Overheating concern.

How hot should my Powerbook's CPU be operating. The iStat widget is saying that my CPU Bottom temperature is around 134 degrees. I was operating with my power supply on and the screen about 3/4 brightness.

Depending on what you're running, how warm the room is, and whether you have the Powerbook on a flat surface, it's not unusual to see temps in the 120's to 130's. Fans kick on in the low 140's, if that helps with what Apple considers hot.
When the system seems to be on the hot side, check your activity monitor (on your hard drive in applications/utilities) and see if anything is taking 100% of the CPU. Also make sure you don't have a print job in the print queue that didn't complete, as OS X will do it's darndest to print it, and it will keep trying, using up alot of CPU cycles. Of course, you need to have the PB on a flat surface, as the bottom is a heat sink for the CPU. When I render a video, which can take hours, I elevate the back bottom about 1/2" to ensure adequate air can circulate while the system runs maxed out.

Similar Messages

In search of ...powered firewire hub for mac mini.

Greetings mac users ,
luv my mac mini!! Fits my small desk space well. I'm looking for a powered firewire/usb hub with @ 1Tb. memory. I plan to use this for downloading audio and video.(SONY A/V GEAR) I really like the look and space saving quality of the 'stacking' units. I tried the belkin non-powered hub but that did not work for my application.
I would like to have fire 800 9-pin input and output with ports on front or front left . BTW , Is there an overheating concern with the stacking units?
I welcome your recommendations. THANX ,..........the seeka

DaddyPaycheck wrote:
Good point. Somebody somewhere is stacking these and probably has the answer.
I don't think I have the definitive answer, but I currently have 2 MiniStacks under each of 5 separate Mini Server installations. I usually have them installed on a shelf with at least 4" of open space in 5/6 directions from the stack as a whole.
The Mini Server goes on top, with the two MiniStacks right beneath. Works well so far, but they've only been running as long as the Mini Server has been around.
G. Discenza
Message was edited by: carana
Changed some wording to make things a bit less confusing

As a uni student, should i go for a macbook pro 13 inch or 13 inch with retina? concerns include overheating, lagging etc.

gotta get a new computer from uni, not too sure on the pro or pro with retina. its deffinately going to be a 13 inch but im concerned about overheating ,the removal of the optical drive in the retina plus ive heard stories that mountain lion and the retina arent very compatible, making it lag etc. im also thinking about purchasing off the apple website is this safe? if i recieve one and it end up breaking can i send it back or what? any replies would be super great thanks

The retina display will use a bit more battery than the non retina display will. What sre you going to school for? I agree with the form factor you are choosing.
A 13" for most folks at college is pretty ideal unless you are majoring in a heavy graphics, photography field os tudy. In that case I would want the 15.4" retina for certain.
I don't think you will have any issues between the retina or the non-retina with over-heating.
I have bought several things over the last few years off the Apple website and have had no issues.
Good luck on your hunt!

Overheating and battery concern

I have some question about the heat and the battery of my laptop. I am currently owning the Aspire VN7-591G-787J gaming notebook. First I will start with the battery. I usually use my laptop on the ac adapter at 100% of charge. When the battery is at 100% its saying: plugged in not charging. So I assume it will be good for the battery because it is only using power from the adapter during that time. I use the laptop on the battery every 2 week to keep the battery in shape. Is it a good way to get a good life time on my battery before it start to deteriorate? The other question is about overheating. When I was gaming on my laptop I saw that the cpu was way to hot. In some case on crysis 3 it was getting up top 99c and the processor was trottling himself. to fix that I put the max utulisation of the cpu at 80% and now my cpu is at 85c when gaming. For some reason I dont see any of the cool dust and booster thing when I open acer quick access. So I was wondering if the 85-90 temperature in the long term would cause any damage to the cpu and other part of the laptop when gaming. I hope that my post is clear enough! english is not my primary language.

Your first question: As the battery isn't removable, you can't do much to prevent battery ageing. Regularly letting it drain by using it is in my opinion the smartest move. Your second question. 99 degrees celcius on the die of the CPU is dangerous. Intel requires OEMs (like Acer) to use cooling solutions that can hold temperatures up to the maximum Tjunction temperature minus 10 degrees, which in your case would be 90 degrees. Your CPU throttles to keep it under 100 degrees celcius. This means the cooling isn't working as expected. I suggest that you RMA it, as those temperatures can damage your hardware. Some quick questionsWhat program did you use to measure the temperatures? I suggest HWMonitor: klik me! What is the room temperature? 26 degrees or more can cause high temperatures like these. What is the GPU temperature?

