Saturation control in PP5.5?

How do I increase/decrease saturation in PP5.5? I found a saturation slider in Fast Color Corrector but it didn't have a lot of effect, leading to me to believe it may not be the best way to adjust saturation.
Another question I have, and which I can ask in a separate thread if necessary, is whether there are sliders to adjust saturation of individual colors as there are in Photoshop CC. In that program, there are sliders that allow me to adjust the saturation, luminance and hue of individual colors. I ask because I shoot a lot of GoPro footage (from a drone) and I alway find it yellow. I'd love to be able to reduce yellow only or, as in Photoshop CC, make it greener.

5.5 has color balance HLS preset in the effects tab, you should find that better.
RGB curves may also work better with your color caste.
It is often a case of using different correction effects or even multiple one.
You can also try the Fast Color correction preset, move the centre point directly away from the yellow which in your case is towards the 18 minute point if the dial is 60 minutes.

Similar Messages

Saturation Differences in LR

I just discovered yesterday that the adjustment brush in 100% saturation mode affects an image differently than using the saturation control alone:
Case 1: All adjustments default, Adjustment brush, custom mode, saturation 100, everything else 0
Case 2: All adjustments default, Saturation slider 100
The two result in different looking images. Could anyone explain why this is the case? With the specified adjustment brush settings, I would have expected it to behave just as the adjustment slider.
Thanks!

Well, the flow and density are both 100%. I just thought it was interesting, and wondered if any wizards knew what was going on behind the scenes. I typically never use the brush at 100% saturation (I rarely use it in color mode in general), so that is why I just discovered this yesterday (been using LR since 1.0).

IPhoto 08 Saturation Slider Flawed!

Hi,
Has anyone else noticed that the Saturation slider in iPhoto '08 makes absolutely no sense? It doesn't behave like a Saturation slider. In both Apple's Preview and Aperture, the Saturation slider works exactly like it should, just like Photoshop. The Saturation slider ONLY adjusts the Saturation. In iPhoto '08 however, as soon as you increase the Saturation above the middle point, your photo starts getting DARKER. This would be kind of acceptable if some of the other Adjustment sliders started moving too, such as the Levels or Exposure sliders. But they don't.
Why have Apple done this? Why make a Saturation slider that ISN'T a Saturation slider? If they'd called it something else, it wouldn't be so bad. But Saturation is Saturation. They obviously know how to make Saturation sliders because they've got it right in both Preview and Aperture, but totally messed it up in iPhoto '08.

While you observation is correct, I believe that this is how the tool is designed to work and, in my opinion, gives much more naturally looking results than the saturation controls in Photoshop.
Try to increase the saturation to the maximum in iPhoto and then do the same in Photoshop. In iPhoto this will result in an image that’s punchier but still retains the original hues to a large degree. In Photoshop however you will end up with totally oversaturated/shifted colour hues that look cartoonish, a very blunt method.
iPhoto’s approach is way smarter, preventing you from distorting the colours and also note, that it preserves whites just as they were before.
If you don’t like the general darkening, simply drag the Levels’ mid-slider to the left to compensate for it.

Mplayer too dark, Equalizer(Contrast,Brightness,Hue,Saturation)

Playing videos on mplayer were too dark!
and Equalizer -> Video (Contrast,Brightness,Hue,Saturation) controls were unavailable/not working!
After some research, I found a solution, for both problems.
Using information on this URL http://www.mplayerhq.hu/DOCS/man/en/mplayer.1.html
Open a Filemanager as root, and go to /etc/mplayer and create a file called mplayer.conf, and paste this code inside.
# Write your default config options here!
# eq[=brightness:contrast] (OBSOLETE)
# default:0:0
# eq2[=gamma:contrast:brightness:saturation:rg:gg:bg:weight]
# default:1.0:1.0:0.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0
# hue[=hue:saturation]
# default:0.0:1.0
vf=hue=0.0:1.0,eq2=1.0:1.0:0.1:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0
Remember to leave 3 empty lines at the end of the code, before saving.
Notice I changed the 3rd default value in eq2 from 0.0 to 0.1, this will appear as 10 in the equalizer.
This 10% increase in brightness gave me a brightness, similar to watching the same video in VLC.
Well I hope it helps someone else having the same issue. :-)

since front row just hijacks dvd player and such you should be able to change it in dvd player's preferances. are the tv shows from the itunes music store?

