PowerMac G5 with Kensington SSD - Don't always start ?

Hello,
I have a powermac G5 that ran just great and wanted to give it a bit more speed. So I got a Kensington SSD hard drive and installed it on with MacOS X. Problem now is when I go from a cold start (having to press power on on the front of the tower) it sometimes turns on and sometime does not. When it does though, it really rocks.
What is the issue and what do I need to do resolve this. To be honest, I do not know what I do to get it started. I just press the start button repeatedly and sometimes kill the main power on the power bar.
Thanks
Eric McCann

Could be the lead free solder problem & only starts when warm???
If you're sure the RAM is good, try the Hair Dryer trick...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=13240047#13240047
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15223603#15223603
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15499912#15499912
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15613068#15613068
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3270112
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16053892#16053892
It can show on any G5, and even many other computers & electronic devices of the period.
http://www.macintouch.com/reliability/pmg5.html
http://lowendmac.com/ppc/power-macintosh-g5.html
And see this last one in particular...
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16781690#16781690

Similar Messages

HT1533 My MacBook has crashed...it started with capitals letters sticking and always starting in safe mode and now despite efforts to restore from my Lacie externall drive I can't get anything on screen except a grey "stop" sign

My MacBook has crashed...it started with capitals letters sticking and always starting in safe mode and now despite efforts to restore from my Lacie externall drive I can't get anything on screen except a grey "stop" sign

Sorry just noticed I've probably posted this under the wrong forum header

Macbook Pro 2012 with 240GB SSD or Macbook Air 2012 240GB SSD or Macbook Pro Retina

Macbook Pro 13inch 2012 240GB SSD Specs:
2.5GHz Dual-core Intel Core i5, Turbo Boost up to 3.1GHz
4GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM — 2x2GB
500GB Serial ATA Drive @ 5400 rpm
SuperDrive 8x (DVD±R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW)
240BG Mercury Extreme Pro 6G SSD
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Overall Price $1600+Tax
or
Macbook Air 2012 13inch with 240GB SSD SPECS:
1.8GHz Intel Dual-Core Core i5, Turbo Boost up to 2.8GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3L SDRAM
240GB Auro Pro 6G Solid State Drive
Turbo Boost up to 2.8GHz
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Overall Price $1600+Tax
or
Macbook Pro Retina 15inch 2012 256SSD Specs:
2.3GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3L SDRAM
256GB Flash Storage
Intel HD Graphics 4000
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 1GB of GDDR5 memory
Overall Price $2199+Tax
orMacbook Pro Retina 13in 2012 256SSD Specs:
2.5GHz Dual-core Intel Core i5, Turbo Boost up to 3.1GHz
128GB Flash Storage or 256 Crucial m4 256GB 2.5 inch if possible to upgrade
2.5GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Turbo Boost up to 3.1GHz
8GB 1600MHz memory
Intel HD Graphics 4000
I'm looking for a laptop that will last me a couple of years which is why I'm upgrading to SSD without losing performance. I usually game on my Mac so I want a laptop to handle that, handle programs in the background and writing or reading without losing speed, I also need a laptop that has fast boot time.
I will be using the laptop mainly for school and running programs such as iWork and mircrosoft office as well as websurfing and video streaming thanks for any advice.

I hope others pipe in with their comments, but the first suggestion is to visit your local Apple Store and try out the units. Trying them out can make a difference in your decision.
This is how I'd try to make sense of this:
MBP 13 2012:
Solid all-purpose portable at a decent price, and even has a 240GB SSD. If you don't load it with tons to videos, this will more than fit your needs as a student and websurfer. A little heavier than the others here, but it's a solid package that's stable. Great if you need to use the CD/DVD.
MBA 13 2012:
Also good, similar specs, notably lighter. Notes are easy to take, and easier to carry on long campus treks. If you're not near a power source, the battery life may be a concern. If you need a CD/DVD, you can connect it when you need it - but it's extra. Servicing a MBA is more difficult.
MBR 15 2012:
Beautiful display, packed with performance. No DVD/CD drive, NVIDIA performance is unproven, kind of pricey, the first generation of a device; it's going to get better over time. Can't be serviced in any way by the user; the Apple Store is your only option. Now's not the best time to get the MBR.
MBR 13 2012:
Same comments.
I'd say the MBA is a good pick. Few moving parts, therefore more reliability. Low heat. You can always attach a CD/DVD drive via USB. Intel Graphics is solid; no problems there. Plenty of capacity for your needs. And the display is bright. MBA 13 or 11, IMO.

