Sound software problems

i have a msi k7n2(nforce2), im having a problem with making the line in and mic jacks converting to rear out and sub/center out. i cant seem to get the nvidia nforce control panel to install. everytime i run the exe it says "failed to initialize the nvdia audion driver! please install and try again." what is going on here? iv installed the drivers from the nvidia website and msi website. the 2 front speakers work fine. im thinking about formating and installing win 98 c if it fixes the problem.
im running:
windows xp (service pack1)
xp2600
msi k7n2 (nforce2 chipset)
radeon 9700 pro
512 pc3200 cl2 mem
and a 60gig maxor hd
any help would greatly be appreciated, i just got some logitech z-680 speakers and i would really like to use all of the speakers

i am working in windows, i have it set to 5.1 speakers, and in the advanced tab in volume control i have the 2 checkboxes clicked. tho the software that it comes with wont install due to the error. do you have to have the optional s-bracket for 6 channel audio?, my friend has a aesus mb, and his line in and mic convert to rear out, and sub.channel. and the msi manual that came with my MB and the online manual say i can do this though the software, but the software wont install i keep getting
"Failed to initialize NVDIA audio driver! Please install and try again" and yes the driver is installed i tried doing this on win 98, win2k, and winxp with different versions of the driver. i get the same error all on OS's and driver versions, and to make sure the ports wernt dead i unchecked the sub/center speaker button in the advanced tab under volume control and plugged a mic in it worked fine, then i rechecked the box plugged the sub/center plug back in and no sound. do i need a new MB?
btw, my MB didnt come with the audio S-bracket, should it have? it has the pins on the MB for it, if so does any1 know where i can get it?

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When I phone people can hear me without any problem, but I hear very very bad. The sounds is metallic and it is very difficult to understand. Have anyone idea of what is it about. I guess is not a software problem but I am not an expert. Thanks in advance

When I phone people can hear me without any problem, but I hear very very bad. The sounds is metallic and it is very difficult to understand. Have anyone idea of what is it about. I guess is not a software problem but I am not an expert. Thanks in advance

Make sure that you allow pages to choose their colors and that you haven't enabled High Contrast in the Accessibility settings.
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Notebook moddel hp mini 110-3100 sound software

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Hi,
Please download and install the following driver on your machine:
ftp://15.240.238.51/pub/softpaq/sp48501-49000/sp48874.exe
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Audigy 2 sound card problems

I am hoping that someone out there can help me in a crucial situation.
I am using an Audigy 2 sound card with creative 5. speakers.
I also use Adobe Audition to edit, record sessions for my voice-over jobs.
Recently, I attempted to hook up a web cam so that I could see my grand daughter on the west coast.
After hooking up the web cam, I noticed my home studio environment changed drastically. I began having trouble with recording using my microphone through my Macki mixer. I began hearing a continuous hiss that I had never experienced before.
In fact after uninstalling the web cam, and restarting my computer, I got that horrible blue screen on my computer indicating the world was about to end! Smile
Long story short, I was able to finally get my computer back up, but I continue to experience problems recording "clean' audio".
Three things, after reinstalling Creative from disc several times and restarting my computer I receive a window stating Creative Media Source Detector.....Unable to load needed components....Please reinstall the application"
Also, when trying to test my sound hardware I get a message stating...Direct play voice setup..."an error occurred during direct play voice setup....error code 0x80004005
Last but not least I cannot access the "Creative diagnostic feature on my computer. I only get a small window for this feature that will not open up fully and allow me to run a diagnostic test!
I know this is a lot to absorb, but I cannot get anyone from Creative to address my problems because I am out of warranty and therefore not getting any love from this company.
Need your advice and or guidance on this.
Please respond when time allows.
Vopro

Re: Audigy 2 sound card problems? use add/remove programs and remove all creative software and drivers, then do the same for your web cam and unplug it
restart your pc
download and install [url="http://downloads.guru3d.com/Guru3D---Driver-Sweeper-%28Setup%29-download-655.html" rel="nofollow">driver sweeper[/url] and use it to clean up any left over creative bits and bobs and restart your pc when it asks you to
now download and install the [url="http://support.creative.com/Products/product_list.aspx?catID=&CatName=Sound+Blaster" rel="nofollow">latest audigy drivers[/url]
once your back in to windows try recording something and see if everything's back to normal
now reinstalling your web cam but don't reinstall using the cd that came with it
find the manufacturer's website and get the latest drivers
install cd's best avoided simply because the software and drivers they contain are typically the initial release versions, and so potentially very old
and i think we can all agree that old, buggy drivers can be a real pain

Officejet j6480 sometimes not printing entire image: printer or software problem or conflict?

