Recording LPs

Hi, I just bought my MacBook today, and I'm completely new to the whole Mac world, so please bear with me. I'm used to recording vinyl on my old PC, so I'm trying to figure out how to record on my new laptop. I'm having trouble getting the input sound to play. I have my stereo receiver plugged into the stereo input jack, and I went to the sound utility and made sure that the input device is selected. The volume meter is showing that it is detecting sound; however, I'm not hearing anything from my speakers, and likewise, I can't get it to record anything in Garageband. Any ideas of something I'm missing?

I too am having trouble importing my vinyl. I have a Stanton STR8-80 digital turntable with SPDIF out. I have connected that to an M-Audio Firewire Solo recording interface, at the recommendation of the guys at The Guitar Center. I have set the 'hardware interface' of the M-Audio control panel to 44,000 Hz sample rate, the sync source to 'external', the spdif output source to 'mixer' and the core audio device settings to 'show Solo's stero pairs as devices.' Under the mixer control panel I see the 'spdif in' panel with the bouncing green bars when I put a record on, but I get nothing out of my computer, and I don't see anything in Garage Band when I try the advice from Bulletsandbones. I have m-audio desktop speakers connected to the headphone out jack on the 24" iMac, and the speakers otherwise work (ie, itunes, etc).
Under the Audio MIDI setup, I have the default input as Firewire Solo S/PDIF 1/2, and both the audio input and output are at 4.1 and the only, pre-selected choice is 2ch-24bit.
However, I can't hear any music, nor see anything in the garage band screen when I select the basic track choice.
Sorry, if complicated, but I am frustrated after spending many weekends trying to get this to work.
Thanks,
Daniel

Similar Messages

Software for recording LPs

I'm searching for a decent program for recording LPs and transferring them to CD through iTunes. I had a good program on my PC that had excellent scratch and pop filters, but it doesn't work with OS X. Any recommendations for good, not-too-expensive programs? Must connect via a stereo cable from my stereo system.

I wanted to run the files through a scratch and pop filter if possible
Final Vinyl has some good filters when you import before adding to iTunes. It's easy to get carried away with the filters so don't attempt to do too much.
before committing them to CD
Getting them onto the computer is the difficult part (and it's not really that difficult).
In iTunes, burning a CD is as simple as creating a playlist then click Burn.
You can tweak the files as much/little as you want before you burn them to a CD.
"Committing them to CD" sounds so final. If you don't like it, you can always burn another.

Recording LPs on my Macbook

(I was able to do this on my PC, but it was a royal pain in the butt to drag my turntable and receiver in the office, hook it up, and blah, blah, blah.)
Is there a way to record my analog LPs to save into iTunes and thereby transfer them onto my iPod? I did this on my PC through programs such as Roxio and Nero, but wasn't sure if there was an easier, more direct way through my new Mac without having to purchase or download more software. Sure would like to be able to do this on my portable, so I don't have to haul the turntable into my office anymore.
Many thanks!

Yes. See my tip here
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=491236&tstart=0

Recording LPs with smart recorder and sound quality off.....

Hi,
I have X-Fi Extreme music card on my PC and trying to record some LPs with SmartRecorder. These are classical LPs and I find that when played back, the orchestra (violins, choir, etc) sound like this was recorded in a tin can. Any ideas why this would be? I connected all my cables accordingly and?am still?getting this problem.

Which type of connection are you using there?
Do you have preamp stage w/ RIAA there before soundcard (you have connected the PC into your stereo system just the way
like you connect a casette recorder or you have connected your turntable w/ RIAA preamp directly into soundcard) or
have you connected your turntable (w/o RIAA + preamp) directly into soundcard?
If you're using the latter method, you need to have EQ w/ RIAA compensation added into signal (you need some ASIO/VST
capable recording software which allows you add FXs into signal (Hermann Seib's VSTHost) and an EQ capable for
compensation curve +20dB (20Hz) - -20 dB (20 kHz) (ddmf:IIEQ). It's possible that you
can't get levels set high enough w/o adding some gain plug-in into signal path. You can use Sonalksis FreeG VST (stereo)
for this (in VSTHost, place (route) the FreeG either after or before the EQ (try which works better for you)).
Also, check if the recording source is set correctly (w/ "What U Hear" option you get all added effects added
into signal (EAX, CMSS) so it's best to set input as Line-In) and turn all effects OFF.
If you record into lossy format as mp3 or wma, check that the bitrate is set high enough (I suggest you use bitrates
256 - 320). Also, do not use addons like Chrystalizer, etc..
If needed some software, http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpost.php?p=282263&postcount=7
jutapaMessage Edited by jutapa on 05-08-200704:02 PM

Recording LPs with Intel iMac

I want to digitize my LPs, 45s, and 78's onto CDs and MP3 files. I have seen in Consumer Reports that this is possible with a special turntable and software. Before I invest, does anyone have any insights or recommendations for doing this?