Is getting a MacBook Pro with an SSD the same as getting a MacBook Air with Flash?

Im gonna be getting my first macbook soon, and i'm trying to decide which to get. First off, I'm waiting for the new MBA's to come out to see what they come with, and the new processors. But I was wondering if i were to get the base 13" MBP with the SSD, would that be practically the same machine as the Base 13" MBA (the new ones with SB processors when they come out) with 4gb ram (if they don't come with it already) ?? I really like the idea of having that type of storage. And what will be the difference in the processors? Also, does anybody have any thoughts on if the new MBA's will have a standard 4gb ram instead of 2??

If they also have the same storage drive, operating system, graphics and everything else, both freshly installed with OS X, the non-Retina would be faster because it's rendering less pixels to the monitor, which increases the graphics speed overall.
However your likely to not notice the difference too much, unless you used both extensively using a 3D testing program or your frame rates on your 3D game.
Determine your Mac's ability for 3D games
I honestly can't tell too much between my non-Retina and my friends Retina display.
He wished he had the ability to upgrade his storage drive and memory like I can with my non-Retina, also to have a cd drive.

Dual Boot Selection with two SSD Installed

I have two SAMSUNG SSD's installed in the W540.
SSD #1 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
SSD #2 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
The SSD's had a complete install of each Microsoft Windows operating system without using the dual boot manager. I select teh SSD to boot from by using teh F12 key at boot time.
On my previous computer (HP EliteBook Workstation 8560w), the BIOS had a option to display a boot selection menu for me to select from without having to manually select the option to display. The boot selection menu gave me 20-30 seconds to select a alternative boot option. If I did not respond it woudl boot to the primary drive.
Can the Lenovo W540 be setup the same way? I can find no options in the latest BIOS.

