 17 minutes during which time my fingers were twitching.
The restart after installation seemed vey long (as always) but there was no double-restart a la Tiger updates. I can confirm there is no longer a 'Loading Mac OSX' screen with progress bar. You go straight from blue screen to log-in window. All system prefs were as I'd had them in Tiger. Apps launched slowly while Spotlight was indexing but are back to normal now. All apps seem okay including Office:Mac 2004. Word took a long time building the font menu so I've probably got a horde of duplicates again.
-----------Installing from a DVD COPY of the install disc-----------------------
I copied the Leopard disk to a blank, double sided DVD. The copied DVD happily started, performed an archive and install without a glitch, and now I have Leopard up and running.
---------------Installing with firewire "target disc" method & how to use disc utility to aid install------------------------------------
ATTENTION EVERYONE- you can run disk utility without having a system installed. This should be your first step in trying to fix the problem!
Boot off of your Leopard or Tiger disk by holding down the "c" key at startup. When you are prompted with the install screen, instead of installing, go up to the menu bar and select the "utilities" menu, and scroll down to disk utility.
There are many different things you can try with disk utility. There are a few things you should try first before taking a dive and erasing your entire disk.
1. If you click on your Hard disk or volume, at the bottom of the window a bunch of general information about your drive will pop up, such as size, format, etc. One of the last things told about your drive is its S.M.A.R.T. status. This is basically a protective measure for you, so you can check and see if your drive is doing alright physically. This isn't completely foolproof, as your drive could still have problems even if it isn't reporting it through the S.M.A.R.T. status. But if your drive is reported as failing, then you can be sure your hard drive needs to be changed. Otherwise, move to step two.
2. By clicking on your Hard disk or volume, you can also repair permissions and repair disk. If you are having problems with your install or problems after the install has already been done (such as freezing on the blue startup screen), you will want to run both of these. If volume errors are reported back as unfixable, you may want to think of trying to salvage your files (if you don't backup) by purchasing an external firewire drive, installing a system on it and pulling your files from your internal hard disk onto the firewire drive. If all problems are corrected, then go ahead and try the install again.
3. There is also a tab at the top of the disk utility window that says erase. Here, you can wipe your disk totally clean. Typically, you can't wipe your startup disk clean when you are booted off of the harddrive, because erasing requires that you unmount the disk, in which you can't unmount the startup disk, since the OS is running off of it. Only if you have multiple hard drives or a boot disk (such as leopard or tiger) can you erase your original startup disk. So if you have no further options or do not care about your existing data, go ahead and wipe the disk clean. Also make sure the disk is formatted in Mac OS extended (HFS+). From there, you can go ahead and try the installation.
Here's some more info on disk utility, and some other ways to check disks through single-user mode-
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Besides disk utility, there are some other ways of getting the install to work. One of the simplest ways is to use target disk mode. This is for those of you who have more than one mac, preferrably a desktop and a laptop (otherwise you'll have to move both desktops to the near vicinity of one another.). It requires you to hook the computers together using a firewire cable, and allows you to mount the harddrive of one computer onto another. This is a great tool for transferring large files, diagnostics, and bypassing installation problems. This would probably be a solution for anyone who installed Leopard on one computer in their house and got it to work, but couldn't get it to work on another computer (the OP). I've also heard that it bypasses the minimum requirements needed to install Leopard (min. 867 mhz processor). The procedure requires that (with both computers off) you first hook a firewire cable between the intended computers, by plugging one end into a firewire outlet of the first computer and the other end into a firewire outlet in the second computer. You then start up the computer that had Leopard successfully installed on it (or the one that didn't fail during installation). Once it is fully booted and at the desktop, hold the "t" key on the keyboard of the other computer (the one that failed the installation) and start it up. Continue holding "t" until you see a firewire symbol bouncing around on the screen. You should then see the drive mounted on the first computer as a firewire drive. You will be able to access everything on the harddrive as normal. You can forget about the computer with the firewire symbol bouncing around on it from this moment on. Now, put the Leopard install disk in the DVD drive, hold the "c" key and restart the computer. It will boot off of the install disk, as normal, but now you should have the option to select the disk of the other computer in target disk mode. Choose the disk and start the installation. Then cross your fingers!
More information on target disk mode here-
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58583
If none of these options work, then report back what happened after you tried each of them, and we can try to solve the problem on a case-by-case basis.
-------------Install to an external partitioned firewire disc---------------------------
I used my 1000 mhz APS partitioned G4 Cube to install 10.5 on an External APS partitioned Firewire Disk. (If you attempt to install from a GUID partitioned disk like the Intel MB Pro, it requires the External disk to also be GUID...). That installation was a simple "Install" procedure. No problems.
------------Install with 2 hard drives method, cloning & import from previous machine---------------
After reading much here and elsewhere I opted to do a clean install followed by an 'import from previous machine'
1. Carbon Copy Clone your 10.4 disk; this will act as the backup you should be taking anyhow and the source for your import.
2. Test your backup (you do test your backups on occasion right?) boot into your newly installed copy and look around, you should find everything works as it should, if not check your copy options and try again.
3. Disconnect your backup/copy, insert your 10.5 media and do a clean install, configuring as you may (there is a good amount of space to save in printer drivers and alternate languages).
4. After you've finished the install you will be given the option to import files from another mac or mounted volume, attach your backup, import it; select what you want, I wanted all files but you could choose to take this as an opportunity to clean up, 132 GB of data took about 2 hours to walk through on my MBP.
5. I am running from this now and am quite happy.
6. Keep your 10.4 backup copy for a couple of weeks just in case, create a new backup set with time machine?
YMMV but enjoy.
-------------if your destination drive to install on doesn't show up right away-----------------
I have a fix for you. This was brought up in another thread, and I had the same problem. The solution is so ghetto, but it really works. Here is what you do:
When you get to the select a destination screen, go to the utilities menu and open up Disk Utility. You'll notice your hard drive is there, but it's missing the Mac OS X partition. This is the trick: wait about 10-15 minutes, and come back. Your partition will now be showing. Simply quit Disk Utility and return back to the installer. It should work from there.
--------------If having prob w/ dual layer disc---------------------------------------
I did a successful custom install by removing every single install package other than "base system". My prior attempts had always kept the Printer Driver package but removing the fonts, languages and X11 install packages. Removing the Printer Driver install package finally did the trick.
The Leopard install disk is dual-layer. My PowerBook G4 1Ghz Titanium has a single layer DVD drive. The basic Leopard OSX install package is on a DVD layer that is readable by older, non dual-layer drives; the other "accessory" Leopard install packages(i.e; printer drivers, X11, language) are on a DVD layer not accessible with older DVD drives. The Leopard install program incorrectly assumes everyone has a dual-layer DVD drive and subsequently "chokes" on the install when trying to install packages from the inaccessible DVD layer. This is how I ended up with repeated "EXCLAMATION!" ....."could not validate the contents of....." errors.
-----------1 users solution to exclamation mark on install problem-------------------------
I got a giant exclamation mark when installing on my iMac too. Turns out there was some trifling problem with my hard drive. Here's what I did to fix it:
1. Boot from the Leopard DVD.
2. Select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu once the installer starts.
3. Click the drive you tried to install Leopard on.
4. Click Repair Volume.
5. Brew a nice hot cup of tea.
6. If it finds anything wrong it will attempt to fix it and will display a message describing the problem.
7. Quit Disk Utility and install as normal.
This wont necessarily work for everyone as there are many things that might cause the exclamation mark to appear.