Dell Inspiron, windows xp-pro, version 5.1 sp 3,
software: microsoft digital image 2006
I've been using digital image (DI) for several years and have never encountered this issue before now, but my printer is new and has some features I may not entirely understand.
I've created 4 separate images for a t-shirt transfer using DI. 2 images each are set up on an 8.5 x 11 layout, landscape mode. They were "cut out" and placed on each layout for printing. On my monitor, each image is a complete image: ie, no part of either image is missing or blocked out. However, when I print the document, sometimes part of one image doesn't print. The actual printed piece looks like an object or "blank" box was placed on top of the sheet of paper before printing, printed, and then taken off the printed paper leaving no ink beneath it.
DI allows you to cut out a photo and use the cut out with no background which is what I've done. The cut out follows the line of the object, dogs head, for example. The edges are not straight as if in a frame, however when the object is selected for editing, a dotted frame does appear around the edge. More than one object can be selected at one time and there can be an overlap of these frames, but once the object is deselected the frame disappears.
What really has me baffled is that the missing part of the image is squared off on two sides, is always in the same spot on the paper, completely different documents print the same way, you can see where the edge of the missing piece printed, but very light in color, and the document does print out correctly, sometimes.
Sorry to be so long winded. I'm trying to preserve the transfer paper since it is expensive and don't want to chance an incomplete printed sheet having to discard it and start over, hoping "this time it will work!"
Does anyone have any ideas? I know it sounds like a software problem but it also sounds like a printer problem, or both.

Hello @rslade , and welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience!
I see you're having problems printing in colour. I would like to help!
Do you have any issues making a colour copy, as opposed to a print?
I would suggest deleting the printer from your print system, using this document: Uninstalling the Printer Software.
Once you have deleted it, I would suggest verifying and repairing the disk permissions: About Disk Utility's Repair Disk Permissions feature.
I would also suggest running your Apple updates: OS X: Updating OS X and Mac App Store apps
After the updates, I would recommend reiadding the printer:
Installing a Mac Printer Driver Using Apple Software Update
Good luck and please let me know the results of your troubleshooting steps. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums!
Please click “Accept as Solution " if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks" for helping!
Jamieson
I work on behalf of HP
"Remember, I'm pulling for you, we're all in this together!" - Red Green.

HT1438 Ipod touch sound/jack problem

When using my ipod touch in the car, sound only comes out one speaker unless I press sideways against the jack. Same when using earphones.

- Try cleaning out/blowing out the headphone jack. Try inserting/removing the plug a dozen times or so.
Try the following to rule out a software problem
- Reset the iPod. Nothing will be lost
Reset iPod touch: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup
- Restore to factory settings/new iPod.
- Make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store. Seems you have a bad headphone jack.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
Apple will exchange your iPod for a refurbished one for this price. They do not fix yours.
Apple - iPod Repair price
A third-party place like the following will replace the jack for less. Google for more.
iPhone Repair, Service & Parts: iPod Touch, iPad, MacBook Pro Screens
Replace the jack yourself
iPod Touch Repair – iFixit

Pearl 9105 Keyboard Fault or Software Problem?

Hi,
I have had my BB Pearl 9105 for about 3 months now, it my first BB and I am overly impressed with it as it does everything I need and more. However I have noticed over time that when I am writing text (either email, or SMS or anything that uses text input), I find that when I push a key once, the equivalent letter or number will output multiple times.
For instance if I set numlock on and press the number "2" once, it will write "222". This sometimes happens on other letters on the keyboard also, but the worst is mainly when using key 2.
I have done a reset by removing the battery when the device is on, and that temporarily fixes the problem, however after a couple of hours it goes back to outputting multiple letters or numbers.
Has anybody else seen this? I would have thought this problem was actually something physically wrong with the keyboard, but it moves around randomly and can happen to any of the keys or multiple keys at once, which suggests a software problem to me?
Any help would be much appreciate. My details are below. Thanks and regards,
Jamie
BB Pearl 3G 9105
V5.0.0.689 (Platform 6.2.0.54)