My less than 5 month old imac 21.5 desktop is causing me some concern,it is slow to start, problems with bluetooth.problems with wi fi.whe its turned off i notice a graying in the four corners of the screen,this is i think the effects of overheating.

my imac is less than 5 months. old tommorow it goes to murcia for ¿repair?.a 25.1 1mac desktop is a formidable piece of workmanship but thatdoes not stop anything going wrong,as ive found out.in the last month it has begun to heat rapidly thus i think causing a graying in the 4 corners of the screen,this is ugly.as i keep my mac in pertfect grace ie free of dust and prints,also it freezes frequently and downright frustrating.has anyone else had similar problems.on a footnote i beleive apple care will come thru shining,but an answer to my question,wich is why in only 5 months has my imac gone wrong.

Sorry to hear you're having issues with your Mac, but just like pretty much everything else, things can go wrong.
The key is what Apple will do about it now that it has gone wrong. Because you are under warranty, contact AppleCare and explain the issues you are experiencing. There is a chance that your iMac may have to be sent in for repair.
My iMac has had issues since first bought in late 2009, in one form or another and has been repaired three times. AppleCare are going to replace the item sometime in the future, I have no idea when, but I have been without a working Mac for over three weeks now, actually it might be over four weeks.
As you said, AppleCare will sort the problem out for you, let's hope it's not a lengthy repair and they get you up and running quickly.

Power cord plug in overheated, black smoke and extremely hot...

My daughter has had the Macbook for less than a year. She says it has always sparked when plugging in/out but tonight
black smoke started coming out of the box where the prongs are. I am extremely upset...this could have caused a fire.
I understand we can probably get a new one as it's under warranty, my concern is still the fact that it overheated in the
first place.
We do not have an Apple store in our small town and she needs a replacement asap. Should I just call the support
helpline? I'd like to think they'd take this seriously...
Here's a photo..the prong where it's burned was extremely hot, the other prong cool. ://

Except that it is normal under many circumstances.
Any capacitive load on a circuit will tend to resist changes in voltage, with the result that plugging in a capacitive load will often cause a small spark to form. Similarly, an inductive load will tend to resist changes in current, which is why unplugging a running electric motor will also often cause a small spark to form. The transformer in a power adaptor, when connected at the other end, is a capacitive load.
The trick, of course, is being able to differentiate between these effects and sparks caused by short-circuits in the socket or plug, which can be extremely dangerous fire hazards. Certainly if there are other indicators of a short-circuit, like heat being generated, then it must be checked out. In fact, if there's any uncertainty, it should probably be checked out.
However, explaining that there can be sparks in a perfectly functioning socket is not the same as telling people that sparking can, or should, be ignored. If anything, it's telling them not to ignore it, but to investigate it.