Washac wrote:
As has been said if you have lots to do, or value your vinyl steer clear of those USB decks.
Absolutely. If you have a vinyl collection worth preserving, you probably also have a better turntable, phono cartridge and phono preamp than could be expected in an integrated turntablecartridge+preamp+A2DUSB package. Much better to use your existing audio system and spend your money on a higher quality audio-to-USB interface.
I haven't been shopping for one lately, but a quick "google USB audio" found this VERY interesting candidate. $125 from amazon.com. (As usual, the German site has the most complete specs.):
http://www.tascam.com/details;9,15,70,14.html
http://www.tascam.de/en/us-144.html
A 24-bit A-to-D is a huge plus for working with stuff like vinyl LPs. You can set the recording level very conservatively (to avoid digital overload), and still be assured of getting at least 16-bit (CD-quality) dynamic range.
I have no experience with this product, but TASCAM is the pro-audio division of TEAC, and has been a major player in the recording industry for nearly 40 years. There are also many other USB-audio interfaces -- from big names in audio such as Edirol (Roland), M-Audio, Emu, etc. They're all likely to have much better A-to-D converters than a "USB turntable" -- and a general-purpose USB/audio interface can be used for all sorts of stuff beyond digitizing vinyl.
Looby

Recording LPs into my computer

How do you input audio from a turntable to record onto the computer? I have an HP G71-34OUS Notebook.

Here is a link to an article in PC Magazine with a reasonable explanation of digitizing music from LP records. You can find schematics of interface amplifiers that will do that in electronics magazines online. You can either make them yourself if you have a bit of tech talent or buy them premanufactured.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

What is the best way convert lps to digital on Mac

I've been getting completely awful audio using an Ion USB turntable (via Audacity and Lame) to record on a Mac OS 10.2.8.
Can you recommend another way that will convert an lp into digitial via a Mac? iMic? Below is an e-mail I sent before that got n response -- it details my problem with the Ion USB turntable.
Previous e-mail that got no response.
Macsters: Is the Ion turntable supposed to be plug in play when it comes to recording lps on a Mac -- in my case a 10.2.8 with a G4 tower. I plug to USB cable directly into the tower, use the Audacity software and get some of the worst sounding audio you can imagine.
I tried the turntable downstairs with my regular stereo console and speakers and it sounds comparable.
I've had a bunch of e-mails from the Audacity support group but they can offer support but no solutions.
Is the Ion turntable simply not what it's cracked up to be. With Audacity, I cannot control the input volume. Adjusting the gain in the back and the tone arm with needle hasn't made any difference either. Any ideas?
Paul in Chicagoland

For LP to Cd I used line out from my stereo's amp to the line in of my G4 tower, and then used audio software such as Amadeus or Peak to record. Works fine.
I can't help but think you have some basic setting wrong. Or maybe the Ion's drivers (did it come with drivers?) need a more recent OS than 10.2.8.
Isn't Lame for converting to mp3? Try going to aiff first, and see how the quality is.

Splitting .wav Files from LPs in WaveStu

Hi,
Does anyone know how to split a large .wav file using Creative WaveStudio? I haven't been able to find out how in the help files or online knowledgebase.
I have a SB Li've! 24-bit and have successfully recorded LPs to .wav files in 96kHz/24-bit resolution (I plan to take advantage of the higher resolution afforded by the DVD specification over normal audio CDs and make music-only DVDs). I've been capturing whole sides of LPs and now need to split the resulting file into tracks.
I can think of two work arounds:
) record one track at a time.
2) make individual tracks from several copies of the large file.
But it would be easier to just be able to split the large file into individual tracks. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

if you only deals with STEREO 24/92 files then wave studio should be able to split them easily.
if you're dealing with multi-channel 24/96 files then I think Goldwave isn't able to process them correctly (it's not indicated it supports multichannel files in the product description).
If you plan to play your records on a PC only, then why you do not compress them with Windows Media codec (lossless for 5./24bit/96kHz, or Professionnal for 7./24bit/96kHz max). You'll be able to fill more your compilations without any hearable audio loss (with the lossless one yes).
Windows media encoder can do this very well, as well as indexing its media formats.

Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
(not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
- have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
-using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
- So, will need iMic from Griffin
-will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
-Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
connect turntable to iMac via iMic
put record on the platter
launch Audacity
start the turntable
tell Audacity to record into a non compressed format (so I can use ClickRepair).
after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
As what? AiFF, Apple Lossless?
Any and all advice appreciated.
(This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
The short version of what needs to be done is this:
* Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
* Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
* Clean the vinyl LP
* Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
* Record
* Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
* Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
Here is the long version:
*Hardware:
I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
* RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
* Clean the vinyl LP:
First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
*Set up the Software:
For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
- Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
- Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
- Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
- Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
* Record:
If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
* Edit:
If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
"CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
* Import into iTunes:
After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
Hope this helps.