It sounds like what I have seen multiple times on a device with moisture damage.
Even sitting on a bathroom counter during a hot steamy shower or bath can cause keyboard and trackball problems UNTIL properly dried out.
It really is more common than you think.
1. Remove the battery immediately!! Do not attempt to turn on your BlackBerry.
2. Let the device dry in a warm, dry place for 3 to 5 days* (see below)
3. DO NOT "check it each day" by placing the battery in. Leave it be to dry completely. This takes time. Replacing the battery to check it can only damage it more (moisture + electrical current = disaster).
3. If the device is warm after the drying period, allow it to cool to room temperature before placing the battery back in.
*Suggestions on drying your BlackBerry in a warm place (open, with the battery out):
Place the BB in a container of dry UNcooked rice, and then you might also place it in any of the locations mentioned below.
On top of any dry heat emitting electronic component: TV cabinet or CRT, LCD, cable TV/Satellite converter box or plasma monitor
On the dashboard of your car on a sunny day
1. If any post helps you please click the below the post(s) that helped you.
2. Please resolve your thread by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!
3. Install free BlackBerry Protect today for backups of contacts and data.
4. Guide to Unlocking your BlackBerry & Unlock Codes
Join our BBM Channels (Beta)
BlackBerry Support Forums Channel
PIN: C0001B7B4 Display/Scan Bar Code
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PIN: C0005A9AA Display/Scan Bar Code

K7N2 Delta-L: sound software utility?

K7N2 Delta-L: sound software utility?
I want to set the back panel to 6 or atleast 4 channel audio, however the manual says that after you've run the nForce driver setup there should be a software utility you can run to set onboard audio options. The only audio options availiable though are the windows XP default. I've reinsalled the drivers, but the software is not loading. I'm sure this is a common error and would like your input. Thanks

Alright...I'm an Idiot. For any other idiot, a link to the thread with the solution is below:
SOLUTIONthe thread with the solution is below:

Kernel panic but software problem

Kernel panic (the "You have to restart your computer" message at startup) is said to come from hardware problems but this seems to be a software problem - maybe somebody can help me!
It started slowly with the fans coming on more often than ususally. Then, I had some kernel panics at startup, usually after two or three false stars, the system would load. Hardware Test said everything was OK, Disc Utility corrected a few permission errors, but the problem persisted. I tried everything: Disconnecting everything, removing PCI card, you name it, nothing helped.
Only thing that did help was start over. "Archive and install" was not good enough, I had to start from zero. Which means that all my iTunes library and all the rest waas lost. Made a disc image on an external HD and went for it.
After that, I upgraded to 10.4.11 and tried the migration assistant. Left some of the programs out from the old installation, but took my Documents folder with me. Imported my iTunes library and iPhoto pictures. Until then, everything was perfect. After that point, the fan started its strange behavior again, and today guess what: You have to restart your c.!
So it must have to do with the programs and data that I imported, and not hardware. Have no idea though - anyone run into similar problems?
Apart from standard apps, the only thing I use is Cubase but I haven´t touched it for a long time.

Hi, thanks for your reply! I am now trying to rebuild everything using 10.4.7 ... seems the driver for the audio card (m-audio) was at least causing problems. I´ll see if it was the only one. I did the system updates whenever they popped up in software update but there wasn´t even a driver available for 10.4.11.
If that´s not it, I´ll try to use your tips! Thank you!

HT4060 My first generation Ipad won't allow me to charge it by the mains socket. This was a replacement as my origional Ipad had a software problem. I have rebooted it a number of times but still not charging. Any advice?

My Ipad 3G has decided not to charge. I have been using the same charger that came with it which worked perfectly until a few days ago. I have even tried to charge it using my incar charger, but it still won't charge up. This Ipad is a replacement as my first one had software problems, so I am hoping this can get fixed and not result in another replacement.
I will be grateful for any advice.