My experiences & solutions to new overheating iMac

I know there are many threads concerning these overheating problem with some new aluminum iMacs but it's kind of hard to decide which one to post my experience to so I'm just posting a new thread. This is not a question because I think I fixed the problem with mine. I just wanted to share this with people in hopes that it might correct your problem as well instead having to take it back to the store.
Well, I bought a new 20" 2.4 aluminum iMac on August 24th. I connected my previous iMac to it and started migrating my user account & files to it. During this process is when the new iMac completely shut off on me! I thought it was just a glitch or something. So I turned it back on and it started the migration again. Everything went well this time. But since then it has turned off on me at least 3-4 times. When I was backing up files to an external drive. And a few times while working in Photoshop and Aperture it would start freezing up & the graphics would become distorted and blocks all over the screen. And from my days of overclocking PCs I knew this was a heat related problem more than likely with the video card.
So I installed a program called smcfancontrol and was able to up the speed of the fans. This corrected the problem and I didn't get lock ups or freezes after that. But I knew you shouldn't have to do this so I was looking for a solution so I wouldn't have to take the iMac back to the local Apple Store. Because that would be a pain having to backup files and start over again.
I reset the fans back to normal speed and quit the smcfancontrol program. I installed iStat Menus so I could monitor the fans & temp. It would seem that when the GPU would reach 150 deg F then it would start having problems. Well, I reset the SMC, PRAM, and NVRAM to see if this would solve the problem. Because what it seemed like what was happening was that the part of the system that controls the fans & temp was not responding correctly when it got hot.
Since I did the reset to those areas of the system I have not had any shut downs or freezes. I ran the system through a number of tests. I worked in Photoshop & Aperture at the same time doing a number of different processes while playing music in iTunes. I did the Hardware Test a couple of times. Xbench. And I also ran an pretty intensive test called CPUTest where it got the whole computer pretty hot through repetition. The fan for the CPU was speeding up over the normal 1200 rpm like it should and it never shut off or gave any more errors.
So I'm crossing my fingers now that the issue with my new iMac was resolved with resetting the SMC, PRAM, and NVRAM. And it saves me a trip back to the Apple Store!
I hope this information is helpful to someone.
Following these links on how to reset the SMC, PRAM, & NVRAM:
Intel-based iMac, Intel-based Mac mini: How to reset the System Management Controller
Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
-Kevin
*I have owned quite a few Macs over the past six years and have technician certifications in both Macs & PCs.*

Well, I've been wrestling with my iMac for the past week in trying to solve my freeze & shutdown problem so I wouldn't have to take it back to the Apple Store and also if I did then I would like to know what the problem is first so I can tell them if it is definitely a hardware problem. The freezes & shutdowns would happen at random times and I don't think it is a overheating problem now because of this. It did seem like it would happen more often when I would work in Aperture & Photoshop. I would get through editing 3 or 4 photos and it would lock up completing. Then I would have to do a hard reset.
Anyway, yesterday morning I reinstalled the OS via Archive & Install. It seemed to be running better. So I started working on some projects but again after doing some work for about an hour, it froze on me. I took a break because I was fed up with it at the time and came back to it later.
I decided to reset the SMC and PRAM again since I had not done that after the OS reinstall. Then I removed all extra cables except the extra display, keyboard, mouse, & speakers. I skimmed through 2000 photos in Aperture and I monitored the temp & fan speeds. The whole computer got pretty hot especially the CPU and video card (GPU). The CPU fan sped up to 1500rpm at one point like it should. And after getting through all those photos, it did not freeze or shut down on me at all. Woohoo!
And this morning I noticed that the computer went to sleep like it was supposed to. It never did that before. So I'm thinking maybe the OS reinstall and the second time of resetting the SMC & PRAM might have solved my problem. I'm crossing my fingers! I will be gradually plugging in my extra devices to make sure one of those is not the problem.
Anyway, I hope sharing my experiences have helped. I definitely know the AppleCare & "Genius" Bar hasn't been much help to me. Seems like all they know how to do is turn it on! I hate having the feeling that I know more than the people who are supposed to be qualified to be in that position. And as for AppleCare I got some guy from another country who had bad English and was obviously reading through a step by step handbook and wasn't listening to what I was saying very much.
Side note: It's obvious that Apple moved the power supply from below the screen to the upper left corner of the iMac. That's the reason it is warmer in that area. I wouldn't be concerned about that. These power supplies have always run that warm in the flat iMacs. Easier to feel on these new models though because they are thinner.
-Kevin

Windows 7 - No more overheating

Hello. I recently installed Windows 7 in place of XP on my Boot Camp partition, on my Unibody MacBook Pro.
I've only installed NVidia drivers and Realtek sound drivers. I've gamed on this five times in a row without any overheating issues. This is good! Could never get this to work reliably in XP.
My question is, what else do I really need to install and from where do I obtain it? My primary concern is speed, not perks. I don't really care about the track pad. The volume keys might be nice. I'm not really inclined to stick my OSX disk in and run those drivers, based on my XP experiences. I'd like to pick and choose.
My device manager shows a coprocessor with a yellow ! next to it. Is there a Mobo driver or something I need?
Thanks, Heath