I'm not really sure what method that person was talking about. I just read he had a successful install so I posted it.
But I'll hazard a guess
1. copy your entire drive to a backup drive
2. boot into that drive and test it out - make sure its a flawless backup, it works, and the hard drive has no problems
3. eject that drive, disconnect it and reboot into the leopard install dvd
4. erase your main hard drive using disc utilities on the leopard install dvd -- you've made a backup, made sure that backup was good, and disconnected it so it's currently safely disconnected from the leopard install you're about to do. Also, on the hard drive you're erasing and installing leopard on to, many people recommend "Zeroing" it as well as erasing it. That option is part of the erase function in disc utilities on the leopard install disc.
5. do a clean install of leopard
6. follow step 4 from that original post exactly as that person described to do.
7. read the rest of what they said
That's pretty much it. With the backup/erase/clean install/import/ you pretty much get everything you need exactly the way you want it with very few things missing -- and you've done this over a clean install. Plus that poster did mention that you can select what you want to import from your backup hard drive.
It sounds like its a "clean install" method that gives you control via "import from machine" option in the installer. Control over what parts of your "old mac" you want to import into your "new leopard mac".
Hopefully that helps. It sounds more involved, but its actually pretty quick and provides you with a perfectly save backup in case anything goes wrong with the leopard install.

PLEASE READ MY STORY AND HELP ME!