The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
In rare instances when using the Camera Connection Kit, you may notice that iPad does not charge after using the Camera Connection Kit. Disconnecting and reconnecting the iPad from the charger will resolve this issue.
 Cheers, Tom

MacBook Pro 13" Early 2011 Backlight Keyboard Not Working?! Software Problem...

So my "MacBook Pro 13" Early 2011" backlight keyboard hasn't been working. I have tried LabTick today, doesn't fix anything. Even in high or low lighting situations (dispite the Adjust keyboard brightness in low light being off) doesn't like to go on. It doesn't give me a circle with a cross like it does with that box checked in day light. It shows on the screen the
16 dots fully light after hitting F6 fully, just it doesn't light up. I one time had to reset my Mac OS at the Apple Store, it fixed the problem, but when I restored with a time machine backup, it went back to this software problem. How can I fix this?! What is wrong with my OS? Mountain Lion? How can I fix this?!

If it does not detect the display automatically, try going to system preferences>displays, click detect displays.

My macbook pro 15 mid2010, crash every time in the last month. What can i do? Is a hardware or software problem?

The problem is that my mac is working very well, in soft programs, like browser or text editing, and then stop. Stop for one eternity, until i do a hard shut down.
After this situation apper´s many times, in a single day, i went to a apple service store and left my mac to repair. At first, the tecnhical manager told me that happens a lot, and the problem are in the logic board. Well, when i pick up the mac, he told me that was a software problem and was solved with the instalation of 10.8.5, but in that same day, he crash 3 or 4 times, in different way´s. Now, he crash´s and restart alone, and at the first try don´t restart appearing one message on the grey screen.
I don´t know what is this problem.
Someone have or had this problem too?
What is the solution?
Thanks a lot...

Maybe find a local who can translate for you. I don't know what to tell you for dealing in another country for service on your computer.
I can offer you something you can do if you want to give it a try. You'll need a backup of your data in your Home folder because you need to erase the drive. You'll also need a solid, preferably fast, internet connection.
Install or Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion from Scratch
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Erase the hard drive:
1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your startup volume (usually Macintosh HD) from the
      left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
3. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Optionally, click on
        the Security button and set the Zero Data option to one-pass. Click on
      the Erase button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Install button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.

My Ipod touch screen will not come up unless I conect it to the computer. It never gets past the apple logo and never fully retores? My screen is crackd a little at the bottom. Is this a screen or software problem?

My ipod touch 4will not respond unless I hook it up to the computer. It never goes pasthe logo apple screen.It never restores fully. Cant tell if this is a screen or software problem.

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
Apple will exchange your iPod for a refurbished one for $199 if a 64 GB one and $99 for the other 4G iPods. They do not fix yours.
Apple - iPod Repair price

MBP 2011 GPU failure or software problem?