I am honestly dubious that your previous HP machine had anything in the BIOS to provide this "Boot Manager" functionality you've described. Your description is exactly what Boot Manager in Windows does, which probably what was in effect on your HP machine.
Now you say you installed two separate versions of Windows on two separate drives, and without involving Windows Boot Manager. That suggests to me that you unplugged the other SSD when you did each install, so that the Windows installer didn't even know about the other bootable OS when doing its current install. If it had seen the other pre-existing bootable Windows, then the second install would have triggered the creation of a 2-OS boot menu (identical to what you say you saw on your old HP machine). You could still have two bootable Windows, on two separate drives (or, you could also have installed to two separate partitions on one drive if you wanted to), and at boot time Boot Manager would present the menu to you and you'd select one or the other. The most recent Windows to get installed would probably have made itself the "default", so that after 10-30 seconds it would auto-boot to that Windows if you didn't arrow up/down and press ENTER to select the other Windows for this particular boot.
The BIOS of the machine has a "boot sequence" setup, and one of your two SSD drives MUST be first, in front of the other. So at boot time by default (in the absence of F12 to select a boot device) the BIOS would normally go to THAT "first" drive in the boot sequence list, locate the "active" partition on that drive (where Boot Manager is assumed to live), and start the boot process. If Boot Manager sees a 1-OS boot menu, it just goes to that partition (as C, where Windows lives on that drive) and starts Windows. If a 2-OS boot menu exists, Boot Manager presents it to you and you decide which Windows you want to boot to.
When you push F12 at boot time, you simply say to the BIOS "let me pick which of my drives I want you to go to, to then find the "active" partition on that drive to kick off the boot process". Since you did two completely independent Windows installs, I would say that you probably have a "system reserved" partition (which is marked "active") on each SSD, along with a C system partition (for Windows) on each SSD. So you can actually boot to either drive, via F12, or you can just let the machine boot to whichever one you know to be first in the boot sequence list.
But... if you'd simply installed your second Windows to the second SSD while the first Windows/SSD was still cabled and visible, the second Windows install would have done everything you're now asking to be done. The existing 1-OS boot menu (on the first SSD) would have been seen and updated by the Windows installer, to add the second Windows to the menu which would thus now be a 2-OS boot menu. The second Windows would get installed wherever you wanted it to get installed (i.e. to the second SSD), and all would be well with the world.
Note that had this taken place, no second "system reserved" partition (marked "active", and housing the second copy of Boot Manager) would have been created on the second SSD with the second installed Windows. The existing "system reserved" (marked "active", and living on the first drive in the BIOS boot sequence list) would simply have had its boot menu updated from 1-OS to 2-OS, and you'd be home free right now.
This is exactly how Boot Manager works. I'm sure your old HP machine had such a setup, with your two Windows installed sequentially over time, and with the second one recognizing the first one's existence and adding itself to the boot menu to produce a 2-OS boot menu which is what you saw. That wasn't from the BIOS. It was from Windows Boot Manager handling a 2-OS boot menu.
So, what can you do now? Well, technically, you only need one "active" partition (i.e. "system reserved", where Boot Manager lives) on the first SSD in your BIOS boot sequence list. You won't need the second "system reserved" which in my opinion was probably created (unnecessarily) when you did your second Windows install with the first SSD temporarily disconnected.
But the goal here is to get the 1-OS boot menu that's on the first SSD "system reserved" partition updated, to add the second Windows on the second SSD, producing a 2-OS boot menu. And to do that you can use a wonderful 3rd-party product named EasyBCD. It is a tool to maintain your boot menu, and you can manually do things after-the-fact (like now) which you should have done before, or simply to perform maintenance or changes.
So, with both SSD's cabled and operational (your current booted Windows will appear as C, and probably your other drive's Windows partition will thus appear as D to the current booted Windows), you run EasyBCD. It really doesn't matter which Windows is on the first SSD and that is first in the BIOS boot sequence, only that it will be the boot menu in the "system reserved" partition on that drive which will be manipulated by EasyBCD to become the 2-OS menu. You can make either Windows the default (which will auto-boot in 10 seconds if you don't select the other Windows), no matter which SSD it's on.
You can view the current boot menu (from the currently booted Windows) via EDIT. You pick which entry is to be the "default".
To add a new entry to the boot menu, push the ADD button and navigate to the drive (D) the Windows to be added lives on.
If you don't already have same, I would recommend you have a "system image" backup of both of your bootable Windows drives (to an external USB 3.0 drive, ideally), so that if you're skittish about doing this you'll at least be able to quickly and easily restore what you currently have from your backups.
But believe me, EasyBCD can be trusted to do exactly what you want to do... which is to create a 2-OS boot menu on your first drive's "system reserved" partition. This 2-OS boot menu will name BOTH of your two bootable Windows, from your two SSD drives. You won't need to push F12 to select the boot device, just let the machine go to the first drive in the boot sequence and kick off Boot Manager, and the rest will behave exactly as you are now seeking.
Let me know if you have questions. And for sure, let us know how it turns out.