So here's my story:
A few months after I got my iPhone 3G I noticed that it had developed the infamous plastic crack. I contacted the Apple store and they assured me that it would get replaced because it was a known defect. I live about an hour and a half away from an Apple store so I've been putting it off.
A few month ago My iTunes started acting weirdly. Whenever I plugged my phone into it, it would crash. I managed to update it to iTunes 8.2 but the problem kept happening. This went on until I finally had enough of it. I researched several options of how to fix it from switching users on my computer to deauthorizing and reauthorizing my iTunes account to uninstalling and reinstalling. Finally something worked- I went into the list of programs that run on startup and followed instructions to disable some of them.
So now my iTunes didn't crash when I connected it to my iPhone and I started to download 3.0. I didn't get that far because whenever I would try to back it up, it would take tens of hours. Soon my computer was overheating and I had to stop it. I tried again several times all with the same result. I was getting so frustrated with this that I just turned off my backup.
But the problems continued. I finally got to what seemed like the end, but then the 3.0 update stopped for hours and hours on the 'Verifying iPhone update' scrolling bar.
I started researching this problem, on these forums and elsewhere and found no answers. Someone had said to hit ctrl-alt-delete during it, to get out. So frustratedly I did it.. and it stopped.
Now here is where I am now- I'm left with a phone that needs to be restored, but when I restore it it still freezes on the "Verifying" stage.
I was planning on going to the Apple store at some point before my warranty ran out to get the crack problem resolved, but this weekend I am busy and an hour and a half away from the nearest store. Is there anyway I can fix this so I have a phone until I can get to Apple? I can't call Apple because I don't have a home phone.

I would suggest setting up an appointment with a Mac Genius.
Ray

K7N2 & Durons - My Story

Here is my story in full:
I purchased the K7N2 to replace my aging Abit board, and I have a 1.3GHz Duron. I was to give the old board to my wife, and put in it a 700MHz Duron I had lying around. I also purchased a single stick of Apacer 512M PC3200 RAM.
I got the board, put the 1.3GHz Duron and the RAM in it, and set the FSB jumper to 100MHz, and booted it up -- and the onboard diagnostic told me that the CPU was "Damaged or incorrectly installed". So, I tried the 700MHz Duron. This time the onboard diagnostic told me it was a problem with my memory. So, I tried memory from my work machine which as 2x512 PC3200 TwinX Corsair memory -- same error message. I purchased 2x256 Crucial PC2700 RAM, and tried that -- same message. I know both of the processors and all the memory to work perfectly, so after corresponding with MSI tech support, I RMA'd the board back to where I had ordered it (NewEgg), as that was MSI's suggestion.
I received a new board a couple of days later -- and STILL had the same "Damaged RAM or incorrect installation" diagnostic. I knew something HAD to be up -- but MSI claims that Durons work with these boards -- even my old, slow 700MHz and 1.3GHz processors. What to do? I had seen in my varied research around the net that /maybe/ using a faster, more recent processor might work. That seemed to be the only difference between my non-functioning machine and everyone else who has no problems. So, I ordered an Athlon 2500+ Barton-core CPU. It came in this morning.
I installed it and one of my PC2700 Crucial sticks -- and LO AND BEHOLD, it booted up! Even with ALL of my RAM in it, it still worked A-OK, so the problem was apparently with the board's seeming incompatability with the Duron processors!
What gives?!?
Now that I have doubled my investment, I'm still quite happy with the board so far -- but I really wish I would have known about this apparently compatability issue.
Has anyone else noticed this? MSI Support?

I tried and tried and tried to install XP on my new MSI 745 Ultra with a Duron 1.0 Ghz and Kingston PC2700 DDR. Blue screened every time. So I started swapping components left and right. I actually bought two of everything, 745 Ultra, CPUs, memory, etc. so I had spare components to swap. However, my newly purchased components went thru a trickle down effect. One of the new CPUs and video card went into one of my existing machines. Those components where then used for this new machine. Therefore, I had a Duron 1.0 GHz and a Athlon 2100+. When I used the Athlon, XP installed. But when I used the Duron, blue screen. I was determined to figure this out. So I started swapping my 2 memory modules. Then I put them in different DIM slots. Still blue screened. Then I tried pulling my old no name PC2100 DDR memory out of my old machine and tried it. It worked!
I have yet to build my second MSI 745 Ultra machine with my Athlon 2100+ CPU and my Kingston PC2700 DDR. However, assuming it installs correctly, my conclusion is that Duron and anything greater than PC2100 is not compatible with my 745 Ultra and probably not with your K7N2 either.
Hope this helps.