E-MU 0204 for Vinyl Recording: Missing Sampling Rates Using Windows 7 Drivers?

Hi all,
Just so you know, the primary use for the E-MU 0204 is to convert the mounds of LPs I have into digital format (either 88.2 or 96 kHz sampling at 24 bit). Having said that, I'm going through a lot of growing pains with the E-MU 0204 unit I just purchased. The specs of my setup is as follows:
-Windows 7 Pro 64Bit 8GB ram
-Stanton T.92 USB (with internal preamp removed)
-Shure M97xE cartridge
-ART DJ PreII Phono Preamp.
As far as I can tell, the E-MU drivers are properly loaded onto the OS and in the Device Manager>Sound, and video game controllers, windows correctly identifies the unit as a "E-MU 0204 USB".
From the specifications of the unit here:
"Sample Rates: 44.1, 48, 88.2, 96, 176.4, 192kHz from internal crystal (no sample rate conversion)
Bit Depth: 24-bit I/O, 32-bit processing
USB Hi-Speed
- Full 24-bit resolution at all sample rates
- Stereo in, stereo out at all sample rates"
Yet, in the "Recording Devices" of my OS, I get only the following choices:
-2 channel, 16 bit, 88200 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 16 bit, 96000 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 16 bit, 176400 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 16 bit, 192000 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 24 bit, 44100 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 24 bit, 48000 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 24 bit, 96000 Hz (Studio Quality)
-2 channel, 24 bit, 192000 Hz (Studio Quality).
The 44.1 kHz/16 bit, 48 kHz/24 bit, 88.2 kHz/24 bit, and 176.4 kHz/24 bit modes seem to be missing.
My preferred choice for recording LPs is to use 96/24 for LP music that I know will not be burned onto CD, and 88.2/24 for LP music I know may be burned onto CD in the future at some point.
Am I missing something here? Please help!
I'm pretty new to this whole E-MU interface stuff, so I appreciate your patience in advance.
Thanks kindly,
Andrew

dgoh88 wrote:
okay just got home, turned the PC back on and now all the sounds are distorted again. Tried completely disabling wireless ports, still the same. About to throw in the towl already
There can be other high priority prcosses as well.
Keep trying with DPC Latency Tool ...
Also, you could try by
- turning off all visual effects of O/S (incl. Aero)
- turn off indexing service
- launch perfmon.msc / system monitoring tool to see which processes uses CPU/etc.
If you already uninstalled XP then why not install XP as well (dual boot system). Most audio interfaces works better on 32-bit XP compared to Vista/W7 & 64-bit systems.
jutapa

Maximum audio sample rate and bit depth question

Anyone worked out what the maximum sample rates and bit depths AppleTV can output are?
I'm digitising some old LPs and while I suspect I can get away with 48kHz sample rate and 16 bit depth, I'm not sure about 96kHz sample rate or 24bit resolution.
If I import recordings as AIFFs or WAVs to iTunes it shows the recording parameters in iTunes, but my old Yamaha processor which accepts PCM doesn't show the source data values, though I know it can handle 96kHz 24bit from DVD audio.
It takes no more time recording at any available sample rates or bit depths, so I might as well maximise an album's recording quality for archiving to DVD/posterity as I only want to do each LP once!
If AppleTV downsamples however there wouldn't be much point streaming higher rates.
I wonder how many people out there stream uncompressed audio to AppleTV? With external drives which will hold several hundred uncompressed CD albums is there any good reason not to these days when you are playing back via your hi-fi? (I confess most of my music is in MP3 format just because i haven't got round to ripping again uncompressed for AppleTV).
No doubt there'll be a deluge of comments saying that recording LPs at high quality settings is a waste of time, but some of us still prefer the sound of vinyl over CD...
AC

I guess the answer to this question relies on someone having an external digital amp/decoder/processor that can display the source sample rate and bit depth during playback, together with some suitable 'demo' files.
AC

Can't drag songs into iTunes 8

I've been recording LPs (with Audacity) and converting them to CDs by burning the playlists in iTunes for years. I hadn't done it for a couple of months, and in the meantime iTunes was upgraded from version 7 to version 8. My procedure is this: I recorded in Audacity, split and name the tracks with the song names and export them as aiff files at 41.000kHz 16 bit. I then drag them into a playlist in iTunes from the finder and burn the CD. Now I cannot drag the songs into iTunes at all. I've tried using the command Add to Library, and that doesn't work either. I've checked that the songs are not locked, and I've looked at the Import settings in the preferences and set the encoder for AIFF. What's wrong here? Has Apple locked out users who want to do this?
thanks,
Jack

Funny how we´re doing and experiencing the same, although maybe not for the same reasons... I have been converting my old LPs to CD with Audacity on a WinXP box, soon gave up because of the flabbergasting speed of it (not audacity, the box...). Begin last month almost transformed the monitor into the flattest screen on earth; fortunately not, as I still needed it to order my first Mac, 5 minutes later.
I believe Apple wants us to drag and drop the AIFFs into the *Burn Folder* straight in the Finder now (right under Documents), which carries a convenient <Burn> button (top right) to burn everything in there on a CD. It works for me anyway, that´s how I´m doing since last week. Took me some time to find out though, grant you that!