Frequent issues with supplied SSD in 17" 2011 MBP

Hi all,
Perhaps someone can help?
I've recently (in the last couple of months) been having problems with the SSD in my early-2011 17" MBP. The model of the SSD (from System Profiler) is APPLE SSD TS256C.
The problems eems to occur after emptying the Trash when it has files of large sizes in it (video files of 1 or more GB typically). I empty the Trash, and the available space showing for the drive gets bigger,a s expected, but then when I try to make use of the drive (for example by copying files from another drive to it) I am told there isn't enough free space (when there clearly ought to be).
Example from earlier today:
I had 60GB available.
I put around 30 GB of stuff in the Trash and emptied it.
Available space now shows 90GB free.
I try to copy 75GB from an external drive onto the SSD, but am told there isn't enough free space.
In a attempt to fix the problem, I did what I have done on the 3 previous occassions: Restart the computer, hold down Cmd+R and run Disk Utility from there. Here I can repair the SSD (as it has the OS on).
This is what Disk Utility showed me:
Verifying volume “Hard Drive”
Checking file systemPerforming live verification.
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Incorrect block count for file Hospital Records - 100k YouTube Subscribers.mov
(It should be 11029 instead of 144729)
Incorrect block count for file Netsky Live - Backstage at the Electric Brixton.mov
(It should be 12062 instead of 606074)
Incorrect block count for file Netsky Live - Lotto Arena 2013 Promo.mov
(It should be 7177 instead of 135443)
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking catalog hierarchy.
Checking extended attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Volume bitmap needs minor repair for orphaned blocks
Checking volume information.
Invalid volume free block count
(It should be 11712443 instead of 10811938)
The volume Hard Drive was found corrupt and needs to be repaired.
Error: This disk needs to be repaired using the Recovery HD. Restart your computer, holding down the Command key and the R key until you see the Apple logo. When the OS X Utilities window appears, choose Disk Utility.
I ran it a couple of times (as on previous occasions) until no errors were reported.
On previous occassions, upon restarting, things went back to normal, but this time I am still being told there is not enough free space, though Get Info shows 121GB available.
So I have some questions:
What is going on?
Why does this keep happening?
What can I do to solve my current issue?
What can I do to stop this from happeneing again?
Many thanks in advance...

I'd totally forgotten about this until I got a notification that you had replied.
I no longer have this problem.vaguely remember calling up Crucial (who make my second SSD) and they said something about leaving the machine on, but not doing anything on it for 24 hours or something. So it has to stay switched on, not go to sleep (dim your screen though) and don't touch your keyboard or mouse for a full 24 hours... maybe it was a bit longer... maybe it had to be at the login screen (can't remember)... and in this time it will run some automatic repair thing.
It was so long ago I really can't remember the spcifics - but have a hunt around for things to that effect. Or call Apple/Crucial and mention what I've just said, see if it makes any sense to them and get them to advise the exact corect procedure.

IMac G5 (iSight) with 10.4.11: Screen always dimmed. Starts at full bright and a second later dimms and stays like that forever. Brightness controls work normally under this circunstance. Please help !!!

iMac G5 (iSight) with 10.4.11: Screen always dimmed. Starts at full bright and a second later dimms and stays like that forever. Brightness controls work normally under this circunstance. Please help !!!
Please don't tell me to adjust anything on the preferences, since I have tried all. I think it may be anoter kind of problem, maybe hardware related or anything.
I ran the Hardware repair DVD and everything was ok, but when the imac restarted the screen was very lit again, but when it went sleep, when it went awake again the screen got dimmed again. Because of that I think that the problem could be software related, but who knows. Excuse my english.

I can't see another possible answer - the longer your machine is up, the more the power supply is stressed, it protects itself by dimming the screen to lower the draw on it.