I suggest you first get the "TpFan" utility it will show you the actual temperature of various components on the motherboard.
I had similar problems on a X61 and found out that by using TpFan I could set the fan to manual with max speed which would give me more cooling when I needed it.
You should also ensure you have PowerManager installed and proper settings on CPU and fan, use advanced mode. Note that there are two sets of settings one for battery and one for power connected.
It seems that it is not just CPU load but also disk and graphics load that adds to the heat. Maybe if you try to shut of the Aero interface? I found that TpFan helps me understand what is increasing the heat. In my case for instance I have most problems when using my X61 docked with a large display connected.
Mats
Thinkpad T400s, X61s, X41, 600

HP Pavilion dv7 overheating issue

Recently, i bought myself a HP Pavilion dv7-5000ev laptop with a HP Renew warranty (+ 2 year HP Care Pack).
First time in, the operating system was Windows 7 Professional 64-bit.
Almost immediately, I found that it was overheating. A prime number calculation stress test + SpeedFan temperature checking showed that cores exhibited extreme temperatures (not falling below 98-99 degrees Celsius). Even after terminating the stress test, the temperatures dropped very slowly (about half an hour, down to 65 degrees, and stopped). I got a suggestion, that a BIOS update would do the trick. It did do the trick (i updated the BIOS to the latest version, provided on HP's official driver download site), but only in terms of half a degree Celsius.
I sent the laptop back to the store, they replaced the Beats Audio speakers and what they called, the "cooling module". Again, i installed Windows 7 Professional 64-bit, did the stress test again, and temperatures didn't go over 92 degrees.
The problem is, that it is a little too hot, when idling. It was the same even before updating BIOS and sending it away for maintenance. Even when installing software (which, in my opinion, shouldn't be that much CPU intensive), temperatures boost up to 75-80 degrees.
Is this normal? Is it normal for my laptop to be idling at 60-65 degrees Celsius and jumping to 80, when doing nothing more than installing random software?

Here is what happened with my HP DV7 7047 cl. It has a manufacturers defect in it, that I fixed myself. I bought mine at SAMS CLUB in the summer of 2012. It is a i7 beats edition DV7 notebook, I'm guessing the same thing is happening with HP's line of DV6 and DV7 laptops. Mine has a nvidia GPU in it, but they also come with ati radeon GPU's. It isn't surprising they are taking them off the market right now.
If your laptop has 2 vents, and the one in the back is not blowing air through it then your laptop possibly has the same problem mine had, and you need to take it to replace the inner fan piece which was designed for only one vent. The way it works is both of these vents are made out of aluminum and are separately connected to the CPU and GPU. The one to the side is your GPU one. The aluminum vent in the back cools your CPU. If your CPU isn't getting any ventilation then your laptop wont last long and could possibly start a fire. Here is how I fixed mine by myself. And how you can fix yours too.
Before taking it apart call HP Support and ask them if you can open it up to "clean it". They will give you permission so it doesn't void the HP warranty.
My laptop would reach between 70c, 80c, 90c, even 100c and would get extremely hot, but wouldn't overheat. And I was concerned because my laptop is only 3 months old. It would get very hot. So I decided to take it apart and see what was going on inside. I followed the instructions on HP's website, they have online guides and manuals for taking your laptop apart and putting it back together. If you need instructions on finding your manual for your laptop then email me at [email protected]. Doing this fixed my laptop entirely. It never gets hot now, it runs faster and can play games at their maximum settings. The CPU will stay only at 60c, 65c at its tops. It's like magic.
Here is how you can surgically correct your faulty laptop fan. You're going to make an opening in the fan, cutting a bit of plastic off, so that the other vent to your CPU can get ventilation, if worst comes to worst, you can jot down the name of the fan on the sticker and go to HP's website and order a new piece to replace it for like 50 bucks.
What you need is...
A small screwdriver
A tiny screwdriver
And (optional) some thermal compound to replace your cooked old compound. Mine was like chalk, I replaced it and it helped cool down my laptop by like 10c. You can get thermal compound at Radio Shack, and the silver stuff is the best.
First open it up carefully, take your time, and take out the motherboard. Its the big chip with the fan connected to it and the aluminum vents.
Next, If you're planning on replacing your thermal compound, then unscrew the bolts on the heat sinks and take the big metal pieces off the chip, place your motherboard chip to the side. Now take the piece with your heat sinks, fan and vents connected to it, and turn it around.
Next unscrew the 4 or 5 tiny bolts behind the fan. So you can take the inner fan piece out. Notice its shape, does it have an opening for your other vent? If not, then make one. Cut an opening in the plastic, the size of the other vent. I used a knife carefully angled to cut the plastic off. Once I cut it, I just bent it off the bottom to take it off. Place the fan back into its frame and screw in the tiny bolts.
Now replace your thermal compound. You can use a Q tip with the cotton off of it, to scrape off the old gunk - then clean it with a slightly wet Q tip. You can use a little rubbing alcohol but you shouldn't need much. Next put a drop of the new compound on the heat sinks and the chip. Using some plastic wrap on your finger even it carefully on top of the little silver parts where the old stuff was.
Now you're good to put it all back together. Gently place the heat sinks on the chip and don't move them while you screw the heat sinks back into the chip.
Carefully put the laptop back together and you're done.
Here's a picture of my fan, and how I fixed mine. I didn't bother to take the piece out when I took the picture cause those tiny bolts are a PAIN to take out with a knife when you don't have a tiny screwdriver.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/1001711d.jpg/