W510 SSD - My Story

Here's my story: I've had my W510 for 4 years without problems of any kind. However, recently bootup times started to be around 4 minutes. So I decided to get an SSD and put that in to see if performance increased. I bought a couple of 240 GB HP v300a drives on sale. They are SATA III drives, with Sandforce 2281 controllers. I made a disk image using Acronis, then printed that on the SSD and installed it. It booted up fine, in a fraction of the time, and all was good for several weeks. Then a very interesting problem popped up. The only game I play on the W510 is World of Warcraft. From time to time, the game would completely freeze. The whole system would lock up, and I would have to press the power button and do a manual cold boot. The freezing problem was intermittent, and seemed to happen at times when the game was particularly graphics intensive. Sometimes it would go away for days, only to come back. Weirdness! I thought it was the fault of WoW--but when the system froze using Creative Suite 5.5, I put the original HDD back in. Now I'm back to where I was. No freezing. Everything works fine, if sluggish and boot times are 4 minutes.
I want to install an SSD in this machine. I know I can get 4 more years of life out of it if I do. Perhaps the HP drive isn't as compatible with the W510 as some other brand. I welcome recommendations. If I neglected to do something in BIOS, perhaps someone could counsel me. The HP SSD itself may be defective--I have not tried it in another system. However, the identical disk went into my Dell laptop and there have been absolutely no problems, and that was a far older system than my W510. The HP disks were really a stab in the dark. If someone can direct me to a disk that will work with a disk image (I don't own a full version of Windows 7, just upgrades)--but I do have the Lenovo recovery disks. Thanks in advance for any counsel you may offer.
Best regards, Mike
OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
Version 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Name MICHAEL-THINK
System Manufacturer LENOVO
System Model 4318CTO
System Type x64-based PC
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU Q 720 @ 1.60GHz, 1600 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date LENOVO 6NET84WW (1.45 ), 10/3/2012
SMBIOS Version 2.6
Windows Directory C:\Windows
System Directory C:\Windows\system32
Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1
Locale United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7601.17514"
User Name Michael-THINK\Michael
Time Zone Pacific Daylight Time
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 8.00 GB
Total Physical Memory 7.93 GB
Available Physical Memory 4.16 GB
Total Virtual Memory 15.9 GB
Available Virtual Memory 11.9 GB
Page File Space 7.93 GB
Page File C:\pagefile.sys
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi,
@Hackermc:
As far as I can see the only model that is supported on http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=ThinkPad%20W510%20Series is the M500 (not M4!) with 240GB, not 480 GB?!
Crucial M500 240GB 2.5-inch Internal SSD
Or is this incorrect?
I will looking forward of your results with the 480 GB version of the M500.
@ George
You said the M4 512 is running well with the W510.
Which Chipset does your W510 have: Intel 6 or 7 series. And which CPU?
I think, this will make a big difference.
My dealer is able to get the M4/512 GB, which is more than sufficient for the W510 Sata II.
I got around 260 MB/s with the Samsung SSD on the W510 (when it had a 5 minutes of good time).
This ist the maximum write speed for dem M4, so it fits perfectly.
Greets
Axel

Preempting problems here- BT Home Hub-ethernet cable-Airport Extreme

OK- here is the story so far. Have a summerhouse needing broadband/telephone from the main house. It is 80 metres from the main house and so unable to use WiFi to connect to our BT Home Hub (white from 2006).
The problem we needed to overcome is the distance involved and so laid a telephone cable and an ethernet cable.
First of all the ethernet connection to the BT Home Hub:
It connects fine to the BT station and runs down the garden in its "communications pipe" with the telephone lineto connect the iMac to the internet.
BUT when we tried to reconnect the Netgear (so that the laptops could be used down at the summerhouse) which once worked fine with all the MacBooks etc to this set up it refused to work.
So I dusted off the Airport Extreme and wonder- can this be made to work as a wireless router at the end of an ethernet cable plugged into a BT Home Hub (white)?
Then- does anyone have a clue if there is a phone system in the UK which permits the transfer of calls and intercom usage between handsets where the distance is too great for handsets to communicate wirelessly? Ie use the telephone line? I have an iDect system (swish bit of kit) and can make the handsets communicate with each other as long as they are within range of each other, just not when one of them is down at the summerhouse. Anyone got a solution?

Thank you for that. I understand that if I don't do this the Airport Extreme will keep trying to take over the job, right?
As it happens I haven't got an Admin Utility in my Utilities folder. I have AirPort Disk Utility and an AirPort Utility. I am on Tiger?
OK- having checked the Airport out via the ethernet cable (and without) it is fine- it was once set up as our wireless router (in the chain after a BT Voyager or something like that, one which requires a wireless box if you wanted to use it like that). The computer could see it (and was even connected to it wirelessly at one point) but only one light was ever on on it (the centre one) with the other two flashing intermittently.
At the moment the AirPort has had to be turned off because the BT Hub was not assigning IPs and anyone who came to join the network for a new session (considering we are running 4 Mac laptops...).
What now?
:O

Ok...here's my story.

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