Lessons learned replacing ThinkPad HDD with an SSD

Installing a Samsung SSD on my 3 year old ThinkPad W510 was easy. Getting Windows 7 set up took me days.
Here are some lessons learned so you can do it faster.
Backup
Lenovo Rescue & Recovery will back up files to a USB 3.0 disk but it took 10+ hours and it put several files and folders at the top level. Can it back up multiple disks (HDD and SSD)? Probably not.
Backup
Windows 7 Backup & Restore doesn’t have those problems backing up data files but when trying to save a disk image to an external drive that’s > 2 TB (with 4K blocks), it runs for a while then fails. The generic error message and event log are not helpful, costing hours of debugging.
SSD “frozen”
Some web sites say that an SSD will perform better if you fully erase it before installing the OS, but when I tried to do this, the Samsung Magician software said the SSD was “frozen.” Apparently this is a confusing way to say it’s locked from erasure. Magician’s workaround recommendations didn’t help. Magician’s PDF guide has alternate workaround recommendations (like turning of AHCI mode in BIOS) but I didn’t find them soon enough.
Clone the HDD or install fresh?
Restoring Lenovo’s factory disk image onto the SSD (instead of cloning the HDD) fixed accumulated problems but it took several days of work and problem solving. (The HDD’s hidden SYSTEM_DRV partition was full. Did that cause some of the problems?)
How to over-provision the SSD
“Over-provisioning” boosts an SSD’s sustained write performance by allocating temporary space. The Samsung Magician program will set this up -- but not on a drive with the Lenovo_Recovery “Q:” partition. Moving and resizing C: and Q: with GParted Live didn’t solve this. Instead it made me start all over restoring the factory disk image and the Windows Updates and Lenovo Updates. The solution (thanks, Samsung’s phone tech support!) is to use GParted or Windows Disk Management to shrink the C: partition. All it needs is some unallocated space between partitions anywhere on the SSD. (Samsung recommends 10%.) You don’t have to do anything to allocate that space to the purpose.
Partition alignment
For speed, you want the partitions aligned on a 4096 byte boundary. GParted will align them on a MiB boundary, which is more than adequate.
Windows restore points
The Windows installer is supposed to make system restore points but I found it started out with a broken configuration. So open System Properties, the System Protection tab, and check the “available drives” for any drives labelled “... (Missing)”. Turn off “system protection” (restore points) for the “missing” drives, then turn it on for the real C:.
Faster updates
After restoring Lenovo’s factory disk image, you must iterate installing Windows Updates and Lenovo Updates over and over until there aren’t any more to install. Fortunately this is faster on an SSD than an HDD. Save more time by having only one user account and no password so Windows reboot won’t stop for login. Also watch the taskbar for license dialogs that open up behind other windows but require your clicks to proceed.
Watch for stuck updates
Lenovo Update quietly gets stuck updating Intel WiFi & WiMax software. The fix is to download those installers from lenovo.com, run them, get an error message that it can’t install over the existing software, uninstall the WiFi & WiMax software, then run the installers again.
Restore from backup, or not?
At key points, I made system disk image backups of the SSD to the old HDD and tried restoring from a backup after the failed repartitioning experiment. But Windows Backup and Restore won’t restore a system image after booting from the destination drive’s recovery partition nor from the source drive’s recovery partition. Since my backup was on the HDD in the Ultradrive bay, I couldn’t boot from the Rescue & Recovery CD. The workaround was to make a bootable System Repair disk on a 512 MB USB key. Windows Backup and Restore then failed with another meaningless error, “The parameter is incorrect. Code: 0x80070057.” Apparently you have to remove the USB key right before starting the system restore operation but that yielded the error, "No disk that can be used for recovering the system disk can be found." I’m not sure if that’s a symptom of removing the USB key or yet another problem with Windows Backup and Restore. Maybe it can’t restore to resized partitions? Windows Backup and Restore failed and burned hours of my time.
Fix the annoying request on bootup?
After you install Windows, all its updates, and Samsung Magician, you can use Magician to adjust system settings for SSD performance. Then you’ll find that Magician needs permission to “make changes to this computer” on every boot. Samsung tech support explained that you can then remove Magician from the startup list via msconfig.
Optimizations
Recomputing the “Windows Experience Index” might make the OS recognize the boot drive as an SSD and disable defrag for it. This didn’t work for me, so be sure to unschedule defrag. Also use msconfig to remove Digital Line Detect from the startup list and turn on “No GUI boot” (no Windows splash screen). Also use power plans Advanced Settings to never turn off the “hard disk.”
ThinkPad
Thumbs up. Easy to replace the HDD with an SSD and move the HDD into an Ultradrive caddy. Sturdy. Easy to work on. Well documented. Hardware that I didn't want to replace.
Microsoft Windows 7
Thumbs down. Buggy, fragile, over complicated, inadequate error messages, painstaking to install, difficult and time consuming to administer, poorly documented, accumulates gunk over time that causes problems, failed backup software, even a fresh install has scary event log errors.
Lenovo forums & support pages
Very helpful. Sometimes it's good to use Use Google to search them e.g. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Alenovo.com+"over+provision"
Samsung 840 EVO SSD
Fine hardware. Some confusions around the Magician software. Great phone tech support. Web support doesn’t work.
References and more info
How To Geek, Lifehacker, Lifehacker, SSD Review, Newegg, Newegg, Anandtech, Storage Review.