Closed lid clamshell overheating[?]

Hi, I have a macbookPro late 2009 running Mountain Lion OS, I started to use the computer in Clamshell mode where so far I was aware about ventilation issues hearing here and there incidents about overheating and stuff concerning using the computer with closed
Iid, are there any particular problems with that nowadays and any precaution actions I should be aware before I roast my machine ?
As far I can tell now relating on posts opinions are controversial.
I am an audio proffesional and sometimes I am using it full day with no break.
Thanks
K.

Can't be done. Unplug USB devices before closing the lid.
Should that happen again, you can force a hard restart by pressing and holding the power button for a few seconds.

Apple Macbook Pro 13" Late 2013 Overheating

Hi,
After purchasing my first Macbook Pro around a month ago I was having issues with overheating, specifically when playing Football Manager 2014.
After taking the laptop to the Apple store and explaining to them that after running a program recommended to me by someone on here the temperature of both CPU's was around 80 degrees. The guy seemed quite shocked that a game such as Football Manager was making the laptop so hot.
I replaced the laptop for a brand new model there and then but unfortunately I'm still having the same issues. I have the model which I believe retails at £1,249.
I can be playing the game for less than 10 minutes and can feel the heat on top of the laptop, around the vent area (just above the F9, F10 keys).
I'm running Football Manager on minimal graphics settings and I am running just 3 leagues.
Although not as quite severe, I am experiencing 'warmer than normal' temperatures when streaming content online.
Any suggestions or help (other than purchasing a cooling pad) would be great.
Many Thanks

Hi sabin6912,
If you have concerns about heating issues on your MacBook Pro, you may find the following article helpful:
Mac notebooks: Operating temperature
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1778
Regards,
- Brenden

Addendum/correction to MacBook 2007 mid-year overheating

I wanted to correct the tag for this post and also to say that I've been an Apple user since 1984. Never had a problem with any of the batteries on my laptops, but I also generally replace a laptop after about four years. This one is pushing the limit and I am trying to squeeze all I can from it, but I am concerned that the battery may begin to leak. As far as I can tell, the buckling is only on the cover of the battery and not the battery itselt. Clearly an overheating issue, but only now starting to shut down the computer.
Thanks again.
Leatha

I wanted to correct the tag for this post and also to say that I've been an Apple user since 1984. Never had a problem with any of the batteries on my laptops, but I also generally replace a laptop after about four years. This one is pushing the limit and I am trying to squeeze all I can from it, but I am concerned that the battery may begin to leak. As far as I can tell, the buckling is only on the cover of the battery and not the battery itselt. Clearly an overheating issue, but only now starting to shut down the computer.
Thanks again.
Leatha

DV7 Pavillion Overheating

I have DV7 3112sa, just out of hp warranty,
Unit overheating, fan constantly on, noisy even when unit is closed. Unit hangs etc, can't shut down so often have to resort to removing and re-inserting the battery pack to power up computer again. Have recently had heatsink replaced to no avail. I have to be extremely careful that unit is turned off completely due to overheating it has caused buckling to my countertop due to excessive heat.
Obviously its a MBD/fan issue.
I am quite surprised that HP has not issued a recall notice on this product, judging by the amount of posts regarding the issue, there is a serious health and safety concern. I seem to recollect a major multinational computer manufacturer not so long ago recalling all battery packs due to the possible fire hazard risk associated with the overheating of their battery pack, in and out of warranty..