Extreme Saturation ? CS4

Hi, I used to be able to achieve an extreme saturation in video with the old editor i used (ULead Video studio) by tweaking the easy saturation controls..
Now with Premeire Pro CS4, i have used it for months, but ive never tried making my video extremely saturated which to me i love the look of..
How do i achieve such a look in Premiere Pro CS4 ? a step by step, or guidance would be much appreciated, muchas gracias !
(by the way i know that the video has to be well lit, sunny outdoors etc.. as ive done this before on ULead)

Use any effect with a Saturation adjustment. I believe the Fast Color Corrector is one.

A/B Color contrast in develop module

It would be really nice to hace a slider (or three, I'll explain) for "color contrast".
Threre is "contrast" slider that influences the luminosity basically. What I would want to have is a way to control color contrast while preserving luminosity as well as preserve color balance.
A single slider implementation
Basically the simplest way (but a bit crude) to do it would be with a single slider.
The slider defaults to 0.
Moving it to the right would be equivalent to the following photoshop procedure:
Change mode to LAB
Curve adjustment
Steepen both the A and B curves linearly (pull extreme points in and leave the curve straight, plus keep the center where it is to preserve color balance)
Leave the L curve alone
Apply
switch mode back to RGB
Moving it left would be the same, except the AB curves would be made shallower rather than steeper (rotate the curve clockwise instead of counter clockwise about the center)
A two slider implementation
Same as the above, except that you would have separate A and B sliders (you might call the tint contrast and temp contrast to be consistent with the color balance sliders, which are just like moving the center point of the AB curves)
A three slider implementation
Basically this is like having bothe the one slider ("overall color contrast") and the two sliders ("temperature contrast" and "tint contrast"). It's a bit redundant but having the single control there makes it easier when you simply want to globally increase the color contrast without being too picky about the two separate controls (I guess easier for beginners)

Not at all. The saturation control has quite a different effect that this, and much les subtle. Saturation just increases saturation without changing the hue. This actually changes the hue causing a separation in hues that is impossible to achive in any manuver you would to in RGB space. It drives colors apart rather than increasing their chroma.
Try it yourself on a few images (especially on images that have nearly uniform color, such as deserts or faces. You will see that this is an entirelty different thing than saturation.

How do I bring up color gradually on a slide?

I am new to Keynote and to making presentations. I have just about zero familiarity with Keynote tricks of the trade or lingo, so please keep that in mind if you answer my question.
I recently got as an e-mail attachment a PowerPoint presentation that when opened and played as a slideshow in Keynote gradually brings each slide up from no color (i.e., black and white) to full color, then instantly moves to the next slide without a transition.
How do I create a slideshow in Keynote to do that?
The PowerPoint slideshow I received is basically a series of color slides of nighttime cityscapes from around the world that look beautiful in Keynote as the color is brought gradually up from zero, over the course of about 10 seconds per slide. When I play the show in an ancient copy of PowerPoint (v. 10.1) that I have lying around, I have to click once for each slide to change it instantly from B&W to color, then again to move instantly to the next slide. The instructions that appear superimposed over the slides indicate that this is exactly how the show was designed to be played, so I assume what Keynote is doing (playing the whole show straight through without my needing to click the mouse, introducing the color gradually for each slide) is an "extra" Keynote is adding.
What I'm asking here is how to introduce the color gradually for each slide in the presentations I make. Also, can I do that just for an individual photo or graphic on a slide that has text elements and a background, as with a photo in the "Photo - Horizontal" layout. If so, how would I get this effect?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Kyn,
Thanks, that answered my question.
To add to what you said, I figured out the same basic thing on my own (though I didn't think of using a Build dissolve and was using a Transition dissolve). I discovered the easiest way to get the B&W version of the image was to make a slide with the image in color and then duplicate it. Selecting the image _in the first slide of the pair_, I used View menu —> Show Adjust Image to bring up the Adjustment controls and dragged the Saturation control all the way leftward to remove the color. Then for the B&W version of the slide, I set up the Transition in the Slide Inspector to use a 3.00 second Dissolve, with the Transition started automatically. For the color version, I decided to use a Shimmer transition with a 1.50 sec. duration, starting automatically with a 5.0 sec. delay prior to the next pair of slides.
All that is fairly easy to do, if hard to describe, and it produces an automatic slideshow in which all the photos move gradually from having no color to having full color, remain on the screen briefly, then do a Shimmer transition to the next photo.
Thanks for your help in confirming how this can be done!