I may have confused you: Lenovo provides two tools, 1) one makes DVDs that restore the original out-of-the-box factory image of the entire disk (i.e. System partition, C: + Q: partitions) and 2) Backup and Restore, which is the Lenovo user backup tool that does conventional full disk backups, i.e. with all user customizations, added programs and files. Since my system-generation-to-SSD saga hadn't created the the Q: partition correctly, my only alternative was to create a full up-t-date disk backup with the second Backup and Restore tool that include all the Windows + Lenovo updates, but didn't include extra programs and my user files. This fitted on 5 DVDs, which I will use if ever I reinstall the entire operating system.
Once you get above 100-150 GB of backup volume (I'm at 450 GB right now), the Lenovo Backup and Restore is very slow, so I use the much quicker Windows built-in Backup and Restore program to backup incrementally a system image and all files.

A600 Replacing SATA HDD with SATA SSD

I have reviewed the current knowledge base materials, but don't see one directly tied to my problem. Appreciate any help received.
My current HDD has been making a lot of noise lately, at least much more than I have heard in the past. It's a little over 5 years old. I bought an Intel 730 series 240G SSD, and have tried to use that drive as my primary drive, replacing the current one. I used Intel's cloning software, which took a while, but appeared to be successful. My problem is that the BIOS does not recognize the new drive. Looking in the BIOS, my SATA drive 0 now shows "None", and the screen at power-up fails with "No Boot Filename received". Is there an issue with the BIOS not recognizing newer SSD's? I've read other inputs saying that people have been successful in powering up via new SSDs, so I thought it could be done. Anyone have any thoughts? Appreciate it.

Thanks Caveman31 for your thoughts. I checked the BIOS, and this model has very limited BIOS options, which don't include any options for SATA control. There are probably 1/2 of the options in my Lenovo A600 BIOS, then in my generic PC (ASUS motherboard) I put together a couple years ago. It has a menu option for SATA control, located in the "Main" tab of the BIOS screen.
Unless there are some other options, or a way to get more control with this BIOS, I won't be able to select between AHCI or IDE regarding the SATA control. Do you know if that's the only way for me to replace my HDD with a SSD for this computer?
Thanks for your help!

Lenonvo T440 with Intel SSD SC2BF240A4L - failing to install apps via SCCM 2012 task sequence