Hello there,
since Januari 1, 2015 my Macbook Pro 15" (purchased in 2011) is having major problems! How things started:
I was just watching a movie on Netflix, pauzed it, went to the toilet and when I came back my MBP had a black screen. I could hear the fans working (when I pressed my head against the keyboard) but it did not respond to anything. All I could do was a hard reboot.
After reboot I got the Apple logo, but the screen looked not as smooth as before. When I looked closer I saw very thin, horizontal lines (color pink/brown?) across the entire screen. These lines were not perfect. They had a small break in the middle. After the Apple screen I got different results:
- White/Grey or maybe very pale blue-ish screen -> Does nothing behind this
-----> This is also the most frequent result of a boot
- Normal blue screen -> Checkered screen -> Back to the blue screen to end with a Kernel Panic screen
Since a few days I can "normally" boot again but it crashes after a while. I don't know what the trigger is. It may be coincidence but it always crashed when I tried to go on the internet or used an application wich used the airport (also used a cable). Maybe important to mention is that this "normal" boot happens after the "checkered" screen mentioned above.
-----> The "crash" in this normal boot happens like this:
- Total freeze of the MBP
- Crashes on a black screen (like I had before)
- Crashes on a dark blue/purple(?) screen -> This is also the most frequent crash after a "normal" boot and happens faster and faster.
Safe boot: Sometimes a normal screen but most of the time a screen with pink, very low resolution bands (vertical) across the screen.
When I tried searching for solutions on the internet I immediately came across this:
http://www.mbp2011.com/
The screens show exactly what I'm experiencing. The culprit in this case: GPU failure.
BUT, isn't it strange I don't have any glitching (apart from the boot in safe mode, the Apple Logo and the checkered screen) or distortion on my screen, that it sometimes has a clear screen, like nothing is wrong? Unlike many of the people with the GPU failure, I CAN boot the MBP with a normal screen, only it isn't very stable and it is only occasionally.
Things I've done so far:
1. Reinstall OS X (10.6.7) from the original installation disc.
2. I have tried NVRAM and PRAM (cmd+option+P+R), no change.
3. Verbose-mode (cmd+V). (the last thing I could see was something about the Airport) I did this 2 times. First time it crashed on a black screen after the Verbose-mode. Second time it got stuck on the grey screen.
4. Single-user Mode (cmd+S). Everything looked fine, no errors on hard disk.
5. Start in Safe Mode. (Shift). The bar doesn't load until the end but it boots in safe mode, but with the pink bars on the screen
6. Re-apply of thermal paste on GPU
The programmer at our work has over 30 years of experience with Apple and has never seen something like this. He also doesn't understand why it would be a hardware failure, because the glitches are "symmetrical", it can boot "normally" and he can't find anything wrong with it. He is now looking for something in the software wich may cause the MBP to crash. Could it just be a software problem? As I said before: It could be a coincidence but the crashes (after a "normal" boot) always appeared after trying to connect to the internet, using the internet or using an application that uses the internet (like the App Store -> I was trying to download Yosemite, it crashed around 70% of the download). And in Verbose mode the last line said something about the Airport and then it crashed.
My MBP is a Macbook Pro 15" (bought in July 2011), 2 GHz Intel Core i7, 4 GB 1333 MHz DD3
AMD Radeon HD 6490M, Part nr. MC721FN/A.
I am running Snow Leopard OS X 10.6.8
I spent the last two weeks on the internet to understand that if it is indeed the GPU that is failing, the replacement of the entire Logic Board is necessary, wich is VERY expensive... This cost would be more or less ok for me, but I read about failing after replacement, a LOT. Why would I pay so much money for a repair that only lasts just over 90 days? That is ridiculous!
Sorry for spelling/grammar mistakes, English isn't my first language and really thank you in advance. This MBP is impossible to replace (no money...) so I hope someone can help me.
Ask away if I did not provide any information that is necessary for troubleshooting.

Anyone?

Windows xp pro stalls - blank screen- hardware or software problem?

Hi Guys,
My system is about one month old and has been awesome in performance and graphics.
Suddenly it (windows xp pro) stalls after flashing the windows loading screen and it goes blank. Looks like a software problem?
I am posting on this forum because when I check cmos, no hard drives are registered.
I can't get into safe mode, can't get past the administrator/user screen because no mouse operates here and can't select icons with the keyboard.(No admin passwords were set up anyway)
Booting from CD, repair console doesn't work because it can't find any hard drive.
Reluctant to do a complete reinstall because of precious stuff on the hard drive.
Using f8, "last known good..." just gives the same blank screen.
Using floppy boot, no other drives are recognized.
If my root directory has been wiped out by a virus or something, how come it gets past post and starts to load windows? If it's merely the graphics driver or similar not loading, how come the cmos shows no hard drive?
Is this a hardware or software problem? Any help much appreciated.

THE ANSWER !!
Hi Guys,
I finally got to talk to the guy who set up this system and he said that it is normal for RAID drives not to show on BIOS/CMOS. 'Think of it like a vrtual drive' he said. When the black and white initialization screen shows something like: 'Nividia Stripe-healthy'...then THAT is the hard-drive.
He said that as long as Windows was getting to the loading screen, that means that the computer itself was functioning okay, so don't worry about BIOS, the problem is a file corruption in windows, or virus etc.
Also he said that when trying to use recovery console or reinstall windows, because the system can only read the RAID drives through a SCSI interface, you have to load the Nvidia SCSI drivers from floppy by pressing f6 when asked to at the bottom of the pale blue screen (from Windows cd boot), before trying to do anything with windows (or windows will just tell you it can't read the drives, as it did before with me.)
So in the end, I reinstalled windows by that method and everyting seems fine so far. YAY!
Thanks you people for being kind enough to help someone out. I really appreciate it.

Sound software problems

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