Make a clip dissolve to black & white then back to color

Hi. How do I make a clip dissolve to b&w in the middle of it then back to color?
Message was edited by: Hoops24

Hi,
welcome to the forum,
Choose Color Corrector 3 way from effects>Color Correction.
Apply it to your desired clip> in the timeline place the playhead at the point where you want the image start to desaturate > click clip/load it in viewer and on the top of the CC 3 wheels you can see the playhead position. Hit the keyframe button (left-hand side of check box and eye icon)> move playhead in the timeline and position it at the point you want the image turn completely b&w and slide the saturation control to the far left. A new keyframe is automatically added. Move playhead forward>choose point from which b&w starts turning into color again hit the keyframe button> move the playhead forward to the point in timeline where you want full colors displayed again and bring back saturation (still in CC 3way) back where it was originally.
G.

A few more FCP X Bugs/Annoyances

Hello all,
I cannot thank the help and expertise from some of the members in the FCP X support community. Luis Sequeira and Tom Wolsky you guys are part of the reason why I am persevering with FCP X and am finding it to be the future of editing despite the many flaws it has. I was glad to find out I wasn't just one of a few who found some of the bugs and inconsistencies to be slightly more than an annoyance. Here are a few more that i've noticed and am wondering if anyone has found out why these issues exist and would care to add upon:
This one is for Macbook FCP X users. I don't have this problem on my tower or my 27" iMac so I am led to believe this is a deliberate (althrough strange and unwise) GUI design change from Apple. When I open up my color board on my 13" Macpro, I see my color board, exposure and saturation control just like I do on my desktops. I do not however, see the percentage change view/controls underneath. I cannot scroll down further, all I have to play with is the respective color, saturation and exposure "board" leaving me to use my eyes as my only trusted gauge for correction/change. Here's an image of what I see...
Notice no percentage gauge?
Here's another issue I have not been able to find a workaround for despite trying usual and predictable avenues in my attempts. It's not a huge deal, but being a keyboard shortcut junky, I find it annoying that I cannot press Command + E to export with my default settings on my macbook. The shortcut is not visible in the menu or when I hover my curser over the icon. Naturally, I went into my command editor to see whether i'd have to edit or completely create this shortcut on my own. The shortcut is definately still the same in the comman editor, but still no avail. I've input the keys to manually create this shortcut, still the same.
Here is what I see:
No matter what I do, when I press Command + E (I make sure i'm in the timeline) the shortcut doesn't work and I hear the sound that occurs when an incorrect or unvailable command/action occurs. Not a huge deal but still need to know if this is a legit bug or if it was intentional for laptop owners for some strange unidentifiable reason. I'm wondering if any other Macbook users are encountering the same problem.
I am about to mention these issues as well as a few others in hopes they can address them in future updates but wanted other peoples take on them. These aren't bugs as much as things I think would make more sense if corrected or improved upon:
Pressing CMD + 6 to open AND CLOSE the color board to make color adjustments. Once i am done making my necessary color/exposure adjustments, why can't i close this window with the same shortcut i used to open it? I can open the color board with CMD+ 6 but cannot close it with the same keyboard shortcut command. Same with CMD + 8 for audio enhancements, I can open the audio enhancements window with this shortcut but cannot close it with this shortcut. I have to close the entire inspector with the keyboard shortcut cmd 4 to close the window. Seems very counter intuitive and for short term projects isn't that big of an issue (like I mentioned i'm a keyboard shortcut fanatic), but becomes very annoying for paid, commercial work (which i've become accustomed to using CS6 for). When i work on my laptop I keep the inspector open when I need to maximize viewer space and would like to be able to have the color board close as conveniently as it opens without having to press cmd 4 to close inspector. Not that big of a deal but would like to see this fixed, wanted other people's thoughts?
Thanks again for your help, the transition to FCP X for things other than Facebook and short Instagram vids is coming about slowly but surely...
Anthony

Pull down the separator bar at the bottom of the color board to create more space for the percentages.
The color board and audio enhancements are parts of the inspector. You close the inspector with Cmd-4.
Cmd-E is the default export setting. It's assignable to any preset or custom export setting. Open Destination preferences, right-click on the setting you want and select make default.