Hi there
Wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue with a T440 with Intel SSD hard disk.
Our firm purchased two Lenovo T440 laptops. One has a magnetic hard disk, the other a SSD hard disk. Here are the models:
SSD hard disk: Intel SSDSC2BF240A4L
Magnetic hard disk: 500Gb 7200rpm HTS725050A7E635
We deploy our Windows 7 build via a SCCM 2012 task sequence.
Building the T440 with the magnetic hard disk was trouble free. I built it repeatedly, and encountered no errors; our core applications installed successfully every time and the task sequence completed successfully every time.
All well and good.
Building the T440 with the Intel SSD hard disk has been frustrating. When I run the task sequence on this machine, 8 times out of 10 the task sequence will fail, either stopping abruplty at installing Oracle Single-Sign On or Appsense agents. When the task sequence fails it is ALWAYS at one of these two apps.
Frustratingly, sometimes the task sequence will complete successfully on this T440.
Given we successfully deploy this task sequence to a variety of different hardware from different vendors, including other Lenovo laptops, I can only guess the Intel SSD hard disk is the culprit.
Has anyone encountred anything like this? I've went through the smsts.log file and other SCCM log files and can find nothing obvious. That this ONLY happens on the T440 with the SSD suggests to me the issues lies in that direction.
I'll swap disks in either T440 to see if the other T440 fails also with the SSD aboard, to see what happens.
Meantime if anyone has any information about this issue I'd be grateful if you coud share.
Thanks
CT

Does the install provide any logging? Does execmgr.log show any other info?
Per the readme, it should be setup.exe.
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles/girc15ww.txt
Unattended Install
This is for system administrators' use only.
1. Refer to the Manual Install section, and download and extract the file.
2. In the step 11 of the Installing files section, uncheck the checkbox next
to "Install ..... now", and then select Finish to cancel installation.
3. At the command line, execute Setup.exe with the -s option.
Example: [Path where the files were extracted]\Setup -s
Daniel Ratliff | http://www.PotentEngineer.com

[SOLVED] XFCE always starting with the US keyboard

Hi guys.
Recently I came back to XFCE and I have one problem: it always starts with the keymap set to US. I have to manually change it to PL (which I need) with setxkbmap. Also, when I'm using the panel plugin I cannot choose any keymaps other than the currently selected.
What can I do about it?
Last edited by JeremyTheWicked (2008-10-12 21:49:56)

The way I deal with the multimedia keys is that
1) figure out what keycodes they generate (run 'xev' and do some presses)
2) assign the correct name to them via xmodmap
maybe 3) use xbindkeys to let them do what they should do (but this is probably not necessary, DEs like xfce should be able to act just based on having a correct name assigned to the keypresses)
the xmodmap stuff:
~/.xmodmaprc wrote:keycode 144 = XF86AudioPrev
keycode 153 = XF86AudioNext
keycode 162 = XF86AudioPlay
keycode 164 = XF86AudioStop
and then have 'xmodmap ~/.xmodmaprc' executed at X start (again, some DEs do this automatically, some don't)
But! maybe figuring out the correct option for your keyboard might render all of the above steps unnecessary. I don't know a good place to look for the options, except closely inspecting the contents of /usr/share/X11/xkb - there's a lot of stuff, but that's for instance where I found out the possible variants for the us keyboard.

Tetris always starts with the same blocks

Has anyone else noticed that the first game in Tetris after launching it always starts with the same blocks? For me, it always gives me the red "Z" block, the yellow square, the green "Z", orange "L", purple "T", blue straight block, blue "L", and so on. Every time. Without fail. And although my second game starts with something different, all second games always start with the same sequence too (purple "T", orange "L", yellow square, green "Z", red "Z", and so on).
Seems to me like whoever wrote the random number generator used by Tetris did a very poor job. Hopefully EA creates a version 1.1 to fix this, and Apple makes the update available for free to people who already bought Tetris. I find it hard to believe that something so obvious made it past QC.
PowerMac G5 Dual 1.8 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 5G iPod 60GB

Definitely agree about the need for a 1.1 update. The random generator and also the fact that, on my iPod at least, if I am listening to music and playing at the same time, whenever there is a change in tracks, the game locks up for a few seconds and I can't see the piece and it ends up dropping some place unexpected. This desparately needs to be fixed as many a 12th level game has been ruined because of this.

Replacing 2011 17" i7 MBP 128gb SSD with 13" MBA with 256gb SSD?