Connect IBook G4 to Panasonic Stereo via iMic and Toslink to Mini Cable?

I don't have an Airport Express and I want to record from cassettes (and LPs with a higher quality input). The only output from my 5 year stereo (apart from the headphone jack) is an Optical out (which the manual says is for connecting digital devices and suggests you can connect a Mini CD player). What I want to know is can I connect a Toslink (optical) to mini cable (such as the Monster Interlink Lightspeed 100TM) from my stereo to my iMic and then the iMic to the iBook and then use the software I've tested with recording LPs directly from the turntable to the iMic to record the cassettes and any other output from the stereo? Hopefully someone will know the answer to this before I spend £40 on a cable. I phoned the Apple store and asked them and they really didn't know. I've also emailed Griffin Technology in the hope that they might know. I also thought I'd try posting on here to see if anyone knows.

Unbelievable but true! I've managed to solve the issue yesterday on my own.
For those who are interested and didn't find a forum that helped much, here is an easy manual:
Boot with normal Monitor using a normal DVI cable.
Start Teamviewer so you can follow the next steps on an iPad, iPhone etc.
Unplug normal monitor.
Now use a DVI cable with HDMI at the other end.
Plug in Panasonic Plasma TV by using the above mentioned cable.
Now the plasma stays black, no signal arrives. Look at the iPad via Teamviewer and open monitor settings.
This should show that the Panasonic has now been found.
Switch the resolution to 1280x720.
Tataaaaa!
The Plasma TV now proudly shows the content of your Mac Mini PowerPC. Play with further settings in order to optimize the display width etc. Set the TV to 16x9 manually.
Enjoy!

How to cut a single track into seperate songs

I am very new to Garage band and home recording in general. I recorded my band practice and want to pick the best songs into separate tracks to make a cd for everyone to practice with. I just used the computer mic and recorded a 2 hour practice as one track. Any help would be much appreciated!

skim down through the tute on recording LPs, you'll see how to do it:
http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/Tutorials.html#allabouttransferringlps

Garageband won't open at all now -- plus USB turntable issues

Applemeisters: I haven't used GarageBand in a couple of months. Now it won't open at all. The icon flickers for a couple of seconds on the dock and then disappears. I have a 10.2.8 operating system and about 3 GBs of hard disc space (I know, the usual remedy is to clear up more space, but I've had much less space and it's worked then).
Meanwhile, I bought an Ion turntable months ago and have tried repeatedly to record lps -- only to have very distorted sound, much worse than the regular stereo downstairs. Is the Ion supposed to be a plug and play with a Mac when you plug it directly into a USB port in your G4 tower? The Audacity software that is supposed to turn the lp into CD isn't doing its job apparently because the USB turntable sounds fine downstairs when I plug it into the console and speakers that play my o9dl fashinoned regular stereo.
Any help you can provide, I will appreciate. Thanks.
Paul in Chicagoland

The problems are caused by third party input managers/enhancers that have not yet been updated by their developers to comply with the standards used by Safari 3.2.1. and/or Safari 4.
In your case these are:
x7e3000 - 0x7e3fff com.aladdinsys.mmenabler 7.1.0 (99) /Library/InputManagers/MagicMenuEnabler/MagicMenuEnabler.bundle/Contents/MacOS/ MagicMenuEnabler
0x7e7000 - 0x7e7fff com.yazsoft.SDEnhancer ??? (1.0) /Users/peterdignam/Library/InputManagers/SpeedDownload Enhancer/SpeedDownloadEnhancer.bundle/Contents/MacOS/SpeedDownloadEnhancer
0x254a000 - 0x254dfff com.yazsoft.SDSafariBundle ??? (1.0) /Users/peterdignam/Library/InputManagers/SpeedDownload Enhancer/SpeedDownloadEnhancer.bundle/Contents/Resources/SDSafariBundle.bundle/ Contents/MacOS/SDSafariBundle
You fill find them in one or either of these folders:
Home/Library/Input Managers
Hard Disk/library/Input Managers
Hard Disk/Library/Application Support
although the exact location is indicated in your crash report as quoted above - look under 'Binary Images'.
Close Safari and delete them, then restart Safari and it should be working normally.
Check with the developers of the plug-ins in question for updates that are Safari 4 compliant.

Recording LPs

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