Creative Ultra for Notebook, white balance not working??

After years of use with my Creative Notebook Cam Pro I decided to upgrade and get the Ultra for Notebook because it's a CCD and works better in lower light conditions.
The drivers install fine however I cannot adjust the white balance nothing changes when I click apply. I have both 98SE and XP drivers installed and it appears that the bug is present in both sets of drivers.
This is a big disappointment because using this cam indoor with artificial lighting is next to being useless. Furthermore there's no saturation controls included in the drivers so I couldn't reduce the colour to b/w even if I wanted to.
As a product that's been on the market for nearly 2 years I'm surprised that no bug fixes have been issued for this problem I'm sure it's been mentioned before here?
Does anyone know if CLabs will fix the problem soon because as it stands this product isn't worthy of my time or money.
Richard S.

It should be directly underneath the image preview - press the T key if it's not there.

Color clipping before highlights are clipping

I have pretty strange behaviour on concert pictures I import from my D700. Usually I import with camera profile Vivid V4. The concert pictures have strong reds due to the flood lights.
My camera histogram shows a slight clipping of the reds (even though I underexpose 1-2 stops).
After import of the RAW files using Vivid V4, the histogram in Lightroom looks strange, and also the controls behave strange:
- a strong red spike in the histogram at about 1/5th away from clipping level
     (the picture in Lr shows blown out parts in red)
- hovering over different areas of the pictures and checking the percentage indicator underneath the histogram
   shows significant areas of 100 % red, even though there are still tonal differences in those areas
- moving exposure to the right: the histogram content left to the spike is shifting as expected, but the spike is growing and staying at 1/5th, nothing is appearing to the right of the spike
     (more areas in the picture are blown out)
- no other basic control can flatten out the spike, even not the highlight slider
- only the saturation control has some influence, and also with the tone curve I can fill the histogram,
   but picture is still looking blown out
The situation improves a lot by using Camera Neutral V4, the red is more spread out in the histogram,
also beyond the 1/5th the highlight clipping level. Significant areas in the picture are still at 100 % but less blown out.
Basic controls are behaving more normal, and it is possible to fill the histogram by increasing the exposure or other controls.
The question is.. is this unintended behaviour of Lightroom, or is is as good as we can get it with the strong red colors,
and is it better not to use Vivid V4 in these cases?
Cees Wouda

This has been an ongoing question of mine too for a long time now. Some people tried to explain, but either they didn't really understand it, or I was too dense to get what they were saying.
In any case, if you click 'Soft Proof', you can usually see that there are tones present that are *not* being displayed in the Lightroom histogram, but *are* affecting the controls.
more info here:
http://feedback.photoshop.com/photoshop_family/topics/lightroom_4_the_highlight_wall
PS - I think the reason it's worse with vivid is:
* it's contrastier (brighter highlights)
* it's more saturated.
Some work-arounds:
* reduce saturation, and increase vibrance instead.
* use the RGB curves.
* change the hue and/or saturation of the red channel (or whichever channel(s) offending most) (in camera calibration section) - you may have to finesse some other coloring to compensate...
* use split toning to add anti-color to the top end, then change the white balance and/or desaturate to compensate.
* Edit photo color using DPE (beware it does not allow control of color based on luminosity - maybe v1.0?).
PS - I wish one could control color based on luminosity in Lightroom too (maybe better still to be able to define an auto-mask based at least partly on luminosity, then you could tweak other things as well...).
Rob

Photos oddly colored in iDVD

I asked this question in the Final Cut Express forum but received no answers, so I'll try here. I have iDVD 7. I made a video in Final Cut Express, exported it as a QuickTime movie, and dropped it into iDVD, which automatically created several screens to deal with all my scene (chapter) markers.
I created a custom Theme by dropping digital photos into the backgrounds of the Scene Selection pages. The photos looked fine in both Photoshop and iDVD. These same photos were also used in parts of the video.
But when the video was burned to a DVD, many of these photos on the scene selection screens now look oddly colored, the colors overly saturated and exaggerated, for example some of the people look badly sunburned.
The odd thing is, as I said these same photos are also in the video, and they look fine there; it's only on the menu screens created by iDVD that the colors look odd.
It seems to me that iDVD is processing the colors of these photos differently than Final Cut Express does. Is there some way I should be preparing these still pictures before I drop them into iDVD, so that the colors will stay normal?
Tom