Hi Guys,
Looking for your input.
I'm now using the 2011 17" MBP i7 with 128gb SSD as my only machine.
I'm using it mainly for my Adobe CS5, Streaming HD content to my PS3,
Parrarel, Torrent, Surfing and iphoto/itunes. With occasional steam games.
I've just put the order for 13" MBA, with i7 and 256gb SSD.
Will be fast enough to replace my MBP and do the tasks above?
Will it be much slower? I don't do video renders.
The reason I'm getting the air is that I'm travelling regularly.
Also I will hook it up to the new 27" thunderbolt Display.
Thanks for your input.

CS5 is a pretty intensive application, and so is Parallels. I still think you'll be okay with CS5, but Parallels runs sort of slowly on my 11 inch Air. So, I installed my Windows in Bootcamp where it runs a lot smoother, and is a better overall experience. I'm not saying you can't used parallels with the Air, it probably just won't run quite as smoothly as it does on your 17. However, it will be able to handle the remaining tasks you listed with ease, I really do think you'll like it a lot more than your 17 inch pro. The new Airs are just so likeable- there's nothing I can find wrong with mine. I have a 15 inch Pro (2011, Thunderbolt, 2.2 GHZ) and ever since I got my Air last week I've used the Air 80% of the time and my Pro 20% of the time. It's just more enjoyable to use, and even though I'd never let go of my Pro because of how powerful it is, I know I'm going to continue to use my Air more.

I have downloaded the latest version of icloud control panel to a PC with Windows 7. My "master" data is always on my PC. With other synch software I always select "One Way Outlook to Device". I synched icloud with Outlook and it has trashed my Outlook

I have downloaded the latest version of icloud control panel to a PC with Windows 7. My "master" data is always on my PC. With other synch software I always select "One Way Outlook to Device". I synched icloud with Outlook and it has trashed my Outlook with duplicate contacts. Is there a solution. Is there selective synchronisation available?

Make sure you don't have any notes that have no content or subject or this can prevent syncing with Outlook. If you do, delete them.
If you don't, try unchecking "Mail,Contacts,Calendars & Tasks with Outlook" on the iCloud control panel for Windows, choose Delete at the prompt (the data will still be in iCloud), restart your PC, then go back and check this setting again. (Your iCloud data will reappear in Outlook after a brief delay as it redownloads.)
Then create a new note on one of your iOS devices and see if it appears in the Notes folder in Outlook mail after a few minutes.

Help.. Please..Replacing a Spectre 15t hard drive with an ssd

I posed this question a couple of days ago but did not make myself clear enough. I’ll try again…
I purchased a Spectre 15xt touchsmart just before Christmas. I ordered the 128 gig ssd drive upgrade because no larger ssd drive was available and the salesman assured me I could upgrade to a larger drive later. As it turns out, the upgrade to the ssd drive replaced the 32 gig boot ssd with a larger 128 ssd and just eliminated the hard drive.
I have two questions.
If I had purchased the Spectre with the hard drive, instead of chosing the ssd upgrade option, could I have replaced the hard drive with a standard sized ssd drive? If so, I can send the laptop I have back and get one with a hard drive and replace the hard drive with a standard ssd drive (I only have a limited time to do this). I’ve called tech support a few times and get varying answers.
If the only way to increase drive space is by increasing the size of the msata ssd, can I use any brand of msata drive. It comes with a Samsung MAMPC128HBFU. Samsung also makes a 256 gig (MZMPC256HBGJ). Will the larger Samsung drive work? Can I replace it with another brand, say a Crucial m4 256GB ssd (CT256M4SSD3?

xreyuk wrote:
Thanks for the information.
I'm assuming if the fault is found with the new SSD, that's not covered?
Yes that is correct. Any issues with a 3rd party SSD need to be addressed with the manfacturer of the SSD.
What about if replacing the HDD, with the SSD, is responsible for another fault?
I'm sorry, I don't understand the wording of this question. Try asking the question in your native languge, and I will see if I can use a translation program to help me better understand what you are asking

PowerMac G5 with Kensington SSD - Don't always start ?

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