Hi,
Please try few tips to make it cooler:
http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/technology-blog/keep-laptop-cool-172740363.html
Regards.
BH
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Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Mini overheating

Hello,
Just trying to canvas opinion. I've discussed this with Apple Support, and have had no real help. Very unlike Apple, but I'm very disappointed.
Ever since I've had my mini (6 months or so) the fan has been running loudly and noisily almost constantly when it was on. Using it as a DVD player in my lounge was near impossible as you couldn't realistically watch the film because of the noise.
I put this down to the small size of the mini, and so having to force air through it to keep it cool.
That was until the mini wouldn't run for any longer than 10 minutes: shutting down through (suspected) overheating due to fan failure.
Then I took a look at the base of the mini, and noticed several "hot spot" scorch marks.
Not very happy with this, I contacted Apple care. They were indifferent about it, said I should take it to an authorized repairer to look at, which I did.
They said they could check it in to look at it, but that they hadn't seen the scorch marks before and so recommended that if I wasn't totally happy to go back to Apple Care.
Which I did, 1st guy very helpful, thought scorch marks were bad, put it down as a safety concern, passed me onto "senior technician" - who was indifferent again, said I should take it back to the authorized repairer to look again.
My point is that I dont think a) the fan should have been running as it was from the start, that b) there is some underlying problem c) scorch marks are worrying - what other damage is there internally.
All in all, my feeling is that the mac has been sold unfit for purpose.
But I'd like others opinions. Does your mini have burn marks on its base too? Perhaps this is a normal thing, and I shouldn't be so worried about it?
I'll take it back to the repair shop. Fed up now though, haven't been able to use the mac for about a month due to faffing around with this and not always having the opportunity to get to the repair shop!
Cheers!
Richard.

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
The first thing to say is that your experience with this system is not at all common. Most minis, both the original G4 and the present Intel models, run sufficiently quietly that to all intents and purposes in anything other than a very quiet room, they are silent. What this would clearly indicate is that yours is not a typical system, and indeed, being highly untypical, it is not hard to extrapolate the conclusion that it is faulty, regardless of the ambivalence exhibited by Apple staff with whom you have spoken.
The Apple service provider should have taken the system from you and offered to repair it rather than give you the runaround and expect that you should continue to pursue the matter on the phone. However, since they did not, I think the time has come that you should take the rights bestowed on you by the various consumer protection laws in the UK and contact the seller from whom you purchased the system and state that they are responsible for resolving the matter to your satisfaction - the seller in UK law is the party responsible for addressing the issue.
Given that other minis run quietly and do not shut down as a consequence of overheating, it is not a matter of generic design but of a defect in your system, which may be a simple one to resolve if an approved service provider opens the system up, or which may warrant a replacement system. If you gain no immediate and satisfactory traction in dealing with the seller, contact your local trading standards office and ask them to assist you. They are the people tasked with enforcing consumer rights under the Sales of Goods Act.

Anyone else seeing their MBP's shut down due to overheating and no fans?

I have a 2 month old MBP that overheats and locks up when playing World of Warcraft in OS X. The processor temp will get to 100-105 and the MBP locks up and requires a forced hard boot. The fans don't spin up - they stay at 2k.
Also, on the Windows side (64 bit Vista), the upper left hand corner of the chassis gets extremely hot - again no fans spin up.
I have resorted to using smcFanControl to manage the fans in order to prevent overheating. I have seen many people post about this exact same problem on these boards - does anyone have any advice? I am concerned that I am frying the hardware over time!
I called Apple tech support and they say they have no knowledge of this being an issue.

No problem here, at first my fans were stuck at 2k regardless of the temps. I reset the SMC and that (at least for me) fixed the problem.
While I use and advocate the use of smcFanControl, I recommend that you get your laptop repaired (or replaced). Now with that said, there seems to be quite a number of threads of WOW users who complain about the heat being generated from using that game and likewise, it seems pretty evident that using Vista means your laptop will be running hot for what ever reason.
If your fans are not ramping up beyond 2k in OSX, then that's not right, if its running hot in vista or playing WOW then that might be another issue.

Overheating concern.

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