Bengt, I have three TVs available to test my DVDs. Only on the smallest and cheapest do the photos look acceptable, and only barely. On the other two TVs, and especially the largest and most expensive one, they look overheated and oversaturated,quite unnatural.
I would agree with you Shippey that it is a monitor calibration issue, but I have two large monitors connected to my Mac, each with different calibration profiles, and the photos look fine on either one of them. They also look fine in the video. Only on the iDVD scene-selection pages do they look odd.
So, here is what I'm trying right now: I went back into iDVD and replaced all the pictures with ones that have been partly desaturated in Photoshop. I went into Photoshop's Hue/Saturation control and pulled down the saturation until some of the color was removed from each picture. Then I put those pictures back into the scene-selection screens of iDVD, and I'm presently burning a fresh DVD (actually a disk image, to start with). I won't know the results for a few hours yet, because I'm using the Professional encoding setting and it takes a long time for iDVD to process that way. I'll report back the results after I burn a new DVD later today and try it out on the TVs.
At least I have learned from you that iDVD is not supposed to require any special kind of Photoshop file, or some "broadcast safe colors" version of a file or something. It is supposed to do it correctly just as I did it--straight out of Photoshop. Why it doesn't do that is still the question.

Can you change import settings..? Getting poor quality AVCHD Lite results.

Further my earlier post regarding AVCHD Lite (.mts) clips being too dark after import, I have established that it makes no difference whether I use values of 1.8 (10.5 native) or 2.2 (10.7 native).
Is there any way to affect the iMovie import settings that I've missed...?
iMovie has some excellent clip adjustment tools, but if I let iMovie import my clips at Full Quality (they are 720p AVCHD Lite .mts format clips from a newly purchased Panasonic FZ38), and try to use the video adjustment tools to 'lift' the clips – i.e. adjust exposure, brightness – the results are terrible, with blotchy areas and loss of definition. It seems the Quicktime conversion to get the clips into iMovie loses all detail in the shadowy areas, which obviously can't be recovered.
I've found a temporary workaround by converting the .mts clips using a third-party video converter which has brightness, contrast and saturation controls – a little boost on both the brightness and contrast is all that's needed to get the clips coming out the same on my Mac as they do on camera LCD (and TV playback off camera) - but I'd much prefer not to have to resort to an extra piece of software.
Is this a 'problem' with iMovie (and indeed Quicktime's) support for the relatively new AVCHD format that we may see 'fixed' in time?
Any other thoughts or advice would be much appreciated!!

I'm not sure if this is the cause, but there is a difference in the way iMovie 08 handles the video after import, as compared to iMovie HD6, the older, better version. Something to do with the interlacing? or something, but I'm not sure. Some people here think HD6 produces a better quality image than 08.
Oftentimes too, the image you see on your monitor will not be the same as you see on the final DVD product.
Anyway, you are entitled to a free download of iMovie HD6 from the Downloads page of this Apple website. Maybe get that and see if the picture is better.

Shades of gray in a color photo

I'm trying to change the color of a white door in a color photo in order to experiment with some shades of gray. I selected the door and tried playing with the hue/saturation control, but that didn't work. I created a new layer with color blend and painted various shades of gray, but there was always a color tint to it.
Is there a way to change the mode of the selection ONLY to grayscale?
---Kenny

Using PE2. Make your selection, then click enhance, adjust color, remove color.

Converting shades of green to shades of red

I have a few icons with colors ranging from white to dark green...
Is there a way to convert those icons to a range ranging from white to dark red...automatically ?

One way might be to load them into an app that understands the format of icons - e.g., Irfan View - and swap green and red channels. That might work
under some conditions.
In the general case, assuming you can get the icons in and out of Photoshop as images, you might consider using the Image - Adjust - Hue / Saturation control, select Greens, perhaps widen the color range a bit as needed, then move the hue slider so the greens become reds.
-Noel

Saturation control in PP5.5?

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